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4 minute(s) of a 64 minute read
4-15-2013
Love to.
I did some quick sypherin' ( Jethro Bodine style) and some remembering back to the 80's and as I said, I reckon it'll be pretty sweet with 0 to -0.15 deg. Camber and about 8 to 10mm backwards from the front castor mount. (old 505). And, with a larger diameter the scrub radius starts to head back in.
I recall Andy used the std front bushes which really flattened out quickly. They stayed pretty flat about 8mm thick on the front side of the bush.
Quite absorbing this chat, Rabin! Good fun. It'll be interesting for everyone to establish just what is going to work! Especially with the late gear you have.
I looked over a 208 today, which has 17" Pug optional rims. They were 225 or something. I must admit I'm looking at this sort of sizing myself. Pick up some 2nd hand late rims. We have trouble here getting 16" Michelin tyres. Every thing wide seems to be 17". I can get 15" street legal Yoko. motorsport rubber though.
I think it was Ellie May did it for me. Her and Catwoman. Hot dawg! I still think of Jethro eatin' Grannies vittles licking the pencil to do some sums and a sypherin' Uncle Jed. Funny boy. That lunatic who plays Oswald on Drew Carey channels Jethro, I reckon. Not enough clever people in humor, these days.
By the way, what bore, boost and compression are you anticipating using in the engine? I've developed a tidy set of Algebra that has been undergoing testing in my 2.2 as a method of writing a safe drivable curve that gets close first go. It's for 13 to 1 loaded and 14 to 1 cruise mixture and has proven itself once I got the ratios right. It would be interesting to see how my thinkin' and tinkerin' shows against your VEMS.
I've been working on it in my spare time, for the past 2 long years. Worked out of the box on a 347 SBF and a 351 Cleveland I built for street use.
In NA Carb engines it is actually very accurate against the higher output factory engine's curves. I did the 2l. Ti engine in my fathers 404 ute and even he had to admit it was smoother and added torque. Added another 10% economy saving without touching the mixture. Might be worth a go to reduce the tune time?
4-16-2013
I'm running 9.2 at 18, no worries with proper accurate ignition. I see how you thinking 300 atw with the engine. 94mm bore, yes Sir! Funny with the 94 VW stuff. We are running a set in a 4.6 Rover. Plenty of meat to work with and trim. Very heavy gudgeons so that needs addressing. Easy.
I have a program here at home, of one of my suppliers, Precision International that might be of use. Piston pin heights, crown dimensions etc. I can tell you though that, an extra point in compression makes a big difference in off idle torque, ( actually 1 point in CR is considered close to 10% increase) but one must be carefull as the starter motor's are not really up for it. I made a reduction gear one up , that stopped it farting in Church! More capacity and a DCR between 7.0 and 8.5 to 1 at crank speed, is in the back of my thoughts. That would be about 8.5 to 10 static, depending on cam from, my rough calcs.
Bare with me everyone!
I noticed something today on that great build Tama has done. A fine and fast machine.
There is an image of broken rings and damaged piston between top and second rings.
( Apart from dusty air wearing ring lands and causing ring flutter which breaks ring lands), there are two usual causes for that damage between the two top rings. Predominately it gets down to ring material ( not bedding in, giving blowby and crappy oil control) and wide ring gaps.
Plenty more in that but, the oil explodes during the fuel burn process and the poor pistons rings and lands get smashed with an uncontrolled blast many times over . Have a look at the piston. Why did the piston break, between the two top compression rings?