Accord325 Dyno Progress and Build
Compliments of Accord325 @ www.v6performance.net
I decided to get a base Dyno being I have incoming parts (Pauls DTB IM, Ported Runner, 5" SRI) and truly wanted to show the gains attributed to them.
Well I went and got one today and was shocked by the numbers.... and not in a good way. I'll let the chart speak for itself.
DYNO COMPARISON POST #120
Engine Mods when Dyoned
- Stock Dia. Light weight Pulley
- Cheap Autozone 3" Sri w/Spectre Cone
- Full size (1.6") IM spacer w/thermal gasket
- TB spacer w/dual thermal gaskets
- TB coolant bypass
- xlr8 J-Pipe
- New Clutch and Fly just put in (4 days ago, doesn't really count but is critical to performance).
Current Mods - Updated 9/9/14 (First Mod on 5/1/12, Autozone SRI, lol, after that I was Hooked!!)
- DTB IM
- Dual 3" intake to single 5" w/8" K&N Cone
- 3.7 Heads (decked for compression, ported, valve job)
- 3.7 Ported Runners
- 08' RL Cams
- TL-S valve springs
- Hondata Flash Pro (TL ECU, Adapter Harness)
- Zex 100 shot Wet Kit, Remote Bottle opener, Bottle pressure gauage, bottle heater
- UD Lightweight Pulley
- 3" Velocity Stack
- RV6 V3 PCD's (ceramic coated)
- XLR8 V2 J-Pipe
- 2.5" Tsudo Cat back Exhaust (Tsudo and Vibrant Resonators)
- TB Coolant bypass
- P2R IM Thermal Gasket
- Invovative 75a Motor mounts
- Amsoil Sycormesh Transfluid
- Oil Catch Can, with inline filter
- 20 way adjustable coilovers
- Rota Torques - 17x9
- Federal Evo's 235-45 - Mickey Thompsons Street Comps 235-45
- Comptech Short Shifter
- TLS 20mm rear sway bar
- Corsport Aluminum Shifter Cable Bushings
- Ingalls Rear Camber Kit
- Cross Drilled Slotted Rotors, Zinc platted
- Glowshift Tach light
- TL Trans Mount, poly filled
- LCA, poly filled
- AEM UEGO WIDEBAND
- Hydro dipped Carbon Fiber GPS in dash piece (custom)
- Hydro dipped cluster bezel
Pure Aesthetic mods
- Black Housing Headlights
- 8k HIDs
- Carbon Fiber Shifter
- Cheap Stick on front lip
- Honda Carbon Fiber Rear Emblem
- V6 Badge- Relocated to front Right corner of hood
- 03-05 Asain Grill (Modded to fit coupe)
- 03-05 Aftermarket front lip
- custom 7.5 Gen Trunk spoiler
Hot as Hell (see chart), heat soaked from driving 50 miles and guy letting the engine run for 15+min while talking to other people , have ****ty Bosch Platinum Plugs in currently (dumb, I know, they will be gone soon). It's seem that there was a slight drop off when Vtec engaged, yes ? The Curve also looks to drop off early around 6,200 rpm
CURRENT NUMBERS N/A = 270.57whp/2xx.xxwtq
I agree that the clutch shouldn't be beat on this early. I have 350 miles since the Clutch change and did 3 pulls...that's it.
Everyone was reading low. It was almost 100 degrees out. My friends Acura CL-S dynoed at 268 hp a week earlier and only got 254 hp today. He also just added the 3.7 IM , he definitely should of seen some gain from that. They were reading low all across the board I was still hoping for more. Shouldn't be a huge issue but I need an oil change also.
HEAVILY MODDED RSX pulled 445 hp and 420 tq !!!!!! Thing was screaming. I think he had a 72mm or 75 mm Turbo on it. I'll post vid. later.
Here are some photos and vids. of the Dyno. Enjoy Photos
Sick RSX Dynoed 445hp, 400 Tq
http://http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/accord325/media/IMG_0738_zpscdd6ac27.jpg.html?sort=3&o=9Couple Cars at the Beginning, more showed
http://http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/accord325/media/IMG_0736_zps1e63557e.jpg.html?sort=3&o=11S2K - Also Dynoed 214 hp, torque was 140 ish
My Accord - 214 hp , 188 tq
http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/ac...tml?sort=3&o=2Friend CL-S 254 hp (Dynoed 265hp a week ago and also added 3.7 IM since then)
http://http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/accord325/media/IMG_0741_zps0d66454a.mp4.html?sort=3&o=4S2K - Dyno
IMG_0739_zps43e888d9.mp4 Video by accord325 | PhotobucketAnother S2K, Turbo 8lbs of boost
http://http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/accord325/media/IMG_0743_zps7cddd8c9.mp4.html?sort=3&o=0IMG_0745_zps1af48222.mp4 Video by accord325 | Photobucket
New Tsudo 2.5" Catback just installed. One flange didn't match up so it had to be cut, turned and re-welded. Sounds great. A little drone but we will see what happens.
Here's a quick update !! The SRI looks different then others I have seen, also wish the welds were smoothed out. Not sure whats going on there. Over all, Paul does great work!
Sorry photos got jammed up for a sec. Just to clarify, I took measurements of all openings and they were the same, as applicable to it's part. That's why there is only one photo per opening.
RUNNERS - HEAD SIDE Horizontal
RUNNERS HEAD SIDE - VERTICAL
RUNNERS IM SIDE
I'll make it work, always do. I was going to go with a shorter one but wanted as much air as possible to be pulling in.
Take a look at this link (post #15 is the best shot). This is how I thought, and wanted the intake to be. Like a long SRI tucking behind the battery. I have air slots notched out in the fog light area, and will be putting in one of those carbon fiber air scoops. The long SRI would have been perfect. I'll see how this one fits. You will see a big difference bet tween these intakes. My intakes 3" piping is extended way out, while a whole lot less 5" pipe was used.
http://www.v6performance.net/forums/...tall-dyno.htmlOh and got (4) plugs in, waiting on the last (2). Parts will be installed this weekend and hopefully Dyno the following weekend.
It definitely runs cooler then the Stock IM. I know because I installed it today. Warning... This post may get long.
Install - The Runners were a bit$% to get off for some reason, went on fine. While I was taking the runners off one fell and it the Sensor that goes into the Block, directly underneath the Runners. WHAT IS THAT SENSOR CALLED ?ummm..because it broke.
After all was said and done it looked amazing.
Test Drive - Started the car and the Idle jumped to 2k and sat there, did not come down. The CE light was on and I said ohhh $hit and shut the car off. Looked under the hood and forgot to plug the TPS into the TB. Okay did that, started the car up and it hit 2k and dropped immediately to 700-800 rpm, NICE!!!
Lets Drive - Idle surge was immediate but nothing bad. I would throw it in neutral and it would rev up to 2-2.3k then drop to 1k, every time it would do this 3 times then drop to normal idle. After about 30mile the CE light came on. Still running the same. That was the extent of my 50mile test drive.
Test Drive 2 - CE light still on, tried WOT twice both while rolling in 3rd. Throttle response is amazing before 50% throttle, then it goes to hell. Sluuuugggish beyond 50%. With the CE light still on my mind I said this is enough and went to get the code ran. Well, I had 16 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Misfire all 6 Cylinder (that's 6 of 16 and some repeated), knock sensor (forgot what he said about it), the other were ABS (low fluid,which is full) and ABS sensor. Ohhh brother. Started the car for the guy, it hit 2k rpm then dropped to normal ideal. Just listening to the engine we both came to the same conclusion that the engine didn't sound good, its sound healthy and great! With that thought on my mind the spark plugs came up. They are NGK Iridium that is OE and all were inspected before installation. Then it lead me back to the broken sensor...????
Test Drive 3 - Pull out of AutoZone and all is the same... Or is it. I reset the ECU at Autozone and now the car when thrown into neutral wont spike the RPM but now holds it at 2k until I come to a complete stop. Shift between gears suck, if I shift at 3k it holds it there and I can feel my clutch complaining. Now there is just no drop in RPM between gears.
This is where I am. I hope you guys can lend some knowledge as to what can be done or what you think it is. And to clarify, I am not saying these parts are defective or broken, just not working right currently. If the car was running as it did the first drive, I would be happy as hell. I hope Paul will chime in here.
Okay, please pardon my ignorance in post #55. I have replaced the knock sensor and all seems okay, no CEL after 75mile.
My ECU seems to be learning at a decent speed. It still gets the idle surge when putting it in neutral from 1st-4th gear. It has seemed to learned Not to do it when coming out of 5-6th gear.
Performance- throttle response is beautiful, absolutely amazing. It's 65 degree out and the car loves cooler weather but Torque seems even better then having the full size MDX spacer on the car. Even only after 75 miles driven after resetting the ECU the car runs through the RPM's so well. Just runs right through them.
I'm excited to see how the car operates after 300+miles !! Flash Pro will set this thing off
I've seen a lot of people complain about the P2R IM thermal gasket so I though I would share what condition mine was in after 16k miles. Looks fine to me.
Okay, in an effort to be a productive member and give back to a community that has given so much to me, I have decide to do a quick write up of how to modify your stock TB into being the Master TB for DTB IM. I will not cover the installation being it is pretty simple and you are basically swapping TB's.
Tool - Dremel and a cutting bit
Step 1 - There is a Brass cap that is on the front side(when mounted to the car) of the stock throttle body. You will need to drill out a little hole in the center just enough to break through. Take your time, it's not that thick, maybe 3mm. You dont not want to break through and damage the internals. From there you will be able to see the mounting point for the connector rod/shafts that make the 2 TB work in conjunction, it looks like the end of a screw where a flat head screw drivewould go into
Step 2 - When I say 3mm Cap, it's all one piece but 3mm is like a lip. Best way to describe it is that it's like the top of plastic water bottle caps , turn it on its side and that's how you are looking at the brass cap. Sill imagining the bottle cap on it's side, the thicker part would be the side walls where threads would be around, but the sides are thicker then the top. Hope that wasn't confusing.
Carefully continue to remove the 3mm brass cap material, while working your way out. The 3mm cap will eventually run out and expose a thicker outside layer of the brass cap, that is where you would stop drilling and it will become flush.
FINAL LOOK WHEN FLUSH
Step 3 - Mount the bad boy. This is done by removing the two TB's, pulling them apart and inserting the connecting shaft (attached to the slave TB) into the flat head screwdriver style slot on the master TB, and then mount them both.
My old SRI wasn't moving on my F/S thread (didn't expect it to) so I decide to re-purpose it into a velocity stack. Tested it with a fan in front and it definitely works. When you take the Stock air box out there is a open screw hole, I used a bracket that came with the SRI to attach it to the cars frame. It is solid as hell. I'm not sure if I will put the fog light cover back on or not cuz it pulls more air without it. Not the most pretty thing in the world (off the car) but looks great installed and a lot cleaner with the cover on. Here's a look.
^ Appreciate it. Not trying to get my hopes up to high. I'll be going to an indoor dyno (Still a Dynojet) this time and the temp will be much lower (70ish compared to 98 last time. It does call for rain tomorrow so not sure how the track will go. I'll still make the 45min trip, I just love driving this car, LOL!
Any guesses of what I put down ? List of new and old parts since last dyno, below.
Engine Mods when last Dyoned
- Stock Dia. Light weight Pulley
- Cheap Autozone 3" Sri w/Spectre Cone
- Full size (1.6") IM spacer w/thermal gasket
- TB spacer w/dual thermal gaskets
- xlr8 J-Pipe
Current Set-up to Dyno Tomorrow
- Stock Dia. Light weight Pulley
- Dual 3" Intake to Single 5" with K&N Filter
- DTB IM
- Ported Runners
- Velocity Stack
- xlr8 J-Pipe
- 2.5" Cat Back
DYNO IS IN.
Conditions - Cant catch a break with the weather. Better then last time. Temp favored me more this time but the humidity was god awful. The print out he gave me felt like it was soaked... so humid. Guy was cool and said come back with better weather, call anytime, so I will do that.
Here is the Comparison
*Just realized he did the print out in Speed not RPM. You guys should get it though*
Decent weather, at the track.
I was hoping to do a straight comparison dyno also but the DTB set up took longer then expected and other parts came in. I do have a v2 J-Pipe.
Mods taken off from last dyno are
- 1.6" IM spacer
- TB spacer
- 3" Sri
- DTB IM
- dual 3" intake to 5"
- ported runners
- 2.5 catback
I think you can decipher it from there. What does a 2.5 catback and runners provide, subtract from there and there is the DTB gains...approximately.
**** I hate my life, just kidding but once again let down. Don't laugh, best pass was 14.7 @ 91 (missed 4th and coasted through) Yep, u read that correctly. I couldn't hook up for the life of me, next thing I know there are 4 guys walking the staging lanes with towels full of oil. Okay, so I go to the other lane and still can't hook up. I was braking 2nd loose like it was 1st, I would then back it down on the next run and get worse times. I could also smell my clutch.
Sorry guys, wish I had better news. The kicker, all the power added, took my 19"s off, passenger seat and spare out, and I ran worse times. 2.3 was my best 60'.
1/8th - 9.63 @ 77.7 mph. I launch at 3.5k rpm, and slip the clutch. i am also running 235's Federal run a size wide so they are really 245's. Really, I was spinning 2nd, not a little but through the whole gear. I had to feather the peddal through 1st and 2nd. Not trying to make excuses but it rained 4 hours before the races and the dropped oil didn't help much. 72 degrees , 52% humidity. No worries, I will go back with better weather.
Bozo, how do you have a spacer with the DTB IM ?
Lol, thanks man. We got to the bottom of this. For everyone who wants to do MDX heads, below is the correct set up.
07-09 MDX heads -
- need MDX runners
- can use 7th gen pcds
- re-use J30a4/5 valve covers( or buy MDX coil packs, MDX valve covers use studs and are deeper, thus needing longer coilpacks)
- re-use same spark plugs
- MDX, RL, and 08 TLS cams
- MDX valve cover gasket (not sure being j30a4-5 covers can be used) and head gaskets
10-13 MDX heads
- need MDX runner
- 8th gen pcds (ports are different from 7th gen)
- unconfirmed - same concept for valve covers and coil packs
- unconfirmed - same spark plugs
- unconfirmed - cams
- MDX valve cover gasket, head gasket
Anyone with additional information, please let me know and I'll be happy to edit that list.
HAPPY THANKSGIVING !!!
Okay, I need some help with new wheel options. Here the are, please let me know 1.), 2.), or 3.) . Price, weight, and look are of course huge factors here.
1.) Rota Torque 17x9 Hyper Black - 19 lbs - $170 each (around there)
+ = Looks and Price
- = Weight
2.)Motegi Mr125 - 17x7.5 - 16.4 lbs - $130 (around that)
+ = Weight, Price
- = Questionable look of spoke stick out past rim
3.) Eneki RPF1 - 17x8 - 15.6 lbs - $240 ish
+ = Weight, kinda like look
- = PRICE, only kinda like look
I though I would share what is in the works for my build. Paul is starting up work on the following parts and will hopefully be completed before Xmas.
1.) 09' 3.7 MDX Heads - Ported, Rebuilt and Decked to bump Compression.
2.) TLS Exhaust Springs
3.) RL cams
4.) Ported MDX Runners
I will probably get PCD's before installing, then it's Flash Pro.
I will also change the timing belt while in there. Is there anything else I should change while the heads are off (seals, gaskets (beside heads), etc.) ?
A little tease here. Just came in
Wheels - Rota Torques Hyperblack - 17x9 + 30 offset
Tires - (same) Federal Evo's - 235(run more like 245's)-45
They only have 10k on them so really no point of buying new ones. They were fantastic new but really feel they are loosing traction quick, may be cause my car was out of alignment for a while and I have decent camber wear on two tires. 1st is none existent, I just spin. Almost had a pretty good built (flash, cams,DR's, traction bars, exhaust, headers, 30 or 35 shot) Civic Hatch beat me. Did a 20 roll and he was a car out by 2nd, finally grabbed in 2nd, pulled through 3rd on him, hit fourth for about 2 seconds and had a bumper.. End of race.
Almost forgot, just got my rims done. Even with 245's they are still stretched just a little. I think they look perfect. Sorry for the half ass garage pics, got really busy and it got dark.
^ Thanks Man. I like the ride height being I'm not going 2mph over every piece of uneven ground, but I would like a little lower Thinking of just putting Koni Yellow adjustables in the rear and putting the Damping to 0. But $hit, at $300 for the Konis why not save and get the drop and adjustment all the way around.The wheels are 1# heavier then my old ones (18 old, 19 new) so I wont be loosing too much, power wise. If I was going to go narrower, it wouldn't be much, 235. These were the lightest, widest, best priced, good looking rim I could find. Many late nights staying up surfing the web.
Edit - These pics dont do them justice, car looks much better in person. HFP is exactly what I had in mind also.
Quick little Xmas present. GlowShift Tach Light
A little something before traveling on business.
^ Cheeping out, or at least think of trying a brand that no one has. JSK coilovers off Ebay. They are around the same price as Megans but I think the Megans may be to low of a spring rate for what I want. They also come with the same warranty.
http://www.jskusa.com/collections/js...eries-coiloverQuick Update, got word my heads, cams, and runners just delivered. Woot, woot. Need some coolant, and Valve adjustment tool and I'm breaking this bit$h down and Building her back up (obviously not a complete breakdown, top end).
I was at the store and figured I should pick up some parts for my car. Obviously joking, but I really think I need to stop buying $hit.....Nahhhh. Anyone in FL want to help install all this ? Free Liquor, Beer, and Wings.
- 09' MDX Heads (Ported, Decked, 5 way valve job Intake Side, 3 way valve job Exhaust side)
- TLS Exhaust Srpings
- MDX Ported Runners
- 08' RL Cams
- RDX 410cc Injectors
- Invoative 75A Motor Mounts
- RV6 PCD (Ceramic Coated)
- Water Pump, Timing belt kit
- Accessories for install
The work began last night. Due to time I have to do this in chunks. Hoping to have it complete by the end of the weekend. It's not a one and done job as it usually is. I have a BUNCH of stuff to switch over. Also had to port match the holes on the P2R thermal gasket to match the runner size.
Stock Injectors vs. RDX 410cc
If your not using TC clips, cut the bottom of the clip as shown to fit the RDX injectors
Breaking her open
Stock Mount vs. Innovative 75a mount Yeahhh, I think this mount was shot. Maybe a cause of some of my traction problems.
Front main seal - which looked fine, still replaced it
Heads coming off
Head comparison - J37A1 Left , J30A5 right. Dont see a huge difference on the outside, but appears to be large in the interior and I'm not talking about the porting.
Runners - J37A1 Left , J30A5 right. Hopefully Bozo sees this a finally gets what i was saying about the port shape !!
My timing belt looked brand new. Whatever, changed it anyways.
HEADS BACK ON, DOING VALVE ADJUSTMENT!! Need Fluids and hopefully she runs right.
Got done last night. She's up and running.
As predicted, idle needs to be learned, also getting two codes today (didn't happen 20miles driven last night)
1.) Running Rich on all banks. Think 410cc injectors may be a bit much
2.) ECM/PCM malfunction. This one gets me. Not sure what that is.
This sucks. Car ran smoother with 410 injectors. Whoever has the DTB setup and thought that was hard to drive, come drive my car. Pretty dumb on my part to do all this work and not have something to tune with. I say DTB is the biggest mod you want to do untuned.
Car surges at lights the whole time, 1.5k-2.5k (sometimes 3k), and when it does settle down(very rarely) it sits a 2k. The high idle causes the whole car to surge/keep going.
Well gentleman, and maybe some women, my car is now running as stock, except a lot more power. Dumb mistake,not even going to say what it was. Lets just say there was a lot of $hit that had to get switched between set ups and 1 tiny mistake/swap caused all this.
I still have a CEL but thats because I do want to reset the ECU. I am going to wait a bit and let them clear themselves.
Now, the DTB surge that everyone has is now gone. I can coast, down shift, Idle, etc all as the car is suppose to from factory. I was shocked to say the least. I just wanted it to drive as it did with just the DTB but it now drives perfectly. Not sure if it was a bad gasket (never had a leak code, or any), or if it's the better flowing parts allowing the engine to operate properly.
One thing I do know, she is BEASTY !!! Will update once cams are fully broken in.
Quick update, hope I'm not jumping the gun but I have drove 40+ miles and turned the car on and off multiple time. The CEL would usually show after I turned the car off and restart it, still have nothing (fingers crossed). Idle is good, no surge, operates properly!!
I may be crazy but I think when my scanner clear codes it erases driving history. Drove a little with the CEL on, pulled over and reset it. Like I said, may be crazy but the car feels more sluggish then before I reset it, actually a lot more. I had about 150miles since the last reset so I will just wait for the car to come in.
Friends Acura CL-types (270ish HP, 13.4-6 1/4mile), and my car.
A piece to the puzzle
Think I'm getting tuned here. He's never done a J but he know his $hit.
Cruise Control done. Had some issues with it but got it done in the end. Not very hard, just very small.
It's the little things that count.
Is this a 9th Gen Front on a 7th Gen ?? So sick !!!! Wonder what modding had to be done to get this to fit
Helpful tip with the airbag, unplug it from the lower harness and not from the airbag itself. LOL Simi was helping me and was probably like "This dumb Fu%k" LMAO . Thanks again for the help Mike. Hit me up if you want to see the tune
^ Ohh Jezz. Okay, power wise is below
- LW SD Pulley
- Full Exhaust (RV6 Ceramic coated PCD's, XLR8 V2 J Pipe, Tsudo 2.5' Cat back)
- DTB IM (with dual 3" to 5" Intake, K&N 7" filter)
- 3.7 Ported Runner (IM and Head side)
- 09' 3.7 MDX Heads (Ported, Decked, TL-s Springs (though I think MDX are the same part number), 5 way valve job exhaust - 3 way intake)
- 08' RL cams
To add/Install before tuning
- 410cc RDX Injectors
- Delete butterflies
- Tune this damn thing (of course with Flash Pro)
And heavy 19lb wheels That seems to be it.
Things that lower my expectations...
1.) That crank pulley wobbling. Shouldn't effect HP but its starting to make noise and just worries me.
2.) Want to smoke test for exhaust leaks. Sounds like a Fu5king freight train.
3.) Biggest, valve noise. When doing the TB I ended up finding it off by a tooth on both cams. Re did timing and adjusted the valves to spec twice. Still the valves seems noisier then normal, but the whole car is louder overall. Hard to tell in a confined area because of the crank pulley noise and the rumble off the walls from the exhaust.
And the truth comes out...LOL
1.) RDX Injectors, lower AFR 12's ?
2.) Change VTEC engagement 4k ?
3.) Raise Redline 7-7.2 k ?
I assume the butterfies are the flaps. There are two screw to take the top bracket and gasket off... is that all to be done ? It doesnt look like those flaps even come out.
Over 40min of driving. Really don't think a tune will fix 700+knocks. I had none on all other cylinders. I have weeded out a few causes. Compression and leak down test coming soon. Possibly too tight of a valve adjustment on cylinder #1, leak down will tell.
The problem still exists. There is also no smoke from the car, in regards to oil rings or seals. I'm Fuc$ing lost. Simi brought up a point that maybe, just maybe the ECU is bad. No way to know if the knock was present previously. And yeah, this J30 may be on the way out.
- spark plug
- coil pack
- checked for loose wire
- moved injector to another cylinder
- re checked timing (on advise from Tuner on lack of power, all good)
- found smudge on cylinder#1 valve, cleaned off
We can call off the dogs. Anyone I sent an email datalogs, don't worry about it. Compression test ran.
5 crank and 10 cranks done. Need a better compressor for higher psi to run the leak down. Pretty sure it's the heads, no oil consumption or smoke. Leak down will tell me.
The Good - Compression is back up to 210psi on cylinder #1.
The Bad - The DAMN KNOCK is still there!
I dont get it, if someone has any idea as to what this could be, please chime in. Maybe a slight bur in the combustion chamber ??? IDK
Oil Catch Can just installed. It gotta say my routing ended up looking pretty cool. I have another to put in the rear valve cover breather.
Well for those of you who dont know, my car didn't do so well on the Dyno. (260 whp, 211 tq) I'm going to switch back to my stock heads and have the 3.7's looked at. Wont know whats going on till she's back apart.. :/ Also have another build about to start up.
In the mean time I'm focusing on badly needed suspension work. Poly filled my new Lower control arms and TL Trans mount.
^ Those numbers are Dyno tuned.
214whp, 188wtq on orginal dyno with J pipe and MDX spacer.
260whp, 211wtq - DTB IM, Full exhaust (2.5 CB), 3.7 Mdx heads (decked, ported, valve job, RL cams, UD LWP, everything gasket matched, Flash pro dyno tuned.
That is horrible. Good gain over stock but not good for what I have done and what others have accomplished with less.
Here is the graph from the tune. The Graph from my original dyno is nearly the same and in SAE.
Jiga, I want to see your calibration if you dont mind. Only thing I can think of that you run 11.2 AFR is if the tuner threw crazy time at your car and dumped in fuel so it wouldn't knock.
Running with a couple friends last night. Mostly EJ Civic with 55 Shot (250whp), beat him first run by 2 cars (Nitrous lagged, no purge), second he had me 1/4 car. Need to redyno my current tune, being he beat me by two cars before
Quick Speedo Run (LOL)
Ive been quietly working, nothing really to talk about
Started tearing my stock heads apart to lightly port, polish, valve job and deck. I really think the J37 Ported heads are over kill for our J30's. I'll be saving the J37 heads for a bigger displacement swap, or I might just sell them, lol.
Also had to port some runners being the J37 are not compatible with J30A5 heads. Longest parts was waiting on the back order TL-S valve springs, etc. I did something else, but I cant think of what it was LOL for those who know.BTW, I'll have some ported and polished runners going up for sale shortly if anyone is interested.
Big bundle of Valve springs
Okay, beside machine work on runners and heads, here is what I've been up to.
Zex Nitrous system - 100 Wet Shot (New clutch hates it). I'll be installing the bottle opener in the next day or so. Enjoy the pics and vid (took 2 sec. off 40-100mph).
Supplied Fuel adapter didn't work. This is what I picked up
AND WHAT WE DO THIS FOR !!! Video
New Wideband and Tach relocated. I hate wiring, it wasn't the wideband, it was all the other crap I had to rerun into the pillar.
New Jets just got here. Time for some Nitrous AFR tuning.
For us higher mile guys (138k on mine) you may want to do this if you see a dip in Vtec crossover like I do. I'm not sure if it did any good but you will see from the pics that the Vtec screen was clogged some. It's more of an algue then actual dirt clogging.
Here's a pic. You can see the clean parts which I blew out, the whole screen had this coating but no dirt. It's also very easy to do when changing your oil, just pull the Vtec solenoid and change the gasket.
Too many projects, this is just one. I'm going to revive another unique mod that has stalled. Ill make a thread for it when all my ducks are in a row
New Aluminum Radiator Installed. Don't ask what happened to my old one.
Officially started porting my stock heads
I've been caught up with other projects but I'm done porting one head (about two weeks ago).
Polishing the Combustion Chamber
You can see here that I left the floor of the intake port rough to help atomize fuel
Exhaust Ports. Knife edged what I could but I see why most dont touch the exhaust side, it's a PITA to get all the way into.
Next step is to do the same to the other head, then they will be decked and valve job done at a shop. Once I get them back I will rebuild and time to swap heads....again.
Here it is again. Sorry for the cam, torque started pulling it backwards
^ Backed it down to a 75 shot, and will hold if I ease into the gas. This was with the clutch still pretty cool from not running around watching other guys run. Plus the other night was 6 back to back races on nitrous...of course the clutch is going to be hurting.
Here are some quick shot of how the car sit now.
AND LASTLY, WHY YOU DONT DUMP THE CLUTCH ON DR'S AND REMAN AXLES
Alright, so those of you who dont know. I bought a J35 but the mileage ended up coming back wrong, so I sent it back. While researching more J35's I came across a J32a3 with 37k miles for $500. Told the guy I would give him $450 and now I own a J32a3.
So why would I buy a J32 or a J35? Pretty simple, the mileage and cost of the J32 was impossible to pass up. A J35 with that mileage are all listed $1800+. Could have rebuilt the J35 but that's another $1000 (Pistons to bump CR, bearings, rings,etc) in parts, so it would have put the J35 at $1700.
I plan to swap all of my bolt ons over, do stage 2 cams, still spray 100shot, Spec Stage 3+ clutch and LWFW. I already have my J30 heads Im working on so they will most likely go on the J32 or I will pull the J37's off and put them on the J32...not sure. Should be fun
2014. Happy Thanksgiving Ya'll
Engine came in today. It was fully complete with TB and all. Timing belt looks brand new. Didn't get a chance to pull the valve covers or heads yet. Oil actually looked pretty good.
May have been the last passes for my J30. Gotta say, hitting the track again really lights the fire.
I only did two NA runs with one being 14.4 2.6 60'. Best NA run on the left (could have did better) and Nitrous 75 shot on right (again, could have did better). Clutch doesnt grab all that great but somehow I had traction. Go figure
That first NA run shocked me. Usually I spin like crazy but they just did a repave at the track and I could WOT in 1st and chirp second. That's compared to spinning all through 2nd last time I was there.
I did drop tire pressure to 22psi and scuffed them. You could here the tires sticking to the track when pulling up to the line. The sound was comparable to walking through dried syrup and your shoes sticking to the floor!!! Awesome!
I did break loose a couple time with Nitrous (13.5-13.7 ET)
Ive had a Duralast Red top battery for about 2 years now, it was also a used restock at Autozone that I got for $40 so 2 years aint bad.
Well I started my hunt an arrived at the Optima Batteries 8171-767-FFP (DS46B24R) YellowTop Prius Battery. It weighs 26# which isnt super lightweight, but is much lighter then stock. It's a yellow top deep cycle so will run all my accessories, which a motorcycle battery or other options posted on this form wont do. Thought this may help some of you guys/gals
http://www.amazon.com/Optima-Batteri...B00E16M1S8#AskDS46B24R YELLOWTOP® Prius® Auxiliary Battery 8171-767 | OPTIMABATTERIEShttp://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...81828268,d.eXY
Finally got around to breaking into my J32. It was really clean to begin with, but I cleaned the pistons up.
At the pace I'm accumulating parts, I will most likely have a big sale pretty soon. I have cams, worked heads, valve train, spark plugs.... the list goes on and on.
^ My J30 still runs hard man. Raced a G37 6mt the other night and had him by 1- 1.5 cars. I sprayed on him the last run and had about 3-5, hard to tell in the mirror. All runs were 35mph to 110-120mph.
Here's a quick update. The Prius Optima battery has miniature terminals so spacer were required. I fabbed mine up out of some terminals I bought at the auto parts store. Basically cut them and crimped them down to size, sat them on the terminal and the put the larger ones over them. Dropped 10 lbs over my other battery. I also kept the battery sitting vertical so the stock tie down didn't fit.
Waiting on a (3) valve stem seals and J30 heads are done. Swapping the J30's back onto the car to get a hold of my J37's and inspect.
Ended up doing a basic valve job
Slowly, but surely. Spec 3+ with LWFW. This eliminates the stock PP design!!! YAAAAYYYYYY!!!!
Guess I need to update in order to get my thread back Just in, 245-45 Mickey Thompson Street Comps, In Dash GPS kit, 02 sensor for wideband, and 3.2 axles.
Met up with Tony on here. He's okay I guess.. I couldn't figure out why we had so much in common till.....
Well I had an interesting and full weekend. Friday Night/Sat. morning I thought I bent a valve, so we started to pull the heads. The next day while pulling parts off the J37 heads to put onto the J30's I see the Valve Lash locking screw was all the way up. So, all the work for something that could have been tightened down. No worries, this just forced me to swap the heads quicker. Probably would have been another month till I did it. I now have the J37's in hand to touch up, run specs with and install on my J32.
Moral of the story, check $hit thoroughly.
Let me also say these heads feel great. I found some things out about my J37 heads that were not right. I was not running 11:1 compression, but probably 9.5:1. SMH
- Heads going back on
-THE CAUSE OF ALL OF THIS DAMN, LOOK HOW CLOSE I GOT TO DROPPING A VALVE. THAT NUT IS ONLY ON BY A COUPLE THREADS!!!!!
I want to talk to the man first, but lets say I was told they were milled .040". I milled my J30's .040" and it reduced the CC by 3mm (86mm to 83mm). Here is the pic, you tell me if those J37's were milled. Like I said, let me talk to the man first.
And no, the vale's look good. Even with all the nitrous I pushed through them.
Does the radio cover/bezel (silver cover in photo) come off? If so, how? I've tried everything but punching a hole in the thing. Any tips would be appreciated.
I also always wondered what the plug at the top of the dash bezel is. It lays into the dash and is circular. The green harness plugs into it.
Front lip and trunk lip came in
Hydro Dipped my dash GPS piece
This thing is driving me crazy. So I had to cut the tabs that hold the vents in, thus they didn't sit correctly. So I modded the inside some to make them fit. Okay, that's done....no. GPS dies so I pull the damn thing out again. The GPS charging cradle is shot. Ordered a new one, which should be here next week. Here is what it looked like installed.
Ebay front lip installed. I feel like a "pic whore"
Vibrant Ultra Quite 2.5" Resonator just came in. Had a hanger break on Tsudo exhaust and been wanting to cut some drone for a while. Figured knock them both out in one shot. Very happy with my Tsudo, figured it would take a dump quicker...but it didnt.
Well, I was pretty sure I would die if I drove in the rain again with my old, beat a$$ tires. So, had Mickey's 245-45 waiting in the wings and went to get them mounted. So far they are great. I have slight "chatter" in first, as if wanting to break loose but dont. May I add they still are pretty oily, being they are fresh. The rest of the gears just pull. After a little break in I'll test them with the 100shot Also, i would upload a video of my resonator, but I honestly cant hear a difference in the vids. In person it is night and day for me.
Federal Evo 235-45's. They were good for a while on the street. Surprisingly enough, they hooked perfectly if I scuffed them at the track, and that was on a 75 shot straight out of the hole. Pretty sure the lack of clutch helped some. They ended up being tough on the street after some wearI ended up with 30k+ on them with aggressive driving, so I'm happy. I would recommend them, but honestly the Mickeys arent much more in price. I'll let you know how these turn out
New Tires are Mickey Thompson Street Comps 245-45-17
Need ya'lls opinions. I'm torn...should be obvious, but which grill???
I need paint pretty bad
I finally got into the J37 heads. They look pretty squared away. I decided to deck them .040".
Here a daytime pic of the new grill
Dont mind me, just leaving notes for myself. LOL
125-200 HP Shot Plug
Thread Size: 14mm
Hex Size: 5/8" (16mm)
Reach: 19mm (3/4")
Seat Type: Gasket
Gap: .032" (0.8mm)
Heat Range: 8
Terminal Type: Solid
Overall Height: ISO
Thread Pitch: 1.25mm
Type: Fine Wire
Type: Taper Cut
My speed obsession brought me onto two wheels. It's just an 03' GSXR 600, nothing special but it is fun!
When your flex pipe fails and you really want to get home
I'm trying to sell some damn ported runners, NEED MESSAGING!! LOL
ON OTHER NOTES! VID. TO COME SOON. J30 HEADS MADE MORE POWER THEN MY J37 HEADS. GUESS YOU CANT RELY ON ANYONE BUT YOURSELF. This was with 21 lb wheels and 235/50 tires. I think she's a 280whp car all day with RF1's. We brought her up to 7k RPM. Not much of a drop off, which I like
Some of my Mods (excludes body, trans, mounts, etc.)-
- Custom DTB intake manifold (dual 3" into single 5")
- RV6 PCD's
- XLR8 J Pipe V2
- 2.5" TSUDO CBE (Dual resonators, Tsudo and Vibrant Ultra Quite)
- J30 heads (decked, ported, polished, rebuilt)
- Stock J30a5 cams
- ported/polished runners
- RDX 410 injectors
- dual core radiator
- Hondata Flash Pro
- 21lb Rota Torques
- 235-45 Mickey Thompson street comps
Ever wonder what are cars can tow?
Sorry guys, been off here for quite some time. Ended up getting into the bike game (2006 Zx10r) and that has been taking up most of my time. Finally getting back into my car. Here's the short update as to what's happened in the lapse of time.
I pulled my J37 heads off my J30, installed my ported and polished J30a5 heads back on. Re-dynoed and made 270whp 230wtq. Not bad for this beat J30 with 190k miles. I'm still running my 100shot on my 2nd OEM clutch (70k miles on the clutch). I think that's awesome, all things considered (nitrous and all). 190k miles and still on my 2nd OEM clutch. I do have a Spec 3+ clutch and LWFW waiting to be installed with the J32.
Future Plans - I will be building my J32 come 2018. I have a few touch ups to finish off the J37 heads and have to make up my mind if I will be camming the car or not. If I dont then I will be running J35a8 cams in it. I'm finishing porting two customers IM and runners at the moment and then I will be moving onto my stuff.
BTW - Member on Acurazine I ported IM and runners for made 306whp 270wtq on his 3.7 TL AUTOMATIC! That's pretty good for an auto!!
Ok, I will update as soon as I get going on my stuff
Pulled my J32 block from storage and found someone spilled mountain dew in the damn cylinder.... lets just say I wasnt happy.
I was able to clean most of it but theres staining on the cylinder wall. I don't feel any raised area with fingernail so I think I'm ok
BTW, Stage 1.5 cams coming in the next month or so. Im stocked!!
If anyone is interested, Bisi Moto has valve springs rated to 9800 RPM!! They are onlt $255+ shipping, by far more affordable then any others out there! Supertech springs are running $400+ and bisi allow you to retain stock keepers, retainers and locks!!
Guess whos buying them soon??
J-series VTEC Spring kit - $255.00 : Bisimoto Engineering - Reliable Power, Guaranteed
If you guys are interested in following my guest to 600whp on a stock bottom end J30/J32, Full weight, check me out on IG and Youtube below. Open to any and all suggestions, so don't be afraid to comment. It will be a relatively slow process as this is my daily and it's not cheap. Be patient and I'll get there LOL
Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCM5...S7eKFhAiutZCQA
Instagram - Handle - Triple6_AV6
Sorry guys, been away for a while.
If you don’t know, I’m going Turbo. Starting the build within the month. Follow me on IG @ Triple6_AV6
Or on YouTube under the channel - HalferLand Video’s. I have a bunch of how to videos and more to come, along with some pulls and stuff. Lmk what your interested in seeing.
IG - Triple6_AV6
YoutTube - HalferLand Videos
BTW, last Dyno video is on both IG and YouTube. Car made 345/340 only pushing 80whp on the 100shot due to stock clutch slipping
Well, something finally let loose in the motor. Thought it was a timing belt at first, but appears to be something further internal.
Anyone know if K20/K24 ARP head stud will work for us? I even heard H23 Studs will work, just have to buy two sets.
Instagram @ Triple6_AV6 ---------- YouTube Channel - HalferLand Video's
Sorry I don't get on here much anymore. It's simply too much juggling life, kid, work and then all the car stuff AND posting on 6 multiple forums.
My Turbo Build IS DONE!! I'm currently running a J32a3 which Dynoed 316/262 ALL MOTOR...
The Motor now has a Turbonetic T Series Billet wheel 6968 Turbo on it, custom Turbo kit 100% by me....TUNED BY ME.
PLEASE check out my IG and YouTube pages if you want to follow. I can no longer post all over the web. I still want to help this community that helped me, only channels I can do that through now is IG and Youtube (from a time stand point). Hope to see ya'll there.
Instagram @ Triple6_AV6 ---------- YouTube Channel - HalferLand Video's