C4 + LS1 + T-56 = Good times! by subtlez28

By stevegolf
( 2 )

6 minute(s) of a 26 minute read

10-24-2009

Who wants to see some scary stuff?

This had a complete drive line when I received it (though non-running). The ebay add said it just needs a battery and spark plugs to run... yeah right!

Anyway, I took the trans out a while back and left the drive-shaft hanging. Last night I went to take out the DS and saw this:

No strap on one side!! Had I got it running... I'm pretty sure the LS1 would have snapped this u-joint off and... big problems.

But that is not all. This I knew about, but last night I tore it out:

1st of all, why the external fuel pump when the car comes with an in tank FI pump? 

Yes, that is hose clamped, spliced in braided line!

Yes, that is inner-tube wrapped around and hose clamped to the pump. 

Not to mention this is mounted just behind the rear end. It was held in with 3 sheet metal screws that were literally finger tight! And the atrocity that was the multi-spliced wiring...

Best part is they cut the factory hard line, so now I'm not sure what I will do. I wish it was in tact as it is nice, safe, and reliable. I may just run a push-lock line all the way up, but the factory stuff would have been my preference. Any idea where I could get a replacement factory line?

I have a Racetronix kit to put in tank. I hope the factory pump and assembly is still in place in the tank. 


10/30/2009

I got to work on the C4 last night and again today. One great thing about C4s... they are easy to pull an engine out of! I was worried about going after it without an extra set of hands, but, no problem.

Getting the LS1 out of the way will allow me to clean up the engine bay some, and more importantly, go through some questionable mods.

The front brake lines are kind of a mess, since I received the car modded, I don't know how they looked stock, but I'm not happy w how they sit.

It also let me get a good look at the sections welded in to run the C5 mounts. They are partially bolted together (along with a weak, and now broken weld). I'm open for input here. Start over? Fix this?

Oh, and lets not forget the fuel lines I am so fond of...

More troubling news on that front... The hot wire for the fuel pump relay (for the external pump covered earlier) was run along the fuel lines! Zip tied nearly 100 times, but still managed to be chafed to bare wire! Am I being nit-picky again, or does running a power wire physically attached to the fuel lines strike others as a bad idea? You can see it in the pic, its the one without the weather pack connections, kinda just dangling there. It ran (past tense, gone now) all the way from the firewall to the tank. Though it changes color and wire type at a crimp slice 1/2 way.

Today was a mix of good progress and heartache. I rolled it outside and pressure washed the grime from the engine compartment.

I noticed some fuel was dripping from the return line (the pressure line is disconnected over the diff-where the external pump was). So when I rolled it back in the garage I put a pan under it as I assumed it was just the fuel in the line (it had been sitting nose up for so long). I even used a big antifreeze pan to be safe... WRONG! Apparently a lot of fuel can siphon from the return line. I smelled gas in the house... ah oh.. Go into the garage to find gas all over the floor.

I did a lot of cleaning up with the hose, but the smell lingers. Luckily most of the area effected was clear, but some boxes and wood blocks got tossed. I wonder how long the smell will last.

Back to good news, Classic Tube sells a complete fuel line. Though I imagine I will have to drop the tank and rear suspension to install it. They also offer brake lines. 

HELP WANTED:

Does anyone have pics of a stock 84 engine compartment without an engine? I'm wondering how the factory fuel and brake lines route, and terminate. I'm also curious how the old SBC mounts, and how my cross member has been modded. 


10/31/2009

Decisions, decisions... My 1st plan was to leave the engine together so I could focus time and energy on the other areas of the swap. Then go through the engine next winter.

But, with all the 1/2-@$$ stuff I'm finding, I wonder how much could be wrong with the engine. I noticed the rear of the engine is abnormally oil covered (was an auto car) and the rear cover is missing a bolt... Also, the driver's valve cover is missing a bolt...

I picked up:

LS6 heads

LS6 cam (and springs)

Ported Oil Pump and TB (by Drag Werks)

LS6 Intake

Katech rod bolts

and I'm considering an Improved Racing F-Body Trap-Door Race Baffle (oil pan baffle) 

So I'm strongly considering going through the engine now, rather than gamble. Not to mention more power is a beautiful thing!

Tomorrow I'll clean this thing off and ponder...

Input is welcome here.

Also, does anyone have an extra rear cover or 98 Valve cover bolt? 


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