This is my new to me 85 URQ I recently purchased from Curt Egerer. Curt was very kind to store the car at his facility till the weather was more conducive for driving it the 90 minutes to my shop. Great guy, thanks again for a great car.
So here is what I know about the car:
"One of the best examples of the classic ur quattro available. Very rare Canadian car. Original Tornado Red paint with black leather interior. 1 of only 17 quattros imported to Canada in 1985! Desirable and rare non-sunroof version. 167,000 KM. Clear Michigan title. Retains original metric instruments - I did not convert anything when I imported this car to the USA.
Over the course of the past 3 years, this car has been totally sorted out by Phil at Auto Europe in Birmingham. Phil was an Audi mechanic back when these cars were brand new. I basically gave him permission to check and correct anything that needed attention. The car was great when I bought it, but it's even better now! New hard fuel lines, clutch and slave cylinders, hydraulic bomb, alternator, starter, water pump, timing belt. tires, battery, master cylinder, rear differential bushing, center driveshaft bearing, etc., etc. The car has a modified head and a modified ECU to allow use of the Euro wastegate spring. A joy to drive. This must be what it was like to drive one of these cars brand new. No rattles or squeaks. Strong performer."
Certainly couldn't take issue with any of that and I've known Curt for a few years as a customer at my shop and when I worked at Auto Europe. I was just starting to think about buying a classic when this showed up. I thought I might import an Opel Manta from Europe. That's the car I had when I moved to the US around 20 years ago. I thought it was time to get one back. But then I saw this and it was obvious this was the car I should have. I grew up watching Group B rally in the forests in England and the quattro has always been my favorite Group B monster. Just the noise alone is enough to get my heart racing. Indeed, as I like to tell people, this car is why I now own a motorsports business and race RallyCross, autocross etc. Plus, it would be good that the car stay in Michigan where Curt could keep an eye on it.
I’ve had the car here for a couple of weeks now and driven it a couple of times. My goals for the car are to keep it in its original condition while fixing some of its issues and not-quite-original features. My list is already long but does not reflect the condition of the car but my mental condition of list making and nit-picking. Here are the highlights of what needs attention IMHO:
Restore leather seats DONE
Hot starting issues
Small dent in hood
Should it have Center console? NO
How much clutch is left?
Oil change DONE
Passenger door lock inoperative FIXED
Driver’s window seal loose
Handbrake boot fits poorly
Fuel leak smell FIXED gas cap
Passenger window sticks at 2” drop FIXED
Pass seat adjuster loose
Vent broken center REPLACED
Passenger door pocket coming away FIXED
Rear diff damp-reseal
Right rear wheel creaks
Gearbox play, mounts?
Rust spots, leading edge of hood, and fender in engine bay
Wrong headlights HAVE ORIGINALS NOW-NOT INSTALLED
Door bars missing?
A/C removed engine bay, replace HAVE BUT NOT INSTALLED
Trunk carpet screws missing
Engine under tray missing right side REPLACED
Radio too new and blingy HAVE ORIGINAL
Upper front strut mounts loose
Rear brake lines rusty
Front ball joints
Lower control arm bushings iffy
Left front cv boot getting brittle REPLACED
Volts-volt and oil temp meters behave oddly
Door carpet coming away FIXED
Non-original steering wheel
Trunk strut inoperative. REPLACED
Key fob light
Speaker cover loose FIXED
I might need help with some of these. Prepare yourselves for many questions. Obviously some of these are urgent and necessary, others trivial nit-picking but you can’t beat having a list. I’m sure it will grow rather than shrink even if I do check some off.
I still find it immensely ironic that, considering that I’m so into rally, have a rally related business and love to drive sideways that I bought a car that I can neither drive in the snow or on the loose. I guess I’ll have to limit my fun to wet roundabouts, the three or four that exist in SE Michigan. I may do the odd autocross in it or maybe a track day. Do they have track days for classics? I already took it round Waterford Hills track at the recent track day but only during the parade laps at lunchtime. Twas quite fun. Probably, this is what I’ll do most with the car. Just take it to local motorsport events and shows so people can enjoy seeing it. I am going to slap some BRAID wheels on it and a discreet windshield banner in white “BRAIDUSA.com” though as it has to earn it’s keep somehow.
These are the wheels that are on a boat in the Atlantic right now. What do you think?
I chose them because they are very reminiscent of the works wheels used on the S1, at least in my opinion. I ordered them in the same specs as the originals. I’ll use the Kumho 225/50-15 tires that came on the OE Ronals. Curt also gave me a set of BFG 215/50-15 which was the OE size but I’m not sure what to do with those yet.
Hopefully I’ll remember to update this page with news of the car's development and outings. Meanwhile, if you have any questions or suggestions let me know. I’m all ears, as some of you already know.
My new BRAID wheels come in on Monday along with a couple of hundred others.
I'm not sure what tires to put on them. Currently I have some Kumho AST 225/50-15 on the original Ronal aloys and a set of unmounted BFG in the original size of 215/50-15. The easiest thing to do would be to put the BFG on the new wheels then I'd at least have two working sets available. The "proper" thing to do might be to put the 225 on the BRAIDs and the 215 on the Audi wheels for "originallty's" sake. However, both sets of tires are going to age out before they wear out so one set is just going to be sat there wasting away. Perhaps I should get rid of one set but which. 215/50-15 are quite hard to find now but I like the look of the wider 225.
What to do?
Had the car detailed by Ray's Auto Detail in Pontiac this week. It was already clean by my standards but now I understand what really clean is. After using his clay bar Ray made the paint as smooth as a baby's bum. I've never owned a car I had to keep clean; my other car is a rallycross beater. I don't even own any cleaning supplies or equipment except for a bucket! I have a lot to learn.
Well the wheels finally came in and I immediately slapped some tires on them and bolted them on the car. What do you think?
Then I took it out to the lake for Memorial Day.
In case you're curious the wheels are BRAID Serie 6 R 3 piece, 15x8 with 225/50-15 Kumho tires.
Sorry chaps, it's been a while since I have had chance to update this thread. I'd like to think that since putting the BRAID wheels on the car our sales have gone through the roof and I have just been too busy fulfilling orders to post. Well, that's only half the case, I've also been kept busy keeping cars on the road. None of my four cars, including this one, have been behaving themselves so far this summer but at least it gives me plenty to write about here. So what's been going on? Well:
The first hiccup of the season became apparant when the car became hard to start. I'd noticed lately I'd had to turn the key a little more "aggresively" sometimes but then it became impossible to get the car to turn over at all. Thankfully it did this at the shop and not 1000 miles from home. It was clear contact was not being made in the ignition switch and all kinds of horrors about getting a new one and taking apart the steering column went through my mind. As it turned out it was surprisingly simple to sort out on both fronts. First off, my local O'rielly's had the switch on the shelf. God knows why but bless their little Irish souls non the less. Now, to put it in. I approached with trepidation but needn't have. AllData give pretty explicit instructions.
Remove the steering wheel, column shround and indicator stalks. Then pry off the spring washer that holds on the spring and you are left with this:
Then you remove that pinch bolt and the ignition switch housing slides up the column and lands on your bench:
Just remove that small phillips head screw to relaese the switch and pop in the new one. Needless to say, assembly is the reverse of disassembly but getting the spring wash in place was a little tricky. I used a 19mm impact socket and a hammer to drive it home. You don't need a lot of force, probably because you are supossed to use a new washer but once the steering wheel is back on it can't go anywhere.
Job done. Car's good for the summer but maybe I should just change the oil first. How hard could it be?
So I put the car on lift and look where the oil filter should be and bloody hell, there's two of the buggers! I was so stunned I forgot to take a picture! So off to the store to find a second filter. Apparently it's for the turbo. Why ddin't you guys tell me about this? Well, just before taking off I decide to have a look around under there and WTF is that all over my nice new BRAID wheel?
CV grease. That's what.
Oh man. Ah well. new axle, 20 minutes of a job. How hard could it be. Well, I couldn't find an axle but I did find a CV boot. No, not at O'rielly's this time but my friends at Auto Europe hooked me up with one from Worldpac. Not OE but something appropriately German. They even slapped it on for me once I got the axle out which was a bit of a trial due to the lack of space to maneuver it around.
Undo these at the tranny end
Take of the brakes and axle nut
then realize there's not enough room for the axle to slide out of the wheel bearing.
Have a cup of tea and then get creative with the jack.
Voila. Off to Auto Europe with you.
Strip the old boot. Remove the C clip and hit it with a BFH, gently of course.
Put on new boot. Run back to shop. Forget to take photo. Installation was the reverse and simple but being in there did inspire me to take on refurbishing the front suspension. So went on a quest for upper strut mounts, anti roll bar bushings, lower ball joints and even some strut inserts.
Drove the car home that night to celebrate. Look, it even made it. But there is a reason it is on the street and not up the driveway.
More on that later. I need a rest.
So, to continue the saga, the reason the car was sitting on the street instead of in my driveway was that I couldn't get reverse, nor, for that matter, 1st or 2nd! It was allright when I left the shop but by the time I was nearing home, about 20 minutes, 1st became 3rd and I kept stalling at the lights 'cause it don't like to set off in 3rd. Shift lever was feeling a bit woolie too.
I nursed it back to my shop the next day, got it on the lift and found the shifter bushing, #27 in the picture below, had distintergrated. This must have hapenned gradually over a number of years and I guess, with the elevated temperatures lately, it just crossed the threshold of being able to move the selector shaft enough to find the outermost gears. Once I fix this it should feel like a short shifter compared with the long throw that I thought was normal.
The bushing is, of course, no longer available but I found out that 034 Motorsport are making them and I also picked up an OE one from a guy on ebay UK along with some other goodies (see below). Now I have a lifetime's supply.
Apparantly, the short rod, #35 often fails and they are NLA too. Mine seems fine thankfully. The ball on the top of #33 can come loose too but again, mine seems good. It was a little tight in there above the tranny and after finding water in my basement last night I said "Sod this" and booked it in at Auto Europe. As much as I like to work on my cars I just don't have time to tackle this fiddly job with all the other stuff crumbling around me right now. Thank god my Jeep's fixed; and the Subaru moves under its own power too now, sort of.
Some stuff I dd take care of myself though:
I managed to get a gas strut for the trunk. Apparantly it needs two to support the weight of the trunk and that huge spolier and if you only have one like I had it will crash down on your bonce while you are deep in conversation with your spare tire. OUCH!. Couldn't find an OE one at a decent price so went with a Stabilus to match the other side. So much nicer than the stick I was using. Much more civilised.
I've been trying to track down a fuel smell for some time now. It was often there but seemed to be worse with the windows open and after taking some corners, particularly left handers. It was worse the more fuel was in the tank too, I think. Initially I suspected the long breather pipe that goes from roughly the middle of the tank to the filler neck. The original one was very soft so I thought it might be sweating if not actually leaking. I replaced it with a bit of basic hose temporarily and thought it made a bit of a difference but later realised that might have been wishful thinking. I may yet put the original hose back on.
Later I discovered that the gas cap was getting wet with fuel after spirited drives so I replaced the fuel cap gasket with an OE one from the dealer. So far (not very far actually) so good. Fingers crossed. No picture; it's a round piece of rubber with a big hole in the middle. Use your imagination.
When I initially test drove the car the passenger side window stopped working. Well, not completely. It would just go down a couple of inches, make a horrible grinding noise and stop. Fortunately it decided to go back up so I bought the car anyway. So I finally got a chance to get inside the door motivated by the increasing temperatures and lack of air conditioning in the car. Door card came off easily once I located all the screws and clips (didn't braek any either )
I was happy to find that the wire that pulls the window mechanism had come derailed from the bottom pulley and with a bit of effort I managed to get it back on there. It works now but does make some funny noises sometimes. The same noises the driver's side makes so I figured they are factory. Job done!
While I was in there I took the opportunity to have a look at the door lock mechanism. The button was going up and down when I operated the driver's side lock but the key was doing nothing in the passenger side, not that one ever uses the key in that side. It did cross my mind that perhaps it was a design feature then I realised, why would they have a lock. Anyway, brain back in gear it soon became apparant that the little plastic ear on the back of the lock had become detached from its actuator rod. Two minutes and a skimmed knucle later it was back on and working as Audi intended all along. Look:
While messing around in the cabin with the various ***** and switches I found out that my blower fan goes to ELEVEN. Well, it goes to four but that's amazing as the the panel only indicates 3. It works too; fan goes even faster! I can't for the life of me figure out why the switch goes to 4 while the panel only goes to 3. What were they drinking in Ingoldstat in the mid-eighties?
I put back the undertray that giudes air to the intercooler. It came with the car but not actually attched to it. I had to do a bit of rally-rigging with some zip ties as it's missing a couple of screw holes now.
Part of my ebay UK haul was a pair of new sun visor clips in more or less the original color. A snap to swap out but they totally transform the car. Handles as if on rails. OK, they hardly made any difference, even to the visors, but it feels good to have replaced more broken stuff.
More UK parts: dash vents, middle and sides. Only my middle one was broken but it's good to have spares right?
Broken vent. All flippity floppoty:
New vent. All nice and together. You can see the tabs that hold it in place too....
....so I know where to stick my screw driver.
Maybe I should just leave it like this:
Man, that was a lot of venting.
In the category of interesting aside did you know, Wikipedia says "The Illuminati, a Bavarian secret society, was founded in Ingolstadt..." and my business is called Team Illuminata Motorsport. Coincidence? I'm saying nothing. Schtum!
Now, off to Auto Europe with you Stiggy (Hmm. I think I just named my car)
Just got the car back from Auto Europe and it now shifts beautifully
Thanks to Kenny who did a great job and worth every penny to let a professional fiddle with it this time. Here's what came out:
26 year old German rubber. Yuk!
Kenny said the short rod #35 was OK but getting a little worn. I should start looking for one but they are NLA of course. Anyone have one or want to make me one?
When I went to pick the car up they had it parked next to a Corrado. Interesting comparison don't you think?
The Corrado almost looks like a next generation quattro more than the one that actually followed it.
Now the shift libkage is sorted I've started thinking about a suspension rebuild. Have all the bushings bought but Kenny also gave me some NEW Bilsteins for the car. They are actually from a later car but might fit. Anyone know?
Also, it looks like my gas cap gasket has solved my fuel smell issues too
Am I missing something, literally?
I noticed my front grill was a bit loose along the bottom so had a fiddle with it. All the top clips are in place but I'm not sure what is supossed to hold it in place along the bottom. It seems like it might latch behind the bumper via some tabs but they don't reach high enough. There is evidence of one potential securing device roughly in the center but it may be broken. Can't believe that's athe only means of securing the grill so how do the 85 grills attach, anyone know or care to probe theres?
Some pictures to illustrate:
I've been driving the car quite a bit recently, mostly aolng Woodward Avenue, the venue for the upcoming Dream Cruise. For those of you who are not familiar with this crazy event check out this web site. Basically, Woodward, which is a mile from my house, hosts the biggest car event on the planet next week and has been building up to this climax for the last couple of months. The street is the ultimate car guys hangout during the summer months. I spend way too much time here but the car is a big hit and it can't hurt business. I will skip the actual cruise itself as I'll be at a RallyCross but by then it is so far out of controll as to be not worth it. The preceeding week is the best IMHO with every conceivable type of car on display driving right by you. Here it is taking on two modern iterations of the theme:
So as a result of all this hanging out on Woodward a few issues came to light. First of the car cut out as I was leaving a prime Woodward vantage spot last Friady. I popped the hood/bonnet and fiddled with the ignition equipment looking for anything obvious. The only thing I found out of place was the connector on the side of the distributor which had come loose. The screw holding it on would not thread back into the distrubutor body so I zip tied it in place in proper rally fashion. Car started right up and has been fine since.
I got it into the shop the next day but could not get the screw to tighten up. It seems as if the threads have stripped so we are sticking with the zip tie for now. I broke the bracket in the process too I have no idea what this connector is for or if it could have caused the engine to cut out like it did but it seems to run fine now.
I did notice the rotor arm seemed a little worse for wear when I looked at it so I cleaned it up with a bit of sand paper for now and ordered a new one for next week.
I also had some issues with the driver's window. It wouldn't go back up a few times. I had had this happen once before but disproved it later when it slid up nice and smooth but this time it definately needed some assistance. I've since figured out that it only does this if it's raining or I've jsut washed the car. Seems as if the guides are a little loose so the window can wobble in them and if it's wet stick. Are the guides adjustable or do you have to replace them? I did try to have a look in the door but failed at the first hurdle: I couldn't get the door handle off the door card! Oh, the screws came out OK but I couldn't figure out how to disconnect the wires from the power mirror switch in the handle. I couldn't even create enough slack to rotate and release the top mount so I could see the connector so was doing it blind. Any trcks here or can anyone tell me how it comes apart?
I also need to replace a breather shown below as it it perishing and looks about to fail. Of course it is no longer available new and the generic pipe I had in the shop was too small.
Why do I have two heated window switches? Neither of which seem to do anything anyway. The top one even feels broken as it does not flip on or off positively. Why two and what do they do? Are they readily available and easy to replace?
I found this relay on the floor under the driver's seat.
Anyone have any idea what it's for?
See you on Woodward this week?
Thanks to some tips from some helpful Audi owners I got into the door again yesterday. The switch does just pry out of the handle and is easy to unplug with the help of a screwdriver:
Then it was easy to get the door card off and find out what is causing my window to stick.
Here's one obvious issue. Two of the isolator studs that hold the motor to the door have sheared so the motor flops around under load. Can't be ideal.
Fortunately there was a threaded hole in the motor that lined up with the big hole that I assume was for a hand crank on lesser models. I used a big washer and secured it in place. I couldn't locate it where it wanted to be as it wouldn't clear the big aftermarker speaker that a previous owner added. maybe this is the cause of the shearing.
Hopefully that helps though the window still felt loose in its guides. To help I shoved some large cable ties behid the guides to push them out a bit and take up some of the slack. It work somewhat.
I tried to replace my rotor arm but was supplied with the wrong part. Hole is too small.
I did mange to find a self tapping screw to hold my hall sensor in place though. no more cable ties. Looks almost OE.
I had a go at my over-abundance of heated rear window switches too. I loosened the bezel but it wouldn't come off without removing the steering wheel and indicator stalks. Fortunately I still had enough room to pry out the switches and blank and this is what I found taped up:
Looks like someone nearly had a fire. This might explain the two HRW switches and why one was iffy. The undamaged one wasn't connected to anything nor were there any extra wires back there so I suspect a prevoius owner bought a new switch to try to fix a non-funtioning HRW and just left them both in place when he found the melted mess. Im not sure if I'm going to deal with this one either.
I am wondering if there is a short in the HRW wiring somewhere. I had a quick look in the under-hood fuse box but didn't find a relay for it.
Maybe one day when the dash is apart I'll splice in a new HRW connector for that newer switch.
So a couple of weeks ago now (I've been on vacation) I took the car to a RallyCross. before you get too excited, no, I didn't run the car, just took it out there to see the new Detroit Region course and hang with my RallyCross buddies most of whom haven't seen the car yet. Parked it right in the middle of the paddock for maximum exposure but was soon joined by another red Audi:
On the way there I tried the cruise control as I was on a freeway for about 30 minutes. I was very impressed that it still worked but even more impressed how it held the speed rock steady over hill and dale. Awesome.
No. that's km/h not mph. I beleive this represents exactly 70mph
The last 15 minutes to the event was on the smoothest dirt road I have ever seen. The car thought it was at Rally Finland!
I booked it out of there before a big storm rolled through but had a great time doing ride alongs with some of the competitors. Glad I took my helmet. I was quite pleased with how the car drove and that it didn't, for once, break any parts or show any previously hidden issues; or so I thought. This is what I discovered the other day:
Yep, broken exhaust hanger. Anyone know where to get one of these? Car is still serviceable thanks to the wonders of cable ties.
No wonder they call these a rally icon. There's more cable ties on this than my rally car now!
I'm still struggling to find the correct distributor rotor for the car. The first had the same electrode as the current one but was too small to fit over the shaft. The latest (#3) fits but the electrode is smaller. Can I use this one?
Still need a new gas cap too.
Cars and Coffee at Kart 2 Kart tomorrow.
Time for an update. Been doing a bit of driving and a bit of maintenance. Car has been behaving itself lately too. Took it on a 3 hour round trip to Northern Ohio a few weeks ago:
Though it was daylight I ran it with the headlights on both ways as a test. Someone, perhaps on here, had mentioned how the headlight switch can get really warm and sometimes can melt the connector behind the switch. I thought, with Fall approaching, it might be an idea to see if they would survive and indeed they did but, I must say, the switch did get alarmingly warm. In fact I would go as far as to describe it as "hot"! So when I got back I put it on my list to investigate the wiring with a view to maybe adding some relays.
It was during this process that I decided my main beams weren't working as I couldn't get the inner-most set of lights to come on. Later, with the car in the shop I could clearly see the main beams change from low beam so was a little puzzled. Once I got the lights off the car I realized that it has dual filamet H4s or something and they are wired up and work but the innermost high beams are not wired up wihch is why I didn't see them come on and why I thought they weren't working. In the daylight I couldn't see the H4s change to main beam. This must all be a consequence of the Euro headlight conversion the car underwent sometime in its past. So, I am going to rewire the headlights and all main beams to function using the headlight switches to control relays powered directly from the battery. I think I can create a harness for this that will just plug into the existing wiring without doing any cutting or splicing too. We will see.
I did discover that the headlight adjusters are missing too. Apparantly these were automatic motorized jobbies on the Euro cars but manual ones can be used too. Anyone shed any light on this?
I also discovered a bit of rust behind the right side headlight. I'll have to get a bit of stop-rust on that later.
While I had the lights out I thought it a good idea to have a look at the air filter as it seems impossible to get at it from above. Look:
I manged to pry the lid off enough, but just enough, to ease the filter out.
It was really tight and the clips were hard to reach. In fact it looks like the previous owner managed to pinch one of the pleats between the lid and housing last time it was replaced. Probably wasn;t sealing too well I bet:
Turns out it has a washable K&N filter so I washed it, oiled it and put it back
After checking the filter I thought it might be a good idea to check the spark plugs especially as they are so easy to get at. hey were all in pretty good shape but were of the triple electrode type from Bosch. I thought these were a bit hokey so went in pursuit of some replacements only to be told that these are the correct ones the car came with. Is ths right?
I tried the new narrow contact rotor arm on the run to Ohio. The car ran fine but didn't feel as powerful so I have swapped back the wider one. Feels better again. I have found a Porsche part number for the wide rotor arm and endeavoring to acquire one through our local Porsche dealer. The pld w one is not in bad shape but a new one can't hurt.
My brand new gas cap came in too and proved successful during the Ohio trip. I can now run a full tank withought is pouring down the side of the car.
On the way back through Canada last week I swung by the previous previous owners shop for a visit. I had hoped to be in the quattro but those plans fell through but still, it was good to visit with Rob and share stories of the car. I snagged a few original parts to such as the quad lights and ac parts. perhaps I'll put them on one day.Thanks Rob.
I'm trying to drive the car as much as possible rather than working on it as winter is approaching but I still have a few things I want to do sooner rather than later such as the headlight relays, rotor arm, breather hose and radio though I must say I am enjoying my 80s Duran Duran albums lately.
Not much URQ action lately
I did find an almost new radio on eBay though Thanks Artur.
to replace the bling thing that's in it now:
I may have an opportunity to drive the car this week as a friend of mine wants to barter a drywall job for a drive in the car! Not a bad deal hey?
Took the UR quattro out for one last blast today before I put it away for the winter. Strange concept for me this. Not used to it at all. Car performed flawlessly again and was a joy to drive I took it to say "Au revoir" to Francois' URQ which is off to Maryland then home to say "Bonjour" to our new A3. Not much family resemblance here IMHO.
After this little rendevous I filled it with gas, added a bottle of Stabil, took it back to the shop and gave it a good wash. Tomorrow I will wax it and put it away As it will be down for a fair few months I intend to do some serious work on it. Stay tuned for developments
I tried putting the new-old radio in before I put the car away but got flummoxed by the unusual (to me) mini DIN speaker sockets on the back of the unit (top left)
Apparantly the plugs that go into them look like these:
But of course, mine are long gone, replaced by some fatter, after market speaker wire. I did get the thing to power up and make noise by touching bare wires to the terminals so that's a good sign.
We had a bit of fun before we put the car away, test fitted an 18" BRAID Winrace A off a customers A3. I think it looks, er, interesting. Offset is all wrong and the tire is an inch to tall but it looks kind of cool IMHO
HEY, WHERES IT GONE !!
Ah, there it is. I think this is called "hibernating"
I also been doing a bit of "aquisition" on the parts front. Snagged this huge workshop manual and lug bolt covers from eBay UK.
Did these cars come with lug nut covers? Lug nut heads are certainly ugly affairs. Still need a removal tool though.
My sister made me this lovely canvas of the car for Christmas
and then I bought myself this to get me through the long, dark winter nights
Not much URQ action lately though, with the current weather conditions I am tempted to sneak it out for a play. Just have to move too much dead car out of the way to get to it or I believe I would. I did take the dust cover of for a little wheel test fit photo shoot last week though:
They look kind of OE don't they? What do you think? Tires are a re a little tall. These are BRAID Winrace A 17x8 with +45 offset. I used some 20mm spacers on here to make them effectively +25, almost stock. They have winter tires on as they are my wife's A3 winter setup. Hope you don't feel too lead astray by the heading for this post now LOL. Before I played with them on the URQ we had them on a friends S4 for a week as he and another friend were kindly tearing around northern Michigan last week spectating at the Sno*Drift rally with their cars resplendent in BRAID wheels and decals. Maybe you saw them.
We also had a four car team and provided one of the lead cars as well as displaying at all the service areas.:
I also received some more inspiration in the mail from ebay. Not quite the right color but way closer than my black one. Anyone want to buy that BTW?
I also bought all Francois's spare parts after he sold both his URQs earlier this year.
I'll have to go through them and see what I can use. Getting excited about getting the car on the hoist to rebuild the front and rear suspension but first I have to work on our Jeep, Sprinter and race car. PHEW!
And so it begins, pre-season refurb. Just a few items to take care of before spring gets going (even more):
*heat stuck on
*Relay head lights & Main beams
*Ignition rotor arm
*Perished breather hose
*Upper strut mounts front & rear
*Rear brake lines
*Replce ball joints
*Lower control arm bushings
*Timing belt cover reinstall
*Gear box play, mounts?
Perhaps I should have gotten started sooner.
First task, finish putting an original radio in. I found some old style speaker connectors on eBay and spliced them into the aftermarket speaker wires, Works too even with the tape adapter playing from my Iphone but only 80s music comes out. Rear speakers appear to be blown. No bass but front work fine.
Next I turned my attention to rebuilding the suspension. Soaked all the fasteners with PB Blaster. Started by removing the front anti-roll bar.
Maybe I didn't allow enough time for the PB Blaster to work as I broke one of the end links. Where can I get a new one?
I felt this was enough progress for the first evening especially as I am now fully committed to replacing the suspension components rather than driving the car round in its compromised condition. More to follow..........
Everything in the front suspension is loose and ready to come off:
Non of my pullers or presses could get a purchase on it. I tried heat and hammers to no avail. Need more tools.
Something from this box should work
Like this perhaps
Now I have to tear this apart.
The parts haul so far
I also discovered that my right side engine mount is collapsed so that will have to be replaced too. And, my right side hub is very loose in int housing. Is that normal or should I be doing wheel bearings too?
More unbolting today.
I was advised to remove the tie rod ends so I could free up the adjusters as I will need an alignment when I'm done.
So I did, then sprayed it with PB Blaster.
This is where it bolts to the rack. Interesting arrangement.
I took a gearbox mount off to change it but it looked new so I bolted it back on and crossed it off my list.
Have an exhaust leak from here. Had to cut the bolts with a hacksaw blade. Going to need a new donut.
Drained the coolant and flushed the system.
Removed the heater valve as I have constant heat. Seems to close though. I think I will replace it anyway.
Monday I shop for parts and do my taxes.
Disassembled both front struts today. Wasn't too hard.
The only problem is the free Bilsteins I have aren't going to fit. They are off a later model. So, I need some inserts. Koni or Bilstein. Can't seem to find them in stock anywhere. Anyone have any sitting around?
Need quite a few parts before I can put this thing back together. namely:
Blue upper mounts
Dampers, Koni preferred
Front 86-2086 sport 2-6 weeks
Rear 86-2087 sport in stock at Koni
Front Strut bellows
coolant G12 or regular green stuff?
Koni inserts are on their way from a fellow URQ owner. Thanks Martin. I've found nice German top mounts and wheel bearings and most of the other parts I need. Still looking for the anti roll bar bushings and I'm not sure if I want to spend over $200 on an OE ball joint.
Took my struts and control arms to see my Freind Mat at MCE Tuning. He pressed out the wheel bearings for me no problem.
Then cleaned up the wheel bearing housings so the new bearings will go in nicely.
Next I start working on getting the control arm bushings out.
I got the rear struts apart yesterday. They were not as bad as I thought. I held the nut in a vice, applied heat and hit the steering arm with a hammer till it came loose.
People have suggested powder coating all the suspension components while they are off the car. I have been reluctant to do this as I am trying to not restore the car but maintain its originality. However, looking at the surface rust on the rear struts I feel I must at least POR15 the springs, rear struts and top hats just to preserve them.
With that in mind I degreased them with Marine Clean yesterday after removing loose rust with a wire brush.
Today, if I get chance, I will prep them and paint them with POR15 black.
Started the POR15 rust inhibition project today. Prepped with POR prep stuff.
First coat of POR15 applied. Of course I managed to get some on my hands and face.
Huge parts haul today. Coolant, front wheel bearings, top mounts, handbrake cables. Control arm bushings etc.
I think I may be starting put the car back together. After installing the new heater control valve I added coolant and put the steeringarms back in the car today.
After that I dropped off the control arms and bushings at a friend's so he can attack them with his new press.
Have a good weekend.
I started to re-assemble the front struts this afternoon. Pressed in the wheel bearings.
Pressed the hub on and inserted the Koni inserts.
Need to decide on settings before I install the springs. Currently on 2 out of 5. Anyone know where these go?
The POR15 was a bit glossy so I went over the top hats and springs with some flat black.
I also re-installed the control arms and new right side ball joint. If I get chance tomorrow I'll install the springs then put the front struts back on the car!
Semi productive day today. I was hoping to have the car back on its wheels, maybe even driving but alas, I was thwarted by a wrong part. Seems I have a ball joint for a 4000 instead. Bugger!
Still, I got all four struts assembled and the Konis set. I went with 1 turn on the fronts, 1.5 in the rear. If I don't like it they are easy to adjust.....NOT!
Installed all but the right front strut on the car. Even that is technically on the car. Just hanging from the upper mount for now. I ordered a TSW ball joint from Rock Auto as a back up. OE versions are very pricey. Tomorrow I will search locally for a decent one. If I can't find one I'll wait for the TSW one. That's what's already on the left side anyway.
Hopefully, if I get time tomorrow I'll drop the rear on the ground and tighten all the bolts, put the rear seats back in and maybe, if I can find some, replace the blown rear speakers. I guess I could also drop and tighten the front left too. I can also install the new catalytic converter gasket and cinch that up so I can start the engine and burp the coolant. Then an alignment and we drive it. Damn, wish I had a ball joint.
Looks like a car again. At least this side does.
This side's still missing a leg!
So, thirty years ago a small, select group of Audi engineers sat down together to eat pizza and hatch a cunning plan. "I know..." proffers one
particularly sneaky engineer "...... let's build a 4wd turbo car that looks just like the Coupe GT but uses non of its parts. NONE. This will really
mess with their heads in about thirty years time. HAH!"
See, it wasn't about rally at all. It was just a German practical joke!
It's funny what you'll do while your waiting for parts. I decided to have a look at the aftermarket speakers on the rear parcel shelf. They are ugly and sound really tinny.
Oh my! How do we improve on this situation? What is the OE configuration like? Anyone have an original parcel shelf? With speakers?
I tried some other speakers in there but they were too bg and still sounded tinny. Maybe my acoustic issue lies somewhere else.
Still no sign of another (probably wrong) balljoint so I decided to pull out the passenger seat. Why? Severe case of wobble-bottom due to suspected worn slider bushings. BTW easiest seat extraction ever!
Or non existent slider bushings.
Oh, here it is. Hiding in the slider rail. Yuk.
and here's the new ones I surreptitiously picked up off eBay. Yes, I did buy two sets but the driver's seat is not so bad just yet. maybe, when my wrong balljoint gets here I will decide it is aweful and swap them too.
Here, that's better.
Then, really desperate, I downloaded this to play through my new OE stereo.
I wanna go for a drive
Look what Postman Pat brought me yesterday.
It fits too!
OK, I know, it's not OE and will probably wear out in about 10,000 miles but it's a tenth of the price!
So here it is, finally, back on all fours.
So i fired up the quattro and backed it out to get it up to temperature. I needed to burp the cooling system and test my new heater valve. Heater valve works but still runs a little warm at full cold. It is not closing fully though it did on the bench. I think a small cable adjustment should take care of things.
Then I took it out for a test drive. I must say the Kraftwerk worked perfectly. Exactly as described. New suspension's not bad either. Initially the new dampers seemed crashy over small bumps but soon settled down. I was a little surprised that the dampers did not feel stiffer as I set them around half their range. I couldn't really get on it though as the front anti roll bar is still off and I only have an eyeball alignment. I'm sure I'm going to be very happy with it once it's aligned and fully together next week.
I put the old speakers back in place but didn't reconnect them. The front are fine for now. Would love to get a replacement parcel shelf and original speakers though. Anyone?
I also installed the new cat gasket/donut but I think it's still blowing a bit
So I'm done for now. There's quite a few things on my original hit list that I didn't do yet and a few new ones but it's time to drive this thing.
I took the car down to Auto Europe for an alignment Tuesday.
My eyeballed alignment was way off as you might imagine but Charles whipped it back into shape.
So i've only put a few dozen miles on the car and the front anti-roll bar is missing but this beast has been transformed. No more boings and rattles from the loos suspension, goes where you point it and is very responsive. Just rolls a bit in corners as you might imagine. So everything is good. Not quite..........radiator started leaking yesterday. just a little froom the top seam:
and maybe the core. Can this be fixed, perhaps in situ? I don't want a new radiator as I love the look of the aged brass top.
I also have a small leak now from the power steering regulator but haven't yet isolated the source.
It never raiins but it pours (or weeps) with these cars.
Quick radiator removal. This should be easy right?
It has more hoses going to it than my heart has arteries.
Finally got it disconnected and out of the car.
Uh, oh! Where's the isolator mount? Is this replaceable?
Off to the radiator shop for a re-core. Hopefully they can use the end tanks and side brackets.
Finally found a replacement for that decomposing breather hose.
OE exhaust bolts. How concientious is that?
Can't wait to get the radiator back for the shop and start driving this thing.
Recored UR Quattro radiator. I asked them not to paint it but now have to decide what to do to it. I was hoping to retain the original look with some of the black paint still on the top with the aged brass showing through but it rather got cleaned off in the process. Do I need to paint the core or can I leave the whole thing raw?
So I decided not to paint anything, just threw it back into the car and drove it to the local track event by way of a shakedown. I hope everyone's cool with that.
Next on the list is to figure out why my washers don't work anymore. Low flow, just dribbles out. I also need to get the anti roll bar back on, detail it and rebalance the wheels. Then, hopefully, I can enjoy the car for a few months, so long as the clutch lasts. It feels awefully high on the pedal lately.
Well, looks like I haven't updated this thread for a while. I'm going to use the excuse that I have been driving the car instead of working on it. Who'd have thought?
I did finally get the anti roll bar back on. Had to order parts from the UK. I couldn't find OE bushings so had to settle for upgraded poly versions. I'm sure they are better but are a bit blue.
I also had to buy a pair of anti roll bar endlinks with bushings from the UK to replace the one I broke during disassembly. The very fist nut I tried to remove during the suspension rebuild.
I did put the original wheels back on for the summer
so my friend Tim could put them on his as he was headed to Pike's Peak.
Not a bad bit of exposure for the brand.
I managed to snag a replacement clutch in case mine gives out on me soon. It does feel quite high on the pedal now but is not slipping.
So with the car pretty much back together I have enjoyed driving it around for a few uneventful months and parking it next to other interesting vehicles (apparantly).
I didn't park it next to these two beauties but I did get to see them in Europe, and about eight others just like them. Yes, they are real, unlike Tim's replica above. I even touched them!
So next on the agenda is to fix the washers as they are quite lame and this one leak.
OE gasket came in today. $3! must be the cheapest quattro fix ever.
Hopefully the car will stay together till winter when I think we may be putting a clutch in it. How hard could that be?
I think my BRAID Serie 6 RC wheels look much better on my mate Tim's car than mine.
So i'm thinking of getting some Serie 4 RC instead.
What do you think?
Here's another option. I could get BRAID to make some 9x15 RONAL replicas like these:
Of course they'd have to make more than one set. Anyone else interested?
OK, it's a GO. I'm getting some 15x9 Ronals!
We have teamed up with HANSPORT http://www.hansport.co.uk/index.php= in the UK and BRAID Wheels Braid Wheels in Barcelona to offer classic Audi replica rally wheels in the original specs starting with the 15x9 Ronal originally used on the Sport quattro.
These wheels will be heat treated cast aluminium, 15x9, ET12, 5x112 with a 57.1 center bore, white powder coat finish. Other colours will be available at extra cost.
These wheels will be sold exclusively through Hansport. Team Illuminata Motorsport, through our subsidiary BRAID USA will manage the project. Price is not yet set but expected to be around £500/$800/620€ each. Available as a minimum order of four wheels with no maximum. Delivered anywhere in the world. 50% deposit due with order, balance before delivery.
The main thread for this project will be Alloy wheel Manufacture could be back on the cards | quattroforum. Please post any questions and orders there or contact Hansport or myself direct.
BRAID have been making high quality, competition wheels in Europe since 1978. They offer a full range of competition wheels for all forms of motorsport and classic cars. BRAID wheels are specifically designed for competition but, of course, are equally at home on the street. Many of BRAID's are cast from lightweight aluminum and heat treated for maximum strength. Others use forged or flowcast technology. BRAID already produce many ultra-high quality replica wheels for customers including Porsche 911 Fuchs, Ferrari F40 and Lancia 037.
Hansport was founded by John Hanlon in 1996 to restore, prepare and provide on-event support for an ever increasing personal collection of historic competition cars. The HanSport Team combines the talents of engineers who insist upon excellence, have a true understanding and passion for motorsport, together with it's history. Over the years, HanSport have prepared cars which have subsequently been piloted by many World Championship Winning drivers, such as Hannu Mikkola, Michèle Mouton, Stig Blomqvist, Jimmy McRae and Harald Demuth; to name just a few. HanSport currently own the largest collection of factory Group B Audis in the world and are based in Manchester, England; my home town.
Finally got the car out now all the salt has washed off the roads.
So, I drove all three of these today, not at the same time, and, after pondering over a cup of tea I think I have concluded that, at least on the street, I prefer to drive the Quattro!
Here're a couple pictures of the meet we took the cars too:
The Quattro has been running like a champ so not much to report. That and the fact that I am currently obsessed with our 911 RallyCross project means that all I have are pictures. Still; PICTURES.
I have a Cars and Coffee thing tomorrow. Maybe something will break so I'll have more interesting posts next week.
Have a great weekend.
Here's an excellent video Winding Road Magazine's Chris Amos made of our UR Quattro.
Unfortunately I think this was about the last time the car would idle. Doesn't seem to matter if it's cold or warm, just dies, but not all at once. It takes a few seconds then it will start right up again. I can keep it running with my foot but once I let off it splutters to a halt. I think this as been coming on all year. In the spring it would die when cold if left it running a few minutes to warm up. I tweaked the throttle stop screw as a temporary fix but I think it might be time to get greasy.
I took the plugs out and cleaned them but that didn't help.
I took the cold idle valve off the back of the head and sprayed some brake cleaner through it. Also tested it's operation with 12V. Closed up after about a minute. Put it back on but no different.
Took off the alien's head and checked the position of the air sensor plate. Seemed fine. Cleaned out what little dirt there was inside.
Pulled a couple of injectors, maybe three. At least one has a bad seal. Not replaced them yet. Is it easy? Could this cause bad idle?
I have been reading up on the K-Jetronic fuel injection. It seems quite straightforward but lots of vacuum hoses and other components. I'm thinking of just refurbishing the whole thing. That feels like a winter project so for now I'd just like to get it running some so I can drive it a few times before we run out of season.
After ordering some new (correct) spark plugs and injector seals I brought the car into the main shop and started a concerted poking around to try to figure out why it wont idle. You'd think this might have something to do with it. air temperature sensor.
I removed the throttle body and cleaned it out paying particular attention to the air bypass screw which I think allows it to idle.
I made some interesting observations:
There's a hole in the throttle plate.
The air bypass screw was fully closed
The arm that actuates the idle and full throttle micro switches was loose. Wouldn't operate the full throttle switch at all. I peened it firm with a small hammer.
Both switches appear to function as intended and are wired correctly.
I put it all back together but it didn't make any difference to the idle, even after backing out the air bypass screw a full turn
I had a little time yesterday so I pulled the injectors with a view to installing new seals. Here is what I found:
I was surprised only #2 was really torn up though the rest look quite done. Of course the most alarming discovery was on #4 which is missing a tip! Looking at it it may have been off for some time but where is it and how long is any bodies guess. If it fell off into he intake port it can't be good right? Could it get past a valve into a cylinder. Out again and into the turbo? Pass right through without doing any harm?
I did install new seals and, perhaps foolishly started it up to see if they made a difference. I hoped it was safe based on how aged the area where the tip had been looked. It still didn't idle and I don't think it made any strange noises.
So I had another look at the odd injector over the weekend and it turns out to have the same part number as the other four: 0 437 502 041. All the pictures I find of it show an end cap (air shroud) so now I think I must have one floating around in my intake or stuck at the end of the inject insert. I don't think it's in the insert as that one injector has quite a lot of lateral play when inserted so is at least not locating in the cap.
So now I feel I should take the intake manifold off or the head or even the engine out. I f I take the engine out I could also fix a lot of leaks, replace engine mounts, clutch etc. Maybe I can even get it to idle again!
What do you think?
Back from Europe and inspired to get the Quattro running again.
Before I went away I had my Friend Werner look over the engine and we agreed the best course of action was to totally refurbish the CIS system as it has been messed with over the years, is not as Audi intended and looks to have some very dodgy vacuum lines. We thought the best approach was to remove the engine to do this as I also want to take the head off to find the bits of missing injector and replace the clutch. But first, and today I did a compressions test:
At least I now know the head is coming off. Hopefully the problem is with the valves on #1 as I have a refurbished head already. Just over 100,000 miles on the block so that should be OK.
I found specs online that suggest stock compression should be from 100-130psi so the rest of the cylinders look pretty good.
So here we go with the next big project. Hopefully it wont take too long as I'd like to drive the car this season. Here is the scope and issues I hope to resolve in the process:
*starting and idling issues
*cat joint leak
*Drive line shunt
*Timing belt cover missing
*Cracked exhaust manifold?
*Plastic pipe broken engine bay
*spark plug wires wrong
*Fuel pipe orientation wrong
Wish me luck.
And so it begins. Spent the afternoon draining fluids, removing the radiator and disconnecting about a thousand wires and vacuum hoses. Tomorrow I'll start disconnecting the same around the transmission.
Engine and transmission could be out Tuesday!
I don't know what it is about this car but I'm already missing two nuts, a bolt and the accelerator cable clip. When you drop Audi fasteners on the floor they make one sound then evaporate!
and it's out.
That was tight. Going to be fun getting it back in. Wish I'd known this was still attached. Would have been a whole lot easier. DOH!
Right side engine mount fell apart.
SO next is remove sub-frame, split engine and box, Asses all the leaks, clean, remove head. That will be next week as I'm busy over the weekend.
Some progress today. I removed the subframe and dragged it to one side of the shop:
Was going to split the block and transmission next but was thwarted by one wastegate bracket nut so decided to remove the intake and exhaust plumbing first.
Discovered a few issues of course. One is that almost every fastener I have removed so far seemed very loose. Is this normal? Also these:
Broken connector on the diff lock actuator:
If I get time tomorrow I'll split the block and trans
They're under starter's orders......
Not too bad
Clutch slave cylinder off. Replace?
Borrowed this to test fit. Will it fit?
Today I might get to power-wash everything and take off the clutch.
Quite a bit of progress these past few days. I think this is the furthest this car has been from being drivable since before it was made!
Got the clutch off. What do you think?
Doesn't look that worn.
Bought some supplies and cleaned the sub-frame and box.
Got the flywheel off and mounted it on the engine stand.
Next, off with it's head!
Got the head off. No problem with any fasteners or anything. Took me a while to figure out hoe to slacken the timing belt though. Never seen that before.
Here are some shots of the pistons and valves:
And the valves:
I filled the head with gasoline but couldn't see any leaking past the valves.
So yesterday I did as suggested: flipped the head, filled the combustion chambers with gasoline and aimed compressed air at the valve seats from below. Results can be seen in this video.
As you can see, almost every cylinder has an issue. The worst is #1 though which is the one with bad compression. I think we'll be putting the new head on when we put this back all together.
I also did a similar thing with the piston rings. No compressed air though. I just poured some fuel into each to see if it leaked by fairly quickly. I have no benchmark for this test but in my opinion they leaked down very, very slowly. I'm thinking the pistons are OK but I need a better way to prove this before reassembly.
One thing I'm not sure about, how to remove the large pulley on the front also seems to be called "vibration damper". Big central nut or four Allen screws or all five? Any suggestion for stopping the crank rotating?
This is scary.
How about locking the crank off the flywheel, like this?
The four Allen screws actually came out very easily.
So an air impact gun should free the center bolt up then? But I'll still need the tool to torque it back up when it's in the car?
Took the oil pan off yesterday. All the screws were very loose. That's been a feature of this project so far. Hope it extends to the crank bolt. Some screws were even missing!
While it will be nice to check the bottom end out the main reason for taking off the oil pan was to wedge the crank in preparation for the dreaded crank bolt extraction.
So I tooled up and crossed my fingers.
I needn't have worried. Came off like butter.
It certainly wasn't loose but I doubt it was fully torqued.
So, relieved, I put the kettle on for a well earned brew and then dug through my boxes of spares and pulled the reconditioned head I bought earlier in the year to see if it matched the old one.
Slightly different part numbers:
What's this tube sticking out of the side for?
Different boss arrangement on the left side. Problem?
And the cam lobes look smaller in the refurb head.
Shall I use this one of fix the old one?
I disassembled the turbo, manifold, down pipe and waste gate over the weekend. It put up a bit of a fight but nothing a bit of heat and an impact gun couldn't handle.
The manifold is cracked. Need to decide whether to repair it or install the later Audi "fix" manifold.
There is a little play in the turbo bearings so I think I should have it rebuilt. Any recommendations for a rebuilder?
Should I rebuild the waste gate too? I've been told they wear over time and bleed off boost.
Progress is slow. Please stop ordering wheels so I can work on this car more LOL. Oh, I meant "Please order more wheels so I can afford parts for this car".
Today is brought to you by the letter Oil Pump.
and Cleaning pistons. I used gasoline and a soft wire brush. A lot of grease from my elbows helped too.
I went through my parts stash over the weekend. It's amazing what I have. Am I missing anything though?
So I'm ready to start putting this engine back together but I'm still not 100% convinced my refurbished head is correct for the WX engine. Are the 38mm intake valves and slightly smaller cam lobes stock for the WX?
Of course I will need a head gasket and apparently new head bolts for this job. I assume these should all be OE right? Any suggestions where to buy (USA preferably). I'll obviously need a few other seals and gaskets but I might have them in my parts stash already. If you noticed anything that wasn't pictured above let me know.
Time to turn the corner on this project.
Oops, sorry. I forgot to post these two pictures. First one shows the oil and coolant passages on both heads, To me they seem identical.
I'm a bit concerned about how some of the oil and coolant passages were seemingly blocked (red) or partially blocked (yellow) by the old head gasket. Is this normal?
It looks like my refurbished head has hydraulic valves after all so it was decided to refurbish the head that came off. To that end I ripped into it. Not sure it's going to work out though.
Can it be salvaged?
So I've been thinking about using this hydraulic lifter head in place of the mechanical lifter head and what might happen. The way I see it everything needed to make the hydraulic head function should be contained within the head especially as it is exactly the same physical shape as the old head. It should bolt right up. The only thing it needs to function is oil pressure to operate the tappets but almost everything else in there needs oil too. There's going to be oil regardless. So then it occurred to me that this oil may get to the tappets via an oil passageway that was blocked off by the mechanical head's gasket and if I just use the same configuration gasket I could be blocking off that oil supply that it will now need. So I thought, if I place the head on some paper towels and squirt a little brake cleaner down the oil feed hole for each tappet I will be able to see which passage way through the gasket it flows through, right? I'll try it today if I get to the shop.
Now for some progress because there has to be progress, no matter how small. It's important. As it looks like this project is going to take waaaaay longer than I'd hoped I thought it wise to at least free up the hoist by bolting the sub-frame back on. Should be easy to push without an engine and transmission but impossible without a sub-frame.
More head research. I wanted to make sure the rebuilt head would get it's required oil feed if I just bolted it on to the block to I back-fed brake cleaner through a few of the lifter oil supply holes and guess what? It feeds through an existing port which is common to the cam bearings. Therefore it should get the oil feed it needs, right?
Now I just need a gasket and bolts. I checked the head thickness by the way: same as my old head.
I also acquired a third head for the sake of research. This was bought by a friend for use on a "10 valve turbo" engine but of unknown origin. He had it rebuilt but it doesn't have a cam. Intake valves are 38mm for what it's worth.
The part number (casting number) and in fact the head itself are exactly the same as my rebuilt head. Researching the part/casting number produced a few hits suggesting it belongs to an Audi 5000 turbo. Interesting no?
So I think I'm ready to commit my rebuilt head to the block. I guess I should check that first though eh?
Sorry about the lack of updates. Been busy with domestic stuff and wheel sales. I did manage to cobble together a list of parts. Some of the part numbers might be right.
If you have any of these or any correction or even something I've missed please let me know.
I've ordered around $1000 of parts from Jeff at Sunset Porsche-Audi and ECS but I'm missing a few hard to find NLA type pars. Perhaps you can help?
clutch slave cylinder 1
hall sender 1035905065a
intake manifold bolt 1N0147112
subframe bushings rear 2857199419B
Anyone have any of these or a source let me know. Keen to slap this thing back together.
Uh oh, parts list just got bigger due to ECS's overly ambitious inventory system.
clutch slave cylinder 1
hall sender 1 035905065a
*intake manifold bolt 1 N0147112
subframe bushings rear 2 857199419B
*cam belt cover rear 1035109143
*head gasket 1035 103 383 J
* lower cam belt cover 1069109110
Parts marked * are going to hold me up
Anybody have any ideas?
Parts are starting to show up now. Going to be out of excuses soon.
Unfortunately I think these injector holders and the one injector are going to be wrong for this head.
But all this stuff is going to be appropriate.
Uh oh. One these things is not like the other.
The old engine mount on the left is 431199381N. The new one I ordered is 431199381J
Which one should I be using?
I may be back on Quattro duty! The brief disruption to service was caused by us taking on more space and building a new home for the cars. There's space for a red Quattro too:
That done I got stuck into the Quattro this week. Cleaned up the injector holders, added new seals and reinstalled the cam. Whatever next?
Rigged up idler pulley puller. Very effective.
Installed new seal and pulley and reinstalled the oil pump.
I couldn't find any marks to line up right now so this is a close to #1 at TDC as I could eyeball:
and with #1 valves all closed that should be close enough for now right? Head is on but not torqued down yet.
Missing some parts so will have to work on other aspects of the project over the holiday. Is it true it's best to use TWO crankshaft seal cover gaskets to move the lip of the seal out of the old wear groove?
I've been thinking about how to set valve timing on this engine. The manual says to align the mark on the flywheel with the indicator on the bell housing and the mark on the camshaft pulley with the top of the head. I really don't want to have to install the gearbox before I can set timing; is there another way? There is also mention of setting the mark on the crankshaft pulley with a boss on the oil pump but I have read this can be unreliable. Does anyone know the number of teeth on the belt between the two marks once the cam belt is on?
One more question: does the black seal go on the plastic or on the brass?
I did make some progress this weekend but got distracted by some bright and shiny things that turned up:
Once that bit of fun was over I started to refurbish the engine's tin ware. Degreased, wire brushed and treated with rust eater:
Tomorrow I'll source some POR15 and finish them in black.
Made a little progress today but before we get to that a little housekeeping: I have been hosting most of my pictures on Facebook for this thread but I've recently noticed that they a not loading. It seems that they are still on my Facebook page but the urls have changed! There is no way I can go back and re-link them all so if you want to see them try my Snapfish account instead.
Now then, back to the business in hand. I torqued down the head bolts today. Boy, what a lot of effort. I hate torqueing head bolts. I always expect one to strip but they never have, yet. No pics; it looked just the same afterwards, sorry. I did paint the tinware though. Used Rustoleum instead of POR15. Way cheaper and probably fine for this application.
Tomorrow, if time permits, I will try to get this and the timing belt on. Or maybe the oil pan, or perhaps the valve cover. Something will get bolted to something.
So, true to my word, I did bolt some things to other things today. Got the cam belt cover on. I would say "back on" but the engine didn't have one before!
and the cam pulley, crank pulley and cam belt.
and the valve cover
and even the oil pick up tube!
However, I'm not sure the timing is right yet so everything is still loose. What do you think, close enough:
I'm thinking maybe 1 tooth off on the cam end. Will it still turn safely one tooth out?
Got some new engine mounts yesterday. These should do the trick.
Bolted the oil pan on. Had to replace a few missing screw!
Then bolted some things onto the left side
and then to the right side
I'm going to try to make one of these heat shields because I can't find one anywhere. Does anyone know what color they were painted?
Last thing today I moved the car off the hoist and staged it in our showroom. The 911 that was there needs transmission work and has to be running soon so it's time to switch focus. I do intend getting the intake and exhaust mounted and mating up the transmissionfirst though. If nothing else just to make some room in the shop. Cars in bits seem to take up a lot of space.
Much progress today:
Painted the heat shield and installed it. Yep, went with silver for more heat reflectance.
Replaced the seals in the transmission while the paint was drying.
Installed the exhaust manifold and turbo.
and the down pipe.
I tried to install the waste gate but I'm going to need new studs. They don't semm to have part numbers though. How do I order them?
I had a very productive afternoon then suffered what may or may not be a major setback. Read on.
I installed the intake manifold.
Then was installing the chains to lift it off the engine stand when it suddenly spun over and knocked off the down pipe!
As you might imagine I was quite devastated but upon inspection I think I may be alight. There's a slip fit and a weld just after the turbo which is where it broke. I think I can get it welded back together. The orientation is critical though so I left the rest of it bolted to the turbo. I'm going to wait till I get the hardware for the wastgate, dry fit it all then mark the orientation before having someone weld it up. Hopefully.
I had a cup of tea then carried on. Installed the flywheel next
then the clutch
followed by the clutch release bearing
Fortunately I got my chain lengths just right so they lined up pretty well.
and slid together without much of a fight.
I checked the timing marks and it was spot on
so put the timing cover on for the first time since I have owned the car.
So, I have now bolted together as many parts as I could and so I'm going to take a break for a few weeks while I fix the transmissionin my 911. More broken German stuff!
OK, so a few weeks turned into a few months. It happens. Would really like to drive it this summer so cracking on. Today replacing the prop shaft seal.
Once this is back together this is all that's left on my list:
15Rear trans seal
16Refurb power steering system
18Clean engine bay
19Replace brake line
20Refurb strut tops
21Fix down pipe
22Install waste gate
25Install engine, trans, sub frame
Piece of cake.
Replacing the diff lock actuator today I managed to brake the clip that attaches it to the actuator rod. NLA but ECS say they have one. We will see.
I'm thinking the next phase should be to refurbish the hydraulic system before I pt the engine back in. It powers the steering and brakes and seems to be wet in its entirety. What is typically replaced. Should I refurbish the steering rack too?
I was going to replace the rear brake line yesterday then this happened.
So I said F-it and went to the track instead. I did come back later and straightened my spool of exotic Audi brake line.
Need to make it look like this somehow:
I guess i'm going to need some new tools; and a new tool box.
Heavily invested in brake line tools now. Worked though. I just need some more brake projects to justify the investment.
I started at the master cylinder end and taped the new line to the old line as I went. The flare went well but I couldn't get the first bend as close to the fitting as the factory but it looks OE enough in my opinion.
I'm glad I replaced the rear brake line as it fell apart after it saw it's replacement and cried tears of brake fluid.
To my surprise it actually fir very well. I mean, it should right considering it was virtually a copy of the original. Things like this generally do not go this well for me though. I had to replace a few clips with new unfortunately.
Me bleedin' bleed nipples are bleedin' rusted to buggery in the rear and as I replaced the rear brake line I now have to bleed the buggers! #URQuattroFun
Later; I need a break from brakes. Next up: Transmission linkage stabilizer which is NLA, of course and then the hydraulic system.
Time to address the shift link stabilizer. Number 35 in this diagram. The plastic sockets on the ends wear and it is NLA (No Longer Available).
Mines a little loose so let's build a new one.
Now it's NPA (NO Problem Anymore)
Decided to take out the steering rack, hydraulic pump, accumalator and reservoir en masse. Seems as if every bit of it is leaking.
At brake master cylinder
My apologies, it's been a while since I have updated this thread and that's because it's been a while since I worked on the car. My wife's A3 booted the Quattro off the hoist a while back and I've since been too busy with the parts business to get it back on. Well that change this weekend when I found the hoist vacant along with my schedule. So on it went, again.
I am waiting for a friend to figure out how to replace the hydraulic hoses while using the original fittings so I thought I'd tackle bleeding the brakes which, of course required freeing up the rusted bleed nipples in the calipers. Well I only broke two off, left front and left rear!
How do I fix these? I imagine it involves removing the calipers which I managed quite easily on the left front but the left rear is fighting me. I managed to unhook the handbrake cable from the lever but the outer sheath looks like it's fused to the caliper in it's seat.
I'm also struggling to get the brake union on the inner fender separated.
I left them soaking in PB Blast overnight. Think that will work?
More progress but nothing picture worthy, sorry. I managed to free up both the handbrake cable and the brake line union yesterday but was less successful with the brake calipers. Unless you count that I was able to remove the rear caliper and place it on the bench that is.
So I cut a slit in the front caliper's bleed screw, or at least what was left of it. The stub was protruding about 4mm so there was quite a bit to work with. I had hit it with PB Blaster again when I got there so that had had an hour to soak in. I heated it as much as I could with a propane torch then with CFC Freeze Off and then heated again. I then hit it with my impact screwdriver and guess what? No, it didn't come right out; it broke right off flush with the caliper
Needless to say I didn't move on to the rear caliper.
So what's next, drilling it out and re-tapping, reverse drilling? New car?
I found a few hours to work on the car today. I basically pulled off more parts. Gotta start installing parts.
Tried EasyOut on one of the seized bleeders. FAIL
So turned my attention to the CIS injection system because you can never have enough parts on the floor.
Then started thinking about getting the downpipe welded back together. If you remember it separated after the engine stand let go and allowed the engine to rotate! This meant reassembling everything on the engine so I could mark the orientation which might be important.
SUCCESS! Las night, with a lot of help from my mein Freund Werner and some Rojo Red lubrication we drilled out the seized bleeder screws from the brake calipers.
We first established a pilot hole all the way through the bottom of the bleeder then chased that with a tap drill being carful to stop once we reached the end of the threads.
Because the tip of the bleeder was smaller than the tap drill it was left loose in the bottom of the hole and after cleaning out the threads was easily extracted.
Obviously a lot of debris found it's way into the piston chamber, especially as we cleaned out the other threads too, so we dismantled them with a view to giving them a thorough cleaning and any needed replacement parts. Right now they look to be in good condition though so I'll probably just reassemble them.
While waiting for parts to come in I decided it might be a good idea to take inventory of all the spare parts I already have and make a list. This was prompted by the realization that I have recently ordered parts that I already have in my collection of parts bins! Let the list making begin.
New parts: (yes, we sell Corbaeu seats)
Take offs (used to be on the car)
Turns out I have a lot of spare parts, 129 separate items if I include take offs and lumping together most of the removed AC stuff. I tried to figure out part numbers for everything and got pretty close. I did discover that about a dozen parts I inherited from the PPO (previous previous owner) aren't actually for a UR Quattro so that was good to know.
Finally got my Unicorn clips from Germany. AKA actuator clips. I only need one but got a few spares.
All the bits needed to make the center diff actuate.
I checked the timing again. The cam pulley and bell housing seem to me to be as you described. I forgot to check the tab on the oil pump housing but the mark on the crank pulley lines up with the pip on the cam belt cover. Pics are not the best, soz.
Popped the waste gate back on the other day. Doesn't seem to use a gasket!
Then this arrived. Can you guess what it is?
Repaired down pipe curtesy of Thompson Racing Fabrication (TRF)
I don't know much about welding but it can't be easy to weld stainless steel to cast iron. Apparently Audi didn't do a good job the first time.
I'm not installing it yet as the engine will want to lean on it while it's sitting on the dolly.
I did remove the leaking coolant reservoir though Yep, the more parts I install the more I remove. Even with the engine out Audi found a way to make it difficult to remove. This is leaking from the seam around the top. Any ideas about repairing it or does it have to be replaced. Can it be replaced?
I took the subframe back out so I could clean off thirty years of oil and grime from the engine bay with a toothbrush and some degreaser.
The photos really don't show the difference but it is quite a transformation. Before:
Inspired by the clean engine bay I thought I'd go parts shopping. First thing to show up was this new hall sensor for the distributor. The old one broke the connector off during engine extraction but was marginal anyway. This one is meant for a Ford but seems to be a match. Not ready to disassemble the distributor right now though.
I managed to find a used coolant reservoir locally. This is after I cleaned it out. It is a slightly different shape on top but has the same part number. At least it's not in-your-face-shiny-new looking.
I thought it might be an idea to pressure test it so enlisted my bike pump. Gave it 22psi and a bath. No bubbles and it held that pressure overnight. I guess we pressure tested the pump too.
I sent off the steering rack for a refresh to Jorgen Automotive. They seem to be the authority in these matters and are only 45 minutes west of me. Sent it Monday, got it back Wednesady! Amazing turnaround. I specifically asked them not to bead blast the body as I wanted to retain the patina. Normally they would be like new when they are done.
I also sent out the turbo for rebuild but that won't be back till next week at the earliest.
Not sure what to tackle next. Might refurbish the wiper mechanism as it's slow and I can stand in the engine bay to work on it. I could open up troubleshooting the CIS system but that's probably too a big job for my current schedule, or I could add some relays to the headlights as they are a lot more accessible with the engine out. Damn, everything is a lot more accessible with the engine out on this thing.
I took the wiper mechanism out of the car today because it was running slow. Typical of this car: you can see it, can remove the bolts but have to jiggle the crap out of it to extract it! Will be fun putting it back.
The theory is that the spindle bearings and joints seize up over time. I sprayed the joints with grease and greased the pivots. I couldn't say that they were seized but I believe they are now free-er at least.
Another theory is that the gear lube gets old and dry but I have to drill out rivets to get inside. Not sure about that yet.
I then installed the replacement coolant reservoir.
I reassembled the wiper mechanism today and put it back in the car. Seems to work.
As I had to remove a couple of relays to make enough room I cleaned the fuse box and coated all the relay contacts with dielectric grease.
Inspired by my electrical prowess I might tackle adding relays to the headlights tomorrow. I seem to remember reading about a simple plug and play kit that was available. Anyone have a source?
Oops, seems like tomorrow turned into two months. Sorry about that. Got a little distracted by wheel sales, 911 mods and this:
An 83 that looks like it wants to be a rally replica build. I'll post a link to it's buid thread once we get stuck in. But first we have to finish this one right?
So what did we do lately in that regard? Well, we received our rebuilt turbo. Like with the steering rack we asked them not to bead blast the housings.
Then we tackled replacing the Hall sensor on the distributor as ours had brocken it's connector.
We did add the headlight relay kit we got from Germany but we haven't tested it yet so perhaps we'll address that in the next update. Hopefully not two months from now.
Happy New Year!
I didn't test the headlight relay kit today as I thought better of it. With so many wires detached from there things I didn't think it a good idea to introduce some live electrons. I did put back the lower console hiding the relays etc. and lubed the hood/bonnet pull handle so it no longer makes that awful noise.
What I next was take stock of what's left to do and what I need to do it. I'm actually close to the point where I will be stopped for lack of parts, some of them apparently hard to find. Here's what's still to do:
29Refurbish hydraulic system
31Refurbish front struts tops, bellows
32Install down pipe and turbo
36Attach sub-frame to transmission
37Torque crank bolt
38Clutch slave cylinder line
39Install engine, trans, sub frame
and what I'm still missing:
CIS vacuum lines and god knows what else
Hydraulic lines, being remade by a friend
clutch slave cylinder hose 1431721465 NLA
subframe bushings rear 2857199419Bdiscontinued
belt alternator 1055903137G 9.5x850
front brake line 2433837400A
any suggestions on where to get this stuff? Would prefer original Audi.
As I'm starting to run out of chronologically logical tasks I'm going to be jumping around a bit. First such worm hole leap: sub-frame bushings. Not all four though, just the front two. The rears are NLA and I haven't sourced an alternative yet. So here we go.....
Sleeve still in
More cut and pry
Succeed a bit then fail
After lots of back and forth and soul searching (as well as part searching) we made some part-ial progress:
CIS vacuum lines and god knows what else
I printed out four parts diagrams from vagpart.com and marched them up to the shop with the plan that I would go through each one and highlight (with a hiliter) everything that I wanted to replace. This would mostly be vacuum lines and clamps but there are quite a few different sizes and types so I wanted to make sure I got the right ones and didn't miss any. Well, guess what? I could barley even match the diagrams to my car! It's like the car and the diagrams are for two different cars, not even the same manufacturer. I found one common part; a bubble shaped vacuum bottle, and followed it's line back into the engine bay and at the first connector it departed from the parts diagram completely! We are going to have to rethink this approach. This is one of four vacuum line diagrams vs the real world.
Hydraulic lines, being remade by a friend
Still waiting on these. Might be a while.
I found they match a Porsche 944 part so ordered a pair from one of our customers: Pelican Parts. Will see next week if Porsche and Audi were on the same planet back in the 80s.
clutch slave cylinder hose 1431721465 NLA
I got close but quit. I found an ATE hose that matched but it proved to be a unicorn. Couldn't find one anywhere. Then I got a quote from our local fancy custom line shop for braided stainless made from my original fittings but baulked at the price ($140) and the lack of originality, then decided the original one was in good enough shape and installed it on the clutch cylinder.
subframe bushings rear 2857199419Bdiscontinued
A friend pointed out that I could used the Audi 80 M12 version with a 10mm sleeve so I went on a quest for those. They proved only marginally less rare than what I need so I orderded two proper ones from Audi Tradition. They have to be shipped to my friend in Germany and then to me so probably 2017 before I see them LOL
belt alternator 1055903137G 9.5x850
This can wait. I'm tired.
front brake line 2433837400A
Hours more research and all I could find were aftermarket braided stainless or some really inexspensive rubber ones from Centric. I've ordered both. The centric ones look like the real deal apart from not having the rubber dongles on though it does have two mounting grommets. The OE mounting grommet should slide off over the ends if one of these doesn't work but there's no way the big rubber dongles will. I have a few spares from our 83 so will cut one and see if it is possible to glue them back together over the Centric lines.
Finally got chance to install the rear subframe bushings. To be fair I did have to wait for them to come from Germany. I might havre to wait for another one now. Read on.........
Easily removed the old bushings and cleaned up the holes.
But my previous method of pressing them in failed
So got the press out but that didn't help
Now the bushing is all squished
It seems that a) these bushing won't squeeze into a hole the same diameter as the body and b) why did the front ones press in so easily?
This didn't help
But this did
Now I just need to order another one from Germany
It's been over a month since I updated this thread so, even though not much has happened I will document it anyway. Actually, looking at my Flickr album there's been quite a lot of little incremental progress
First off I received a new and spare bushing from Germany and wasted no time pressing the last one home. You just have to make sure it is being pressed true then squeeze with confidence, after first lubing the sh*t out of it.
Then I replace the front strut bellows which arrived the same day as the bushings. Incidentally these are for a Porsche 944! Same part though.
More bloody squeezing. GGRRR
Then I installed the turbo, manifold and down pipe.
Need to find a suitable hanger for here.
This stainless steel beauty from Vibrant should do the trick.
Next job is to attache the subframe then it's ready to go back in the engine bay. However, the engine bay is not yet ready to accept it as I still need to reinstall the steering rack and refurbish the CIS system. I may reuse the existing hydraulic lines as my supplier's are not in production yet and I want to be driving this in April.
I went through my parts bin to see what still needs to bolt on the engine before it goes back in the car. I was worried I might miss something and I was right. Found this heat shield
and a temperature sensor that goes in the back of the refurbished head but this plug won't come out and I'm afraid of rounding out the Allen socket. Worst case I have to drill it out and retap it but then the head would have to come off!
Tried this to no avail
So resorted the the impact gun which thankfully worked. I forget how effective they can be.
Then I celebrated by reinstalling the subframe.
Bought some inspiration over the weekend.
It inspired me to go on a spending spree. Ordered air box grommets/mounts and filter.
Oil can gasket
and about $300 worth of vacuum hose, clips and copper washers!
As I can now see light at the end of the tunnel I also turned the engine round on the hoist so it's ready to go in. A little optimistic perhaps?
I thought I'd check as many sensors as I could before popping the engine back in. Seems like a reasonable plan. There are like twenty separate temperature sensors on this engine! OK, there's six but still........
Fortunately Audi stamped the range or trigger point on them. Well, most of them.
I didn't check change over temperature. I just had hot water or no water but I think I proved they all do something so I'm going with that.
This one tested good too but didn't want to go home
Need to find a seal washer for this one. How hard could that be?
It's the little things that take the most time. I thought I hadn't made a lot of progress but when I looked at all the photos I've taken lately I realise I've done a lot of small things including spending hundreds of Dollars on tiny pipe clips, vacuum hose and aluminium sealing washers! But first...
I installed the ground cable after stripping the threads and fixing with a Helicoil
Then went to install the steering rack but found one of the bulkhead plugs (top one of the three) and previously been pierced and bunged up with some sort of putty!
So I had to source a new one. Thankfully they are still available as Audi still use them.
I realized it would be a lot easier to attach the hoses to the steering rack on the bench but how to determine the orientation so they line up later? It helps to have a 83 quattro project in the other bay to reference!
Then hooked up the steering column inside the footwell. I think I may have got the steering wheel 180 degrees off but it was always going to need re-clocking anyway.
I think the next job is to replace all the vacuum hoses and clips but maybe I can find something else to do.
Replacing the vacuum hoses and clips is a PITA so I found something else to do. I replaced the air box mounts.
Of course that didn't take very long so it was back to replacing vacuum hoses and clips. Step one, I think. Is to figure what hoses and clips to buy from Audi. Just look at the parts diagrams and the car and figure out what applies. How hard could it be? How about "Bloody impossible!"? OK, not that bad but quite a lot does not match my car. I think I'm going to order as much vacuum line and hose clips as I think I need and just start replacing what physically matches. Of course allof the shaped rubber hose are NLA.
The parts diagrams:
and the car:
This should be interesting.
In a moment of inspiration I found this on the underside of the hood. Doesn't help.
I marked up the parts of the diagrams that resemble my car and went for it.
The approach is going to be to reinstate everything that's missing in line with the parts diagrams, replace everything thats still there in line with the diagrams and just replace everything that's not in line with the diagrams with the best guess parts and assume it's right as it worked before.
Started with the vent flap as it was the most accessible and matches a diagram. The adjacent lines I tackled next do not match anything. It seems to help disconnecting them if you first cut the old tube along its length to free it from the fragile plastic connectors.
Et voila! Piece of cake.
Inspired by my success and the fact that I appear to only have purchased a fraction of what is needed I decided to tackle the charcoal canister. This appeared to want to be on the bench though so, not wanting to annoy it I obliged.
of course I'm missing the clamps so progress has halted, again.
More tubes, more clamps, more money, more time. The four rings of (old) Audi ownership.
Still, I think we are done with vacuum hoses
Charcoal canister is back on/in the car and replaced most of this:
The "S" shaped hose is NLA as is the little stubby that's actually a reducer, so I left those in place.
This section is all done too:
And I finally figured out the arrangement for the warm-up regulator after referring to and stealing some from my 83. Not sure why I didn't think of this before.
What shall we do next; put the engine back in maybe?
Decided to curb my enthusiasm and fix a few more things before impetuously throwing the engine back in. Someone had spliced in a new piece of wire at some point; quite poorly.
This, however, can wait. It sits on top of the intake which makes it easier to repair in situ.
Found we are missing the heat shield over the right engine mount; the one that had failed. Of course its No Longer Available.
This is what it looks like in the flesh; OK on Google.
The we had a great idea; let's steal the one off the 83 in the corner. It was impossible to see but we managed to removing the mounting hardware, surprisingly. Even more surprisingly we managed to extract it without having to remove anything else!
Then, even, even more surprisingly it looked like this!
Obviously a cobbled together facsimile. What is odd, beside the strange tube is the fact that what's left of the original is still encased within. Obviously not going to work on the 85. Off to Audi Tradition to get reamed again.
Waiting for parts (drums fingers on desk)
Decided to find some things we will need to do before the car is ready to fire up. Getting ahead so to speak. The hydraulic "bomb" mounts need replacing as the leaking oil has softened them up and they have started to split. Fortunately we bought some new ones a while back. A good time to replace them.
Fortunately the nuts weren't too rusty and didn't put up a fight. Sometimes leaky hydraulics has benefits.
Uh oh! this must have happened in storage DOH. Let's hope they bend back without breaking off. Perhaps we should order a new one anyway.
Old vs. new. A couple are still serviceable. We'll keep them for spares.
And back together.
And on the engine. Yes, it surprised us too. Well, we had to put it somewhere and the dodgy spade terminals we bent back into place will be safer here than back in the parts box. It shouldn't hinder engine installation and one more thing done
Another update in less than a week. You guys must be feeling rather special now eh?
Just trying to find things to do while those damn heat shields arrive from Germany. Rummaged through the parts bins and found the old front brake lines that need replacing. Couldn't find any OE so decided to make these Centric ones look like OE by transferring the rubber rings over. What do they do anyway?
We actually had some we pulled off the 83 car. That one's getting stainless lines so we just cut the old ones which made getting these off quite simple.
However, getting them on the new lines was not so easy as they didn't want to expand over the fittings. Never mind, nothing a utility knife and some glue can't handle.
Wheel leave them to cure for a while eh.
We only need one holder ring so we cut one off. We decided to use the Centric one as our original ones are already falling apart.
Oh, is that the DHL truck?
When we last conversed we were finding things to do while we waited for a heat shield to arrive from Germany. Well guess what; it arrived, along with a few other bits and bob. we must say, it looks a lot better than what we pulled out of the 83.
It was quickly installed but as soon as it was on we thought "Uh oh, we might have to take it off to get the engine in" DOH! well, we had no idea what it looked like until it was here so how could we know it might be in the way. Oh well, another month wasted.
So, not to waste any more time we quickly started to pop the engine back in. It was a little tricky to lift it into place as we had to guideit around a lot of stuff (but not that damn heat shield as we took it off) but eventually it lined up with the engine and subframe mounts and we bolted into place, hand tight for now.
This is the first time it's had an engine in it since February 2015! We have so much more room in the shop now.
What next then? We guess connect as little stuff as necessary to fire it up while refurbishing whatever is necessary. Stay tuned.
Started to put the car car back together yesterday. Unfortunately it's been two years since we last saw where everything went so it's a bit of a challenge. Fortunately we have an 83 in the corner to refer to. Unfortunately, because it's a Quattro you can't see anything LOL.
Still, we press on regardless.
Aligned the engine and torqued all the subframe, engine and transmission bolts. Well, the ones you can get a torque wrench on.
connected the hydraulic pipe to the bomb. This connection does not seem to rotate so we took the bomb off and rotated that instead. This is now the third time we have installed the bomb.
Reconected the exhaust.
Reconnected the rear drive shaft.
Reconnected the shift linkage. Goes into all the gears but might need adjusting though.
Installed the right engine mount heat shield, again. It wanted to go in front of the oil cooler mounting tab so we mounted that too. I bet we take it off again later.
Installed the right transmission mount heat shield. Yes, we are missing a screw. It's like no other screw on the planet and seems to be NLA. Thanks Audi.
Reconnected the clutch line.
Not sure when we'll get chance to throw some more parts at it. Schedule is a bit full for the foreseeable future and the Tour de France is on TV six hours a day!
Le Tour be dammed; we're working the car! A bit.
Got the oil bollocks, er, we mean oil filters installed.
and the front torque support/alternator mount. What does that do anyway?
Installed the vacuum lines on the front diff actuator while it is still accessible. Looks like we may have guessed the orientation correctly.
Axle, strut and brakes! Well, on one side at least but still......
It's starting to look like a car again. Next year we'll install the strut on the other side
More progress. Yes, we know. We are going nuts.
We had to put the other side's front suspension on. We couldn't help ourselves.
The interesting thing now is that we could roll it off the hoist if needed. However, we swore it would only ever drive off. Let's see how that works out.
One exciting (to us) aspect of the suspension reinstall is that we think we may have found a solution for a problem that isn't really a problem. Due to the upper strut bushings compressing even when new, there is always a gap between the strut top and the body. We found some rubber washers in the plumbing isle that fill this gap perfectly and installed them today. Makes us warm and fuzzy inside.
We used two per side. One and a half would have been perfect.
Thankfully Some bright spark pointed out that the strut top has to be loose enough to rotate with the strut shaft so we removed one washer.
Then we reinstalled the inner CV heat shield on the right side.
These are the wires which have to find their way onto the starter. We are not sure where the two different style of spade connectors go. Any insight?
so we took a guess for now. Are we right?
Reinstalled the alternator, intercooler and turbo intake hose.
All that's really left is the radiator, hydraulic system, ignition system, throttle body, injection system and to connect a bunch of wires and vacuum hoses. How hard could it be?
Quite a bit of progress today.
Installed the front anti roll bar. Almost forgot it had one.
Installed the new hydraulic pump belt. Of course we had to remove the pump to get the belt over the pulleys. Not a lot of room in front.
Also installed the alternator belt though we didn't think we had one. Our car (WX) is supposed to use a 9.5x850 v-belt but we only had a 9.5x786 for the WR and GV model. Turned out that was the right one for our WX. Go figure. This one went on a lot easier than the pump belt though tightening the alernator pivot bolt was a challenge.
Excited buy our belt success we looked in the parts box to see what else we could throw at the car. We decided to reinstall the hydraulic hoses and reservoir as it all goes on the left side of the engine bay and would be easier now rather than with the radiator in place. But first we had to locate and connect a few wires as these all reside under the hoses. The wiring connectors are beginning to find their own ways home but some are still troubling us. We are hoping those will become obvious soon enough.
First the oil reservoir. We thought we'd dismantle on the bench and see if any of the parts indicated on the parts diagrams needed replacing. However ours was empty inside. Is this right?
It worked before so we reinstalled it.
Then we reinstalled all the hydraulic lines.
Next time we think we'll put the cooling system back. Hopefully that wont be too long from now.
STAY COOL AND QUATTRO ON.
Yes, we put the cooling system back in. Found some new old stock hoses in the parts bin too
Starting to look together
On an unrelated topic does anyone know which one of these two connectors goes to the warm up regulator and where the other one goes to?
Next, the ignition system, perhaps.
However, this little spring was left over from the distributor refresh. We can't figure out where it came from. It's not shown on the parts diagram. Any ideas?
We also found some new ignition leads in the parts bin. 200998031A
When we left you we were trying to figure out where the little spring went in the distributor and contemplating reinstalling the ignition system. Well, just prior to our trip to Pebble Beach for the car events and elsewhere we did just that:
We pulled the distributor from our 83 and it turns out it goes right here:
So we popped it in, reassembled the distributor and installed it on the engine. Timimg was still set so it was a doddle to line up at TDC.
Then we turned our attention to the spark plug wires. The car is supposed to have a plastic tube to carry and support the wires but ours never had one. Fortunately we had picked up one in a parts haul a while back and now seemed the time to install it. This meant pulling the ends of each lead and pushing through it's a appropriate hole then reattaching the end. We used our old leads after testing them as the spare ones we showed you earlier proved not to be compatible.
The carrier is attached to the valve cover screws with two plastic-clad metal brackets. We didn't have these and they are NLA but a trip to the hardware store produced something almost identical so we went with those.
So now we have an ignition system:
This week, schedule permitting, we'll start on the fuel inject system. Almost done!
YAY. Our pictures are back!
We had all our early pictures hosted on some servers that went away. Now we have them hosted more securely and have replaced all the broken links. As a bonus you can also see full size images for this and all our other builds here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/team_illuminata/albums
Feels like we are very close. Also feels like winter is approaching. Better get cracking.
Started cleaning the fuel injection system. Decided not to dismantle it and just leave well alone.
Air filter housing:
New injectors and seals
On a roll now
Jumped the fuel pump relay to drain some old fuel.
Had to come up with a way to mount this thingy-me-jig as the mounting tabs were long gone.
Turbo inlet. Tight down there.
and fuel distributor
Our parts shelf is look quite bare now.
Today's progress. Hopefully not this weekend's progress.
Connected the fuel lines to the warm up regulator.
New fuel filters:
There really isn't much left to do. At least to get it running:
Then once it works:
REAR BRAKE LINE
BLEED BRAKES, CLUTCH
PS STEERING FLUID
TIGHTEN CONTROL ARMS
ADJUST SHIFT LINKAGE
Then we put it away for the winter.
So, assembly continues as we edge nearer to the momentous day when it drives itself off the hoist, hopefully down the road and not into winter storage.
Got the throttle body cleaned, adjusted and back on.
Then had to fix the inlet air temperature sensor.
Fortunately our 83 has one that looks like it was a replacement once. Ohms check check out too.
A bit of electrical shenanigans and it's in.
Then there was nothing left to do but call my Audi expert, Werner then fire it up!
Doesn't idle yet and still needs coolant but we had a little celebration anyway.
As this project is sort of wrapping up we started another one we thought you might like. Introducing the Audi UR Quattro Rally Build.
So, a lot of work but not a lot of updates. Here's why.
Bled the brakes.
Reinstalled the grill and the bumper.
and put it back on all fours for the first time in years.
Then got it to idle and run quiet.
Then drove it off the lift.
Then took it for a drive.
Then stood back and admired it
Sorry about the lack of updates. Got distracted by some work related events not the least of which was attending LSPR with our 911 and other assorted old rally cars.
Since I got back I haven't worked on the car but taken every opportunity I could to drive it. This included a funeral, a couple of cars and coffee events, an open house and running to Autozone for parts for our ailing Allroad.
I'd forgotten how much I enjoy driving this car and how much attention it gets. I'm going to try to enjoy it as much as possible before it goes away for the winter. It drives very well, is smooth and quiet but does have a slight hesitation under load though it pulls strong. I can figure that out and put the remaining few parts back on this winter. For now LET"S DRIVE!
Been looking for opportunities to show of the car and have some fun with it before we run out of season.
The demise of our A3 left us with some 17" BRAID Fullrace A wheels and 225 tires lying around and with the help of the spacers that our ALLROAD doesn't need with it's winter wheels it soon became obvious what we must do. Throw them on the quattro!
This is only for fun mind you. They are a little contemporary and the 225/45-17 tires are about an inch to tall but it was well received in this state at our local meet Saturday.
You can feel the extra weight and diameter when driving and there is s slight rub somewhere on full lock but they are about the same diameter as the package we are planning to use on our 83 build so worth the trouble. 15" BRAIDs go back on soon.
The car is starting to srtuggle to start again now. Runs great once warmed up exept for a slight hesitation around 4000 rpm. Maybe the cold start valve? It is also pissing out hydraulic fluid still. We replaced everything around the bomb except the pressure switches so we suspect those. New ones are on the way.
We have also been tidying up the mess we gad left over from the project. This consists of mostly parts that need to go into boxes and parts that still need to go on the car.Tok care of inventorying and boxing parts and installed the plastic underbody stuff.
So just the cruise control actuator and injector blower to reinstall when we get chance. Holding off for now until we diagnose the starting issue though.
It's been winter for too long already so no driving the 85. No working on it either as our 83 rally build and wheel sales have been keeping us busy. We have been picking away at the hydraulic system leaks however. We easily sourced some new pressure switches for the hydraulic bomb and quickly replaced the one on the side. However we did manage to disconnect a wire in the process.
The one underneath was a different prospect requiring us to access it from below. This, of course, took many, many weeks to get round to until recently when we finally drove it onto some ramps in the showroom.
where it sat for another couple of weeks till we had time to crawl under it. It soon became anther classic Audi "unscrew the simplest thing, if you can" project until we found just the right 24mm deep socket to get the switch off. At first we tried loosening the bomb from it's moorings but you cant undue these two nuts even though you can see them:
Finally found a thin wall socket that fit.
This still left the wiring issue to fix.
Think this is where it came from.
This puppy cost $35! Well, it was free, but we had to buy $35 worth of zip ties to liberate it from the box of 100 we were supposed to buy.
Soon had it on and back on the switch.
Of course we can't tell if it's solved the leaks till we drive it and it's still too salty outside. Never mind, now we can fix the leaky rear diff. However, this involves putting it on the lift and you now how long it took to get it off there last time! Wish us luck.
Uh oh! Car is on the lift again! Hopefully not for two years this time.
The plan is to drop the diff and reseal it. Three main seals to replace and I think they are all leaking to some extent.
My first plan was to undo the axle and drive shaft bolts, undo the diff mounts and then, hopefully wrangle the diff out. All the axle and drive shaft bolts came out easily but, however, it looks like the axles don't have enough axial free play to release and the subframe bushings have seen better days so new plan is to remove the diff with the subframe. Still have to separate the axles and drive shaft first though. Probably going to remove the track rods and lower control arms at the subframe and leave the struts hanging.
Must remember to disconnect the diff actuator though.
So, how hard could it be?
How hard could it be? Very
Well the axles and drive shaft needed some persuasion to let go of their respective couplings. A few wacks with a hammer did the job. I made some room by disconecting the lower control arms and the tie rods from the subframe.
Then moved on to the subframe bolts. Two came out easily. the rear right was seized in the sleeve but that tore out of the bushing so it did unscrew at least. The rear left just broke it's head off as soon as it saw the socket approaching.
We still managed to free the subframe from it with a bit of brute force but that left a siezed bolt taunting us in place.
So my friend Carlos welded a nut to it but as soon as we offered up the big socket to attempt to unscrew it we realised it was already hand tight! The power of heat. It's magical.
So next is inspection and tear down of the diff and subframe. Oh, and finding lots of parts.
We started to dismantle the diff and subframe. Dismantle might be too strong a word and we are just replacing bushings and seals, but it is an old Audi.
Drive shaft and both axle flanges are out.
This is the big seal on the left. No longer available but 034 Motorsport had some made. Phew!
Will need to replace this as it broke off the diff lock actuator shaft.
Will be replacing the diff lock actuator too of course. Already have a new one of those. The rear mount has seen better days. It will have to go. Have a couple of these in the parts bin though
and the left tie rod boot is split so this will have to be replaced too. Fortunately still available as a complete unit.
And, of course, new subframe bushings from Germany! So here we are, waiting for parts, again.
Got the right axle seal in but not started on the right one yet, the BIG one. Had to order the drive shaft seal as I had the wrong one but I did try fixing the groove in the saft with a Speedi Sleeve.
These press on the shaft using the tool provided with the sleeve but it didn't go too well and we were very disappointed with the tool as it seemed too big.
Will try again perhaps with one from a different supplier. We received some yokes for the diff actuator from a generous member of the community.
and for fun tried our new BRAID wheels for the 83 rally build on for size.
16x9, et12 so they are way too wide for the stock fenders of this car but will work well on or wide body rally car.
It’s been another slow project. Who would have thought replacing three diff seals would take this long? LOL
So we replaced the rear diff mount. The old one came out on the press but the new one only needed a g-clamp and some grease to persuade it home. Fortunately we took pictures so we were able to orient it correctly; or at least the same.
We searched hi and low for a new shaft repair sleeve that was the right size and not made by SKF. You may remember the last one was distorted by it’s own installation tool. Finally settled on one from National but when we opened the box the instructions were from SKF! Anyway we were a lot more wary installing his one and managed to keep it staright by making our own installation tool out of a pipe clamp.
Then we pressed in all the seals, The left one is huge and does not have a shoulder to press it against. We measured the old one’s depth before taking it out and gradually tapped the new one home around it’s circumference till it measured the same all round.
Then we turned our attention to the diff lock actuator. We used the same Mercedes part we had used for the center diff. We had to drill another hole in the mounting plate as the back hole is in a different place. Not a big deal. We managed to salvage the original yoke and had to tap the Merc actuator shaft to mate up to it. Then we slapped it all together. There’s something magical about operating the diff lock on the bench. Maybe it’s the lack of driving the car.
With the diff done it’s time for the tricky bit: sub-frame bushings! We destroyed one last time remember?
Well, the diff project is done, not without with some casualties. Read on……….
Our friend Carlos, a venerated old car genius, made a jig for the press to keep everything aligned while pressing in the notorious pair of small sub frame bushings. The large pair went in like you’d hope a bushing went in: easily.
Well that didn’t work and we destroyed one $50, only available from Germany bushing. Apparently there is always a 50% failure rate when pressing these in which is why we had a spare!
So we gave up with the jig and just used a bolt down the middle and lots and lots of patience. This took several attempts with each bushing as we eye-balled them intensely looking for any sign of them starting to twist.
Once they are happy they go in nicely, like you’d expect but the slightest mis-alignment causes them to rotate and if you persist, distort. It was a bit stressful as ruining one more would set us back a month. Once in we soon had the diff mounted in the sub-frame again.
Before we could reinstall the assembly in the car we still had one more bit of housekeeping to perform. One rather rough inner CV joint. Fortnately you can still get these from an OE supplier and we were able to work on it still attached to the car, though it was a little dark under there. Once cleaned the old CV joint came off with some elbow grease and a puller.
We assembled the new joint on the bench and packed it full of grease.
Then drove it home with a drift. They are surprisingly tight on the axle splines.
Then we were finally ready to throw this thing back in the car and tighten everything back up
Except for the lower control arm bushings off course, which have to be tightened with the car on the ground. Unless you have some BRAID wheels lying around that is. Don’t try this without proper wheels!
And of course, don’t forget to put some nice diff lube in it.
By then it was 1am so we waited till the next day to take it for a test drive
Before returning it to the stable with its friends.
Now the car needs an alignment and a tune. Still have some hesitation under load.
HELP ME CHOOSE SOME TIRES.
The Kumho all seasons (no seasons) that are on the car are done so it's time for some new rubber. The stock size of 215/50-15 is NLA in anything affordable and streetable so it's going to be 225/50-15 again. The car does not see winter so summer tires are a must. I don't track it but want the most grip I can afford in case I have to stop or swerve in a hurry. They should look cool or period or both. Treadwear is a non-issue as these will age out before they wear out.
I've narrowed it down to 4 but can't quite decide:
P ZERO TROFEO R $169
PROXES R888 $138
PROXES R888R $140
PROXES RA1 $189
The car is running but not perfectly (more later) so I have been taking every opportunity to drive it and pose around in it. Took it to the post office:
A cars and coffee or two:
Parked in in the driveway:
and at the showroom:
I even parked it outside the local Audi dealer:
This really is the key to happiness.
Took the car to AutoEurope in Birmingham for:
Now so clean. Hadn't been cleaned for three years!
They did a great job. Shame it's parked back in the showroom and not in my drive.
Next on the agenda is to address the hesitation under load at around 3-4000rpm. Any ideas?
WOW. We can’t believe it’s been a year since we updated this thread. Better get cracking. Let’s see, what have we been up to?
Well, before we put it away for the winter we took it to the gas station to fill it up but on the way back it died at a light. Took much cranking to get it to fire back up but then we only had a 100yds or so back to the shop so couldn’t tell if it was ok or not. We parked it and forgot about it.
We fired it back up in April to take it to HOF Designs in Dearborn for some interior work. It didn’t seem really keen. Fortunately the roads were still bad so we trailered it there.
It still didn’t seem very keen once it drove off the trailer:
The car has been selected to appear at the Concours of America in July so we thought it was a good time to address a few issues with the interior. The drivers seat had a small hole and some of the stitching was coming loose. Also, a previous owner had installed big speakers in the doors and parcel shelf.
We got the car back last week. Yes, it took a while but our shop was full so we didn’t mind at all. It actually fired up really nice and drove round the block just like last year. No sign of the stalling now. We’ll have to dig into that later.
HOF did an amazing job and we could not be more pleased:
Next thing to tackle is the hesitation while getting onto boost along with a list of concours prep stuff. Oh, and trying to figure out why it died that one time. Stay tuned.
MORE CONCOURS PREP FOR THE QUATTRO
With only a few weeks to go before the Concours of America we thought we better get in stuck and fix some issues with the car so we got it into surgery:
Where we removed the TIM and BRAID stickers we have had on the car since we got it:
Put the stock steering wheel back on:
Put the stock wheels back on:
And found the right screws for the trunk carpet that covers the fuel tank:
Although it’s not really concours related we did want to replace the valve lifters in the head as one or two sound as if they are sticking lately.
Maybe this was the culprit. It was in about the right position considering where the noise was coming from.
Then off to Auto Europe to get it detailed, with a month to spare!
Before we dropped the car off at Auto Europe for detailing we had been trying to diagnose some running issues. Basically the car would hesitate when transitioning onto boost but otherwise ran pretty good. There are no real diagnostics on these cars and the CIS injection we find baffling but thought we could troubleshoot it. We went ahead and bought a CIS fuel pressure tester kit to check the various fuel pressures in the system.
These fell a little short of optimal so we replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter That did not help much but did make a marginal difference.
We also tested fuel delivery. We had plenty. So, with Auto Europe also being the home of famed Audi guru Phil we suggested they take a look while they had it in for detailing. Well that escalated fast. Phil quickly diagnosed that the frequency valve was not pulsating. He fixed a dodgy previous owner splice in the wiring but unfortunately that didn’t bring it back to life. He then attacked the wires at the ECU end and discovered some disturbing previous owner hacks. Firstly there were a bunch of wire nut splice adjacent to the ECU. Then he realised the vacuum input had been tee’d and there were now two inputs! It didn’t get any better once he got into the ECU either. There was a second, aftermarket vacuum switch piggy backed onto the original and various pins on the chip were soldered together! Clearly a new ECU was needed to make this car run as intended by the factory.
They managed to find a un-touched and supposedly working ecu from the same year car and threw it in just hours before we picked up the car to take it over to the concours. The car did indeed run and idle much more smoothly than before but exhibited a big backfire the moment it went from vacuum to boost. It also now will not run pat 4000rpm, an issue normally associated with a bad intake air sensor. That was all tested and the wiring repaired during the engine reseal project so it’s probably ECU end related. The backfiring stopped when we disconnected the cold start valve. It appears the ecu is using the that to add fuel on boost; way too much fuel. So that is where we are now: the car idles and runs great up to 4000rpm but then the ecu cuts fuel. We may just drive it like this till the season ends and then let Phil have at it as this car has been off the road far too much these past few years. Let’s see how that goes.