.::|Active Autowerkes Stage "TrippinBimmer" 330i ZHP Supercharged Street/Show Car|::. by WALKD U

By diyauto
( 2 )

.::|Active Autowerkes Stage "TrippinBimmer" 330i ZHP Supercharged Street/Show Car|::.

Compliments of WALKD U  @ e46fanatics.com


I am never good with surprises so I will just spill the beans... I ordered my AA stage 2.5 kit two weeks ago. The wait is excruciating. Parts of the Kit has arrive and waiting for a few more stuff 

I thought, I would create this thread to document the build.

Also when I get the kit I will have the following items up for sale:

1. aFe Stage 1 Intake Kit - E46 325i/Ci 330i/Ci - Pro5R

This aFe intake fits the following BMWs:

  • 2003-2006 E46 3 series: 325i 325ci 325xi + Wagon & Convertible models with M56 engine

  • 2001-2006 E46 3 series: 330i 330ci 330xi + Convertible

  • 2004-2006 E83 X3: X3 3.0i

2. Stett m54b30 Intake Boot (Black)

3. F1 Autohaus 325i/330i Ceramic-Metallic-Coated Headers

4. M54B30 Stock Throttle Body

5. Drop-In K&N Air Filter for Stock Intake Box. 

I am excited  I would like to Thank Viral and the AA TEAM! 

I am going to run BimmerBrakes New Equal Length Headers. 

Not going to do anything to the motor until the summer or so. During that time, I will install Raceware HeadStud, Port and Polish, 3 Angle Valve Job the head. 

The Main Reason for Head Pull is install the RaceWare Stud. Unless, I can install without pulling it?

Some guy in Sweden 

Alittle bird told me he's the best (Brady)


Been getting a few PM's on what I'm going to do with the tranny. Decided, I will stay Auto for now. I have been talking to IPT and Adam. Discussing my future issue with the tranny when I want about 420WHP. IPT recommend me doing a Valve Body Mod and go from there. 


That is my plans atm. I will also install a temp gauge to see what temps the tranny is getting as well. 

Not yet. I am trying to figure out Color Scheme. I am going to do and some other custom stuff...


Some Progress of the Kit 

High Temp Primer (500F)

High Temp Semi-Gloss Black (500F)

Took off the Snail Part of the Charger for Prep (Semi-Gloss Black)

Just picked up a complete m3 rear end  Was packaged and shipped today. 


Since, I am about to boost and thinking about keeping the GM Step Transmission

I am planning on installing IPT Manual Valve Body. Also, thinking about getting a Performance Torque Converter as well. 

The New Converter stall speed will need to be at least 500 RPM higher than the beginning of the powerband of your camshaft.

Anyone knows the PowerBand of the ZHP Cams? Would the PowerBand be the same when I Boost? 

Andy - Thanks for the Graphs. Will forward it to IPT. 

Here is my update for the day:

Sanding Down the Snail for a Smoother Finish

Plugged, Taped and Primed off Parts of the Charger 

Painted Semi-Gloss Black (High Temp Paint)

Removed Tape

Snail is Painted as well (I Primed it but didnt take pics :* )

Tapped Removed

Test Fitment and Color Scheme 


Finished Pictures 


Sorry for the slow updates. Mid-terms been kicking my a$$ lately. Been studying alot. 

Picked up the m3 rear end Tuesday at the Hub Station.

Here is some T-Bar Clamps. I bought to replace those wimpy worm gear clamps. 

Also, waiting on Viral to get me some quotes on some parts I wanted. So I can get this Project Started. Looks like I might not make it to MFest.  but we will see...


SiliconeIntakes is where I got the T-Bar Clamps  

Parts are Arriving and I am starting to remove parts this Tuesday 


I was in Dallas, Tx last weekend getting some stuff done. We are back on track now 

Today, I started to remove the intake, intake boot and shipped them off to the new owner  

Also, some more clamps, silicone hose and air filter arrived 

When, I contact IPT again. I will ask this for you. I believe it will be the same for the GM as well. Not much different. As they do have the upgrades for urs as well...

Tranny Upgrade and Software. 

Good to know 

Only progress so far is that I Semi-Gloss Black the FMIC. 


It's because I will need a CV end of the shaft to mate to the M3 Rear. Since, I am doing that. I might consider a 1 piece DS. Still have alot of planning to do before i get to that point 


Decided to work on some of it today. First, I removed the Hydraulic Tensioner Assembly.

Here the Hydraulic Tensioner Assembly.

The mini raised stud I was looking for to install the Mechanical Tensioner Assembly. 

Bought 2 new M8x35mm and bolted the Mechanical Tensioner Assembly.

Testing out my Semi-Black S/C Bracket. SO SLICK!

So I took it off and start working on the Injectors, and CCV. 

Moved the Purge Valve Bracket. 

About to remove the CCV 

This is where I stopped today. 

I have to order a few things to get it ready before install. I am about to order.

New Return Vacuum line for the Intake Manifold, Oil Dipstick O-Ring, Oil Filter Housing Gasket, Throttle Body Gasket and 3/4 Rubber Plugs.


Work on it some more today  Finished up the injectors and mount them. 

Took the Front Bumper off and start taking off the Aux Fan.

The Aux Fan is off 

FMIC is on 

Hello FMIC I didnt know u was there...

IDK offer up? Still on the car tho.


Some parts arrived today for the CCV Delete. 

1 x RNB-02254 By-Pass End Caps

1 x SUM-220047B -10/1/2" NPT Adapter Black Fitting

1 x SUM-220087B -10 90 Degree Black Hose Black Fitting

2 x SUM-220090B -10 Straight Black Hose Black Fitting

2 x SUM-220164B -10 O-Ring to -10 Adapter BlackFitting

There is more to come. Summit has some of my parts on back order but they will come 


Here is what I was able to get done during Lunch before picking up my lil sister 

Capped off the Intake Suction Part of the Old CCV System.

Removed Oil Filter and Alternator.

Removed the Oil Filter Housing 

OFH off the Motor.

OFH Gasket isn't bad but loosing its Flex.

I'm now waiting on UPS to arrive before I can reassemble the OFH and etc. More Parts for AA suppose to ship today so we will see...

I live 3-6 mins away LOL  I'm going to BWW tonight if u wanna join.

While me and doug was chatting. UPS man arrived 

Installed the New Return Line for the CCV

Bolted it up

Install the Injector Cover and Bolting Back on the OFH

Aligning the lower Alternator Bolt wasnt Fun but manageable

Nice hanging out with you for alittle Doug 


Only thing I got done today. I was suppose to get the AA package today but they want me to sign for it so (wasn't Home). Hopefully, I can get it Monday.


A few more parts arrived today while I was at work. Trying to make some money for my Expensive Hobby  


Not much of an update. Missed 3 out of 3 attempts. I live in the woods and no one would take my package. Also, have a Camera around the house so I'm covered. So this whole weekend was wasted :/ I need to finish the install. Hopefully, FedEx can send it to a Local FedEx Location. This all happen due to I have to sign for the Package...


I did a Compression Test last night and they did well  I also left the guage there for 5 mins with pressure to see does it leak. Leaking is little to none at all. Motor has about 84k. 

Three things:

1. Pull the fuse 53 out and crank several times to bleed out the fuel.

2. Follow the ignition wire to DME box and disconnect two connectors to stop power supply to ignition coil. 

3. Remove DISA.

4. Crank motor over 3 times. 

5. Results 

1. 185

2. 184

3. 185

4. 184

5. 185

6. 186

Well, Picked up AA package from FedEx location and was able to start the install of the S/C 

Cut and Extended the P/S Lines.

The Picture in the Install is not Correct. For the S/C Belt Adj. Bracket.

Bracket with S/C Mounted up

Reinstalled my MaxBore TB with new O-Ring Gasket.

Reinstalled DipStick with Plug and New O-Ring. 

Installed my New Manual Electric Puller Fan.

Installed the 45* Elbow with T-Bolts Clamps

Purge Valve Bracket Back on and etc. 

That was all for today. Got lazy. 


I spent like 15 mins on today. Was installing the Long Return Intercooler Pipe and saw that it is interfering with the Auto Tranny Cooler.  So, I bend the line to clear it for now. I will have a Solution for it in the Future when I run more boost.


Some off-topic: 

Got my wheels mounted and got the NSX and M6 aligned

Today is a nice day for me to cruise around 


Here is alittle Update:

Installed the BOV pipe and Tbolt both side of the 45* Elbow

Return Charge Pipe From Intercooler

Can see how tight it is with the Auto Cooler. 

Thanks Guys!  

Worked on it 15 more mins. LOL Hard to work on it when you have to watch/tutor your little sister!

Installed the S Pipe to the S/C 90* Elbows

I need to get more some T-Bolt Clamps for these Elbows...


Didn't do much today. So far I need to order some more t-bolts and 45* elbow for the CCV. Seems like my Straight Barb/Fitting is hittin the intake vanos noid. 

This is what a MS45.1 Looks like.

Installed Hot Chiks Front Sway Bar.


S/C Oil Cooler, Clamp Down All Hoses, Run Vacuum Lines, Oil Change, Install the Intake Part of the S/C, Mod my Driver-Side Fender , Extend MAF wiring, and etc...

Working on it alittle today. Installed the Oil Cooler Bracket, Painted the Oil Cooler Semi-Gloss Black, Extended my Purge Valve Line, and now waiting on more parts to arrive before mFest! 


Having an Issues ATM. Shipped DME Tuesday of last week with USPS Priority Mail and got insurance on it. Try to track it online and it shows nothing  Also, AA hasn't received it yet  I am going to the Post Office Monday. 


Worked on the 330 some more today and hopefully get the DME tomorrow so I can head out to MFEST! 

Installed the Lower 90* elbow and clamped it all down.

Installed the S/C Intake Pipe.

Can see my NPT to -10an fitting with a Straight AN Barb. 

Then the Valve Cover Fitting to 45* Fitting. It is a tight fit but manage to get it to work 

The Catch can will be in the drug bin area. 

Got Awesome News. 

AA got the DME this morning safe and sound. 

Viral called me today asking what tune did I needed. Told him Stage 2.5 and running 3" exhaust with gen3 type headers. 

Then he told me that "you know u will kill the Auto tranny."

I was like yeah...lol


Update for today...

No DME not sure when it will show up. (So no Mfest)

I purchase a Blue Tial Q BOV today as the AA one is so cramp in there. Hopefully, this one will work much better.


DME arrived Today!  Got some Extra Goodies as well. Now, I am waiting on my Tial Q BOV, 4 New Banjo Bolts (Misplace 2 of mine ), and Start ENGINE 

2 AA Key Chains

1 Large Gangsta AA T-Shirt

4 AA Decals/Stickers

License Plate Frame

Thanks Viral 

Almost Done

Oil Cooler Mounted and Blacked Out.

Most of the stuff is back together.

Painted the Brackets Black and Mounted up the Res.


Today, the Tial Q Bov came today with the Greddy Adapter Plate. 

Took me 2.5 hours to install this... Had to use a Different 45* elbow readj the pipes to make it fit. 

Now, I have to cut the Fender and install the MAF and Filter 

I found out today after Starting it up for the First Time  Surging Idle  I am running -6psi Spring ATM. I am going to try to swap it out for a Tial QR BOV -3psi and go from there.


I emailed ATP and order a TiAl QR Valve with -3psi spring and will be returning the Q. I guess, I can give up the WHOOSH noises. ;D

Installed the AA BOV and Crank up the Car. When I rev to 5k I can here the BOV Hissss...

Also, is that how my exhaust suppose to sound? Like I have a Cammed Engine 

Question for David, BMWKnight and JoshZHP. When the car is running does your mechanical tensioner moves around? Mines move alittle not sure this is acceptable...

Talk to Zak a Few MINS ago! Answer alot of my Questions and finding out about some...

Thanks for the Help! 


Swap plugs today and saw Plug 6 was DAMP  The new Plugs I swapped in is NGK 4091 non resistor type plug and heat range is 7. The Connections on the Coils is Fine and the ground as well. I will have to recheck the seat on the DME and Injectors as well.


I have unplugged the battery from the Car for about 3 weeks. I wont be back in Ms until 1-2 more weeks. I have a few cars I need to work on in Tx before I head back. e30 need A/C for the 6 hour trip back, friend need some CCV and Intake Boot maintenance done on his ride and another Black-Out Vortech v2 S/C Project.


Reset Code Today and Started her up. NO CEL  I will have to move some pipes around. I believe that is why I feel some extra vibs at idle.


After, I get my New Valve Body for the Tranny, New Tranny Software, 3" Custom Exhaust with Cut-Outs and install my M3 rear end. I have to do some minor mods and the s/c install will be complete and hopefully running well. Parts should be here Wednesday.

I don't have High Diff Ratio. I have 3.64 ZHP Diff, Different Tranny and Software. Plus, more HP and TQ. Nothing compare to Kpeng's car. We are both in Different Leagues...


M3 is 3.62 and the ZHP is 3.64. I had a Brain Fart when I posted up the 3.46

I will be getting an upgrade Oil Pump 


I have been really laggin on the e46 and been working mostly on the e30.  Hopefully, I get back on it and drive it down to AA 


Gave the 330 an oil change today  and did some minor Tweaking. It is running Great! There is a few things we need to tweak on the software (ex. idle rpm and upper RPM tune) The Power Feels Great. I am awaiting on some parts from AA and swapping out my BOV for the Candy Blue one from Viral. Hopefully, We can get this car really tuned in this Thanksgiving!

I just order another -10an 45* fitting from Summit as the Straight and 90* won't work well with my setup.

Good info. This will be good info for James (bigjae1976) as he is buying my Non-m Auto Axle shafts. I will be sending my M3 shaft at a future date to DSS when it is time. 

Adam, that is why I want to confirm with AA first. The 42lbs came from AA and only have 100mile use on them. The 36lbs Delphi V Style Pintle. I will have to get the part number off of them. Might be the same that TT uses on their kits. 

I want to get the car running correctly before driving anywhere  Then I can figure out the Upper RPM range lean at AA. 


Edit: Verify the Injector Cyl 6 injectors does not fire 


Great Advice  I did ohm test on all injectors and got 19.6 ohms. Then I did a 12v test on the cyl 6 injector and it wont open and spray fuel. 1-5 works just fine. So we know whats the problem. BAD Injector 

I would love to upgrade to Cosworth ECU, Mil-Spec Wiring Harness and Bosch Motorsport Injectors (I really want) but that will be down the road. I would like to wait for this guy to do the testing first :wink:


Ordered new injectors today be here Thursday for install 


Here is some Injector Tech. Our fuel system run at 3.5 bars. 

AA Delphi 37lbs Injectors (D3165BA) - Ordered 1 Replacement Per Zak Recommendation. 

High Impedance Injector 15.9 ohms

37lbs @ 3 Bar (Advertised Specs)

40lbs @ 3.5 Bar

Dynamic Flow (mg/pulse): 8.42 

Spray Pattern: Split 20*

Bosch 35lbs Injectors (0280155737) - Ordered but not going to use.

High Impedance Injector 12.2 ohms

35lbs @ 3 Bar (Advertised Specs) but really 34lbs

37lbs @ 3.5 Bar

Dynamic Flow (mg/pulse): 4.83

Spray Pattern: 4-hole disc

Bosch 36lbs Injectors (0280155868)

High Imdepence Injector 12 ohms

36lbs @ 3 Bar (Advertised Spec) but really 33lbs

37lbs @ 3.5 Bar

Dynamic Flow (mg/pulse): 4.83

Spray Pattern: 4-hole disc

Bosch 42lbs Injectors (0280155968) - Ordered

High Impedance Injector 12 ohms

42lbs @ 3 Bar (Advertised Specs) 

46lbs @ 3.5 Bar

Dynamic Flow (mg/pulse): 18.6

Spray Pattern: 4-hole disc

Delphi 42lbs Injectors (01D030x) - Thinking about getting these and selling the Bosch 42lbs Injectors

High Impedance Injector 15.9 ohms

42lbs @ 3 Bar (Advertised Specs)

46lbs @ 3.5 Bar

Dynamic Flow (mg/pulse): 9.96 

Spray Pattern: Tri-Cone 


^ It need some paint Brady to match the S/C 


Disassemble the intake to seal up the BOV and swap intake boot

Fully Assembled for the Most part. 

I also made a Metal Bracket for my Oil Catch Can today. Hopefully, paint it tomorrow and bolt it in. 


This is AWESOME!  I am planning to come down During ThanksGiving Week. Planning on taking my little sister to Disney World. Would like to knock 2 birds with one stone 


Modded the Fender for the Air Filter. Took alot of Cutting and Grinding  

Here is the Fitment  

I just placed an order with SiliconeIntakes.com for 3.5" 45* Silicone Coupling. So the Air Filter will be push forward more instead of hanging in the Wheel Well.

Custom Bracket.

Mounted the Oil Catch Can 

All the Fitting and Hose Mounted. (I know the Fitting is not all the way on)

Front Bumper is back on 

Waiting for the 45* Silicone Coupling to move this Air Filter Closer to the Bumper and not in the Wheel Well


PEI since mine is a MS54 the Ballast isn't removable  So I have to cut/grind to get the 3.5" pipe down into that section. The issue I have right now is I lost about .75 turn on the wheel to the right. I am waiting on the 45* elbow to see i can move the MAF and Filter out of the wheel well to make it fit better.

The Inlet of the Oil Catch Can comes from the Valve Cover and the Outlet goes into AA Pipe that wrap around the charger that goes to the Air Filter


After one tank of gas...

The Radium comes with 12 SS Condensers. Seems like it is not enough to slow down the Vacuum and let the oil and air separation. I will be ordering more Screens but not sure how many should I added 0.0 The Charger is seeing some oil...

Pei330ci know what the vacuum should be at in our motor (in the crank case)?


It seems like when I hit Full BOOST. The Oil Catch Can isn't restrictive enough to let the vapor and oil separate. That it is sucking it all in. 


Micky Mouse Ears, Wideband and Boost Guage installed 0.0

Tell me what you see wrong 0.o

Brand New LC-1 and Sensor.  Thinking I have a Vacuum leak somewhere...DISA? 1 Rubber Plug behind Mani? That is all I can think of...

Yes, I still have it. Where at?


On the F Connector where it usually go into the elbow there was a small rubber section that goes to the F Connector. I replaced it with some Silicone 4mm Vacuum hose. 


Edit: After thinking. I am going to check my Fuel Filter and its Regulator Vacuum Hose... So much to do so little time 



Installed new oring, new vacuum line on fpr and check and regap plugs...

I haz no leaks. So that is good 


^once boosted always something will go wrong. Hopefully this is it and time for a real tune...

My N/A Dyno Sheet 

People asking me about my new Air Filter Placement. 

Also, Swapped Tensioner Today.





Been having issues with filter wash. It will cause the engine to cutoff when i was coming to a stop quickly.

So I moved the MAF up the pipe and left the filter where it was. So far so good 

Next is to install some new o2 and my gen3 headers. Hopefully, this fix my crazy AFR. Very similar to Jim Murphy issue but my wires aren't melted. I guess the o2 just went out. Wish me the best 

Still having AFR issues. Headers should be coming off this weekend and new o2's should be installed and M3 Rear end swap as well.


Well, I finally did some work on the boosted 330 today. Removed the F1 Autohaus Ceramic Coated Headers and Post o2 sim Unit.

After, I get the Gen3 Tig'd up and Sprayed Black. I will be installing them with New o2 Wideband Sensors. Hope these will fix my AFR if not the Kit will be coming off and going back to stock.


Partially Installed...

This was the PITA to install. I spent 5 hours messing with it and only got 1 nut on the rear header and 4 on the front header. 0.o Should finish it up tomorrow...

LOLz far from a noob. Need to Remove Motor Mount Bracket, and Front Control Arm Bushing. You will need to lift the motor up and install both headers at the same time. Can't install the front and then install rear headers. Also most people dont leave the Top Part of the Exhaust Manifold Gasket intact.


You installed the Techniks Gen3? These headers is like Twice the size of the BB headers you are running...


Installed ESS FI Cams on the car, Vanos Seals, New Valve Cover Gasket and the 3" Exhaust. I also need to install my newly used M3 Fuel Pump with Baffle with the new Fuel Filter. 


WOOT 85% of my fuel issues has been resolved! My Fuel Pump and Baffle need to get here ASAP!

Exhaust why you so LOUD?

Not yet! Have to do some tranny maintenance and VB mod. (Feel mushy)



I decided to solder the wires that I extended on the MAF Harness. Using 62/36/2 Rosin-Core Solder and some Rosin Soldering Flux. I have yet have time to reset my adaptation but WHAO! Car just woke up. Putting a big smile on my Face. Now sure its just side-effect from working on the car but I'm happy so far. I will reset Adaption tomorrow and drive it some tomorrow to see does it still act up.


Well, since my car is running half decent  Engine Wear/Protection from being boost came to mind. 

I have been running M1 0w-40 since I had the car at 40k. M1 said they ZDDP in that oil is about 1100 per quart. M1 claims that is plenty for our cars. Upon opening my motor and swapping Cams. I beg to differ. So, I started looking for other ways to boost or get off the shelf Syn Motor Oil that has a Higher Content of ZPPD. Then, I came across this Lucas Oil 10063 Engine Break-In Oil Additive. The bottle is 16oz. and has about 35000+ ZPPD per bottle. Which is Great! To my calculations, I will need about 1-1.5oz per oil change (7-8 quarts).

Mobile 1 0w-40 = 1100 ZPPD

Lucas 1oz = 2188 ZPPD

So if my calculations is right...

1100(7) + 2188 = 9888 ZPPD (7 quarts)

9888/7 = 1412 ZPPD (per quart)

Which to me is acceptable as the motor oil I am using in my M20 (e30) has about 1400 ZPPD and Most Redline Racing Motor Oil has about 1500 ZPPD per quart. 


Since it warmed up a good bit here in Ms. I start to paint my oil cooler and brackets semi-gloss black to match the rest of the kit.

I started to remove my Oil Cooler for the S/C around to see how I can mount my new engine oil cooler...

Here it is mounted in front of the radiator support and will be behind the sc oil cooler.

Lines routed and fittings are fitted. I will be modifying the AA S/C Oil Cooler Bracket. Similar to the M3 version (AA should just use this bracket for all e46 as it fits and looks much better.)


Well my Viton Fluoroelastomer O-rings came in for the Technik/VPD Kit. These are very high quality compare to the BUNA O-rings that is on the kit originally. 

I measure everything myself O-Rings to the shaft to make sure these are the right one. I do have a few extra and be willing to sell them if anyone need replacements. 

Here they are on the Shaft nice and tight. I getting them done Dust Black. So it will match everything under the hood.

The cap before prep work.

Media Blasted and Custom Hangers...

Finish Product.

Technik/VPD Kit  My kit was banged up! I had to do some TLC...

I been online. You just stop iming me 


Food for Thoughts...

Final Compression Ratio on a 10:1 C/R Boosted Car (Stock m54b30)

Compression Ratio 10:1 with 4lbs of boost will yield a Final C/R of 12.7:1

Compression Ratio 10:1 with 6lbs of boost will yield a Final C/R of 14.1:1

Compression Ratio 10:1 with 8lbs of boost will yield a Final C/R of 15.4:1

Compression Ratio 10:1 with 10lbs of boost will yield a Final C/R of 16.8:1

Compression Ratio 10:1 with 12lbs of boost will yield a Final C/R of 18.2:1

Compression Ratio 10:1 with 14lbs of boost will yield a Final C/R of 19.5:1

Compression Ratio 10:1 with 16lbs of boost will yield a Final C/R of 20.9:1

Compression Ratio 10:1 with 18lbs of boost will yield a Final C/R of 22.2:1

These are the Final Compression Ratios on a car with 10:1 C/R while under its full boost.

Final Compression Ratio on a 9:1 C/R Boosted Car (Built Boosted m54b30)

Compression Ratio 9:1 with 4lbs of boost will yield a Final C/R of 11.4:1

Compression Ratio 9:1 with 6lbs of boost will yield a Final C/R of 12.7:1

Compression Ratio 9:1 with 8lbs of boost will yield a Final C/R of 13.9:1

Compression Ratio 9:1 with 10lbs of boost will yield a Final C/R of 15.1:1

Compression Ratio 9:1 with 12lbs of boost will yield a Final C/R of 16.3:1

Compression Ratio 9:1 with 14lbs of boost will yield a Final C/R of 17.6:1

Compression Ratio 9:1 with 16lbs of boost will yield a Final C/R of 18.8:1

Compression Ratio 9:1 with 18lbs of boost will yield a Final C/R of 20.0:1

These are the Final Compression Ratios on a car with 9:1 C/R while under its full boost.

Thanks to Supercharging Performance Handbook for the info.


You are asking a legitimate question. So no worries, I never plan this install to be this long. Over a Year  One issue after another. The car runs fine but I just can't get on it and a cold start issue. (Timing Pulls like crazy after the SAP turns off) I can feel it and its in my datalog as well. 

I am about to jack her up tomorrow and tear her down again. This time will be the last time I hope. I will be doing my Transmission VB Mod, M3 Rearend Swap, Custom Driveshaft, Zionsville Radiator and Expansion Tank, Tial 50mm QR BOV, New ATI SuperDamper, 95mm Rotrex Pulley, ARD Underdrive Kit, Apex ARC-8 18'' Wheels, Bosch Motorsports 60lbs Injectors and a few other goodies. 

Yes, I did installed some shrick 248/256 FI cams in the car and 3" exhaust with the help of Brady. They are a PITA to install but well worth it. When finish and done. I am expecting about 400 or so WHP. So wish me luck 

As far as tuning goes. I have yet have time to send Zak@AA a good Datalog (30mins or so) of the car from a cold start and warmed up operations. Hopefully, AA can get my tune squared off and running correctly. My other option is go with a Stand-A-Lone ECU unit and that will be some fun...


The idle speed doesn't change or have any tapping noises. Just the timing is pulled and advanced that make the engine shake alittle. (Can feel in cabin) goes away about 1-2mins after starting the car.


I was able to squeeze in some work from Babysitting, Working for my Parents, School and my own business. Been very heck-it lately. 

I was able to removed the ATI Damper that I sold to Solo-///M and shipped that out  Should get it soon bro!!!

I was able to remove my OEM Radiator and Cooling System for BigJae1976. I can't wait for my new RAD and Expansion Tank!!!

During this time, I also Removed and Installed my Under Drive Pulley Kit from ARD. 

Some of you guys might say why am I doing this. Well, the issue is Belt Slipping before hitting full boost. I been going through belts like no tomorrow. So to fix that I am jumping up to a 95mm S/C Pulley and Oversize ATI Damper with an UnderDrive Pulley Kit. I am not to worried about the Alternator since its has a regulator built on and will adj itself accordingly. Next on my thing to do list is remove the Rear ZHP Diff before the week is over. And start on my M3 LSD RearEnd Swap. 

Also, some tech info. For people who wanna do some Maintenance on the AA S/C Kit. There are 2 Toyota Timing Belt Pulleys on this kit. Made by KOYO (Toyota OEM Manufacturer). They are really hard to find if you don't know the part number. So I helped you guys out. Listed below are the interchangeable part number for this pulley 


024-1006 BECK/ARNLEY

13503-63011 TOYOTA

13503-63021 TOYOTA

13503-70040 TOYOTA

57TB3705 NSK



Well I have been busy wrenching lately 

What's missing here...

Cleaned it up and shipped out to the new owner yesterday. 

I also been working on the M3 as well. Trying to get both car ready for MFest. I installed Brembo 380/345mm 4 Pot BBK, KW V3 with Ground Control Camber Plates and Iconz 510XC wheels. Hopefully, I get to install something that I really want for MFest. 


Something pretty kewl if I like to be a sleeper under the hood...

I also drained the transmission today. Hopefully, taking the VB off soon 


You got that right! Weather been kinda iffy lately but starting to get better starting this weekend. I sold my ST Coilovers and Picked up some TCKline 500F/500R D/A Coilovers, VMR v705 18x9.5 et33 wheels, ATI OverSize Damper is here and some other parts. I will be starting on it soon!!! I am so  Hopefully, be running in a week or so



Received the TC Kline D/A Coilover System with 500F/500R Springs. As you can see they are pretty weathered. So I called and talked to Phil. He said its ok to use brake cleaner to clean up the shocks and see does it loosen the adj screw on the shocks. 

Well I broke them down and PB blasted them  I will leave them like this for a few days until I scotch brite them with a finishing pad (Very Very Fine) to hopefully bring back some of the finish. 

At this time, I decided to rebuild the Ground Control M3 Street Camber Plates that came with the kit. 

I order new polys from GC for $21 bux shipped. I have also decided I will not be using these but use the Vorshlag Camber Plates that I have for the Non-m

If I can get the Adj Screws at the bottom of each shocks to move. I will not send them in. As they don't leak and work fine. I am changing up the spring combo tho. Thinking about 450/700 setup as I do have a system (audio) in the back. Also, I will need to get the hardware  for the Rear Adj for the Springs. 

When swapping the M3 rear in there is a change but its very minimal. When I break mine down I will measure and fine out where its wider/longer at.


Well my hard work paid off! All adjustment screws work well. All it needed was some PB Blaster, Brake Cleaner and some Anti-Seize. 

All Cleaned up

Anti-Seize Applied

Rear Shocks put back together

Front Shocks for the Most Part


Decided to slap in the 42lbs injectors to fix my minor lean issues. Until I can throw in my Bosch Motorsports 60lbs injectors and get the car tune for it 

Where did my rear axle go? 

Order a HPF Rear Sub-Frame Kit. Can't wait to get this and get them installed. Thanks KIRK!  Also, there is a few other parts I am waiting on as well. Sux not being a millionaire or this car be done long time ago...



Entire Rear End has been removed and waiting on HPF SubFrame Kit to arrive. 

Oversize Damper and Underdrive Waterpump Pulley...

Testing Belt Fitment to see they will clear with no issues...

I do have an issue with the Damper hitting the Pulley on the A/C Tensioner and Limited Tensioning movement. I will have to figure out away for it to clear and get the right size belt for fitment...



No one said going oversize damper will be easy  

As stuff slowly comes in for my M3 subframe...


BUILD has come to an end. I am going to bring this car back to stock. So All performance parts are FS.

Life plans might change its course to Cali. So I want my car to be reliable and legal. Just dont want car impounded and i be ugh....

(talk me out of it guys...)