Jibberjive's RS6 Build Log
Compliments of jibberjive @ audiworld.com
Here's the setup I'm working on and it should be done within the next little bit. I'll update this first post with new pics as it progresses. This is by no means a complete list and I'll get more thorough later.
- Custom Exhaust Manifolds - Agtronic Motorsport
- 3" V-band Downpipes, Inlets and Turbos modified by Agtronic Motorsport
- Garrett GT2860-707160-7's and oil/coolant lines - SMS Performance
- TiAL MV-S 38mm V-band wastegates - SMS Performance
- eurojet "Kugel" grenade diverter valve - eurojet racing
- Supertech Intake and Dual Exhaust Valve Springs/Titanium Retainers/Inconel Exhaust Valves, 1mm Oversize High Temp Stainless Intake Valves, Phoenlic spacers - Issam@034
- Bosch 044 drop-in - Issam@034
- Integrated Engineering Rods - Pete@Integrated
- Custom E85 tune - Greg@SSP
- 82lb Siemens Injectors, Bosch F5DPOR plugs, 85mm MAF - Greg@SSP
- Clutch Masters Stage 4 FX400 6-puck w/ WMS Steel Flywheel - Wicked Motorsports (WMS)
- ARD Bipipes - ARDesign
- ER SMIC's
- SDR X-1 Intake and RS4 accordian
- Ebay silicone tubes
- 2.8 heads w/ 2.8 cams
- RS4 headgaskets
- Big EFK - VAST
- 034 Track Density Engine/Tranny Mounts, Phoenlic Spacers, Apikol Rear Diff Mount - Issam@034
- Zeitronix Wideband
- JHM Hallman in-cabin MBC, SS, Shifter Linkage, Delrin Bushing - JHM
- 150 amp 14.8 volt upgraded Alternator "Ultranator" - Avimeron@gmail.com
- RS4 shift ****
- B6 Ultrasport steering wheel and TT airbag
- Carbon fiber interior trim - Carbonetiks
- AWE new vent boost gauge
- Pioneer AVIC-f90bt
- Critical Mass UL12's
- Powerbass XA-3000d
- Sport Mirrors (or maybe something crazy)
- RS4 grill
- 20% Suntek Carbon Series Tint
- Depo E-codes
- 55W DDM HID Kit
- Carbon fiber engine covers (and maybe a couple other parts)
This list is only new stuff that I'm adding. Pics:
Turbos Garrett 2860-7's (unmodified)
TiAL MV-S Wastegates
034 Track Density motor/tranny mounts, Apikol rear diff mount, poly mount for DTS
Integrated Engineering Rods w/ ARP bolts
eurojet "Kugel" diverter valves
Ebay silicone pipes
SDR X-1 Intake
VAST EFK and tidbits
JHM Hallman In-cabin adjustable MBC
DDM 55w H7 HID kit
RS4 Shift ****
B6 S-line steering wheel w/ TT airbag
What my front room looked like
Stage 2+ preliminary baseline dyno (enriching and pulling timing with bad EGT)
One of many new tools
My shop that I've been cleaning out, prepping, painting and outfitting for the past little bit
New 4 post lift!
Pops helping assemble lift
Well I finally got the lift fully assembled last weekend
And took a final shot of the car before I started taking some parts out
Well I started on my engine pull last night cause my motor sold and I bought my new one, so some progress finally! I started around 530pm, pops left around 930-1000pm (we had the driveline/stuff underneath done and the airbox/y-pipe stuff done.) Then I took my time and got stuck at the end trying to figure out how to get the freaking AC compressor out[headbang][evilmad] I was there til after 4am tinkering with it, though I should've left earlier because I wasn't very productive by that time. Anywho, onto the pictures.
Onto the motor pull.
Before she was touched (except for the headlights that I sold a while back.)
Where we but the zip-lock bagged bolts
We had to lift the car with some 2x4's on the DTS because of the way the jack was.
Pulling the half-shafts, cat-back exhaust and driveline
Passenger's shaft out
Driver's shaft out
Apparently I had a horribly torn boot since the last time I checked a month or two ago
Catback off (I have a new found love for v-band clamps!) Taking off Driveline heatshield
Disconnecting the driveline
Pile o' parts so far
From here on I was on my own.
Front bumper and fogs off. My RS4 bumper was held on differently than the stock ones from the writeup (other than the two main bumper support bolts of course.)
IC shrouds and pusher fan off. Draining the coolant (I caught most of the initial drain from the radiator, but when moving the whole radiator/front clip and when unplugging other hoses around the motor I got coolant everywere, over and again!)
AC condenser swung to the side and front clip removed
How she currently sits from when I left her. IC's gone, serpentine belt off and trying to get that freaking AC compressor off.
So, onto the pull. The AC compressor was just held in by the back bolt, which is way easy to get to from underneath by the motor mount. I was confused by looking at the pics in M3 to S4's writeup cause there he makes it seem like the 3rd bolt is right below the driver's side head. So the bolt I took out there was actually one of the bolts that holds on the inlet support ha[headbang] Plus it was 4am, so my faculties weren't as sharp as they would've otherwise been[>_<]
Disconnecting the ECU etc.
All sensors/hoses/lines disconnected, AC compressor/condenser swung to the side and getting ready to pull
Hooking up the chains and load leveler
Part of the way out to disconnect the slave cylinder, fish out the heater core hoses, and take off the tranny mounts. The coolant never stops coming![evilmad] I'm under there in a pool of coolant trying to do this stuff and make sure it gets out cleanly, and the never ending drip of coolant is getting all over everywhere that I just cleaned 10 times ha. If there's a way to completely purge the coolant system before the whole procedure, I'd do that in a heartbeat. This part actually took alot longer than I had expected. We tried it with the tranny mounts on at first, but that wasn't working and it took me a good minute to figure out how to take the tranny mounts off (didn't know it was just one bolt on top below the heatshield lol). Sitting under there holding the tranny to help it all out cleanly I put the back of my head on the open end of the driveshaft that is filled with grease a bunch of times.
"I once caught a fish THIS big."
The parts (minus the front bumper)
The towel after I wiped the back of my hair only twice
So all last Sat. night I was breaking down my engine. I cannot believe how complicated all of the peripheral electronics/coolant/oil lines are! I went slow and took my time and it took forever. I tried to label where each connection came from with painter's tape and took tons of pics of all the lines (don't worry I won't them here). I've sold the motor that came out of my car, so I'm just breaking it down to get ready to ship.
Taking off the tranny
This is the bolt I took off thinking it was the AC compressor rear bolt
Since I sold the turbos with the motor I was trying to leave them and the inlets mounted, which proved to be a pain when trying to unbolt the motor mounts and get the starter out. I ended up having to pull the inlets.
Motor mount was broken
All of these tight bolts in small places and hoses that are a pain to slip off, I beat the crap out of my hands MANY times. This fan part was like razorblades when working anywhere near it.
KO3 turbos with 56k mi were actually in really good shape
I broke the connector part of this sensor that goes in by the oil filter sandwich[>_>]
An example of how I tried to label all of the parts
I twisted this ground wire up pretty good cause I didn't expect it to turn with the bolt when I used the ratchet gun to take it off.
I took the intake mani off with everything still connected (injectors, fuel rail, wiring harness, coil packs, TB, etc) to try to keep it as simple as possible.
These hoses were a pain to pull off without tearing them. After trying to wiggle them out I found out that the hardlines they're connected to have to stay with the motorsince I'm leaving all of the timing components together.
When I was working on one of the random hoses it kept leaking after I thought I emptied it and I had a huge puddle in my lap. Looks like I pissed my pants.
These oil and coolant line bolts really are as much of a pain as everyone says! I somehow got them all off with just normal sets of wrenches (and lots of frustration!) It was too late to go buy any tools.
Finally just about how I'm going to send her off.
Ready to pack up and ship out.
Here's the new motor that I'm going to build (in the rear of this pic)
One difference between the motors that I noticed that I'd never heard before was on the 01.5'+ motor this timing belt rear cover is plastic when on the 00' it's metal.
I got an EGT from a guy on here to replace my faulty driver's side one and it is the same length and the same color, but the part number has a different letter at the end (part # for my old one is 078 919 529 E and the new one is the same but an L at the end.) The tips also look a little different as well. I googled the part # and couldn't come up with anything. Has anyone heard of this other L sensor or know what car it's supposed to go to? Or does anyone know if it will work the same as the other?
So I've got completed heads. They were hottanked, decked, 3-angle valve job, valve seats modified for 1mm oversize intake valves, and new guides were installed.
A closeup of the combi valve threaded shut
A little more sprucing up of the shop with a new poster
So...onto to the work. Here's how the interior of my car currently sits (I pulled the trim to replace with CF and I'm going to be installing the AVIC f90-bt.)
I had to move the S4 off the lift so I could work on some other cars, but the driveline was dangling to the ground because it's disconnected. We had to thread 2 huge zipties that we put end to end up through the shifter boot/box and put around the shifter with the lower end around the driveline to hold it up so we could push the car around.
Getting the motor bolted onto the stand was the most time consuming/difficult part of the motor breakdown (the motor breakdown itself is really not difficult at all.)
On stand, ready to get to business. Notice how the cam gears aren't lined up with each other.
Timing belt and stuff off
Turns out one bank has bent valves from a slipped timing belt. Can you guess which bank?
Waterpump and all peripheral accessories gone
Lower oil pan off
Oil pump assembly and upper oil pan
Upper oil pan off
Oil pump out and how she currently sits while I find 3 OEM pistons.
So I got these in the other day and I must say I'm impressed with the quality of the machining, packaging, and overall presentation. These look incredible in person, and I can't wait to get them on the car. Looking into one of the holes I see that they came pre-lubed, so it seems eurojet cares about the functionality as well, not just the good looks BTW these are the eurojet "Kugel" DV's
Can we really not edit previous posts now? If so, I made all of those "saved" posts pointlessly
Not a whole lot of progress, but I got a couple things to spruce up the shop a little
Got a clock for the shop
Other than that, I pulled all the trim in the car, which is going to replaced with carbon fiber. I guess I should say I almost pulled all of the trim cause I quit before I got the long piece on the dashboard all the way off.
I've got completed heads with 1mm oversize valves, the springs/retainers etc, but I haven't had time to pick them up or take any pictures yet. I'll be taking my bottom end to get balanced hopefully over the next week, then will come reassembly. I've got to find a Bosch alternator core so I can get that rebuilt in the meantime as well. Also, there's been a huge change in plans, and the thread will be updated about that when it's 100%
Look at my 2 edited posts above, I added a ton of pics of the motor breakdown.
There's big changes with my build. I decided to go the GT route and am having Markku at Agtronic Motorsports in Canada build me one of his GT kits (same fabricator as Guruman.) 3" V-banded DP's, exhaust manis, and TiAL MV-S 38mm V-band wastegates. I should have more pics of the progress in a day or two and they should be done in the next week or so.
I got the turbos, wastegates and oil/coolant lines from Shelby at SMS Performance. Good guy who went out of his way to help me out in a bind. He'll get you as good of prices as anyone and if you're local I wouldn't hesitate to take your car there for service either. For others who are homebrewing a GT kit, I'm sure he still has the list of all of the stuff I got for the lines and could get you setup with all of that business as well (it's the same line kit that ATP uses for the stock placement GT eliminators.)
I've got completed 2.8 heads with
-034 1mm oversize stainless intake valves
-034 Inconel exhaust valves
-034 Springs and titanium retainers
So now I've got a second set of stock 2.8 ATQ heads in great shape with about 55k mi that I'm selling in the classifieds. Click the link in my sig, and here's a couple pics
I've also got a great condition RS4 airbox for sale as well
Anywho, here's some pics of the new turbos (unmodified) and wastegates. Can you guess what turbos these are?
And the lines
I'm looking for 3 good OEM 2.7 pistons if you know of anyone who has some lying around. I also am in need of a Bosch alternator, dead or alive. I'd also consider a 3.0l crank if I could find one super cheap. My clutch is on it's way and as soon as I get the piston situation sorted out it's off to the machine shop for hottank, balance, hone (or bore if I go bigger than 2.7), and decking of the block. By then I should have the modified turbos, manis, dp's, wideband, fueling etc and all I'll have to do is assembly! After that I've got exhaust and the tune, then it'll be driving like a madman daily on E85! From there I'll complete the stereo and the final touches.
Sorry for the late updates, I ran into some financial hurdles (and this may not go super fast because I still have them) and I've been lacking some time because I'm starting a new job.
Got a little something-something in the mail
It's Clutchmasters FX450 (same as the FX400 but the material is sintered iron) and the steel lightweight flywheel from Mike, Simpply, at WMS. He shipped it out quick and they had the best price on Clutchmaster's that I found.
Quick update cause I don't really have time to be thorough. I got my exhuast, dual 3"to single 4". Manifolds, DP's and inlets are almost done.
I didn't give up on the build, I'm completing it no matter what. What the situation is, is that a business opportunity has been presented so I'm weighing my priorities right now. I'm listing the car for sale as a pristine, complete turn-key Casablanca White 6-speed GT car with 0 miles on everything and all possible preventative maintenance done. This can go one of two ways:
A. It sells and I complete it immediately thereafter. If I lock the deal up with someone before I buy the fueling the buyer can even select the fueling/tuning of their choice.
B. It doesn't sell before I finish it or I don't get an offer near what it's worth. Then I complete it on my own time frame and continue as I had planned and enjoy the ultimate daily driver that I've so laboriously created.
I had a couple hardware timeframe issues until a couple of weeks ago, but now there are no hardware delays. I was going to try to have it completed by Aug. 29th, but now that that date has passed the build has again taken a bump in priority. I still want to, and plan on, completing it asap however.
I've been delaying posting a classified ad because I've been talking with a few individuals who might be interested. Look for a classified ad soon with the price and details, and if you or anyone you know is interested please send me an email instead of PM because my PM box is full and I don't have time to go through and see which ones I can erase.
jibberjive at AOL.com but please, only very serious buyers who don't need any financing inquire because this isn't the type of car that one can get financing for and I don't really have time right now to deal with anyone but very serious buyers.
The car is no longer for sale. Here's a comprehensive writeup of the car's story, details, and mods.
I like to be thorough, so if you're just looking for the specs and don't care about the history, just skip the next couple of paragraphs.
-The story behind the car-
I was stuck on buying a Casablanca White S4 with certain stipulations and literally looked for over a year for this car in this condition with these options (casa, 6-speed, non-black interior, low mileage, no accidents, heated seats.) My search came to an end only by propositioning a guy in NY when it wasn't even for sale. I flew out, bought it with 49k on it and shipped it back to UT. I've only put about 7k mi on it in the 18+ months I've owned it, so it currently sits about 56k IIRC (I haven't driven it over 8 months and wasn't my daily driver to begin with.) This build has been 3+ years in the making and it is like selling my baby, but the only way I can justify it is because of a potential business deal. I'm obviously an enthusiast and I used to work for Audi. The previous owner was also an enthusiast and this was his second casa white S4. The owner before that was an Audi tech. The car was one of 12 chosen for the 2009 Audizine calendar (it was Mr. June) and may have other exposure opportunities pending its completion-The story behind the build-
As most of you are aware, I started out this build with the intent to build the ultimate daily driver/ weekend road course racer (and occasional drag strip go-er.) Originally I had a set of RS6 turbos that I was going to use on the completely built motor with built 2.8 heads. I was then in a dilemma because I figured that since I'm completely building the motor anyways I should get some bigger turbos that would utilize that higher potential of the motor better than the RS6's. I was conflicted because on the other hand I had strict design goals that I wasn't willing to compromise on (good powerband for the street and smooth-ish delivery for the road course, minimal turbo lag, and reliability.) I then formulated what I think is the perfect compromise for this car/engine and decided to go with a turbo that, to my knowledge, noone in the world has put on an S4. I chose the Garrett GT2860R-707160-7 (you can compare it to the GT28RS HERE.) The GT2860-7 turbo has the same compressor and turbine wheel diameter as the GT28RS (big 60mm compressor and 53.8mm turbine wheels), but the trim of both of the wheels are smaller on the GT2860-7 (compressor wheel and turbine wheel trims for the GT2860-7 are 55 and 62 respectively compared to 62 and 76 for the GT28RS.) Also, the compressor housing A/R on the GT2860-7 is quite a bit smaller than the GT28RS at .42 compared to .60. These differences in trim and housing size should make the GT2860-7 spool way before what people are currently seeing with GT28RS setups, yet they should retain some of that top end because these are still rather large turbos indeed. The GT2860-7 shares the same technology as the GT28RS that makes their turbine efficiency ~10% higher (75% vs. 65%) than the GT2560R's and GT2554R's that people run on the S4. Compared to the RS6's, the GT2860-7's should see somewhat similar spool with their more efficient ball bearing technology and top-of-the-line custom exhaust manifolds and external wastegates, but they should have way more potential and top end power by virtue of their wheels that are quite a bit bigger (the RS6 has a 56mm compressor wheel compared to 60mm for the GT2860-7 (they're both about the same trim)) as well as their bigger hotside housings.
Enough about the turbos though, all that technical jargon is saying is that these turbos should spool very well and be manageable on the street, but have awesome peak power potential as well. Once I decided on these turbos I sold my RS6 setup and had Agrtonic Motorsport build me a custom setup for these turbos. If one were to not care about lag so much and wanted to go for max power, then they could easily swap in the GT2860-5's, which is the exact same turbo as the GT28RS, it just has the same funky housing bolt pattern that my GT2860-7's have.
For the clutch, since this is going to be a daily driver I didn't want to deal with a clutch that is like a light switch as well as noisy and uncomfortable to drive. That's why I opted to not go with a twin-disc but instead went with the next strongest thing that still maintains the driveability. I went with a Clutchmaster's FX450 6 pucked disc with sintered iron material and their steel single mass flywheel to try to avoid any flywheel chatter. Mike at WMS has run this same setup successfully in some GT S4's already, and again I feel like I found the perfect compromise of grabbing ability and daily drivability.
I went with completely built 2.8 heads for the increased flow of these big turbos, but chose to retain the stock forged Mahle pistons, and decided to do so for a couple of reasons. My goal in building this car is to build the ultimate daily driver/weekend road racer. With that I want to retain as good of gas mileage as I can, and I've heard of some of the RS6 turbo setup people getting 25-30mpg. With these even bigger turbos I bet I can get at least as good (if I don't spool.) Also, I want to have OEM-like reliability and I've heard of a couple of 3.0l and 2.8l cars that consume oil (though that shouldn't be an issue with a builder the caliber of Jarl, my machinist.) Also, IMO it's not worth the money to go 2.8 with new pistons because that .1l difference of displacement is pretty much negligible with regards to spool and overall power, and any drop in compression could be similarly achieved reliably with headgaskets (Simpply's car was running like 40psi on thicker headgaskets.) A combination of all of this and a desire for OEM-like reliability led me to retain the stock pistons and displacement.As I'm sure you can tell, I've paid incredible attention to detail because I was planning on never selling the car.
Onto the details! Here's a list of the mods and details:
-OEM RS4 bumper complete with RS4 bumper supports, RS4 mesh grills and RS4 foglights
-OEM Euro Rear Bumper (rare-ish and spendy)
-OEM RS4 front hood grill
-Depo E-codes (brand new and I just had the headlights and RS4 foglights 3m coated)
-DDM 55w HID slim ballast kit
-Fiber Images carbon fiber trunk including CF frame, custom painted
-Black painted roof
-Suntek Carbon Series 20% tint (their highest line, non-metalic carbon dyed film with a lifetime fade warranty, installed just before I put in in the garage)
-Flik Arctic 18 x 8.5's black with polished lip, w/ Falken ZX-912's (5 wheels because of full size spare). These weigh around 21lbs each IIRC and could also make a good track rim if you need to stuff a huge BBK.
-H&R adjustable coilovers
-I've got in.pro sport mirrors that you I can swap for you if you'd rather have the sport mirrors rather than the white
-Interior- (all brand new except for the pedals)
-AWE vent boost gauge, new style up to 30psi
-AWE silver metal pedals
-JHM short shifter, 1" drop in height
-Carbon fiber beltline trim (it's taken off the car just about to be sent off to the CF guy who promised a quick turn-around time)
-OEM RS4 black air-soft shift knob
-Custom GT exhaust manifolds, 3" v-band (on both ends) downpipes, and custom GT inlets from Agtronic (only manis and DP's in the world to fit these turbos.)
-TiAL MV-S 38mm v-band wastegates in silver with 1bar springs (the springs on these are way less expensive to replace than the 44mm v-band one)- routed to recirculate back into the downpipes
-Garrett GT2860R-707160-7 turbos
-AN oil and coolant lines for the GT turbos from ATP
-Eurojet Kugel (grenade) diverter valves in silver
-Evolution Racewerks (ER) side mount intercoolers
-SDR X-1 Carbon Fiber Intake with AEM dryflo filter
-RS4 Airbox - your choice
-Custom dual 3" to single 4" exhaust with a resonator and flat black Vibrant 1155 dual tip muffler
-2.8l heads with 2.8 cams
-034/Supertech 1mm oversized high temp steel intake valves
-034/Supertech high temp inconel exhaust valves
-034/Supertech intake valve springs with titanium retainers
-034/Supertech dual exhaust valve springs with titanium retainers
-Heads were hottanked, mating surfaces decked, 3-angle valve job, the valve seats modified to accommodate the 1mm oversize valves, and had new guides and valve stem seals put in. The coolant ports that you need to tap and plug to run the 2.8 heads on the 2.7t were installed as well. Also new cam gaskets, cam plugs, cam tensioner gaskets, valve cover gaskets, and valley gasket between the heads
-Eurospec non-stretch headbolts
-2001.5 intake manifold, gasket matched or transition intake manifold spacers
-Integrated Engineering (IE) forged connecting rods with ARP 2000 rod bolts
-New front and rear main seals, rod and main bearings, thrust washers, main bolts, piston rings with the cyliners honed, the block hottanked and decked, rotating assembly balanced, new oil pump, o-rings, upper and lower oil pan sealant, new vaccum lines for the DV's
-New timing belt service (timing belt, serpentine belt, metal impeller water pump, thermostat, timing belt idlers, timing belt damper, relay tensioner leveler, coolant flush)
-Clutchmasters FX450 6-puck clutch with sintered iron faces, new flywheel bolts and throwout bearing (supposedly handles the higher power better and lasts longer than the normal FX400, but uses the same pressure plate and is just as easy to daily drive)
-Clutchmasters Steel Lightweight Flywheel
-New tranny fluid with Redline MT-90
-New differential fluid
-New power steering fluid
-New, clean and white coolant reservoir
-New auxiliary water pump
-New 02 sensor
-New passenger EGT sensor
-New (used OEM, I didn't like the EMPI I had on there previously) passenger axle half-shaft
-New updated coolant temp sensor
-ASP DTS bar
-JHM solid polyurethane DTS mount
-JHM shifter linkage
-JHM delrin shifter arm bushing
-034 Track Density motor mounts
-034 Track Density transmission mounts
-034 Poly Snub Mount w/cage
-T-bolt clamps on pressurized hoses
-Bosch 044 in-tank fuel pump
-Bosch EV14 83lb injectors
-Bosch F5DPOR plugs
-85mm MAF housing
-Maintenance and Notes-
-All control arms were replaced shortly before I bought it at 49k mi
-Pads and rotors were done at approx 41k mi
-The fenders were professionally rolled and can accommodate 19 x 8.5 wheels without rubbing
-Comes with touch up paint (previous owner had it from when he had the RS4 front and Euro rear painted, there's been no paint otherwise (other than the black
-Comes with the coilover adjuster wrenches
-Clean carfax (at least it was when I bought it and nothing has happened since)-The pixels in the center display of the cluster gauge are 100% functional
-I've got the extras like the stock trunk and bumper if someone doesn't dig those for some reason, and they're negotiable
-It's got a custom anti-theft feature that I'll explain to the new buyer
-Brake fluid was flushed last year with high temp racing fluid Motul RBF 600
-The interior is treated and maintained with Leatherique products
-Jarl, my machine shop guy at Fuel, Air, and Spark Technologies, is a killer engine builder who's really big with the local EVO and Suby guys. He's done every one of the local big power S4's as well (2 RS6 S4's and one GT (raktaS4, dpaudi, and CobraKiller on here)
-Just to give an example of the level of care and maintenance this car has had, the car was a CPO until 46k mi and the previous owner had the timing belt replaced preventatively at 44k (the current motor is a different one however and that's why I'm doing the complete timing belt service again on it. The new motor had 46k original miles before being built.) I have been known to avoid brush washes like the plague and always warmed up and cooled down the turbos (I thought I was going to stay stage 2+ haha.) I treat all of my motors with AutoRX. Obviously I'm super anal about my cars, and if I were looking to buy a car I'd be looking for someone like myself to buy from
Most definitely a die-hard DIY person (my field is engineering.) A main motivating factor of me even starting this project was for the DIY aspect of building a fast car, learning a lot on the way, and doing so the least expensive way possible. I basically outfitted an entire garage with a lift, tools, toolbox, workbench, engine hoist, etc for a good amount less than it would have cost to pay someone legit who knows these cars well to do it for me. And I planned the effort, experience, and tools invested into this project to enable me to do whatever future maintenance necessary for this car like it's cakewalk (since it's a highly modified car, so I'm also saving that tons of money in the future from this experience.) I now know this car inside and out. And by this DIY route, I KNOW everything is put together right. I hate paying for something and not being satisfied, so I'd rather save my money and do it right myself (I'm sure almost no shop would give the car the attention that I have lol.) The general car knowledge/experience gained from this project will help me with whatever future maintenance/modifications I do on whatever other cars I will have in the future as well. I'd much rather invest money into tools rather than labor, and invest my own time into making my personal skills better. I plan on this being a life-long passion:)
However, for other car areas like bodywork and paint, for example, I've weighed it out and I won't make enough use of the necessary skills/equipment required to do a quality job to justify the cost and investment (time and effort.) I'll be happy to pay the skilled craftsman for big bodywork stuff throughout my life ha. I'm debating on the fabrication side of stuff though. I've got tools at my disposal currently, but it takes so much effort and time to acquire the artist-like skills to do quality fabrication. Not to let some future thoughts out of the bag, but with the tools at my garage and stuff, you might see a sub $8k big single turbo 6-speed 2.7 widebody C5 A6 as a daily driver for me ha. Something I definitely couldn't do if I didn't have the tools/experience from this project.
And just to shed a little more light on the money and time aspect, the car is completely paid off, and I have another car that I love as a daily driver, so it's not costing me any money or comfort to take as long as I as I want on the project (though I'm jonesing hard core for some speed!!!!!!!exclamationpoint!!!)
Update, my daily driver is being sold on Sunday, so this project just got pulled off the backburner and thrust into the fire! Also, you'll likely be soon seeing some R&D and product development that will benefit the rest of the B5 S4 community, if I decide to make more than 1. I'll update again after Sunday when the car is actually gone and I'm driving a beat-to-crap 97' F150 singlecab that has a driver's door that doesn't close all of the way (someone backed up Tommy Boy style at a gas pump). Nothing like driving a crappy car to motivate you to quickly finish your nice car ha.
So this was my last view of my beloved A4 USP. Hopefully the new owner will love her as much as I.
And this is the lovely Romco Roofing truck that I get to rock for the next little while
Notice the driver's door that doesn't close and the duct taped rear view glass
So just thinking out loud here, because I like it in other people's build logs when they talk about their current research. So I've been finalizing my fueling design over the past couple of nights. Since I've got two local E85 stations around me, I'm planning building up the fuel system to be killer and upgradeable for if I ever get crazy with it in the future and swap in huge turbos, or in case I throw a 150 shot in there.
So after doing a bunch of research, there are two setups I'm debating between. I'm running a surge tank and new lines no matter what (though I would have stuck with stock lines for my setup if I hadn't planned on running E85.)
1. Dual Walbro 255lph in the surge tank, and one 255lph in the tank as a primer pump.
Pros- quiter, don't heat up much, cheaper (but not much)
Cons- more complex fuel line plumbing and electronics wiring, if one (or two) pumps fail, the motor can go lean and damage itself, walbro doesn't warranty the pumps (they charge $40 to look at it, and if it is indeed defective they'll refund it.)
**-side note, I considered the same setup as above, but with twin Bosch 044's, but I chose against them for a couple of reasons: they would be more expensive than the proposed setup below, they will way overflow what I'll need with my current setup (heating up the fuel more than necessary) and I don't want to deal with running a hobbs switch or anything to them. Bosch only rates those pumps for 500hrs for E85 as well.
2. Run a single Magnafuel MP-4302 ( http://www.magnafuel.com/products/efi/pumps/MP-4301.htm )
These are rated to run like 1000hp+ on gas, so like 700+ on E85 (I read about a bunch of people that were running those levels+ at the wheels). This pro tuner series is made to be able to run on the street and doesn't require an external controller. Also, this pump is the smallest of the series, but it's easily rebuild-able to the 2000hp+ verison, for relatively cheaply. Also, supposedly these type of pumps provide enough suction that I won't need a smaller primer pump in the normal tank. With a single pump, if it fails, it fails, so I don't have to worry about running my motor with a lean condition for an extended period of time like I would with multiple pumps.
Pros- Simpler wiring and plumbing with only one pump, upgradable and futureproof, while closely fitting what I might need soon, rebuildable
Cons- Louder (but it'lll be enclosed and sound deadened,), get's hotter (but I'll be ruining huge lines, and flowing alot of E85 to abate heat-related issues), and is a little more expensive
So those are what I'm deciding between, but I'm leaning towards the single Magnafuel just for simplicity and it's easiest to futureproof with the least compromises now.
It seems the Fuelab pumps have a horrible track record for failure, but the Magnafuel's record is alot better.
Other another note, I'm just ordering piston rings to get the rotating assembly balanced, and just figuring out some hardware to build my stock set of 2.8 heads (I sold the built ones a ways back).
Got a package today
I sold my other heads that were already built, so I'm in the process of building a different set of 2.8 heads that I have. Tomorrow I'm going to pull the rotating assembly out of the block, and as soon as my piston rings come in, it's off to get balanced.
And these came in, so I'm hoping to get some motor stuff going this weekend.
Got some 80mm TB's for the car as well for when the time comes.
It felt weird to actually get back in the shop and do some work again, complete with bloody forearms and bruised palm ha. I got my block most of the way torn down over the weekend to get it honed/decked and to get the heads under way. I was surprised at how flawless the bores looked with all of the crosshatching perfectly intact, and the pistons looked really good with just wiping them down with a paper towel. I was also surprised at how heavy the block with just the crank is. I was alone and I took the motor off the stand to put into the trunk, and it was probably the heaviest thing I have ever lifted on my own (and I weigh ~135lbs). Threw out my freaking back ha.
Also, Kurt, I looked more into that Stealth 340, and it actually looks really good and I'll probably run that as my in-tank.
Also, picked up a little something something. My second set of built heads
Freshly hottanked, decked, honed and polished
Small update. I'll let the pics do the talking, I'm designing the surge tank (or should I say over-designing lol, it probably would've been good enough to just get up there with a tape measure). And at the end are pics of some parts waiting to be powder coated. I've also picked up my rotating assembly, so the engine assembly will happen as soon as I get some time.
The black braided lines in the post above the last are full PTFE (read: teflon) black stainless braided lines. I was going to go with the "push-loc" type, but, after a lot of research, I didn't want to worry about a possible gas smell, and I wanted to do the lines once, and do them right without having to worry about potentially re-running them in a couple of years.
Good article on this here: http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...ses/index.html
Super special "cats"
Some more peeks at powder coated goodness. I won't be posting any of the color pics until the motor is assembled.
And just for other people's reference, probably not worth the effort to powdercoat the top oil pan. I probably wouldn't do it again if I were to start over.
More P-coat time
Lets see if anyone can guess what color this rod comes out to be.
It' the new slick teflon paint, helps with friction.
j/k It's just a decorative piece I used to test the color (hint: that's not how the color ultimately came out, and neither for the IM).
You know what's awesome? Finally going to go assemble your motor, and dropping the cam chain tensioner, breaking two cam chain guides
I've got another set of heads that I can pull some from, but they're up in my shop 45 mins away. I'll have to grab them later, just sucks to not be able to get done what I had hoped when I finally had time.
My stock '01.5 intake manifold has surprisingly horrible castings, and looks worse than I had thought. Lots of room for improvement here.
Pictaars of some final parts.
This thing is the key to my home-made ethanol content analyzer/ fuel temp gauge.
Got all my monitoring equipment in, and if anyone needs anything Zeitronix, I can get you the best price you will find.
Zetronix ZT-2 w/ LCD screen and a ton of other accessories.
Stern engine and tranny mounts, Mike at Ringer Racing and PureMS are both good places to get them.
ARP Main Studs, Eurospec non-stretch headbolts, V-band gaskets and billet stuff. Found out the Eurospec headbolts are cheapest straight from Eurospec.
I think I just need to order my maf and housing, and I'll technically have all of the hardware that I need to get the thang on the road.
Got my computer back online (sorta), so here are the pics I talked about in my last post of painting the block a couple of weeks ago. Good news is that starting Wed I should have a little more time to dedicate to getting the car running.
So...finally a nice, fat update, with a ton of pics. I made an excel spread sheet with all of the consolidated tolerances, specs, and tips that I've accrued throughout my research and over the years. I hope to take a little of the mystery out of the DIY assembly of the rotating assembly/ heads, for anyone that might want to attempt it on their own. This should help with some of the common downfalls of the 2.7l assembly (heads mis-timed, rods installed backwards, etc). If you print it in landscape format, it's 3 pages where you can write the measurements of your engine in. Hope this maybe helps someone!
Vitruvian - 2.7t Engine Assembly Document Download Link
Anywho, onto pics. There's nothing glamorous nor too fun about blueprinting an engine, it took alot of time and was a little bit of a pain. Each one of these pics took like 1hr+ of work, since I'm kind of a meticulous perfectionist sometimes. It's done though!
Getting ready to assemble the heads
Washing all of the parts (this is part that took forever, since I washed pretty much every part in the top and bottom end)
Plastigaging the cam caps
Assembly lube, used a ton of this
I checked it like 5+ times and am 99% sure the timing is correct, but a second/third set of eyes is always beneficial. Let me know if the timing on this driver's head looks correct to you.
Completely assembled after everything was washed, platigaged, lubed, timed and torqued
Ready for the bottom end
ARP main studs and bearings
Plastigaging the crank bearings
The ARP moly lube is key to getting correct torque specs
Well within spec
They're all at least ~.050mm
Got a big workout and torqued them down to 65 ftlbs for the 3rd time (not the easiest when the block isn't mounted to an engine stand)
Pistons and rods to be assembled. The circlips are officially a huge pain to do, and I've got a sensitive thumb now ha.
Checking crank axial tolerance
Gapping the rings. My ring file I fabbed ha.
Checking the rings (3 x 6 = 18 rings to check/gap). Be careful checking the top compression ring, because it's so hard that it can easily scratch the bore if you're not careful.
Assembled with rings
Plastigaging the rod bearings
All assembled, torqued and ready to take up to my shop to put on the engine stand and put the rest of the accessories on before throwing it back into the car!
Plan of attack from here is to get the car running on the stock fuel pump while I finish the intake manifold and surge tank. I hope to have it running soon!
Engine assembly updates. I actually did this like 2 weeks ago, but I got so frustrated with it that I just barely got motivation to post pics. Key takeaway from this post, IF YOU WANT PLUG AND PLAY INSTALLATION, DO NOT GET THE ARP MAIN STUDS.You'll see why in these pics. At least the engine looks good lol.
So it started with the upper oil pan install. I got a surprise when the oil pan wouldn't seat right. I found out that the ARP main studs that I was explicitly told by 034 motorsports that they required no clearancing, because I have the uneven main studs, turned out to be anything but "no modification."
You can see them hitting the webbing here, and the 2nd pic is through the gap between where the pan should seat (you can see the casting webbing on the oil pan hitting the top of the stud).
This wouldn't be the biggest deal if I were a fabricator or welder, with different cutting tools and whatnot, but I only have mechanic's tools and I had everything all perfectly cleaned and laid out, ready to just install (and I do most of my work in the middle of the night, when no stores are open to get anything). Luckily, I brought my dremel and an angle grinder that I bought at Harbor Freight just a couple of days before.
The grinding in general was a major pain, because I would have to go cover up the engine with an engine bag, cut the oil pan a little bit (using my dark sunglasses as eye protection because they were the only thing around), blow it out then clean out the entire oil pan again with liquid and wipe it all down to clear out all of the metal shavings and metal powder that gets between all of the webbings (so that they don't drop into the motor when I fit it), go test fit it only to find out it needs more clearance, or that it now hits in a different spot. Rinse and repeat literally 10+ times just for the upper oil pan (there's more later).
I started clearancing where the longer studs were.
Then I found out I have to clearance the shorter inner studs as well.
Then I found out it hits on the webbing on the ends as well (you can see the nicks where the bolts were hitting).
This was a huge pain, because I had to use my dremel, which isn't the most powerful and is the kind that runs off of an Li battery. The dremel would overheat, and I would have to wait like 20 mins for it to cool down, and then it would run out of battery, so I'd have to wait for it to charge (I only have one battery). Dremel, overheat, dremel, charge battery, clean entire pan, test fit, find out it still doesn't fit, cover up engine, repeat previous steps another 10+ times.
Finally, what it looked like after literally 4+ hours or crapping with it (I know, I'm a slow, inefficient perfectionist).
Got the upper oil pan clearanced and installed, then I used this high-temp silicone tape that I have for powdercoating to fashion an install ring for the front main seal.
Then I got another awesome surprise, courtesy of the ARP main studs
That's a brand new $130 oil pump that's now useless. The oil pump sat pretty well in its place, but apparently the studs hit the bottom of this as well, leaving like a .5cm gap on the bottom. When torquing them to the factory 25Nm spec, the cast pump broke because of the main bolts (the bolts hit in a spot that isn't visible from the top). So I've got a brand new, broken pump. I haven't talked to 034 yet about the main bolts and broken oil pump.
Anywho, so after all that (now on my second night of unprepared clearancing work, on something that I expected to have completely assembled in one night), I then had fall back on using the oil pump that I pulled out of the engine (luckily the pump only has like 40k mi on it), because I had time to work on it then, and not later, so I didn't have time to wait for a new pump to be shipped. I went through the same process of overheating dremel, cleaning, etc 400k times to clearance the oil pump (and be careful not to take off too much of the structural casting).
Another tip, put the oil pump, and sprocket, on before the upper oil pan, or you may have to do this because of the clearance
Pump and upper oil pan finally on
Lower pan on
Valley cover on
This is the thin washer (that apparently has no part # in ETKA?) that goes between the crank sprocket and the crank
Stretch torquing the crank bolt (can you say cheater bar?)
The passenger head's cams get off of TDC when installing the cams, so I used the cam lock bar to turn them into place before installing them on the bottom end
Final timing check (passenger head)
Heads on and torqued, and then I realized something devastaing: There was a missing dowel pin that keeps the leaf spring tensioned on the oil pump chain tensioner It must have got lost over the last 2 years, because it wasn't with my old FMS, nor in any of my bags. If anyone has a random one of these, please let me know. So I had to go back and take off the lower oil pan that I just RTV siliconed (cleaning off that fresh silicone was a major pain, and I still have to do it for the FMS part) and remove the FMS to install that pin before I proceed.
Here, with the FMS off, you can see the clearancing that had to be done on the oil pump
I wanted to do what I could, so I started assembling stuff that wouldn't interfere with reinstalling the FMS and oil pan. Here's the elbow that I got from Lowes to bypass the aux water pump.
Sprayed it with a little black
Cleaned up every part and every hose that I installed, and sprayed some of the stuff with black to clean it up
Threw on what timing parts and coolant hoses I could, and this is how I left her
And I've been at the shop doing more work this weekend, and have more nagging issues, due to hardware suppliers products not living up to their claims. I'll detail this more a little bit later, but one of my turbos doesn't fit, and I'm going to have to wait for a specialty oil line fitting to be sent back in because they either sent the wrong one, or their manufacturing tolerances are horrid.
Pics for the updates from this last weekend. Dowels from ACE hardware that I had to work with to make it fit.
Then I was able to put the FMS and oil pan back on. Then I got the rest of the timing stuff on.
Then I go to bolt on the turbos, and I find that the elbow welded onto the inlet on the passenger side compressor hits a knob on the block, and interferes so I can't bolt the flange all of the way down
I was debating between figuring out what that knub on the block does, and grinding it down if it doesn't do anything, but I ended up reclocking the turbo slightly so that I have a mm or two clearance after bolted up. I've sent an email to Markku at Agtronic to see what he suggests, but I'm hoping that it doesn't interfere with the frame rail or anything else when I go to reinstall the engine. I know it's a tight fit under there.
So, then I go onto making some lines for the oil and coolant to the turbos, since many parts of the ATP turbo line kit were either mis-sized or simply incomplete. I bought these -10 AN adapters from 034 to make the oil return lines, and when I went to fit them into the oil pan, I got yet another awesome surprise. One of the adapters was noticeably different than the other, and it was too large to into the oil pan (in spite of the parts being taken from the same hotdog-link type connected packaging. I've sent an email to Max (since that is who I originally dealt with), and hopefully he is willing to send a replacement asap so that I can potentially install the engine this next weekend.
The good one
The bad one
I used the one that fits to measure some lines, and I'm just waiting on a couple of fittings that will hopefully be here this week.
So, just need to wrap up the turbo lines (which, following suit, were a pretty nagging thing to deal with), then I could potentially do the rest of the big items and get the engine running on a base map!
I'll pull a BigBoost, with a checklist (as much for myself as for the build log). Not necessarily in order.
1. Finish up turbo lines (Get replacement 034 oil pan adapter, get oil inlet lines modified, assemble rest of lines, get fire sleeving)
2. Get flywheel bolts ground down
3. Powerwash engine bay and undercarriage
4. Polish bipipes
5. Assemble rest of engine (serpentine assembly, intake mani, flywheel, tranny, etc)
6. Do 'big 3' wiring upgrade with 0 ga, and wire car for trunk battery relocation, install wideband and sensors (Zeitronix, WB02, EGT, Boost)
7. Reinstall engine
8. Install ER's
8.5. Install HID kit and Depo headlights
9.5. Install interior
10. Get exhaust installed ('cats' , v-bands, and extra resonator welded in)
11. Break it in and tweak the tune!
12. Finish developing custom intake manifold, custom catch can, and custom dual 044 surge tank and nitrous setup
13. Assemble fuel lines and install new fueling setup (surge tank, pumps, lines, rails, FPR, ethanol content analyzer)
14. Self tune for E85!
I'm sure I'll be adding to this list as I remember more stuff.
I spent a ton of time at the shop this last week, but still have like one more day to get it running (I'll post an update when I get time), but I just got your voicemail and I'll call you. Also, if you need a fast B5 S4, it won't be mine for the first little bit, because I'm going to be running wastegate spring boost (13lbs IIRC) and with the stock fuel pump for the first little while, while I break the motor in and build the surge tank/catch can. So it won't necessarily be fast for a while (probably seem like a Toyota Corolla compared to what you've been driving ha). The stroker getting a little unrealistic for daily duty?
And a teaser pic for everyone
Clutch and motor broken in, approx 1200 mi on the engine. I'm off headed up the canyon right now to hopefully tune/optimize my current setup! I'm not sure how much I'll be able to turn up the boost on the stock fuel pump before I start to lean out, but I assume at least a little bit more than the 15psi I have been running. I've got a wideband and all monitoring set up though, so I should be able to get it pretty decent.
And for reference for people, I just got 27.07 mpg driving 215 miles on the highway the past day and a half. Crazy because I had the windows and/or sunroof down for a bunch and was cruising around 80. I've got some MPG tricks up my sleeve as well, and when I get my tune honed in, panzer plate on, and 2.0t coils in, I'm going to go easy for a tank and see what I get. Kind of interesting I got such good mileage, considering I got my worst tank ever, 12.x MPG, the previous tank (though that was with continual fats testing and lots of parking lot idling to keep warm while I view logs and tune).
I guess I've got other non-fun updates as well: turned my front rotors, replaced my rear pads, got a replacement set of bipipes in but yet to install (I had one of the very first sets from 3 or 4 years ago, and they are oddly shaped). Picked up some Y-pipes to finish development on the catch can. Yeah.
Random quick update. Met up with a buddy (Nvrsummer or something on here) with a VAST stage 3 S4 (~19psi, stock IC's, walbro 255 lemmi-tweaked) to go on a drive this last weekend. My car is currently still on stock fuel pump and ~15 psi boost, I've got a small vacuum leak at the DV, and my 3rd gear synchro is grind-y (these are the facts of the car, not excuses). Over the course of the drive we were able to do a couple of pulls. We did like a rolling 2nd gear and a rolling 1st gear pull for the legit pulls. He probably jumped ahead a hood-length for the first second or two, then it was pretty much dead even til the top of third, then I kept pull-ing a couple of cars by around the top of 4th (maybe even 5th?) before we shut it down. It performed almost exactly where I though it would, just about even with an average stage 3, then maybe pulling a little in the higher gears/higher RPM's. They were really casual runs and completely for fun; I'm sure neither of us had the ideal pull or our cars set up ideally. It was just the two of us, so no videos. Good times though. I can't wait to throw in proper fueling, turn up the boost and refine the tune more!
I haven't hooked up my fuel pressure gauge yet, but I have had a wideband on it since the beginning. I'm fine running on wastegate boost (~15.5psi), but when I increase it even to like 17 or so psi, it starts to lean out. So I've been waiting to install my pumps to push it any further, and I've got a fuel pressure gauge.
Running good, been my daily driver coming up on 2 years shortly. Yup, still currently on the stock fuel pump while I finish up testing on the fuel lines/pumps setup I'm developing. Because of the stock fuel pump I'm only able to run wastegate pressure, which is around 16psi (probably around 375-400whp up here at elevation). Just loving driving it around daily at the ~stage 3 level for now, though I'm going to be cranking the wick up shortly as I have my fueling setup getting close to going in, 5 bar map sensor, and pretty much everything ready to rock and roll (other than a tranny that desparately needs to be rebuilt).
I really will update this thread in the next couple of days to show the finish of the build from 2012 and up til now.