My new drag toy. 93 lx coupe carbed LS1/th400. (pics)
Compliments of JRracing @ http://ls1tech.com
I bought this car off of "PRAY HDR" a fellow Tech guy. It already has a lot of the work done. Just needs a few things here and there and some bugs worked out on it. I have a new coan th400 with rmvb and a brake. I'm putting in it. The car came with a NIB TCS 4K to 4.5K.
Here's a break down of the car.
PA K member and arms.
strange coil overs.
sn95 dual piston calipers.
Built 8.8 with spool and 4.56, Ultimate 8.8 girdle.
UPR adj uppers.
UPR anti roll bar.
383 eagle rotating assemble
diamond -2cc pistons.
Roll master double roller.
LS6 ported pump.
Maziere race pump.
T-rex cam 110lsa.
AFR 205's 58cc chambers, 8019 springs(650 lift).
Yella Terra ultra lite adj 1.7 RR's.
Caddy racing lifters.
Vic jr intake.
750cfm mighty demon carb.
MSD 6LS ignition box/MSD super conductor wires.
Kooks 1 7/8"x3.5 headers.
3" True duals X pipe with bullets dumped at axles.
Coan th400 rmvb with a brake
TCS 4K to 4.5K converter.
hurst quarter stick with pistol grip.
weld drag lites 15x8/15x3.5
Hoosier QTP 27x10.5x15
I have already been gathering some parts to get the car ready for this coming year. I am trying to keep this on a budget of $10K. (EDIT 1/09) way past that now!!!!
I will keep you guys up to date on the progress this winter. And I am going to need a lot of help and advice along the way!
This is the reason I de modded my SS. To help fund this car. Now I will just enjoy the camaro on the street, as a street car and not beat on it.
The car already has the hvac system removed, frt bumper support in favor of a CM tube bumper bar. Very light and still ads support.
List of things I still want to remove.
wipers/wiper motor and arms.
power steering pump and rack in favor of a FR manual rack.
My goal is to run mid 10's on motor and mid 9's on the dope.
I'm not real sure what it's going to weigh after all the work and the CM cage. But the guy I got it from said it was around 2650lbs the way it was. I'm hoping for no more than 2800lbs. I think thats realistic.
Well I tried to fire up the mustang and it would not fire. It seams there is no tach signal. The MSD box has a power and two grounds and a yellow tach wire. And a few GM plugs for coils and crank sensor and cam sensor.
I have power and ground but no rpm signal.
I called MSD and they want me to try and return it or send it in for repair. There's going to be another few weeks before I can hear it run. Bummer.
So I'm going to focus on other area's the next few weeks.
1.get the carpet and seats pulled out and ready for the cage work to be done. in 3 weeks I'm getting a CM 8 pt with through the floor SFC's.
2. Weld up the anti roll bar and TQ box plates.
3. Remove old SFC's that are bolted/tach welded in. Through the floor's going in.
3. Replace upper control arms with adj UPR's with rod ends.
4. Start removing PS rach and pump. For a manual rack.
This will be about it for the next two weeks. I will take pics along the way!
I got all the interior removed for the roll cage to be installed. I'm also patching the big hole in the floor for the shifter and another one near the rear seat were a drive shaft did some damage to it.
I'm also welding in some TQ box reinforcement plates for the upper and lower control arms. And welding in a CM anti roll bar on the rear.
Here are some pics with the interior out.
I did a few things this week. I got the UPR anti roll bar welded on and the old SFC's cut off to make way for the through the floor SFC's. I still have not got the car started yet. I can not get it to fire. No spark. I thought the msd 6ls was bad but I sent it in and they said it was fine. I will have to check the wiring again.
Well I got the upper control arm plates and the patch panel for the shifter hole welded in over the last few days. The welds suck *** but are very strong and get the job done. I need to finish up the lowers now and that is it for the rear suspension work.
I'm going to paint the entire bottom of the car with por 15. Also going to do the cage and inner floor pan once it comes back for the cage guy doing the cage work.
I just got the msd 6ls box back from them. It checked out ok. So now I need to find out why it does not want to start. I'm getting a laptop pc next week so I can put the software on it from msd. It has power and ground but no tach signal.
I just bought a used meizer race pump and adj alt bracket. So I will be selling my meizer street pump. $400 shipped if someones interested in it, PM me.
If the motor checks out ok, I may just pull it to put in the camaro with the ls6 int and Torquer v3 cam. Then go ahead and built this 383 short block I have and put it in the mustang with the T Rex, afr 205's and vic jr with the 750 demon carb. Boy, would that be nasty!!!
I'm not sure just yet.
Well I got the upper and lower control arm reinforcement plates on and welded up some holes in the floor. I also pulled the hood and left fender and frt bumper to start on the wiring nightmare. I think I'm going to gut all the wiring and put in a painless race car harness with switch panel.
I also still have not been able to get the car running. The msd box is not putting out any spark. I even tried re wiring it with no luck. MSD customer support has been of no help. They said get a laptop, so I did and it has windows vista on it and the usb to serial cable driver is not compatible with vista. So now I need to hook up an old desk top to it with 98 or xp on it and try again. I'm sick of this ****. I feel like I'm wasting time, but I want to hear it run before I pull the motor to put in my camaro. So I can start building my 383 for it.
Here's a few pics. Check out this wiring hack job. And no it was not me who did it...
The problem ended up being to slow of a crankingspeed. They said it needs to spin at least 230 rpm's to get a signal. I put another battery on it and a charger on boost and started showing rpm's on the laptop. This was with the plugs out to take the compression off. It worked. So I put the plugs and wires back on and tried again. It almost started once. But I think it is still not spinning fast enough. It was only showing 190 rpm's on the pc. I ended up boiling the battery over. So it's trashed. I'm going to get a bigger battery and try again tomorrow.
At least I know what the problem is now. I just want to hear the motor run. Then I'm going to pull it and get it ready to put in my camaro.
I dropped the 383 off at the machine shop today. And I picked up the painless wiring race car kit.
Houston, we have ignition! I got the bitch started today!!!!!! Bout ******* time.
I'm not real sure what the problem ended up being as we changed several things at once and it started sparking.
1. I hooked the power and ground straight to the optima battery. We had it so juiced it was starting to boil.
2. I put the original crank sensor back in. I don't think this had anything to do with it.
3. We put my starter in it out of the camaro.
I think the starter could have been causing "noise" so my man said. He has seen this problem with nissan's with the crank sensor next to the starter. If the starter has any problems with in it, like the winding's or dragging at all, it makes signal noise which the CS will pick up causing spastic signal in the sensor. In this case a new starter fixed the problem. But my father and I had it firing last night with the other starter, so this might not be it!
It would not run off of the gas in the tank, it was old and smelled bad. I pumped all of it out and went to my house and got 5 gallons of 110 octane, put that in and primed it up to the carb. It popped right off and fired up with a little help of either.
We ran it for about 15 minutes to check the oil pressure and other vitals. The motor ran very well. I should of taken a video of it running. But I was so excited it was running I didn't think about it.
We were standing there bull shitting, I started disconnecting everything, next thing you know I have the motor ready to come out. We went ahead and pulled it. It's on the floor now.
I'm glad I took it out in stead of running it like it was, when we pulled it the right side mount got hung up because they are welded directly to the K member, and it ripped the plate right off of the cm tube that is welded to the K member. Now I know why you don't mig cm tubing!!!!!
All in all I think it something to do with either the starter or wiring to power and ground to the battery. When I got it fired, it was only using the optima battery with no charger on it. So I'm still not clear on what it was.... I'm just glad it's running now, or was. We'll see what happens when the 383 goes in. I'll have the whole car re wired then.
I'll snap some pics tomorrow.
Ok I got the motor out now and Im ready to start striping the wiring out of the car.
Here's a few pics. I'm also going to fill a lot of hole in the engine bay and paint it while the motor is out.
Here are a few goodies I got going on the motor. A Mereire race pump and BMR adj altinator bracket. And the painless race car wiring harness with fuse panel and 8 switch panel.
Also, check out the right motor mount that easily broke when pulling the motor. Glad I pulled it, it would broke going down the track I'm sure.
I was just wondering the other day if you had that put in yet. LOL, those bearings are a bitch, I hate those. I had to pay $60 to get them pulled off at some shop. I pressed them on ok, but it takes a bearing splitter to get behind them to come off.
The build is not go as fast as I would like, I had to screw with that dam msd box for weeks, It set me back a bit. So now I'm in high gear. And the list of things to do is growing as I go. Go figure. I want it right though!!!
Well I got almost all of the engine bay welded up. I was welding for about 8 hours. I bet I welded up 100 holes in that car. I only left like 4 holes. The steering shaft, brake booster, oil line and throttle cable. Oh and one other large hole for the wiring harness for the stuff out front like lights. I'm pretty sure I'm going to need those lol.
Now I have about 4 hours of grinding ahead of me. I'm going to start on that tomorrow after I finish up a collision job. Between now and Friday I hope to have all the body work done on the engine bay and in primer.
I will post pics later, I left the camera at the shop.
I also got some work done on the engine I pulled out of the stang. I tore it down and got the T-Rex cam out and the Torquer V3 put in. I need to switch out the oil pans for the one that goes on the camaro and build the rest of the motor back up. I also painted the ls6 intake gloss black with bc/cc. It does not look as good as the fast 90 did but better than just a plain ol stock one. I hope to have the motor fully built by next week. I'm waiting on some gaskets to come in.
Scott, I'm not sure of the part # on the painless kit. I will confirm tomorrow. I will also lay out the ford harness I pulled out and take some pics of it. It was pretty heavy though.
I've taken a little break from it. I'm waiting on the guy who is going to be doing the cage work. He was backed up at work and has not had the time to get this other car finished. But now he is back at it and wants three more weeks to get it done.
So I've spent some time on the camaro and painted the fire wall and strut towers. They had a lot of scratches from working on it in the tight space. I also polished the A/C lines and evaporator, they look pretty good. I also had my buddy put the new 4.10 motive gear in the 10 bolt. And put the other front shock back together. I just need to get the front shock put on and the rear end put in the car and it will be ready to put the motor and tranny back in.
Speaking of, I got the motor all put together with the Torquer 3 cam and ls6 intake with a ported TB. But when we were rotating the motor over and tightening the rockers, we noticed the springs almost looked to be in coil bind. The T v3 has more intake lift then the T Rex. So we need to pull some springs and check the installed height of them and see what the coil bind is on the Patriot gold springs. It looks pretty sitting on the engine stand though. I will snap some shots of it this weekend.
Update time, I spent some time finishing up the paint work on the engine bay. I also re painted the K member and A arms. I will be installing it back on the car tomorrow with the manual rack. I painted the engine bay the factory body color with dupont base/clear coat and did the outer wheel house with por 15.
I also got it to my chassis guy and got the 8pt CM cage done and through the floor sub frame connectors. He also made me a new tranny cross member and made new motor stands on the K member. He busted *** with a friend and did it all in two days. I was shocked. There is a few things I'm concerned with but I will get them worked out. The seat needs to go back and down, it hits the door bars and the bar does not cross between my shoulder and elbow. So I need to get that resolved. And the tranny mount does not have the double humps in it for the dual exhaust. I will have to modify that.
But the guys work is kick ***.
I will get the cage and floor paited with por 15 when I get the seats worked out and make a plate for the shifter to sit on.
Well I got the seat brackets done. I got the drivers seat to be able to slide all the way back to try and help with the side bar problem. It's close to making it, with my hand on the bottom of the wheel, my elbow it right at the bar. I may let it ride and see what happens. I used some 1/8 mild steel flat stock to make the passenger seat bracket. It is very stout.
I also got the shifter plate mounted. I welded three bolts to the bottom of the plate to bolt the shifter to. I used a 10 gauge plate of steel and welded it to the floor. It is very solid.
I also got the news my motor is ready to be picked up from the machine shop. Finally! We will be building it over the next month or so. I need to get mt other motor back in the camaro first. I'm ready to drive that dam car, it's been down since August.
Good news, I got my motor back in my camaro and up and running. So once I button up a few things on it, we are going to put the 383 on the motor stand and start building it.
I also have a NHRA inspector coming over this week to inspect the cage to see if the door bar will cert. If not I will have to redo it. We'll see.
Well I had the NHRA tech guy at my shop today to inspect the cage..... he said the driver side door bar is to low.
So I called the guy who did the cage and talked with him about re doing that bar asap. I'm taking it back to his house next week and it should only take him one night to fix it.
The tech guy also said I need a seat brace coming off the cage to the back of the seat. So I might try to get the guy to make that as well.
I'll post up pics when I get it back.
other then that I have not done much else to the car. But we are going to start assembling the motor next week.
I also took some time to get the other motor back in the camaro and got it running. I put about 45 miles on it the other day. It drives great.
Well I took the car back to the guy who did the cage last night. He cut the door bar out and made it just like in your picture above. We just went with a straight bar and curved it around the arm rest. It will pass tech now with out a dout. But the we left the passenger side bar the way it was. It will make it easier to get in and out of. I got a few pics of it, but I left the camera at the shop for another job I am working on. It's a big one. I will post a few this weekend.
HAHA, I knew some people were wondering how it was going. I did manage to get the cage and floor pan painted with por 15. It looks great. I tried to upload them one night but I lost the pics in the process. I need to get some new ones.
That's about it really. The past few months I have been spending a great deal of time trying to get on the Fire Dept. I want to be a full time fireman and run my body shop on my off days. My father and brother both work for fire depts and I thought it would be a great thing for me to get into now that I have a family!!
I've applied at three different departments. So I've been at the gym almost every night getting in shape and studying for there written tests. I'm still in the running at Pike Township on the NW side of Indy. I find out next week were I rank out of 150 people who passed the written test. From 400 who applied!
So, now that that is kinda winding down I'm ready to start assembling the engine now. I need a few parts for the top end but I at least want to get the bottom end assembled and start measuring what head gasket size I will need to run.
The parts I need for the top end.
1. Caddy lifters, something happened to my comps, one of the pins fell out of the roller, so I do not trust them now.
2. yella terra ultra lite adjustable 1.7 RR's.
3. full set of engine gaskets. I think I'm going to use a set of fel-pro head gaskets this time.
4. GMPP bow tie valve covers.
I will post some pics of the cage now that it is painted. And I hope to have some pics of the short block all built in a few weeks.
We are going to start building the 383 short block this weekend. I will take some pics along the way. I just got the caddy lifters along with a new set of ls2 lifter trays and a set of yella terra ultra lite 1.7 adjustable roller rockers.
Well we finally got the short block built. What should of took 2 weeks at most, took two months due to my motor head buddies hectic schedule and mine. He really takes his time in checking all the details and clearances. But we finished it up this past week end. Now I am going to install the wind-age tray and timing set/cam, and covers. Now we are ready to what head gasket and PR length we need to use.
I also changed my plans on putting a sump in the tank and choose to just buy a sumped plastic 12 gallon fuel cell with a sending unit. I have it mounted and a sheet metal skid plate made for the sump. I need a few more fittings to finish that up.
Once we get the motor sitting in the car, everything else will go pretty fast.... I hope....
Here is a few pics of the fuel system not finished.
That truck is my fathers 68 step side I am restoring for him. It is a long way from finished right now. Seems I have to many irons in the fire at the moment. I tried to convince him to put a 5.3 in it. But he could not give up the old sbc 350 he has on a stand that has been there for like 5 to 6 years.
It is getting a late model step side bed. I already shaved the handles, getting remote poppers, one peice door glass kit(no vent window), steel cowl hood and smoothed fire wall with a vintage air hvac.
It should be really slick when finished. It will be a cooper pearl color.
Here is the short block put together. I feel releived that is done. I'm trying to find the time to get all the bottom end stuff buttoned up. Then we are going to measure for head gasket size we need and PR length. I'm hoping for 12.5-1 or a little better.
I also manged to get the rest of the stuff on the fuel tank and pump done. Now working on the other end, at the regulator.
with the cometic .040" gasket and 7.400" P, 58cc heads, T rex cam, The clay had roughly .120" to .150" clearance. I was surprised to see that much. I did the test with two welded up lifters in place.
Then we measure the piston/deck height, the piston is -.011" out of the hole. and with the cometic .040"/3.9115" bore(used gasket). THe CR is going to be 12.95:1. WOW, not a pump gas motor.. Oh'well.
I'll snap a few pics later this week. It's looking pretty nice on the stand with th AFR heads and YT ultra lites on it. GMPP valve covers on there way soon also. Trying to decide on buying two right sides with the fill hole, so I can put a fat breather on both sides....
I got the GMPP valve covers and head gaskets today. I ended up going with a .051" to make the CR 12.5:1. That should be plenty fine.
I hope to meassure one more time tomorrow (3rd time) to be totally sure everything is as I think it is. Then bolt the heads up Sunday. Then hopefully through the week we can get the rockers set up and get the oil pump and cover buttoned up.
Then I can finally get the motor in the car.
I am thinking about powder coating the valve covers, leaving the logo polished, the valley cover and the vic jr gloss black. How do you guys think that will look?
I plan on taking all of next week off to pull the mustang in my shop and put in a full work week on it. Maybe two weeks if I can hold customers off for that long.
I plan on getting a **** load done next week. Stay tuned for the next few weeks.
1. Getting the brake master cylinder in and all the lines done up.
2. Putting the motor in.
3. Trans put in and measure for the drive shaft.
4. Relocate coils inside the cowl panel and get a custom wire set made.
5 Cooling system done.
6. Mount the MSD box under the dash were it will be easy to get to for tuning.
I got the plug wires figured out. I'm having a sponsor build a custom set.
I made coil brackets today out of a 1/4 all thread and aluminum spacers with 1/4 lock nuts on the ends. Then took 22 ga sheet metal cut to 4"x2.5" sheets, drilled two holes in each end for the all thread to slide through. Then welded them to the bottom side of the cowl. They are right above the trans tunnel.
I also got the brake lines all worked out. I put a wilwood manual master cylinder kit on. Reused most of the stock brake lines, had to clean them up with a scotch brite pad. I did away with the stock portioning valve and I have a 10psi residual valve on the rear with a ford motor sports adjustable portioning valve.
I have to cut and shorten two lines and get one fitting that did not match up to a tee I have for the fronts. And my buddy is bring home the flare tool.
I will get pics tomorrow, I forgot the camera today.
OK, here are the coil brackets I made to hang the coils on.
I also mounted the MSD 6-LS box down on the trans tunnel were it will be out of the way and easy to get to for tuning.
I found a nice spot to mount the painless pro street fuse panel. I will end up cutting the glove box off to make way for easy access of the fuse panel.
I got the brake lines finished up. I will admit, it does not look as if a race shop did it, but it will get the job done. I topped it off and pumped some pressure on it to look for leaky fittings. All is good so far. I need to bleed them really good over the next few days.
I got the starter clocked, made sure it cleared the headers fine.
The headers are for a 351W with LS1 flanges welded to them. I ported the inside of the tubes were the weld were and painted them with POR 15 header paint. We'll see how it does.
The hole in the fire wall on the right side is were the plug wires will go through. I only drilled it big enough to get the string through it to measure. I will enlarge it when I find a good size grommet I will be using.
I got the coan th400 put in today and checked the fitment of the crs shield. It fits really well with a lot of room all around it in the tunnel. But the shield needs trimmed around the cooler lines, one of them will not line up.
The crossmember the guy made me is tucked up high like I wanted it.
I called Patterson's drive shafts, a local shop here in Indy with a very good rep. They are making me a 3.5" steel shaft with 1350 joints, th400 yoke, and a billet 8.8 at the other end. It was a bit more than I expected but worth every penny, I'm sure.
Then I put the headers back on and now there's a problem. The headers were on this car with a T56 not a th400. So the headers are hitting the tranny pan due to how the flanges are welded on. so I cut the welds loose and turned them were I could still get the bolts in and will re weld them there.And the trans brake noid is up against the right side. Also the o2 bungs are very close to the pan. Gotta plug them up and weld one on the out side for my wide band. And the last hurdle is that the right side exhaust pipe hits the cross member pretty good. I need to use some heat and massage it or do some cutting and welding there.
Here's some picture to shake this thread up lol. I have to stop on the mustang this week as I have a collision repair job that came in the door. Work then play, right. It's a 91 Jaguar xks. Sweet car, 34K miles, mint inside and out. The fellow rearended a van. It's actually a very easy repair.
I managed to poke at the car a little this week. I got the new pinion mounted to the 8.8 and re measured for the drive shaft. The drive shaft is done and ready to be picked up.
I also got a few more wires ran through the fire wall and the vacuum hose for the map sensor.
And the catch can is mocked up.
I will post more pics this weekend. I hope to put in a full week on it next week.
I found a cure for my header problems. I ordered a set of Kooks 1 7/8". I hope they fit well with little to no adjustments needed. And I will be putting a larger X pipe setup on it with bullets.
So if all works out ok I will put this setup up for sale. BBK 1 3/4" with 2.5" X and flow masters dumped at axles.
I bought a braille battery, it's the 15lb version it has 1067ca at 80 degrees and like 575ca at 30 degrees. Does anyone have any personal experience with these?
I managed to get the radiator in along with the puke tank. I'm not real fond of these little perma cool fans but I will give them a shot and see if they get the job done. I also hope this stock radiator keeps this engine cool. I don't see why it wouldn't.
I got the TCI pan on and drilled the hole in the wrong spot at first for the temp sender then found a better spot were it didn't hit the valve body inside and drilled and tapped it. So I had to plug up the wrong hole. I was pissed. But it is cool now.
So then later today the Kooks headers show up. I was stoked. I ordered them last Thursday. That's less then a week turn around time. That's great.
BUT... they hit a tube on the K member. The drivers side is pretty bad and the pass is very minor. I want to just grind a little on the rt side but the lt one will require cutting a tube and rewelding around the header. I don't want to dent any of the tubes. I'd rather modify the K member since it has already been cut on.
Let me also make this clear. I knew when I bought them that I was taking a risk on them fitting. This car has a PA K member. And I was told a road racing peice. So I'm not sure how much support this tube is for. Is it more for side load/latteral G's??
I would like some serious advise on what to do before I go cutting on the K member this weekend. Can any of you chassis guy chime in on this one? Detailed pics right here.
The lt side hits so bad that the flange will not lay flat against the head. It lacks about 1/8". The rt sits flat and barely touches the tube. I love everything else about the fitment. They could be a tad lower. They also clear the T brake niod nicely compared to the BBK's.
Well I ended up cutting the support tubes out of the K member and had to dent two tubes on the left side and one on the right. I didn't want to but it was either that or buy the AJE K Member and I didn't want to fork out the money right now so I did what I had to do.
The car is all packed up and on it's way to get wired and mostly finished by a friend of a friend who works on race cars. He is doing all the wiring and gauges, final assembly of the tranny and cooler and a list of other small things. When I get it back it should be about ready to hit the key. I can't hardly wait!!!!
I still have a ton of stuff to do when it comes back but least it's on the down hill side..
I got the car back the other day. The wiring job looks awesome. The guy took his time and made everything nice and tight. I'm very pleased with the work.
I'll post some pics this weekend.
We tried to crank the engine over to prime the oil system but could not get any pressure at the gauge. It seems there is something wrong. Should it show some pressure when cranking?? I did not pay attention to the cranking speed. I tore the front end down and we put some ultra slick assembly lube in the oil pump to see if that would create enough suction to put the oil up through the engine. No luck. I could also tell the top end was not getting oil. Lifters not priming up.
And to make matters worse, there is a squeaking sound coming from the engine now when cranking. I hope it is not a dry bearing problem...
Any idea's guys? We put 10w30 petroleum oil in it and used permatex ultra slick on everything when assembled.
I'm going to check the shim for the oil pump(double roller chain) and maybe take the pan off to make sure it is not bottomed out on the oil pan from shimming the windage tray..
I took the plugs out and cranked it a few times and it finally came up. It hit 40psi cranking. Now I need to put the front cover and all that **** back on and we are going to tackle the ignition problem. I got a cable today that is vista compatible so I can see if the msd communicates with the pc. Going back to the shop now.
I got the engine and cooling system put back together last night. I then cranked the engine with the valve covers off to watch all the lifters pump up. And they did. I was very pleased to see that.
So I put the valve covers on and plugs back in it, put the wires back on and tried to hook the pc up to the car. But no I can not remember my password for the laptop. I messed with it for about 20 mins and called it quits for the night. But I did notice the engine was cranking very slow, even with a deep cycle battery hooked to the little braille battery. So I put the charger on boost and with the key, still nothing. The tach was jumping up and down but could not really see the actual cranking speed. MSD will say "what is the cranking speed"? Like they did last time. So I have to get the pc up and running first. I may take it to fry's and see if they can get into it. I thought I knew the password but tried for about an hour or so last night, no luck. I have not used it for about 6 months due to a virus that was on it I could not figure out how to get it off there. So I left it alone.
Can any of you pc geeks tell me how to get into this thing?
Well I took the pc to Fry's and they said it is corrupt. They will have to clear it off and reload it with vista. He is going to try to recover any data he can but doubtful it will work. Vista is harder to crack into with all the security **** it has. Oh'well.
But on the up side... I didn't need it to get it fired up today. We put 110 leaded in the tank and primed it up to check for leaks. All was good so we hit the starter and it acted like it wanted to run. I pumped the carb a bunch of times to dump the fuel in it and tried again. It started right up. I kept it at about 2000 rpm's until it was warmed up a little. Oil pressure was 60psi temp got up to 150 so I turned the fans and water pump on. Then let it idle for a sec. The rockers were very noisy, they still need adjusted.
I did find a few oil leaks. 1 from the oil sending unit, seems like it needs thread sealant put on it. And the 2nd was pouring out of two bolt holes in the front of the oil pan. Looks like little 6mm bolts go in there. they are not the bolts that go into the block.
I'll post a video and pics tonight when we get back from dinner.. I'm VERY relieved to see it run again. You know how it is when assembling a motor yourself, you never know what could be wrong. LOL.
Video up, The quality sucks. now before anyone blow's me any ****. The rockers need to be adjusted. So they are quit noisy. We will be fixxing this tomorrow as well as a few oil leaks. And my laptop is fix and ready to be picked up. I'm gonna get it in the morning so we can play with the MSD software after getting the motor dialed in.
The car is not near as loud as I thought it would be.
Well the rockers were loud cause they were beating the **** out of the valve covers. I hope it didn't hurt anything. I had to clearance the inside of the covers with a grinder. They still hit a little bit so I need to do it again tomorrow. This will be the 4th time I've had to do this. The motor sounds a lot better now.
I also got the oil leak's fixxed.
I got a few things done over the last few weeks. I had to get a new throttle cable. The one I had was frayed and had been cut and installed wrong. We got a new lokar and measured it out then cut it to size. It took longer than I thought to do something like this, 2.5 hours by the time you figure it out and get it adjusted correctly.
I also looked over the front suspension, I greased the A frame bushings and check all the bolts. Then we looked over the front brakes. Both calipers need replaced. They stay hung up once I lift off the pedal. We checked the line to make sure one was not pinched or anything. So I'm going to replace them with reman sn95 dual piston calipers. They are also aluminum, so that's cool. I don't plan on buying the Fancy drag brakes yet!
I just got started on the console today. I cut some off of it and kept the part around the shifter and on up to the dash, around the radio and heater controls. I made a aluminum diamond plate panel to cover the heater control panel. That will be another place for switches to mount for the n2o next year. I am also going to make a plate to cover around the shifter to match. I'm also putting the pioneer CD player back in with two 6x9's in the rear deck. I want to have tunes for cruising. And for throwing in a metallica cd to get amped up before a run! LOL.
I got the new Auto Meter pro shift system installed. It seems like it is going to be a bad *** shift light. It is programmable for up to 4 gears and has a progressive **** mode the goes from yellow, orange to green when you shift. Instead of just turning one color to shift. It lets you know when it is coming up, pretty cool idea I think.
I got a stick of Jaz sfi roll bar padding and put it around any area were my melon comes in contact with the cage. And I got a new Jaz seat cover for the drivers seat. The car had one and the other was plain black. They did not match.
I got a new seat brace for the drivers seat. The one I made was in the center and was in the way of the shoulder belts. I also got grade 8 1/2" bolts for the shoulder belts.
I need to get some pics. I have been lazy about that, and the dam thing is in my desk drawer. But has dead batteries lol. I will get some up pretty soon.
I got the headers out the other day to Prokote to get ceramic coated inside and out. They were starting to look pretty bad after running it several times now. It's amazing how fast they start to rust.
I worked on the console a little more today. I ended up cutting off more of it around the shifter, it just did not look as good as I thought.
I got a few current pics today. We got the rear end all buttoned up and checked out. I cut a few brackets out from under the car. I got the seats/belts in. I have to get someone to tig the new seat brace to the cage and put the radio in it. Yes, I want a radio and two speakers.
I also got the eaders back from Prokote of Indy. The look great.
I pulled it out on the street and ripped up and down the road a few times. I'm glad I put it up quickly, the cops showed up after I parked it!
I worked on it for an hour or so tonight and got the fenders and front bumper on it.It looks like a car again! It looks soooooo good. It needs a few adjustments to be finished so I will get pics in a few days. The fenders will need painted. They look like **** next to the fresh bumper and hood.
Finally! The pics everyone's been waiting to see, including me. It looks like a car again after a year and a half.
There is still a lot to be done in a short amount of time. To go racing lol.
Thanks guys. I have a brand new black carpet for it. It will be the last thing I put in. I want to make sure all the welding and wiring is done first and then I will cut and glue the carpet down in it.
It has a few oil leaks I need to get figured out. One small one is at the oil pan on the drivers side. It is tight but still leaking near a bolt. It is coming from between the pan/block. I think I'm going to lower the pan and clean it, then put a small amount of right stuff selant in between.
The next on is coming around the oil sending plug/adaptor. It is a brass fitting made it fit in the ls1 with a 3/8 hole to put a flare fitting in for the oil line. The brass fitting is leaking around the block. I have tried everything from teflon to right stuff around the threads to nothing at all but the brass washer it came with. It still leaks around the brass.
The next leak was coming out of the big breather in the passenger valve cover. So I taped it up to stop it from leaking and now it pushed a tone of oil into the catch can and is leaking from that breather on top of the tank.
Can anyone give me some idea's to try?????
I will snap a few more pics today, I'm getting ready to go over there and work on it. There is a breather in both valve covers, one large one and one small one. I also put a -8an in the valley cover and that goes to the catch can with a breather on that. Once I closed off the valver cover breather it was pushing it out the catch can breather.
The oil sender adapter is a 16mmx?thread. I ordered the correct fitting from jegs. It came with a brass washer. The fitting has a 3/8" hole in the top of it for the 3/8 flare fitting which the oil line hooks to. The sucker leaks no matter what I do. I think the adapter has a flare on the bottom causing it to not seat down all the way. But then again it looks tapered like a pipe thread should be, starts out small and gets larger as it goes up, therfor sealing as you tighten it.
I'll snap several pics and check back in later today.
You kinda of misunderstood, the leak is around the block and pipe fitting. Not the tappered AN fitting the oil lne screws on to. I have pics up and a video. You will see what I'm saying. I ended up putting a few layers of teflon on it yesterday and the brass washer and it has not leaked again and I have put manybe 25 miles on it. I'm good there.
Now onto the PVC deal. I kinda think I need to do something about this. I have a breather in both valve covers and a -8AN hose coming off of the valley cover to a catch can with another breather. So yes, I am just venting the motor with no vacume on it.
It is spitting it out of both large breathers and a minor leak on the oil pan. It now does not seam to be as bad as it was at first but still spitting on the fire wall and I have to keep the one on the valve cover partially blocked to keep it off the header. Sucks ***.
Advice and thoughts on this please...
Now to the fueling/tuning the carb. I am a noob at this but I think it is going in the right direction today. I started off by checking the jets to see what was in there. I thought it was what "came in it as new" well turns out it was not. The box says 75p/83s jets PV6.5 pink cams 31 squirter.
The front jets were 70's and the rear 78's. This ran at 13.5:1 at idle and 12.5 to 13.5:1 at 2500 rpm's then went way rich at wot, like as high as 18:1.
So after lots of jet changes I now have 75's up front with the 6.5PV and 90's in the rear with no power valve. I have the idle leaned out to 14:1 and part throttle around 13.5:1 and wot goes lean for a split sec the fattens up quickly to 13:1.
I think it is safer now but will still need more work to get dialed in. The car is very responsive and drives great.
I also put a vacume gauge on the carb and at 900 rpm's with the car in gear and holding the brakes it drew 10" of vacume. Should I drop to a 5 power valve?
Not a bad idea on the evac setup. The intake has a plug screwed into it on the right rear. I could screw a an fitting on it maybe. Then run that to the valley cover. But the two are VERY close to each other. Would this pull a lot of oil through the engine??
On the carb, the floats are set to the middle line on both frt and Rr. I will order a 5 PV and put that in there and see how it responds.
As far and timing, we have not really got into that other than setting it around 18 to 22 at idle and backed down the total timing to 28 to be on the safe side. And dropped the limiter to 5800rpm's to keep from twisting to hard on the new motor. I don't know about the advance. The plugs are ngk TR6 gapped at .045"
My buddie who is helping me with tuning it is down and out, just had knee surgery and will not be back on his feet for at least 6 weeks and I don't really have that long as my first big race date is May 30th. Pinks ALL OUT here in Indy.
I know what you mean about making to many changes at once. Ya never know what made the difference.
It really does not have a stumble to it. Rather a lean spot and then quickly starts to richen up to 12.3 to 13.5:1 at wot. I need to get the laptop hooked up to it so I can log some runs and post them.
The car is very responsive and does not fall on it's face at all. It just goes....
I got a few things done lately. I lowered the car down on the rear tires. I also tried another set of wheels and tires from a buddie. The have 1" of more back spacing. They fit alot better but the tires are way to small it's a 235 DR vs my 27x10.5". The car looks better sitting lower.
That little 235 DR was already on there. It was on my buddies car. I'm putting a 28x10.5x15S on it this weekend.
The carb is currently plug pv's and 82/87 jetting. It runs pretty good WOT but part throttle is still very rich. And loads up.
I'm switching back to my 6.5pv and 75/90 jetting. It was close just needed fine tuned from that range. The car drove fine like this.
Vacume is 10 to 11 inches at idle, in gear with foot on brakes.
I managed to spend a few hours tonight getting the carb switched back around. I picked up a 5.5 pv and jetted it to 75/87. I'm going to work it out from there. It should be close.
I got 3' of -8AN and a -8 45AN and made a new vent hose. I made it go up to the rear package tray and the down through the floor. I don't think it will splash gas.
I took the driver seat out to re-tap and seat mounting hole that was stripped.
I also picked up my slicks. I hope to mount them by this weekend.
If the idle is between 10" and 11" of vacume at idle. And the rule of thumb was half of that, then that would be a 5.5pv. And if there is still a lean spot I can adjust from there.
I might be able to drive it tonight to find out how it does. If not it will be this weekend. My wife has a minor surgery and my daughter fell at the sitters Monday and fractured her leg. We took her yesterday and got a cast put on it. So these two things are take top priority over everything right now.
I'm home with her the rest of the week and it really sucks for her. All she can do is sit or lay down for 3 weeks. And all she wants to do is get up and play. It breaks my heart.
Here are some pics of fitting the 28x10,5 ET drag on the 15x8 5.5bs wheels. I had to clearance the quarter panels for safe clearance.
I got the car scaled today. That was cool, I learned a lot of things. It weighs 2630lbs with out me and 6 gallons of fuel. With me and a helmet and work clothes and boots it was 2820lbs.
The frt to Rr disbursement was 55%frt and 44%Rr. If the motor was 2" back were it should be it would be right on target. Lt to Rt was 13lbs heavier on the right.
We went over the whole chassis front to rear checking things and making adjustments. We set the pinion at -2. He said there did not look like there would not be any bump steer. We also centered the rear end.
I feel a bit safer taking it to the track now that I have that done by a chassis guy. And I'm happy to see it weigh what I thought it would. I was shooting for 2600lbs.
We are taking it to the dyno tomorrow for some fine tuning on the rollers. Stay tuned...
We went to the dyno yesterday and I was not pleased with the out come. First of all we were the last one to get on it. So it was 5:30 by the time we got on it. The car started out very lean with the 5.5pv, 75frt/87Rr jets. We went up 5 on both, it was still lean. Went up 5 more and it was rich. Dropped it 2 sizes and it was rich again. Went up 1 and it was lean.
We could not get it just right. The guy at the dyno shop said every demon he has seen was junk. They could never get them just right. He suggested switching the carb to something else.
We bumped the timing 2 deg at a time until it lost power. We ended up with 32 total.
My wideband was not reading the same as his. So I pulled my sensor and put on of his in there and hooked it to his pc on the dyno.
The end result was 420ish hp and 400ish tq. It was late and I forgot to get the graph. I made about 8 pulls between all the jet changes. We ended up with 85frt/96Rr jets and she is a little rich running in the 11.8:1 range. But with one size lower jets it would run around 13.5 to 13.8:1 and lost about 50hp.
Over all I was not impressed. I either need to find someone who can help me get this carb right or I need to get a diff carb.
The car pulls really hard on the street and revs quickly.
I just got off of Quick fuels web site and Pro systems. They look like some nice carbs. I'm gonna do a little digging around to see what I can find. Also I'm going to call both company's tomorrow and talk with them a little bit to feel them out and see what they recommend for my setup.
I found a guy on corral who has a quick fuel 850 for $350 but it has vacume secondarines. how hard and $ would it cost to switch it to mech secondaries?
That buddies of mine was going to come over today but could not make it here. He is going to bring that quick fuel over tomorrow.
Boy's she is fast... I took it to the track tonight for some base line runs and to get the susp figured out.
I started out running 1/8 mile the first few passes. Foot braking it.
60' 330' 1/8
1st run 1.48 4.30 email@example.com
2nd run 1.92 4.78 firstname.lastname@example.org junk run
3rd run 1.44 4.27 email@example.com costing to a firstname.lastname@example.org
So once I knew she would go staight and make it all the way down the track I figured it was time to run it out the back door. And it was time to see what the trans brake would feel like. I set the 2 step at 3000 and let'r eat.
The run went like this.
I was more than happy with that for a first time out/base line.
The car drove straight as a pin. From 60' on out it was like driving my silverado lol. It was very easy to drive and predictable. The A/F was at 11.0 at the traps. that is if it is reading correctly. We were showing a differance on the dyno with his wide band. I never pulled a plug to verify at the end of the track. I will next time.
I will not be spraying it this year. I gotta save something for next year lol.
I have a Edlebrock RPM Performer plate kit I plan on putting on over the winter. It will go up to a 250 shot. We will start out with the 100 pills and play with that for a month or so and go from there. I also have a NX Maximizer progressive controller to use with it and it will have a 1 gallon stand alone fuel cell.
I will switch to a 3.73 or maybe 4.10 for the juice and maybe the converter. It is around 4500+ on the stall.
My goal is to run N/A this year and crack into the 9's. And maybe next year sneak into the 8's
I got the carb finished up today and just happened to be tnt night. We took it to the track and it went 10.17@130 and 10.18@130 on the first two runs.
The plug looked lean so we jetted it up 2 and it fell off to 10.30@129.
I didn't get a chance to make any other adjustments after that.
I got my shirts made for Pinks All Out. I ordered 100 shirts for my crew and friends.
I got sizes from kids smalls to 3X in adult size.
10.33 pass this past Thursday night. This was in +3300 DA weather.
Man I had a major dum *** attack yesterday. My buddies calls me up and says, hey will you run down to napa and try to get some discount tickets for pinks all out? I said cool I was just chilling after putting the decals on the mustang for pinks, so no big deal! But napa was closing in 10 min. But I'm like 4 min from there.
So I hurry up and close the shop up and jumped in the mustang and fired it up, got buckled in and pulled off to napa. All was good getting on the road. Checking all my gauges like always, feeling the car out.
All the sudden..Wham, the hood fly's up in my face. Oh **** I forgot to put the pins back in!!!! It came back and smoked the cowl. Demolished the plastic grill and totally bent the hell out of the metal. The hood has minor niks and chips on the edge of the cowl part. I was so pissed for forgetting the pins.
I drove it back to my shop after going to napa and getting zero tickets. Yeah right! pulled it in and my wife comes over to the shop, she didn't see it at first but once I showed her she bout **** herself. My buddie cam over to see if I got the tickets when he got off work. I bout slapped him for rushing me. Even though it was my stupidity. I took off the broken grill and the window trim then took the 10 lbs slide hammer to it to get the metal pulled back out close enuff to hammer and dolly the metal to were it was muddable.
We got it repaird today and painted tonight. I just repaired the cowl for now. the hood I can touch up and buff out. And my buddy had a grill for the cowl panel. So tomorrow it will look like it never happened.
I can laugh about it now! But I about **** my pants when it happened. I was only doing about 35 mph.
I know this was long, but I also know a lot of you have been there before. Thanks for reading.. Sorry, no pics. I started pulling it out as soon as I got back.
Here is a video of my first run on Sat.
A few pics frome pinks all out in Indy.
We are putting a 4.10 gear in the car next week to see if it picks up a little bit. The car is crossing the stripe at 7500 rpm's and seems to be out of the meat of the power range.
From 7 to 7500 it is just kind of level, not really pulling as hard. Anothet setup like mine on here is trapping 135-137 at 7000rpm's.
i'd like to see 135 mph out of the car.
Well I put the 4.10 in it but have not been able to fully test it. We went one day and the car was sputtering down track. it took 5 runs to figure out the fuel filter was clogged with plastic shavings. Once we clean it out we got one last run in.
10.35@129 1.45 60'. The track was ****. A lot of street cars there that day.
looking forward to cool air this fall.
The car is more streetable with the 4.10's.
I gotta pb tonight of 1.41 email@example.com 1/8- firstname.lastname@example.org at the traps. It's getting there. I just need to find the right settings on the shocks and carb.
The NMCA results from Memphis are posted in there Fastest Street Car magizie. I did pretty good compared to the rest of the index classes. Hopefully I can go for the 10.00 index. And the event has moved to St.louis, MO at Gate Way International Raceway.
The motor and tranny are out and the new setup is under way. I'm switching to a super victor intake, changing the cam to a custom grind spec'd by Patrick G, it will be a solid roller. We are putting the Edlebrock nitrious plate kit on it with a nano bottle and dedicated fuel pump for the system. I'm also going to get the chassis cert done before spring so that is one less thing to worry about. I will wait til we spray it to get the liceinsing done.
I got the new retro fit oil pan kit in and started fitting it. It is hitting the steering rack a little. I cut a window out and will make a peice of alm plate to fill it in and have it tig welded.
The old pan only held 4 qts..
It is very snappy. I didn't think it would be this good but a good carberator makes all the difference. The drivabilty of the car is great around town. It sucks on the hwy.
But with this super victor and a larger cam, I think it is going to kill the street driving manors a little more. But well worth it to me!
The tranny has a brake in it. It leaves like a missile and hit's hard coming off the brake at 4K+ rpm's. But the car will 60' decent off the foot brake also. Just can't launch it past about 2K to 2.5K rpm's or it will push the front tires.
I managed to do a few things to the car tonight. I put the new cut pan on my mock up block and set it in the bay to make sure my cut is going to clear the rack and it does just by about 1/4". Now I can go get it welded up.
I then started on the fuel system. I moved the reg for the carb from it's previous spot to the inner side of the strut tower. Now it is directly facing the carb and I can run a line out of each side of the reg to each bowl on the carb. Make sense? I'll get pics this weekend.
I also started scoutting out were I am going to mount the other fuel pump for the n2o. From what I can tell it is going to work best by mounting it on the inner parts of the drivers side frame rail. The pump for the motor is hung on the pass side inner rail. It will tuck up out of sight in this location and will make for a very clean install.
I'm thinking about mounting the reg for this system on the front part of the drivers side strut tower. It would be the shortest distance from the reg to the fuel noid. And would look clean in this postion..
I started mounting a 6" pin on hood. I had to get this to clear the larger intake and the plate. I wanted the 5" hood at first. It slopes back more gently and looks better. The problem is I think it is not much taller were the carb will sit, then my hood. So it still could have hit, so I went with a 6".. It is starting to grow on me.
So much for the street car look.
Update, I got the motor back from the shop who did all the porting work and the guy set it all up for me.
The intake has been ported and the heads were touched up a little bit. The cam was altered a little bit, it's a 248/258 dur, .646"/.646" on a 112 lsa. With a set of pac dual valve springs and Ti retainers. Comp slid lifters with the link bar. The head gasket is .027" cometics. The cr is right at 13.2:1.
I pretty much have the whole nitrous kit wired now. I just need to get the motor back in it to wire the noids and micro switch. Then run a few more fuel lines.
My timing chain seams to be pretty loose on the slack side of the chain. Does anyone know when it is to loose or can I add a tentioner to it? The guy who put it together said to look into it. Will a ls7 tentioner work on a ls1 block?
I had a little delay with a guy getting me a engine diaper made. But I have it installed and set the motor back in it tonight.
Well I got it fired up today after a little scare over not getting the oil pressure up while cranking. I had to fire it up to get it pumping good.
I'll be hitting the road a little bit to get it sorted out over the next week or two and then it is off to the track we go.
I hope it all goes good.
I got it down off the jack stands today. I took it for a little drive and it is running like ****. I put a old set of 7's in it that were pretty gassed up. It is popping and breaking up pretty bad if I get above 3500 rpm's. I think it is really rich or really lean. And my lc-1 is acting stupid. It works fine when I reset it then about 2 minutes later it freezes up. I reset it twice and it has done this. I think it needs a new sensor. This one is 4 years old and has seen a lot or leaded race gas.
A few pics from the other day.
I've been slacking on this thread and posting pics.
I ran a PB at the Holley LS Fest. After the rain went away on Friday and they got the track ready, we hit it for a few test runs on the 275 radials. The track was great. It was cutting low 1.4's and high 1.3's.
After several 10.0x runs I turned the two step up to 4K and let it eat. It cut a 1.36 60' on it's way to a 9.98@134.
Finally! A 9 sec run on motor. I am happy with that and ready to put some spray to it. I am starting with a 100 shot to get it dialed in and get my license runs done.
I hope to be testing it next week. My goal is to have it ready to spray at the shootout..
The testing of the nitrous didn't go well. Or not at all I should say.
I have had nothing but problems with my car after the LS fest. The ignition is breaking up at 7K rpm's. I thought the problem was gone at the LS fest with it running a new pb and all. When we get back home the car starts breaking up again like last year.
I never got a chance to spray it before the shootout.
So at the shootout it was still doing it. And really running like ****. On Saturday night I finally got the idea to run a power wire from the batterystraight to the box and put a switch in between. What do yeah know it fixed it. It went 10.44 spinning like crazy. The next day I got put out in the 2nd round of the index racing. I didn't care cause I found my problem haha.
This was only after buying a new box from SCPC on site (thanks guys) and changing the coils, plug wires and plugs. I felt like a dumb ***.
It was the power going to the box the whole time. It was not getting proper voltage at 7000 rpm's and mis firing.
MSD 6010 users please take note!
I chased this problem for over a year and it was as simple as putting a new power wire to the box! Geeez. Makes me wonder why I do this ****... LOL.
So I finally got it figured out and I'm ready to spray..
First I run it on motor a few runs to make sure things are cool. And it was. Went 10.04 first pass then a 10.04 2nd pass. Then I put a set of br8efs plugs in it. It's jetted for about a 100 shot or so. I got the right range of fuel jet in it to start with. I set the fuel psi at 5.5 psi flowing through the noid and the jet being used. I pull 6 deg of timing to be safe, from 36.
I get out there and decide to activate it in second gear by way of wot switch. I left at about 3/4 throttle and then after I hit 2nd gear I put it to the floor. It came on and the tranny went ziiiinnnggg.
I got over against the wall in case it was leaking. I coasted it out for a sec and then I put it in 3rd at it finally picked up. I go drive it around the pits and it does not want to shift at all.
I get home and pull the the big lug(th400) and my buddy took it apart and said the sprag rolled the bearings. Other than that everything looked perfect. The clutches looked great but a few steel disc were glazed a little.
I ordered up the parts and it is back together now.
I started putting it in tonight. It should be finished and off the lift tomorrow night.
I hope we get a few more shots in around here before the cold sets in for the season. I want to get a few hits in the car to see how things feel like the converter and tires.
I'll be pissed if I don't get another shot after that ****!!
I got one more hit in after fixing the trans. We went to Edge water in OH on a Friday night in Nov. The dew set in on the track and it was a pedal fest. I was getting side ways at 1000'. So I parked it for the season.
I am already under way with my 2011 tear down and improvements...
The car is a a buddy's place getting Wolfe mini tubs and off set arms. Cutting the 8.8 down and putting Afco doubles and strange pro drag brakes on it. And I picked up a set of M/T ET's in 15x10 and 15x3.5. Right now it has a BFG DR 315 on it but I'm going to switch the tire after I run on it for a few times to see how it does.
I am also moving the motor back as far as it will go. It sits kinda far forward now. 56% frt/ 44% Rr. And putting a tube rear bumper with a chute mount on it. In case I need it lol. And put a automatic shifter in the car.
My goal is to make the car very consistent and safe. I plan on running more index style classes this year alone with bracket racing. And playing with the spray from time to time.
I am finally done with the license bull ****. I have a number and my dues are paid. And my car is certed to 8.50 ET. I'm ready to sit back and enjoy this next season!!
You boys better look out in true street next year at the shootout..
Once I get the car back from the chassis guy I am pulling the motor and taking it to Mike Duke Racing here in Indy. It is getting new rings and bearings. I have two seasons on the motor now and we set the rings up pretty loose when my buddy and I built it. It blows oil out like crazy. And they were cheap *** Hastings moly rings that came with the pistons. I picked them up used but never been in a motor and someone took the diamond rings out of the kit somewhere along the line..
It should be a solid 10.0 car on motor.
The new wheels and tires to replace the drag lites. It is a 325 BFG DR and ET fronts. I will have to put sportsmans on the front for TS racing. I was going to pull the BFG off there and put a 295/55 MT on it but I think I will sit tight and try the BFG's at first to see how they do for myself.. Then pull them off if I do not like them. But I want the car fitted with the widest tire it will ever have on it. Make sense?
Right on Scott. I just got it today. I am very happy to see that. The guy got some of my parts wrong on his description of the car. It has A super victor intake, a Quick Fuel carb and Kooks headers. To set the ad straight for others that read it...
Here it is scanned out of the mag.
I will as soon as I get it back. It will be sporting new wheels too. MT ET's. They are going to make the car look a little different.
Dave, I didn't know it at the time, but that front bumper you put on there came from a guy Name Tim from Zionsville, IN. Is that correct?
Turns out that I met him on a local site and we are buddies now.. He is making me a chute mount/moly rear bumper bar for my car. I don't really know how many times I will be running 150 mph but I want it on there in case I do go that fast.
I am also want to make some sort of weight hangers on the rear for each side and middle of the car so we can add weight when needed to make certain races or if the track is slick. But with a wider tire and afco doubles, I don't think I will have a problem getting the car to hook.
Some pics of the mini tub work. It is close to being done and ready for some paint. The 8.8 rear end is cut almost 3" per side. It has a 15x10 5.5 bs MT et wheels with a 325/50 tire.
There is windows put in the shock panel to get to the shock adjustment at the top of it. It will have little doors that will cover the opening. I'm not sure how this is going to work out but I like the idea.
There is a problem with mounting the strange brakes on the 8.8. It has small bearing 9" ends welded to it and moser axles. I guess this setup will not work with this axle off set. My buddy is having a set of brackets made so it will work.
The motor also got moved back 1 5/8". The cars weight bias was 56% frt/ 44% Rr. I hope this along with adding the new rear end work and weight of the bottle in the rear seat area will put the car around 45% frt/ 55% Rr.
I picked my car up today. The work looks good. Now I need to get it tore down and paint the tubs/floor and axle housing. I like the access panels he made for the shocks. It would be hard to reach the top **** to adjust it from the bottom.
The motor got moved back about 1 5/8" also.
The car currently is at 2550lbs with out me and the glass hood. And no bottle in it or pass seat. But it had 6 gl of fuel in it.
2726lbs with me in it.
A few more pics of the car now that I have it on jack stands. I pulled the radiator and exhaust off last night. I will get out there today and get the motor ready to be pulled.
We are putting new bearings and rings in it. The motor has two seasons on it. And the rings we put in it were cheap *** Hasting moly rings. And we set it up pretty loose. It has a lot of blow bye.
Here is a link to Horspwer TV. It is coverage of the Holley LS fest. There is a good clip of my car going down the track on it's way to a 10.09 pass. It is at 3:40.
Once I button up the rear of the car and get the tank back in I will work on mounting the shiftnoid electric shifter my lovely wife got me for Christmas and rpm module. And get the nos mini wired back up. I had some sort of RFI interference going on when trying to activate the juice. But with the motor off it did not do it... So I'm moving that bitch clear out of the way and making all the wires stay clear of any kind of ignition item. I think this will fix the problem.
I was going to pull the engine and put bearings and rings in it but that will have to wait til next season. I have family issues at this time that require more of my time and I went through my budget for the season already lol. Like every year. Oh well. I think the motor will be fine for another year. I just wanted added piece of mind. It is going to see a **** ton of bottles once I get going on the juice lol.
The 8.8" rear end has been great so far. Taking almost 3" off each side will help some. But the only thing I wish I would have done was the sos axle housing brace. It is a simple setup using a short tube with rod ends on both ends. One end mounts to the pinion area of the housing. It has wide wings made into the casting and it is pretty thick here. In fact. My housing has holes already drilled here were it might of had them at one point maybe.
The other end of the rod goes to a set of tabs welded to the front side of the axle tube. Then line up the holes and drop bolts in them. Easy on, easy off..
I can always go back and put one on next year. But if it lives through this year it should be good. It is going to get pounded with the spray once I get a grip on the tune up. I'm hoping for mid to high 1.2 60'.
I have been fitting the rear seat panels to the newly fattened wheel tubs. I had to cut into the rear back wall piece. And the arch of the side's do not match the wolf tubs. I got the back wall and bottom piece fitting decent but I will have to modify the side pieces that cover what little bit you can see of the wheel tubs.
I fixed a leaky fitting on the catch can.
I finished up the fuel lines at the tank and pumps. And got the lines secured.
I got screwed on the drive shaft. The guy cut it and it is about 1/2" to long. It will have to be cut again.
I put the headers and starter and diaper back on. The motor is ready for the intake and hook the fuel and nitrous back up.
Guys, I'm trying to decide what to do about my cooling problem...
I have a stock F body radiator with two perma cool fans and not shroud or air dam. The fans pull air really good. Some times it does great just driving around my area. But in heavy traffic on a really hot day it will get really hot.
It got super hot on the true street drive in BG KY.
I did block off the air around the rad. But I have been told that the air dam will fix this problem. And someone else said to get a lt1 radiator. Said it had more capacity.
Or should I look at getting one made? I can get one made for about $250. I can also buy a aftermarket lt1 for about $130 new.
Or try a air dam for about $25?
I started fitting the rear seat delete panels back in the car. I had to cut inward about 2" per side to get it to fit in between the wheel wells. I had to cut the bottom piece also. The wheel arch pieces will not work at all. Scott rod fab is making me new ones.
I had a rear package tray made to get rid of the carpet panel. I got it fitted and in place also.
Well here is a up dated picture of what the car looks like now after the new wheels/tires and mini tub work.
I also put decals on for my business. I do collision repair and just about any kind of body/paint work you could think of.
I hope the car works really well with the improved rear suspension. It would cut 1.36-1.41 60'. I will be very pleased if I can get 1.33-1.34 out of it. Anything more than that would be like Christmas lol.
I got the mustang out yesterday and put about 10 miles on it. It all feels ok. The bias ply tires on the front feel weird. I'm not use to how that feels. But the 325 dr's feel real good on the back. It hooks up a lot easier than before when I had the 275's.
It pulls really hard on the street. I didn't take it up real high in rpm's cause we need to set the valve lash again but it feels good.
I want to get an alignment before going to the track. And adjust the valves. I also need to wire the shiftnoid and hook the nitrous back up.
I hope to hit the track next week or so if the rain will let up.
So as some of you know, I sold my 2000 ss a few months ago. I didn't really drive it much the last few years so I decided to let it go. Well in the mean time I started looking at old school rides and rat rods. I really dig the old stuff.
I found a 57 belair 4 dr sedan on cl near Lexington, KY. It has a 283 ci with a old cast iron power glide. Manual stearing and brakes. Drums all the way around lol. It is in great shape. A old fella owned it and he passed away recently. The family was selling two of his old cars. This and a 1950 olds "88". The guy said his father drove this car all the time and said it was the best driving car out of the 4 he owned.
My plan is to drive it like it is and not put to much into it or get carried away with the paint job. It could use some chrome work re done and the paint needs a little help but hey it is a driver.
I welded some large U bolts in the floor behind the rear seat. So down in the crack of the seat you can hook onto the for my daughters car seat. I put the car seat in there tonight and we went to the local cruise in spot. Then to Texas road house for dinner. We had a blast in it tonight. My daughter loves the car..
And NO, it is not getting a ls1.
I went to IRP last night for some test hits. It was good and bad.
The car started off on the first run doing the dredded breaking up problem down track. So we changed the plugs to a hotter set and I moved some wires near the ignition box when I wired the shifter, so I moved them back and went up for another hit.
I left on the brake at 3000rpm's and it cut a 1.39 60' and and I noticed right away it cleared up so I put the pedal all the way down from about 3/4 on the launch. I was not sure if the shift noid was going to do it's job and I got ancy and pulled it back some were around 7000rpm's and the dam thing went right into 3rd gear and totally missed 2nd gear.
I rode it out to a 10.21@133.
I was so happy, I hot lapped it and it ran good but the 60' fell it 1.4x and went 10.3xx. Then I hot lapped it again and it fell to 1.5x and spun hard.
After that I knew to give it a break and check things over. And I'm glad I did. When I took the hood off I noticed a lot of oil around the rear of the motor. It was dripping off on the ground at the back. Turns out the -10AN breath tube that goes to the valley cover was coming loose. The bulk head nut on the bottom was coming off. I could lift up on it and tell that it was still holding it in there but was starting to un screw.
That would be ugly if that happened. So I put it up. I was happy to know the car went straight and ran pretty good.
And on the last run, I set the shifter to 6200rpm's and let it shift with out freaking out about it not working lol, and it worked great. I was ready to go back and crank it up to about 7200rpm's.
I hope to get in one more test before my first race of the year. Which is next Friday night. Lucas Oil Raceway at Indianapolis presents "Friday Night Rage". I am running a 10.0 index class. I hope this series does well. I like new things lol.
Once I learn to trust the car and let it do it's thing I can focus on the shock settings and tire pressure to try and get the 60' down a little more. I may even need to try a different converter. I have had this same converter for three years now. It flashes in my car to 5000 rpms.
I also want to put some weight back in it were I want it. In the back lol. My car was 56% frt and 44% rear bias. I would like to get it 50/50 and see how it acts. I want it to hook on any track, all the time..
At some point soon the BFG's will come off in favor of some Hoosier or MT dr's. I just want to give them a fair shake and see how a 325 tire feels on the track.
Your related to those people? The driver was a young guy and there was an old fella about 65ish that looked to be the captain of the team lol.
They seemed cool.
I had bad results at that race. I broke the sprag in the trans earlier in the day during tnt. It would not go into second gear at all. So I raced it going from 1st to 3rd. My qualifying runs were 10.27 and 10.19 shifting it like this. I ran the 10.0 index.
I got put out in the first round sleeping at the light. .228 rt. I ran 10.33 to the other guys 10.40. Those .400 pro tree lights are no joke. I cutting good lights on a .500 tree but this .400 **** is crazy. A guy almost needs a trans with a pro brake to release quicker than a normal trans brake like a tci.
I will pull the trans this week and get my buddy to look at it. He thinks the sprag broke again. He said that going from 1st to 3rd like I did last week killed it. I didn't mean to. But I manually shifted the car last week and it will easily go from 1st to 3rd due to modding the shifter for the shift noid. I got over excited and pulled it back into 3rd gear.
My buddy says that is really hard on the sprag doing that.
I got my th400 back today. It needed high gear clutches and steels and a new drum and sprag. And the usual gaskets and locking ring for the sprag.
The guy who rebuilt it said it appears to have been to tight from the get go. It had .009" in the disc's and it should be around .040"-.050" so it does not drag. He thinks it should 60' better and react quicker now.
We'll see. I should have it back in by next weekend. That is if I can catch a break at work. We are really busy at the shop right now.
LOL, I got my car back up and running. It shifts great and the brake releases fine. I have a set of 325 Hoosier DR's going on tomorrow and I'm off to the track on Friday to IRP. It is round two of there Friday night Rage event. I hope it all goes good.
I got some cool new pics from a car show. I will post soon.
I went to this car show on Saturday and they were waiting for someone to pull up and do a burn out. I got the party started lol.
The car is working really good with the trans fixed and the new 325/50 Hoosier drag radials. I went to IRP Friday and the car was working good. 1.37-1.42 60' and was running 10.01-10.10 @ 133 mph. I was #1 qualifier with a 10.012 in 10.0 index. On the first run the trans break failed to work causing me to jump out of the beams. I was really pissed.
The next day I went to Muncie drag way to find the problem. We found it after the first run and got it fixed right away.
I lined up for the first timed run and cut a .007 rt and it went 1.39 60' and 6.39@106. The trans break was fixed. So the next run I went red at .151 and cut a 1.34 60' and email@example.com.
So I dial in at 6.39 and waited for elims. The air started to cool off as the rain was about to set in for the night.
First round, I went red at -.007 rt and cut a 1.319 60' and went firstname.lastname@example.org on the brakes.
I bout **** myself when I seen the slip. 1.319 60' is killer. I have not even began to tweak the shocks. Only the tires. They like about 14-16 psi. The real factor is the tires and once they were hooking I kept turning it up. I'm leaving at 4300 rpm's off the brake. I think it can do a little better with some fine tuning. This is N/A if some of you are wondering.
I need more practice at bracket racing. I was focused on cutting good lights at the index racing. It was a .400 pro tree. I had it going good. I cut a .029-.100 rt. Several .040-.066 rt's. I got that figured out. I guess it will come with time..
I have been out racing in the Lucas Oil, Friday Night Rage events here in Indy, in the 10.0 index class. They hold these races once a month.
The first one I got smoked on the tree every time. The second one I had the car dialed in and was the #1 qualifier with a 10.012 and in the first round the trans brake failed to work. It cost me the race.
So this past Friday I get dialed in with a 10.02 and was #2 or #3 qualifier and I made it through 3 rounds to the semi-finals before getting beat with a 10.009 to a 10.004. I had the guy on the light by a few thousand's and on the 60' but he pulled up on me about 1/8 and I thought we were gonna bust. I ran a 9.97 earlier. It was so close I couldn't tell who won til I seen the win light.
I was happy to make it that far..
The next day I load up and go to No Limit Raceway for there Ultimate Shootout. Another 10.0 index race on a .400 pro tree. It blew the tires off it on the first two passes. I took a few psi out of it and took 300 rpm's out of the two step(4000). It went 9.98 on a 1.34 60'.
Next pass went 10.008@133 on a 1.41 60'. That put me #2 on the qualifying list.
1st rd a guy broke and I got a free-b, I went 10.14 lifting early.
2nd rd caught a guy sleeping on the light and went 10.014@133 on a 1.43 60'.
3rd rd was my bye run. I used it to test the left lane out cause no one wanted it. So I knew if I didn't get choice that I would be in that lane. So I tested it out. 9.99@133 on a 1.42 60'.
4th rd, it was semi-finals, I got this old fella in a 66 deuce slow playing my ***. He got lane choice and as I said, he put me in the left lane. He say's were did you qualify, I told him #2. He said oh' take it easy on me lol lol. I have not been up here in a while. He smoked my *** on the tree by a tenth. I went 10.06@131 to his 10.10@123 lifting cause he had me by a half a car.
So I went from not making it a round to two semi finals back to back. I am heading in the right direction now! Bout dam time....
I will post a few pics I took at the No Limit race.
I have been bad about trying to get video. I will get some up soon.
It looks like the rear tires needed more air. I lowered them to 12 psi in an attempt to get it to hook. The track was 140 degree's.
The first pass after setting the tires to 12 psi it cut a 1.34 60'. So it is work good but the tires do not look right or safe in this picture.
I got my car out a few weeks ago and knocked the dust off of it. I fired it up and drove it about 5 miles then put it up.
I think all I need to do is change the oil and get some fresh gas. I will put it on the lift and look everything over closely. Making sure everything is tight.
I am going to have a guy I know wire up the nos mini for me. This guy is really good at wiring and I am not lol. I'm looking forward to getting some bottle time on the dyno. I want to get the car really close before blasting it down the track.
My car still has the decals for the LSX shootout on it. I will get those off in the next few weeks and get the ins put back on the car for street driving.
Well I figured it was time for an up date.
I am trying to get the car dialed in on the nitrous. I have a zex plate under the carb with Edlebrock noids and a nano bottle on the tank. I am using a nos mini controller for big shots.
I am going to stay with a smallish shot until I get a handle on the tune..
This motor is going on 4 years old now and runs as strong as day one. I just change the oil and race the hell out of it. I am very impressed for a garage built motor. Now it is time to see what it will really do....
Here is a video of the first outing on the spray. I am going to keep at the tuning until we have solid results and a safe tune and then start to turn it up.
It went 9.24@141 at the end of the night with the 58 N jet.
This is the only good video I got all night.
Well guys after 4 years my 383ci motor finally spun a bearing. It is knocking pretty good. It happened at the Holley LS Fest on the last day. It was the first round of the index and I won it and pulled off the return road with the motor chattering pretty bad. It is done for now.
I pulled the motor today and taking it to my motor guy here in Indy. Mike Duke Racing. He is going to over haul the motor with the new bearings and hell fire rings I picked up at the LS Fest. I also picked up a Moroso vac pump from Carlyle and a set of 325/50/15 MT DR's as my Hoosiers at hit bad.
I hope to have the motor back in and ready for the LSX shootout. It will no doubt be a little faster now that it will be tight and assembled by a real engine builder rather than a body guy and a very skilled service tech. I couldn't of done it with out my buddy Chris's help with the first motor build.
4 years and a best of 1.30 60', 9.80 et on motor and 9.08@142 on the bottle at the LS Fest the day before it let go. I am extremely proud of how this 97 alm block motor has lasted. I'll bet it has about 700 passes on this bottom end.
I can only hope this rebuild will net a tenth in et by being tighter and fresh.
The plan is a this point in time, to do new main and rod bearings, 3.905 Hell Fire ring set filed to the motor guys desire, possible cam shaft alteration to existing cam which is a 248/258 .651"/.650" 112+2, check the heads out for any needed service. They have PAC springs on them right now. The motor will get a Moroso vac pump this time around also.
I think I was experiencing some voltage drop on the nitrous. The car acted funny and did not want to pull the shifter into third gear at 7K rpm's. It was like it could not pull the noid which requires a lot of power to pull. I need to figure that out. I don't know if I need a bigger alt or a larger power wire. It only happen when the spray is on.
I will post up some video from the LS Fest. We had a blast.
A few weeks ago at my home track.
9.24 n20 pass
Here are some pics I scanned from the LS Fest. I purchased an acrylic stand up picture on a base that is cool as hell. I tried to scan it but it looks silly like this.
The best one or at least the one I like.
A license plate my wife had made.
This is the run my car spun the bearing on. So it's last pass on that motor.
A cool pic but it is a copy of a copy. I need to scan the original my mother has.
This is a scan of this cool acrylic stand up pic that is cropped and sits on a stand. It looks really cool besides the car in the other lane... The guy was supposed to crop out the other car. I might have someone cut it with a scroll saw.
And here it is as of last Friday...
Well the motor guy called me yesterday and reported that I need two rods, the crank needs turned, ball hone the block, larger bearings, new rings, new timing set, new oil pump and the normal over haul supplies for the motor.
He said it looks like the bottom of the bell came off the oil pick up tube and it starved it for oil. It is a stock pick up tube. I dunno how it came off other than tons of vibration from the 700 or so passes on that motor.
I am going over there to pick up the crank and take it to a guy to turn it down. I will try to get pics while I'm there.
This gonna cost more than I thought as it normally does.... But it is either that or throw together a 100K+ miles stock short block together that I have and stuff it in there that I have. This would cost a little bit also. It would need a diff cam and some other things.
I got the mickey 325/50/15's mounted yesterday. I dunno if I will like these as much as the Hoosiers.
The Hoosiers seem to have a softer side wall, a large deep trench of rubber where the tire bead meets the rim, and a squared profile on the surface. It may be cause they are bald as **** lol.
The Mickey's seem to have a stiffer side wall, a normal bead like any ol radial has, and a rounded profile. Maybe they will be squared one they wear down. I dunno. But the old 275 Mickey's I had on 8" wheels worked good once they got some wear on them.
I hope I don't have to wait for them to come in to there "zone". My first race back together may be the LSX shootout. If this is the case I will be doing "John Force burn outs" at the line lol.
I hope these tires do not spin on the rim much. I will not put screws in these rims. I hate that. I would rather find bead locks.
I will post pics of the Mickey's on the car soon.
My motor is done. Yeah buddy..
The crank was bent .007", they had to shave .020" off the rod journal and .010" off the mains. **** is custom now lol.
It starved for oil when the pick up tube lost the bell on the bottom of it due to a strap breaking on the tube holding it to the motor. It is all welded up now. It will not happen again.
It will be a mad dash to get it back in and ready for some test hits after an extremely short break in..
I have a vac pump to get mounted and plumbed. Then a few other odds and ins and it will be ready for the shootout...
Probably a good idea at this point. But I'm broke for now. This put a dent in my sock lol. There is a lot more I want to do but money is the big factor right now.
Future plans are a motor plate/mid plate, new Strange front brakes and new front struts and get the laundry put on the back..
I will keep this 383 nitrous motor in it for a while. A long while unless it blows up.
If it does as good as the last rip (3.5 years) then I'm good. It is a deadly consistent 10.0 index car. And I plan on kicking some azz in Rumble this year.
I worked on the motor a bit tonight. I got a guy machining a adapter plate for the drive mandrel I got from Moroso that does not fit my balancer. I figured out how to mount the vac pump but I need a few fittings and the stuff back from my buddy to get it all together.
It should be running by this weekend. I hope to get a few street miles on it and try to get one test session if the weather gods bless us with good weather.
Well now that the shootout is over I have time to post a few things. It was a mad dash to finish the car up for the race but we got it all done and made it. Not with out a few problems of course.
The Moroso vac pump was a bitch to get mounted and hooked up. It was one thing after another. pos. It works now and pulls about 13" at wot.
We left the baby jet's in the nitrous plate since the motor was new I did not want to get carried away. And I knew it would go 9.0's easy with this 67n jet. The car was right were it left off before the spun bearing.
It cut a new pb 60' with a 1.260 on the first true street pass. It went 9.089, 9.064 and a 9.146 on the third run. And that was good enough for third in the 9.0 index lol.
Then in Rumble I won the first round and went out in the second getting beat at the light. It was late and I was ready for bed. I was almost happy to be done at that point in the morning..
I'm not totally sure what winter mods I will do but I want to put strange front brakes on and get new front struts. My strange front shocks are in need of replacement. I might do a motor plate also.
Next year it will be in the 8's for sure. I might even step up to real street for 2013. But they will be in the 8.20-8.40's next year lol.
Well This Saturdays race got canceled due to a div 3 race that got rained out the week before. They need the track this weekend.
I got the chassis cert today. And cleaned the car up this evening and put a few miles on it. It felt good to go. I got a month left of my belts so I took the pass belt out and mailed it in to Racers Choice Inc to get recert.
I would like to get this parachute mount put on and buy all the **** needed for that. I plan to push the car to the 8.50 et cert that it has at this years LS Fest and shootout.
The future mods include front Strange brakes and put my motor on a plate. Maybe next winter lol.
My motor is fresh and ready for some "live action"!
Dave here is a few video's. The night video was testing last year after putting motor together. The track was perfect and great October air.
The day video is from last Friday at Muncie dragway. The track was very slick and it would not cut a 60' for nothing. I was turning the nitrous on 2-4 sec off the line cause it was slick.
If you can't tell, my shifter noid is not pulling third gear. It looks like it's low on voltage and can not pull it back.
I think I need to take the power from the relay and hook it to straight to the battery.
I picked these wheels up from a local buddy in town. The bs is .75" out further then my normal wheels. They fit fine with this little 26x8.5" outlaw slick. But when I put a 28x10.5 or larger tire it might hit the quarter panel. And I plan on putting a larger tire on it if I keep these wheels.
Here is how it looks now. These are 15x10 with 3.75" bs. My normal wheels are 15x10 with 4.5" bs. You guys think it will work?
Next to a 275 pro on my 4.5" bs wheel.
So some of you know I crash at the LS Fest. For the ones who don't know, I think my car over heated and pushed water out of the over flow or water pump wheep hole and the car went hard right spinning out of control at around the 1000' at about 135 mph..
Here is the end result.
The right frame rail is mashed back a few inches on the right side. It will get cut off after pulling a little.
Well I got to work on it today for about six hours. I picked up two decent fendes from a buddy for free and I went to "pull-a-part" and picked up a front bumper cover that was in ok shape for a 89 mustang.
Another guy I know does fab work on mustang and he made me a trick power radiator support and new tubular front bumper bar all out of chromoly.
I picked up a nice All Star chevy universal radiator that fit like it was made for this car. I am moving the over flow tank to the trunk and running a 3/8" hose from the rad to the trunk, behind the tire. Just in case.
Well I am just about done with the repairs. It looks great. I'm buffing the hood today.
I drove the car last night and put about 25 miles on it and the temp is right around 200 degrees. If I sit still for a long time it will creep up to about 210. I only have one small 12" perma cool fan on it. There is not enough room for both. I got the new Meziere water pump motor on it also.
Now the starter is starting to act up. I need to get one asap next week.
The car drives perfectly fine. I'm happy.
The Shootout was a roller coaster ride of events for me.
It started off with my fuel guy putting methanol in my fuel can and I could not figure out why it was running all crazy.
Got that handled and my father left two plug wires off and that took a hour to find cause they were slid on but not snapped.
Then the car ran great. I made a motor pass and it went 9.86.
The next day was true street and we did good on the drive. No issues. The first pass was 9.04@150 on the spray(.082 jet) the next was 8.97@150.
On the return road while waiting to make the third pass I was messin with the trans brake the wires to the brake shorted out against a metal plate I had them run under. The car about caught fire from the deal. It was not pretty.
This put me out of the race. And I had a 9.01 avg at that point!
I was pissed. But that's racing.
Well my car is just sittin pretty in my garage just beggin for me to start on the winter maintenance. My work is slow so I can't afford to buy new parts yet but there is lots of cleaning and servicing I want to do. And the wiring problem on the trans break needs redone.
The upgrades I want to do are Strange front brakes and new Afco double adjustable front struts.
My goals for this year are as close to 8.50 as she will go and 155 mph plus.
Well I finally got the mustang on jack stands and planning what is going to get done first. And that has come down to what is the cheapest to do right now. Being that it is only a few days after Christmas and that breaks me for a min lol.
Here is what I'm planning now! And the list has grown since last month.
1. put my motor on a front/mid plate.
2. strange front brakes. My stock sn95 calipers drag.
3. New front struts. Maybe the new double adj afco struts custom setup by Menser Motorsports.
4. fix wiring issue for trans brake and auto shifter.
5. stripped and re cote Kooks headers. They look really bad now after 4 years.
6. need a new set of 275 radial pro's.
7. possible gear change to a 3.73 from 4.10.
I think these items will help make the car safer, be consistent and look good!!
I hope to push this to 8.50 this next season.
Some pics with a 15x10 Cap 5 DBL and a 28x12.5 ET street.
Strange shocks off the car and found one was bent. And the fluid leaked out around the ****.
Got one piece ebay head lights and smoked them.
I got new front brakes and shocks ordered and Race Craft motor plates on the way. I will post up as I make progress.
I also decided to rewire all the nitrous kit with a slick relay board from leashelectronics.com It should clean up some wiring I'm not happy with and make for a fool proof fast installation.
Man, I got more excuses than a women right now. We just got back from the power tour in my 57 belair. So we have been focused on that for the last month. My shop is blessed with tons of work right now. And weekly yard work. Not to mention my wonderful 6 year old daughter who I try to give up hours here and there to spend time with while it is summer time.
So what I'm really trying to say is I have not touched the mustang in like 3 months lol. It is seriously one thing after another..
Now that the power tour is over I am going to try to get serious about getting it back together.
I am only planning on running three races this year. Norwalk, Bowling Green and Indy. And maybe some smaller races in between those dates. I'm laying low a bit this season. So much going on right now.
Charlie, I'm sure you are starting to feel what I'm saying about the daughter part. lol.
Sad day for me guys. I sold this car as a roller to a guy in Las Vegas. The car ships out in the next few days.
I'm going to get into soming else for a while. Maybe an old truck with a turbo motor or something cool like that. Hell I'm loble to put a turbo 5.3 in my 57 belair 4 door with white walls lol.
We as in family are wanting to do more camping and traveling so we picked up a sweet travel trailer. So now in BG KY I will be staying at the campground and spectating. It's kinda fun to not have the pressure of running a car all weekend. I can goof off and screw with people more lol.
I will be back into another project vehicle soon with a LS based motor I'm sure.
But I felt it was time to give drag racing a break for a few years. Next time I will be back in a GM bodied vehicle to not limit what classes I can run it.
I will be posting the rest of my setup for sale in a few days when the car is gone. I have some nice items to sale if people are looking.
Thanks for everyone's help along the way!
The car made it to the new owner just fine.
Hello new toy! 1959 Chevy Apache 3100.