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4 minute(s) of a 29 minute read
11-2-2016
I have an aftermarket gas cap that seats very tightly, so I'm in the "not good" camp right now, lol.
I'm going to hook up a vent in the filler neck for now then plumb something proper in the Spring, though a full tank of fuel will likely block the entrance to filler neck and negate the vent. I'll need to keep it below that level for now. I just need it to run with enough fuel to get the timing set and take her for a romp in the neighborhood.
I'm also going to fab my own clutch linkage based on stuff I've seen done for hot rods of that era. The current pieces I have (some old, some new, some from different models) will simply not work correctly. But I have a plan!!!
11-7-2016
It pulls pretty strong! Didn't push it too hard, but the torque/power delivery on this engine and M40 transmission are miles ahead of the B16B with the M4!!
Idle is still "hunting" a bit. Mechanical advance feels like it works very well, but there is quite a bit of slop in the shaft. But, it's definitely driveable, and I'll decide what to do in the Spring (new dizzy, send this for rebuild, 123 unit?) Timing ranges from 10-16 BTDC at idle and 32-36-ish at 3K RPM
I'll get a video uploaded of her running soon. The Magnaflow glass pack and side exit exhaust (ahead of rear wheels) make for very loud ride.
Thanks to all who helped, particularly jedd! He was an invaluable resource in getting parts of this sorted out. Having just done this swap himself, he had a ton of info for me when I ran into issues!
11-8-2016
I love this discussion, Tom. Keep it coming! This is QUITE the Franken-engine. It's the way I do things, lol.
That manifold is the one without the internal plenum (I avoided that hot mess), and it actually does have the central port for intake PCV. Should I put a fitting in there (plugged now) and run the hose there? I can plug the air filter opening on the front carb no problem. It was my understanding that the venting of the valve cover to the carb or the intake manifold would function properly with that "EPA-approved" road draft tube.
Carb were professionally rebuilt (Island Automotion up in Canada), new shaft, bushings, jets, and springs. Throttle plates were updated to be solid, and they were synched to each other before being sent back. I do have to confirm they are synched with the running enginenow, but otherwise they are practically brand new.
I do think the manifold gasket is suspect. I should have gone with a Remflex gasket from the start, but was hoping the high quality copper gasket would work well. The cast iron exhaust manifold likely has some surface defects that need a thicker gasket to fill. Not sure if you guys know about these, but I have had fantastic luck with them on my cars in the past. Should have just went with my gut from the start, but I already had the copper gasket in hand when I saw they made one for the B18/20.
http://catalog.remflex.com/VOLVO_Exh...t_p/21-001.htm
11-9-2016
I will do what you suggested for now. Last thing I want to do is gum up my sparkly-clean rebuilt carbs. I have my ancient synchronizing tool out and ready to play around with it this weekend.
But trust me when I tell you the dizzy shaft is NOT tight at all. The timing creeps through the full range not just hunting for idle.
I have ATF in the pots right now (it's what I had on hand and used in my HS4s on the B16B). No stumbles or hesitations on acceleration noted in my test drives. But I have only run this car in cooler weather (the last week or so), and this may not be suitable oil for summer/hot weather use if it thins out at higher temps. Probably go with a straight SAE20 at that time. But trust me when I say, the carbs are working very well out of the box as they currently sit. Only minor adjustments should be needed. I appreciate the offer to help with the carbs, and I may just take you up on that in the Spring. I don't use this car much in the winter, so I'm going to get some miles on it for now, then put her away for the season (except for the occasional mild days we may have).