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4 minute read
Front Trailing Arm Bushing Replacement
Compliments of JDwhiteWRX @ www.rexnet.com
Carrying on from my previous DIY for the rear trailing arm bushing this DIY is to replace the rubber OEM trailing arm front bushing with a Turn in Concepts (TiC) 2-piece graphite impregnated (self lubricating) urethane bushing.
Here are the TiC bushings, got these from Nick at Entra Imports for a very good price, actually about the same price as they cost from TiC direct but without having to ship from the USA. The finish on these bushings is top shelf, all edges are bevelled and it makes things so much easier, much better than Superpro.
Tools required
17mm 6-sided socket and breaker bar
17mm open ended spanner
12mm socket
Vice
Jack stands and floor jack
Drill
Factory sissor jack and wooden blocks
Hammer
Hacksaw
Car ramps
Get the car up on jack stands with both rear wheels removed and a couple of bricks at the front just incase 
Now you need to remove the trailing arm, save me writing it all again please see the steps in the rear bushing DIY here.
Now assuming you have the bolt out of the rear bushing and all the ABS line and handbrake lines undone its time to remove the bolts for the front bushing. I suggest you try crack these bolts with the trailing arm still fitted to the car, I made the mistake of removing both arms first but was unable to hold the passenger side still off the car so had to re-install it to crack the bolt 
I guess if you have a good work bench you could put it in the vice but I was working on the floor.
To remove the trailing arm from the car there is one 12mm bolt for the ABS and three 17mm bolts holding the arm to the floorpan.
I was able to crack the drivers side by stomping on it, happy days 
The passenger side bolt made me want to cry.
So once you have the bolts out you need to remove the factory bushings. I used a drill to drill out around the outside and then a hammer to knock out the bushing.
The factory bushing has a metal sleeve which also needs to be removed, I used a hacksaw to cut two slots and then a flat blade screwdriver and hammer to knock out the sleeve
Be carefull not to cut right through the sleeve into the trailing arm.
Once these are out its time to press in the new bushings, I'm using Castrol LMM as lube, bushings first then the metal crush tube.
ok now you can put the bolt back through but do not fully tighten until its back on the car and under load.
