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4 minute read
98+ Ranger Front Rotor Replacement
Compliments of Red_Ak_Ranger @ ranger-forums.com
Mod: 98+ Ranger Brake Rotor/Pads Replacement
Difficulty: 3/10 (Follow the pictures, simple to do)
Time: half hour per side first time
-Size 13 and 15 mm Wrenches. As long as possible for the 15 mm wrench.
-2 shiney new rotors
-2 new brake pads (I myself didn't replace pads)
-Impact gun for lugnuts
-Truckjack (I used a rolling type, not a bottle jack)
-BFCC (Big ****ing C-Clamp)
-Small piece of wood
-Use Impact gun to remove lug nuts from wheel then place wheel and nuts to side.
-Remove two bolts from top back side and bottom back side of brake caliper. They are relatively easy to remove with the 13 mm wrench.
-After removing two bolts from caliper, pull it off by pushing it out slowly front and bottom because it is fit tightly on. Take 2 feet of wire or rope and tie up the caliper to the upper control arm so the brake fluid line doesn't get damaged.
-Remove two brake pads, they slide into the metal perched in a C-shape around the rotor(easy to notice) and they come out very easily.
-Remove the C-shaped metal over the rotor by the two bolts located on the backside with the 15 mm wrench. Both of these bolts are VERY VERY tight. Don't get a hernia getting them out! It took me literally all the strength i could muster to get these out. They are threadlocked in also.
-Once you remove the C-shaped metal you can put that to the side. Then slide off the rotor and you have removed all the brake components. If the rotor is stuck on for some reason(as my right side was) then turn the rotor in little bits and strike the back side with a hammer to knock it loose.
-Put new rotor on and then put C-shaped metal back over the rotor. Bolt it in. You may have trouble lining up the bolts with the metal because the rotor doesnt sit flush to the hub without pressure pushing it in. Also, these bolts need to be threadlocked. When you pull them out you'll notice where the threadlocker was applied on them, apply in same place.
-Slide new brakepads into their slots on the C-shaped metal piece.
-Take the BFCC(Big ****in C clamp!) and place a piece of wood over the caliper pistons in the caliper(the part hanging by wire/rope). Tighten the C-clamp to push the wood, thereby pushing in the caliper pistons. This is so that the caliper will fit back over the new rotors/pads.
-Put the caliper into the C-shaped metal and put the two bolts in their holes with the 13 mm wrench. You'll notice the calipers have a funny lil "boot" that the bolts go through. PUsh that boot forward because it is rectangular shaped and when you bolt it in it will push against the side of the caliper, allowing the bolt to thread in.
-Put wheel on truck, thread bolts on. Tighten. New brakes!