2004 STi Twin Scroll 6262 by Layvon

13 minute(s) of a 98 minute read

I'm looking through some Data logs right now and checking out what his was. Can "scale" off his injectors because I know he is running at 52 psi base. Seems to be working out okay so far. Numbers make sense because I have almost 1000cc more base flow than him, so it wasn't that hard to accomplish.

Here is what I have so far. This does assume that the VE of Antons motor and my motor are the same. Which obviously isn't the case, but it will get me started. 

I'm being honest, I have not much of a clue what I'm doing, so i'm more or less just messing around with it and familiarizing myself with the GUI. When I plug everything into the car it says "Warning E-throttle blah blah car wont start" I haven't investigated much into it

...

Kelly calls... 

We discussed all of the above and he showed me a few directions to take and the E throttle cable issue could have been because I didn't save the map after I stored it to the computer. that was the very first thing I did with the link so I can try it again. 

He said that his master fuel is at 11ms w/ 1100cc injectors, so my calculation of 5ms (4.5 actual) is likely to be relatively close to accurate. I will be watching as soon as I turn the car over for AFR changes because especially with the cold weather all the enrichment will be taking place. 

I have a new mission for tomorrow to try to bang all that out. Maybe i'll even start it up to see what she does. I wont be using the fuel map that I have posted above - I'll copy over the scaled stock one that I have

1/14/2013

Welp, it didn't go catastrophically wrong, but It would only idle for a few seconds then shut off. AFRs seemed to be in check, but tough to say if it was accurate under first initial start up. I thought it would have been as simple as adjusting the injector pulse and the master from stock. I think I'll see if junior can get me (another) break in map, or if I just have to winch it onto a trailer.

1/20/2013

Saw the new motor for the Fozzy in action today at the auto show.

2.0, 250hp, Low mount Turbo, direct injection, and dual AVCS (from the look of it), Pretty cool looking. It was a Honeywell Turbo with a .60 AR. I couldn't see if it was a twin scroll or a T3 flange.

I couldn't tell if it was the actual drive or just for the model motor but the timing chain was interesting, and also that they used rocker arms vs buckets.

1/25/2013

Somehow summit racing is going to get me my fuel line stuff to go from my ethanol sensor to surge tank. I needed a couple 90s and about 10" of -6 line. I ordered Thursday at 6pm. I will have it by saturday with the normal shipping. Gotta love it.

I'm also going to hook up the knock block this weekend. That shouldn't be too bad. I'm currently making myself a pin out diagram so I dont have to keep coming to check computer when I am working on it. Like I said, not that bad, just have to heat the garage up and do it. 

The thing I'm not that thrilled about is my ethanol sensor. I plan on pulling voltage and ground from the fuel pump, because that is relay controlled and works well. The thing I dont know what in the hell to do is wiring in the damn output. I haven't looked into it that much, but it is slightly embarrassing. 

I dont know which digital input is worth sacrificing for it. Was thinking the Air Conditioning request, but that is a useful button for a switch or something in the future... but I do have the cruise switch too I guess. Looking for some input for Anton / Kelly / Dominic on this one

1/26/2013

Well it spits out the signal.to go to ecu. I just put the neg on the battery terminal since it is wired directly through it. Fused of course.

In other news. I think I bought a big enough filter. Barely fit

Sorry for quality ... phone picture and upload.

aiming to get my knock block and IAT sensor wired in tonight yet, but tough to say if it will get done, I have to go over to parents to sing happy bday to my dad so depending how out of hand we get ... might not work on it tonight. MAF wires are the ones dangling there, I haven't snipped them off yet. Starting to come together!

1/27/2013

"If you can't find one... make one "

Made a simple voltage regulator today to get 5.0v for my ethanol sensor.

1/28/2013

Well my ethanol dilemma has been solved. Many thanks to Simon at Link ECU. 18 hour time difference helps also.

Here is where the mysterious DI#3 was: Simon said D16 or D17. Looking through the manual I found:

D16 is the winning ticket. I'll be looking for a blue wire with yellow stripe. Should stick out like a sore thumb.

He also mentioned that I could ditch DI#5, which is the brake switch. If I had to speculate that is what cancels the cruise, which I'm not using.

I did some soldering last night and got all organized and prepped for installing the knock block. I didn't want to rush since I had to get up at 4 this morning for work, so I can just do it tonight or tomorrow. I sound like a broken record but at this point 1 or two days isn't worth jeopardizing a year of work. 

I tore out my motor one year ago the sunday of sno*drift

Welp. All wired. My cutoff time for being in the garage is 9:30. This is fine with me tonight. I will check all wires tomorrow. All I have to do is plug in the 4 connectors into the Link, and hook up my +14V, Wide Band, and Ground to the Expansion plug and I'll be done. Those already have soldered ends on them so it is literally a plug and play operation. 

While I hope I NEVER have to do this, I made it so that It is reversible to stock by leaving enough tails there.

I also wired in oil pressure while I was in there. 

That is what I ended up with. Anything with a -- is a change. I am in the process of making 100% sure all the tables for the sensor and calibrations is right.

Finally - I had a 35 minute conversation with Miles at Fine Line tonight, VERY Helpful! We shot the **** about his Flex Rex as I just named it, that they finished a few years ago, some other misc stuff. The important stuff that pertains to this thread is the fueling!! He gave me some good pointers to try to get the car going. 

So I dont lose them I'm going to write them here.

6ms master

Trim 5%

10-11% at idle in the main fuel table

Store and save ( I always forget!! )

Make Idle in Open loop. That way it goes to the table and not off the sensor.

Watch Enrichment. 

Timing should be good since I'm running 8.2 compression pistons.

Store and Save.

I hope to have my car running by tomorrow. It is realistic. It will be 50 Degrees. I should take a vacation day tomorrow.

1/29/2013

It is alive!! 

It is still oscillating between Rich and Lean though, causing it to raise and drop in RPM. Maybe visa Versa though, maybe it is trying to drop in RPM but I have too much fuel or something.

I need to go through and smooth it out to see if that will help. 

Holding the car at a steady 2,000 rpm it will do about 13.5 - 13.8 AFR all day though.

I dropped fuel pressure to 40psi at the rail and 8ms master and 15% trim got it going. I need to bump it up to 9ms master and 2% trim to get it finer tuned. 

I was talking with Dylan there via email and he said the 2pm slot was open, and knows I'm getting a tune on the link. Yes, trailering down there.

It is a little rich I agree, the limited tuning ability I have is part of the problem. I was trying to get it to idle at 1500 rpm so it could just sit there and be happy. 

I ended up dropping trim to 10% so I'm at 8.8ms of injection for a master. Having said that, this is what I just adjusted fuel to. I haven't tried running this yet, because the only cells that would run well are the ones that I have in a 2x2 square. 

I just tailored out from 100 kPa and 0 RPM to 2500 rpm and 0 kPa. I have no clue what that will do, but if anything it is a bit rich, which I'm fine with at this point.

1/31/2013

After running pig rich from above, I came up with this. Seems to be a little smoothed out too. It was tough to tell looking at the old 3D map though because it was spread out. I'm out of ambition today to go to test it out to see how she idles.

obviously I dont plan on driving anywhere with this, but Just want to get it idling and able to pull onto a trailer.

2/3/2013

Fun install for the day:

Knock light.

Cell phone quality and had to time it.. please don't chastise 

2/4/2013

Bored. 

Tested to see if the knock block works or if I just had a Ricer LED in my dash. Thankfully it worked. I forgot my laptop at work otherwise I would have played with the gain on it to figure out what is best setting. Anton - if you're reading this, did the setting you used for gain work okay? Cause I haven't played with that at all, Just changed the frequency for the stock knock sensor

Fuel Fittings needed for Ethanol Sensor + Camera Fun

2/5/2013

Got a headphone extension cable threaded through the dash today, conveniently spits out of the ashtray and allows for easy reach with a set pf headphones while in drivers seat.

Doing something similar for the link USB cable but I want to make sure that it isn't going to cause too much stress on the cable / head of the cord where I put it because I don't want to have to replace it down the road.

Very very few things left to do before now and dyno day. Finish up boost lines, oil change and calibrate the Knock block and verify that all 4 cylinders read roughly the same. Test mode came back as a positive today so all wiring is done. ...

2/6/2013

99.99% done. I want to change out my Bosch sensor to see if that will fix the gauge being off since I have an extra anyways, It is really annoying having it be off like this, and at this point, I dont want to have to install an innovate, that would be really annoying too.

Other than that, got oil changed today, EBCS plumbed in, and my knockblock all situated, ended up dropping the gain on it a bit cause at 4 it was a little high doing the test that you're supposed to do ( 1-2 volts with frequency turned off and @ 3,500 RPMs )

If I am feeling ambitious, I might swap plugs, but after 1000 miles, I doubt there is anything wrong with the ones I have. Anyone have a comment about my carpet question?

What about how much gas to have in the tank when you go to get tuned. I was at 1/3 and dumped 5 gallons in, and apparently it was fuller than I thought, now it is almost full.

If needed, I can empty some out, that wouldn't be hard.