My very own update thread by BaseDrifter

8 minute(s) of a 155 minute read

Had a couple close calls today while driving Redwood Road in Castro Valley. Namely a suicidal turkey and a blind-corner lane-crossing motorcyclist.

Also encountered a parade of roller bladers in SF the other night.

11-1-2013

Applied yellow lamin-x to the fogs today. So far I like how it looks.

Ordered the rest of the parts I need to do the A8 brake swap.

FCP:

Brake fluid reservoir - $85
2L Pentosin Super DOT4 brake fluid - $24
2x FTE caliper seal kits - $25
2x Meyle guide bushing kits - $27
$10 shipping

Total: $175

ECS:

Stainless steel front brake lines - $50
4x Bremmenparts caliper guide pins - $28
$10 shipping

Total: $175 + $88 = $263

11-11-2013

My pile-o-parts ready to be installed, almost. I was shipped a Meyle brake fluid reservoir when I ordered an OEM one, the new tank won't be here for a couple days. Then I'll get to installing. Not happy about the delay.

11-12-2013

Thanks, finally getting there.

In other news, I really need a new clutch. This thing is hanging on by a thread right now. Still holds in 5th gear, for now. Ideally I would like to go with a billet steel flywheel, a 240mm FX300 clutch, and a metal slave cylinder. With that setup costing over $1,200, it ain't happening this time around.

Instead I think I'll go with a 228mm SouthBend stage 2 clutch and have SB resurface my dual mass flywheel. Shouldn't cost more than $500 and would hopefully be sufficient for frankenturbo power levels. If I decide later to step up to an eliminator I'll deal with the clutch then. I'd like to "do it right" the first time, but money doesn't always permit.

11-14-2013

Installed Optilux yellow H7 bulbs in the fog lights yesterday. They're definitely yellow. Dunno if I'll keep them yet.

I also hard wired my dash camera in. I ran the power cable across the front of the headliner and down into the side of the dash where my GPS cable goes. I'm using a cigarette lighter plug installed behind the dash with a USB port adapter to provide power. Much better than having the cable dangle down across the windshield. Gotta keep it clean! Always!

The new master cylinder should be here tomorrow so I will be able to start work on monday. Tomorrow one of my friends from Prague is coming to visit so the brakes will have to wait until he goes down to LA. Was hoping to have the brakes finished before he arrives due to the amount of driving I'll be doing Saturday and Sunday. Oh well.

11-19-2013

Progress.

Everything is installed, appears to be leak free, and is ready to bleed tomorrow. Took a lot longer than expected, one of these days I'll figure out that everything takes longer than expected.

Replacing the brake lines was one of the easiest parts. I ended up ordering an SK 9/11mm flare nut wrench, glad I did.

I plugged the brake lines with M10x1 bolts which helped slow the fluid leak down, but it was still dripping a decent amount. Probably lost a half liter from that.

I was inches away from blinding myself with brake fluid when I removed the first piston. Quite a stupid mistake, I was lucky. Always wear the proper protection! I promptly located my glasses..

It also appears that the passenger rotor and caliper have been making contact. Not sure what to think of that. 

Stripped caliper.

Looks nasty.

Carriers with new guide pins installed.

I took a little break to install a new grommet for the trunk wiring harness. Been meaning to do this for months.

Here are the remnants of the old braking system. Doesn't look too good does it? The big chunk missing from the reservoir I dislodged while removing it, wasn't driving it cracked that horribly. 

I pulled the caliper and replaced the white lithium grease I used on the guide pins with the proper disk brake grease. I also gave the springs a coat of flat black paint.

The finished product!

The A8 rotors really fill out the 16" wheel.

Before:

After:

I did RR, LR, RF, LF.

However I may not have bled them correctly. The clear tubing I got was too small so I used some blue vacuum tubing. Because it isn't clear I didn't submerge the end of it in fluid while bleeding, nor did I close the bleeder valve between each pump of the pedal. I'm guessing I sucked some air back up that way, though the bleeder appeared to be dripping fluid while I tightened it..if fluid was still coming out, can't see how air would be going in.

Oh, and, when doing the RF bleeder I let the level get a little too low and sucked a little bit of air in. I refilled the reservoir and kept bleeding, saw the air come out of the line and carried on. Is it possible air got into the rear lines? ABS?

Oh! Speaking of ABS…I did a VCDS scan and my ABS module is not responding...

Turns out ABS pumps need power to work.

I tested a circuit using an add a fuse last week and never put the original fuse back! No codes stored in the ABS. Pedal feels decent with the car off, turn the car on and the pedal is very soft with 3" of travel.