2004 STi Twin Scroll 6262 by Layvon

11 minute(s) of a 98 minute read

Scary **** last night - I was worried I blew something up. Accelerating from a light last night on a bumpy road, and all the sudden my car just lost power, went lean and could barely run under its own power.

I tried lookimg at the fuel lines, actually hardwired the 255 and checked all vacuum lines ... still no dice. My buddy rich asked if I could check for spark from the Link and I said Yepp..

As I was connecting, he noticed that the passenger front (cylinder 1?) Had the spark plug wire disconnected ... the damn coil pack broke. Thankfully Erocs04sti had a couple for me, and gonna ship them out first thing Monday. ... which led to spending some more money also - DSS front axle bars .

Car lost 6-8 pounds today between intercooler sprayer and the middle seat belt in the rear... don't need that juuunk!

6-30-2013

It was not a good feeling. Thankfully a buddy was up and we were installing downpipe and cat back otherwise I would have been worried sick... or maybe found the issue then.

Weight savings is just something I realized I needed to do after my car still weighed 3260 (with full interior and full tank of fuel) plus me. I want to get to 3350 or less with me in it. I have an amazing lead on some Seibon carbon fiber doors and that would save 80 pounds at the cost of some safety so I don't know if I will be doing that mod until I have a cage.

As for the Oswald - easiest 21 pounds to shave and you get rid of the rusty ass rear bumper beam. That install is literally a 2 hour job start to finish, no jacking required or any fancy tools. All aluminium and the stock Styrofoam still fits. Not to mention the parts fit together nicely and instructions were very well written and thorough

7-3-2013

Got my coil pack today. That fixed the issue I had last Friday.

Spent some time merging my two maps. I've got boost, WGDC and knock sensor merged all together.

From the suggestion of a guy on the Link forums I had the edge detection wrong ( rising vs falling) on my ethanol sensor so my fuel readings were all out of whack, but its good now. Fuel temps rose from 24-35 on a trip into town, nothing too crazy. I want to do some cold start trims on E85 cause it is cranking a little longer than I want it to.

7-9-2013

Still no videos! Haven't driven the car, but I did find a design flaw that others have also noticed.

The weapon-r coolant overflow / windshield washer fluid tank has a nipple at the top with no tube going down to the bottom. This makes it extremely difficult for the coolant to drain back into the radiator once it is cool down. I will be either Welding a new nipple on the bottom or putting a tube inside the nipple if it is a tight enough fit.

I just stopped and picked up some goodies from coolblue05, thanks again man! Here's one teaser photo while driving down the road

Favorite goodie

Bye bye radio

7-10-2013

It wasn't boost Logged, sorry.

There was a dip at 6200 but only 1-2 psi. I had to mess with some stuff (WGDC mostly) and it went fine. I haven't driven the car hard while logging in a while ... here is a picture of my latest 4th gear pull I have.

7-11-2013

I shared this with some already but I just am in love with it for some reason....

This is just a little inlay I put behind the radio bezel after taking the radio out tonight. 7" touch screen no more .

Real carbon fiber with some sort of sticker / vinyl on top . Thanks cool blue!

7-13-2013

Well no tech inspection but j have full interior and extra battery in the front with me. Cannot wait till I can buy a trailer to tow my car here.

Anyways I had one good pass so far, keep missing third. Only running the 1/8th till the end of night so I don't get booted

7-15-2013

I just did what JR Suggested for street tires. He knew I was on street tires and suggested 8PSI, I dont have enough experience to dispute what worked and what didn't

I had Tire pressures of 22F/19R running 255/40/18 KDW2s

Here is a log screen shot. Peak boost of about 27.5 and dipping to 23ish. I think this was the 11.57s pass posted above.

I was shifting at 7300 ish 

7-16-2013

As good as that sounds Darius... I might as well kinda key people in to what's been going on the last 72 hrs.

Driving home from the track Saturday, I pulled into a gas station half way home to fill up on E85. When I was getting off the freeway a rattle really started making a ruckus. Gas station was 1/4 mile off freeway so I coasted into the station and shut car off.Checked oil, looked fine.

So I had my buddy with me start the car up to see if I could see where the noise was and it was not pleasant, car was on for 3-4 seconds.

Car was too fricken hot to do much of anything on it, so I decided to push it to the main parking lot adjacent to the gas station and my boss who lives 3 miles away let me take his truck home. Left the car there Sunday

Yesterday I went and loaded the car... for power line construction we use chain hoists to bring up the wire tension so that's how the car got put on the trailer ( no winch)

Got car home, started reefing on exhaust and drained the oil. Didn't see anything jumping out at me, oil looked fine and no rattles when shaking things.

Pulled a single plug and it looked too clean. My gut feeling was this, as the wideband was acting goofy on the trip home. Idling fine and going under 15mph it was fine. Anything over that it said full lean. If I put it on neutral while cruising, it would stay lean. Buddy who was riding with me said his did the same thing on his Supercharged Tacoma right before the sensor died. A quick Google suggested the same thing... though mine when dying have said 14.8 all the time.

So... that leads me to where I'm going to be at tonight. Compression and leak down test.

7-18-2013

Well... results are in. Sort of.

Motor is cold and I was doing some video watching and it has to be warm. So while my battery is on the charger this is what I have.

1 - 120psi
2 - 90psi
3 - haven't checked
4 - 88psi

I have my heat gun on low blowing on the oil pan so it can warm up the motor... I can't think of anything else I can do to make the test more accurate.

Anyone have ideas????

Is what it is. Gotta pay to play.

Having said that



Hopefully just a broken cam that didn't do much damage.

If you bend / kill a valve what does that usually mean? All new heads?

7-19-2013

With block reinforcements hopefully low-mid 30s will be attainable.

No monkeyboy jerry atrics on the rebuild it is going to be well thought out rather than a rush.

8-10-2013

Wow, not going to believe this fellas...

Just pulled the motor, and got it on the stand, and was showing my buddy the noise it was making... Then we pulled the valve cover off, no initial damage seen.

I turned it over, and the cam would snap a few degrees when it would be about to the breaking over point on the exhaust lobe.

I didn't know what that was all about so I started to take the cam gears off. . . as most know this is a bitch, so the cheater bar was instantly grabbed for the 1/2 inch breaker bar. I put the bar on it, and the weight of the bar moved the bolt a fuzz...

Loose cam gear the whole time was the noise. I tightened the gear back down, and bam noise gone. This was previously torqued too. ... I guess impacting them on is the way to go lol.

Let the deliberation begin. I'm pulling the heads anyways to make sure, but I am 96% confident that I could put it back in right now and it would run fine.

Closed deck from P&L? Outfront? New studs? Oring?!
Pretty excited but at the same time disappointed that it was that simple.

8-13-2013

Motor is out. Parts are scattered and lab led and thankfully everything looks good.

Going to get winter build opinions at P&L Monday.

On the docket for discussion
Closing the Deck
Orings
Big-boy studs ( as a salesman and business owner I'm guessing the 13mm P&L's will be suggested, which I'm cool with)
My case or new
My crank or new
My rods or new ( Turbo tuff )

Hoping to use the case to save some pennies, but might will leave it up to him. My pistons are fine, however I was surprised by how easy it was to keep E85 in the car So I'm bumping compression to something at Paul's recommendation.

Financially it is a long way off.. but what do you guys think for 6266 decision.

Keep in mind this is twin scroll...

.84 A/R ( Which should be bigger than the 6262 .84 AR which I currently have.. I think )
1.0 A/R

8-28-2013

I appreciate the insight! I'm gonna reread that a couple times to fully digest it.

I do want to mention I had the turbo tuffs and they seemingly worked out great at 605hp. Paul at P&L said he'd prefer i start out with the rods he's comfortable using (Pauter) and go from there. I had a sit down face to face meeting with him and Jr a week ago.

I don't have the means to make measurements or engineered decisions due to the fact I work out of my truck all over Mich Indiana and Ohio, so I wanted to put my trust in a shop to do that for me. I have no doubt in the world it will hold up to the power its just how long. Maybe sleeves are the right way to go... I'm not saying they are or arent, I just don't know what's best for my application.
I have heard good things about the 625s too but again going with what a paul is comfortable with
I don't know if I've posted it or not yet but the specs if I asked Paul to build the motor today it'd be:

P&L closed deck (includes orings)
P&L built
13mm studs
10:1 CP
Pauter Rods
Stock crank
P&L special Blend Kelford AVCS delete
6266 turbo.

If down the road I chose to sleeve it'd be a Benson sleeve and probably MPS built.