2000 Disco II Major Rebuild/Overhaul by RSPTex

By diyauto
( 1 )

2000 Disco II Major Rebuild/Overhaul 

Compliments of RSPTex @ https://landroverforums.com


It's been abused and had a blown gasket as well as a number of other indicators that the engine was ready to be ripped apart. I love doing this stuff, so I am going all in. In the picture, go ahead, and ask me what this smelled like: 

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I also had a pretty bad shutter when shifting from park to drive, so I'm doing the prop shafts and ripping the Transmission/Transfer Case out, too and rebuilding those as well. After taking off the front passenger side tire to remove the engine with a Harbor Freight hoist, I see the shutter may be a result of there being no bushing at all on the shocks, so... New Lift Kit! Probably Terrafirma 2" with a half or one inch space up front to offset the difference in having a fatty ARB bumper, and yet to be bought HF winch. What suggestions are out there for making sure the vehicle doesn't lean forward with the bumper? Different springs or spacers? 

I've already removed and disassembled the engine.

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The heads needed 10 thou machined off of them. They're looking pretty good, now. And I was going to do the valve job all on my own, but after cleaning off the carbon with a brass brush, there was too much heavy pitting on the exhaust valves to do on my own. those are at the machine shop getting turned and polished, now. BTW, if anyone in the Utah Valley area needs machine work, Charley's is doing great work for me and has some pretty good pricing, too. 80 for the heads, 20 for the valves, and 60 to hot tank everything in my engine bay. My poor Prius is laden down right now with all of the parts I can find to be hot tanked. I'm dropping those off this morning.

Good deals and purchases so far:

-Magnaflow cats and Torque Converter from a rebuilt Disco II that was totaled 14k miles after the rebuild. Got the cats for $200 and the Torque Converter for $100.

-8.5mm Magnacor Wires for $107 on Amazon

-New Ingnition coil pack assembly from Rock Auto for $45

-Magnaflow muffler for $85, going to cut out the stock muffler and weld in the stainless new guy tomorrow. Also removing the resonator and putting a replacement pipe on so the fumes don't go up into the cabin.

-$800 in new gaskets, lifters, pushrods, rockers, rocker arms, piston rings, cam, springs, bearings, seals, bolts, u-joints, ball kit, and more from lrdirect on one of their 10% off days. The shipping was 150, but who cares, when it's so much cheaper as a whole? Took 3 business days to get to me.

-Transmission rebuild kit from Rock Auto for $170

-Oil and Transmission Fluid coolers (I may have became frustrated at the quick-release valves and accidentally ripped my spigots out...) $100

-Horsehair 8AWG 200 Amp 200 degree C Battery/Alt/Starter Cables. All silicone wrapped and so flexible, I can wrap it around my pinky! $40. I made these myself and while cleaning and rewrapping the engine wiring harness, I incorporated these cables. Anything of the large main cables under the hood were replaced by these. It's only a $1/ft, and I have used 15' red and 8' black. All of the terminals are copper (had to custom make the funny shaped ones to the main fuse box) except for the actual battery terminals(brass). But I made that modular so I can put a prototype Lithium Semi-Truck Battery in. I doubt I'll need the 3000 CCA, but If I can do it for free and it weighs half of what the original Rover battery does, and I can monitor it via Bluetooth and GPS, why not?! I use these cables at work for high discharges (3000Amps) of low voltage (12V) with large Lithium battery packs, so I figured, hey, if they can handle 200A constant and 200 degrees C, where normal battery cables are rated for 50A constant and 100 C, why not replace the old stiff stuff with this awesome super-flexible stuff!? So I did. Still not done cleaning up the harness, but here's what I have so far. 


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Half-way Done:

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I'm debating a few purchases/work, input appreciated:

-Should I get the cylinders pinned? Do the 4.0's have issues with the sleeves slipping? Mine look fine.  

-Do I need to have the block pressure tested? If so, to what pressure?

-I'm replacing the cam, lifters, rockers, rocker arms, push rods, springs, and rod springs, but keeping the valves if possible. Should I get new valve guides if mine are still in spec?  

-I've already bought a new stock cam, but is there any huge advantage to getting a modified cam? I head D&D fab makes a good one. How much do they run?

-I heard the 4.0 and 4.6 blocks are identical and that the cranks are the only different part. Can I get a 4.6 crank and get a 0.6L bump in displacement? Anything I'd need to worry about/change if I did do that?

I'll post pictures of as much of it as I can as I go, but I have a few, so I'll put those up here, now. Disco Mike, all-seeing Forum Man, be proud of the array of fluids below: 

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There are also all of the other parts for everything specified in your major service. Just out of the shot.

As of yesterday:

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And in case it helps anyone, the block is really light after you strip it of all the moving parts! I was able to pick it up and load it into the trunk of my car without any trouble.

My wife has named this truck Roger. Here is sad Roger, the gutted tripod, waiting for new parts and a lift...

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And here is the engine, in the back of my Prius. Feels kinda wrong...

Other Money savers:

And I have to brag about my water pump. It's the same one (brand and quality) that AB sells for 150, and they sell it for 120 on Amazon, but they had an open box unit, brand new, on their Warehouse Deals for $40. Looks great. Only downside is the gasket that came with it is broke... Darn, that'll be a whole two quarters more!

Another money saving tip I've found: Bolts, the stretch and stud and expensive sucker that if you do the math and materials analysis for (luckily that's my field), you can save a ton!
My exhaust manifold bolts are next to useless. Completely corroded. One of the bolt heads came off with minimal force when trying to loosen them. Getting new ones are expensive. I like not expensive. I found the correct bolt specs and then matched it to a product at Fastenal. For the kit of them, I think it was almost $100 from any of the good reputable places. I spent $4.50 total for all 16 using a corporate account at Fastenal, though. If you don't have corporate account, it's 8 bucks. Specs: 140ksi Yield, 3/8-16, 2.5" socket head, Part number 1123313. They work perfectly with the spacers and they have a slightly higher proof strength than the stock bolts (120ksi), so you'll definitely be able to reuse them. If you're worried about the socket head not having a flange, get a 3/8" Titanium washer for each of them, Part UW4440000TT0000. Or if you're just a pansy and don't want Titanium, you can get some stainless washers with 1" OD for a quarter or so, part number 0152661. If you want the truly Identical part, but with a 12 point flanged head, the part number is 22869. It's like $1.60/ea. But that's 6x what I spent. And I'm cheap. You can also get Grade 10 3" studs and then grade 8 flanged nuts, but the studs are spendy suckers! 8 bucks each, I think...

Now to go get the spec on the studs I broke on the exhaust manifolds!

Also on the docket, replacing the phillips head flush mount screws that secure the oil pump plate to the timing cover. I want Allen-key, not phillips! Those round off so easy and you can actually get a proper torque spec on allen-keyed fasteners.


A little update on the shocks... This is what the bushing looks like on the front passenger wheel well:

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Definitely need new suspension...


Thankfully, it was the back passenger side that was steam cleaned. This afternoon, I welded a new Magnaflow muffler in place of the old one. It cam out ugly, but very functional, and as a bolt-on replacement.

I spot welded small pieces of metal to the old muffler ends I wanted to keep. And then spot welded those pieces to the table. I then used a plasma cutter to cut out the muffler section:

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After removing the old muffler section, I placed the new magnaflow next to one end and then added an extension to make it reach the other end.

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Then add a few tack welds:

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Then make horrible ugly nasty huge welds and then make holes while welding and add lots more filler to make in super huge and heavy.

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Later I'll paint it with some heat-resistant paint to prevent any more rust. I now have a bolt-on replacement Magnaflow muffler to match my magna flow cats, and cut-off resonator.

Also decided to get a 53230 crower Camshaft. And I will get the 4.6L crank and rods, too and see what I can get out of the mix.


On the extra parts I need to get rid of side, I have:

1x used camshaft, used
1x new camshaft, still in box
16x lifters, new in box
1x torque converter, used
1x crankshaft, used
8x connecting rods, used
16 lifters, used
16 push rods, used
16 rockers, used
2 rocker arms, used
1x Oil Pump gearset, used
2x stainless steel rear brake lines, new

The list will grow and shrink. Let me know in a PM if you want any parts, and make me an offer or ask for a price, either works.


I'd like some definitive answers, too. Here's the link to the site I read about our components not needing to be balanced because they were individually balanced.

Affordable Aluminum Buick / Rover Stroker Motor, by Kurt Schley

BEWARE! While reading it, you will be strongly tempted to rebuild your engine as a stroker! My wife won't let me, so it's off the table...for now.

Oh, and on the cam bearings, my machinist, who has worked on these engines for a long time says he has no issue using 215 or 300 bearings on the rover engine! Hooray for cheap bearings! Unfortunately, I already paid $70 for mine... but they're being installed now, and I am taking the block to be pressure tested on Monday.


Thanks for this. The need for some definite and test input would be helpful here. I would like to see something definite from someone who has built a few of these 4.0's into 4.6's.  

The Stroker write up says he uses all of the different parts interchangeably and has done so on dozens of engines because the land rover 4.0 and 4.6 assemblies were independently balanced. Is that true? No clue. I hope so, but is there anything official from Land Rover about their rotating assemblies?

The write up mentions other variations on the Buick 215 require balancing, but not the rover 4.0 or 4.6. I would really like to know his source for that info.

Has anyone put a 4.6 crank and rods into a 4.0 and had any issues?

I think I'm going to do some research on our engine and contact the land rover engineers who designed our 4.0 and 4.6 engines. I'm still in college and my budget won't allow for rebuilding the engine for my stupid mistakes the first time. I want to do a few cheap easy upgrades while I have it apart, but only if I can know it's not going to hurt in the end.


When it comes to cost on assembly (my field of study and work, Manufacturing Engineering), its cheapest to have all parts interchangeable. Just like balancing a tire with a machine that can specifically do that, it would be cheaper tohave all parts individually balanced than to have to try to match parts in rotating assemblies.

Apple was only recntly able to do this procedure with high power imaging to match cases and inserts based on imperfections and size. It takes automation computing that definitely didnt exist when our Rovers were built.

And when working with CNC machining and weight distribution in a rotating assembly, remember that the lathes they were made on all have balancing sensors to compensate and prevent damage to the bearings. It would only take a mildly intelligent CNC maching engineer to take that and program specific points that could be used to balance a part. The program would take those points, and choose which of them to use based on which point it would have to remove the least material from, and how deep to drill to balance the part.

Something I noticed on my 4.0 crankshaft was that it had those machined holes drilled in various places on the counterweights to various depths. Thats a tell tale sign that the part was balanced. If any of you have a crank or two lying around, check and post picks of where the holes are in your counterweights and how deep. I'll post picks tomorrow.

In manufacturing, you can trust people to produce a part to spec, but in assembly, you can only trust people to take a part from the shelf and place it in the correct spot and use a pre-programmed air torque gun to make sure it meets measurement spec. The training fequired to teach them how to balance an entire assembly based on choosing parts from the shelf with different weights and offsets would be nuts. No training needed if the parts are all interchangeable, though, and you can compartimentalize the labor requirements. It also means lower cost of wages in labor. Otherwise all of the people on the assembly line would need to have an engineering degree or at least a college level course in statics and dynamics. I hated and loved those two classes. They tried to eat my soul. But... They also made it possible for me to design my wheel spacers, lift pucks, replacement bolts, etc.


So a few ways we could solve this is to do a few tests:

1. Measure the locations and depths of the holes cut in our different cranks and post them here.
2. Have the cranks tested for balancing. I'm already going to be getting a 4.6 crank and have a 4.0 crank, so I could have my machinist test that. I don't know what it would cost, but I'll check.
3. Give LR a holler and see if we can talk to one of their engineers.  

Which are you up for? I'm good for all/any of the options. I want some definitive answers on this one, personally. I know other people have swapped 4.0s for 4.6 cranks and con rods, so I know it's possible, but it would be nice to know it's not going to die in a few months/years.



I have pulled the driveshafts and transmission and transfer case!
My wife standing proudly in front of it:

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The drive shafts have been rebuilt before, but when I have new u-joints anyway, and I don't know how long ago they were rebuilt, I'll just rebuild them again. Not a big deal. The bolts/nuts weren't as bad to get off as the exhaust. I thought they would be. Maybe it was the 3 weeks of PB blasting that did it. I really don't like how all of the nuts are rounded by design for half of their width. Some were destroyed with vise grips, and all will be replaced by some happy grade 8 nuts.  

The transmission/transfer case wasn't horrible to get out, but I certainly didn't have the best lifting equipment. I am making a mount for them out of 2x4's to go on the motorcycle lift. It couldn't quite get all the way up there to hold it, so I had to get a bit creative by stacking 2x4s and using multiple jacks and jack stands. I don't recommend that to anyone. really. At all.  

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The tunnel is pretty wide open, though. And the engine bay is empty of almost anything that could get hurt by some pressure washing. I'll Cover all the things that are open or have open lines. I'm replacing all the branke lines and the fluid, so I'm not too concerned there, but still not great to get water in the pumps and what not.

I pulled my torque converter and compared it to throne I bought from an 03 D2. Identical in dimensions. Mine wasn't stock. I knew because it said BMW 37 on it.  

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It was in good condition, and I never had issues with it, but I bought the replacement before looking to see if mine was stock. I just assumed it was. I now have an extra torque converter. Rickety Tick has first dibs, but PM me if you're interested.

A few concerns I have when I pulled the transmission/t-case and drive shafts:
-Missing bolts/nuts between transmission and transfer case
-2 studs and nuts were used on the bottom cover of the t-case in place of the bolts.
-How does anyone get to the centering ball kit on the read diff to replace it? (as directed in Disco Mike's Major service)

Here's a question for people familiar with the 4.0 to 4.6 conversion:
-Are there any issues using a ZF4hp22 transmission with a 4.6 engine? RAVE mentions the transmission was upgraded to the ZF4hp24 to handle the additional torque. I am about to tear my 22 down and do a rebuild with 24 parts. Any issues anyone could see there?

Another one about the transfer case:
-While having it out, are there any parts on/in the transfer case that wear heavily or should be replaced as the "while I'm in there" mentality prevails? I am replacing the gaskets, but aside from that, I don't know.

I've ordered new Power Stop brake pads and Raybestos rotors. I already have excellent access to one side of the brakes and suspension, so I'll replace those and the brake lines this week, if I can. The other side will be just as easy. I'll just need to pull those wheels off.

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When removing the inside-cab transmission/t-case stuff, I realized how much I hate the cig adapter, so I'm replacing it and the ashtray in the back with AC120 and USB outlets. I already have all of the stuff to do it at work. I just need to wire it up and put the wiring through the firewall to the battery and to a different aux fuse.  

I’m headed now to Fastenal to get replacement nuts/bolts for all the ugly stuff that I’ve pulled for the last month. I’d use the replacement rover parts, but I’d rather pay .50/piece for the bolts and have allen keyed fasteners than 5/piece for Philips head. I’ll get spec on all of it for everyone today and post up everything I find so we can all have cheap and effective replacement fasteners!

Does anyone else have/had a room or garage that looks like this:

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I pulled the prop shafts this monday and didn't notice something really weird about the front one. It is a Discovery 1prop shaft, not a Discovery 2 prop shaft. I'm a bit worried about what damage it may have done and what issues there may be with keeping it.  

I also decided to do 10-32 screws for pinning my sleeves instead of 1/4-28. I wanted more threads to be engaged, and a 32 pitch does that. I have a smaller bearing cross-sectional area, though, so I went crazy and I'm doing two screws per cylinder. I already have all 16 holes drilled and I'm waiting for an extended reach tap wrench to be able to tap all of the holes. I couldn't reach them with a normal short tap wrench.

Last update, I got my 4.6 Crankshaft with connecting rods and pistons, as well as my CDL linkage from Abran, today. They look great! I know I'll get higher compression using the 4.0 pistons, but will the added compression mean a head gasket leak is more likely to happen in the future, and what benefit would I have from the higher compression? If anyone knows the answers to those questions, please give me a holler! I'm dropping off the parts at the machine shop tomorrow to be polished/reground and checked for cracks. I'll drop off my block once I get the holes tapped and have the correct length screws in them.

Also, I just got it all new rotors and pads. I love shiny new parts!


I still need to add the threads on most of the holes and then cut the screws to length. So far in this experience, I've found:
-The hole angles are a pain to get at with a large steady drill.  
-A variable speed drill works great, especially for starting slowly.  
-Cutting fluid is a must.
-Use a punch to as a starting point, then center drill enough to give a valley for the drill to go in, then drill at a slow-medium speed being careful to watch for the black chips (sleeves) so you know when to reduce pressure.
-Use cutting fluid on the tap, too.
-A long tap wretch is needed to get a good angle on some of those holes.
-Working on the cylinder just next to the starter mount is a pain! Plan the location and angle of the hole(s) there carefully.

Stainless screws wouldn't have the same strength characteristics as the allow steel, which is more similar to the cast iron sleeves. I went with the more similar metal, the alloy steel. I drilled the heads using a mill at the school machine shop (BYU), and I did two holes each side. I like that idea, personally.

The only question I have left for this part is what thread-lock to use. The permanent red stuff, or maybe some jbweld, or quick-steel(recommended by my machinist). I don't know if the quick steel would actually get much on the threads because it is so thick. I'd be afraid of it all scraping off as the screw entered the hole. JB weld would get some in there, and it is sturdy stuff. And the red stuff would definitely coat the threads, but would it be as strong as JB weld or quick-steel?

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Notice the black chips (Cast Iron):

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It looks like Loctite 263 is the way to go for the fasteners, or 272 for bigger bolts. I'm ordering some now. I'm also getting some blue for assembly of the other large fasteners of the engine and transmission.

To all who are considering pinning their sleeves while the engine is still in the truck:

The pressure and torque of drilling and tapping the holes may warp the cylinders. I haven't cleaned the holes up completely or had them honed, but they do look slightly off, as in a protrusion right around the drilled hole. I was gentle with my drilling, but still... We'll see when I drop off the block to be honed. I'll update once I finish the pinning. I tapped all the holes today and will cut the bolts to size tomorrow and de-burr the holes as well. The burrs could very well be confusing me, and it was a long day, so there could be nothing wrong and no manipulation, but I just wanted to throw the warning out there.

Tomorrow, finish pinning sleeves, switch out brake pads, rotors, brake lines, and maybe suspension. That's the goal. We'll see what happens!

 just bought the plugs that are the same part number from Britpart. I bought most of my parts from lrdirect, getting Britpart Brand stuff. It is much cheaper than elsewhere. I like the quality of what I've seen so far. great stuff. The plugs look like a coated aluminum. I'll give them to the shop and have him do them. I'll pressure test after doing everything else and see what I turn up with. I put a good deal of pressure on the threading to make sure I didn't pull it out while cutting, and when pushing on the Cast Iron, perhaps it did deform. I'm still optimistic that it's just my eyes playing tricks on me. I'll know on Monday, though.


This is a great project! I've pinned the sleeves, and they are now being honed and the block is also being decked, having new cam bearings and freeze plugs put in. I found that on one half of my block the screw depth was .050" longer than the other side, with variation between the 4 cylinders of each side being less than .010". You'll notice on the diagram of depths, the screw length is 1.045" and the depth I measured was the surface of the block to the top of the screw with a depth gauge. I was able to then use nuts to lock in place where I wanted to cut with a dremel and sand/finish the screw from there. I heavily advise against pinning sleeves while the engine is assembled and in the bay. There's particulate matter that WILL fall on your crank, journals, connecting rods, and WILL be picked up by your oils feed pipe and be put into your oil pump, lifters, rockers, etc! I don't think there was any warping done to the cylinders. Some 1200 grit sandpaper and oil was able to get rid of almost all of the lip that drilling and tapping made. The honing of the cylinders is going to take care of the rest.

I have the exhaust manifolds back from being sandblasted. They aren't red with rust anymore! I need to put new studs in them, though. 3 broke, and the other 3 can't be far behind. The pictures are of the manifolds in my motorcycle saddlebags. Sorry for the weird angle.

I'm still waiting on the valves, and then I can finish the heads after lapping the valves to their seats.

I've installed the front axle's lift, which looks really goofy, given it has nothing to weigh it down, so it's super tall. I bought the TF 2" lift kit, and the truck was already using 1" spacers up front, probably to offset the weight of the ARB Bumper. I ordered some aluminum to machine a pair of spacers for the back and give the truck an even 3" lift.

While doing the suspension, I also tried to replace all the brake stuff. That was a crazy experience. The first one is always the worst. It took 4 hours! The brake lines sent didn't have the right fittings and only grabbed onto about 2 threads of the male thread from the truck. Very bad! I'm having new lines sent, which will get here first part of next week, which is also when I'll put the rest of the suspension on. I also have new raybestos rotors and power stop ceramic pads. When I replace the brake fluid, I'll also install the speed bleeders to make that go faster. I've used them on my motorcycles, and you can't beat them! It turns a 30 minute job into a 5 minute job with no stress and very little waste.

I haven't done anything with the transmission or transfer case, yet. I need to read up on rebuilding the transmission so I can get that done and then install new gaskets and seals on the transfer case. Rusty1 was awesome enough to send me an old double cardan front drive shaft that I'll rebuild and put on the front, using the flange that mates with the transfer case (mine uses a D1 flange...). I'm debating the rear driveshaft. I could get another rotoflex, but with 3 inches of lift, I am considering just doing a double cardan on the back, as well. I just don't know how to do it, yet...

Because the truck is gutted, I am now looking at doing the headlight conversion. When I bought the 03-04 headlights to put on my 2000, they were both oxidized, but came with the pigtails of the connectors from the truck, which makes splicing those wires with my truck's very easy. I'll take a grinder to it this week or weekend and get those fitted...then removed to prevent damage while doing everything else. I am also repainting the wheel flares and grille. Paint and sandpaper are cheap, and I am still waiting on parts, so I have time.

I've organized all of the work I'm doing into folders in my google drive. They're continually changing, but here's the link to the folder, so anyone can enjoy access to all my write-ups, photos, specs, notes, etc:

Robbie's Disco II Google Drive Folder

Anyone can view and download everything in it, but you can't modify the them on the google drive folder. You can download all of it and modify it for your own use, though! I'll be updating all of the projects as they get closer to being finished. As you'll see, some of the projects are empty because I haven't started them, yet. They handsfree entry/keyless ignition is still being developed. It'll be awesome, though, I promise you that!

I've also been working on cataloging the specs to all of the bolts I need to replace and get high-end replacements. The spreadsheet for that is in there. I'm only about 1/4 the way through what I want to do on the fasteners.

Screw Land Rover (get the pun?!)

That's all I have for now. I'll let you all low more when I do more. Turns out my wife wants to do things that don't involve a wrench some nights, so I don't get to work as much as I'd like to....


Yeah, just talked to my machinist yesterday and he's going to do it for free since I've had him do so much other stuff. Then I'll lap them. Good call.

As for coating the inside liner of the exhaust manifolds, I am tempted to do it. The big question, is how much would it cost? I'm going pretty crazy on this rebuild, but I can only go "college-student-with-decent-income-and-more-tuition-due-in-September Crazy". If this is something I can do on my own, then I'll look into it, but if not... guessing it's not cheap. And why would you want to line the manifolds to keep in the heat? Wouldn't you want to coat the outside so the heat gets to the manifolds, but not to other things? The heat has to go somewhere, so if it's not radiating out of the manifolds, it's placing more heat load on the catalytic converters (and radiating to the front driveshaft U-Joints), or making the heads and block hotter.

When I reason it out, lining them sounds like a bad idea. Convince me, though. I'd like to know more about the concept and where else it's done, and for what reasons, with which successes.


I don't know how much work I can update everyone on this weekend. I sprained my ankle and got hit in the neck with a softball while sliding into third this Thursday. I'm pretty useless right now, so I don't know how much work my wife will let me do. On the upside, I finally get time to work on my media/security camera server. Not related to rovers at all, but I am proud of it:
- 3x SSDs in RAID 0 to run Mac OS
- 1x SSD to run Windows
- 8x 3TB drives in RAID 6 (can lose any two drives and lose no information)
- Liquid-cooled, over-clocked quad-core processor
- 1000W 80plus gold PSU
- GTX 760 Graphics card
- Custom case with remote-controlled red LED's (helps performance soooo much!)
It's a fast and powerful little beast. I named him Titan:

With Google Fiber, I have quite the little server!
That's all of my off-rover talk. Just happy to have time to work on it!


Drowssap, you FAILED! I was convinced. So I went to the foundry at my college to use the sand blaster and remove all the crud from the manifolds and the furnace to cure the ceramic paint. They were previously blasted with glass, but the ceramic paint doesn't stick well to that surface, so I wanted to rough them up. It's amazing how cast iron can look like aluminum after being blasted so clean. Check it out:

I don't have pictures of the cured product, but it looks amazing and I can't wait to mount them up. I also replaced the old studs before painting to give them some rust and heat resistance, too. We'll see how much comes off while bolting on the Y-pipes...

I used the VHT Flameproof stuff in matte black (not as flashy, but that's ok). It is supposed to resist up to 2000 F. The paint goes on pretty easy, and I sprayed some directly into the pipes of the manifolds to coat the inside as well as the outside. It worked better than I expected. I was guessing I'd have tons of running, but it distributed out pretty evenly. I used the whole can on the two manifolds. Part of me wanted to go thicker, but I think the layers I have will work fine. The ceramic coating is very hard after curing and cooling. I like it.


Here's a "fun" development. I don't know why I didn't see it before, but it was staring me in the face. There was a giant gaping hole in the back of my transfer case. Here I am trying to make sure I get all the right seals when the rear input shaft bearings are chunks and dust. Combined with the grease and fluid in the t-case, it formed a great way to get metal slivers under my skin.

I've already ordered a used t-case from a wrecking yard in the Twin Cities area for $185 shipped. I'm going to reseal that thing and make it look as good as the rest of the truck will.

I picked up my new crank rod/piston combo yesterday. I had to have 4 of the rods straightened and re-honed, but they're all in perfect condition now. The block has been honed, with new freeze plugs, new cam bearings, freshly decked surfaces, and a completely solid sleeve-pinning job (2 pins per cylinder). All I'm waiting on for assembly are the oversized crank mains and rods bearings. I only had to go oversized to +.010.  

But, on the upside, I was able to find time to finish putting in the rear suspension upgrade. I had to do it at night, though. And I don't have a garage. Luckily, I work for a company that makes portable lithium batteries with AC/DC output, so this is what my night ended with:

And Dusty1 hooked me up with a front driveshaft he wasn't using, so I'll rebuild that, and maybe machine a spacer for it to give the shaft a bit more grab onto the splines. I am now looking for a rear drive shaft from a D1 so I can be rid of the rotoflex. I have the rear diff conversion on the way from England. I just need the rear D1 shaft to match it. I'll also probably do a spacer back there, too.  

I have access to so many fun electronics and manufacturing facilities right now, that it would make no sense to not incorporate this tech into the finished vehicle somehow. I was even trying to figure out how to make this truck a fully electric vehicle for a while, but that battery would be massive! I'll do it later to an old Mini Cooper. It'll be a fast little car, too. I know that I'll have one of the lithium packs in the back for emergencies, but I'll also have the main car battery as a lithium pack with a battery bay I make myself with some aluminum. To start it, I'll use some Ultra-capacitors in series:

Our trucks draw about 500 Cold Cranking Amps, and the stock batteries we use can provide about 750 CCA. A set of five of these ultra-caps delivers 1000A, not including the lithium pack I'm using in parallel with it. It should be able to provide right around 2000 CCA with the lithium pack and caps combined. That means I can jump start a Semi-truck! And this is what I normally use them on at work:

That's a test stand to test the true functionality of a battery and what it can handle in discharge. Right now it can handle a constant discharge of 60 kW @ 4000 Amps. Fun stuff. If anyone is interested in doing a ultra-cap setup, let me know and I'll put up a step-by-step on how I do mine.

Thanks for everyone's help and advice so far. I'll keep everyone updated with more photos over this weekend as I tackle the transmission tear-down and rebuild. Maybe I'll be able to get the headlight conversion taken care of, too!


I've got a new t-case on the way and I'm rebuilding the transmission myself this week while I wait for crank bearings from England.

But I agree, this sucker was limping on its last polio-ridden leg. Just about everything that moves is getting replaced, rebuilt, or serviced.


Time for an update!

I finally have the last parts I need ordered for the engine, transmission, and transfer case rebuilds. The engine rebuild will go way fast, especially given all of the new parts and freshly machined everything!

I was able to take the transmission apart and lost a few very small pieces. I'm headed to a transmission shop to see if they carry the spares. It's the two check ***** and the dimple-shaped check valves in the valve body. I am having trouble finding a good manual to show the proper rebuild procedure for our 4hp22/24's. Plenty of others floating around, though. And the one I'm using can be found in the google drive folder I linked to a few posts back. The only real assembly trouble I've had is knowing how many of each of the layers of metal/textured clutch plates to use and also getting the entire assembly to fit back into the transmission housing. I have it within a 1/4" of fitting under the snap ring. I know that means something isn't engaging or I did something wrong, but I don't know where, yet. The other trouble was trying to replace the bearing of the oil pump. The kit from Rock Auto came with that bearing, but trying to put it in is crazy hard unless using a bearing press. I also found out the rear seal that comes with the Rock Auto kit is useless. It was made for a RWD output adapter, not like ours. The part we need is RTC4650.  

The new transfer case is in and I've cleaned it up and I'm waiting on the gasket and seal kit (and bearings) from England before I rip it apart and reseal it with new bearings. The transfer case looks good. But then again, anything looks better than my old one...

While waiting for parts, I've taken the bumper off to repaint it and also do my headlight conversion. Don't let anyone tell you the sheet metal comes off easy. It's a huge PITA!

And after removing it, I have no clue where to make new mounts or how to mount the new headlights. All I know now is that I'm going to make custom mounts with some threaded rod. I'll use 3 rods per headlight and secure them to the headlight with RTV sealed mounts. I'll also have to figure out mild shock-absorbtion. There are plenty of write-ups on the conversion, but so few on how to secure the headlight after gutting the old mounts. I think that will be one of my contributions to this community. I'll put that together with photos in a separate thread.

The bumper was rusting much more than I thought it was. I sanded it down and chipped away as much rust as possible. I then covered the ARB emblem with tape, and put a few coats of the "Rust Reformer" by rustoleum on it. According to them, it converts the rust to a paintable and primed surface. I'll coat it a few more times with some matte high performance enamel and then a coat or two of the glossy high performance enamel. I'll have it done this evening. Here's a pic of where it's at now:


For anyone keeping up with this thread, here's an update.

I have the engine, transmission, and transfer case in.  Engine is doing well. It sounds great and hasn't had any issues except for the front O2 sensors that aren't sending a signal. I had a bit of an overheating issue, but I was also using the old thermostat that wasn't opening. After installing a new one, it's as happy as it can be. I've adjusted the throttle and cruise control cables to the spec in RAVE, but after the truck warms up, the idle drops gradually from 1k to .5k. It takes about 5 minutes to do it. While warming up, though it idles at 1.1-1.2k. I'm guessing the low idle speed is due to the lack of feedback from the O2 sensors. I'll run new wires to them later this week.

I installed Magnaflow cats and a custom magna flow muffler with the resonator removed. To make sure it gets nice cold air, I have a snorkel coupled with a K&N air filter. I bought a cheap snorkel kit on eBay for $180, and it didn't have the best instructions, just a template. I had to figure out where to cut the holes to make it fit correctly. I used a lot of RTV to seal all the joints and the air box. I also had to rebuild the connection between the air box and the fender. When cleaning it, a pressure washer was used. The fabric disintegrated. It's fine, now, and sealed up nice and happy! The truck breathes well.

As you can see in prior posts, the original transfer case was shot, so I bought another and resealed it as well as well as replaced the bearings. It's in generally good condition. I bought a CDL kit from Abran and was going to put it on my old transfer case, but now it's on the new one. I only had one issue with the transfer case. When I tried to shift the transfer case into hi or low, I couldn't. It was the lockout solenoid that I put in from the old D1 transfer case that was in there before. I tossed it, and now it works fine.

I have an early D1 rear driveshaft instead of the rotoflex one. The front and rear driveshafts are rebuilt. New U-joints and centering ball kit. the front driveshaft came front Dusty1. Huge help.

Power steering fluid is replaced and happy.  Brakes are, too. I put new rotors, pads, and longer stainless lines on. It will be able to stop! I do these projects after school and work, which sometimes means doing work in the rain at night... Good thing I work for a company that does portable emergency power!

Because I wanted a fun look, I bought 18" mondial rims and some 33" tires. I'm using 1.5" hub-centric spacers to give it a wider stance, too.

The transmission is not playing nice with me, though, and I think I know why. I think I need to add more transmission fluid. I've added it until it runs out of the fill hole while in park and neutral, but not drive, reverse, or 1,2,3. I still need to add that, and it could be the cause of the issue, but more likely it's the XYZ switch needing to be serviced and repositioned.  
This is why:
-Cannot get the dash or gear selector to tell me I'm in 1st,when the gear selector is put in 1st and the selector on the transmission is definitely in 1st.
-Reverse is the only gear that works. 1,2,3, and D do not work.
-When trying to drive, the "M" and "S" start flashing, with the D on the gear selector.
-Just started getting a P0722 code
-Also, it feels like if the transmission had a hand, it'd be flipping me off

Aside from the major stuff, I still need to do a few smaller things. I need to run lines to the washer jets of the bumperand the hood. I have new jets for the hood. I also need to do the wiring for the 03-04 headlights. The spots are prepared and the mounts are made, I just need to do the wiring. The hood is also repainted with mixed results... You can read more about it in the thread I put up about it.

On a more fun note, I have a custom roof rack being made! There's a guy a few hours north of here making it for me and also powder coating it and my rims. The roof rack is all aluminum, and has a few fun perks. I designed the rack in CAD. It won't block any sight through either of the sunroofs. It has a removable insert to make it compatible with a roof tent. It also has two skids that slide out from the back that are very grippy, and will help get me out of snow, mud, ice, etc. Lastly, there are LED bars facing every direction that are built into the rack. One very large one on the front, and 3 large ones facing the sides and rear. I figure I'll need to be able to see the zombies coming from any direction in the apocalypse. And as if that weren't enough, I also have 4 flood lights mounted on the front of the ARB bumper. With the rack and wheels, I feel like this truck is going to look pretty Bad-A.

Now if I can just get it to move forward under its' own power...

Also, if anyone wants the CAD files for the rack, let me know, I'll be happy to shoot them over to you. My only condition is that you don't use them to make money.