cls6 track car by curtwill

By diyauto
( 3 )

4 minute(s) of a 48 minute read

1-20-2016


trunk hinges, catch on end panel and all hardware removed and accounted for...another 7.5lb...so in total 15.5 lb out...will be adding approx 2lb back in for pins to keep lid skin in place


1-21-2016

doors are gutted out pretty well now...probably only weigh 20lb each now (haven't pulled them off to check)...still have some tack welded braces and brackets to drill out, chop out part of the rear parcel tray and I am going to split the wiring harness open and remove a bunch of unneeded stuff.

stock exhaust seems pretty heavy so it will be going...j-pipe back will be a couple 20"-24" resonators and a single pipe exiting out the rear (need to point to the left for Laguna Seca sound gun avoidance)

battery to be relocated to the rear for a bit of balancing (mostly to get some weight off the front....

need to solidify the motor mounts...probably just plate around them and make it solid...this is not about road noise or limo-type comfort.

hadn't put much thought into aero...cover the grille opening between the lights and duct the lower grille for cooling...probably going to put some lawn edging around the bottom of the front bumper cover...wasn't planning on a wing. Our current civic is like a rolling brick as far as aero so I think the general shape of the car is already and improvement...just need to get it low and the new springs should help.


my gutting will probably be more extreme than what anyone would do for a street set-up...exhaust is not limited to stock position but our civic was kicked out the side at one time and was a magnet for curbing (we cut the curbing alot) and always bottomed on our trailer and I would like it to exit beyond the fuel tank...if I follow the stock path and run a single pipe I should be able to keep it tight to the body and just put a little turn down past the gas tank...cat will be eliminated.

the hub idea sounds awesome but would be way over the top for our budget...the fact I am going to weld up my own mounts instead of buying a set of innovative mounts goes to show how much of a budget build this will be...we don't skimp on maintenance, brakes or tires (or safety of course)...but the rest of the build will be on the tight side...nothing finer than to show up at a race and beat someone whose build cost was 3x yours.


1-22-2016

I will have a shop build me an exhaust...not fancy just as few bends as possible with a couple big resonators...I don't like the design of the j-pipe but there aren't a lot (if any) options...I have a post on the black market forum looking for a header/j-pipe set-up..not expecting any luck on that.

car will have full 6 point cage welded in...will tag it into the pillars as well for stiffness....I also like a rear end to rotate although most of my fellow racers like it to stay behind the car, I like to be able to kick it out when I need to make a quick change of direction...normally I run a little toe-out in the rear to help this out.

not sure the spring rate on h&r race springs...they are the part# for accord v-6 sedan so hopefully they are expecting a heavy car...I do need a little spring compliance to keep the tires from pushing (a little body roll works better for me)...limited to 180tw tires...probably use re-71r potenzas, our civic performed excellent with them.

probably run the stock brake set-up...I will definitely be using raybestos st-43 compound pads...amazing track pad...might try to find something else that will give me a little more rotor surface area at some point but for now I think this combo should work...as long as I can get enough weight out...still not sure what it will feel like running abs



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