300C 5.7 HEMI Touring 2006 by tuusinii

By diyauto
( 1 )

300C 5.7 HEMI Touring 2006 

Compliments of tuusinii @ http://www.300cforums.com



So I bought this car two weeks ago. This is how it looked day after I bought it:

The car is 2006 5.7 HEMI Touring with 138 tkm and two preowners. Overall looked quite nice - just needed good cleaning. Specially I like the color (Midnight Blue) because there isn't many of the same color. At least here in Finland most are either silver or black.

So things I've allready done:

1. Fitted LED DRL:s

I bought the LED:s from Ebay and was looking a little smaller ones that fit good to the lower inserts in the front bumber. I used the lower ones because on the right side the car allready had a socket for the electric engine heater. The lower one is also still high enough to fulfill the 25 cm minimum clearance to ground. Connection was quite easy. Just driller the holes to the plastic. Right side I was able to connect without removing anything but on the left side I had to open the inner fairing to have access to the connectors. Put the R87 DRL module right side, attached to the main frame by zip tie. Routed the cable to left side behind the radiator. Because the ligths had ready connector this was the easiest solution. Ground wire was connected to the main ground wire behind fuse box. For power I used connector that fits straight to the fusebox and adds an auxliary fuse. This way didn't need to splice in to the existing wiring. Used fuse for ignition so it's live only when engine running.

Auto shutdown for the DRLs was connected to right side running light.

2. Fitted trailer hitch.

The hitch was also from Ebay with universal electric kit. On the 300C all the wires are below rear fuse box so connecting universal electric kit is really easy. The relay module fitted easily below the fuse box and is attached with the supplied velcro tape. Fitment was quite easy. Only problem was the one bolt on the right side that doesn't have anything fitted to it normally (on the left side there is the emergency pulling hook attached that was removed). So the thread was rusted but fixed that with tapping it again with M12 tap.

The right wires for the relay kit I got from fellow forum member from this thread: How to fit a universal tow bar electrics kit

3. Fitted relay box to turn off the ESP 100%

After reading from forums about auxliary buttons to disable the ESP by cutting the power to DSS-module to really turn off the ESP. Also looked the NOESP solution that used the original ESP button. But as the official NOESP solution costs 50$ plus shiping I just purchased universal ON-Delay electric relay from Ebay for about 10€. So I hooked it so that the NC contact of the relay is connected in series to the DSS-mudele power. +12V is connected also to the DSS-module power and the GND is connected dark green/white stripe behind the ESP button. I set the delay to app. 4s. So no it works so that when I hold the standard ESP button for 4s I get rid of the ESP 100% and this way no need to add extra button.

To do:
3. Add button to open the trunk from the cabin (button allready ordered)
4. Fix little rust on the inside of the fenders before it gets bad.
5. Upgrade radio/CD to one with GPS/Bluetooth/DVD/MP3/etc (been looking this: MAXYON Hornet GPS Autoradio Chrysler 300C Navi RDS DVD CD USB SD Radio Bluetooth | eBay
6. Buy roof rack (for winter holiday - so no hurry yet)
7. Do service (K&N air filter and new spark plugs (NGK) allready ordered, 5W20 oil still looking...)
8. Change the rear lid gas springs (maybe so heavier ones so would open automatically with remote open...)
9. Something else?


Been little quiet with the Hemi lately but finally found time to mount the new radio/DVD/PVR/Bluetooth/GPS/DTV system I bought for Xmas. Basically the system was a drop-on with CAN module so streering wheel buttons work and the radio even sends the freq to the EVIC display (always only radio freq, no CD/DVD or any other info). But of course as my car had the midline 2 audio system with BA amplifier and 6 speakers I had to bypass the amp. As in Europe couldn't find the amp by-pass wire set for reasonable price I bought the connectors from Mouser and made my own amp bypass cable. The price was 1/2 with two set of parts... If someone wants the Mouser part# I can send them.

So the system is the same I linked there a little bit above. And it seems like decent unit with a lot of features and they seem to work as advertised. So sofar I'm pleased with the system. For now I didn't add a new amp, but have preamp wires allready attached and ready to be connected when I buy a new amp (will get this Pioneer GM-D8604 http://amzn.com/B00A02PG0C). And it looks like I can fit it to the about same place as the original one as that isn't that much bigger. So for now I made the own bypass cable so that the rear speaker wires will go straight from on old amp connector the the other and the front and windshield speakers go from the another straight to the head unit where they're parallel. The final solution will be so that the new amp will run door and back speakers and the HU the windshield speakers. I've allready purchased new 4x JBL GTO 939 and 2 x JBL GTO 329. Just have to find time to mount them...

For other goodies for the HU there was a separate DTV tuner and rearview camera. Also routed the 2nd room wires to be ready to connected to back LCD/DVD players for the kids. Rearview camera I still have to mount but because have to go trough the car will first buy cable set for the amp and run the wires at the same time so I don't have to tear the car down 2 times.

Now after most of the stuff is done have to say that thankfully there was a lot of room behind the HU as there is a lot of cables with all the options (3x rca for DTV, 3 x rca for rear LCD, 2 x rca for rearview camera, 5 x rca for amp and sub, 2 x USB extend cable, radio power + speaker cables + CAN decoder, GPS antenna, telephone external mic...). Mounted the DTV tuner with two sided tape to the module that is next to the original amp. For the DTV I used the power cables for original amp (as I made my own bypass could take 12V and GND there) but as I found out the power to the amp is always on so added a extra switch to turn the DTV tuner on and off. I added the power button also because I don't think I need the DTV that much so I can normally keep it off... Antenna I mounted to the windshield behind the rearview mirror.

Have to say that other than that extra button to power for the DTV I didn't need to modify the car or splice to any original wiring. Only made the hole bigger for the USB extender cable to fit trough the allready existing holes in the small place over cigarette lighter but that is not seen outside. Here is couple of pictures from the install and end result. So far I'm happy with the purchase even if I was a little afraid to buy "noname" head unit.

Old HU removed.

"amp bypass" cable.

A lot of cables (and DTV is still missing)...

USB extend and rear space cables.

Extra button for DTV power.

DTV Antenna.


Audio player (HDD/SD/USB).


Media menu.

GPS program.

GPS map view (night).

Rear "room" cables. There was also ready made hole in the space so no extra drilling.

By the way. Now after reading my initial post it seems like my todo list is empty. Or the original one is as I still have to mount the rearview camera and buy and install new amp


Now the audio upgrade is ready. It was a little bit tight with the amplifier placement but in the end it just fits to the oem location. About the speakers: I bought JBL 939 and JBL 329 speakers and even though their quite reasonable priced I have to say that they are definately upgrade over the OEM ones. The amp also gives nice boost to the low end. The front speaker change was a little bit more complicated than the rear of the one of the 3,5" below windscreen but nothing that can't be done. Also installed the rearview camera to help reversing. In the end desided to put the camera over rear plate because the wires were easy to get there without removing the pumber.

Also added LED auxliary highbeams as the stock high beams are like shit even if low beams are good. Earlier it seemed like the high beams don't give you any extra length to the lighting. Now it's a different story. I got the Vision-X 25W Light Cannon models and even though the light pattern is somewhat narrow it works good with the OEM light that are wide in the beginning. So for now my car has everything I listed I need. And have to say that the S100 front end works really good and has good features. The rearview camera even starts really fast as you put the transmission to R. Even if the machine is just starting otherwise (takes couple of seconds to start to play music at the startup) but the rearview camera comes on almost immediatly. At the same time also modified the light switch to enable the Auto mode. Works good.

Adaptor plate I made to install the new amp to the oem amp location. That hole was needed to get adequate clearance to the parking brake bedal. Otherwise the amp would not have fit.

Amp installed. You can also see the DTV receiver if you look sharply...

JBL 939 speakers compared to the OEM back and door speakers.

Instrument panel OEM speakers compared to the JBL 329 speakers. One have to remove the shields of the JBL to fit them under the speaker covers. And must say that the sound quality from JBL is much better on these ones.

Rearview camer over the licence plate.

Rearview image on the HU.

Modified light switch for auto mode.

Auxliary high beams with Vision-X licht cannons.