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1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project
Compliments of BearsFan315 @ aaca.org
Well I am on my Official Second Antique Project, this being a 1929 Chevrolet International, 4 Door Sedan. Picked it up from a gentleman Out in Indiana. Partially restored, mainly the interior, roof, and a few cosmetics left to be done...
Beautiful car, mainly origianl parts n pieces, Engine has been recently rebuilt/ overhauled (will tear into it and check out everything) Paint looks great, frame great shape, as well as most of the reast of the car.
It has not earned a name yet, hopefully in tiame it will get a name Have the kids working on that as well, a good name for the car.
Here are some photos from the seller: 1929: Resto DVD
Very Nice Looking car, just needs some TLC and finishing up.
Hope to get it all finished up and driving then it can be the sunday driver for a trip to a local eatery or park, peaceful sunday drives.
Ok here are some pictures of the pieces unloaded, unpacked, and getting sorted out:
OK, in Doing a Simple Engine Tune-UP & Setting the timing on the 1929... [based on the Rough Running and such from this Video:
Here is my Current Plan of Action:
Based on my homework & reading the forums
Oil Pan Gasket
-- Drain Oil & Inspect for Metal particles/ Other Contaminants
-- Check Lower Half of Engine
---- Rods, Bearings, Dippers, Oil Lines, Oil Pump
-- Clean Pan Gasket Surface (Pan & Engine)
-- Inspect & Check Dipper Clearance (What Should This Be ? & Best Way to Check this)
-- Install New Oil Pan Gasket Set
-- Fill with oil [10w-30]
Plugs & Wires
-- Remove, Inspect & Check
-- Regap Plugs to .040" [AC Delco C-86 Plugs]
Points, Distributor Cap, Rotor, Coil, Condensor
-- Inspect & Check
-- Set Point Gap to .018" per recommendation
Valves COLD SET
-- Inspect & Check w/ Engine Cold
-- Check Each Cylinder & both Valves on Each Cylinder when that Cylinder is TDC (Under Compression Stroke, when both valves are CLOSED)
---- Set Intake Clearance to .006"
---- Set Exhaust Clearance to .008"
Test Fire Engine/ Warm-Up
-- Fire Up Engine (Cross Fingers for Starting Up & Running)
-- Set Timing
-- Check & Set to 18 deg (Per Recommendations on Here)
-- Warm-Up to Operating Temperature
-- Shut Down Engine & Check/ Set Valves at Temperature
Valves HOT SET
-- Inspect & Check w/ Engine Warmed up
-- Check Each Cylinder & both Valves on Each Cylinder when that Cylinder is TDC (Under Compression Stroke, when both valves are CLOSED)
---- Set Intake Clearance to .006"
---- Set Exhaust Clearance to .008"
Also Will Replace These Gaskets while I am in there:
Push Rod Gasket
Valve Cover Gasket
-- Seems Stright forward, remove existing, clean up surfaces on Engine & Cover, Install New Gasket.
-- Should I install any form of sealant or Adhesive, i.e. Permatex No 2, and if so on which surface, Engine or Cover ??
Thanks, my plan on the Oil Pan Gasket, I have made 4 Guide Pins, took 4 .250-20 UNC bolts about 2.00" long, cut off the heads, ground and rounded that end off. This way i can thread them into the four corners, so when I install the pan i know that I am going straight up and even, as not to disturb or move the gaskets. With it being a 4 piece gasket set it is my understanding that the side pieces must be installed first as the end of the end corks but up against them, then use permatex 2 in the corners to seal them, but just a dab. Also have been told to Wet the end corks and wrap them around a can and let dry to preform them into shape for easier installation, also that I can use a thin coat of grease to hold the gaskets against the block surface, Or could use a thin film of the permatex 2, i just want to ensure that IF i have to replace the gasket again, that I can easily remove it and not have to clean off the permatex. Previous owner did away with the cork gasket and opted to use a black rtv to seal the pan on, granted it leaked on both bearing ends, it was a royal pain to remove, took time and patience, then more time to clean the surfaces !! Think i made up a few new words in the process
As for the Fuel tank and carburetor, it is a fresh clean tank. Also the system was drained & flushed recently. I also bought the filter from The Filling Station that drops in the Glass fuel bowl for an added level of security and Filtration.
Thanks for the info, I have actually heard about doing this. The pictures really help. How can I spin the Engine Backwards ?? Understand that my Engine and all is Still installed in the Car, Fully connected.
While I have the pan dropped I am also going to prime and paint it. In cleaning out my oil pan to prep it for priming and painting, realized that some of the dipper trays have pin holes in them, looks like from rusting/ sitting around during rebuild from previous owner(s) ?!?
So Now I am looking for a way to either fix/ repair my pan or buy one from a fellow Member... Took it by the local Radiator Shop here and the guys says he can braze/ solder/ weld them up really nice with no problem. He gave me a great price, so I am going to see what he can do. They specialize in Radiators, building, repairing, desigining, etc... They restore antique radiators as well, plus they custom build heat exchangers from little guys to monsterous large ones for large diesels and ships. They are also going to dip it, which will strip it back to bare metal.
Holes in Dipper Trays:
I am in Portsmouth/ Norfolk area, far SouthEastern Tip by the Mouth of the Chesapeake Bay.
Yeah most of the cranks will need to be replaced, as well as some of the tracks. I have found a few places that actually carry them, figured I am going to hold off on replacing them till i get to the interior, unless I come across a steal of a deal on a set !! First priority is to get the eingine assembled and running right, then will set the brakes. Has a compltely new brake job, as I was informed when I bought it. So I am going to build a brake tool based on Chevrolets Specifications for one, also see that I can buy one from a few shops as well, but being in the Mechanical Design Engeering Field I think it would be more fun to design one out and have one made.
As for the Roof Top found out that Hampton Coach (now part of LeBarron Bonney) carry a complete kit for the roof, as well as the kit for the interior ALL THE WAY. Actually got the sample kit from them with samples, colors, and pricing. And there is a local guy here that can do the installation as well.
As a side note, while i was in the lower half of the engine, I checked out what was in there and it's condition.
Here is what I Found:
1-Missing both Oil Pump Suction Pipe Screen Part No 835579 & Oil Pump Suction Pipe Spring Part No 346804, but talked with a local supplier about a few hours from me, up in Glen Allen, VA and he actually had a set of NOS on hand, so I picked it up and now in my possession.
2- Several of the Connecting Rods were so loose that i could move them EASILY by hand, so have set teh clearances on ALL 6 Connecting Rods per the manual. Funny part is the engine Turns easier my hand then before.
Also checked the two oil pockets/ reservoirs on the bearing ends to make sure they help oil, as well as the ball checks and the flow paths to ensure oil coild freely flow.
I am waiting on hardware, had to order some .250-20 UNC Round Head Slotted Machine Screws, all the local stores only carry the phillip head type, so ordered what I really wanted and original to the car. Also waiting on local shop to clean & fix up the pan, then I will prime and paint it. Also have a new Oil Pan Gasket in Hand.
Some Picts of the Oil Pan:
As for the Side of the Engine...
I have removed the Push Rod Cover, it has also been sent to the local Radiator shop, it will be Stripped so that I can prime and paint it up. Also have a new Gasket as well. I plan to install the gasket to the cover using Permatex 2, using a thin coat. THen clean up the block surface and reinstall the cover with new gasket.
All the rods look great, none of them seem bent.
Here are some shots of the cover & gasket:
As for the Top of the Engine...
Removed the valve cover, as I will eventually need to set and adjust the valves. But for now I have cleaned up the Cover, and sent it to be cleaned so that it can be primed & painted. Someone along the way punched holes in the cover for venting, I am going to have the holes cleaned up and welded so that it will look original.
Also noticed that I need to get some wicks, as there are NONE !! 1929 Oil Wicks: MIA
Ordered the wicks when i ordered my gaskets. Need to remove the rocker arms and install the wicks per the manual.
Detail of Oil Wick from Manual: 1929 Oil Wick Detail
Already have a New Valve Cover Gasket, just need to get things done so I can close up the top half.
Checking the current Timing before I start the above Plan of Action (underlined Text is a Picture Link)
When I have Cylinder 1 @ TDC (under Compression Stroke), I should be able to see the 12 deg Timing Mark in the window, IF the timing is relatively close, if not it should at least be just outside the window ?? Is this correct ?? Thinking before i set the timing this would be a good way to check to see if the timing is even close ?? or is there a better way to do this ??
So I have piston 1 set at TDC top dead center, under compression (confirmed with compression guage) Flywheel Timing Mark @ 12deg, (Freshly painted timing marks for visibility). Now when I have this set where should my Rotor be pointed (Distributor) ?? My thought it should be pointed towards Plug 1. based on the 1929 Repair Manual and vairous postings on here the Firing order should be 1-5-3-6-2-4, and this is the order the plugs should be connected with Plug 1 being located approximately at 5 O'clock, going clockwise for the remainder. Looking like this: Distributor Firing Order Diagram however this is where my Rotor/ Distributor Sits with this configuration: Rotor Location at TDC & Rotor Removed at TDC Looks like it is getting ready to fire Number 6 !! Well in my case with the mixed up wiring would be firing number 3 :/
Am I Correct so far: YES or NO ?!?
If so I found one issue already, that being that they have the Number 3 & Number 6 plugs reversed, so they are currently firing 1-5-6-3-2-4, which may be a major cause in Rough Running & Sounding and the knocking/ tapping hopefully was from improper bearing clearances which i have already addressed and fixed.
So looks like I need to pull out Distributor and rotate 180 degrees, so that it is pointing at Number 1 not Number 6.
Swapping the wire is cake, only takes a few seconds.
It is amazing that the engine ran, but hey... hoping it runs smoother once i get it all done and back together.
End result would be to have piston 1 at TDC (Compression Stroke) timing window reading 12 deg, and distributo rotor pointing at the number 1 Plug Wire.
This should get me really close in the Ball Park. Once I get it all back together & running I will Fine Tune the Timing. Still things to do on my Plan of Action List Above.
Trying to keep moving forward, while I am waiting on parts, pieces, etc...
Good Thought Wood Fiddler...
Currently it is up on four jackstands, all four wheels off the floor, plugs are out, top & bottom of the engine is open (No Valve Cover, No Push Rod Cover, & No Oil Pan).
1929 Photos up on Stands:
Also if I spin one back wheel, I will need someone to hold the other back wheel or it will spin opposite direction not turning transmission/ drivetrain or will it. Or do I have to turn both wheels at the same time in the same direction to turn the engine ?? I will try this if I get time this weekend, put my son to work and help me.
General 1929 Photos:
taken while it is in the garage, right after delivery. Once I get it running and stopping I will roll it out and get some better photos in the clean crisp outdoors
just a thought, what happens if you do get grease in the dippers ?? granted you can clean the grease out, but the grease should not hurt anything, should it ?? as long as it is compatible and soluable.
what kind of grease did you use ?? I have a tub of Valvoline General Multipurpose Grease for GM VV614 and a tub of Valvoline SynPower Full-Synthetic Multipurpose Grease VV986 That i can utilize for this purpose.
I know in my current position, with engine installed and connected, a whole lot easier to spin forward than backwards. Still gonna try when I get time, was a long busy weekend here. Caught up on yard work and cleaning the daily driver !!
Back to work on the 1929 with my 1929 Engine Timing/ Tune-Up [Plan of Action].
One thing that was mentioned to me was to check the check ball in the bearings to make sure they are free. Now is there a ball in the front and the rear, or only the rear ?? On my 1929 on the front there is a passage, no ball, but on the rear there is a pin, ball next to it and I can move the ball around and push it back freely with a small wire.
Is there any way to clean out the passage and the Oil pockets above while the engine is in the car ?? Would like to drain the oil out of hte pockets, make sure the pockets are clean of sludge and grime.
Want to take care of this before i close up the bottom end and move to the top end. Still waiting for parts to get back from shop.
I have gotten the oil out of the pockets, since I have small hands. I need to clean them out. In way of solvent I Plan to use brake cleaner, throttle/ carb cleaner ?? Thinking the spray kind with the straw, this would clean with some pressure and remove more stubborn sludge & debri, then blow it out and dry with compressed air.
Will Wear Eye Protection for sure, I ALWAYS have it on when I am working on the 1929 !! When I do this part I will grab the face shield as well, that is easier to clean up then I am !!
NO Ball for the front, doesn't the front pocket also lubricate the timing GEAR or something of that sort ??
Figured once I cleaned them out & allowed them to dry I would put some oil back in there and spin the engine by hand a few times around to get the oil back in the bearings and lubed up.
Here is a shot of the Standpipe Pocket (Pocket above the bearing), Oil Pocket w/ standpipe Standpipe Pocket - Rear Used my mirror to get this shot.
Should this horizontal oil line dump directly into the stanpipe pockets or into the side pockets as they currently are, dumping oil into the side pockets NEXT to the Standpipe Pockets. Does not look like the Standpipe Pocket & Side Pockets are connected to allow oil to flow into the standpipe pockets !?
What is the purpose of the side pockets ?? Why dump oil into them??
Ok, had time yesterday to check out the Oil Pockets & Ball Check.
Ball moves easily and freely with out any hassle or trouble. The Pockets however were NASTY to say the least, removed about a 1/8" or more of sludge and grime. They are all clean now.
My question is how is the oil pocket fed oil ?? is it fed from above or by the oil ilne running down the side of the engine. It looks like there are two pockets, looking at this picture Rear Engine Pict The pocket on the left, directly above the crankshaft and main bearing is about 1.00" deep and has a stand pipe in the center, which I understand feeds the main bearing. But do not see how OIL is fed into this pocket. Is it fed from above or should it be fed by the Oil Feed Line ?? Then there is the pocket on the right, this pocket is deeper then the center pocket, and is currently fed by the oil feed line running down that side. Not sure the purpose of this pocket. does not seem to go anywhere or serve a purpose ??
Standpipe Oil Pocket - Front (Rectangular Pocket on Right Side of Picture)
Ok think I got it figured out...
Looks like the Pass Through Holes from the three pockets were CLOGGED.
Cleaned them out with a small wire, and then blew them out with Spray Cleaner. Everything flows smoothly now from the side pockets over. So the Horizontal Oil Line feeds the deep side pocket, as it fills up, passes through the hole and fills up the standpipe pocket, and fills of the third pocket wich is the camshaft pocket. Filled up pocket and oil flows freely across the three.
Ok, so Last night I filled up the Side Pockets with oil, and the oil distributed across the three pocket as I filled it up. I used my mirror to cehck and confirm this.
Once I filled up the rear & front oil pockets and ensured that the oil had distributed evenly, I spun the motor around a few turns to verify oil in the bearings. A little murky oil came out the bottom hole on both front & rear (Ball Check). Then oil ran nice golden brown. I topped off the pockets with oil.
Think that this should be all to do on the Engine Oil Pockets and Ball Check.
PLEASE let me know if I left anything out or should do ANYTHING ELSE in regards to the Engine Oil Pockets & Ball Check ?!?
Had some time last night to install the Wicks. Thanks to Chipper for his instructions and information about removing the Valve Rocker Arms and such. I followed his information and removed both rocker arms. I tried a few methods on installing hte wicks, based on various recommendation on the EASIEST way to install them. I tried installing straight from the package, tried rolling them in my fingertips then installing, tried light coat of oil then installing, and then what I found to be the easiest for me was to put on a light coat of oil then roll in my fingertips, and then roll then install, they slid right in !!
Once they were all installed, I reinstalled the Valve Rocker Arms and made sure the protruding wick tips sat up on the top of hte Push Rod Tips so that the wicks could feed oil to the balls. I torqued everything down and then spun the ngine around a few times and reinspected.
I will check & retorque the Rocker ARms once I run the engine, That is once I am done with my 1929 Engine Timing/ Tune-Up [Plan of Action]
This should be it for the Valve Rocker Arm Wick Installation, If I have missed ANYTHING, or If there is anything that looks wrong, PLEASE let me know !!
Ok, got my Valve Cover back last night
Unfortunately he was UNABLE to weld up the punched holes due to the thinness of the metal. Actually looks like that over time moisture has set on the top inside of hte cover and slowly rusted and eaten away the metal. Maybe why Chevrolet Changed the design and installed the Vents to allow the moisture and air to escape preventing, or at least slowing down the erosion process.
A Few Picts of My Valve Cover Stripped:
Now question is HOW can I fix this. I was thinking that I could use an Epoxy of sorts and BUILD the material back up on the top surface. Basically a nice thin coat, enought to build of the thickenss and fill in the pin holes. I was looking at:
I really like the ones that are Petroleum Resistant and Cure Completely Hard. Do NOT want them coming lose and getting INTO the Engine.
Any thoughts or recommendations ??
Ok, got my Push Rod Cover back last night
It looks great, ready for Prime & Paint, then install new gasket, seal it up and reinstall !!
Few Pictures of the Stripped Push Rod Cover:
Ok, got my Oil Pan back last night
It looks great, ready for Prime & Paint, They did a good job filling int he pin holes and building up the material !!
Few Pictures of the Stripped & Repaired Oil Pan:
Now need to prime & Paint the exterior, then will do a dipper clearance check to make sure dippers DO NOT hit!! Gonna do the Grease Method, fill troughs with grease and then install, spin engine, check clearances, adjustthen I can install gasket and pan, and complete the bottom half of engine !!
Well threw down some primer on the Oil Pan this weekend. Looking Good so far.
Need to do a little touch up on the inside of the pan, then will coat it with either a lite oil coat or some CRC Protectant for now. Then will paint and finish up the outside and be ready to install !!
Well threw down a few Coats of Primer on the Push Rod Cover then a few Coats of Engine Paint from The Filling Station. I am very pleased with the outcome and look of the Push Rod Cover !!
Need to finish up my engine work then I can reinstall the Push Rod Cover with New Gasket.
Got some time this weekend to clean out the Center Main Bearing Oil Pockets. One of the pockets was PACKED FULL of sludge. Took my time and cleaned out each pocket and passage, then Blew it out with Cleaner and let dry. Then Filled the Main pocket up with oil and made sure it flowed across the other pockets and into the bearing. Also turned the engine over a few times to ensure the oil ran freely through the bearing and coated it.
HOPEFULLY This completes my bottom half Clean Up and assessment. Now need to finish up the oil pan, get it painted, then install the Oil Pump Pick-Up Screen & Spring, Oil Pan Gasket, and then the Oil Pan.
Anything Else I missed on the Bottom Half ??
Ok so I cleaned up and applied my first coat of Resin/ Epoxy to the inside of the Valve Cover.
Will let it cure, clean it up, check it apply a second coat, repeat until it is built back up and pin holes gone
Well had some time last night to get back and work on the timing mainly the distributor & wires, after I Painted & Primed some parts, and applied some Resin/ Epoxy to my Valve Cover
I removed the Distributor, rotated it 180 degrees so that the Rotor points to the number with Piston 1 set at TDC (Top Dead Center), under compression, & Flywheel Timing Mark @ 12deg. Here is what my Distributor and Rotor Looks like at this setting: Rotor/ Distributor Pict. I also swapped my mixed up Plug Wires so they are now in the correct order for Firing 1-5-3-6-2-4.
Guess my next step would be to Set the Valve Clearances (COLD).
Ok so I have applied my Epoxy Coat to the Inside of the Valve Cover, Allowed it to cure properly and then cleaned it up.
Applied a coat on the outside to fill in the 2 holes that were punch, sanded and smoothed over the surface
Need to put a prime coat on, check out how it looks and either put a little more filler or prime it over and paint it up for install
Here is a shot of the Valve Cover with Coat of Primer
Decided to Put on a thin coat of Epoxy Sealer to fill in a few left over pin holes and imperfections.
Then I let it cure properly, and put on a thin coat of CRC Protectant to protect from surface rust until it is painted and ready to install.
Ok, Working on my 1929 Engine Timing/ Tune-Up [Plan of Action] I am verifying the Dipper Depth into the Trough. From doing my homework, Reading the Forums & Owners Manuals, etc... It seems that the recommended depth for the Dipper to dip into the trough is roughly 15/64" or .234".
I did simple measuring, using straight edges, calipers, etc... and then confirmed/ verified my numbers by using the grease method Which was fun !!
Would like to know what the proper depth should be for the rod dippers into the oil troughs to ensure proper oiling of the rods...
Got the Oil Pan All Done, so Installed the Spring & Screen on the Oil Pump so that I can start to close it up
Getting Closer to Test Firing !!
Had some time Sunday Night to install the Oil Pan Gasket !!
Did a test fit, made sure the Gasket Fit and laid propery against each other, and no interferences. Installed the Oil Pump Spring and Screen on Oil Pump 1929 Oil Pump (Identification & Replacement) I Read and then ReRead all the recommendations posted above about installing the gasket, and proceded as follows:
1-Cleaned Gasket Mating Surfaces on Oil Pan and on Engine Block, Made sure no debri, film, oil, etc...
2-Applied a thin coat of Grease to the Engine block to assist in holding the Oil Pan Gasket in Place
3-Screwed in my homemade Alignment/ Guide Pins Alignment/ Guide Pins
4-Installed and seated the Side Oil Pan Gaskets, made sure they seated properly against the Bearing Caps wear the End Cork Oil Pan Gaskets will seat against them
5-Applied a Small Dab of Permatex 2 in the Corners where the End Cork Oil Pan Gaskets will seat
7-double checked all Oil Pan Gaskets to ensure holes are lined up, seated properly
8-Slowly & carefully installed the oil pan using the guide pins...
Man they work great to keep the pan straight and in line, 1.00" is optimal length when installing Oil Pan while Engine is in Car
9-Inserted 2 screws to hold and position oil pan in place.
10-Installed Slotted Round head Machine Screws .625" long, with a Flat Washer against Oil Pan, then a Split Lock Washer, gently hand tight to hold pan in place. Screwed in Place 1, Screwed in Place 2, Front bearing End Oil Pan,
11-assured everythign was lined up and in their proper location
12-Tightend up all screws
13-Doubled checked and cleaned up !! Oil Pan Installed
Looks Great !! So Happy this is done, puts me close to test firing the Engine and moving forward with my 1929 Engine Timing/ Tune-Up [Plan of Action]. Another Check on the List of Completed !!
Need to move on the the next step...
Still working on my 1929 Engine Timing/ Tune-Up [Plan of Action]. Waiting on my Spark Plug Thread Chasing Tool to clean up the threads so I can TEst Fire and FInish the TUne-Up, so I decided to Install the Fuel Filter, Screen, & Gasket I got from The Filling Station A Few weeks back.
Some Pictures of the Process:
This was a pretty Quick & Easy job overall...
Took some time to look at the wiring on the 1929, I am trying to figure out HOW the wiring is supposed to be done for the headlights/ lamps on my 1929. I have the Armor Coated Wire from the NEW WIring harness routed to the front and in the wiring hold downs. I know that there is a Grommet that goes into the holes that are in the Radiator shell. These holes measure approx .781" Diameter. Here is a picture of the Wire from the Harness: Wiring for Driver's Side Headlight/ Lamp, it is three wires, with cloth insulation, as well as a metal wrap over the length. As for the Connectors, this is what I have: 3-Wire Housing Solder/ Button End, 3-Wire Housing Wire End I know the wires go thru, get soldered, like button ends for electrical connection, that is no problem. This is the Bayonet Connector Shell Shell/ Housing. I KNOw that slides on the Wire, and then slips over the 3-Wire Housing. Now I also have this piece, one end has a larger opening, and tapers to a smaller opening, we shall call this the Taper Adapter, Taper Adapter - Taper End (Large Opening) & Taper Adapter - Small Opening. Now I also was giving these, Metal Wire Looms/ Guards and told they gover over the wires to the COnnector End, basically run through the hole in the radiator shell w/ grommet, to back of headlight/ lamp. Metal Wire Looms/ Guards, They have a end cap on each end like this End Caps.
I am trying to FIGURE OUT HOW this is supposed to all go together. I have seen some with just the wire going through the Radiator Shell with the ARmour Guard, NO Metal Wire Looms/ Guards, then I have seen some with the Metal Wire Looms/ Guards installed. Also which way and how does the Taper Adapter MOunt, I know it goes on before the Boyenet COnnector, taper end towards bayonet connector or towards the wire ?? If I need the Metal Wire Looms/ Guards how are tehy secured/ mounted to the Connector End of the wire to secure them ?? and do they just run into through the grommet with extra length inside the shell for movement, or are they cut to length and stop at the grommet ??
Any Pictures of how this is SUPPOSED to go together would be greatly appreciated.
Got my Push Rod Cover installed and sealed, letting it sit overnight and set up/ cure. Will take some pictures and post them later.
Spacer seemed to work fine, all new hardware installed as well. Looks good, should be ready to fire up this weekend !!
Well here are some Pictures of the Push Rod Cover Installed:
Very happy with the results and how it looks !! Now to get it Fired up !!
Well needless to say I am estactic at this point. Finished up the initial phase of my 1929 Engine Timing/ Tune-Up [Plan of Action], all the way to the Test Fire Engine/ Warm-Up Phase
Friday Night, Installed the Push Rod Cover, got it all done, let it set up and seal overnight. Saturday Morning went out and double checked all my settings and ensured I had everything ready to go. Since I replaced the Fuel Pump Galss Bowl Screen, Gasket, and installed the paper fuel filter, i needed to make sure that fuel was flowing, as the bowl was empty. I turned over the engine a few times and watched for fuel to the bowl. Nothing... tried a few more times, nothing... scratched my head, and before tearing anythig a part, decided to pull off the glass bowl, double check everything, reseat the gasket, and bowl and tighten it back up. Turned over the engine and fuel was flowing, bowled filled up. One more check around the engine and I turned the key. After a little negotiated the gas, choke, and such the engine sputtered and came to life.
Now need to warm it up to operating temp, and then Hot Set the Valves & set the timing...
It did throw out some smoke and such, but after a few minutes, setteld down and mellowed out. Also need to adjust throttle & idle on the Carb.
Well I have gone back and Hot set the Valves... Sounds good, and seems to run smoothly. I need to adjust carb & set the timing... Which I have questions on, will post to a NEW thread for that.
Onward & Forward !!
Spent a little time out in the garage last night fooling with the timing & timing light. Trying to figure out to get my timing light 3555 INNOVA® Advance Timing Light to work with my antique Chevrolet, seems to keep picking up interference from Plug no 2.
I managed to get it to work for the most part. Anyone know of any TRICKS or TIPS how to SHIELD the pick up from interference ?? On my first attempt I did not see any marking in the timing window :/ so I rotated the distributer one way and the engine began to choke and try to shut off, so I spun it the other way, and it sped up, i went around adjusted teh carb to settle it down, shined the light in the window, and I saw the UC mark just starting to appear in the bottom of the window. took a minute to look over what i had and realized that i could not spin the distributer any more in that direction and still had a ways to go to get the timing in range. I shut her down, and pulled the distributer, spun it one tooth, aligned the oil pump back up, and dropped her back in. doubled checked it over, fired it back up, adjusted idle, and lit up the light and were right about 0 deg timing, UC was right on the point. Made a few adjustments and got the timing to 12 deg and settle the engine down. sounded nice.
Next I got the timing all set to 18 deg and settled the idle down and adjusted the carb. at this point the engine seems to jsut tap along, making soft music seems I have the plug gap, point gap, timing all set per recommendations, and it seems to run and settle in just fine. WIll let it ride for now, and will go back and double check the valves soon and make any adjustments that are needed.
So glad that it is running and sounding SO much better then it was before. I will shoot another video and post here soon, and you can do a before and after soundcheck.
Now to close it up, and move on to the Brakes !!
as you know I have the 1929 assembled and running, however I have noticed that in my drip pan i have oil... doing a little searching and tracing the oil is dripping out of the bottom of the flywheel cover. Some oil is also running from that rear engine area down the oil pan to the low point and dripping into the pan.
Only leaks/ weeps when running, not a steady drip/ run but after running for about 5 minutes i have a good size oil spot in the pan, say 4-6 inches in diameter...
So where is the Oil LEAKING ?? or Weeping ?? could it be from the Rear Main Bearing ?? is there a seal per say to prevent leaking or am i missing something. Could the bearing just not be tight enough ?? meaning taking it apart and verify the clearance in the bearing ??
Well removed teh rear main bearing, the clearance is correct at about .0015" to .002".
Here are some shots of the Bearing Cap. The ball is free and moves freesly when i tilt the cap. Looking at the bearing surface is this a plug or what is this. also what is the fuzz that is in the Rear portion of hte bearing carrier and engine part. Looks like some sort of seal / barrier material ??
Trying to figure out how the oil from the trough above the bearing, feeds into the bearing, where does it go ?? If the plug is there it has to go either out the back or front of the bearing ?!?
Doing a little more Investigation and work, The FUZZ is a Rope Like Gasket to help control the flow of oil from going erratic and out the back. I gently removed the FUZZ to check the drain hole. Boy was it Clogged !! So spent some time with a Can of Brake Clean, Pipe Cleaners, and Compressed Air (Air Compressor). The Drain and reservoir area in the bearing were CLOGGED with grit, grime, sludge... Now it is completely clean. Ran a tes and oi lwill flow freely from the back to teh front, past the ball. Ball was free all along, just did not KNOW that the back half was CLOGGED.
Cleaned it up, shimmed and checked my cleanrances, right about .0015" - .002" with the Plastigage & Torqued down.
Pulled the from and it looks good, cleaned it up clearanced it and put it back in, now to do the center bearing, little more work here since I have to remove the oil pump line...
I starting this weekend working on setting up the brakes on my 1929. Was told that the 1929 had all news shoes on all four corners. So this weekend I removed all four tires, looked over the rods,clevis, pins, etc... New shoes all the way around.
I began by reading and doing my homework... Read the Owners Manual, Service Manual, also 1929 Service News ( It has step by step Adjustment Procedure ), and then scanning thorugh post on here. Now armed and dangerous, I ventured out and began going through the steps. Had a little fun trying to get the Brake tool to line up with the Poportioner on the cross shafts. Cross Shaft & Proportioner Had to work the Cross shafts as they were nice and tigh, been sitting awhile. I know that using the tool should set everything to a neutral position to do the rods. Wondering how the cross shafts should be sitting, when set here, this is what I have Cross Shaft End Location, this is looking towards the rear of the 1929, front to the right. Front Linkage Front Linkage Pict. this look right or off some ??
Once I got it lined up i set the front, was pretty easy. So i Went to the back, when I got to the back something caught my attention, looks like the pads are not square on the drums.Rear Brake - Top Down As you can see one side the rear is in line but the front it offset to the inside. Is it supposed to be like this, thought they should be square and inline ?? If they are supposed to be square, how can i get them there, looking in the Master Parts List there is not left / Right specific shoes, only top and bottom. I removed them and tried various setups to get them to line up but no avail ?!
Here are some pictures of what I had to start with:
Looking for ideas on what to do and should they be square on the drums, and if so how to get them there. What am I missing/ Overlooking.
Well got all my Springs in !!
Brakes are on hold for now, while I revisit the Engine and teh Main Bearings.
Hoping to get this done this week and then back on the Brakes !!
Ok, so I should remove the rope seal from the block & bearing cap. May be the reason WHY the oil is running out the back. Oil can not drain fast enough so it is seeping and over flowing out the back of the bearing into the flywheel cover.
This would be the Flange/ Slinger ??
Assume whomever redid the engine did what they thought was correct, not period correct...
From my reading looks like there was NO Seal on the rear till about 1940 or so. Basically oil is flung around the flinger in the groove, and then runs to the bottom of the groove, and drains down the hole and out the front past the ball. That is unless the ball is stuck or is blocking the path when on incline.
Some picts of the New Springs & Gear
Got New Clevis Pins, Cotter Pins, Springs for front and rear, and a New Clutch Return Spring...
Been working with a few guys from the VCCA (Thanks NC Chip & Andys29) on my brake issue, one issue that NC Chip has pointed out was that the rear Bracket that mounts (riveted) to the Flange seems to be out of place.
This varies from his that seems to be pretty Flat against the flange ?!?
Now Looking at the location of the Proportioner as well and the End Linkages of the Cross shafts and front / rear linkages. Here is a picture of the Proportioner in position using the Brake Gauge/ Tool to set the pin hole at approximately 35 deg.
Proportioner Set-up, now with this setup here is what the crossshaft linkages look like Cross shaft end linkagesThe front is to the left, and linkageis slightly angled to hte front, where the rear is more angled to the rear at a steeper angle. Here is a shot of the front linkage Front Linkage it is almost straight up and down, slight angle towards the front. Then here is the rear linkage Rear Linkage Rear of 1929 is to the left, Linkage is slightly angled towards the rear. hard to get a side shot of this one since it is in a tight spot behind running board.
Trying to figure out if this is correct or even in the ball park. Seems with this setup I can connect all the linkages back up after the brakes are set and the stops and adjustments are made.
Looking at my Rear Brakes, was trying to figure out how to get teh drum off. I have removed the cotter pin & Castle Nut off the shaft. Thought that the Drum would just slide off, but was wrong.
Did Some homework and it seems that the proper way to remove the rear drum is by using a Really Big & Heavy Duty Gear/ Pulley Puller ??
How have you guys done it, and what is the Best/ Safest way to do this, with OUT damaging the drum or anything on the Rear Axle ??
Looks like everyone has their way, seems most use a large hub puller or crum puller. I am going to see if I can rent one from the local parts store before I buy one to make sure i buy what i truly need.
How do you reinstall the brake drum and make sure it is secure and on all the way ?? Does it have to be pressed on or jsut slid on then tighted up and pinned ??
Answer: Replacing the drum is easy. Push it on with the brakes loose and tighten the castle nut and replace the cotter pin. I would look into the torques specs before I tightened it.
Well got my Hub Puller in last night !!
Will post up some picts of what I got. It is stamped as a Hunt brand, anyone ever heard of them. This thing came in an old metal case, weighs a ton. In excellent condition and will long outlast me and the next 12 owners
OK, I am working on getting back to the brakes, mainly the rear.
The front Brakes have been checked, cleaned, etc... Hoping they are done & ready to go.
As for the Rear, From our discussions and looking at the pictures of my rear brake Bracket [External Brake Connecting Rod Support] (As discussed and shown in photos above) and comparing it to the pictures from Andys29 & Chip (in NC) It looks like I need to adjust this bracket to move the brakes shoes towards the outside of the vehicle so as to get them to seat square on the drums.
Question: What is the best way to adjust this bracket with out doing ay damage to it or surrounding parts, like the Drum ?? I need the drum to help know where the bracket needs to go (Alignment). I can talk to it with a BFH and see how that works, or try some sort of clamp/ vise ??
I have to do this to both sides on the Rear...
Well finally got back out to work on my 1929 Brakes, been a While (actually since October).
looking & reading over my previous posts on this subject, I finished removeing all the drivers side rear brake hardware, springs. I adjusted the bracket in question to center it up on the drum, and check alignment. Once i was happy with the alignment i used my hub puller and removed the brake drum. I am only removing one side at at time so that i can use the other side as reference. Granted I am taking TONS of picts, always nice to have a reference
Looks pretty worn and tired after all those years
YES These are C&P Automotive (Billy Possum) Brake Springs !!
First step is to removed paint from all the critical surfaces. Starting with the drum surfaces that the shoes ride on, both inside and out.
as you can see they painted the entire drum, including the threads on the studs !! let the fun begin !!
All Cleaned up and ready to go back to work...
Next I stripped down the hardware, YES the threads both internal and external were painted !! WHAT a PAIN Too remove !! Once stripped down i applied some primer and then a few coats of black. YES I protected the internal and external threads so as NOT to paint them !!
also all New Clevis Pins and Cotter Pins
Then I began to reassemble the components...
I got all the Assemblies together and ready to install...
tomorrow I begin PUtting them back on the 1929 !!
Okay, so today I began putting all the Assemblies back on the 1929 to build a complete working brake assembly !!
I put on the new hardware, new component assemblies. I also greased up moveing/ sliding components to ensure they move freely and easily and also to hopefully prevent corrosion. or at least slow it down some
Looks Great, Made me feel good to see it all come back together !!
I then followed the Repair Manual & G&D Instructions for setting the clearances on the Rear Brakes...
Question: i do NOT have the same distance/ gap all the way around the shoe ?? is this correct, will the shoes change/ take shape after a few miles of use ?? I know the Shoes are pretty flexible...
Once I had everything set I did a few pull checks to see if they engage and seat properly and they grab HARD, stop the axle !! this was all done by hand, none of the linkages are connected yet. Spun axle by hand, pulled level by hand so...
I then checked alignment, as you seen in previous post the shoes were crossed/ crooked on the drums. Not anymore !!
as you can see the shoes look great and are stright with the drums, YES !!
Few Shots of the Hardware Up Close:
Now on the the Passenger Side Rear !!
Ok, well took apart the passenger rear, stripped down the parts, then primed and painted. pretty much same as the drivers side routine.
Adjusted Bracket to proper position
Reassembled and set parts. installed components and then adjusted passenger brakes accordingly.
Now have to wait for the front Trunnions to arrive from Gary Wallace and then I can get to setting the linkages and rods and then testing the brakes all around.
Well ventured out to replace my trunnions...
was not as bad as I thought it would be but also not as easy as I hoped.
Worked on the Drivers side first. Removed the Hex Cap Screw that holds to the outter side support on. As JYDog described had to pry this off. Had to fight with the old Pot Metal Trunnions, yeah they broke and crumbled, but the round portion that went thru the hole in the supports was stuck...
Basically ended up removing the small brake assembly in order to drill out and clean out the rest of the trunnion stuck in the supports. In order to remove this assembly had to remove the castle nut and the front drum. Small Brake Assembly Removed & Cleaned
then I cleaned the threads on the bolt for the brass nut, as well and cleaned & greased the moving components and related parts. Test Fit on Brass Nut I did a test fit of the New T6 Trunnions and found out that there was some interference with the brake part Trunnion Interference this Interference prevented the trunnion from being able to rotate, which is essential in adjusting the brakes, ince this is a pivot point. so to solve this I filed down the corners a bit and success. Trunnion Filed Corners once this was complete I assembled the parts back together Assembly w/o New Clevis Pin & Cotter Pin
I then reinstalled the assembly to the car. was tricky to get the assembly back in since had to find a way to keep the shoes spaced out so that the cam could go between them and still align with the two cap screws that held the assembly in. Found a Hex Coupling Nut of perfect size that solved this issue. Basically spread the shoes apart slid in the coupling nut then slid in the assembly from the back side and pushed out the coupling nut.
once completed, I readjusted and set the brakes.
Then moved on to the Passenger Side, which took half the time, now that I knew what I was doing & how to do it. Installed and reset the brakes on this side.
SO Now have all NEW trunnions installed... now need to move on to finishing the brakes up.
Well spent some time adjusting brakes per the instructions in the Owners manual/ Repair Manual as well as Service News from 1929 :-) think I have everything set and seems to function properly.
TRULY want to make sure they WORK PROPERLY BEFORE I do a test drive and can NOT Stop !! that would be scary !!
Since brakes are to a complete point, still need to do a test and then install all the cotter pins in the linkages and clevis. that is ALWAYS FUN !!
I decided to tear down the bottom of the engine, remove oil pan and clean it out one more time. there was a little sludge, but I can live with that compared to what I started with !!
Also checked the oil pump and innards while I was there. also removed the FUZZ/ Rope Seal on the rear Bearing. Hoping this eliminates or at least REDUCES the oil leak I have. put it all back together, cleaned up the area and then filled it back up with oil...
did a test fire and let it run for a few to get warmed up and circulating.
figured I would do a FINE TUNE on the 1929
so changed out to the NEW wire set I got from Marx Parts, VERY NICE SET, put in the NEW AC Delco C87 gapped at .40, per VCCA Recommendation, changed to my new coil. and fired right up. broke out the timing light and messed with the timing to get it to the recommended 18 degrees. did not sound too happy so dropped it back till it smoothed out, at about 12 degrees or so.
decided to call it a night, and will tinker with the plug gap and timing till it purrs and runs smooth...
Spent some more time messing with the Tune Up, trying to figure out WHY it would not idle or run smooth. Talking with my friends on the VCCA decided to look for vacuum leaks. Using an old timer trick broke out a can of carb cleaner and spray small burst around intake manifold, nothing. That is a sign of relief, then did a few small burst around the carb gasket, and there it was. has a leak all around the gasket. so now need to remove the carb and replace the gasket...
All for another night
Decided to pull the Carb to check the Accelerator Pump since I have to replace the gasket. Looked inside the throat and it was black !! coated !! did a little checking and pulled the bowl, full of fuel, float was at about 3/4" as Spec'd. Tinkered with the Acc pump, it was REALLY LOSE to the point that when I removed the Nut & Washer off the bolt and removed it, the Level for the Acc Pump DROPPED to the bottom. In fact with NO effort I was able to remove Acc Pump Level from the pump. It was BONE Dry !! the Acc Pump looks like it has NOT seen Fuel in YEARS !! I removed the bottom screw from the Acc pump and dry as can be.
Sprayed some Carb Cleaner up in the Tube and it went right back out at me. So there is a Clog in there somewhere. Checked out the other jets & ports, they look good. After a few minutes of the cleaner, I sprayed another burst in the acc pump port and out it came thru the jet in the throat.
So looks like it really need a GOOD CLEANING maybe a Rebuild w/ new gaskets and such.
Decided to clean it up best I could and call it a night
Ok, today after cleaning the carb, I put it back together and hooked the Vacuum Gauge to the Manifold where the Wiper Vacuum Connects.
In doing so I got right about 19-20 Hg on the Gauge
...it seemed to stay steady there
If I rev up the engine should the reading drop, climb or just stay steady ?? This is during Engine Rev, figure it should even back out once at a Steady RPM.
Did a compression check as well to be on the safe side.
I am getting approx. 75 PSI on all 6 cylinders !! so that makes me feel a little better.
Going through my stuff I have for my 1929, I have a spare Carter RJH-08 150S, currently have the Carter RJH-08 136S on the car.
From my understanding this may be an NOS Carb ??
Looking it over there are NO marks from it ever being mounted, Mounting Flange is Clean & can still see machine marks in it. On the back side of the Flange you can NOT see any scratches or surface wear from a bolt or nut or a washer being against it. All the Springs look Pretty Original as well as the Screws, Thread are perfect and no signs of wear. All the tabs and Brackets are still in shape and show no distortion. The Brass bowl looks GREAT, other then tarnish/ coloration from age, shows NO marks from wrenching, banging or anything. Nut looks NEW. Also still ahs the little ? Copper/ Brass ? tag in tack, stamped with 2 shapes/ holes and marked with a J 8 and then a small 8, anyone know what these means ?? Also looks like a Lightly stamped "1" then a BOLD Stamped "50" lightly stamped "S"
Looking in the intake/ Throat it looks clean, can still see the cast surface finish, as well as the acc jet in the back. this thing shows NO sign of wear... did they test these things at the factory before installation/ shipping or just build and ship and let the guys in the field/ factory install and adjust/ test/ tune.
Shot some pictures up and thought I would share and get feedback from those that my have some input or thoughts.
If it is possible I may put the 150S on the car and have the 136S rebuilt and store for a spare, or just sell it to a new home. If not possible I will rebuild the 136s and put it back on the car and sell off this 150S.
AS of tonight, have installed al but 4 Cotter Pins on the Brakes, these I will install once I double check the brakes WITH the wheels on. This way I can fine tune and adjust the linkages as needed.
Also Swapped out the 136s for the 150s, and got it running.
Supposed to be a wet nasty weekend here, so I plan on FINE tuning the engine, double check timing and set the idle. Get all four wheels on, double check the brakes, and finish setting the PARKING Brake. Maybe check the fluid levels in Tranny & Rear. after that should be ready to take it for a ride.
Also pulled the fill plug
for the Tranny, did not see anything there either. Stuck in my finger and same story as rear end. So I decided to pull the plug, a little bit came out.
Here is a shot looking in the fill port to the drain port.
...SHOULD I flush it and then fill it, or just fill it with 600W
removed the bottom rear end cover bolt to see what I could drain, got even LESS from the rear end they the Transmission. So Pulled the cover off and going to make a new gasket. Also going to flush out and clean up the rear end some to remove any sludge and build up in there. Overall it looks really clean Inside Rear End. Rear End Cover This is how it looked when I removed it, notice NO signs of oil on it anywhere !!
Need to get a larger sheet of Cork gasket material to cut a new gasket. also going to make a new gasket for the top of the trans cover, since I removed that to take a look inside.Trans Cover Gasket
Will pick up a quart of 10w30 to flush the tranny & REAR END before I do the new gasket.
Looking at making NEW gaskets vs buying them...
...TRANSMISSION & U-JOINT SET 7026 $27.50 TFS
...REAR AXLE HOUSING COVER GASKET 10009E $9.50 TFS
Always ask yourself, How much is YOUR time Worth...
As long as you have the materials, tools, & skills making a gasket is not hard.
I love making gaskets, like an art form.
I am just going one step further, with the new DIGITAL age, as I am also scanning them in electronically (Digitizing). this way when I need a new one I can pull it up, print it out 1:1 and cut a new one
Also to order the 2 gaskets above would run me $40 MIN !! 2 Sheets of Gasket material $5 ea ($10 total) then about 30 minutes each to trace, cut & punch...
Well I did break down and buy a new Punch set, found one that did up to 1 3/8" and has the most common sizes.
Looks like a pretty well built set, has good reviews on all the sites and even has a nice blow mold case to keep it all together !!
sat down this morning and cut out my gaskets, also a good time to test out my new punch set. Granted I did a few test punch on various materials, various sizes to make sure it would PUNCH the holes and NOT TEAR them !!
Printed out a full size template of my Rear End Cover Gasket (Fel-Pro Cork-Rubber) & my Transmission Top Gasket (Fel-Pro Rubber-Fiber). used a glue stick (Elmer's water soluble) to get the paper template to stick to the gasket material. let them sit for a few minutes. broke out the scissors and rough cut out gaskets, then used the x-Acto to clean them up and fine tune. then used the punch set to punch all the bolt holes.
Transmission Top Gasket
used the original gasket as a guide, as well as the Transmission housing & shifter cover
Rear End Cover Gasket
Had to use the Read End Cover & Rear End Housing to make a template, since the original gasket was cork and destroyed in the removal of the Cover.
They look great, hopefully will get out and get them installed this weekend and get OIL in the Transmission and Rear End as well.
Working on Fine tuning the 1929, I was wondering what the PROPER Diameter for the Vacuum Tubing from the Intake Manifold to the Wiper Valve should be? Currently there is 1/4" OD Copper Tubing run from the Intake manifold to the inside of the cabin, then a piece of rubber tubing from the copper 1/4" where the wiper Valve Goes. Then there is a piece of 3/16" OD Copper Tubing from the inside cabin(also has a piece of rubber tube on the end of it) to where the wiper motor mounts.
That is what caught me up
...on the wiper valve BOTH fittings measure an inside diameter of Approx 3/16" (.190").
...wonder if the previous owner changed the intake line to a larger one ?? 1/4"
looking into the 1929-30 MPL that I have it list two nuts as well
Valve Assembly, Wiper Control (in Instrument Panel)..........344865
...Coupling Nut (3/16")...................................................114962
...Coupling Nut (1/4").....................................................114963
For now I have a 1/8"(M)NPT Pipe plug in the intake manifold to avoid the vacuum leak, when i get back to the wiper motor and assembly I will install 1/4" tubing from manifold to valve, then 3/16" tubing from valve to Wiper motor connection. Will also get the required fittings as well.
Getting ready for my Maiden Voyage and doing a QUICK overview of the electrical system.
Is there ANY type of thermal switch (or device of the sorts) in the generator or in line with the generator and battery ??
Was doing an electrical check on my 1929 Chevrolet, to see what kind of voltage the Generator is putting out.
Battery is disconnected, and using a volt meter on DC. touch the ground to frame and then touch the positive to the output of the cutout switch (from cut out to battery) and get a reading of 5.4 volts ?? same reading if i touch it ground to frame and positive to starter.
-why would i have a volt reading ??
-where would it be coming from ??
with battery connected this reading matches what my volt reading is direct on the battery within a few tenths of a volt.
with battery connected and car running i am getting 8.5-8.9 volt reading on the generator side of generator. is this good, or ??
Does the generator put out a CONSTANT voltage and the third brush vary the CURRENT (AMP) output ??
Think we are ok on the Voltage Reading...
Seems that the Positive Cable was sitting on the Battery case and due to liquid on the case/ possibly acid allowed for a electrical transfer.
Well finally dropped the car back on the wheels and took it out on it's Maiden Voyage !! [color:#000099]This was the first time that the 1929 Has been out under it's Own Power & Able to STOP itself in over 20 Years !!
Also the FIRST Time that I have EVER DRIVEN an Antique car as well.
Needless to say it was Exciting & Exhilarating
...So much had to a FEW extra trips around the block
shot some pictures Sunday Afternoon
Out on my Maiden Voyage yesterday the car ran good, shifted pretty smooth, from what I could tell. My question is when I start to release the clutch (letting off the pedal) WHEN in the path should the clutch engage ?? it seemed like the clutch was NOT engaging until the Pedal was almost all the way up to resting position.
I have gone through my Owners Manual & Repair Manual. Pedal is adjusted to it is 3/4" from floorboard, also Approx 1/2" - 3/4" of travel before clutch begins to disengage.
First time driving an Antique Car so not sure HOW the clutch should feel. I know I drive a modern 5spd everyday and have for over 20 years, know the older cars function very different, and want to be sure, and adjust anything that may need it.
in order to check that would require removal of the transmission, which would encompass the u-joint/ drive shaft & unbolting from the engine ?!?
Question in regards to the Clutch Disc itself
Is there ANY way to see and check the Clutch Disc while installed in the car, so as to verify the condition of the Clutch Disc itself ??
Talked to the previous owner, and since he inherited the car from his wife's uncle (when he passed) and the Drivetrain was assembled and in the Chassis, he does not know.
I will install the clutch pedal return spring, since there is NOT one currently installed (have one when I ordered Brake Springs), then adjust the clutch nut per manual.
Then another Test Drive, man what a bummer, have to go out and drive it again ( Woo Hoo )
ok, so got a chance to do a quickie trip around the block a few times on sunday afternoon.
I will have to say with the spring installed and the pedal adjusted per the manual, it drove so much better. The clutch felt more natural when working it. just need more practice on the downshifting...
now need to break in the brakes so that they can be fine tuned and adjusted
Ok, did some research and reading in my manuals and on here. It seems that the standard setting for a generator is output of about 10 AMPS. I am going to try and fine tune the generator and work on the electrical on my 1929, 6v system.
Everything i read talks about setting the output to 10 AMPs but I will be using a Volt Meter, so What VOLTAGE output should i be Looking for and Setting to ?? 7.2-8.0 Volts ?? and at what RPM, I will have to get a tachometer as well, so that I can coordinate this all.
What should the output be at idle ?? or is it irrelevant at idle ??
Any tips trick, as I want to make sure the Third Brush will be set correctly for the proper output.
I am fine tuning my 1929 and am in the market to get a tachometer to be able to check the engine, generator, etc... RPM's
Anyone have any recommendations or experience with certain brands/ models ???
I was looking at something like this CyberTech Digital Photo Tachometer Pretty Simple, Cheap, and gets good reviews ??
...it is a NO contact item
...place reflective strip on surface, run it and check RPM's
Also does anyone have a Mounted Tach in their Antique/ Vintage ??
May be interested in using one inside for driving & monitoring.
...Does it have to be 6v, or will a 12v one work ??
...Best way to connect for accurate readings !?
Question about Setting Valves...
In my 1929 Chevrolet Repair Manual it states .008" gap for BOTH Intake and Exhaust Valves.
In my 1929 Inst for Oper and Care it states .006" gap on Intake, .008" gap for Exhaust.
With this difference, what SHOULD be Used. I set mine via the 1929 Inst for Oper and Care with .006" gap on Intake, .008" gap for Exhaust.
I did STOP engine and do warm adjustments at that time, I tried to do it while idling, but guess it takes some practice and skill not to damage your feeler gauges and adjust.
Fine tuning my 1929 and wondering what the recommended RPM at Idle is ??
Per 1929 Chevrolet Repair Manual
Quote Idle Engine Speed
Idle engine speed is regulated by the thottle lever adjusting screw. This acts as a stop for the throttle lever and prevents the throttle valve from closing too tight and allowing the motor to stop when the accelerator is released. With the hand throttle on the instrument board closed, set the throttle lever adjusting screw so that the motor will run approximately 300 revolutions per minute. If the motor runs too fast, back the adjusting screw out. If too slow, turn in until the proper speed is obtained.
I used a laser tach today and see that mine is idling around 850 rpm... Tested by Revolutions of Fan Blade, or is there a better place to check revolutions ??
I did a double check and checked the RPM based on the Crankshaft Pulley.
Crankshaft: ~600 RPM
Fan: ~900 RPM
Generator Pulley: ~1200 RPM
When I adjust the RPM to less then 600, it starts to sputter n stutter...
What am I missing, doing wrong, need to check, adjust ???
I did double check and adjust the valves HOT
Well in working on my 1929 When I went to take it out on the Maiden Voyage I discovered that I could NOT secure the doors shut, not all four anyways. As I was Missing a few striker plates and a few Cover plates. Cover Plates are not required to secure the door, more aesthetics than anything.
Talked with few Antique Chevrolet Parts Suppliers, and none had any in stock. So I ventured out to local shops to see if they could reproduce the parts for me. I created drawings for the build. Found a few sheet metal shops willing to build me some cover plates, since i had drawings and could provide files to feed the info to the cutters.
Got my first samples back a few days ago. Had them laser cute the pattern out, then me do the breaks (bending)
have to say I am very impressed with the results. I am going to countersink the holes to match the wood screws that hold them in. so when they are installed they will be FLUSH !!
Here are some shots Green part is the existing one I pulled off to create my drawings & patterns. Metal color are the produced parts. can see the flat pattern then the bent final part.
In case you are wondering, 'Where do those go'
Other shop should have my rough machined striker plates here soon... I hope they turn out just as good !! those will be complete ready to install, other than painting...
I am looking for someone who can Rebuild 1929 Rocker Arms Properly as I Need to have the Rocker Arms on my 1929 Chevrolet 194 Rebuilt. They need to be Welded up, then ground & shaped PROPERLY. Possible hardened as well. Would like someone who is experienced and will provide a QUALITY end result that will last me a LONG time. Any leads would be appreciated.
I talked with Bill (Billy Possum) over @ C&P Automotive, they no longer provide there Rocker Arm Rebuild Service as they are unable to find anyone locally that can rebuild the Rocker Arms with Quality Results.
Once I can find someone to do this service I will have my Rocker Arm Assemblies Rebuilt w/ New Shafts, Bushings, Springs, Clips, Wicks. From what i can see the Valve Adjustment Screws & Locking Nuts are in great shape, they all move freely and are NOT marred up. If the Rocker Arm Place can do this would like to have it all done in one shot so the bearings can be reamed to fit the shafts properly. I will be getting the parts from Bill, or one of his outlets
Need to debate if I want to PULL the Head and have the valves check and maybe the seats cleaned and filed for proper valve seating. and also look at new Spring Caps & Keys. Maybe NEW Valve Springs as well. Also will put in NEW Valve Push Rods & Push Rod Ends as what I have now is a mixed bag of the original 2 piece and some later one piece rods.
Also what about replacing the Valve Tappets ?? any way to determine if the ONE I have are worth keeping or need replacing ??
ANY and ALL help is appreciated... yeah the Engine was NOT REBUILT it was OVERHAULED, as we all know from reading my threads...
Ok found a few places that are experienced in the Realm of resurfacing the Rocker Arms. Also they will chrome plate the shaft or replace it will one of C&P 's Chrome Moly jobs. They tumble the rocker arms to reduce stress that has built up, which makes sense. they build up the surface and then contour the rocker arm valve face. they also will ream out the rocker arms and install new bushings, the bushings will be grooved and hole drilled for the wick feed. The bushing will be reamed to mount properly on the shaft. I am also going to replace the springs and clips. a few of the springs are beyond shot !! Will also put in new WICKS.
Man I am excited !! now just to get time to remove them and send them out. Said about 3 weeks turn around, so gives me time to do other things as well... ELECTRICAL
doing a quick look over the Rocker Arm Assembly... Looks like somewhere along the line someone welded some up, well tried to. Can anyone confirm that these are the RIGHT rocker Arm Assemblies that should be on my First Generation 1929 ??
Here are some shots of the Rocker Arms:
This is the First Cylinder from 3 angles
Rocker Arms to Valve Stem Head on Pictures
Shot of the Top Half
Also seems that the Arm can EASILY be moved around, not just side to side, but they can be rocked on the shaft [left to right]. Telling me the bushings are SHOT !!
On the Bright side, the Adjusting Screws & Nuts LOOK Great, they all spin and turn easily and threads look great. So these should be GOOD to GO !!
Pulled my Rocker Arm Assemblies off today and decided to check the TIPS out. Took some pictures, and then measured the Tips at their thickness point on the LEFT side of rib then the RIGHT side of the rib.
With a closer look you can tell that the TIPS were done with some sort of Brass/ Bronze Material, or at least that coloration and YES it is really soft, tested it with a file, real easy to file and really SOFT. Was done a while back as you can tell from the pictures. They are pitted, distorted and worn out, looks like the Valve Stems have been BEATING THEM UP !!
The numbers say it all:
Rocker NumberThickness Lt - . Rt (Diff)
Cylinder 1 Exhaust:---.278 - .271 (.007)
Cylinder 1 Intake:----.315 - .324 (.009)
Cylinder 2 Intake:----.270 - .276 (.006)
Cylinder 2 Exhaust:---.266 - .284 (.018)
Cylinder 3 Exhaust:---.259 - .276 (.017)
Cylinder 3 Intake:----.274 - .279 (.005)
Cylinder 4 Intake:----.247 - .249 (.002)
Cylinder 4 Exhaust:---.286 - .267 (.019)
Cylinder 5 Exhaust:---.245 - .261 (.016)
Cylinder 5 Intake:----.253 - .294 (.041)
Cylinder 6 Intake:----.279 - .278 (.001)
Cylinder 6 Exhaust:---.251 - .268 (.017)
Now a Picture Says a THOUSAND WORDS...
Smooth and Round they are NOT !! Well not anymore...
Also Checked the Bushings...
They are Split style bushing. You can see there is some pitting and wear in the bushing, all are the about the same.
They is some play, and some are a little Sloppy
So NEW bushings as well...
Shafts, well they are a little pitted in places, and show some wear
So either some NEW C&P Shafts OR resurface & grind the ones I have (SAME COST)
When I go to have my Rocker Arms Rebuilt here soon I am going to double check the rest of the TOP HALF of the engine as well. Figure would be a good time to check tappets and replace if needed...
Is there ANY WAY to Check the Valve Tappets ?? For Fit Wear, etc... How can I tell if they are OK/ good or NEED to be replaced ??
Number Two on the TOP HALF Engine List is replacing the Valve Push Rods & Push Rod Ends, as of now I have a mix of Original 2 Piece Valve Push Rods & Push Rod Ends and some Single Piece Valve Push Rods. Would like them all to be original style and this will also ensure that they are straight. Going to go with the 'Billy Possum' C&P Automotive ones. 'These rods are exactly as the original rods in appearance, but are induction heat treated on the ends (about ¾”) to give longer life. The push rod ends are case hardened as were the originals'
Also would be a C&P Item 'One of the most common engine parts to fail. Typically the surface bearing on the camshaft fails due to metal fatigue. These case hardened tappets are ground with a shallow radius on the bottom to cause rotation, essential to long tappet life.'
I will do a VISUAL Inspection when i pull the rocker arm assemblies off. pull the rods, check em and check the Tappets/ Valve Guides for wear n tear and any flaking or deterioration.
Yeah not putting HIGH mileage on it, but want to make sure it is going to run properly and for a long time, and want to check everything while i am in there and it is apart. Not having to tear it all apart later because I did NOT check while I had the chance.
Now that I am having my Rocker Arms resurfaced & rebuilt, I am going to double check the rest of the TOP HALF of the engine as well.
Is there ANY WAY to Check the Valves (Intake & Exhaust), Valve Springs, Valve Spring Caps, Valve Keys?? Want to make sure they are in condition to run & operate. Any way to I cad tell if they are GOOD or NEED to be replaced WITH OUT Removing the HEAD ??
Yeah I am NOT going to drive my car a million miles in a year, but i do WANT it to RUN Properly and not have to be worried about something breaking or coming apart. yeah I KNOW it is an Antique and poo happens. just trying to be preventative and proactive. Since I am in there Want to check out the other parts as well !!
Figure look it all over check it out, assess it, and replace it if needed...
could also do a Leak down Test, see IF the Cylinders will hold Compression. I know that each cylinder has about 75 PSI when last checked. NEED to see if it will hold compression and how long it can or how long till it drops x amount of PSI.
Will also do a GOOD LOOKY SEE and see if there are ANY VISIBLE Sings of Wear n Tear. Double checking the CAPs n Keys.
Ok Went out Last night and looked at the Valves, Springs, Retainer Caps, And Retainers (keys)
Looking at them the end of the Valves look great, BUT I do not see the Keys that look like the picture on TFS of C&P !?
Are these the right valve Caps & Retainers on my 1929 ??
From the looks, they look like they have either been REBUILT or REPLACED, in the parts box I got with the car, there was a used valve or two in there and 7 Valve Springs. No Retainer Caps or Keys.
Intake & Exhaust Valve
Material: Extruded Steel
Head Diameter Nominal: 1 11/32
Stem Length: 4 23/32
Stem Dia: 5/16
Style of Stem Mod: Key
Tappet Clearance: .006 Hot Int & .008 Hot Exh
Spring Pressure: 45 lb Valve Closed
Valve Lift: .277
Are Stem Guides Removable: Yes
Are Oversize Valve Stems Made: No
Overhead Valve Lubrication: Yes
(Consider they are the same valves) Page breaks it into TWO columns, one for Intake one for Exhaust.
Here are some numbers I Pulled from my 1929 Hydrid Head tonight:
Intake & Exhaust Valve
Head Diameter Nominal: unknown
Stem Length: unknown
Stem Dia: .340
Style of Stem Mod: Collar
Valve Lift: ~.217
Outer Dia: 1.323
Wire Dia: .169
Cap OD: ~1.27
Cap Thickness: ~.108
My Numbers for Pictures
Stem Length: ~2.123 Valve Closed
Spring Length: ~1.801 Valve Closed
Compared to the STOCK numbers previously posted in BLUE
Larger Stem Dia
...means valve bores were bored out/ modified to fit new valve stem dia
Did a Valve Check today...
Removed Rocker Arms and then Measured w/ My Calipers the distance from the machined Head surface to the top of the stem. Surprisingly all are VERY close in Numbers:
Numbers goe with my RED Dims per my Pictures
Cylinder 1 Exhaust:...2.128
Cylinder 1 Intake:....2.128
Cylinder 2 Intake:....2.129
Cylinder 2 Exhaust:...2.129
Cylinder 3 Exhaust:...2.121
Cylinder 3 Intake:....2.103 <-- LOW
Cylinder 4 Intake:....2.136 <-- HIGH
Cylinder 4 Exhaust:...2.121
Cylinder 5 Exhaust:...2.130
Cylinder 5 Intake:....2.128
Cylinder 6 Intake:....2.124
Cylinder 6 Exhaust:...2.123
Cylinder 3 Intake was a little low, but IF they machined the valve seat, maybe this one had LESS material removed ?!? Where as Cylinder 4 Intake maybe had MORE material removed ? ?
Compare this to the Info Posted By Steve that the 1929 had a Stem Length of 2.000, would mean that my valve stems are just 0.125 taller/ longer than stock...
Figure: They SEAL & SEAT, Seem to function Properly...
I can live with that, unless there should be some concern.
Did some calculations and layout this morning... Used the information I pulled from my Engine as well as the Info provided by members here. Shaft Centerline is Approx 1.77 Inches above Machined Head Surface.
Based on the STOCK numbers provided by Steve:
Stem Above Head: 2.000
Rocker Arm Angle Valve Open:-1.50 deg
Rocker Arm Angle Valve Closed:7.50 deg
Based on the Current Configuration:
Stem Above Head: 2.125 (Avg)
Rocker Arm Angle Valve Open: 2.32 deg
Rocker Arm Angle Valve Closed:11.50 deg
Based on this information going from stock to the current configuration, the Valve Stems are approx .125" higher than stock, which changes the angle of the Rocker Arm by Approx 4 deg. and requires the adjusting screw to be adjusted by approx .11 in. Push Rods remain stock length.
Now does a 4 degree INCREASE on the Rocker Arm ANGLE have that much of an adverse affect on the operation of the engine ?!?
Remember this engine has only been idled by the previous owner, never put under load until i received it. I have put about 5 miles on it, and it seems to run great. Think once i get the rocker arms rebuilt it will be even better.
At this point I am going to leave the Spring Assemblies alone UNLESS there is Concern ?!?
I got Picked Up My Engine Hoist Yesterday, Torin 2 Ton Model...
Getting closer to pulling the Driveline out
Want to make a Wood Stand to sit the Engine in/ On when I remove it. I was thinking to make one to sit the Driveline on the 3 Original Mounting Points, HOWEVER I want to be able to remove the Bell Housing so I can check the flywheel and Clutch disc. So I am Thinking that I can build a Simple Wood Frame Set-Up that I can sit the Drive line down on and support it via the two side rails where the oil pan sits ?!? Figure I would build something like this:1929 Engine Stand/ Mount
Figure I could build this mostly scrap wood from shop, screw it all together and then mount it securely on a 24x48 piece of 3/4" thick or so Plywood. Then I could sit on a set of my Harbor Freight 1000 lb Dollies so that I can push it around and work freely on it.
Was also thinking of putting a small block on the back of the Plywood to support the Transmission WHEN it is bolted on, to reduce the OVERHUNG load and ANY stress it may impose on the Engine and Crankshaft !!
This concept will also allow me to freely work on the front of the engine as well as the top. then also paint everything when re assembled. FULL ACCESS to all except Bottom...
Any thoughts, Input, Ideas, are greatly welcomed and Appreciated... First time doing this with an Antique so not sure of the UNKNOWNS.. NOT YET ANYWAYS !!
ok, here is what i am thinking of building for my drivetrain, if it will work is another story!!
May need to reinforce the rear end where the Transmission sits, but the dolly under may handle it just fine. considering the transmission will not be on there all the time.
Started up on the Stand...
Where I am right Now:
Ok, got the bulk of it built last night...
Ready to drop the engine on it...
Will build the Transmission Support when I get the Driveline out and set on here. To make it sure it is right.
Well spent some time prepping to remove the drive train in my 1929. Already removed the Manifold assembly and the Carburetor.
First Removed the hood & Radiator. Then started to remove the surrounds. Removed both side Engine Splash Pans (What a Pain to remove the hardware) Also had to drop & remove the Exhaust to remove the drivers side pan. Also removed front bumper & apron, mainly to gain better access to the front. Also removed Starter & cable. Disconnected wires to generator and temp sensor.
Hoping to get some time to remove the oil pressure line & fuel line. Think that removes all connections to the engine. Need to cut out my blank off plate so i can remove the transmission top cover. then will need to Disconnect speedo cable, unbolt transmission from cross shaft, and then unbolt the rear cover of the u-joint housing.
Final step will be to unbolt the drive train from the frame. cardboard up the firewall for protection. and get ready to pull it out !!
A Lot of work but first time doing this so taking my time and trying to be safe and precarious !!
Thought I would share some pictures...
All I have to do is remove the distributor and the drivetrain is ready to come out ( I Hope )
Ok, got it all strapped up and ready to pull...
Did an initial lift to see how the engine would raise... adjusted the straps to get the rear to lift first and more level.
Got the Driveline pulled out !!
Slow and steady !!
Now will build the Transmission Support for the stand, and get ready to do some work...
Well got back out to the garage for the first time in MONTHS...
made me some transmission guide pins so that i can pull the transmission from the engine.
Transmission Guide Pins
Got the drivetrain pulled, and went to remove the fan blade and noticed that ONE of the bolts holding it in was not securely tightened. When i went to remove it it just snapped off !! the other one came out easily.
Also noticed that the pulley had 4 tapped holes. Are four tapped holes in the pulley correct for a 1929 Pulley, considering it has a 2 blade fan ??
I was thinking of just swapping and bolting in the other two holes in the pulley but Looking closer it looks like one of the other tapped holes also has a broke off bolt !!
Know to remove the pulley you have to remove pump and press it off. any thoughts ?>? seems only solution is to remove pump press off pulley and drill and tap out broken bolts...
I did debate on upgrading to the Maintenance Free Water Pump a while back so will revisit that aspect as well. Also saw that you can get a Replacement Pulley for about $30 plus shipping from The Filling Station.
Going to play with the Pulley and see IF i can drill it out and tap it. Fun part will be keeping the Pulley From turning.
Yeah, thinking of it makes sense. Dry Seal, Dry Shaft = Friction
Once it gets in service and working, should spin happily !!
here are some shots of the Pump I picked up Water Pump TFS
Went out and pulled the pulley off, thanks to my neighbor and his collection of pullers. Was a pretty easy job with the right tool, used a 4" 3 jaw puller.
Then removed all the hardware holding the cover on, then gently with a small putty knife worked my way around the edges to break the seal of the RTV... WHAT A PAIN !! Head on Shot
Spent some time cleaning up the cover & the face of the block
Anyone Identify this, looks like a seal of the sorts. It spins around
Also is this the oiler ? Oiler Pict 1?
This is a close up of the Timing Gear, Looks like it is pretty new, so figuring it was replaced on the engine overhaul.
Timing Gear Close Up 1
OK, finally back into the car again, nice weather and some time...
Trying to figure out how to mount/ install the thrower
Thrower, Crankshaft Oil.............835603
Here is how it was mounted/ installed when i removed the cover:
is this correct, it has a keyway slot in it. does not seem right.
how does it spin ? i know the cover goes on then the pulley
seems like it would just sit there while the shaft spins since there is no drive or anything to make it spin.
Is there a way to know what the original interior color for my 1929 4 Door Sedan was ?? is that part of the Job No or Body No?
Job No: 8850
Body No: N 7762
I know this helps with proper exterior color(s)
looking at what color scheme to do the interior. have seen both the tan interior palette & the green for my body paint scheme. the tan looks REALLY nice, and the Green is well, way too much green. nothing like green on green on green with a side of green. wish there was a grey I think that might actually look pretty nice !!
I have the Swatches and price sheet from Hampton Coach now LeBaron Bonney. great people to deal with and talk to.
To have more fun, I have an early 1929
Based on LB/HC Options are:
Looking at handles for my 1929 4 Door that Ted is working on. Doing my research on Proper Window handles for the Rear Quarter Windows.
Here is what I have in the car now:
Quarter Window handles in Car NOW
These were in the car when I got it, and show their age, pitted, cracked, crumbling. Classic T- Style handle.
So when looking for new one, I checked out The Filling Stations website, and found they listed these for the 1929 Quarter Windows. Part No GR-485 TFS Quarter Window Handles
These are Shortened Window handles, same ones used on the Windshield. Talking to the guys there they say THESE are the CORRECT ones for the 1929, when I asked about mine having the T handles, they said someone must have swapped them out years ago. But the GR-485 is CORRECT for the 1929.
Now when I talk with Gary or Lonny they say the T handles are correct.
Can you guys assist me with the Correct ones so i can get them ordered.
Now could ONE use the Shortened Windshield Handle and it work ??
seems the sourcing for the handles is SLIM PICKING, mainly the T-Style and the Locking Exterior Handles.
I know TFS and those places list them, BUT none in stock and NOT sure IF they will get anymore in as they are looking for new sources.
as most of you know my car, 1929 Chevrolet 4 Door, is up In Mass with Ted [Chistech]. he is doing some structural work as well as the roof and interior. While it is away i was to be reworking the Drivetrain. Pull the engine & Transmission, strip down, clean up paint, put on rebuilt Rocker Arm Assemblies, new push rods, caps, etc...
Well i finally got around to working on it, yeah been about 6 months.
Started blasting some parts, priming and then painting.
Round one was the pedals:
Doing 2 coats of primer, then 2 top coats of Gloss Black
Puzzle ?!? Wait a minute, I am no good At puzzles... Hopefully the Pictures I took will help put Humpty Dumpty back together ?!?
Here are some Pictures of Parts 1 Painted Up:
Parts 1 Painted 01
Batch 2 was blasted yesterday at work, until machine burst a line and I got a shower in Glass Beads...
Blasted a few more parts today...
machine was fixed and cleaned, and now works like a champ, took me 20 minutes to blast and clean all these parts to bare metal !!
1929 2 Blade Fan
I did my best to straighten it out and such BEFORE Blasting, so When i Paint it should be OK
Misc Brackets for: Splash Pan, Carburetor, & Radiator Elbow
Misc Parts 01
1929 Air Cleaner
1929 Air Cleaner 01
Tonight will be prime and paint... Assuming all are Gloss Black
well got all those part painted up and looking nice:
Fan Blade 01
1929 Air Cleaner
Now on to the larger parts...
Horn & Bracket
Last will be
OK, since i am blasting and paint parts I have completed most of the small general components for the engine. I am moving on to larger assemblies/ components. Horn, Generator, Starter, etc...
Horn is topic of this Discussion:
I have a Klaxon 8C and was wondering about best way to go about rebuilding/ painting it. it works great no issues, but missing paint and such.
1- Just rough sand the surface and cone, then apply a few fresh top coats of gloss black paint ??
2- tear it down, strip it to bear metal, prime, paint, cure, reassemble ? and if so anything i should be weary of or know before tearing it apart and breaking it down. looks to be pretty simple in build and components.
Well got home today and started to analyze the horn, there is some rust on the inside of the horn and at the base...
so part it will come, clean, blasted, primed, painted
clean up the guts, oil the bearings, assembly and test
hopefully it well look good and sound good !!
Well here are some pictures of the Horn as it sits:
now to start tearing it down
there are 3 gaskets in the horn
1- Two of the same shape, size, & material: one on each side of the diaphragm. One was destroyed on removal, the other one came out in one piece. this is great so that i can replicate and make 2 new ones. what MATERIAL should they be made out of ?? they look like a paper material. I was thinking of using Fel-Pro Karropak but how thick ?? 1/16 or 1/32 or 1/64 ??
2- Gasket between the Mounting Plate with the Electronics & Motorand the rear cap. This one came out whole, but was rolled, looks to be rubber like, black in color. can i use a thin rubber material to make the gasket or what material would be best here.
ok, so on to the parts:
Pieces ready for Blasting/ Clean Up
Pieces all Cleaned Up
All Clean 01
Now to Prime & Paint
Well took some time and painted it all Gloss Black
Now to cure, then get new hardware and assembly it all back together
Test and see IF it will still work
Decided to go with some karropak via Fel-Pro at 1/64" thick. this should suffice for the paper gaskets. At least give it a try.
So Yesterday I decided to blast, prime and paint my Crankcase Front End Cover on my 1929.
Removed From Engine:
Crankcase Front Cover 01
Seems like most of the paint was removed via dripping coolant from the water pump.
I bead blasted the cover, and cleaned it up for prime n paint
Crankcase Cover Cleaned Up 01
I then Primed two coats, then Painted 2 Coats...
Cover Painted Up 01
NO I did NOT Prime and Paint the backside of the Cover, since it will see oil and such, and did NOT want to chance paint peeling/ flaking off in the cover and getting into the Oil or Gears.
As you know I have been tearing down my engine, painting pieces and parts. I am now ready to start work on the Manifold Assemblies. I laid it out on the bench for disassembly and pictures. this way I have some before and after.
Manifold Assembly 01
Intake Manifold 01
Exhaust Manifold 01
Prime & Paint Question for Intake Manifold
I am going to blast it to bare metal, Should I Prime and Paint or Just Paint ??
Going to Paint it using TFS Engine Paint that i have for doing the engine as well.
on the Exhaust Manifold I am using KBS Coatings Xtreme Temperature Primer and Paint Will blast it, prime it twice, paint it twice then cure it !! interested to see how it comes out.
Alright got the Intake Manifold Blasted, wow, looks like new:
Anyone know what the the "SM 25" stamped on the Manifold Means ??
Alright got the Intake Manifold Painted all Up
The Part Number 835737 is stamped on there twice, then the Chevrolet Bowtie, and SM 25.
Better Painted Pict in the Daylight
Blasted up the Exhaust Manifold today...
Looking a LOT better than before (see above pictures)
Now to prime and paint !!
Got my Exhaust Manifold All Primed up.
I am using the KBS Coatings Xtreme Temperature Zinc Primer, goes on smooth and clean. Following Directions from KBS, I applied 2 light coats of the Primer.
Exhaust All Primed Up:
Exhaust Manifold Primed 01
Have to say with the Primer on it looks REALLY NICE and CLEAN !!
Next was Top Coat, this is the KBS Coatings Xtreme Temperature Paint, I decided to go with Jet Black, I know, I know it is NOT correct, but I like how SHARP it looks and the contrast against the Chevrolet Grey Engine color, plus will go nicely with all the BLACK Accessories on the Engine. YES, they make a Cast Iron Gray As well that many of you may like to make it look like RAW Metal. KBS Xtreme Temperature Coating Colors
Exhaust All Painted Up:
Exhaust Manifold Painted 01
I like the way it looks, have to say I am pretty impressed with the outcome so far.
Now let it dry for 8 hours then will heat cure per instructions to FULLY CURE the product. Supposed to withstand temps up to 1200 F once it is fully cured. Will see how it works and how long it will last.
Make Horn Gaskets
made the 2 Paper Gaskets using Fel Pro 1/64 Thick Karropak Material, the Rubber Gasket out of Fel Pro 1/32 Thick Rubber-Fiber Material.
Using my Hole Punch, & X-acto Knife, also digitize the templates so i have them for future use, like all my gaskets !!
Cleaned up the Commutator
Oiled the Bearings
Checked all Wiring
Chosen for corrosion resistance
3x 1/2" ones for top half, 3 3/4" ones for lower half to hold bracket
Klaxon Tag Installed
Assembled Horn 01
Test & Tune
Should be a Short video of Horn Working
[color:#FF0000]!! There should be a PLAY button in top right hand corner !![/color]
When dissembled I loosened the adjust screw until the motor turned freely by hand with out resistance or clicking the diaphragm. when completely assembled i turned the adjust knock a few clicks at a time until the horn was at its loudest and not dragging or stalling the motor.
well in looking through my parts i noticed that my Clutch Adjusting Eye Bolt was bent, and some of the threads are gone, even chasing them did not cure the issue. Hard to get nut to go passed a certain point.
So i went on a venture to find a replacement, which none to be had, so I had to make one !!
I looked at standard Eye Bolts, noting that the stock one is 3/8-16. Found several options but the eyes were all too large. The stock eye is about 5/8" dia, the ones I found were either .90" or 1.00" diameter. Also the stock eye bolts on the shelf were NOT fully threaded. Then I stumbled across what I needed in the way of a 3/8-16 turnbuckle !! they are completely threaded and have 3/8-16 threads along with a 5/8" diameter eye, granted they are closed.
They have a 10" & 16" turnbuckle, went with the 16" as the screws were long enough, the 10" screws are shorter than the stock, 16" are longer than stock but can always cut them to length.
Marked up Turnbuckle Bolt using Stock Clutch Bolt as a Guide, then Used my Angle Grinder to trim and cut to length, then filed to clean up threads and edges.
New Clutch Bolt vs Stock Clutch Bolt
Stock besides New Clutch Bolt
Ready for Install
New Clutch Adjusting Eye Bolt COMPLETE
Well as most of you know, Ted [chistech] has been working on my 1929, doing many things including BUT not limited to, installing complete interior, vinyl roof, repairing and replacing some wood, doing some metal work, installed all new handles, cranks, escutcheons, window, rubber, seals, etc.
car was delivered back here on Thursday am, started unloading and unpacking around 5am, and in the garage it went. Ted & Wife headed off to Hershey and me off to work, after a power nap of course. Then rolled in Matthew to water and blow us around. 6+ inches here, flood, trees down. spent 2 days cleaning up, still not done, then some sunshine on Monday, so rolled the car out, opened it up and decided to apply some scotchgard auto to the new upholstery and carpet. figured this should help preserve the fabric some.
also was a GREAT opportunity to get some photos of the car, outside and inside.
A Few Pictures of the Outside Doors Open:
Few of the Inside:
Here is link to the Ted Library
...photos from restoration, many that have been posted on here in chats, but a lot that have not yet been posted or shared.
1929 Ted Restoration Library
Got any questions, feel free to ask, Ted or Myself will gladly answer
Feedback & Comments are also welcome
well finally got back out to the garage and pulled the transmission from the driveline assembly. I pulled the driveline back before i sent the car up to Ted (chistech) to do my interior and roof. read through all my notes and questions on here, then away i went.
I used my engine hoist to leverage the transmission and serve as a second set of hands. used my endless loop sling as well.
You can see my homemade guidepins to ensure i was going straight out.
Took some shots of everything coming apart:
Took a little convincing to get them to separate...
Pulled out the Clutch Plate to inspect:
Does this look ok ?? was thinking of replacing it with one from C&P Auto (Billy Possum)
all the rivets are secure and tight.
Some pictures of the Pressure Plate Assembly:
Should i just clean this up and reinstall when ready, or should i break it down, clean springs, and then repaint the assembly minus the plate surface ??
Now the Flywheel...
Looks like the Ring was replaced as ALL the teeth on the gear look great no chips.
Then removed the Transmission Support from the back of the engine and cleaned up my mess...
Well ended up blasting all the trans parts, as the pressure plate and such were crusty and rusty.
View of the Trans Assembly Tore Down and Ready for Clean Up
All the Parts Prepped and ready for Blasting. Used Tape to cover the Friction surfaces, where the clutch runs. want to protect this so i do NOT have to machine it.
Notice that the Ring has been replaced sometime before
Trans Bracket Engine Side
Here are the parts fresh from Blasting... Only about 1.5 hours of work, well worth it, i was happy with the outcome:
Pressure Plate Spring Side Man What a Difference
I Then primed all the parts up, did not take any pictures of that process, sorry... but you can see the primer outline on the cardboard made sure that ALL parts were completely coated and sealed via primer, did about 3 light coats on all parts.
Then applied Top Coat, 2-3 Coats on each part.
Yeah Yeah, i know the pressure plate and flywheel are left plain... but i primed them to protect them, could have stopped there, but could not find cast iron paint, so went with the Chevrolet Grey. You will not see any of these items once assembled, but I am happy.
while in the engine, was looking at the fuel pump. i want to at least replace the diaphragm with FS-371 for ethanol
if i rebuild The Pump how hard is it to completely do so with this kit: FS-908.
is there any way to tell IF if needs to be rebuilt or has been rebuilt recently ??
Here are pictures of 1929 Fuel Pump, i bought the screen, gasket, and paper filter when i got the car for test runs...
What do the two nuts/ screws on top do ?? do both house Valve Springs to control flow and direction of Fuel through the pump to the carb ??
looking at 1929 I&O pg 41, same as what is in the 1929 Repair Manual as well.
Well i did order TFS Items: FS-908 FUEL PUMP REBUILD KIT & FS-371 FUEL PUMP DIAPHRAGM. this way i can rebuild the pump if needed, and if not i have spare parts for it if i ever do order the Diaphragm just to have as a spare, i know the rebuild kit has one in it. figure it would not hurt to have a spare lying around.
Well got out today, was a beautiful 70 degree sunny day.
Cleaned up the Trans body, masked it off and then primed and painted it.
Few shots of primed up Trans body: (Primer is still wet)
Trans Body Painted 01
Transmission painted up, Gloss Black
Few Shots Painted
Tore down the gear shift lever today, going to prime and paint in tomorrow. supposed to me another beautiful 70 F sunny day.
Cleaned up the Case Cover and Gear Shift Fork Assembly. lots of gunk packed down in the recess with the pins. Took a lot of convincing to get the lever out of the case. not too mention it was painted together !! does not look like PO took it apart and cleaned it up.
Now my question is with the lever, spring, cap, and cup
should the spring be greased ? oiled ? or is it just a simple spring in dry operation ??
here is a picture of it when i got it apart, notice the spring is PACKED with gunk. very hard to operate. took a TON on convincing to compress it.
Spring, cup, and cap were cleaned and spring works freely now !!
All of the parts were cleaned and prepped for paint tomorrow, well the lever and case cover will. assume the rest are just bare metal ??
Thanks Ted, Trans first, then on to the motor...
Waiting for the Hardware to arrive, then i can start to reassemble the Trans and components. Then I will start to work on the Engine, tear down and clean it up, then paint it up. Hopefully be able to start put it all back together and get it in the car...
Alright started working on the Engine Itself...
Used KBS Klean to degrease and clean up the engine for paint
Masked off teh NON Paint parts/ area
Painting the Engine
worked on my front end for reinstall of the driveline soon. where there was a coolant leak, seems it ate the paint of several places, plus a few bad spots on the frame itself.
Cleaned it up, prepped surface, then primed, and will apply 2 cost of top coat on it.
Applying Top Coat
Tomorrow going to try and clean up the front Cross Member and get it primed and painted.
while tearing down the 1929 Engine, and getting ready for reassembly decided to tear down and rebuild the Fuel Pump, figure at least replace the diaphragm with a Ethanol Version.
here is what it looked like before the rebuild when engine was removed:
Tore it down and laid out all the parts:
Took my dremel and small brushes and cleaned up the housing and removed all gasket residue from t surfaces.
Rebuilt the pump with new springs and components, new diaphragm assembly and ready to go
Upper Housing, new valves installed with springs and such
Fuel Pump Assembled and ready for Re Install...
installed my redone crankcase cover last night. installed with new hardware and gasket. i used a lil Permatex No 2 on both sides to be safe and sure a good seal.
Few Picts of Process
working on putting my 1929 Engine back together, i removed all the old tappets and replaced them with a new set from C&P Automotive (Billy Possum) ordered all the goodies including new gaskets for the Push Rod Cover.
they were cleaned as per included instructions, then i applied a coat of 50/50 motor oil & STP to help them slide into place as well as preserve them until the engine is fired back up and libricated via oil.
The New tappets installed smoothly without any hassle or resistance.
New Tappets Installed 1-3
The Gasket kit i Acquired from an Estate Sale actually has CORK Gasket for the Push Rod Cover, Valve Cover, and the Oil Pan !!
I installed a thin coat of Permatex No 2 to the Push Rod Cover, installed the Gasket and lined it up, then a thin coat of Permatex on the Gasket and Installed the Cover to the Engine, aligned it and Secure it in place with hardware.
Installing the Throwout Bearing into the Clutch Fork, there is a Clutch Fork Spring that goes in and Holds the Bearing in place and allows it to rotate to stay flat against the Clutch Throwout Bearing Sleeve.
I bought NEW springs from TFS and this is what they look like installed.
They do not sit flush or go all the way in
Spring Install Top
Notice the recess looks, like pin should sit in to stay, pin is in far as it will go
Spring Install Side 1
another view of spring
Spring Install Side 2
If i pull the spring out so the first bulge sits in the recess on the fork. it feels sloppy like the spring will just pop out. NOT securely seated.
notice the shape of the original spring.
Here is the Original Spring (TOP) vs the NEW Spring (Bottom) Spring Comparison
Notice that spring installed that the depth of the spring goes in a good ways and sits secured
notice only about 1/4" goes in
When i took apart my 1929 Transmission, the Bottom Flywheel Cover, has a drain hole, an in that drain hole was a Cotter pin. not sure if the pin was to help get the oil out and away from the pan when it drips vs run down the side and hanging on.
Is this factory or something the PO did ?!
Should i Put a new Cotter Pin in or ??
Here is a sketch i did up off how the cover fits and the spacing i have
Red Dims are overall length of Studs
Green Dim is Spacer Length
White is the Space / Gap
Left Dim is Offset of Cover
Right Dim is Est Gasket Thickness
I am wondering what it takes to remove the fuel tank from my 1929. Since i am cleaning and checking everything as i go, figured i mine as well drain it flush it and clean it out.
Looking at the tank, looks like there are ONLY 2 straps holding the tank in place. Is this all that holds the tank to the frame ?? and to remove those 2 straps looks like there are two bolts/ nuts on the front side that hold the straps to the frame.
so if i support the tank, remove the fuel line from the tank, i then can remove the hardware, loosen the straps, and then slowly lower the gas tank down ?? then installation is the reverse ??
how can i check the fuel sending unit, and what does it look like ??
1-seems there is a plug of sorts on the bottom of the tank, i assume to drain the tank if needed ??
2-looks like the gas gauge is all one piece internal to the tank, and looks like i should be able to slowly thread it off and gently pull it out of the tank ?? any tricks/ tips or anything that i should be weary of when pulling it out to validate & inspect it ??
3-assume there are gaskets to seal the unit to the tank to prevent leaks, or just threaded on and that is all ??
Ordering some hardware for my 1929 Running Board & Apron. Looking at the MPL it list 1/4-20 @ 3/4 & 1 long then 5/16-18 3/4, 1, and 1-1/4 long which one are used to:
1-Apron to Running Board Sides
2-Apron to Running Board Ends of Running Boards
Looking at what I have on mine now is NO help, PO used whatever he had laying around, it is a hodge podge of hardware, types, sizes, materials, etc...
Wondering if there are any replacements for the Universal Joint Ball washers #348133 they are shown in red here: Washers 348133
seems i am missing one, and the other looks abused.
or can i make new ones, or is there a substitute for them ?? or do i need to find a WHOLE new Assembly (Mushroom)
looks like they tore one out and then tried to get the other one out, it is bent, warped, distorted, twisted, etc...
I was thinking to get a few cut out, with a slot so i could work it in like a spiral, and then put the o-ring in between.
not sure what my other options are at this point.
Thanks to Dave39MD !! He had a NORS u-joint housing sitting around, that i was able to acquire for my rebuild and i was also able to successfully rebuild the original one
I was able to source 2 Spiral washers to replace the lost & destroyed washers in my u-joint housing. I cleaned out the end, and deburred the housing where the washers & o-ring will go. this was to ensure the spiral washers sit properly and the o-ring would NOT get damaged.
Installed First Spiral Washer and then pressed it to the bottom of the groove.
Spiral Washer Installed
I then installed the second Spiral washer and pulled it to the top
Second Spiral Washer Installed
The o-ring now fits nicely between the two washers just like it should. and should be completely usable without issues.
I opted for the 2 turn vs the 1 turn, since the 1 turn have a gap in them and figured this would cause issues with the o-ring, an edge to pinch on or a gap for the o-ring to try to escape.
really happy with the 2 turn easy to install and looks great. NO sharp edges and easy to remove. as you can see the custom lip they have for removal !!
I contacted the Manufacturer directly, as we do tons of business with them for the company i work for. gave him some specs and he sent me some samples to try. a few 1 turn and a few 2 turn.
If they work he says he can produce some for me in batches of 100 due to production run limits. so that would be 50 sets and would be pretty cheap, under $10 a set maybe even less !!
I had them make them fit a little tight, so they do NOT slop around in the housing. should they be loose or snug ??
Well last Monday i was home and was finally to the point of putting the engine & transmission back into my 1929. i double checked everything and then rolled the car back half way out the garage, then set up my engine hoist, and figured out a way to sling and hook it up to drop it back in.
I used my hand dandy moving blankets from Harbor Freight, they work great as fender protectors. Also Taped on some cardboard to back of engine to avoid scratching up the firewall and engine itself. I did bump a few things going back in, so had to do some touch up on pain, mainly the frame.
Engine is in, now to drop in the pans and then start bolting on the accessories.
Working on putting Engine, Components, and Accessories back into the 1929 Bay. Wondering when is the best time to install the Splash/ Underpans ??
should they go in LAST after everything else engine, components, accessories ?
or should they on right after engine is installed BEFORE components and accessories are installed ??
Thanks in Advance !!
While working on the car, i decided to remove the Hand Brake Handle & Assembly and Refinish it.
When removed from the car, hardware was corroded and the handle had seen better days.
Took it all apart, Blasted it in my Little Bench Top Eastwood Blaster, using 50/50 mix of Glass & Alum Ox
there are some other parts in the mix as well, blasted everything while i had the machine set up !!
Primed, and then Coated all the parts... Man What a Difference !!
Have to let paint cure, plus I had to order NEW hardware to put it all back together. so that should be here in a Few Days... I HOPE !!
As most of you know i got my Engine and Transmission back in the 1929 Frame. now comes the fun part of installing all the accessories and parts that bolt on the engine.
All NEW Hardware was used to Install the Starter
Splash Pans were installed first, First up on the list was the starter:
Engine Trans Housing Where Strater Mounts
Once the Starter was secured, Next up was the Generator & Adjustment Arm. The Belt was also installed to assist with installation and proper adjustment of the Generator.
All NEW Hardware was used to Install the Generator
Side View of Generator Installed
After the Generator was secured and Adjusted, I decided to install the NEW C&P Automotive (Billy Possum) Push Rods & Caps in prep for the rebuilt Rocker Arm Assembly to go in.
C&P Automotive Push Rods & Caps C&P Automotive Caps Up Close
They come sealed in an airtight back with a light coat of oil on them to keep them protected.
Push Rods and Caps Installed
I also Installed NEW C&P Automotive Tappets, when i installed the Push Rod Cover.
Once the Push Rods & Caps were installed next up was the Rocker Arm Assembly. I had the COMPLETE Rocker Arm Assembly rebuilt via Rocker Arms Unlimited out in CA. These guys are very knowledgeable about the vintage Chevrolets. They have all the equipment and tools to do the job right, including creating the correct contour on the Rocker arm tips !! I worked w/ Gary out there, and he took care of me in every aspect. Read more and see Pictures of their work in previous Posts here.
After the Rocker Arms, I set the valves, this took some time, as i checked and double checked to make sure that they were set correctly with Piston 1 @ TDC.
Once that was done Next to go in was the Distributor:
NEW Hardware was used here as well
I also took the time to set the points gap and then double check that while here as well. I am trying to get all the critical items COLD SET so that when i am ready i can try and fire the engine with little or NO issues... CROSSING MY FINGERS !!
Well next up was the Manifold Assembly !!
1929 Manifold Assembly Installed
i had to do the .060 shims under the posts because PO installed aftermarket, later year valves and they are taller than the stock, and they cut the push rods down to compensate. 1929 Head Check - Valves
so when i put int he rebuild arms, and then the NEW C&P Push Rods & Caps, when i tightened down the bolts to hold the arms in, it pressed open all the valves. even if i removed the adjusters from the arms. this was the only way i could get it to work. based on my math it worked out just fine. will see how it does once i get it running up and to temp and HOT Set the valves.
i checked my belt and ordered a NOS Dayco #24380 17A0965 per an article on here about belts. It is NON Wrapped, NON cogged Belt Made in the USA.
It is shorter that the GATES that the PO had installed.
Installed the belt
notice the angle from before to now
Got the Tank Removed...
Flushed out the tank
now need to decide to seal or not to seal
Going to replace the cork float with a new neoprene one i ordered
need to replace the gaskets around the gauge face, they are all falling apart.
well used the KBS Clean and soaked the tank, did this until the flush water ran clear, which was only 1 trip. water came out a little rusty color, but not bad.
now to clean up the Float, paint up the back, and then put it all together. i am going to repaint the tank while i have it out.
talked to the gasket maker today, he is willing to cut me some Viton Gaskets for the Fuel Tank Gage, and Fuel Tank Filler Cap
I Did the CAD Work, and he will cut them on the Water Jet, I just have to pay for the Material.
Anyone else interested in Viton Gaskets for the Fuel Tank ? would be 2 for the Gage end, each side of the glass, and then a new one for the inside of the Gas Cap. Total of 3 in the Set, doing 2 at .062 thick, then one at .125" thick. one of the .062 is for the Cap.
Viton should be a better material for the Ethanol, at least in chemical compatibility, or could do a Buna-N Cork Gasket Set.
took and cleaned the outside the sand, sanded out the rough spots, and painted it all up. man what a difference
stripped the fuel gauge down, and painted it up as well.
Here are a Few Shots of the Neoprene Float
Trying to figure out the trick to installing the Spring in the hand brake, i bought it from TFS #FS-136, got the little picture and understand it no problem. I am not able to get the spring in per the diagram.
Spring is really tight and been kicking my butt. to the point i have ruined the paint on the lever and handle trying to get it in there.
Is there a trick to easy way to install the spring per the diagram ??
ok guys here is what i did, and man it was easy and went together like nothing. hope this helps anyone doing this themselves.
i removed the bottom bolt that holds the prawl and lever w/ lock. removed the prawl, and then pulled the rod out of the way of the handle. i then put the spring in the handle the way it goes, per the Filling Station diagram. then put the other end of the spring through the hole in the brake handle where it goes, then clipped on my needle nose vise grips, and pulled the handle and spring up and into place, and put in the first bolt to hold the handle in position. then gently release the spring from the vise grips. could also use something else to hold if needed.
ignore the tape, it held the handle while i touched up paint :)
Then you can flip the prawl lock and lever back around, put it in position install prawl and install bolt, then install the end of the lever in the handle and install hardware. consider it done !!
this was really easy and takes maybe five minutes, or maybe it took me 5, because i had been fighting it for days and figure this method out !!
IF is it in the car, not sure you can do it this way. but it is easy to remove and well worth the time to make this easy on yourself !!
Got my gaskets cut out in Viton:
Installed the viton Gaskets vs the Cork for the gauge
Cleaned up the Cap and replaced the worn out paper with a Viton as well.
Fuel Tank Back in 1929
Ordered some lacing from TFS, and finally got it in. Took my time and removed the old, looks Original lacing from the radiator and Cowl. Going to strip down and prime/ paint the black sections of the radiator/ support before i lace it back up. Removing all those little rivets was a pain. Removing the lacing from the cowl was pretty easy, i removed it in reverse of the installation instructions.
Now on installing the Lacing on the Cowl, How far/ close towards the center brace/ pin should i take the fabric on the lacing ??
Looking at this Cowl Lacing picture, you can see that the lacing fabric was past the third hole out from the center. so about 1.5-2 inches. is this correct or should i put the fabric all the way to the metal when i push the core through and bend it over ?? Lacing all the way in & up or lacing out from the center past third hole
how is everyone else doing it ?? the TFS instructions do not spec out how or where to do the fabric on top the cowl
OK, laced up my cowl:
Was really easy to do, only pain was pulling that wire back on itself up through the top of the cowl, too some convincing and working, but got it done. have to say it looks really nice, I am really happy with it.
Stripped, primed, and painted the bottom of the radiator shroud, as well as part of the radiator brackets/ housing.
Then installed the Lacing on the Radiator. this was really easy followed TFS instructions they sent, and went smoothly.
This Lacing went on super easy, and I am very happy with the outcome.
Well got the Radiator put back together. was enough slack in the fabric to pull it down slide in screw, and then pass it through. took my time to make sure i did NOT damage anything i have already done.
Wondering if anyone has any pictures/ layouts of HOW the wiring and cables are routed, where and how they are secured along the firewall, and where they go through the firewall or how they go.
Trying to get the spaghetti and cluster fudge under the dash and on the firewall inside cleaned up. they just ran wires/ cables where ever !!
Thanks to Bare Feet for the reference Photos, i spent about 1.5 hours last night starting to work on cleaning up under the dash & firewall.
I reinstalled the Speedo that I had JY Dog Fix for me, Thanks !! Replaced all the misc mixed up screws under there. and then started cleaning up the wiring.
Notice the 2 Black Wires, looks like they go to the dome light switch
How and where are these guys routed ?? do not see them in the reference Photos ?? looks like the are along the sill plate coming from the back pillar, then they are just hanging from there up to the back of the dash.
Does this look correct for the Passenger side so far ??
Will start on the Drivers Side Next. Install the Speedo cable and secure that to the firewall as well.
Working on routing my wires under the dash as well as the Speedo Cable. Thanks to Bare Feet, looks like the Speedo goes down the back center of the firewall through a hold down w/ bolt. but WHERE does it go from there ??
does it go behind the pedals (between pedal rod and radiator side), or in front of pedals (between pedal rod and brake cross bar). are there ANY other hold downs/ clamps on the cable ??
any pictures of the proper routing would be appreciated. unfortunately the PO did not have it hooked up properly and it was hanging in limbo.
Ok, removed the hardware and got the Bracket off...
So I installed it per the info and pictures above
Installed the Cable & Clip per the info from JY Dog above
This is HOW I ROUTED the Speedo cable. does this look correct ??
Thought I would share, all pieces painted, New hardware installed and secured, once again thanks to everyone for their guidance and assistance with this !!
Getting ready to reinstall the Radiator and such and wondering HOW the wires run down the rail up front.
On the drivers side do they run up along the top inside of the rail over the steering box or down low under the box ?? I understand that the center hood Bumper also has a wire holder ?? where else is the wire held or secured ?!?
Pictures would be nice !!
various areas ?? assume they are long the TOP of the Frame rail ?
where ? do they mount on other items or solo mounted ?? (do they mount on the backside of the hood latch mounting hardware)
Here is the routing I have as of now:
There is ONE Clip holding hte bundle on the wall under the Floor Board
Where to Put in the Clamps Down the Rail
Screw/ washer on top rail near cross member, put clamp under top rail, This would be a TIGHT hard turn to secure the Wire Bundle into the Wire Clamp if I used this Screw, other two holes on right are outside frame rail.
This is where the center Hood Bumper goes, also understand that a Wire Clamp goes here as well. Assume it mounts on the inside of the rail and Down to hold the bundle.
Can see the hole where center Hood Bumper Goes top center. not sure what the hole in frame rail near the steering box is for ? two of the three holes on the right hold the Horn (Back two holds), the other hole farthest right ?? not a clue.
Wire Clamps across the front of the Cross Frame Rail
this clamp is on the right where the wire clamp comes down the frame rail
Wire clamp in cross rail right under Crankshaft Pulley
Looks like I need a second clamp on the Bundle right after it comes through the floor board. I have one, but per the pict there is two. I need to add in the upper one. Then I need to add one more in to the unpainted screw (Screw 1).
I have TFS #GR-237, which has a Wire Clamp, that goes under the frame rail. so this would be support number two.
Then it looks like there is a clamp in this photo as well this is where the bundle breaks off to the generator and the lights. but it looks like it is actually clamped onto the end of the metal armor cable vs the actual wire bundle.
Wiring Down the Cowl Wall and in the Groove to pass under the Floor Board
Got My Horn Mounted and Wired up
Finally got all my wiring done and horn mounted so next step was to install the radiator. I Used the TFS Kit FS-511.
Install was easy and i aligned and ensured that it was plum and square. Also installed the Support Brace. NO HOOD at this time, I will go back and install the hood once i get it running and all tuned up. Lots of hassle going back and forth side to side with the hood on.
Need to finish up on the Drivetrain, Hoses, Clamps, Electrolock. Exhaust strip, prime & paint high heat, install and secure. Double check brakes, front, rear, new trunions, and reset. repair rear spare tire carrier, strip, prime, paint, install. Electrical, chase all wires, secure, possible turn signal routing and lighting, rebuild brake light housing and guts. install headlight bar, stanchions, wire it all up. floor boards and rubber mat. then sure i am missing or forgetting something, once together will fire it up and tune it in, then a few test runs, and work up to duration. want to have it ready for out local spring square car tour. lots to do and NO time to do it.
Finally got all my wiring done and horn mounted so next step was to install the radiator. I Used the TFS Kit FS-511.
Install was easy and i aligned and ensured that it was plum and square. Also installed the Support Brace. NO HOOD at this time, I will go back and install the hood once i get it running and all tuned up. Lots of hassle going back and forth side to side with the hood on.
orking on putting my Electrolock Back in my 1929. Got the Tech Sheet with all the parts, order of Assembly and instructions.
Questions i Have:
1- Does Item 6, which looks to be a split lock washer go inside the Ferrule number 5 or does it sit up against the ferrule.
2- Item 7 Slip Fiber Bushing, looks like it goes through the wall of the distributor to isolate the electrolock shaft from grounding out. does it go into the ferrule end as well or does it but up against the split washer from question 1 ?
I have all the pieces to assemble but does not seem to go all back together tightly. right now Item 7 Slip Fiber Bushing sits against teh Ferrule and slides in through the Distributor. I align the pin on the ferrule to the hole in the distributor.
This is what i took apart, I added in the second lock washer Item 6. The Spacing is where the Condenser, Distributor, and Points go.
I took an 3/8 internal tooth washer and used my flat file and put a notch in the one side. this is to accommodate the pin in the ferrule. i went this route because it was THIN and looks like the original ones i seen in picts. The standard 3/8 split washer would need to be ground/ thinned some.
Ok here is a step by step picture by picture of my attempt to reassemble the electrolock in my 1929... Hopefully guys on here with knowledge and experience will correct me on anything i have done wrong (I hope)
This is where I started, here is the Threaded end of the Electrolock that goes into the Distributor. I Cleaned up and chased the threads.
Took and placed the Fiber Washer (No Item Number, so Item 0) up to the face as far as it would go.
Then placed on the Steel Spiral Lock Washer (Item 1) all the way to the Serrated Hole Fiber Washer.
Next placed the Fiber Bushing (Item 7) in the End of the Ferrule (Item 5), and ensured that it would install flush on the inside of the Distributor.
Install the Fiber Washer (Item 4) into the Ferrule (Item 5) and make sure it is flush against face of Ferrule. should also center up around the Fiber Bushing (Item 7) Previously installed.
Placed the Flat Steel Washer (Item 3) in the Ferrule (Item 5) centered and up against the Fiber Washer (Item 4). when trying to do this i found it a LOT easier to sit the Flat Steel Washer (Item 3) on the center of the Threads of the Electrock Cable.
Slowly and gently slide on the Ferrule Assembly from above onto the end of the Electrolock Shaft, DO NOT slide it all the way on, just barely onto the threads. so you can look in the slot of the ferrule (Item 5) and see the Steel Washer (Item 4) to the right, and the Split Lock Washer (Item 1) to the left. You will have to slide the condenser connection in between if you used a Split/ Fork Type Connector, if using the Ring type, you will slide that on the Electrolock Shaft BEFORE sliding on the assembly from above.
You can see the gap and Washers Clearly.
I then slid in the Condenser Wire Connector (Item 2), this HAS to go in between the 2 Steel Washers, Item 1 and Item 3.
No matter what Style Connector you use on the Condenser, this is what it should look like so far.
I then slid on the Custom Made Washer (Item 6) this is simply a 3/8 Internal Tooth Washer that I used a file to made a slot for the Ferrule Pin to go. Washer (Item 6) Installed Notice the Pin fits in the slot I made on the washer.
This Assembly now should go into the Distributor, made sure the Pins is aligned with the slot in the Distributor Wall. The Fiber Bushing (Item 7) should go through the hole and mount flush, the Electrolock Shaft should go all the way through.
Now install the Fiber washer (Item 8) I made it out of Rubber Gasket Material, as it is NOT Conductive and easy to cut. This must cover the leg of the Points and keep it from touching the Distributor wall. make sure it is on all the way against the Distributor Wall.
Next installed the "L" Shaped Fiber Gasket (Item 9) onto the shaft against Fiber Gasket (Item 8) with the leg down on on the Plate. This Gasket seems to keep the Nut and Washers from touch the plate and grounding out.
Then install the Steel Plate (Item 10), make sure you install so the curvature matches inside the the Distributor Wall. this goes up against the 2 Fiber Washers (Item 8) & (Item 9)
Now Install the Points (Item 11), make sure the Arm is against the Fiber Gasket (Item 8) and (Item 9).
Install the final part, the Nut (Item 12) I have a standard #10 Nut, lot easy to get on and off and NO special Tools Required
All left to do is tighten up the nut to secure the cable and parts in place. I tightened it up till snug, then a 1/4 turn to secure in place.
Let me know what i missed or messed up... thanks !!
Installed my Hose, ended up getting a 36" piece of Dayton Wrapped Hose, looks great and is pliable. also got a New Elbow to be safe.
Cut it into lengths i measure out for each section.
Installed Some hose clamps that I got from TFS. looks like the old ones are different from the new ones i just received.
Clamps are NOT tightened yet
When installing my Hose and Clamps i noticed that the NEW ones I got from TFS are thinner than the older set i got.
Also noticed that they have totally different hardware. The NEW set on the left. Phillips drive hex head screws on left, round head slotted drive on right.Both are 10-24
The set on the left is approx .022" Thick and very flimsy where as when i tighten them up on the hose they distort badly, not even wrenching them down, can easily flex and bend with my fingers. the set on the right is approx .040" thick and a lot more sturdy, i can wrench these down and they do not distort. also the set on left is more of a zinc plated material, whereas the one on the right is a galvanized looking material.
Few Picts Fastened In
Figured I would work on getting the exhaust system cleaned up and ready to go in the car, since i am at that point. looks like the PO had a new exhaust system made / bought to replicate the original style.
I took some time to sand and clean up the surface rust and such. Then I put on a few coats of High Temp Primer Followed by a Few Coats of High Temp Exhaust Black Paint. looks a lot better than it did when it came off.
A few Close up of Muffler and other
r and Paint to go back on.
looking to see what actually holds on the 2 Chrome Strips on the Front Radiator Splash Apron. I have the Apron, need to massage and work it to fit properly on the front clip, it is a little mangled. Need to know how the 2 Chrome Strips are secured/ fastened to the Apron ?!? Looks like there should be some sort of Clip ?
I also procured a New Tunnel & Crank Hole Cover from TFS, so will test fit that on as well. once it is all straight and in order, will tear it down, have the strips replated, then strip, prime and paint the apron and tunnel.
Then Can put it all together and put it on the car.
I will post some pictures later to make sure I have all the correct parts for the Radiator Splash Apron for my 1929.
OK took some pictures of what I have on hand:
...Straight on shot from front
...Close up of Tunnel
...Right Side Seam Close up, what goes in the Holes along seam they do not look inline with Rivets ??
...Left Side Seam Close up, what goes in the Holes along seam they do not look inline with Rivets ??
...Left UnderSide Close Up, can see the Holes and looks liek Square Nuts were in those palces based on recesses
...Right UnderSide Close Up, can see the Holes and looks liek Square Nuts were in those palces based on recesses
...Left UnderSide Outter Close Up, Do these washers belong on the mounting holes ??
...Right UnderSide Outter Close Up, Do these washers belong on the mounting holes ??
...Right front CLose Up, can see one of hte Questioned HOles Close Up.
...Left front CLose Up, can see one of hte Questioned HOles Close Up.
...Straight on shot upside Down
Please take a look and confirm this is correct for my 1929 Chevrolet International 4 Door Sedan
Here are some pictures of my Strips:
...Both Strips Top Down View
...Close Up Front End of Clips
...Close Up Tail End of Clips
...Side View of Clips
...Clip Mount on Underside of Strip
They look to be in good shape ?? just need replating and Clips
ok, so looks like the strips are in excellent condition, i straightened them up and cleaned them up a little bit. they fit nicely on the Radiator Splash Apron.
I was thinking of a way to make me some clips/ hardware for mounting.
This is what I came up with... Let me know what you think
Started off with a Standard #10 Washer, it actually fits really nice in the spaces where the t-bolts slid in. and you can slide them around freely in the track. my concern was not really enough surface area to HOLD them down when tightened. so i ordered a bag of #10 Fender Washers.
Measured the width of the Track.Took my File and Flattened two sides of the Washer. Tweaked it to fit freely with some play for chrome plating thickness.
Took My Countersink and drilled the washer to fit a #10 Slotted Flat Head Screw Flush with the top surface.
Yeah it does NOT look like it sits flat due to the angle, but it does
These fit really Nice in the Track and I can slip them in the groove, and slide them into place. made a few to test and they work Great. Had a issue with the screw spinning freely when trying to tighten them up, so think i will have my friend tack the flat head screw to the washer. Then i can grind it down so it fits.
Think this will work fine for my application and hold the strips tightly in place.
Was off on Tuesday so picked up my hardware i ordered to install the Exhaust system on my 1929.
Started installation of the hangers & Brackets hoping to make it easier to install and secure.
shadows make it look like there is a red tint, most likely from the flash...
Exhaust Manifold Mounting
Should Muffler Be SNUG in the Strapping ?? Flush up against Bracket on Frame and Strap Holding it Tight ??
Those are Harbor Freight Furniture Dollys got em on sale, 8 of em actually. 4 hang on the wall in the back if i need them for anything else.
then i cut plywood to fit in one way then another piece across the top. all screwed together nicely, any screws that went thru were cut off and ground below surface. then bought Harbor Freight Jack Stands again on sale and 4 of em. centered them up on the dollys, then marked and drilled for u bolts to hold em down and in place. they work great, really cheap, and the car does NOT just roll around, it takes some force to move it. figure around 2500-3000 pounds on them. distributed evenly. but gives me just enough ground clearance i can roll under do some work and have no issues. I originally used industrial zip ties to hold them in place.
yes i can roll it sideways and spin it if i wanted. takes effort and muscle, not a really easy task. my floor is NOT smooth it is rough concrete. takes a bit of effort to redirect the wheels
Trying to stay active on my 1929, looking to see what is the correct make and Model of Vacuum wiper for my 1929 4 door Sedan.
Then what is the best way to test/ verity that it works properly. Not sure if the PO rebuilt it or if it was thrown in a box, bough off ebay, etc...
Figured I would cross this bridge now so that if need be I can have it ready when I get there.
Will see if I can get some pictures and post it when I get home today. Assuming it is in the box of parts ?!?!?
This is the Trico Wiper I have:
Well spent the weekend tearing down and rebuilding the wiper motor. I Took my time, broke it down and laid out all the parts as i took them apart, took pictures of most every step along the way. followed the instructions that came with my rebuild kit, even ordered an extra gasket just in case i destroyed the one in the kit !!
Basic Tear Down of the MAIN components
Tore Down the Original Wiper Paddle
after tearing everything down time to clean each part up, remove the old grease and grime.
I took my time doing this as NOT to damage any surfaces or break anything.
also the copper parts of the paddle are very thin !! and their are NO replacements.
Here is a shot of the rebuild kit
Side by side of OLD vs NEW Paddle Seal
Then time to rebuild the paddle and then the Vacuum Assembly.
I read instructions a few times, dry fir the builds, then assembled and secured.
Then Assemblies the parts, installed the mechanisms that make it work.
I ONLY had to trim one small section of the gasket, easily done with a razor blade. and realized on my model I did NOT really need the ROUND stop Sealer, but oh well.
once it was built, time to test it out... figured the best way to test a vacuum motor is with a vacuum !! but how to adapt it to the motor ??
I took my small house cordless vacuum, and then taped my plastic dollar tree turkey baster on to the end of the hose using vinyl tape (electrical tape). wanted to avoid any vacuum leaks. then the turkey baster end was a little to big for the vacuum connection, so wrapped a few turns of vinyl tape around the fitting and got a NICE SNUG fit. fired up the vacuum and NOTHING happened. short panic set in and thought the wiper was trash :/
then i thought how much vacuum is this vacuum actually pulling, so hooked it up to the Vacuum gauge, and it barely pulled 1 inch of Hg. so swapped out the cordless for the 5 gal shop vac. it pulls about 4 in of Hg. so connected it to the vacuum wiper motor. and away the wiper went. i was happy. let it run for a minute to make sure everything works correctly.
just for you guys, I shot a short video, make sure you turn down the SOUND, the Vacuum is LOUD !!
videos are a little large, so may take a few minutes to initialize and run but they are cool, especially the one with the mechanisms
Now it needs to be cleaned up/ remove extra grease, and then painted BLACK and installed.
Well ALL my bulbs finally arrived !!
bought what i needed and then a few spares, bulbs were cheap.
just in case, the top right bulbs are Head Lamp #1000 from TFS, they are stamped china #1188
Checking to see what is Correct/ Original for a 1929 4 Door, this is the Main Ground from the Battery to the Frame Rail (passenger Side)
I checked the MPL and it list Cable, Ground
Wondering if it was a Web Style Grounding Strap or just a plain ole Grounding Cable (Rubber/ Plastic Coated) ?? What Gauge is Recommended by the Pros here for best performance ?? Stock Length ??
This is what I have now from PO
I plan to clean it all up, get a proper ground metal to metal, touch up paint, etc.
This is what TFS has in their Catalog
9.5" , 12", or 14" long
Also reading on here, there was talk about Grounding to the Drivetrain ?? is this required/ recommended on the 1929 ??
If so from where to where, and then same as above ?? strap or cable ?!
Were the Battery Connectors for battery were the simple straight style:or something else ??
What material is the 1929 headlamp Reflector made of ??
seems to be a thin sheet of metal ? or is that just from the coating
looking into having them recoated
done a ton of searching and looking at the aluminized coating route, calling today to get pricing and such from Uvira, Inc. also a place that is in Ohio or kentucky does it as well. will provide details once i get em !!
did not see anything on material, looks like mine are painted or coated black on one side and then silvered on the other
also one seems to have a ding that makes a slight crease in the reflector, can that be fixed or not ??? I can live with it if not, will not be truly visible unless you take it apart and look closely at in.
talked to Bill today out at Uvira, they are still in business and doing the reflectors. cost is $75 a pair and includes return shipping IF you include the check in the box on its way out. turn around it 2-3 days. they have a New shipping address, vs the one listed. and if you send via USPS they have a Post Office Box they check daily, other shipments go to a physical address they check routinely. so USPS is fastest way to get them something !!
Actually had a really good conversation with him when he called me back. He told me he had a stroke recently, so he is a little slower but still kicking and working hard.seems to really enjoy what he does especially for old cars. He is a true fan old cars, and says he gets pictures from his clients and post them all over his wall. He is particularly a fan of Chevrolet, the 1929 in particular says it is a good looking car, says it is a far better car than the F**d. Told me story of friend who owned one as a kid, then sol when he got older, then turned around and realized he missed his car, and went and bought it back, and still owns it to this day.
Will be sending mine his way soon, once they get straightened and nickeled. They do require that the reflectors be cleaned up, and nickel plated then polished before they get them. as all they do is aluminize them. said they used to do the entire process but is tedious and requires way more time, man power, and equipment.doing the aluminum coating is the easy part
working on fitting up my new Wood for my 1929 for Floor and Toe.
scanned the manuals and can not seem to find what hardware should be used to secure it to the sheet metal/ inserts.
looks to be 1/4-20 but are they slotted round, slotted flat ?!?
ok here are pictures of my Upper Metal Plate
ok, so how does the Steering Column Grommet get installed.
Does the Raised Surface (TOP) FACE the INSIDE or the OUTSIDE of the Car (Engine Bay)
Does the LONG Side go up or down ?? (the side with the extra rubber between column hole and outside edge)
Does it come in contact with the Metal Plates that goes on the Toe Board and Fire Wall ??
if it goes above, then it has to go over the mat. which looks ok, if you ever have to remove the toe board, you have to move grommet, mat, then parts.
but then any water from below gets in between the metal and mat up to grommet
if it goes under, then it is remove mat, then toe board, and done.water would hit grommet and disperse, as long as grommet was tight against the metal.
ok, took some time out in the garage and swapped out one of the oil pan screws, tweaked my oil line bracket and got it ready for install.
just need to blast, prime, and paint then i can install !!
Looks good and fits very nice
a while ago we talked about the oil line brackets for the engine, several people posted pictures and info about their brackets. i made a few rough ones, i recently got a nice mini bender and made a few pieces that re very nice and look great and will work great. just need to set up press to drill holes in them !!
I used aluminum to set up my bender and tooling, since it is CHEAPER and EASIER to roll and bend.
Once i got the tooling set up I made one out of Steel !!
I hope to set up Drill and put the hole in them to test fit, then will paint and install the Steel one on my 1929.
The aluminum is lighter and easier to bend, the steel one is RIGID. when you install them you can easily tighten the aluminum around the oil line, the steel one not possibly with OUT pliers, then you have to be careful NOT to pinch the line !! then trying to get it off later, that would be fun !! I am trying to make it more of a support where i can snap in the line and go with it.
If anyone is interested I have some spare aluminum strips and steel strips and would be willing to make one for anyone interested. granted they would NOT be exact replicas. BUT based on pictures I personally think they will look CORRECT and Serve their purpose WELL !! May need to be adjusted and tuned when you get it to fit correctly !!
PM Me if interested, figure just pay for material and shipping, I Will bend and drill them, they will be bare metal and require painting and fitting. Either Aluminum or Steel.
ok, took some time out in the garage and swapped out one of the oil pan screws, tweaked my oil line bracket and got it ready for install.
just need to blast, prime, and paint then i can install !!
Looks good and fits very nice
was tinkering around last night while tweaking my oil line bracket.
I digitized the 1929 Chevrolet Logo off my car and exported it for 3d Printing.Loaded it up in the Printer Loaded in some PLA and let it rip...
Actually Came out pretty good. All i had was black, so will need to tinker with some paint and see how it comes out.
Just thought I would share, Love Technology and These Old Chevrolets, so combine them when i Can !!
got my wiper motor all ready to go, gonna paint it this week and hopefully install it soon.
was wondering HOW/ WHAT hardware to mount it to the header ? I see there are Three holes in the metal across the top above the vacuum port coming out. and on the b racket there are 3 countersunk holes that match up. What is USED to mount the bracket to the header ?? and What size/ length ?? scanned through my manuals and MPL did not see anything in there.
Well i made up new cables, used 1/0 cable cloth wrapped from Rhode Island Wiring, bought the Fusion (Pre Solder) connectors and clamps.
The cables from Rhode Island were very nice, I had them pre cut the cables to my lengths, no charge. since i have no way to cleanly cut 1/0 cable. read the instructions and watch a few videos on how to solder on the connectors. they went on pretty easy and looked great, then used from electrical heat shrink to seal them up and clean them up a bit.
Here is a quick shot of the Cables Soldered and Assembled. the connectors and clamps are at those angles as that is how they will sit when installed in the 1929
had no way on hand to heat up and shrink the tubing, so ventured over to a fellow AACA members house and used his heat gun to shrink the Tubing
They came out really nice and I am happy with them.
The LONG cable is for the starter. the other two are for ground. one from frame rail to disconnect switch, one from disconnect switch to battery
I am installing a disconnect switch as well. this way i can disconnect the battery from ground when in storage, also will hard wire charging cable to the battery clamps. this will make it easier to access and charge the battery while installed.
Pictures of the Disconnect Switch
I plan to mount it just under the passenger seat in the floor wood.
..would be top right in this picture, this allows for easy access and it is out of the way of feet and getting in and out.
I plan to mount it under the wood, so only the center post of the Switch will be visible, and can place the key or cap on it when needed.
however the post was way to long and stuck way above the wood, so i needed a way to lower the switch and securely mount it. 3d Printing to the rescue, i designed a spacer and printed it out in PLA on my handy dandy 3d desktop printer.
the holes line up perfectly and fits nicely.
When it gets permanently installed i will use machine screws, flat head slotted so they will sit flush with the wood.
spent some time working on the Floor Wood. I spent a week or so trying to match up finishes and colors on what Ted (Chistech) di on the Oak he installed under the seat. After many tries and not getting close I threw in the towel and pulled the seat, sanded and stripped the piece of wood and then put 3 coats of Helmsman on it and the Floor Board & Toe Boards. I put on a coat, let it sit 12 hours, lightly sanded with 220 sand paper, then applied another coat.
have to say that it came out really nice, probably too nice. 2 coats would have sufficed, but directions said 3 to seal... I also used the Satin finish, did NOT want a shiny coat.
I will let them CURE for the next few days then install them and secure them for now
Just for reference...
Here is a comparison of the finish colors of The Original vs Now
Side by Side you can see the Color Differences
Looks a lot closer
Well started assembling the parts back on the Floor/ Toe Board for my 1929
got this all ready to go back in, had to touch up some paint on the frame rail and clean up the area for the ground cable to connect to the frame rail. once that is all done and dried i will install all the floor wood.
got the wood all stripped down, then applied 3 coats of Helmsman to it. ooh does it look nice, yes i used satin did NOT want the bowling ally shine !!
this is permanent install, well at least I hope. used flat head, slotted screws and countersunk holes for clean install. the switch was installed just high enough to get the key in and turn it and NOT rub the wood or interfere. it is also slightly tucked under the front seat, hopefully out of the way of anyone and everyone feet !!
Touched up the paint on the battery tray and around where i ground off the paint on the frame rail for the ground cable and hardware. i want to make sure i have a GOOD SOLID GROUND !!
installed and secured the wood in the 1929 today
Pictures of the Rubber Mat from TFS
these are the marks people talk about and refer too when they talk about waves, creases, wrinkles in the rubber mats. One Supplier for everyone
Few shots of the Mat installed, I had to order Pedal Rubber, will install those once they arrive
Installed all the new power and ground cables last night.
Frame Rail on the Right, Battery on the Left
These cables are pretty rigid, but will Flex if needed. I plan to FULLY Tighten down the connection on the starter and Disc Switch ONCE the battery is in and Cables Routed and Secured. Need to be able to swivel the lug on the Bolt to get the proper Angle !! May just toss the battery in and fine tune them to be certain. that way there is no more adjusting and configuring later. Battery will go in and stay in after that. will connect charge cables to the battery connectors for ease of access and use.
been installing my new floor and wood, and got the mat installed so put in the accelerator pedal. thought i would follow up on the anti-rattle spring with some pictures of my install.
small spring from my local hardware store, 1/4 SAE Flat Washer
Not sure if this is 100% correct, but it seems to hold together and fit Nicely. The Return Spring goes around the front bolt/ stud of Exhaust Manifold.
yeah was wondering if the mold was not hot enough or cooling to fast !?
hopefully they get that figured out and take care of, or if it is the actual mold make a new one
due to inclement weather and not being home a lot lately due to work I am shifting gears to keep things moving on my 1929 Restoration.
Looking at Data Plates/Tags:
looks like all of them were hand stamped with the numbers/ info
Original one: gone when I got the car
--Where is it located in/on the car ?!?
--CAR NUMBER is the Engine Serial Number ??
--How is it secured to Car ??
Original one: has lost color and beat up
--MODEL is 943J
--SERIAL NUMBER to Match existing
Original one: has lost color and beat up
--MODEL is 714L
--SERIAL NUMBER to Match existing
Original one: has lost color and beat up
--MODEL is 833G
--SERIAL NUMBER to Match existing
any and all help/pictures would be appreciated. I plan to order the Plates/ Tags from TFS this weekend.
think i found the location of the original PLATE !!! Right Sill Assembly, at the seam of the front cross seal and the removable floor board. Found 2 nails in the Sill, then 2 holes where nails used to be ?!?
not sure of the manufacture plant/facility car was in Central Indiana as far back as I can trace History for it.
Info/Pictures I have:
Casting Date: E__1__9
Cast No: 835501
Cast No: 59031
Letter under Casting: B
Cast No: 352287
Anything more please let me know, and appreciate the help with this.
a little ecstatic at the moment, was scamming through an envelope PO gave me with some pictures and in there was:
1-Driver License of Owner from 1940
...cool paper license with name, age, race, eyes, on the front, then on the back, a reminder to use proper hand signals when driving with graphic of each 2-Fisher Body Tag...goes on the passenger side front corner
3-Serial Number Plate
...rough looking but think i can make out the info !!
Looks to be 9 AC 42xxx
which would put it Norwood, OH Facility ?!? and a 1929 Chevrolet
Got my data tags all back
Also talked with a gentleman that had an ad in the VCCA magazine, and ordered a NEW Fisher Body Tag, have to say WOW !!
He did a great job and from the time i sent the info and check till i received the tag back was less than 2 weeks !!
I am ordering NEW hub caps and they look like this
should I go with the Unpolished or polished versions... the above is unpolished, if i go polished the finish will look like this, but imprint will be like above
Forgot to post pictures of the finished bracket installed
Looks great, and fit was great, line is now secured and will not rattle/vibrate
I made a batch of them fro the strips i bought to make mine, so have a few spares If anyone is interested. Granted they would NOT be exact replicas. BUT based on pictures I personally think they will look CORRECT and Serve their purpose WELL !! May need to be adjusted and tuned when you get it to fit correctly !!
PM Me if interested, figure just pay for material and shipping, I Will bend and drill them, they will be bare metal and require painting and fitting. Either Aluminum or Steel.
working on my bumpers i have the one that came with my car it is not straight, and then i recently picked up a nice one from Hershey
wondering what was the correct Medallion style or was than more than one used ??
Chrome is what was on there, other is what was on Hershey bumper
note one has pointed tips, other has more rounded tips
Large medallion is similar
what is the correct end hardware ??
one on the car has the flat cap style:
one from Hershey looks like standard hardware:
what kind of NAILS were used to hold the data plate to the sill ?!?
what is the best practice/ method to remove old tags from starter, generator, distributor
i bought the new Tag Rivet Set
just wondering best way to remove old tags, rivets, and install new ones
OK, Made me a wood template, and now to get a press and start working it into shape...
been around the block to many shops and places, no one wants to work on it :(
will be a learning curve and experience for me
well bought a new tool this past week
HF 20 Ton Shop Press
unpacked and put it all together in a day. Bought the Bolt together version :)
YES I put it on Casters, Rated to support more that the weight of the press !! makes it easier to maneuver it around to work with it, since i have a small garage and the car is in the garage.
I decided to design and 3d print me a custom handle for the Release Valve vs fighting with the jack handle. man does it make a difference and a hole lot easier to work !!
Started learning HOW to use the press and what it does based on where you PRESS.
got one side pretty close to what i am working on against my template
an hour or so of work and learning :)
another hour or two last night on the press
getting the front bracket closer to net shape
also messed around with the starting crank, since it had a bend in it two directions...
a few before and a few after
Well spent most of the morning and afternoon working the crossbars. made me a jig to work with and it worked great, could adjust the distance between the two ends to help.
got bot the crossbars arc the same. and them matched them up to the bracket.
put it all together or fitment. i am pretty happy with it
anyone see anything wrong ??
once it is good will have the bracket blasted, primed & painted then the crossbars stripped and chromed.
Working on my Spare Tire Carrier for my 1929
Wondering what the 2 holes in the top of the Carrier are for ??
labeled in Pict as Hole 1 and Hole 2
Noticed they were in my original carrier, the spare carrier i have on hand has the same holes in same location, but saw one the had Hole 2 in same spot, but hole 1 was on the left left near where the Arm Connects ?
well spent some time going through hundreds of 1929 photos, and seems that many mount the tire to that the joint in the rim is at 12 o'clock this would locate the valve stem at the location to use Hole 2 as a pass through. makes sense, especially is you are using those larger metal style stems.
also seen a few where they mount the joint at 7 oclock
spent time today putting on the first coat of BLACK in the grooves on the 19*29 bumpers.
tried 2 methods:
1-tape off the grooves and paint the grooves
...takes time and effort to tape, not to mention tape ;)
...looks good and clean as long as you put the tape on straight to follow the grooves
2-slap on the paint in the grooves and wipe clean
...less prep time
...can be messy with black paint :)
for me doing (2) was easier
i painted the grooves using a small hobby brush just wide enough to fit the groove. i cleaned and prepped the surface before applying any paint !! once i put on a layer of paint in the grooves i took an old sock, got it damp with paint thinner, and then wrapped it TIGHTLY around a small 2.x block i had in my scrap pile. then wiped from one end of bumper to other end to remove excess paint, then flipped to clean side of sock and did it once more to make sure excess was gone. used a new sock on each bar to make sure i did NOT spread or smear the paint. once i had all the bars done i took a clean rag and wiped each one down to remove any reside. then let dry. i will apply another layer of paint once the first coat dries.
now waiting for all my parts 30+ to get primed and painted black !! dropped off with friend at local body shop, since it has been cold & wet here for months, and i can NOT paint in the garage, no room plus car is in there !! once all the parts come back it will be assembly time.
went and picked up the parts i had dropped off at the painter
i did all the blastin & prepping
almost time to start putting them on the car !!
got the buckets, rings, and crossbar back from paint :) going to start working on rebuilding the headlamps. pulled the information from the MPPL, IOC, & Repair Manual. None of them provide detailed information on HOW to put together the headlamp assembly correctly, other that the color of bucket is Black and the Rim is Chrome, and note that the parking light is ABOVE the headlamp.The PO did not have them assembled correctly as I have learned. so I am going on what looks like the proper way to assemble and install.
I will first BUILD the headlamp assembly, then once i have both done move onto installing them on the bar :)
I have for assembly:
Reflector x2 (Redone by Uvira)
Pigtail 3-way x2 (New from TFS)
Bucket x2 (stripped, primed, and painted Gloss Black)
Clamp x2 (stripped and primed)
Bulbs 1110 x2 (High/Low beam)
Bulbs #55 x2 (Parking Light)
Gaskets/Seals x2 (New Cork Style from TFS)
Lens x2 (Have NOS plus originals which are worn -> road blasted) pict is of old
Rims x2 (New from TFS) pict is of old
fresh aluminization reflectors by Uvira
3 way pigtail for headlamps
freshly painted headlamp buckets
my bulb assortment, well some of them anyways
new cork gasket for headlamp from The Filling Station
original headlamp Lens, i have a set of NOS that i will use, this are pretty road blasted
Original rings that we re on car, i have a set of New Chrome ones also from The Filling Station
Here is my Plan of Action:
install the Pigtail into the reflector
...install headlamp socket in center of reflector w/ 2 wires secure w/spring clamp, parking lamp socket above headlamp w/ 1 wire secure w/spring clamp, left hanging is main connector w/ 3 wires
install reflector into bucket
...install main connector (left hanging above) into bucket, and secure (bend tab over into place)
???which way is up on connector or only goes one way or not relevant ???
...use tabs and slots to install and secure
...ensure parking lamp is above headlamp !!
install clamp ring around bucket and reflector
...ensure hardware is at bottom of assembly and do NOT over tighten
???are these one way install or can they be installed either way flip front to back ???
install bulbs into sockets in reflector
...test bulbs to ensure they work and function correctly
...use notch to align properly
...install with prism side IN and text "TOP" legible from front top outside
...seat and secure rim to bucket
...ensure gasket is seated, lens secure
repeat for other headlamp assembly
I am not certain on this, due to that mine were not truly assembled when i got it, assume the gasket goes between reflector and lens to seal out moisture ?? could be wrong on the location ?!?
also got my Headlamp Bar back from paint last night !!
getting ready for assembly just need validation of assembly of the parts for the actual headlamp noted above
got the carrier back from paint and looking good !! i am happy with the results, now to start assembly and installation on car
close up of the newly welded on nut after clean up and paint, looks almost factory
close up of top rear
close up of front
here are a few shots of the buckets as well, they were painted black in the paint batch...
Back of headlamp bucket
closeup of the mounting and connection
inside of the bucket
got the apron back from paint today as well... nice sharp black !!
now to install the chrome strips using my specially created hardware above, then i can install it on the car !!
front radiator splash apron with fresh paint
closeup left side
close up center, i have a NEW center cover tunnel
closeup right side
another top view
as part of my restoration I am building 2 tail and stop lamp fixtures
1-will be completely stock configuration and set up, as original as i can get. housing, bulbs, connection, etc...
2-will be the LED conversion I got from TFS, going to use a stock housing that has been gutted for the LED kit, however I will use the standard connection coming into the housing vs hard wiring. this way i can swap back and forth or such if i do a show or what have you.
I did a test fit of the LED kit in the housing and made sure everything would work and fit BEFORE tearing it apart, then blasted the housings and sent off to paint.
here are a few of the housings blasted and the guts removed from the LED housing
this was a rough blast, they will be reblasted and cleaned up before going to paint
Housings after they were rough blasted then sitting around in humidity, both are exact same housing
Left will be for LED MOD and Right will be rebuild as stock
back side of the housings
this is the hardware removed from the housing and the original 1929 Glass lens
a picture of the NEW Lens kit and lens Kit Hardware, did NOT realize there were two different sizes of lens until i went to order from Gary Wallace...
had to go measure my existing glass (it is chipped) to figure out which one i needed for the housings. luckily both housing are the same lens, so ordered 2 kits, this is jsut a picture of 1 kit, as they are identical !!
here are some pictures of the housing back from paint, they look nice and shiny black...
mask tape is still on part, will remove that when i go to assemble them.
looking sharp and clean, ready for guts. on the original one, i may try to clean up and get a nice reflective coating on the reflector portion, hopefully this will REFLECT the light outwards vs absorbing it. the small incandescent bulbs do not put out a lot of light, so they need all the help they can get !!
a few more picts of the housings...
the LED housing looks kind of rough on the inside, but it is still a NICE SOLID piece, and not really concerned about the inside looks at this point.
next I will start to rebuild the housings
when i am done goal is to have both of them look exactly alike on the outside so that you can NOT tell the difference by just looking at them, only when they LIGHT up :)
sent out the wiper motor to paint with the rest of my parts and it is back ready for install along with the bracket
ok, i ended up getting a set of 1929 dust covers from a fellow VCCA member in great shape :)
i blasted the covers and then sent off to paint with all my other parts...
all nice and black now, ready for install
ok so looking at GROUNDING headlamps
the socket housings are ground for the bulbs
they are grounded to the reflectors via contact 7 spring clips that hold them in place against back of housing
reflector contacts the housing via contact & clamp ring
housing is grounded to the headlight cross bar via contact (threaded stud into nut)
cross bar is grounded to the fender via contact and hardware (nuts n bolts)
Fenders grounded to frame via contact & hardware (nuts & bolts)
do stanchions provide grounding via contact to fenders & then to frame ??
if you use rubber pads under the crossbars does it reduce the grounding to fenders or about the same due to paint ??
is this about right or am i missing something, as there is no ground wire to the headlamps only metal chassis ground
ok been working on my bumper, had to Straighten a 1929 Bumper Mounting Bracket as well as re arc the crossbars.
then 1929 Bumper Groove Painting
ordered new end bumper hardware and found a place that sold chrome hardware, so ordered new hardware for the medallions as well.
spent some time to build the bumper this weekend....
few shots of assembling the front bumper
the the rear, was similar, had to reshape the brackets...
all new hardware for ends and medallions.
here they are
all ready for installation !!
ok took some time tonight to assemble my splash apron. have to say the lil fasteners i created earlier are awesome and worked great.
here are some shots of the assembly going together and the complete assembly.
apron is now ready to be installed on the car !!
Picture of my custom Hardware to replace the older T-Bolts that were not in my parts.
Hardware sliding into the open groove, nice fit and free to slide
hardware in groove ready to be installed on Apron
apron complete with Chrome Strips and Hardware installed
Close up of the left and right chrome strips and fresh black paint on Apron
Close up of the rear side of the hardware. had to use a flat washer as the lock washer would pop through the holes in the sheet metal when trying to tighten.
actually installed my rear bumpers today, as well as the signal lights i made up for the car. these are NOT factory but more for safety ( too many crazy drivers out there)
used all new hardware as well, they look great, and notice the spare tire carrier is installed as well
left side view showing brackets
good angle view of left side bumper and signal/brake light
head on view of left side bumper and signal/brake light
head on view of right side bumper and signal/brake light
angle view of right side bumper and signal/brake light
per a recommendation i painted the inside of the housing gloss white, it should help reflect the little bit of light that the bulbs put out
i painted both the standard housing and the conversion LED housing.
Tail Lamp housing that will be restored all original
This is the LED housing
got my stanchions from TFS and opened them up to start laying out and building my front end
question, are they supposed to be straight up and down (90 degrees post to base) or should they be angled ??
mine are angled one more so then the other. attached are a few pictures of them
stanchions side by side for comparison, yes lean to right
stanchions top down, bases are square to each other, notice difference
looking straight on, notice the angle difference
stanchion 1 against the square
stanchion 2 against the square
updated on my painting insides... got a few coats of paint on them, all cured, and removed the tape...
should be ready for rebuilding, and yes i will remove paint from target areas to ensure proper ground :) at least i hope
here are a few of the Stock Housing Rebuild
back of stock housing
inside, gloss white background, silver reflector
lower half for tail/parking light (original hardware)
rear of stock housing angled
Here are few of the LED conversion Housing
inside, clean shiny white
few angled views of inside
back of LED housing, ready for original hardware to go back in
looking at bulbs, can someone help verify
Manual says the tail lamp (lower lamp) is 3 candle power:
Candle Power: 3
Life: 1000 hours
then the STOP lamp (upper lamp) is a 15 candle power
Candle Power: 15
Life: 300 hours
i went with these bulbs based on my notes and research :)
actually got my Original Stop/Tail lamp built and almost ready for Install !! just need to mount it and test it.
here are a the [pictures of the assembly, i bought the lens mounting kit for the clear lens. i also cleaned up the copper bars/strips, housing, etc to ensure a good clean ground and contact.
A Look Inside before Bulbs
Close Up of Tail Lamp Holder
New Hardware for License Lens
View of Clear License Lens
NOS Lens, Gasket, Trim Ring
New Clear License Plate Lens and Homemade Gasket
New License Lens Installed with Gasket and NEW Hardware from Gary Wallace
Close Up of Hardware, Gasket, and Lens
Tail Light Lens
did a light CHECK as well to ensure the lights worked and there were NO issues at this point... everything worked like a charm :)
i used a set of clips and connected ground to the mounting bolt, then touched the positive to one of hte two points inside the bayonet connector.
Light Test: Parking/ License Lamp
Light Test: Stop Lamp
Light Test: Parking/ License Lamp & Stop lamp
Light Test: Parking/ License Lamp
Light Test: Stop lamp
Light Test: Parking/ License Lamp & Stop lamp
spent some time planning out and working on the LED conversion for the other housing. goal was I want it to LOOK original with the standard socket and all. just different guts :)
i was originally going to solder the wires directly to the brass/copper connectors on the socket, but as i got into it decided why NOT just shape them to fit a spade terminal !! this way i can unplug the wires and remove the LED board if needed for service, cleaning, etc... then i can trim the wires and solder and wrap the connectors onto the ends of the wires. one is tail, one for stop, and one for ground. put a lug on the ground then filed that to fit on the carriage bolt square.
backside of connector, shaped them to fit a spade connector
lens, gasket & hardware installed
round lug filed to fit square of carriage bolt for ground
LED board all connected and bracket secured, ready for install
close up of Grounding Lug on Carriage Bolt
LED Board & Wiring all secured and ready for lens, bezel, and gasket
a rear view of connector and housing
got it all assembled and looking good !! i am VERY happy with the results.
final light test of the LED board... this thing is BRIGHT !!
View of the Tail Light Lit up
View of the Stop Light Lit up
View of the License Plate Lights Lit Up
finally here are a few shots of them side by side for comparison.
They are 2 different lens, so they do look a little different. one is a NOS RELITE one is a Repro
I am pretty happy with them, i do have the stickers to apply to the glass to make it look more original. also gonna keep eye out on the Celluloid lens just in case.
now to install ONE on the car and move forward with restoration...
front, top down view
top angle view
bottom angle view
pretty hard to tell them apart unless you look inside the plate lens to see the guts !! and that is what i want
cleaned up the lens and put on the CHEVROLET decal from TFS on my Original Tail/Stop Housing
with Tail Light on
Brake Light On
finally mounted the NEW data serial plate to the floor panel where the original one was installed
got the Stop/Tail Lamp Assembly installed last night
will have to test it next to ensure there is a GOOD ground !!
really starting to come together
side view, you can see the signal lights as well
head on shot with armor cable
rear view of taillight and connection
looking up from below
general shot of taillamp
Installed the Crank Hole Cover tonight on the Radiator Apron, this is the one i got from TFS and produced by C&P Automotive. it is very nicely done and fits good. also glad that the blacks match.
was a simple easy install !! and looks GREAT
broke out my NOS lens and cleaned them up to get ready to assemble the headlamps
front of box
rear of box
part number on front of box
close-up of lens
got most of my parts sorted on the bench for assembly
one headlamp minus reflector
armor cable, pigtail, clamp
lens, gasket, ring
washer, nut, clamps
can someone validate the thread diameter and thread per inch for the 1929 hub cap and mating thread.
unfortunately my thread gauge will not FIT in the area to measure it. looks to be approx 2-3/8" diameter. my thread gauge is the L-type worked great till now and it is too big @!
gonna have to order another thread pitch gauge (smaller compact style)
any easy way to chase the threads inside the cap to clean them up any ??
here are some pictures of the original caps I have as well the hub on the car they screw onto.
Wheel Hub OD
Wheel Hub TPI
Original Hub ID
Original Hub Face
a few of the Repro Hubs
Repro Hub ID
Close-Up of Threads
put up a post to help ID the reflectors that i have so that i an find their owner.
i have bought a set of reflectors from fellow Member Chip, he packed and shipped them to me, I now have to take them over to the plater to get quotes on copper and nickel plate / polish. as well as the time frame to do so.
i did a test fit and went over them twice to ensure form fit function. bucket fitment, socket fitment, etc...
inside of the reflectors
backside of the reflectors
dropped of my repro hub caps to see if a local shop could chase and clean up the threads. going by today to look and see how they are coming or not
also going to make a trip this week out to the plater to get a quote on getting the reflectors stripped, copper, nickel, and polished so i can send them out to Uvira for a second try.
ok the plater wants $175 each to strip, clean up, copper, nickel, silver, polish.... about 3 weeks
so $350 for finished complete Silvered Reflectors or Nickel Plated
i asked about only doing up to nickel, he said, same price either way ?!? silver must be cheap or they are overcharging up front ?!?
figuring all the work is in prep as it always is. stripping and filling in pits and doing copper coats.that is where it all is. I am ok since it will result in a superior finished product.
i got him down to $300 out the door...
think i am going to stop at the polished nickel so that i can get Bill (Uvira)to aluminize them, seems to be a superior quality and longer lasting product and no tarnish/polishing required :)
I might be misunderstanding, but I would get your finish criteria from Bill/Uvira. This might save you a few $$ and provide the finish he prefers. Can't see new Al over new Ag.
well got a letter in the mail today from Bill (Uvira)
he refunded my money, as well as cost to ship my reflectors out to him !!
he asked that i send him the set that was sent to me on accident. I am good with that, and hope they find their home
Have to say Bill has provided me TOP NOTCH customer service and i truly appreciate that !! something that you do NOT see or get much anymore anywhere.
now just have to wait for my reflectors to get done at the plater.... ZZZzzzzz
well decided to clean up the chewed up threads on the hubs, as well as chase the threads on my new repro hub caps. problem is they are 2-3/8-16 threads, which is non-standard as well as being a big thread. after talking to a few machine shops around and figuring would have to go lathe, i found a tap and a die on ebay the tap said it was used but in great shape, the die was listed as new. they arrived and when i opened them up they both looked new never used !! got them from 2 different sellers funny thing they both were in California :) got them for a good price considering they usually run about $200-250 each !! that is my price through work.
got them in last nigh and cleaned/chased the threads on the hubs
oh yeah in order to chase the hubs, i did not have a large enough wrench 3.75" across flats to get on the die, so i got it started by hand. then had to use my strap wrench to spin and thread it on. that worked great. i backed it off and ran one more time to ensure clean threads. now it goes on and off completely by hand !! man what a difference !!!
try to tackle the hub caps this weekend...
2 3/8-16 Die on the left, Tap on the right...
a front hub cleaned up
a rear hub cleaned up
took and chased the threads on the repro hubcaps tonight. that tap cuts that aluminum like BUTTER !!
was very easy and simple to do. i secured the tap in my bench vise, then get the cap started on the tap and used my strap wrench and threaded each one on till it bottomed out. then back it off.
now they screw on very easily and smoothly on the hubs i cleaned up last night !!
Tap secured in bench vise
first hubcap started on the tap
using strap wrench to thread the hubcap
nice clean full threads !!
test fit on front hub
Nothing like the right tool for the job! I look at all the hand tools passed down to me from my dad and the other tools like my lathe/vertical Miller, that I’ve acquired myself and think sometimes that when I’m gone, they’ll probably be thrown away because not to many will even know how to use them. My own son, who’s fairly mechanical and a industrial electrician foreman, has told me he’s looking to purchase a farm in TN somewhere that also has a multi stall garage. While I know he loves raising cattle and horses, I asked him why a big garage. He proceeded to tell me he figured my wife and I could come visit during the winter months and I could set up a restoration shop. He said he feels he’s missing out on a lot of things he could learn from me and having me there would be good for all of us. Sometimes I still think there’s hope for some of the younger generation!
Since i am waiting for my headlamp reflectors to get plated i decided to do a once over on the front end and pull the brake trunion assembly and check it completely over. since i have realized the PO did a lot of paint over and NOT rebuilding all the assemblies and pieces.
i removed the drivers side assembly and decided to tear it completely down and strip, prime, paint the parts and rebuild completely.
while tearing them down i learned QUICKLY that these things probably have NOT been apart since 1929 when they were initially put together !!
looks like the PO attempted to remove a few screws and stripped the heads out !! that was NOT fun, had to soak them for a while and the use a screwdriver and hammer to tap them around to spin them out. these were the 2 flat head slotted screws on the flat plate. the passenger side screws were easily removed !!
then the woodruff key that was in the shaft for the pivot, that thing refused to come out !! i soaked it twice for a few hours each, nothing, tried to tap it to rock it loose, tried a small screwdriver to hopefully rock it in the keyway, nothing. had to resort to heat and vise grips. took a good amount of heat and several attempts before the key finally gave up and popped out !! BOTH sides were like this.
shot of the key, notice the corrosion
top view of corrosion and attempt to rock it with hammer, screwdriver, pliers
keyway in shaft
finally got is all disassembled and laid out on the bench
plan to strip, prime, paint all the parts then reassemble and install on the car.
one assembly tore down
while working on the Front Brakes and removing to rebuild and replace the trunion kit i noticed that it looked like the fender brackets were painted while on the car, as i could see a shadow in the underside of the fender. so last night i decided to remove the fender brackets so they could be blasted and primed, as well as touch up the underside of the fenders.
actually had to CUT off several of the bolts, as they were rusted and painted in place !! as well as whatever was lying around for replacement by previous owner.
few picts of the hardware after removal
looks weird, like maybe was taken apart then assembled and painted with rusty old hardware, which would NOT be the only old rusty hardware i found. along with mismatched and whatever hardware could be found.
blasted the bracket, primed and painted them tonight, as well as worked the inside of the fenders, removed rust, and blended in black to clean them up. may need another coat tomorrow, but will know then.
well cleaned up the fenders and top coated them, man what a difference.
then primed and painted the brackets. everything looks great now, once i get the new hardware in i can install them and move forward.
spent some time blasting all the front end brake assembly parts
put on two coats of primer and 2 coats of gloss black
bought some of those paints stands in the paint department for holding parts off the surface, look like little pyramids, they seemed to work good on keeping the part off the cardboard
cleaned up the shafts, chased all the threads internal and external, straightened the bent threaded rods, etc...
looking at the components to put back together, there were 2 gaskets inside the assembly
wondering what the material is/ should be
goes on the flat surfaces of the round cylinder that the cam goes through, they sit between the ends of the round part and the housing.
they seem to hold the parts apart to keep metal from metal rubbing, but allow freedom to turn a small amount for the brakes to work.
assembly housing, gasket, rotating part , gasket, cover
gasket against rotating part
gasket against the inside of the housing
assembly, other gasket goes against the cover, bt the rotating part and cover
ended up get some custom gaskets made, a local company cut me some graphite gaskets to my dimensions. these are high temp, high heat gaskets so they should be perfectly fine. plus being graphite reinforced with steel mesh they should hold up just fine. they are made to be compressed and once assembled worked great.
while assembling i also put some high temp grease on the parts that need to move.
everything was going fine until i tried to thread the rod end bolt into the new brass bushings for the trunion. one ended up breaking, they were really hard to thread out, as the bolts were mangled and bent up pretty bad, i tried to straighten them out, but seems the were a little weak, but at 90 years old, hey. i did some looking and hunting and found many rod ends but the ones that were 5/16" to match are all threaded 18 threads per inch and the ones on the car and mating hardware are 24 threads per inch. luckily i found a company that makes blanks in various lengths. so i bought 3 5/16" diameter by 3 inches long. this gives me one to tinker and learn on and 2 for the brake assemblies. the blanks will have to be drilled for the clevis pin, and then threaded the full length of the bolt. yes all three inches. they should be here by this weekend, and then i will tackle those !! but got most everything else assembled on the front brakes. once i get those rod end completed i can complete the assembly and hopefully installed on the car !!
also installed the repainted front fender supports. what a difference, will touch up the bolts and paint them black as well to blend in.
called and talked to the plater yesterday, he said the reflectors should be done in the next day or two. said they are looking really good.
they will be all polished nickel, ready for Bill @ Uvira !! hoping to get them out to him within a day or two of receiving them from plater.
got the other tags/plates installed on the generator and distributor last night.
also installed the new Fisher Body Tag i got, used the rivet bolt kit from TFS worked great !!
those wondering how good of a job AGBackeast did on my Fisher body tag, I'd say he did a superb job.
here is a comparison picture.
Original on Top - Repro on the Bottom
working on the assembly, the two rod ends were bent and jacked up. working to try and gently straighten and reassemble the end. one of the rod end bolts snapped. spent some time looking around trying to find replacements. i am able to find similar size and shape but only with 5/16-18 threading, the ones on the brakes are 5/16-24 !! 5/8" diameter head, 5/16 width OAL of 3.25".
i was able to find a source for blank rod ends, and picked up a few, however they need to be cleaned up and then threaded and a 5/16 hole for the pin punched. talked to a few local machine shops but no one wants to do the work, not worth the time they say.
well kind of idle for now with the car, not much to do...
Reflectors are at plater, supposed to get nickeled tomorrow, then polished, so once i can pick them up they will go out west to Uvira to get aluminized. so another 2-3 weeks before i can get to work on assembling the headlamps and front end.
Front Brakes are at at stop, need to get either new rod ends or custom made brass nuts with standard threading on them. stock rod ends are 5/16-18 whereas the brass nuts are 5/16-24.
think that is about it, other then going over the brakes again and setting them once i get the issue fixed. put together front end, requires headlamps, firing up and tuning/test drive, need brakes and wheels for that. and a once over to make sure i got everything.... probably about 90% complete at this point !!
i did a test fitting and make a tool to test for alignment. looks like they should line up pretty close.
I&I gasket with the washers stacked to prevent the stanchion base from collapsing once tightened (they come in the kit)
gasket set, stanchion installed, hardware placed (loose)
setup with tool i made to test fitment and alignment
close up of tool
(long bolt, washer, bolt for head lamp bucket & piece of pex cut to length to allow 1/2 of thread to protrude
this also required a test fit of the radiator splash apron
bolted up front bumper along with signal lights and such
started working on my headlamp wiring
installed the armor on the sire and ran it into the radiator shell, through grommet.
now i can solder on the connectors and get it complete .
well spent 5 minutes this morning generating a 3d model of the insulator
modeled it after the original one i had, put a step in the insulator so that the wire with shield (fabric) will stop at the step and only the bare wire will come through.this should make it easier to solder and handle. will print out a test piece tonight for fitment and function then adjust from there. fine tuning :)
here are some pictures of the original one and the broken one. very brittle
Original Insulator Front End (inserts)
Original Insert Rear Side, after cutting to fit
Other Insert that Broke
Another Angle of Broken Insert
Here are a few shots of the model i generated this morning that i will 3d print this afternoon.
on the rear side you can see the step for the wire stop
will try to post pictures when test fitting. hoping it works on first try :)
thinking of using #2 brass washers for the solder base.
Tin #2 brass washer, push wire end thru insulator, then place a tinned #2 brass washer over wire, solder up and build a nice connector. file as needed. figure the washer would help keep heat off insulator from solder iron plus would assist in making a nice round connector button.
well made of 3 concepts for the replacement insulator one that:
1-mimics the original
2-mimics original with chamfer lead for easy wire entrance
3-same as above bu with radii on entering edge to seat smoothly against the TFS replacement sockets
took about 1 hour to print them out, they looked really good. i tried
1- it fit fine, had to work the wires to get them to come through. it fit nicely in the socket housing. it was a little recess inside the housing.
2- general fitment is the same wire was a lot easier to feed into each hole with the chamfers. also recessed a little inside the housing.
3- same general fitment, a lot easier to get it into the housing with that leading radii wires are easy to feed with the internal chamfers and it also seated better in the housing, sits almost flush
ordered some #2 brass washers today, should be here wednesday, no one local carries them that small. plan to tin one side of the washers, drop one washer over each wire tip poking through, solder the tip and washer with a nice solder ball. then file them down nice and even and flat on top. should be good to go at that point.
3 sample pieces, 1, 2, 3 (notice radii on top edge)
wires fed though insulator, tips just poke through
housing slipped on for test fit, notice groove to right for pin in housing for proper alignment
good shot of assembled parts
close up of insulator , can see it is slightly recessed
for those interested here is a model view of the printed part that works best for the TFS Armor Cables I got.
Here are some shots from the model:
1-front angle view (small holes)
2-rear angle view (large holes and radii edges)
3-front section View showing the chamfer to feed the wire to the front hole
Hardest part done,just need to bore the head and mill it to dimension
Looking Good Ted, GREATLY appreciate your time and efforts with machining the rod ends !!
thread are definitely the hard part, 3 inches of straight threads
got my brass washers in today, so was time to assemble and solder up the headlamp connections.
funny part is i ordered 10 #2S brass washers, went to pick them up and they gave me 100 washers. so i have som spares to test and play with as well as if anyone needs some let me know.
the washers were the perfect size for the connectors. installed the printed insulators on the wires, then slipped a washer over the tip of the exposed wire, then applied the heat to the wire, waited a few seconds then applied the solder to the washer and bam had a nice round ball. the solder sent right to the brass and made a near perfect mound.
my 10 #2S Brass Washers
3d Printed Custom Headlamp Insulators wire tip side
3d Printed Custom Headlamp Insulators wire insert side
washer placed over wire tip
beautiful round solder mounds for contact
another angle of solder before cleaning
pulled up the armor cable to the insulator
line up the notched and slide on socket cover
insulator fully installed and connector ready
test fit with mating headlamp socket
spent time today validating lighting. hooked up the battery and then checked signal lights installed. left works, right works, and hazard. and the LEDs are nice and bright !! also includes the third brake light i installed in the window via suction cups :) also has a connector just behind the seat so i can disconnect or tuck behind seat if needed. actually got it from Brake Lighter the factory brake light is the standard incandescent one.
all brake with lights on in garage
close up of incandescent tail/stop light
close up of Brake Lighter
tail light on brake light
tail light shining down
tested the dome light, knew it would work, Ted installed and configured it, so no issues there :)
Fun part was the Headlamps and Parking Lamps. since i have NOT rebuilt the headlamps yet, i rigged up a ground for each lamp socket and hooked up the pigtails directly to the new connector i did up. PO told me they were acting up or not wired correctly. when you turn them to park on the switch, the headlights come on ?!? then when you go to On the parking lights come on. i chased all the wires and made sure everything was correct, and under the dash the parking light and headlamp wires were revered. so swapped those around. now they work correctly with the dimmer switch on the floor as well. low beam is a single filament, high beam both filaments.
while tinkering around realized that the dash light was NOT working. had a new bulb and everything. pulled out the socket and tested voltage had full 6.4 volts going in, but no light. i metered inside socket to chassis ground. realized that the housing was tarnished over and would not ground.
pulled out the socket, cleaned it up with the dremel and we have light !! reinstalled and away we go.
with the brakes, realized that the light does NOT come on till the pedal is about 3/4 way to the floor. i know you can adjust the lever on that engages the switch. how does everyone set theirs ?? i pulled the brake switch out and it look good,tested with a meter and it does not make contact will 3/4 way through swing from open to closed.
the little piece that rotates and pushed the copper bar down for contact, should that have a flat spot on the bottom ?? third picture down
well picked up the reflectors today from plater... nickel polished :)
they look really good and refle ctive
shiny side up side by side
shiny side close up
shiny side looking straight in
shiny side side by side
shiny side at an angle
back side, side by side
back side angle
got up this morning and was going to wash and clean the reflectors and then pack them up to go to Uvira. washed them with a Microfiber towel and warm soapy water. then dried them with a microfiber towel. and all the towel did was snag. using a light you can see several high spots, sharp and pointy in several places on the inside of reflector. they are nice and shiny and reflect well, however you can really see the bad spots in the nickel. so Monday i will be making a return trip to them to talk with them.
NOT a happy camper now
well a good friend of mine, with skill, know how, and equipment was able to machine and thread my rod end blanks for my front brake trunion assembly on my 1929. Thanks Ted !! I received them in the mail saturday afternoon, and they look great, threads are straight, brass nuts go on easily and go all the way to the end. i did a test fitting to ensure they fit int he assemblies. they fit great just like the originals, as i knew they would. only difference is they are about a 1/4" shorter than stock, but this should not be an issue. Brass nut usually stays near middle or rod end. this brass nut is used for tuning and adjusting hte brakes when the pads begin to wear.
I am going to prime and paint the rod end, not the threads. then start to assemble the kits, and then hopefully install them on the car !! then i can reset and adjust the pedal, and brakes. and at that point i think i will only be waiting on the reflectors in order to install the headlamps !!
New Rods machined from Rod Blanks
New Rod vs Old Rod
Test Fitting of New Rods in Assemblies:
got around to re assembling the front trunion assemblies and installing them back on the car. everything went together nicely, and put a little bit of high temp brake grease on the components that have to swivel, rotate, or move. they look great and installed nicely. used all new hardware. used new springs from The Filling Station, they are NICE and tight !! next will be to install the bearings and then the front hubs, and wheels. at that point i will be ready to reset the brakes. i will adjust all four corners to be safe. i have the tool to set them so that is a plus.
new brass nuts on freshly machined rod ends
aluminum blocks installed, these are from C&P Automotive (Billy Possum) very nice work on them
installed on the swivel first
pin installed in leading hole
screw and washer installed to hold plate
aligning rod to slot and pin
pin pushed through rod end
another view lined up
cotter pin installed
now ready to go back on the car, had to assemble the drivers side and passengers side
installation on the car went smoothly, 2 screws hold it in place, i did a pretest fit before to ensure everything would fit nicely.
trunion assembly installed
shoes and new spring installed
front brake side 1 complete
installed my front wheels back on the car last night. packed a little more grease in the bearings and on the spindle. i previously cleaned and repacked them the first go round, and car has not been driven. installed new cotter pins as well.
pins and spindle hub
working on getting the 1929 ready to get on the road. Waiting on the reflectors to get back.
recently did Front Brake Trunion Replacement and yesterday decided to reset all the brakes following the service news. took my time and went step by step and double checked each one along the way. got that all set and done. decided i would spin a tire or two and then step on the pedal to make sure everything worked. and they stopped, but the pedal did NOT come back up. I have brand new springs and the pedal used to come back. I remember 4+ years ago when i did this i lubed up the cross shafts as they were tight. i am assuming this is the same scenario again. i have to manually pull the pedal back up or rotate the cross shafts via pliers to return to neutral.
my understanding that the bushings are a metal that tend to swell over time or break down.
what is the best way to lubricate the cross shafts bushings. last time i used spray lithium grease. i was going to use some penetrating oil to get things moving. also how often should i be lubricating the shafts to avoid this in the future ??
1-well it seems that the brake pedal also rubs/scrapes against the upper floor plate. since it screws into set holes in the plate and the cowl there is no wiggle room, the pedals had new bushings and no real slop in them on the shaft. should i try to put in a spacer between the brake pedal and the transmission on the shaft to shift pedal left a little ?? will have to see if that would cause the clutch pedal to rub. or do i need to pull the brake pedal off the shaft and use the press to move it left a 1/4 or so ?? think the clutch pedal was pretty dead center on the plate slots. so seems like the brake pedal is off a little [email protected]?
2-looks like i am going to take out the cross shafts clean them up, prime and paint them. want to make sure they are smooth operators, and this is probably the best way to do so.is there anything that i should know/ watch out for when removing them ?? looks like i will have to disconnect and remove the exhaust system in order to get the cross shaft out on the drivers side.looks like 2 bolts on bracket on drivers side, same on passenger, then 2 bolts holding center support to transmission. am i missing anything ??
on Monday went by platers, talked with them, got the reflectors taken care of.
Monday evening cleaned them up, packed them up and prepped for shipping.
Tuesday dropped them off with the local Postal Service to head to Oregon via 3-day Priority Mail.
Bill at Uvira contacted me on Friday to let me know that he had received my reflectors, and that they would be top priority on his list for Monday, as they are closed Friday. so I was very happy to hear that he went out to get my reflectors and validate them and get back to me on his day off. Bill said if all goes well they should be back on their way to me by Tuesday !!
Got an email Monday afternoon from Bill, reflectors were cleaned and plated, then coated all before lunch on Monday. they are packaged back up and waiting for FedEx to pick them up to return them to me.
Based on tracking, and he shipped the FedEx ground, will be 5-7 business days before they get here. West Coast to East Coast.
so looks like i should have them back mid next week. as soon as i get the box i will open, validate and test fit. want to make sure i get MINE back this time ASAP :)
well it was a very busy very productive Friday night...
i decide to try and tackle the rubbing pedal issue. i pulled 2 metal toe board plates that go around the steering column and pedal, and removed the screws holding in the toe board, i was able to cock the toe board enough to remove both the clutch and the brake pedal. i used my 20 ton press to tweak and straighten out the pedal arms. did a few test fits, and then trimmed the metal plates around the pedals by about 1/8" inch for insurance. you can not even tell they were trimmed unless you sit them on top of another untrimmed set. but now both pedals move freely and do NOT rub anything !! each time i did a test fit i have to bolt in the floor, bot int he plates, test and double test. then undo it all remove the pedals and press some more. a little at a time.
after i was happy with the fit, i removed all the metal parts i just worked with and sanded them up and prepped them for fresh primer and paint. i will do that tomorrow when i get the rest of the brake parts out so i can paint everything at once.
got up this morning and hit the brakes right after breakfast. in order to remove the cross shafts in the 1929 i have to first remove the exhaust as is is directly under the cross shafts and there is not really enough clearance to get the cross shafts out. dropping the exhaust was pretty easy and simple. put it all on the bench for now until ready to go back in.
now on the cross shafts, i used my milk crate and some 2x4 to build my some cribbing under the center of the car just to be safe and ensure that it just did not drop and squash me. i removed the center hardware first, then loosened the 2 bolts on each side, then remove all but 1 bolt on each side. then pulled them out slowly while supporting the cross shaft assembly. dropped it down onto my chest and rolled out on my creeper and done. now to tear it down, clean it up, free up the bushings, and then prime, paint, and reinstall.also plan to remove all the spray lithium grease i put in a few years back when i first got the car.
got everything torn down and ready for strip, primer, paint process, laid everything out on the bench and labeled the hardware and pieces so i do not forget what is what.
now onto the fun part, freeing up the shafts !!
what i did was strip off the paint on the shafts just outside where the bushings are now. about 2-3 inches. then used brake clean with straw to blow out all the debris and grease/oil in the bushings. then gently tapped the bracket down the shafts using a block of wood and my mallet. when the bracket/bushings hit the cleaned shaft they moved easily and freely. it looks like the PO painted the shafts and then put brackets back in place, so there was paint, and crap on the shafts. i cleaned them up with some fine sandpaper, i did this for both ends. then put the bracket/ bushing back in position. and i could easily spin the shafts by hand with no effort at all. did not take any pictures of the gunk on the shafts under the bushings, hands were messy, and was not about to touch my phone to try and get a picture, i was in the zone of cleaning !!
then i cleaned up the shafts from end to end, and all the attached hardware, so i can prime, paint, and reassemble.
once all cleaned up i taped off the shafts areas, and bushings and then primed and painted the shafts and pieces. this will be a 2 step process to ensure i get everything painted and do NOT get paint on the bushing areas of the bushings
Well on sunday i continues with the painting, got that all finished and will let it cure for a bit. removed all the mask and did some clean up.
in between coats and flipping the cross shafts, i reinstalled the pedals, plate cover and mat. everything looks great and seems that i now have consistent clearance around the pedals !! so hopefully NO rubbing or interference. will find out when i start driving it and actually getting on the pedals.
clutch return spring and adjustment installed
angled view of pedal clearance
underside view of pedal clearance
mat going back in
on the cross shafts, i masked off the areas where the shafts will ride plus a little clearance for adjustments :) based this on how they were installed and where everything was when removed. still ahve a little touch up and clean up to do, and will take care of that in the next night or two.
question is, on the bushings/ shaft areas of contact should i use:
1-a few drops of general purpose oil
2-a thin coat of general bearing grease
ok so started to put the linkage assembly back in the car. on the bench everything moves freely and easily by hand. little or no effort required to spin a shaft or slide a shaft or any component on it. bearing surfaces were greased with a syn grease.
mounting in the car with everything loose things move freely, but not a freely as they did on bench. if i tighten the drivers side at all the shafts are hard to turn at all by hand, if i only tighten the passenger side i can freely move either shaft. not sure what it could be ?? bracket or something out of whack ??
well first things first... i got a package in from FedEx today, and it was from Uvira. Opened it up to find MY 1929 Reflectors, well the set i just sent him last week. they look great !! i validated they are mine, and when i get time i will open them up and start my headlamp assembly.
task for the night was to try a few suggestion i received to get the brake shafts moving freely when tightened down. Noting that with all the hardware installed loosely, just enough to hold the assembly up in the frame, the shafts turned freely very little resistance at all.
first made sure the bushings were moving and rotating, just in case a bracket was crooked or off. made a small tool out of aluminum, basically a 1" wide flat piece maybe about 1/16" or so thick and rolled the 1" wide part over a socket and beat it with a mallet to make it lay flat against the bushing face. then used the mallet to tap the flat end of the aluminum bar to see if the bushings move, they all moved pretty easily when not under any stress or tension while installed. this had no effect on the spinning of the shafts. once i tightened the front bolt on the drivers side i could NOT turn the front shaft by hand and the rear shaft was a lot harder to turn.
second tightened everything down and then used my mallet to see if tapping the brackets would assist in easing things up, maybe brackets were not straight, etc... no such luck. tried both sides, few options, no go.
third thought about shims as mentioned above. with hardware loose, i pressed the drivers side bracket up against the frame and then used my feeler gauge to see if there was any gap between the bracket and the frame rail and if so how much. on the drivers side the back bolt hole was flush, no clearance, the front had about a .045" gap. so i got out my collection of 5/16 washers and measured them all. had a good range from .040" up to .075" thick. tried a .040" worked good, so tried a .050" and worked great. tried a .060" and back to binding again. so no shim in rear and a .050" shim on the front for the drivers side. did the same for the passenger, and ended up only needing .025" shim. so put in a .065" in the front and a .040" in the rear. and then tightened everything down. and wow they all move freely, not 100% like on the bench but about 90% !!! i can easily and freely turn either shaft with one hand by just grabbing the shaft and turning it.
installed the springs to do a return test and wow the snap back into position quickly and nicely. i will redo the complete brake setting procedure and then see what happens, that is on the agenda for tomorrow. then i can reinstall the exhaust system and secure that once again.
drivers side with springs installed
look closely you can see the .040" washer between bracket on right and frame rail on left.
oh yeah just in case... the springs on the shafts near the center support work great !!
if i push or pull the shaft to the left or right, they easily pull the shaft back to the center point set. they did NOT do that before. so that is another huge plus.
i THINK i have the cross shafts ready to go... i THINK and HOPE
well last night went out and adjusted all the brakes, linkages, etc... for the brakes.
check em once check em twice, make sure i had all my pins in and secured
did a courtesy check, spun some wheels by hand stepped on brake, and they stopped.
main point is the pedal gracefully returns to its natural upright position ;) (yes it put the tray back in the upright position as well)
then i realized that i did NOT connect the brake return springs !! ugh, that was a quick minute fix, and now the pedal quickly returns home.
content for now, i know once i get it road bound i will need to drive, adjust, drive adjust once all the new shoes break in and settle, also at that point the will probably be more assertive in stopping and stopping NOW :)
tonight i will shoot for getting the exhaust back in the car. and then i should be back where i was months ago ;) ready to build some head lamps !!
spent a hour or so reinstalling and securing the exhaust system, down pipe, muffler, and tailpipe. ensured it was all in correctly and seated. did some black paint touch up underneath after doing the brake and exhaust install, few scratches, nicks, etc.
NOW i think i am back to where i was a few months ago BEFORE taking on the brakes and such. next venture will be to build and assemble the headlamps and bar. then get ready to install them on the car. that will get me almost there :)
alright, time to get back to work, enjoyed the week off and on vacation with the family... but need to get the 1929 completed, or at least really close and running !
started to tinker with the headlamp assemblies tonight, opened up the reflectors i got back from Bill @ Uvira, shiny shiny shiny
soldered a ground from socket to socket to ensure i have a good solid ground to each socket & light
slipped on the retaining clips over each socket to prep for install
lined up each socket and the pins pushed them through and then spun them gently and slowly to lock the pins into the recesses inside. and then made sure the clips were locked in under the other pins on the sockets.
looks good and should stay in place
next step i put the main socket into the bucket and bent the clip back in place to hold it. i also sanded the outside of the socket as well as the inside of the socket holder on the bucket to ensure a good solid ground.
close up of tab sticking straight out on left
tab bent over holding in socket connector
finally slid in the reflector assembly and ensured all wires were free and clear of obstructions, and then locked in the reflector via twisting it to lock in tabs.
the next step will to build the front assembly and put it on the lower bucket assembly, after i install the bulbs.
i have a stock set of 1000 bulbs which are 21cp - 21cp
ordered a 2 sets of LED replacement bulbs (each a different type/style of LED) for the 1000 bulbs, gonna see how they look and work BEFORE i install on the car.
as for building the top, plan to proceed as follows:
lay the chrome trim ring on the bench, install the glass lens, raise glass face down (outwards) using the metal tab to align
...should the tab be bent over the lens to hold in place or does it also hold the gasket, and go into the bucket assy ?? or just stick straight up ??
install the gasket on top of the glass lens
...does gasket sit on top of the tab, or go inside the tab
place the trim ring on the gasket, flat lip down towards glass
...or does it go flat lip away from glass
question does this tab:
1- get bent over like it is to hold the lens in, or what does it hold in if bent over
2- should this tab be straight up and down
3- how should this tab be
does this tab mate or insert to anything else (the bucket/reflector assembly)
yeah seems logical that it would go in the slot/groove formed by the reflector and the bucket.
i lay then lens in the trim ring, drop in the gasket, then does not seem like the Headlamp Clamp Ring fits in there, like either the gasket is too thick and not allowing it to go or the trim is not tall enough, but looks the same as factory.
trim ring face down
lens in face down (prism to the inside, raised ring/lip to outside, text legible from front)
close up of glass in trim ring, looking through slot
close up of glass & gasket in trim ring, looking through slot
does the retaining ring go lip down like this
or does retaining ring go lip up like this
hink i may have figured it out.... or at least i hope.
temporarily together till the bulbs come in
is this the correct gap and configuration when fully assembled ??
seems the gap is NOT correct and the trim ring should go up against the lip on the buckets...
tinkered with the gasket and flipped the retaining ring... if i flip the retaining ring that seems to solve the problem. the gasket seems a little thick for the New Trim Rings and NOS Glass combo.
going to pick up some gasket material today 1/16", 3/32", and 1/8" and play with making custom gaskets this weekend for the headlamps. current material is 1/8" thick
goal for the weekend... figure this thing out and get them ready for the bulbs when they come in, still hoping that the supplier gets them in and ships them today so that i have them next week !! hoping
Well waiting for a few parts to arrive to move forward, i have sheet cork from Fel-Pro in 1/16, 3/32, and 1/8 now. so can make most all my gaskets.
have a pair of NOS Head Lamp Trim rings on their way to me. supposed to be in excellent condition. also was told it had a set of original gaskets in the package :) once they arrive i will check them over, clean them up and test fit them and hopefully install and use them on the 1929. they are NOT reproduction, supposed to be NOS exactly like the ones that came originally on the car on 1929.
also got in my test set of LED head lamps and plan to run a test, hoping that i will be able to compare to the stock 21/21 CP bulbs as well as the LED bulbs that Steve D (m00684) is testing in his car, once he gets the signal issue fixed.
be really interested in how they project and how on a wall and in a distance.
actually bought 2 pair to test, but crazy me must have clicked on the wrong button and bought a wrong pair, as i ended up with a BA15S set vs the BA15D set. they look exactly alike except for the dual set does half power and full power for lows and highs vs the Single set is all full power all the time.
ok, so did some bench testing on the 1929 headlamps...
built one complete (bucket, reflector, gasket, lens, retaining ring, trim ring, etc...) and then tested with my optima 6v and jumper wires. put the bucket on the bench and faced towards the garage door. from bench to back wall is about 25 foot. yes that is my 1929 to the left in the pictures :)
i did a few tests.. will group them accordingly below:
Here are the Parking lights:
0-Dark NO Lights on, other than my flashlight for finding pins in the connector and not shorting out the bulbs and battery
1-Standard #63 bulb...single filament Incan, 38 lumen, 3 Candle Power
2-LED #798 6k White....6 fwd SMD LED, 7 side LED, 90 lumen, 6 Candle Power
3-LED #845 6k White....9 PIN LED, 7 side LED, 360 lumen, 23 Candle Power
the standard bulb lights up nicely, then the #798 does about the same lighting, but in a whiter light, then the 845 really lights up the room
now the headlights:
0-Dark NO Lights on, other than my flashlight for finding pins in the connector and not shorting out the bulbs and battery
1b low/c high-Standard #1188 bulb...dual filament Incan, 402 low/628 high lumen, 24 low/34 high Candle Power
2b low/c high-LED #475 6k White....8 low/16 high6 side SMD LED, 1200 low/ 1800 high lumen, 94 low/141 high Candle Power
pretty much same situation, the incan does a good job lighting up, but the LED is whiter and brighter.
well got a package in the mail today and it was my NOS trim rings for the headlamps !!
they are good looking trim rings, not perfect but great for my restoration. they look just like the original ones i had but in way better shape. and as a bonus they had the NOS Paper Gaskets in there as well.
here is a shot of the gasket and then the gasket laying over the one available from The Filling Station
only difference really is thickness. the one in my headlamps originally was .125" thick this one a little thinner.
complete headlamp built, minus lights...
will tear it down, clean everything up, paint touch up and then pick lights and build to install.
well built the headlamps with the stock style bulbs. and started the install on the car, and got the stanchions and cross bar on, then the headlamps.
need to fine tune and tighten everything up. then once the car is running i can set and adjust the headlamps per the manual. then i can do testing on the various LEDs with the actual car and driving ":)
few shots of the headlamp assemblies completed and ready for install
installed on the car, still needs to be tightened up
yeah hadlamps were the last thing on the list.
going to touch up some paint and such this weekend. mainly black that i scuffed or scratched in the re assembly.
then a once over and make sure everything is correct and secure, then i need to get some gasoline and then i will try to test fire and see if it will fire up or kick my arse.
been almost 4 years since it last ran, and done a ton of work to it since then.
hood will go on last once i get it running and tuned properly. just a pain to go back and forth to adjust and tweak things with the hood in the way.
my punch list is down to UNDER 25 items left to go, and most of those are checks and steps for test firing
I have set a date of Next weekend as the date i plan on filling fluids, and attempting to fire it up !!
this week will be doing all my final checks and double checks.
Did a double check this weekend, checked all hardware connections to ensure everything was tight & secure, checked all electrical connections and wired to ensure they were solid and secured.
Did some touch up on the black paint, few dings, scratches, etc...
Working on my check list before i try to fire up the car... let me know if i missed anything or of anything is wrong. just really do NOT want to mess anything up, lot of time and effort in this car, and ready to get it running and driving ;)
FILL AND TOP OFF COOLANT
.....11.5 QT 50/50 GREEN ANTIFREEZE W/ DISTILLED WATER
FILL AND TOP OFF OIL
.....5 QT 10W-30
FILL AND TOP OFF TRANSMISSION
.....2.5 PT 600WT
OIL IN U-JOINT
OIL IN REAR END
.....FILL TO FILL PORT HOLE
FUEL IN FUEL TANK
.....FEW GALLONS OF REGULAR NON-ETHANOL
.....STOCK: FLOAT: .75", SET TIMING TO 12 DEG, SPARK PLUG GAP: .024", POINT GAP: .018"
.....VCCA: FLOAT: .75", SET TIMING TO 18 DEG, SPARK PLUG GAP: .040"-.045", POINT GAP: .018"
CHECK CARBURETOR SETTINGS
.....OPEN THE IDLE ADJUSTING SCREW FROM 3/4 TO 1 1/4 TURNS
.....WITH THE HAND THROTTLE ON THE INSTRUMENT BOARD CLOSED, SET THE THROTTLE LEVER ADJUSTING SCREW SO THAT THE MOTOR WILL RUN APPROXIMATELY 300 REVOLUTIONS PER MINUTE
.....IF THE MOTOR RUNS TOO FAST, BACK THE ADJUSTING SCREW OUT. IF TOO SLOW, TURN IN UNTIL THE PROPER SPEED IS OBTAINED.
.....ALL WIRES ATTACHED AND THE ELECTROLOCK OFF
.....ATTACH A JUMPER WIRE TO ONE TERMINAL ON THE CUTOUT
.....TOUCH THE OTHER END OF THE JUMPER WIRE TO THE OPPOSITE TERMINAL ON THE CUTOUT (YOU SHOULD GET A SPARK)
....."GEN" TERMINAL ON THE CUTOUT TO THE "BATT" TERMINAL ON THE CUTOUT
.....DO THIS A COUPLE OF TIMES TO MAKE SURE THAT THE GENERATOR IS POLARIZED
TURN OVER ENGINE TO PRIME FUEL PUMP (FILL GLASS BOWL)
.....FEW SECONDS ON THEN WAIT (DO NOT HOLD DOWN PEDAL FOR TOO LONG)
FIRE UP ENGINE
ROUGH TUNE - SET CARBURETOR: IDLE & ACCEL & ADJUST TIMING FOR SMOOTH RUNNING
LET ENGINE WARM UP AND GET TO TEMP
.....CURE EXHAUST MANIFOLD, PIPE, & MUFFLER PAINT
.....(NORMAL OPERATING TEMP OR 350 DEG FOR 10 MIN) !! WITH VENTILATION !!
WATCH/ CHECK FOR
..... ENGINE OVERHEAT
.....FLUID (WATER, GAS, OIL) LEAKS
TEST GENERATOR AS STOCK INPUT & OUTPUT VOLTAGE & AMPS
.....8.2 VOLTS AT 1,700 RPM GENERATOR SPEED COLD, AND 7.7 VOLTS AT 1,800 GENERATOR SPEED HOT
.....ADJUST USING THIRD BRUSH TO MEET ABOVE SETTINGS
.....OPTIONAL GEN TEST:
.....ADJUST THE THIRD BRUSH SO THAT IT IS ABOUT 4 COMM. BARS APART FROM THE MAIN BRUSHAT THAT SETTING YOU SHOULD SHOW A MAX. OF AROUND 10 AMPS, FAST IDLE, LIGHTS OFF
what method of mounting is general accepted/ correct for the license plates on a 1929 Chevrolet.
i just got a set of nicely restored 1929 Virginia plates and do NOT want to damage them by any means !!
was thinking some black oxide hardware, or black painted hardware, slotted head screws, along with a washer and nut on each one. but was thinking of placing a small thin rubber washer behind the head of the screw as well as the plate to mounting bar. this way the paint would be better protected. or maybe cork washers :)
picked up a Gano inline coolant filter, figured i would give it a try and see if it works. also figured if there is any debris in the engine, head, etc that the filter will catch it before it hits the radiator. also will be cool to see the coolant flowing through the clear tube. another perk is you will be able to see if there are air bubbles in it as well.
picked this up from Gano Filters which is basically Restoration Supply Company.
also got some distilled water and green antifreeze.
basically enough to do 2 rounds if needed. or 1 time and some spare :)
did 1 gallon green and almost 2 gallons water.
well spent most of the day doing final checks and then trying to test fire the 1929...
went down my list and validated everything, got everything cheeked off, and put fuel in the car. spun it over a few times, only for a few seconds at a time, then a minute rest to pump fuel to bowl. after several cycles still no fuel. so we started to diagnose the problem. tried to put fuel in pump and then go from there, nothing. so we double checked everything was sealed at the connections, still no go. pulled fuel line from pump and was able to siphon gas from tank easily. so that is a check. did a vacuum test on pump and got no reading ?!? needle did not even really move. so tried the pressure (outlet) and basically the same thing. we pull the pump double checked and on the bench we were getting 5-6 inHg on the vacuum and about 2-2.5 psi on the outlet for pressure. we could tell the cam lobe and the fuel pump arm are worn some. we did a test and put the pump back on the car with NO gasket bt the pump and the block. and did a test we got about 2-2.5 inHg and on outlet about 1.0 psi, but not enough to actually siphon fuel from the tank to the pump.
figured we were going to need to weld and build up the fuel pump arm, so we called it a day and went to get some dinner. i spent last night searching and reading post on here about this issue, and seems the general answer is to TIG weld and build up the fuel pump arm and try that, if that does not work then have to build up and grind the lobe on the cam for the fuel pump which sounds like it is EXPENSIVE !!. Now the fun begins trying to 1 find a local shop that can do a quality TIG weld and 2 one that is actually willing to do a small job of this nature. seems NO ONE around here wants to do anything unless it is a large government contract and they an make money. not many people that are willing to help out a fellow car guy on the side. its a shame...
question, i assume the arm that needs to be TIG welded is simple steel ?? nothing fancy or exotic. and based on the numbers should be around .400 bear rivet.
From what i read the proper numbers for the pump should be:
output pressure 1.50 - 2.00 PSI
inlet vacuum 8-10 Hg
though it was a failure we learned a lot, and more projects coming up...
yes this is the correct pump, complete
and i have a spare
read some articles on VCCA and they discussed the NEW arm is like .400 thick across at the rivet, mine is .315 spare is .325
going to see about getting it built up
as for the pictures, yeah i know thanks google, when i started this venture loaded all my picts up to picaso, and linked them in. then google took over and became google photos, and all links were broke :( need to go back and embed them in the postings.
borrowed a dial indicator to check travel of the cam lobe.
set it up with the point aiming at the center line of the cm shaft. sure it is NOT perfect, but pretty good results. tried several different ways and came out about the same results each time. +/- .015
found out from low to high getting about .269
took a straight edge and laid it against the cam to see how much deviation/wear was in the lobe. you can clearly see the 3 sections that match up thte fuel pump arm :) bit not really that much wear from the standard lobe to the wear section.
had some time tonight to work on the welded up fuel pump arm.
wire brushed it and cleaned it up and then set up my bench grinder and away we went.
too my time to try and keep the stock looking profile. after grinding ended up with a thickness of approx .390
welded up arm (yes TIG welded 2 layers)
cleaned up and ground profile
close up of tip
rebuilt the fuel pump, oh yeah while waiting for the welding i did glass bead the fuel pump and my spare one.
so it does look nicer now :) rebuilt it following TFS instructions, and tips from here ;)
went together nicely. drop of oil on each wafer, also a drop of oil around the gasket to help it seal along with glass bowl, a little dab of grease on each pin on the arm inside.
on the bench i was able to get approx 7-8 Hg on inlet and it holds it on output get around 1.5-2.0 PSI
that is full stroke by hand
i installed it on the car with a new gasket and made sure the lobe was low side to pump, high side away. in doing so there was about a 1/4" gap between block and pump mount once the arm hit the cam, then pressed in and tighten down evenly. this is what i was shooting for that way the 1/4" of fere play is null once installed.
ran a test, and was able to get about 6-7Hg on suction side with about 10 seconds of turning over motor, no plugs installed, and about 1.5-2.0 PSI on the outlet.
shot a short video of just a few seconds of turning over, but it does build of vacuum quickly.
that is all i had time for, have to clean up yard, and all loose items, bring trash cans into garage, etc... preparing for Dorian heading this way !! also had to prep my sump pump to keep water out of my garage, they are calling for 5-6 inches of rain !! so everything off the floor !!
got my headlights installed and doing a test.
Parking lamps, look the same brightness and intensity
Headlamps either LOW or HIGH the drivers side is DIMMER than the passenger side
i removed the left assembly cleaned out the area around the socket, cleaned the socket, put that back together, then on the bucket wire brushed the paint off the threads removed paint off the top end of the nut where it touched the cup washer, stripped paint off the flat face that touches the nut, and the headlamp bar. stripped off paint on the headlamp bar that cup mounts to. so all those areas are metal on metal.
seems that the headlamp bar has a solid ground since the other headlamp is bright and full.
tried a test and ran a jumper ground from engine and touched it against the armor cable on drivers side and bulbs brightens up, then touched it against the passenger side and no change, so tells me passenger is grounded completely. also touched it against the socket housing on the bulbs and same results. there seems to be NO difference in the brightness of the parking lamp on either side when doing this.
did a second test of running a ground from battery directly and the same results.
well went out and messed with the headlamps again tonight
decided to do a test to see if it is hte bucket or something else, so i swapped the reflectors assembly w/ pigtail from drivers to passenger, and test. and the drivers is still dim. so know it is bucket specific with the ground.
used my ohm meter and tested chasis ground to the headlamp bar and read o ohms, so know i have a pretty good ground.
pulled the bucket assembly off, and cleaned off all paint and primer on all connecting points. reassembled it using the carbon conductive grease to help prevent corrosion. then put in the reflector assemblies, for a test
this test was successful, both lights are bright and clear, did a ground jump wire test just to be sure and no difference in the brightness on either, so i am content for now that the ground is fixed.... i hope
decided to see if the fuel pump would prime.
hooked up the tank line to the pump inlet, then the carburetor line to the outlet.
pumped for 10 seconds... nothing
another 10 seconds and fuel starts filling bowl
another 10 seconds bowl is full
so have to say pump is officially pumping ;) tomorrow plan to see if we can prime the carb (get fuel to it) then see if it will start & run, or at least try to.
spent Friday night chasing ground on headlamps and testing/priming the fuel pump from Test Fire ONE failure.
got up this morning, went out to garage, prepped everything, and was ready to test fire. but it was a NO GO, as the key in the electrolock would not turn. key went in easily, and lock would travel slightly in and out about 1/8" or so BUT the key would NOT turn :( i jumped on here, and read up and went through my notes. gave the lock a spritz of oil in the key slot and let it sit for a few to soak in and through. then put a dab of oil on the key and worked it in and out of the slot. still no luck. so decided to tinker with other things and let it sit longer. still no luck.
called up Chipper to have a chat with him about electrolocks. (Thanks Chipper) end result was pulling out the electrolock assembly and shipping it out to him to take a gander. so hopefully he can see what is going on, possibly fix it for me. just another trial day for me on the 1929. seems like it does NOT want to run, well start, was running and driving when i got it, but things some up.
so close, but every time something else comes up and stops me from running...
well not much else i can do for now, just have to sit and wait for Chipper to get the electrolock and diagnose. was given a cheat, to get the car running so i could tune and prep until i get the electrolock back.
my understanding is the electrolock in the 1929 breaks the circuit from the coil to the distributor. so IF i installed a small machine screw into the distributor following the same sequence as i would for the electrolock for isolation then connect a lead from this bolt to a simple on/off switch. then connect a lead from the other side of the switch to the wire that connects to the electrolock under the dash. it seems that this switch would serve as the on /off that the electrolock does now. then i could test fire the car IF everything else is in order and functioning properly. just need to make suire the switch can handle the current.
well got up this morning and decided to bypass the electrolock so made up a simple wire. made it long enough to go from distributor to dash and put a lug on one end, and a spade on the other, as i found a few dc switches in the garage electronics pile. and made another short cable to jump from electrolock wire to the switch. used a small 10-32 screw to hold the electrolcok lug to the new small wire lug, then taped it off to keep it from shorting or hitting anything.
used my spark tester to validate if i had spark or not, switch on spark, switch off no spark.
10-32 screw used to simulate the electrolock connection at the distributor
electrolock wire connected to the switch wire
back of switch
dash side of switch with quick custom switch mount for easy access
well nothing left to do but fire it up, or at least try... so Test Fire 3.0
did a few cycles to get fuel to the fuel bowl, and realized had a few small fuel leaks, so tightened up a few connections. and then flipped the switch and the car turned over and attempted to start, then the next tap of the starter and bammm we had ignition.
car fired up and ran ok, turned it off, and then attempted to start it and it fired right back up.
did a little tweaking and tuning, got it set to 18 BTDC and then adjusted idle then the mixture screw. Got it down to around 600 rpm and it stayed happy. this is on the NOS Carter RJH-08 150S, if i go under this then it sputters no matter what i do with the mixture screw. note that the car also has newer valves and setup done by PO.
Adjusted Idle Screw & Mixture Screw. only able to get it down to around 600-650 rpm, anything lower it starts to sputter no matter what i adjust.
revved it up a few times
after adjusting and getting it some what happy, decided to back it out of the garage for the first time in over 4 years !!
Took it for a quick trip around the block, a little rusty driving it but enjoyed every second of it !!
well did a little tweaking last night, working on the tuning.
trying to find the sweet spot where everythign is content and happy
also adjusted the valves again
Got a call from Chipper, and he has fixed my Electrolock and it is on its way back home. seems the cylinder (pot metal) had seized up a tad, he got it free and cleaned it up. should be here thursday or friday, so maybe this weekend will get it installed and tested.
took the car out for another spin today, here is the car idling now. sounds a lot quieter and smoother.
the drive today was about 3-5 miles around the neighborhood, got a lot of looks and waves, and thumbs up
after running around for 15 minutes or so, when i pulled back into driveway the temp gauge was right side of alcohol boils. at the line
then when i shut it off, it puked out the overflow. shot a video of it bubbling up the gano, while driving no bubbles at all, only when i cut it off.
on Saturday our local chapter of the AACA met up at Doumar's (click on link to learn more, all the locals KNOW Doumar's) i decided i would venture out and drive the 1929 over for a sandwich and fries. several other members ventured out as well driving their antiques. would have to say was a little rough ride, but as expected for the 1929. attached some pictures of the other cars there, pictures were taken by fellow club member and camera man Bob S. The trip was only about 7 miles, mainly back roads, and included a trip through the local tunnel to cross the river. cruised mainly around 30-35.
well too kit out for a small trip to the local drive in with local AACA club, about 6-7 miles from the house most all back roads, kept it around 25-35. car ran nice, smooth around around those speeds. temp stayed in the alc boils range, never above, even sitting at stop lights. when i got there and parked, (no hood still) i noticed a small amount steam/ smoke coming out around push rod cover and more so out of the oil fill tube. not a lot but a small trail easily seen. group ate, chatted, had ice cream then i headed back home. car was nice and cool when i left to go back. same trip home, parked in driveway and same trail of steam/smoke when i looked at engine. also noticed that the coolant level was down, i could see it in the Gano filter. when i left i had it about 1/2 above the top of the core in the radiator, once back home and cooled off about 4 inches lower. never puked or dumped when i parked at diner, or back home. so assume it is blowing it or burning it.
1-drain oil and see if coolant is in oil pan
2-do a compression check on each cylinder no plugs 1-6 see if any drastic difference
just a note block was redone before i acquired it, i have done the rocker arm assemblies set shims on mains & Rods on bottom end, as well as all new tappets and push rods from C&P
well did a second road test on saturday. topped off coolant with some distilled water then drove the car around the back of the neighborhood, was a 25-30 mph drive about 3 miles or so a dozen or so stop and gos. car did well and only got up to the line after normal.
took a few turn overs to get started, but fired up and ran nicely.
back home in driveway, car did not loose any coolant, did NOT see any air in the gano filter while driving.
decided to do a little longer run and drive on sunday.
car did not want to start, then i retarded the spark (pulling cable on dash) car fired right up, and if i pushed it back in the car would stumble and stall. going to have to check the timing and see if it moved or what.
drove the car about a mile around neighborhood then ventured out on the one of the side roads, speed limit 35mph. drove this down for about 3-5 miles at a steady 35 mph, car ran fine and temp stayed right above the mid mark of alcohol boils. turned around in a parking lot and started to head back. about a mile back noticed steam coming from radiator, and coolant around the top nozzle/hose and temp was had just past the mark after alcohol boils. we pulled on a side street and coolant started to gurgle and car puked some. sat there for a while let it cool down, actually had a few people in neighbor hood come out and ask about car and if we were ok and needed anything. very nice of them.
after car cooled fired right back up and drove back home staying around 25 mph. parked it and let it cool off.
could not see where the coolant was coming from up top, maybe loose clamp, or something. parked it in the garage and will have to sit for a few days as i am busy with the local meet here this week and work.
Things to check:
1-Check again for Coolant in oil
...(was no evidence before this road trip, will have to recheck now to see if any is in the oil
2-Pull Plugs and check coloration and condition, check gap as well
3-Pull distributor cap and check points, gap, etc...
3-Check timing and see where it is with spark cable all the way in.
Drain Oil, was oil but dirty....
pulled plugs, and checked them over, regapped .040"
also cleaned points, and reset to .018"
checked timing, and set per VCCA to 18 deg BTDC
the 12 deg mark is just starting to disappear out the top of the window.
however the timing light says it is only about 15 degrees ?!?
going to double check, tried to shoot a video BUT the strobe does not show up in video
did a compression check, cyl 1 through 6, all plugs removed, spun engine over with starter, till Pressure maxed out on each cylinder, about 3-5 revolutions.
all were around 60-65 PSI
did NOT do a leak down, guess i could see how long it could hold the pressure, or set a duration and check at 1 min, 3 min, 5 min, etc...
after all this, put it all back together, double checked it once over and then fired it up.
shot a video of car idling and air in the Gano while idling and revving
todays venture was machine shop calls... trying to get all my ducks in a row so when i pull the head i can go get it magnafluxed. figured IF i am pulling it, I am going to get it checked. found a few local shops that do that thing, and can machine it if needed, 1 of them can do the cast iron welding, the other 2 have a shop outside that does that for them. magnaflux cost run from $25 to $65 and can be done in a day or two. some also offered to do a pressure/vacuum test to test for porosity and pin holes.that is additional cost, approx $50.
now jsut have to remove everything so i can remove the head... love back pedaling !! oh the joys.
and just to think the PO told me the engine was completely rebuild... NOt today sir, not today. considering that they had a complete valve job done, would figured to get a magnaflux to be safe. who knows maybe it is something else. but all signs are pointing towards a cracked head.
well took a few hours and took head off engine... removed piece by piece with engine in car to remove the head.
then looking closely, and cleaning up the piston caps, they are stamped "STD", which tells me standard size, and the cylinder walls look like they were NOT honed or anything...
well taking a few days away as i am planning on going up to Hershey for a few days. walk around the fields, talk to some friends, maybe make a new one or two.
initiate talks with local shop here to clean and then magnaflux head as it is off the car. that is where i am going to start. then i will be pulling the engine, and having cleaned, magnafluxed then bored, honed, decked, crankshaft checked and balanced. put in new oversize pistons and rings. validate the valve job or redoing the valves altogether. developed a plan of action and goal is to get it all done by spring. that is if i can afford it. hoping the babbit is good, has only about 30 miles on it or about 2 hours of run time total.
they are going to clean out all water and oil passage ways. to ensure good flow is permitted with little resistance.
Looks like EGGE is bout the only place to get oversize pistons, pins, and rings for this car.
also talked with J&M Machine Company as well as Columbia Classic Cars in regards to rebuilding the engine as well.
Open to other options as well, shops that is...
ok, tried to post these pictures last week, but the WiFi at the campground was horrible. (hey trying to keep up while hanging out after dark)
You can clearly see the difference in the cylinder walls, there is a clearly defined lip/ledge near the top where the rings do not run. the pistons are sloppy in the bores. do NOT have a mic to measure the inside, but will get the shop to do that for me later, once i pull the block.
you can also clearly see the scoring and pitting in the walls as well.
dropped off the head at the shop during my lunch, and just got a call back, head checks out fine, no cracks and intake and exhaust hold a vacuum. so the seats are sealing. however the head is 'warped like a banana'
so he is going to mill the head flat, also check the manifold surface and machine that if NOT flat.
also asked him to pull the valves and check the guides and the seats, inspect and check everything and let me know the outcome of the valves and manifold surface...
Yeah a warped head may be a good thing vs a cracked head....
head should be done by the end of the week, and for under $500 i hope
want him to go over valves even though they hold vacuum to make sure the guides are good , while it is off.
then i can pull the block and get that to him and get started on that.
trying to do one thing at a time, and plan one step ahead
thansk, Kantor gets theirs from Egge, heard they have cleaned up their quality in the last few years and are doing good stuff. i may have found a set of NOS/NORS cast iron pistons .020 or .030, waiting for confirmation.
I am on top of the shop, they said they could have it all done (minus babbit if needed) in a month or two. if i need babbit i will probably send the rods and bearings to Pauls then have shop here line bore it all and get it going.
In the process of removing the engine, man so many things to remove, disconnect, etc... trying NOT to damage anything in the process. was NOT planning on taking any of this stuff out again !!
well night two of disassembly. man i forgot how many parts i had to put on after the engine went in. going to take a few days to remove everything and clear the path for the drivetrain to come out.
well got everything else removed, and engine is ready to be pulled ( i hope and think)
should be able to sling it and lift a tad, then pull straight out the front.
pulled the radiator core out the shell, and going to drop it off with the radiator shop tomorrow. they are going to give it a once over. flush it out good, check flow and such, then clean it up. figure while it is out again, will have it double checked and validated. the local shop here is one of 2 in the area that build and do custom radiators. been around since the 1940's they build custom radiators, heat exchangers, they are the ones that have the caustic tank that cleaned most of my sheet metal parts. old school shop, very nice people and have been good to me and fellow old car people around the region.
plan to get it pulled this weekend and then talk with machine shop and see what all they want, so i can take it as it is or strip it down to minimum. going to also see if they can balance the flywheel and such, check surfaces and see if they need to be machined.
plan to call them tomorrow and check on my head, and see if they are ready for engine on monday.
Radiator is at the Radiator Shop...
see what they say about it next week hopefully
well spent a few hours in the garage today, stripping down motor and car to remove engine. attended our local AACA region Chili Cook off and hung out for a few hours there. then back home dinner and pulled the engine & Transmission. it is out of car and generally stripped down !!
did not take any pictures as i was working too hard and making sure i was doing things safely and correctly.
going to load it up and drop it at machine shop on monday. go over things to do and cost to do them. as well as timeline and time frame. once they get to the bore the cylinders i will KNOW piston size. hoping on .020 no more than .030 !!
maybe take some pictures tomorrow when i get out there once again.
since i have the engine out for rebuild, the transmission had to come with it
I have gone over it and all the gears look great, no chips or damaged teeth.
is there anything i should double check replace etcc while i have it out
figure about 6+ weeks while the machine shop has the engine.
when i took it apart there was a minute amount of 600w in the front. i know they dribble a little since there are no seals. assume this small amount is acceptable or no ?? i know any dribble out the back goes into the union area. but when i drained the trans i got almost all of the 600w back !! so not much left the main housing !!
here are a few of the engine with sling ready to be pulled
few picts of the parts and pieces all over the garage, and just o think i JUST got it all cleaned up and organized with the car together !!
Engine Pulled and ready to go to machine Shop on Monday Morning...
will also check up and see if i can look at the head while i am there !!
was prepping to take the engine to the machine shop when they called me about my head !! it was ready for pick up.
he said it was warped .008 and had to machine off .012 to get it flat and cleaned up.
when checking the valves (which held vacuum and passed test) he found that ALL of the valve guides were worn out and trash, and that one of them had been bored out and a larger diameter valve stem was installed so he did new valves guides, and made a new valve to math the existing ones. so now all 12 match. he did a valve job and cleaned them all up, seats were new and cleaned them up as well. also machined the manifold surface.
dropped off the engine when i picked up the head.
went over plan of action, and told him if he needs any parts, call me, any questions, call me, unsure, call me so he knows to call me
going to strip it down and clean it up first. then determine required bore to clean it up
figure 6+ weeks at least, hoping to have it done and back to me by end of the year !! be my christmas present
got a call from the radiator shop today... all done and ready for pick up
they flushed it and cleaned it out, did a small repair on the filler neck, flow tested it and said it was good, did a pressure test to 20 psi and then painted it black for me
cleaned up the shell and put the core back in and secured it, ready to go back on the car...
got all my shims in for the mains...
got a call from the machine shop today. block looks good, they had to bore .030 over to clean up walls and remove taper. crank is straight, gone to polish up journals, said pulley was not secured on the shaft, then we laughed as it is a press fit no hardware to hold it on. babbitt is in good shape.
have to order my .030 cast iron pistons now and get them to him to move forward, they will hone the bores to final dims once they have pistons and rings in hand.
update, went by the machine shop today to look at the block and crank...
block has been rough bored .030 over, have pistons on the way along with pins and rings.
spent a good hour going over what has been done, where we are, and what is next on the list...
he had concerns on the crank, looks like all the front main bearing area has some wear in it, about .70 or so, you can visible see the low spot of the wear. we talked about grinding it flat and getting it smooth, and then polishing up all the journals. looks like the center and the rear we re previously ground down .010.
crank is free of cracks, and is straight !!
then looking at the mains...
visual inspection say they look to be in good condition ?!?
think there was about .004-.005 shim in the mains bearings.
should i just get them all redone and start over or ?? considering i have to get the front journal of the crank ground
sounds like a plan, then all the mains will be .010 undersized from stock. not sure what shims were in there. i talked with Russ up at Paul's and it is $365 to do all the mains. i found a local shop that will line bore for me estimated around $650-750, Russ said $625 for him to do a line bore, plus $400-500 for round trip shipping.
think to be safe i am at lest going to get all the mains redone to a semi. then the local shop will line bore and finish it off on the mains with .006 - .008 shim set for each per the info i read for the 194 Chevrolet. think the sets i goat are .031 sets so could do any variation up to .010 per main bearing.
really debating if i should go ahead and get the connecting rods done or go with what i have ?!? guess could mic out the journal for the rods, and then measure out the assembled conn rod sets with no shims and see what allowance i have. Russ quoted $110 per conn rod re babbitt. do they do these to a finished size per the crank journals or ?? set up with a.006-.008 shim set in each conn rod when doing so.
picking up the main inserts and the connecting rods and caps to ship to Russ @ Pauls'
hoping to pick them up tomorrow on my lunch break, and then ship them out by this weekend at the latest. approx 4 weeks to get them back ready to install.
pick up the connection rods/pistons and the main inserts today as well as the crank
the connecting rods and shims along with the main inserts will be going to Russ out at Paul's Rod & Bearing
the crank shaft is going over to another shop that will do the work on it. clean it up, magnaflux it, then grind and polish to provide numbers for the babbitt !! same shop that will be doing the line boring of the block as well.
few shots of the bearing inserts and connection/pistons before disassembly
just an update for anyone following... Parts (Mains and Connecting Rods) have been received and verified by Russ at Paul's Rod and Bearing. looking at about 4 weeks turnaround time. machine shop has NOT started on crank yet, have a few in front of it, hoping by end of month to have the done so we can send numbers to Russ.
currently idling and circling the airport
waiting on the machine shop to magnaflux and grind/polish the crank so that we can get numbers to Russ @Pauls to do the babbitt.
also got update that my distributor has been rebuilt and should be on its way here in the next day or two. had 2 spare distributors and had VCCA Guru rebuild me a spare from the two, plan to use the spare as the main distributor and the current one will be my spare/emergency one. will have to post pictures of it when it arrives !!
got my Distributor back on Thursday !! man does it look sharp. this was done by VCCA guru Skip Geear, top notch quality work. tested on the Distributor machine and good to go !!
what we started with, 2 spare distributors
end result,. one show quality sharp distributor
Well Christmas has come and gone as well as the New Year. WE are now in 2020 and time to get back on the ball. Goal for now is to have the car back running by end of March. so is the plan !!
Got a call from Russ at Paul's Rod & Bearing he has cleaned up the parts and poured the babbitt. said the mains are already rough machined to .060 under and ready to ship. Connecting Rods are poured and rough cut, waiting on final numbers to machine to from the Machine shop.
Going to call the machine shop to see where the crank is in line, and tentative machine date. Once they get that done we will have final numbers to send to Russ @ Paul's.
got a call from the Machine Shop 2 about my crank, it is done and been polished, provided me the numbers for the connecting rod journals. so Called Russ over at Paul's Rod & Bearings to give him the numbers. they will assembly the connecting rod ends with a set shim pack, then machine them to size with an oil film clearance. said that should only take a few days, so should be on the way back to me by end of next week.
I still need to go pick up my parts from Machine Shop 1, since Machine Shop 2 will be finishing the work and reassembling my short block. This is a good start to the new year !! should start moving along !!
went by machine shop 1 today and got all my pieces, well HOPE i got them all
now waiting on the babbitt to arrive so that i can take everything to machine shop 2 to start finally honing and machining, then assembly
bought the transmission rebuild kit from C&P Automotive, as well as new bearings and their main drive bearing retainer w/ seal.
1923-1931 Transmission Rebuild Kit
1925-1931 Transmission Main Drive Bearing Retainer
just wondering how big of a task this is, and if i need any special tools to do the job ?? i have a press if needed for gears or bearings.
figured i should go through the transmission while the engine is getting done. make sure the main components are good to go for a long time...
got a call from Russ, and my Babbitt is complete and on its way back to me !!
should be here monday or tuesday of next week !!
got a package on my porch today.. from Pauls Rod and Bearings
under the mains were the connecting rods, packed and wrapped nicely....
unwrapped each one to check and they all look great, and about the same
few pictures of the inspection
well decided to get started on the transmission...
here is the Transmission Rebuild Kit & New Bearing Retainer I got from The Filling Station (Made by C&P Automotive) also got the new bearings while i was at it. very nice kit, has 2 new shafts, pins, cap & required bushings.
parts n pieces for the rebuild
Following the instruction in the 1929 Chevrolet Repair Manual, took my time and tore down the transmission.
Here is the initial ROUGH Tear down to bare housing...
housing with internal components
housing looking inside
passenger side (fill port)
now here are the internals broken down...
shafts, gears, keys, and pins oh my
now to clean everything down and then prep for rebuild
going to soak and scrub the gears down then inspect them for defect, chips, cracks, etc...
see what it all looks like after some cleaning
well got all the gears cleaned up as well as the housing..
dropped off the block, manifold, flywheel, cam ,pistons, rings, etc to the machine shop to start work. told me it would be about a week before he could start on the block work, also we are going to look at grinding and polishing the cam. going to order a new cam gear and thrust plate.
question for anyone that has rebuilt their Chevrolet transmission using the kit & parts i noted above.
did you remove one side (facing inwards) of the bearing shield or leave it in ?? any issues, concerns, and/or recommendations ??
well got around to re assembling my transmission. been trying to get everything in order for our annual swap meet so been busy !!
laid out everything on my bench then started to reassemble. used my Harbor Freight 20 Ton Press to press on the bushings. i used a lights coat of oil to ease to process. this was really easy to do, as long as you ensure everything is straight and in line.
everything lines up and ready to press
slow and steady wins the race
did this for all the bushings on the gears/shaft. took my time and made sure it war correct.
once all the bushings were installed i did test fit each shaft to ensure that they went in smoothly and freely and spun with easily with no slop or play.