Project:Soarer by megamax

By diyauto
( 1 )


Compliments of megamax @


well time for a work log on this sled.. got it for cheapp but no running tranny. 4.0 v8 1uzfe that is on it's way out of the car.. engine runs strong and the ac is ****ing remarkable..

towed with the man-wagon 120 miles(yes it is legal).

got stopped by a state trooper and a sherrif in a neighbor county and they both could give a **** less. the trooper only said"keep it above 55" and it was at night because no traffic and only ****ting bricks when semi's drove by(was planned). got the car at 9pm and didnt park it till 2am. the clutch wasn't happy.

but before i stuck it in storage time for a badly needed wash. this exterior was immaculate. with original paint and all all oem parts on the car(even the sc400-only-front lip).

but the interior has had better days.. time for some recaros and a good carpet cleaning. and maybe a toyota steering wheel(oem)

now after 2 months of sitting. and finally located a replacement tranny(from a ls400(i had onf of those 2). time to try to swap.

well got the ****er on jackstands. but need extra wood to get more clearance

so got to work on the tranny(the new one) noticed there was some "secretion" on the input shaft side. so i tighten the bolts

commenced draining the fluid so i can change the filter.

don't have a lexus fsm yet. so i used my rb torque bolt pattern for the auto pan.

rebuilt?? wtf.. some ******* didn't use a gasket but all this gasket maker ****. took me an hr to get it all off.

new filter and ready to go in.

the oil cooler lines were harder than **** to get loose(use vice grips) that got them to cooperate.

so back to taking out the old tranny.. the bolts on the exhaust were a nogo. and i didn't have my sawzall so i had to hack the **** off.. first i started right after the cats to get the tranny to drop. then i said **** it and took the whold thing off..

then i couldn't get the ****ing engine/tranny to tilt so i could get to the top tranny bolts from under the car.. at this point i said **** it. this is too much trouble to go through for an automatic that iam going to swap out anyway.. so iam selling the **** i don't need and the car will sit till ready(like the rb).


well comming along,slowly. will pick up when i get my motor set this year.

last week chucked the seats in the back(it's on now) and loosened up the drivers and passengers(there going in the trash too). looking at some birde recliners.

going to get some black carpet and velcro it over this


well it's time to get some progress on this thing.

so yesterday i enlisted the help of one of my pals to get this v8 brick out of this thing. iam always a solo mechanic. but iam lacking the garage and time to do this one alone.

i loosened everything up under the car sans for 2 bolts to hold the tranny up. ds was taken off as well as some powersteer fluid drained.

"let my sc go"

a novel idea

using for rollers z32 front and g35s in the rear(this car will fit any 5x114 wheel it seems like).

got the radiator out. still not understanding this hydrolic fan crap yet. i have to sit down when i get some time and look it over.

started to pull the engine out but had to stop a lot to get to those bolts and fasteners behind the damn engine. and that harness.. oh that ****ing harness..

they do work hard(mexicans) but the illegals shoult still go home(this one is legal)

and again that ****ing harness.

so much harness

those "crafty-**********s" at toyota were clever the engine harness is pretty much wrapped around the engine in really hard to reach nooks and crannies.

had to cut a few wires and a few tabs are broken.

but for the most part i think i saved almost all of the engine. harness,you want as little as much cuts as possible because the harness fab person or company will charge extra for missing **** they need.

i also think i got away because this a v8 one and most of the **** i won't need anyway for my swap.

wow that **** was heavy. don't know wtf kind of alum they used but heavy like a iron block.

and really really really ****ty oem mounts toyota makes i see.

so all in all took 3 hrs(not bad) this was my 2nd 1uz ive pulled so wooo. big difference without engine car is lighter(duh) but how lighter is the question??

cleaned up the engine bay a little. going to do more before the motor set comes. as pull the harness out of the car and what not.

and after one more push and heave, this is how it sits now..



well iam getting the motorset before anything. iam dead set on getting a 1jz but some days i want a 2j. the latter would cost way more(oem oil pump/sump $500.00). and it would take some more time then. 

iam going to keep the twin turbo setup, as i already have a single turbo car and having 2 of them would be pointless. maybe a garett wheel upgrade or a hks mod.

but for now going to clean up bay and find someone to do this harness for cheapo(hopefully).


-UPDATE TIME- dammit!!!

well it's been a while(ran out of cash). and i have to tend to my rb swap. raising 3 kids(my cars) isn't an easy task. I brought this car from a fellow in sedalia m.o. and upon further research i would need a rear sump oil pan and a sc300 if i was to do any kind of jz based swap. a used oil pan goes for $250.00($500.00 new). and a front x member goes for who knows how much(haven't seen a sc at p&p for a while).

So the guy happend to have a wercked 300 he was trying to unload for a couple of months. i finally bit after i talked him down to $300.00(later $250.00) i employed my friend alan who helped me with the 400 pull. the deal was we go pick it up.i take what i need and he could have the car for scrap(it had a clean title). 

The car had 290,mi about 300 miles on it. it started. smoked alot from the engine but started. the rear dif was locked up so we had to improvise the damn thing onto the dolly.

interior had is(still water where back seat used to be).

so the day after, got a late start pulling the engine and nighttime creeped up on our ass. so doing it in the dark, with flashlights and stuff.

Wasted an hr and half trying to get this ****ing engine out. then realized the car was in "park" and that held onto the driveshaft yoke. so put the ***** in neu then the **** came out like cum from a virgins weiner...

the day after. the block was dirty as ****. i removed the engine mount brackets,and chucked the headers and sold the cat(only one,seller sold other)

so my pal did some research and found out that the n/a block is tits in the jz community. so i gave it to him for some suby wheels and $50.00 bucks. so i had to remove the oil pan before hand.

so many bolts

finally ****ing done.

i have to go and remove the x-member this month sometime. so stay tuned.

^^ you don't say..

james n said in his forumla.

I've been getting some PM from member who is interest in doing this swap. So i'm about to list all the parts from the top of my head that I've done in conversion. 

1)2JZ-GTE Engine and Tranny auto.

2) Lextreme TC because I want to have more torque plus I was told that it would help my tranny hold extra HP once I go single.

3) I bought new wiring harness since I don't like old wires. You can use your old harness if its in good condition. Also my motor was ARISTO so I have to get supra harness and ECU. 

3) I've change oil pan becuase the Aristo motor is front sump. You need rear sump from the SUPRA. If you can get a hold of a Supra motor then you dont need to change oil pan. 


5) Relocate your Power Stearing tank.

6) You dont have traction control no more.

7) Get down pipe and recommend to change exhuast too

8) Get SC300 coolant reserve tank

9) Drive shaft bolt right up to the auto tranny. 

10) MSD Tach adapter for your Tach but its not acurate

11) Your Tempt guage won't work properly get a Resistor for it.

12) Upgrade to Walbro fuel pump

13) Redo timing belt water pump, cam seals, crank seals, and rear main seals

14) Check for bad pulleys and change them too

This is pretty much it if you want you stock conversion and that is all I can think of.


so the weekend before the last, me and one of my gals took a trip to arkansas. there was this fellow who had a w58 tranny from a sc300 with 40k miles on it. He wanted to unload it for $350.00. But with gas and all he agreed on $200.00 picked up. **** YEAH. But Months passed and didn't get the time untill that weekend to trek down and finally get it..

so iam going to finish this swap this summer so stay tuned. decided on finally going 1j.


well since the engine is on it's way, ive gotten my list to finish this. this batch is from -not including shipping-

-sc300 shift boot $58

-sc400 5 spd pedal set $355

-1jz timing belt $32

-complete gasket kit 1j $250.00


-motor mounts X2 $138

-oil pump $180

-clutch hose $45

-supra nose emblem$26

-supra fuel pump $250.00

-steering rack bushlings $40.00

-aeromotive fpr $260


-flywheel bolts$30

-w58 slave$35

-w58 comp flywheel $300*

-x3 dowdel pins $9.00

-pressure plate bolts$7.00

-tranny bellhousing bolts$10.50

-w58 clutch piviot ball$20.00

-w58 output seal$10.25

-w58 clutch release bearings$38

-tranny mount w58$56



-radiator $130-170

-intercooler piping $150

-240sx exhaust$ 140

-fuel cut defencer$80

-downpipe set$168


anyone know where i can find an oem sc300 5 spd flywheel on the cheap???


SO DELIVERY DAY. And here it is.

took the wrapping off and viola. Clean as ****.The guy that i brought this from said it was from a toyota chaser. But the invoice said a supra(mk3) Whos telling the truth?? will tind out later. time to check it out.

I must say i was very,very,very impressed at the quality and how ****ing clean this engine is.. wow, so far best 1105 i spent. The rb was clean but had oxidation from the sea salt. Meaning it sat on the dock for a bit.

Not this engine. i was irked that they didn't drain the tranny. The engine still had oil in the pan. It looked dark. Didn't drain it yet though.

had my good pal- al help me out. with his armada.(lots of nissan sausage here).

Since i have 2 storages. I had to move stuff. so this was the time to do so seeing i have no wagon now, and no truck. so going from one unit to the other with more space to prep these engines..

i plan on scrapping the head on the 2jzge. and stripping the block bare. hot tanking/cleaning it and putting it on a stand till i decide on a 1.5jz swap if any.

But lucily i need the ac condensor off the ge motor since my gte one didn't come with one(seems to be the only part missing).

so we took

-cherry picker

-1jzgte motorset

-2jzge block

-w58 tranny

strapped them down and was on our way.

After some lugging and tugging to get this **** up 2 small steps finally got everything situated..

And now for the star of the show.

the effing engine looks immaculate. And not some shop spraying some armor-all on parts to make them shine. All the components look brand new. Which means either i lucked out and got a rebuilt motor. Or this **** has less than 10k on it..

even the timing belt looks tits..

the only extra piece the sert came with..

effing offical

all the pipes look freaking brand new. and even the head looks new.

the only thing so far that shows wear is the plastic loom that covers the spark wires crumble when you touch them. Common sighn when wires are between the valve covers.

and even the transmission looks new. But iam selling this sucker. so if anyone is interested $360.00+shp/delivery.

So the downside is i got a cut harness. It stated that in the auction so this is no suprise. I made it clear to the engine shop guy. "do not send me one with the igniter plug cut. He complied. looks like some wires going to the dash. Not sure, i knew harness work(merging this and the sc400 harness) would be a max of $1,000.00.

Dosen't make sense it's so high. would love to find someone to do this for half or less. But lexus/toyota cost more than nissan so yeah.

The only pair of plugs i got with the motor. other wise everything else is wired up.

So this is the ecu. and i opened it to check if there was any melted capacitors.

so just did a search. and my ecu code is 89661-24281

and survey says......

8/92 - 1/94 Soarer 1JZ-GTE A/T ECU.

also found this on supra forums

which 1jz ecu is 89661-24281 

"I was told this ecu was from a soarer m/t but I want to verify it; part number 89661-24281. I know the chaser and soarer ecu's are interchangeable but I want to know exactly what I have. I have a chaser harness I figure bc my 1j is a front sump, non vvti, 2plug harness missing the 2 body plugs that go to the ecu which I picked up today off a avalon, I read that the v6 camry es300 and avalon had the same ecu plugs so I went searching the junkyard and found the 2 plugs."


so i got a clutch master cylinder on the cheap($42.00 shipped). saved me $60+. iam kind of a big deal..


so it's been hot as **** recently here in m.o. so that makes my job harder(duh). But i have to get this damn thing running by winter so i can get another suby daily so i can finally invest in the stock market and take over the world.

So ive never really removed a tq converter before. On my 240sx i left it on the block as i sent the single cam to the scrap yard. On my donor sc300 i left it on the block untill the other day(when this happened)..

so i had my engine/tranny on my stand and i removed the tranny(check). then i was taking the bolts off the tq converter. The engine leand forwaRd a little when i took the final bolt off from the flywheel.

but when i slid the ****ing doughnut off(which i didn't know these things were that ****ing heavy). My ****ing engine tilted forward and my damper lip(outside-fanbelt). got chipped and broke the fall..

OUCH!!! Yeah iam a cock-sucker. But "even monkeys fall from trees". So surveying the damage..

There goes my minty new damper pulley. So while it was down there i took the opp to take off the fkn flexplate.

i had to use one of my magnum rubbers to help me get the engine right side up.

so after a few knick-nacks. I wanted to remove the harness and box it up with the sc4 oem one to be ready to ship.

none told me "hey you got to remove the ****ing intake" just can't be easy right..

and here is the damn thing. Pretty long for something that was cut somewhat...

anybody know what sensor this is??? it was on my ge block so it's not unheard of(unless it's me).

so iam trying to clean my oil pan from my ge car. And it's grimer than ****..iam soaking it in soapy water. using brillo pads. and now were using engine cleaner..

iam thinking i need an oven brush?? Dosen't have to be perfect, just want some of that old grime gone. Well thats all i have now. Have to get the damn turbo changed out on the rb so we will see. and still abt $4k away from getting this thing running.. so yeah


so still fishing for a damn w58 flywheel. had an opp and it slipped away(much like the rest of my life). so looking at the lex and wanted to know what does this cool??? the "former" auto tranny or the powersteering??

and some MORE questions???

i want my powersteering setup to be like the mk4 supra.. like so

i intend to use the resv from my ls400 and the 1jz pump as it looks just like the mk4. so heres my issue.. what lines go to what??

i know 2 go to the cooler. and 2 are not connected. does it matter which goes to the resv or to the rack???

and finally iam trying to get this damn hydro fan off..

i want to run a regular clutch fan and water pump. from looking online there appears to be 2 different kinds. can't i use a 2jzgte pump??

and do i need to remove the timing belt like on a rb to clear??(hope not)..

and finally one more ??? since i have a ls400(v8). do i still need a supra fuel pump??? i mean the v8 has to have a big pump already correct??? so should the stock ls400 pump suffice for boosting??


so i finally got some time to get the oil pan switched out to the rear sump from my 2jzge. it was a fairly direct and easy swap as ive taken one of these off before. there is still a ****load of bolts..

i used the bolts directly off the 1jz front sump. and i needed 5 more from the ge stash.

the crankcase itself looks really good. not that much grime on it actually. big difference between this and my 230k ge bottom end.

and the rear sump assembly going on.

without a hitch.... except i broke off one bolt in the back when installing the pan-pan. it is in the alum assembly. so the rest of the bolts didn't torque them so hard. 

couldn't find tq specs or bolt tighting sequences, so i had to use wing it and do a crisscross pattern like with my rb..

go rear sump POWER!! so i hear i need a mk4 supra oil return tube. but i might just try to find/fabb some rubber hoses to make the 1jz tube work..

the day after i did this the toyota fipg still didn't cure. iam not going to have this running anytime soon, but still weird that after 24hrs it's still not hard(need cialis).

so i got these 2jzge engine mounts. and i don't know which one is for right or left?? any help

and i went to the junkyard and scored a 94 camry 4 cylinder throttle cable. i hear i need a 95. But hopefully this will suffice. testimating the throttle length this will work..

that is all.. sorry this is moving slower than aids. but it's been a rough year. hoping to get this done for txtk12 before 12/12/12 yikes!!!


so i installed the sc300 engine mounts.. had to remove the oil tree but no biggie. and i mounted the sc300 oil dipstick. and i mounted the w58 slave. 

also mounted the ac condensor, so iam almost ready to rock..

-water pump assembly.

-need flywheel

-cltuch kit,with flywhl bolts.

-engine harness and enging mounts..

then i can stick this sucker in the car..

now i can use any mk4 supra engine mounts for this correct??

and also does anyone have a part number for the mk4 supra oil return neck?? and an approx price??


well finally got a hold of a w58 from a sc300. had to go the fires of mt.doom to get it though...

wanna give a shoutout to cl member. 96SC


so iam removing my stock twins. and iam offically going single... so looking at a cheapo tublar manifold where i can get it braced with some metal for more sturdyness... looking at this setup..

And cheaping out on the wastegate..

i did want to get this cx racing manifold because they do make good ****. but the godspeed offers more items..

if i go v band getting this downpipe

but might just stay internal wastegatted for ease of welding and keeping things simpler..all depends on what the hx 40 i get comes with??


well it's time for updates. getting colder than ballz here in m.o. and iam working 2nd shift. and i got this beater truck iam pondering on keeping for a winter daily. (an 89 d21 nissan).

so working in my cold dark lair gets annoying sometimes... thanks to a certian member who is also doing a sc400 swap. i saved a ton of money not having to buy oem or arp fwheel bolts..

spent 7 beans on these and seems to fit perfectly. some BLUE locktite and iam ready to go..

so i went to autozone and orderes a fel(you up) pro rear main seal. came with the gasket also for the circle thing around the seal. didn't bother changing it as it looks to have some rtv sealant instead...

so tacking the rear main seal on guess i went way too far..

did a comparison on my ge engine and yep i put it too far on.. so took it off and went to az, they sent me a replacement i have to pick up..

so i finally got around to removing these damn stock twins. and i never never want to do this again... i mean things did get easier when i got my ratcheting cresant wrench and when i finally came up with mt cheater bar idea then it went smoothly. i HIGHLY recommend to anyone doing this or working with cars in general. 







i never had a ratcheting cresant before. and that did make things much easier. and the cheater bar saved a lot of curses for down the road..

so going single. and here we go...

got all the cold side pipes off that was pretty much easy and straight forward.

above is the bar used from my crafstman jack. doing this made remving the exhaust bolts a breeze. luckily none of them were rusted bad and i didn't strip anything..

this was the hardest bolt to get to. but removing the coolant neck also made that simple..

and the finished product??? a 1JZGE FOR A LIMITED TIME...

the exhaust ports were really grimey.

this sucker is going on sale........ now $100.00+shp for this and pipes and all..

so heres a question. do i need a ge coolant pipe??

and also since iam going to run an hx and it;s only going to be oil fed. i need to plug one of these ports right?? which one would be better to use??


so i went ahead and started preparing for my single turbo ambitions another way..


so... my mk3 supra pedal came today.

and since iam all about trial and error..

does not compute... a member on here waqs trying to sell me one of these for $150.00. i USED to drink cool-aid, but not anymore. i snagged this for 50 shipped so not a real biggie..

i would like to make this work if possible.. i see i need to drill another hole..

i also removed that damn foam foot pedal rest..

i need help people.. give me some insight on how to make this work?? id like to get this in on thurdsay..


Like i said before, iam all about trial and error. But using the mk3 clutch master was too much drilling. since i have the sc300 master and mk3 supra clutch pedal id figure i would give it a shot... THE RESULTS??????????

took me 2 and a half days and some trips to the store.

lets find out..

first you have to remove the panel under the dash. i found this dial,and these wires. is this some spy system??

next up you have to clock the holes on the assembly. we start by removing the stock spacers. an air chizel would make life easier. but since iam a poor sob i had to do ett the hard way..

and like so.

now here comes the tricky part. you have to measure where you are going to drill the holes for the master to mate up to the assmbly. you "WILL" use the oem master template under the dash.

so you will have to clock the master in the upright position on the clutch assembly.

now it's time to move onto to the body. i said you WILL use the stock cut outs. cut away the foam real good so you can get to your work area..

the regular drill and then a hole saw set will make this a breeze.

now after the hole is made we test fit where the master will sit.

after a lot of test tries, the final formula to make this work is 

-X3 half inch steel spacers 

-x3 locking nuts

-x1 fully threaded bolt. 

-x1 bolt fastener with locking clevis pin(got this from lowes).

i got these other parts from ace hardware as loews bolt selection sucked.

the only real problem was on the left side on the assmebly after it was mounted. seems only a thin walled 13mm socket would clear to tighten it down. so i used a spacer to make the head of the nut more easier to reach.

pictured below is the extended bolt i brought. you only need one side as the left is harder to get to and appears to have less thread head(on the regular bolt) than the extended one..

you will put the nut on once the master is on the wall.

the next problem is the pedal main spring was brushing against these wires. can't move the fuse box so time to improvise..


well the verdict is??? the mk3 supra clutch pedal will fit. some mods but better with a sc300 master cyl. the pedal does go all the way down to the floor. why??? because there is no pressure line or fluid hooked up. iam confident i have enough pedal travel for the clutch engage.

if not i will just make the contact bolt longer. i plan on cutting off the brake pedal to make more room and space the clutch pedal....

so now since iam under the dash i go to install my camry throttle cable.. i get under the dash on the console side. and i see this black box ziptied to a bar. wait they don't ziptie stuff like that from the factory. behold there is an alarm system

who ever installd this was very detailed. and there is a cluster **** of wires under this dash. i would not want to wire in an alarm system looking at all that crap....

so the camry throttle cable really is longer(duh).

so guyz??? what is this, a speed limiter?? it has a wire comming out of it.

so i take the center console apart. and ive never seen som many damn plugs on one unit before??? wtf do all these plugs go to? removed the car phone charger, and finally the damn auto shifter. the far is finally getting a 5spd personality..

iam selling my oem machima stero. it works. $50.00+ship

so i checked on the fuel tank, now mind you this car has been sitting for a year and a half +. so the fuel is poo brown(not doo-doo brown, just light poo). and the fuel pump looks like a wally. i thought a big v8 would have a larger oem unit?

and finally i got the centr console off. can someone tell me how much and where i have to cut for the shifter??? iam using a sc300 w58 1993 approx. so i don't have the super extended handle.

so next up is removing the bumper cover. then it's back to work on the engine..


so started taking this damn bumper off. i thought it would be an hr job. the bolt diagram makes it look so easy.. well it's not going into it's 2nd day of trying to get this off tomorrow. the nights are getting colder now so my work time has been cut shorter now(sad face).

these damn clips were annoying. iam going to replace them with zipties so i don't need them

took some time out to do a side by side comparo fo the stock fogs and the odessey fogs iam gonna use. i have to do some cutting but looks like it will work...

so iam putting these stockers up for sale . uncracked or yellow. $70.00 beans plus shipping.


so i finally finally got this damn bumper off. these plastic clips are a nightmare. iam going to replace them with the ones that actually screw in.

done with shell for now. next is get it to the car wash, and fit up a intercooler kit.

iam also selling the stock hi beam lamps. iam getting some e-nay ones instead. so letting these go for $80.00+shp.


so, got another shirt to show my jdm madness for the toyota life..

and onto hard parts stuff!!! finally got my e-fay high beams in. mocked them up to my "naked" front of my sc/

and i started my process of painting the housing on my headlights black. i find it easier to do x2 different minutes of 6 at 300 degrees. i used a flat tip screwdriver to peel them apart..

got them, both apart. and will show more pics of this when i start painting them in "gloss" black!!


okay so now i cleaned up the headlight housing and gave it a spray..

after 2 coats doused it with some acrilic enamel.

so heres my question cl people. to the folks that have done this mod. do i spray this black also??? or do i leave it as it is?? will spraying it reduce visibility??


so what happend was............

was browsing craigs list, why because i always do looking for a break... and i found one..

reporetly off a 92 cummings. snagged this hx h1c(an old hx35) for a cool 100 bones.

0 i mean 0 shaft play. dosen't appear to had been leaking oil and looks overall like a solid turbo.

bigger than in the pics hard to imagine a simple 40 bigger than this. hoping to slap this on my 1jz and make some real hp.

but for the time being, iam pretty sure this is going to max out the stock injectors..


HELP HELP HELP!!! quick people. in a few hrs iam going to pull the damper bolt off this bad boy..

what i need to know is, is this top dead center??

iam pretty sure it is but just have to confirm???


well finally completed the chapter of (darking my eyes). wasn't hard really. i do need to replace my glass as it's faded beyond whatever some lens bright crap claims it can do.

so i got some lenz bright from advance and i figured id give it a try. not the one you put on the end of a drill this one you get a sponge and you have to apply by hand.. this is before..

and here's after..

yep still foggy as ****. the glass is aged and needs to be replaced...

so my motor set came with traction control meaning an extra butterfly i didn't need. i took out the plate. and had my good friend austin cut,weld the rest..

looked better than anything i could had done. austin is a big help. 

so next week i will receive/install my 3" catback exhaust..


so i ordered up a 3" 240sx exhaust like the one i have on my s13. i figured mounting points aside and some min-fabbing this would be an easy conversion.And the fact that iam doing a single let's try this. 

i know there are e-gay supra kits but i got this one at half thier price. So digging around and removing the heat shield on the left side. i noticed the mount holding this was rusted to ****.

i have a front sensor also iam going to remount. i don't think this was working when i got the car. but hopefully i can get it running and save me some coin. Wonder how this k-40 stacks up against a valentine one??

so mocking up an idea on how i want this to look.

so i had to remove the tow bracket on the right side for cleareance issues. then this gory-hole appeared.

then i showed that ***** who's boss.

so it's a 240sx right?? so why not get a 240sx mounting bracket..

looks like the plan is working so far. a quick trip to ace hardware, then a prompt raping of my ******* of $12 for these fkn bolts.

i had to cut away some of the bumper for a clear shot of the bolts.

more nissan-******ry. sourced a ser exhaust hangar and a long doughnut.

had to cut this rod, as it was facing the wrong way. will save it for my exhaust guy to make majic.


OH NOES!!! IT'S TOO LONG(thats what she said,"oh my cervix"). Well have to take some inches off.

and heres the new mounting point of my rear sensor

well my exhaust guy has some small tweaks to do..

i did this because i wanted a "floating" idea on how where my exhaust would sit. the front is being held up my zip ties at the moment. i plan on getting a 3" test pipe,cutting it in the middle and extending it with gauged steel. then cutting a hollow cat and welding that together. 

not sure how long i need from the end of my v-band dp to the catback system??

so today we fabbed up a mount for the powersteer resv. digging in my parts bin and?? yes more nissan-******ry.

used the 3rd brakelight bracket. and worked like a charm.


got this kit from e-gay for a reasonable price, full 3" set. my first bar and plate ic. Iam used to bending up tube and fin, so we will see if there is any real cooling difference as i will be purschasing a ir temp gun.

The box was big and the core was undamaged. they skipped out on the brackets that nevet seem to fit that i always get from the e-motors unit.

so the fun part or measuring begins. Luckily the sc has mucho room in the front for an ic..

i would had liked to cut the aluminum support. But i didn't have to really.Iam gonna modify my bumper and cut out the middle bottom line for better air flow. that and add the plastic under car shrowds back on..

so i needed some metal strips. and i had some kinda thick guaged steel in the parts bin.

not having a chop saw made me have to work on this **** for 2 hrs. i hat cutting this stuff up.

so there was "initially" a clearance issue with where i wanted to mount the screws on the body. i didn't know at first. but the headlight bracket frame does come off via 3 screws on each side.. Before that i used this sucker..

but i later had to use a different drill for the tap.. so this is where i was drilling

and the finished product

after some measuring it's not perfect but it will work..

the "non-perfect" part is i have to remove my left tow hook(the right one can stay in place).

and after 2 days and lots of cursing the box is mounted. 

i kinda mocked up how and where i want my ic piping to go.. but to my suprise i need some additional couplers..

-3"to 3" 90 deg--- for the bend to the turbo under the car

-2.5" to 3" straight reducer---from the intake mani to the turbo piping

-2" to 3" 90 deg--from the turbo to the ic piping

not a big deal but a complete kit is never complete.

next up draining the almost 2 year old fuel out of my tank.


so the 2jz manifold does not work on the 1jz(ouch!). so ordered the right one and will be here next week. But the down pipe came in..

running a full 3" setup. i measured the hotside of the turbo wrong before.

so i need a reducer. Luckily ebay has one i need with the flanges..

so that and a 2.5 clamp will be here next week. 

went ahead and got the bov flange welded.

and the tranny mount plugged and powdercoated by my point man autisn!!


so i found out the other day what the real size of my hotside is... no it's not a t4 like i thought it was..

and it's not a t6 either...

hc1(left) hx30w(right)

you really can't tell by the pics as the h1c looks bigger than the 30 flange.. but

t3 gasket..



so last week i got my manifold in and my adapter flange also because apparently they don't make t3 flanges for the 1jz. and the adapter flange was a little off.(go ebay)

i had to dremel 2 holes to get it to slide down.

and locktited these bolts

had to take my manifold up to mr austin to get braced. and the wg flange to get clocked and welded back facing the wrong direction(thanks again ebay).

so in the mean time since i have some mk4 supra seats on the way i was gonna chuck the stock boat ancors of stockers. but i wanted the rails so i could use some aftermarket seats or sell them later on. getting these things out were a freaking pain. luckily i got a chance to use my dual saw for the first time..

didn't see any easy to remove bolts and there was a motor on each leg that kep it there so had to cut the side of the tracks and excrete them.

and viola. i will be selling these pupies for $90 bones..

SO came into this 2 car garage here in town iam renting. my first 2 car garage and very spacious. with things like these who the **** needs kids??


update update update!! been a busy week i don't have enough time in the day or arms on my body.. but first!!!!

i got my wastegate mounted and i had this gasket(on the left). do i need it??

so thanks to the folks at ebay almost is good enough.. the holes in my t3-t4 adapter (almost) matched up perfectly. but i had to make them (perfectly) match up thanks to mr drill and dremel.

i was going to initially use the stock turbos so i drilled out the oil return port to fit the larger stock screws. well that fell through so i had to make more adjustments.

drilled out the an adapter to make fit. had this laying around from my rb swap and was suprised it fit.

and done.

was kinda nervous because when i tapped and drilled the holes for the bolts the hole went straight through to the oil pan on each one. so put some fipk on the back of the mounting bolt holes..

so next up since i have a garden hose at my disposal i finally cleaned out the engine bay. it was clean for it's condition when i got it before the engine pull. but sitting for 2 years and spilling some fluid in it does take it's toll..

so dirty mouth.

got a wire brush for my dremel and cleaned up the carbon on the hotside of this baby.

then it was a test mockup on how much cleareance i would have between the exhaust and tranny.

looks good to me..

after much debate and speculation i decided to finally go with the front oil feed.

like the title states i need a bridge. brooklyn is sold already.

combine the wg dp. had to eyeball and mark to get it just right.

picked this up because wrapping it up keeps you safe.

also picked this up from the dollar store.

was going to use the metal wire to tie up my turbo sleve but this did not workout.

well got my bridge!!

my hole appears to be too small. but i hope it's enough to work properly.

and pre-wrap mock up

heres my fleabay 1jz mani. no i had those braces done after i brought it(awesome welder austin).

using these mani's you need to cut off the 2 lower center exhaust mani studs to get it to fit.

so i started wrapping the exhaust manifold. not one of my favorite tasks but it had to be done.

there's wrap that you have to soak and some that you don't soak. this is my first exp with the first one..

first i did the individual runners then i wrapped the rest.

came with 50 feet and i had extra left over if i wanted to finish the dp..

and there are the bolts that needed cut/trimming. the 2 most rear lower studs needed trimming for a flush fit. also the wastegate flange needed to be cut and clocked to face the dp. not too terrably bad for $160.00 but defietnly not a perfect fit.

my wastegate needed some trimming.

it was just resting on the oil alum barely. so i decided to grind it down a little.

and heres the finished result.

it was just on these 2 fins. so now there is a gap between that and the oil pan which what i was aiming for.

so went to the junkyard and scroed this lucky find for almost nothing!!!

they WERE on the 94-94 avalons only!! I keep finding model years from 96+. but i really lucked out on this one.. also picked up a 95 corolla 5 spd shift knob(grey) and that fit my sc w58. i also picked up a nissan 5spd shifter boot to fabb up for the sc.

so my mk4 jdm supra seats came!!!

hard to get, but perfect fit.

since they are real jdm seats, the power seat(yes only one) is on the passenger side..

now i have to say compared to the sc3/4 seats..... well there is no comparison. these seats are prob less than half the weight of the boat ancors of seats i chopped up last week(and iam talking about the power one). 

they sit low which is good for me. and are in great condition for $340 shipped.(go ebay)

iam going to remove the skins and throw them in the washer this week(hopefully).

so wiring up the passenger seat because it is power and i wan't to keep it working won't be hard.

yes it does work. what WILL be hard is splicing them into the usdm harness(or will it be)??

vs usdm plug

so lubbing up my turbo to bump nasties again.

and iam running my oil feed line on the engine puller bracket thingy. and showing my support for breast cancer(save the big ta-tas)

and as it sits now!!!


so earlier this week i started on reinstalling my headlights and fabbing up my front bumper..

i waned to cut the center line to allow more air and to view the intercooler better.

since my bumper really isn't haggard and the webbing in the paint is there but not that bad. i wanted to start fabbing up some true yellow aftermarket foglamps from a early model honda odessy.

they didn't come out great and need some tweaking and i might just take the bumper to a damn body guy to get it looking nice.

and finally i still love ebay. the highbeam lights do work. but you need to remove the oem clips, other wise they will not snap in.


so all has been quiet in the lab really. working on the s13 and whatnot. waiting on more parts to get this **** going..

removed my old badges since this is no longer a lexus now.

anyone know of a damage the paint free way to remove this sticky stuff??

and it sits waiting for parts.

so last night seen a craigslist ad for some stock supra wheels. clicked on it and they were mk4's. looked further and they were the tt 17's. the guy wanted 200 with center caps. well he couldnt find them so i got them for 150.00. i have some pbm lugs that the spacers wouldnt fit on anyway. but still

and today my aristo 444cc injectors came in.


so went to the junkyard yesterday here in kcmo. it was so empty, like literally there were no cars. so in the corner hiding with a black exterior was a sc300.

the engine was gone as now i need the mounts from that car. but the driveshaft was there.

so i pulled the sob and payed $44.00 beans for it.Cleaned it up after getting back to the lab.

so i hear the splines will fit the w58 tranny. but the front shaft is too short.My plan was to get the front portion lengthed at a local driveshaft shop that charges $2 per inch. 

But again it's just that the ds isn't long enough right??

Wrong!!! seems that it won't go into the tranny all the way. i can only get like the first 2 inches in then it stops.. so whats the deal with this lexus people??


so, no new updates really. just acquiring some parts to do the damn thing. got a package comming from driftmotion next week. and the tranny should be ready to be bolted on,and the water pump can be changed now. 

also got these..


also $140.00

iam hoping these are the right ones/year i need. but after some test mocking i think these are the ones.

my f1 clutch kit came in

and picked up a spare sc300 gauge cluster for a few beans at the local junkyard.. thinking about selling..

And that is all for now..


well after a clip/throw out bearing debacle THANK YOU JOE-BFLATSHARP!!

i was having and finally got figured out. 

got my r-154 tranny at a good deal shipped from a clublexus member..MARK!!! 1992 SC400

it's from a mk3 turbo supra so the bellhousing is useless and the shifter housing needs to be extended..

so to get this sucker running in my car will cost an additional $1,100.00+ (yes that much) heres what i need to make it happen

^^both cheaper than driftmotion

and some misc parts from drift motion. i do plan on saving some coin by getting my pressure plate bolts from ace hardware like i did for my w58.

but getting this "almost" bulletproof tranny is not cheap. and will wait till i grenade this w58(hoping that dosen't happen). is there a way to just exchange the guts into the different housings??


so, to my dismay i was about to fork over $50+ for a tranny mount. then mark told me advance sells them for.......

$8.00 bucks. so i was like holy ****!!! 

looks just like the oem one also.

so more shocking was the price of a knock sensor $102 at autozone. and i need 2 of these. broke one off so used the ones from my spare ge engine(hope that works).

so went to the kc junkyard today. and suprise suprise out of nowhere there was a mk3 supra. okay no big deal. opened the hood and spied a clutch master cylinder!!!

tranny and driveshaft was all there. so scored the front part for $25.00 beans(go me).

perfect fit. the way it ought to be.

comparing the w58 and the shorter sc300

and heres my bastardizied driveshaft finally.

so i was hoping by some pure luck the yoke on the w58 would also fit on the r154??

didn't happen. but by chance before i put the sc300 front half in the garbage pile i gave it a shot!!

perfect. so i might just change yokes when/if i slip in the 154 to save lot's of coin.

stay tuned, now all i wait on is my harness and a radiator and it will be getting inserted!!


so, ive gotten alot of stuff done. need to get a lot more done. and iam getting tired of this damn car.. still no new harddrive and my netbook is slower than aids sometimes. so heres whats been going on..

got my flywheel resurfaced..

and called up west covina and got a t3 turbo gasket and a ss clutch line.

apparently the bolts i got from fastenal didn't work. they appeared to be the right thread. but when tq-ing down the f-wheel they didn't want to cooperate.

so then i went to the "stealership" hoping that by some crazy luck i could get some oem bolts on the cheap.. well i found a set for $28. or did i?? 

specifically told this **** i need them for a w58 out of a mk4 supra.

well guess what mom, they weren't the right ones.

so what makes this parts manager a ****, is he won't return them and i don't know what the eff these bolts go to. so yea i got raped for 30 beans..


so fed up i did whaT I Should had done in the first place..

i got these. $30 bucks and they actually work.



bam!!! now were cooking(meth)

got to make it tight..

now to change the water pump.

^^ i "temp" reinstalled the one that came with the engine. it was weak. i got a brand new one and replaced it later.

^^pressing it

^^ used a rivet for tension

the only thing worse than a dry woman, is a dry car. so i need my lube!!

iam going to run water for coolant now till i get my radiator system figured out. then i sill spring for some good

so initally i thought a mk4tt supra fan belt would fit the 1jz.


so then had to do some measurements. and after 2 trips we found a winner!!

then after ordering and delivery. my mk4 supra radiator came in.

2 core aluminum. my experience with these are good.

also ordered a knock off is300 radiator fan.

to make it work had to fabb some brackets!!!

!!! come to find out later on, the turbo pipe on the intake side can't clear because of this fan assembly. slim dual 14" fans will be here next week!!!

adding the finishing touches on my turbo return line.

austin my good friend and super welder fabbed me up a t3 mani plate.

this reduces turbo height and eliminates that gay adapter i had.


SO met a fellow off cl forums. account 2x

and this guy does the best harnesses for the cheapest price.. mailed him my usdm and jdm harness. and since this engine is froma chaser it is the hardest to convert. asked him to take his time as i wasn't in rush to need it back at the time. 

but got it back and all the plugs/wires are the perfect distance. and everything was an easy plug and play.



and here now!!

there are some things that people are really good at. wiring isn't my forte. and id probably kill myself if i had to wire up a harness. wiring diagrams i don't get. now other engine/mechanical related stuff i can do. but wiring. i will always have to pay some genius to figure that out for me. but again this is really good work!!

again the installation was self explainatory. seeing as where everything goes. this was much easier than taking it off the first time.

changing my alt plug from circle to oval

have no idea where these vacuam lines go. so for now going to plug them.

so, with some help from the wall, i got the tranny mated to it's new engine.

fittiment issues on the exhaust setup. but still not bad for a eyball and approx guess.

peek-a-boo blue

and my r-154 tranny in wait till i can shake a money tree for a bellhousing.


it's time to walk the plank.

then after 2 hrs and help from 2 other guys.

finally after 2 years the damn thing is in..

then i had to make a hole for the tranny. looking at it this hump is there for a reason.

correction "was" there

so iam fishing around for the positive cable. is this it you sc guys??

my tranny corssmember isn't looking right. fishing for the right hole pattern is harder due to the non flat surface.

i have another one though. and looks like i have to drill out holes in the body further up.

but i got the engine all wired up (sans the positive/neg cables).

and it looks like iam going to have to fabb the ecu floor cover.

had to remove the ashtray. and cut a center support to fit the shifter. but won't know for certian how it's gonna sit till i get the shifter in permanently.

cleaned up all the interior pieces.

the engine looks at home!!!

had to get the water/heater tube modified.(thanks austin)

so, on this puppy i need a 90 deg bend. 

so, thanks to the folks at toyota!!! their interior carpet on these cars are so easy to remove. and mines had coffee stains and whatnot. so of course iam going to take it out and steam clean it.

wasn't much gunk/change on the floorboard.

found the stock sc400 o2 sensor wires.

and heres the after pics. you can get a look at the carpet before at the start of this thread 

so FML!!! forgot i don't have a map sensor. will call the engine shipper and ask if it was supposted to come with one. in the mean time i went to the junkyard and got some map sensors from corollas and some camrys.

iam new to this map stuff. but can i use any of these just to get the car running??

also after dropping my engine in. the car got a nasty front right lean.

so scooped this up from a lower mileage sc300 in hopes of remedying that.

finally i got around to changing that damn fuel filter. mind you i siphoned the gas tank dry. so this was logicall. the replacement was 20 beans at the zone. and i have to warn you.


I used a cresent wrench and a vice grip on the lines(yea didn't have to re-flare-this time). 

took about an hour.

i swear this is the oem fuel filter. it smelled like wtf to the 7th power.

and heres the new one.


so time-time for more updates. for those 2% who is actually interested in my swap. seeing as there is 17,000000 people doing swaps on thier sc's.

so got around to getting the driveshaft figured out. used the sc300 center carrier bearing on the w58(mk3 supra) front shaft. it can be done by a driveshaft shop. and it was done for 10 beans. so with that mounted up it was time to add tranny fluid.

much easier than using a siphon pump. i have a metal plate for the cutout sections in the middle. but i still need a rubber boot for the shifter. as the s13 one i had didn't seal properly.

onto the seats. theve been sitting around forever it seems. i scored these rhd jdm seats. they were dirty. so just like i did with my s14 seats i de-ringged them and tossed the fabric in the wash. 

then got some hog rings and reapplied the skin. came out sweet. and makes the car smell way better.

got my actuall fan setup(that fits).

running 2 pullers. will see how cool they keep the rad??

so in running the fuel feed line. seems the stock one is high pressure and had threaded lines. i decided to run rubber hose as my rb feed line is the same way.

and heres the sc300 high press powersteering line..

with some manuvering it also fits the sc400 rack+1jz pump. 

i can't keep these breather nipples(both in good shape) for the life of me. hopefully i can get by with just one on.

and this cruved hose is needed for the back of the engine. another $10 investment.


so my icebox was too low. had to remove the front bumper and make some new mounts. and also ran the piping to measure clearance and whatnot.

this metal is really hard to cut. thanks for the dual saw.

a slight lean. but good enough.

it's up there now.

iam tucking.

so sadly (for now) i have removed the ac components minus the compressor(will do that later). the compatability between the 300 and 400 lines/firewall/etc was not working out for me.

i still have the 300 lines. and might try again in the future to make this work. i really did want this car to have ac.

took the condensor core out and now this weird gap remains. need to find some really good radiator brackets..

so now i have to redrill another tranny mount(i have a spare).

-need to get some intercooler piping welded

-need to get my bov rewelded did it too soon

-an optimum battery would be nice.

-hack downpipe to be able to drive to exhaust guy

and other than that iirc i have no major mods left on this rig. just some missing important pieces(like an o2 sensor mod and a damn map sensor).

also if anyone out there in tv land can help me???

i have 3 ports on my wastegate

where do they go?? iam running a reference on my coldside. and no boost controller yet. so yes help is needed guys..


so my blitz turbo-timer harness came in from europe(ubber rare for the sc in u.s.).

wiring it in is a snap now.

got the silicone rad hoses hooked up and test filled with water. don't forget to plug this tt water port.

and on the lower hose appears to be a cut in the bottom of the lower hose. so being that finding a local tt rad hose is like impossible. i had to improvise.

that did fix the leak. but very coincidential the same thing happend to the upper hose also(iam thinking this set was rigged).

so re-doing the throttle cable. the #3 camry (4cyl) cable was about an inch too short. so i tried out the #4(6 cyl) cable instead this time.

it appears that the 4 is a bit longer than the 3. will it fit..

BAM!!!! perfect fit. I love saving some coin.

and time for my final welding/fab of my intercooler piping..

heres the box of parts.

and after. the welds are perfect and the fittiment is spot on. still i hate math.

took forever to find someone to weld cast aluminum. but finally got it done.

tried starting the car to no avail so far. so with some recommendations went ahead and made 2 grounds.

and another behind the block

and i already have 2 on the intake manifold.

so went to the store yesterday, and got some hoses i needed to plug this puppy up. i think i have plugged all the holes that havent been used (cans the valve cover one.)

so, i removed this

and iam going to install this.

apparently the last one in advance in the country on clearance. payes $1.65 after tax.

so iam going to stick that here.

but first i need to do this.

and tada.

and i hooked up my wastegate. hopefully this is the right way.

so it's midnight. and your damn car won't start. what do you do?? 


very disapointed at these numbers. who knows how long the engine has sat. and i was told after warmup the rings expand. heres the lowdown.








iam tired of these damn low compression jdm engines. but dosen't explain why it wont start. the plugs are clean like fresh out the box. so iam not missing spark because there not fouled right??

it feels like the engine isn't getting fuel. idk. after the proper map sensor gets here(got a 4 bar). then i can do some more trouble shooting!!


so it's been a while. been troubleshooting why my damn car won't start. and viola. I didn't plug an important plug in. why?? because the sob was hiding in the firewall out of sight. so pretty much my car has been ready to run for over a month now. but hey, **** happens. so, on with the show.

now trying to crank 3 weeks of work out in the last 3 days.

i ordered/received my 4 bar map sensor. 

only to be told it won't work for a stock ecu. i later found a 1jz stock map sensor with low miles from a member on c.l. go me.

i wasn't happy at all with my current turbo manifold. so i found one locally sold on ebay. i was actually going to pick up this item before. but thinking i had a t4 instead of t3 flange i missed. now it's time to make up

the welds are 100x better and i don't have to cut any exhaust studs for it to fit.

i picked up some lower mileage spark coils thinking that was the issue. got them from gerb from c.l. great guy to deal with.

so my stock ones that came with my engine are going up for sale if anyone is interested. very cheap not looking to get rich off them.

finally got a innovate and finally got it shipped to me.

at the time i needed a longer o2 sensor plug. the stocker was too short.

using the plug wires from the sc400 this black one looks kinda weird.

so i merged and heatshrinked longer wires. not sure of the condition as this o2 came with my motorset.

since innovate is here i can get to work on my gauges.(only need 2)

running wires into the car. found this nasty suprise

hooking up the innovate. needed a ref since these damn things have so many grounds. But luckily the 13 has one.

sometimes i feel like a blood.

sometimes i feel like crypting it

so, since my tranny mount bracket was total ass. i needed to re do it. instead of the cluster **** if 4 bolts. 2 should suffice.

so i pulled this heatwrap off my old manifold. can i reuse this stuff?? of after it's been wet one time i won't be effictive??

and pulling the manifold off in the engine isn't easy. but it's also not that hard.

so a good buddy of mine got a stick welder. and i needed some part's welded so here we go.(he's not a pro)

went to lowes. and i got this braced for impact.

exhaust woes.

so i need the wg flange adjusted.

so after taping and multiple removals, installs.

thats what you wan't a sc swap.

well it's video time


so guys, now doing the exhaust. i got my mani braced. and well from the pic do you think the metal return line is to close to one of the braces??


so dipping further into this exhaust debacle. i decided to finally get a smaller hotside for my turbine wheel.

there were no ledgible stamping on the iron to tell me what cfm's the original one was. so last minute i went to a local diesel shop and come to find out it was a 18. and 21 was the biggest for the non wastegated h1c. 

so i was either going to pick up this item.

or get the used 16 for 100 beans. i decided on the later just to try it out. and to used something new for an downpipe adapter.

the new one does look notably smaller. not too crazy like the 9cfm i was going to get though. also had to cut off one of my mani braces as it was too close to the turbo return line.

so back with this crap again. i purchased a sc300 ac condensor(not compressor) from the junkyard for $18.00 beans. placed it inside the car(perfect fit of course). but wait!!!

holy ****. threw away all the damn bolts.. now it's time to hit up the jy again tomorrow i guess. but still need that damn line for a sc400.

in other news. any idea if this black tube can be repaired??

i didn't think 2x about it when i was pulling the engine and it snapped, now.....


more getting hosed on this air conditiong line crap.

so figuring out that the earlier sc300 tubes wouldn't work and the fact that my black tube was broken. i figured id try dremeling one of the port bolt's to try to make it work.

no dice. and the fact that this tube was broke.

so i pretty much needed a new evap core. where the hell do i find one??

LUCKILY!! i went to the u pull it on omaha n.e. and they had a 1994 sc"300" there. heres where the crazy starts. the evap is hidden under the dashboard on the passenger side obvilously.

lots of philips head screws to take out. and here's the evap i need.

these things get very very dirty. dosen't look like they are a servicable item. so i can just imagine how my 180k mile evap looks?

found a guy with a hacksaw and ended up with this finished product

and this has an intact black pipe and all i need. the crazy part is this is the same size as my original 400. wht the fak did lexus make things so complicated between models??

so i got some o-rings most of them don't fit. but you can't go wrong with 5 bucks.

so heres some pics and comparisons of the sc300 condensor from a 94 and from a earlier model(with the red o-rings).

the 94 can is on the right

and here's the condensor, looks the same but really not.

and heres the ports that go directly to the firewall. you see the difference. looks similar. but no no no.

well i was wroking on gently and carefully

bending the ac pipes to fit.

kinks are bad for business.

the pita was getting these pipes around the intercooler pipes. And here they are buttoned up.

well iam not done hoooking up the lines,and don't know if there are leaks yet. and have to replace the condensor neck. but what have we learned so far.

-sc400 lines with a 2jz swap of any kind will work to an extent

-you must use your same year condensor lines to make it work. you can use the same condensor and firewall port. but if in a sc400 you need the 300 lines from the condensor to the firewall.

this was a pita but almost over. 

now in other news.

so ive been all over the place trying to get this damn car situated. finally got it running and the engine in. so took a test drive in this vid. heres was the status during shooting

-not sure if o2 sensor was hooked up. i spliced it to make it longer so maybe i effed up on that

-no downpipe off the turbo/no exhaust

-no hood

-stock fuel pump

-hc1/hx35 with a super laggy 18cfm hotside

feels like it's slow as shat. i didn't get into 5th gear. but there was just no "oh ****" pull

iam thinking i might have a wastegate port plugged that shouldn't be plugged??


a. downpipe isn't complete so i don't have a proper reading from the jump

b. i had both ports plugged on my wastegate. hence why i think i didn't get a good full or boost at all.

i should be able to try this again properly on monday.


well i finally got around to testing how much god hates me. the moment of truth....

the "warmed up engine" compression test.. and heres the numbers.

------------------------------back of engine------------------------------

6- 170

5- 175

4- 175

3- 175

2- 180

1- 180

--------------------------front of engine----------------------------

This is such A big relief knowing now i have a excellent healthy engine. Now it's on to more mods/tuning/lsx killings!!


so, where was i???? oh yea!!!

so i got the car running and noticed some poo looking liquid in the wastegate and lightly coated around the inside of the exhaust tubing. the wet **** looked like this..

and further more in the wastegate itself.

so iam thinking "holy ****" the damn turbo is eating my oil. i did noticed some of the oil was slightly missing when i ppulled the dipstick. mind you i wasn't running the engine for too long.

so i tracked down a restricter.

then i remembered the seller telling me that they did put some crap in the cylinders to keep corosion away due to it being around the salt water. and come to think of it. i did see some liquid stuff in some of the cylinders when i was inspecting it last year.

But a buddy of mine was convinced it was my valve seals. hence why i did my "hot" compression test.

looking at this wet cylinder thinking it was also the valve seals too(till the poo stopped).

so as of now there is no more poo just condensation from a healthy engine. and seems that my oil level is consistant now.

so cleaning that poo up. i cracked open my cheapo wastegate. the mechanics are really simple. which now i can understand how even the cheapo ones work without a hitch..

oh wait!!! spoke too soon. see the hairline. but dosen't look like it will be a problem for now. will have to remove and take to an aluminum welder to get patched up. will prob do that when i get a better spring. don't know how many psi this one is. but iam guessing around 6-8(very sad).

so, finally got around to springing for a new damn windshield!!! It's great to be looking out a brand new one that isn't cracked/pitted

so the deal with my driver side window??

finally got that fu#k$r to work!! seems the button is shorted. and needs to be pressed down hard and at an angle for the window to to up. so pulled the door for nothing!!




This has to be the *****test door panels ever made. they are so cheap and have no screw support. iam verry dissapointed lexus skimpped out on these when the damn car fetches 50k new.

o right now me and a buddy of mines that welds are fabbing up a exhaust for this. not easy at all and very tedious.

heres what the downpipe looks like now. it's seen better days. but it's just a measuring,cut,weld job. that i hope to finish this week.

in other news. i was running really LEAN last week when i recirced my wg tube into my exhaust(like 21 afr). iam running the stock fuel pump. so i ordered a wally and it should be here tomorrow.

and i got a aero-fpr on the way this week with some lowering springs. stay tuned.


so, a few weeks ago i had a bright idea for a short shifter. so i hacked up my sc300 shifter. but before that i did a comparo. this is the one for my mk3 r154 supra tranny on the left.

so then i began hacking away. then i find out there is a rubber lining inside the damn shifter. so after all morning hot-footing around because of this cluster **** i found myself in.

got my finished product.

had to put a scred through it to secure it so no pop off during driving. looks like ****. but idk. when i get my shifter boot hopefully that will cover the weld/surgery up.

so since ive had this car, there has been a cluster **** of wires underneath my ds plastic panel. they were attached to this dial box. after 2 years of not sure what the hell they went to, i finally pulled them and removed them.

they looked like speaker wires. but come to find out, they were attached to the sensors for my ancient radar/jammer system. the connections looked like arse anyway. so shouldn't be missed (weight reduction!!)

and yesterday finishing up my ac lines install. ordered a new evap core. this whole ac system has been a pain in my pecker.

but luckily i have all the lines buttoned up. now for just a leak test, then fill with freon and enjoy the cold.


so, a few days ago i ordered a wally. and it got here in no time..

removing and installing this was actually a snap and actually enjoyable. But heres a side by side with the stock v8 one.

and for when i feel like running a 12v mod and when i don't

hopefully this keeps both sides of the isle happy.

so, been a while, this 3 car **** is very time consuming. alright let's begin.

so tackling one of the most difficult and still ongoing projects of this swap. the damn exhaust. i got a 240sx one and planned to hack it up to make it work. 

i was happy with the results i gotten on my own 240 i wanted to mimic the non raspy serious tone i was going to get on my 1j. This was a cluster ****. luckily my buddy matt is an expert welder. so i coin this a "matt-exhaust"

the jackstands

took about 2 weekends and finally he/we got something that resembles a complete exhaust.

the end result was good. but since then weve had to revise the pipe after the dp and iam probably going to have to go to the exhaust shop for a finalk tweek. But all in all the exhuast i wound up going open dump. and full 3". has a good tone and sounds excellent when you get on it.


so trying to figure out why the hell my car was leaning bad(like 21afr) in idle??

after some deliberation. i decided id check the turbo gasket, for a leak.

well dosen't look like a problem there.

let's "try" to adjust the cas.

nope, how about checking for vacuam leaks??


no dice. so my next (and later on the fix). would be the fpr. i snagged a legit aeromotive a1000 for a good deal. so i had to pick up the 5/16 bung's seeing as switching to a bigger braided line for like a foot or 2 made no real sense.

so save coin,time, and hassle let's keep it rubber.

but, these ****ers were $25 each. so there goes the so so cheap theory.

well thinking i got some tissue sucked up in the valve cover vent. so i removed it to inspect it. looks clean and 0 old gunk in there.

and now i got a new oem o2 sensor off line on the cheap.

so next up was to macguyver a mount for the fpr unit. didn't come with one and even the one it usually comes with wouldn't had sufficed. took me an hr to drill through this with my weak ass drill. then another hr with my buddys cordless drill.

so after a 2nd redux, this is how it's supposted to look.

so since i have a aftermarket unit, it's time to get rid of the stocker piece of c. so finding a m12x1.25 into a 5/16 type bung is almost impossible.

found this cheapo sucker on ebay for 20 beans.

and violia!!

the threads did come out easily, thank goodness. so after chopping around locally. by buddy austin linked me another more/real metal unit.

so i picked up these babies, making fittiment easier.

and picked up some capilars from autozone for less than $160.00 for the pair.

also picked up some front and rear slotted/drilled rotors with ceramic brake pads.

i had to do this 2x. now when putting the front rotors on you need to get ALL OF THE DUST SHIELD off each of the wheel hubs.

like so.

and don't forget to double (thin) washer the top bolts(on each side). when mounting the front ls400 capilars, To clear the rotors.

don't forget to thourghly bleed the brakes after. and you are done!!

and heres the wiring part of it. i got a 7" touch screen and the wiring debacle begins now. 

$20.00 apparently i need this because my sc400 has a amp and i don't need to wire each indivual speaker??

and heres what it looks like wired up

so either my amp is out or something isn't connected right. everything seems to work cept the sound. and my ant dosen't comes up like when i had my stock system. so wth gives???

so,can someone plz tell me what the heck this is???

and this is how it sits. 10 psi max(i need more boost). and some damn coilovers!!.



well since still can't get my daily corolla started. or more like haven't had the time to. the mid-life crisis car known as the sc has taken up the task of daily driver. thanks to the high 4x4 stance it currently has it's been able to manuver and get by the current snowfall that has happend so far.

still some quirks, but all in all the car is growing on me more. hit the scale today and with almost a full tank and me weighed. 


and whenever i pull off this damn thing makes a noise!!

thought about cutting it off. but ill try to bend it first.

other than that the real bane with this car, aside from the rear tires that i need to replace(with the rear supra tt wheels). is the apparent fuel mileage.

apples to apples. the rb-s13 had 3 GALLONS LESS tank capacity. but gets the same as this car. even staying in vacuam and off the boost yields min results.

luckily for now, because of the fiscal cliff gas is "sudo" cheap so the pain is still felt(like anal rape). but not bad(as gang bang).

so it's winter and as an adult with no snowblower, and no subaru, i hate the snow.

shoveling sucks, but has to be done(i need a subaru).

heres a recent pic of the engine and my new breather valve.

and here i am cleaned up at the wash. rocksalt is a cars worse enemy. and looks like iam doing x2 car washes a week.

so day,who knows and still no sound in my damn car. apparently iam not cool enough to snag a sc with all the damn amps in the back. so i drive around with no sound(sucks ballz). so looking for a sc400 unit. i stumbled uppon a ls400 cd changer and amp from the same year as mine. and it is a nak as my car stereo.

these plugs go to the cd changer

and these go to the car

anyone know if a ls400 amp will work?? has anyone out there in tv land tried one?? ive seen some nak sc400 amps online. but some are iffy to just damn wild in price.


so ive acquired some goodies. a rear view back-up camera, and a 17psi wg spring.

and a new model fatt

and also scored a shifter boot+bezel.

it finally looks like a true 5spd.

so, in an unexpected turn of events. i will be fitting a hx super 40 turbo on this 1jz now and selling or shelfing the h1c slug.

here is how i got it, found it on craigslist got it shipped for a steal. apparently it was rebuilt/new.

has new looking shiny parts on it. butt......

looks like salt water imo. 

heres what it looked like after i took the polish wheel to it.

iam going to disassemble the rest of it and clean it up as iam suspect if this is really balanced?? no shaft play and it's not touching the housing, but better safe than sorry.

i was also told this had a t3 housing butt......

curses foiled again. what to do??? get one of these.

but will it fit???

-inner blade-

-outer blade-

we shall see(iam thinking it should work).

and looking at this upgrade for good measure.


so, it's update time!!! 

every now and then i tend to forget i have this bay boy in the corner of my garage.

i never have the time to get that final stripped head bolt off so i can scrap the head and maybe clean up the block. well it's hanging around when/if/just incase/hope not/ the 1jz blows up.

so i ordered a cup holder, as it's the last thing missing from the front of my interior to make it oem complete.

i also pick up some steering rack bushlings on the cheap.

but to my dismay the damn thing dosen't fit.

but, there does look like some hooks for a cupholder. i was informed maybe i have a later model item.

anywhoo this is for sale or trade for the right one.

so it's time to tackle this turbo thing before i fully give my attention to the rb(time remaining as of today, 7 days left).

so i shot up to omaha for a balance as all the places i checked with wanted to play ass games with thier balancing prices.

when to this place called diesel specialty. 

now thats a price you can't beat. but heres where iam confused. some places said they needed the bearings and the shaft/wheels d.s. didn't. he informed me that my shaft did have unreparable bearing scorch. from the previous pics that was evident. so i might be looking for a new shaft in the near future. 

he also told me that i don't have to get the coldside wheel balanced again ever, and that i don't need to assemble it using matchmarks like ive heard from so many people before?? idk. i was told 2ft pounds to tighthen the screw so a quarter turn after finger tight.

so just to recapp i purchased this hotside.

iam sticking with my puny t3 mani for now. and the biggest problem with switching these banded turbo is the fabbing to make it fit. i just finallt got the h1c band to mate and still had a hiss between it during inital startup. and due to the fact i have to outsource my welding. let the new headache begin.

and after a minute with the cutter.

so this is the happy medium i need welded.

and this is what i got. it's not totally on the surface so there is a slight leak. but i have to cut the downpipe(later-on ,again). to get the lips to seal properly.

i had to do some more grinding to get the outside of the v-band lip to be more flush so the clamp could sit right. 

the bullseye clamps left more to be desired. my ebay t3 hotside for my h1c had a better clamp system.

i had to drill a reserve on the coldside seeing as this was originally a external wg not going to the compressor side.

i have to say, the biggest pita thing to do on this was this damn snap ring. it was brand new in the kit i got. so i had to sofeten it up a little to make it fit.

and still after mutiple tries with the vicegrips got that **** on, i didn't like that part of life.

and tada!!! there was more cursing involved and i had to fabb some lower piping. but there it is. 


so got my tires installed on my wheels(trusty walmart). and lifetime balancing!!

so i went ahead and did a mojor noob move!!! the old wheels and tires were 17x7.

apparently i was so busy i didn't see the clearance of the rear brake lines and thought nothing of it. i heard something rubbing on the rear, but i was pressed for time and gassed i finally had nitto's. 

so after a couple of blocks and loss in brake pressure i found out the issue!!


got the car back to the garage and ordered a new set of ss brake lines. i don't need the front ones so iam selling those for $32 beans shipped if anyone is interested!!


so i just got back into town, and i got to work correcting this brake line issue. i ordered a new set and i moved the brake mounting point on the body.

you do that on both sides, they both have the same place where you are going to mount the line. bend the tubr back alittle.

and violia, you have clearance.. use this for wider wheels when you don't have a clue, thank you

after that i installed my custom plates. and also my backup camera.

good to match the 13.


well, it's been quite a while since ive updated this. lack of time and effing with this damn s13 has stolen time away from my thread that none reads pretty much. so lets recap on what I have done to the car since I last posted. 

I finally got some rubbers for the rear wheels. some nitto 555's (non nt1). 275/40/17 if I remember right. had them installed and balanced at the mart.

so after bringing them back to my (then) garage I mounted them on my car and went for a short lived test drive. Short lived because something was rubbing against the wheels

this was the 1st time I actually ran these wheels on the car in the back. so I ordered up some new ss brake lines and cleared them back further this time.

so, now since I was going to drive this car more, I needed beats. I already brought my 2din radio receiver but I had no sound due to no stock amp(searched high and low for one). so I decided to manually run each speaker to the new receiver, cutting out the stock crap. 

I don't remember the exact sizes, but I just replaced the 4 speakers(2 in the door and 2 in the back.) I am not running a amp or another subwoofer(maybe down the line I wlll get a sub). iam not big on car audio I just need some surround sound when iam watching porn on the go(yes really). 

at the time I did this didn't have much monies to donate to this so I cheaped out and went to the sound section at Wal-Mart and got some speakers. I got some indoor speaker wire from best buy to seal the deal. 

the oem door speakers had really had it.

luckily removing them from the plastic housing was a breeze

the wally speakers were a good fit

I had to extend the pig tail harness. 

doing the back is so much easier with the seats out. 

surprisingly the stock amp was intact. I have it for sale if someone wants it.

I reused the back brackets, and the stock ones just collapsed as I touched them.

new is good!!!

run the speaker wire to the front, and that's pretty much it.

yes I could had waited and got a higher end speaker system, bit when it comes to noise iam easy to please. combined with my ebay stereo system total was around $300.00* give or take to give my car some beats. now when iam on the go I can pop in a porno and the time goes by quicker.

so my next major pressing issue is the damn ride total initial estimate of a full suspension including coilovers was about 3k. now it seems iam going to go over that a bit more. 

I picked up these brand new megan super streets for around 900ish shipped. I think I went through sonic motors??

first time with megans myself and they look like they are good quality as does any coilovers when you first open them up.

after 3 easy struts coming out. one was a stubborn *****(iirc the left rear) so I had to hack some of that one up for it to come out. then these went smooth as but-ter

car looks worlds better lowered

then it was off to the alignment and that's where the pain starts again. the eccentric bolt's in the front really didn't want to cooperate. so my buddy ron had other ways.


then I further got ****ed as one of the alum thin tabs broke. 

so after doing as much as he could do, heres the numbers we came up with. 

luckily I don't have any stupid amounts of tire wear up front. I drove to Canada border and back, and put hundreds more miles on the car with this setup. The problem is I have too much neg camber in the front(very noticeable) and on the highway it's not as straight as it should to be.

I need to replace the whole suspension on the front and remove the subframe and get that alum repaired. the parts alone will be around $1,500.00 with the biggest expense the stock lower control arms($500.00 a set iirc). so yea I would like this happen sooner than later. 

in other news I got another mast and I now have an retractable antenna(old school)

so my next issue was the ac system. this was a big cluster **** as I threw out all the sc400 stuff. then come to find out I should had kept all the sc400 stuff. because even the same model has different lines from some model years. so it was a fun-task tracking down all this ****. 

so I ended up with a 94 ac condenser, a sc300 compressor(from my scrap car). and 94 lines(with the black rubber on the connectors). 

I put 2 cans of Freon in the system. my problem is I can't get the ac button to work with my engine. I can put a wire on the ecu to power and get the compressor to kick on. but to make the interior switch work, I was stumped. heres a thread on my ac-struggles

so a couple of weeks ago my daily had to be taken out of service to have maintence done on it. so lucky me and my effing life I had to drive the sc around because it is heavier than the s13 and Iam considering burning the ***** because I have to pull the engine again. 

so with careful maneuvering iam getting around till I got the dialing running again(till the ecu went again).

yes snow sucks with an open diff rwd. 

so this ***** in a truck backs out not paying attention(Not even snow, slick related) and she hits my car. it was a dodge truck with a tow ball on it. rips through my bumper and causes this. 

she claims fault(of course the ***** should had been in the kitchen anyway). and the estimate at the body shop is $2,800.00

so after days on edge deciding if I was going to smash this *****es fender with a hammer. the claim was approved and all is well in the kingdom.

iam looking for a excellent bumper,fender and reasonable priced headlights. I know I can't find green so I will have to go the shop to get the paint done. iam hoping to save some coin and get a aem!!

hey mr gerb. there are a few sc's in the local junkyards here. but iam hoping to find my color but iam sure iam not that lucky. going through the collision place I got the quote at (local car star) their price is $1,500.00

-body labor $530.00-10 hrs

-paint labor $470.00 9and hlf hrs

-paint supplies $300.00 9and half hrs

and if I can find everything I need at the junkyard that is $150.00*

that leaves 1350 and that the exact price of the aem pre-shipping

so heres what irks me. even with the freaking aem I still need a resistor for the injectors if I go low imped, wtf!!!


well my insurance check came and luckily I scored a cheap excellent condition pair of headlights from the junkyard. also got a green bumper from the yard but the same car had a dent in the fender I needed. I have a member on club Lexus. that has one, but a pita to ship so keeping my eyes peeled for a oem green one in the mean time. 

and contemplating on doing a tsx high beam conversion on these minty headlights. 

in the meantime I finally received my black box. 

this is basically 2 Honda boxes made into one. hence why a jumper cable is needed. 

and the placement of this will be a challenge?? it comes with Velcro strips. iam prob going to hack up the oem plastic to make it fit. id rather wrap it in some damn plastic costing so much. 


so nothing much has been going on. some how I uploaded a damn supra map and messed up my pre-loaded 1jz download. i got another map from a member on club lexus. but still won't let me send the map over to the ecu. i really haven't had time to **** around with the aem fully. but hopefully i will get some time after the 9th. and iam going to review all these videos.

anywhoo i ordered a aftermarket ijz intake. i figured since it wasn't that expensive i would take the plunge. 

haven't had a chance to see if the runners match up perfectly or if i need to port them. but other than that it is very light. and has some shavings that needs to be cleaned out. i do like the runners tho. 

apparently in china the work is really cheap.

$25.00 to make, well blow-me-job!!

so next up was a q45 throttle body(or so i thought). after securing one i later found out that it's not a true 90mm.

i think dr. web says it's really 87mm. either way i brought another aftermarket one that you can see the size difference.

the new tb comes with a flange for an exact fit on the mani 

luckily iam going to need that as the original flange bolts don't line up perfectly(just one). 

but spending a couple more bucks is expected with this kind of stuff and not really a big deal imo. 

i was shocked to see the premium that q45 tb's bring nowadays. they didn't used to go for 100.00.

and finally i got ready to get some good head!!!

got these puppies to service my leaky valve stem seals. just going to remove the head and maybe get a head job(leaning towards it). and finish up the mods with some 264 bc cams. 

what about the fuel you say?? well i already got a top feed rail and these babies.


so, been a while, scored some 880cc bosch injectors. 

scored some tt supra center caps

and got some bc cams 264's. 

and finally got the aem started, you need to bypass the fuel pump. iam looking into the relay option as I would like to have the aem control the fuel pump. when I get some damn time tho. 

I need someone wo walk me through how to get the car to idle, I can get it to start but it just dies after a few seconds??


so I got a rip in one of my supra seats. so I need to find an Asian lady that can work with leather. 

also scooped up a lip from the local pick and pull, apparently it's off a Honda


so after over 2 years of not driving straight, and evident sag of the wheels in the front, it is time to do the front suspension so the effing car can steer straight so I can like it more. initially I just wanted to do everything shy of the lca's because those are 500 a set. well I have to get those now too. 

but, this all started when I had to replace my engine cross member.

then it spread like wildfire, or like a gay man at a boy scouts camp. I had to remove and reseal my oil pan because the back was sweating oil. so I picked up these nifty suckers to keep that from happening again.

then I got my bushlings, should I put these in if iam getting brand new arms??

the spindles weren't really a ****ing pain UNTILL....

that upper 22m nut is a fkn pain so I have to go to harbor freight and get a cresent 22mm. 

I will knock the rust off these today and show a after pic, anyone know what that white semen-like stuff is on the abs sensor? is it lithium grease??

so the biggest and worst nightmare of this ordeal is this fkn rh lca!!!

the bolt is seized in the arm so I had to take the whole effing member off.

so not effing cool. now I need to sawzall the bolt apart to get this done

fml, so stay tuned!!

so the biggest and worst nightmare of this ordeal is this fkn rh lca!!!

the bolt is seized in the arm so I had to take the whole effing member off.

That mk4 front upper control arms were different than the sc upper arms?? iirc the mk4 and the sc shared the same engine mount support. apparently not(sad face)

so I ordered some oem front lower arms(getting anal reamed, but a deal at $515 for the pair after tax). so iam hoping those work.

I see that the mk4's arms are longer iam guessing this makes coilover usage easier to alighn??

and finally I have a question can the adjustable bolts in the engine mount/front be used on the back(the black x-member)??

obviously I will be missing an adjustable bolt, but I have a few spare front ones. the rears look SLIGHTLY thicker.

think I can get by with the one on the left?

so after 2 and a half + years of use, think it's time to replace my rotors??


well a lot had happened since my last update. so let's recap!!!

so I got the wrong upper control arms(they were for a mk3). but I later sourced the right ones, and stuffed the uppers with urethane.

I then managed to pick up a sway bar, end links, tie rod ends and boots. 

I then had to proceed to sell my body to come up with the coin for some new lower arms. 

yes I got them ad a hook up (so 5 and change). and NO I couldn't find it in my heart to burn the rubbers out and stick the urethane in these. so they are running the oem rubber.

so finally I was able to install all the parts and get the car moving again. I DO have a rear main leak but since this is my daily now I have to come back to that later on. 

here's the pics of my all new front suspension!!

so pressed for time(I always am) I did some other things in prep of my nyc road trip, like 

-extending my dump pipe(my first weld actually)

- switching out my waste gate for a bigger spring.

-re upholstering my armrest(****ty job but my elbow thanks me).

and doing a fuel pump relay so the pump doesn't rely on the car harness for power(straight to the battery)

then LATER ON. I finally did the resistor jump and I finally had a tach. this triggered my air bag light, which I swiftly covered that and that damn flashing traction control lights with electrical tape!!

so I finally took time to tackle this damn transmission mount issue. this was my latest rendition of the stock 300/400 modded one. 

so I wasn't feeling this fitment. and I was also trying to stop the squeal that sounded like it came from the driveshaft when I always start out in first or a low gear shift.(so ****ing annoying).

I found out I can fab up/use a earlier "82-86" celica 5 speed tranny mount. well I couldn't find a 5 speed mount. but I did find an auto mount which at first looked identical to the manual one. 

so I cut both sides and tried to graft them back together with some additional welding metal, this isn't to look pretty and this is only my 2nd ever welding experience so...

and finished product. yes I know it looks like ****. but guess what??? the welds hold and I put a lot of metal on this to make it sturdy. I do plan to make a leaner one soon. just needed this in the mean time. and still the noise is there. 

that's what ill do in a few weeks

but here is the driveshaft noise!!

so I got to nyc and everything was fine EXCEPT. on my way back, all of sudden my rear tires went to mush(mind you I did get an alignment after doing my front suspension). 



and it was that accursed toe. my alignment guy said he did his best with my rear toe. but the components were worn(20 years plus right)?

so a quick order for some new tires and these bad boys were placed.

sad day because I couldn't get a rear sway bar this round.

well the first and only fitment issue I ran into with these is the traction bar holes were not big enough. they required some enlarging. 

so we get to some more adjustable bolts that were seized in place. luckily I was crafty enough to fix this issue, I brought a new tool-mate.

with this I quickly made mince-meat out of these old hags!!

just say no to rusted/seized adjuster bolts!!!

so I didn't need any of the old bolts as the adjustment is in the arm themselves(as they should be). ao went and brought some new hardened bolts/washers. 

so all was well in the "toe" kingdom of suspension. then off to the alignments rack(2nd time in a month).

here are the numbers I came up with. apparently my front caster is off(says my front right is further than my front left(scratches head). 

still won't ride perfect like my Nissan, wtf gives!!!! heres a comparison by the same tech. 

but fear not!!! I finally located/ordered some front camber plates(go me)

so before I did that toe stuff. I wanted to keep my cabin temps lower. and if you seen what I did to my shifter tunnel you know it was inadequate for long term use. so with my new welding powers. I rolled back the carpet, made a template of a cutout, and got to work. 

got rid of the paint so template could adhere. 

and here is the finished product.

while I was at it I decided to make a short shifter. 

so this shifter was a TEAM effort. as I did the top/thread weld and my local welder guy finished the rest. 

and iam super happy. it feels great and no more "iam a trucker" complex!!!

so I was in pa last week and there was an accident, and the cars were allowed to go back on the highway on the shoulder. anyway the semis in the right lane didn't move enough and I creamed a rock on the shoulder. didn't see this till I got to Indiana. 

and finally there is some rust boiling here. you guys think I should just replace the whole panel? or cut the rust, and pull out the ding??


holy ****!! ben a while since ive updated. well been using this as the daily since the s13 has been down for a while. Been traveling back and forth from Missouri to nyc and all points in between. put about 23k miles on swap since completed. - SO LETS RE-CAP!

so I had to re-do the front upper arms. brought and installed the megan front upper camber arms. I must say they are kick *** quality and I have 0 problems out of them(make sure you Loctite the bolts) 

here is the results before and after!!! remember I have a new oem supra flca.

it lines up beautiful in the front. but I knew at some point sooner than later. I had to really tackle the ****-storm known as the back suspension.

so I decided I needed bigger speakers in the rear, also I was going to do moar long distance driving. so I needed my pornos to sound like gold when I played them. STILL poor I decided on some sony speakers. 

I had to dremel the front and back housings where the speakers went to make everything fit. 

these are the fronts, and iirc I got some 6x9's for the rears.

But before that I needed to modify the rear where these speakers would go. took many hrs with some careful cutting and drilling. was able to make a solution.

later on I scooped up a good name brand 7" double din touch screen. 

now on long trips my solitude isn't so bad!

but I had a gap.....

I really REALLY missed my cubbie, so I went to best buy and had to hack up a solution to fill the hole. 

it's small but it will do. so my sound/entertainment system is complete for this car.


so in other mods I got a new chra holset hx40.

I also got some new rear struts for the trunk(no more bumped head)

also brought/installed a new carrier bearing for the driveshaft.

I also got a ebay kit and made my cluster blue

So I finally got my hands on a celica steering wheel. and it's so simple to switch it over a caveman can do it. there is a write-up on how to splice over the airbag wires and the simple grounding for the horn.

here is the celica wheel hub

and the sc wheel hub

here is what ur merge should look like

here is the final product

and ta-da no more creepy lexus wheel!

this was before my stereo upgrade!

so more suspension upgrades. the rear lower arms were shot. so I picked up these nifty megan units!

the right rear oem units were a ***** to get off. took forever! but after using a heavy as **** hammer I got it done.

and the results on the rack?

now just left is the rear uppers!

so I had an idea/seen this done before and I needed a constant 12v feed to my electronics.

had to break off the lower board.

and here is the end result

and meanwhile I had some fake leather laying around and decided to reskin my center armrest.

so rocking the cheap e-fans I brought from advance auto for 2 years. They keep the temps down. brought a temp switch relay from autozone and all was well in the kingdom. then one of the fans died. and I had to look for an alternative.

WHY NO CLUTCH FAN?-u ask. well I prefer the electric fan more with a temp switch because after the car is turned off it runs longer to cool the rad core down. this is beneficial for track days, and hot as **** days also. and the parasitic loss isn't there like on a clutch fan.

so I needed an oem quality clutch fan with kick *** cfm flow. ive heard Taurus fans are the go-to ones. but the shroud won't fit the supra rad. what's a guy to do?

The Volvo rad fan uses the Taurus motor and comes with a nifty relay system. so I sourced one and proceeded to make it work.

easy to wire/understand relay system.

now was the fan shroud. I got some cheap metal and extended it alittle to make it work.

and final installation.

to finish up this job, you will need a bmw temp sensor. preferably this one.
the pigtail harness for that sensor(get one at a junkyard off a 90's bimmer)

know how to wire things in and poof. a kick *** proven oem-like cooling system.

so I went ahead and brought a grounding kit for the car. hoping to improve on the taxing electrical system I have on the car already.

I already had existing 10mm wires and ad to use them in conjunction with this kit. it's universal so not cut exactly to the sc length. 

I myself haven't noticed any specific difference with this kit installed. after about 2k miles my alt took a crap on me and I had to have it rebuilt. so maybe down the line I can/will see a difference?

so last week(my assembly date). I realized that my turbo seals went. so I had a g-pop rebuild kit luckily avail. I would up using the rear shaft clip from one of my lesser ebay kits(those fit). so the gpop kit came with the o-ring that goes between the compressor side and the rest of the turbo. 

Being as how ive done a few turbo rebuilds but never used this gasket I thought it a good idea to put it on. silly me didn't lube it up. I just put it in there dry. maybe that is why when I get down the road and go into boost is pops off??

I stopped immediately and it slightly bent my compressor blades(I straightened them back out). But I drove the car back a qtr a mile like this. YES I put the compressor clamp back on. it wasn't as snug as it usually is without the o-ring. but lesson learned, don't run with one?

so, in anticipation of hopefully/finally getting my head decked/gasket matched this month. iam going to also change the oil pump, I have some nifty cam gears from Australia, and re-brought some 264 cams, got the valve stem seals and ready to put in these injectors. 

speaking of injectors, ive also gotten my **** wet with this aem v2. looking at the john fast king videos has helped me sync the aem and even make a drivable base tune. 

just there is 17 videos, and honestly learning how to tune the aem is pretty boring honestly. I have to get my add in order at some point. because getting ****ed for $700.00+ for one map. isn't my idea of a good time. 

so now TODAY. iam going to start on the fun task of dropping my subframe and installing these bad boys. 


so it's that time again. time to crank up the heat, and my valve started leaking. so I picked one form a local junkyard. and I had a genius idea to make the nipples stronger. some jb weld and ta-da!!

and it still leaks. it leaks at the plastic seam at the bottom, so I found this alternative. thank god for clubLexusand the internet.

so I finally got around to getting these fenders rolled. the process wasn't bad but would had been better if I had an assistant chick to hold the heat gun on the fenders as I rolled. I tried to match the front and back curves evenly as possible. 

I brought this nifty kit.

it's an eastwood knock off, but does the same damn thing. you need to lock title the adjusting bolt, and grease the threads before use tho. 

oh, and in the process I eliminated the only spots of car-aids(rust) by cutting it out/off and spraying some black paint to cover it up in the meantime until the lazy monster goes away and I feel like welding on some new metal,here is the results of my work. 

and even the plastic strips have metal in them.


so I finally, finally got around to pulling this damn sub frame to install these suspension goodies. working solo has it's drawbacks. But the job must be done. total took me 12 hrs(2pm-2am) I didn't get to install my wheel bearings like I wanted to and my rear diff solid mounts either. and u will know why in a bit. 

so then on the journey of removing my sub frame the damn left rear abs sensor got stuck/jammed in the hole, and broke apart. so **** my life. worst of all there is still plastic pieces left in the hole. not just an issue of sensor replacement. now I might have to do the whole sensor. 

here is the comparison shots of the rear mk4 sway bar and the front sub frame bushing. 

well there was this weird nut-locker for the upper arms. never seen this one before, anywhoo getting the ball jointsoff was more of a challenge than anything. I didn't take any pics of the arms installed after because it was dark. but here are some snaps on the rack. 

and here is the current alignment specs for it after the serial 9 arms..


Well it's been a while. went to a dyno day(mustang) and had a surprisingly **** poor performance. granted i have a stock ecu and a stock injectors. but i never expected a crappy result like this??

the guy told me that i had no boost till 6k. so either i needed to raise my redline or i had a boost leak. well until now i never really did a boost leak down test, so i was kinda stumped, i made sure all my hose clamps were tight as they could go. so i figured my 50mm outdated(and later to be found rusted) external waste gate was to blame?

so i brought a more modern eBay 46mm v-band waste gate.

it is so boot-leg it has tial on it. it was a sturdy unit and the construction was good quality. came with 2 springs and no id on how many lbs they are tho..

so when i did my swap i DID NOT replace my exhaust manifold gasket. they looked okay but obviously over time they needed to be replaced. so i figured this was a cause of my boost pressure leak. 

But as a major surprise to me i found the cause of the leak. 

so fml x7 times. i wasn't expecting this . ive been rolling around on this manifold for the last 3 years. no telling when this came apart. and i was in a bind because this is my only daily driver. so i had to act fast and attempt to weld this mfer back up until i could get a new manifold.

I didn't have stainless steel wire but i just had carbon steel, i cleaned it up pretty good for a still newly novice noob. 

so i had to use the old gaskets as i plan on buying new ones when i get a new manifold. the v band is perfect i can take off/on the waste gate with ease.

i brought an oil catch can. and thanks to my welding experts austin and mike, they shortened it so i can fit it in a certain corner in my engine bay. 

i also picked up a new power steering pump because mine was going out. i would like to replace the rack to, maybe down the line...

here is the turbo manifold that i brought from cx racing.

it is way thicker and seems to be more sturdy than the cheaper thinner silver manifolds.

i also picked up a  down pipe and a mid pipe that i plan on v-banding to finally shore up a exhaust that doesn't hang and is tucked properly.

and here are the new gaskets and here is a t4/t3 adapter. i couldn't afford the borg warner turbo like i want to yet. so in the meantime i will rock the holset.

so when it came to installation time. it was a brutal but learning experience time. it was a 2 part thing i later finished my exhaust off but ill get to pics of that later. the manifold costs almost 500 bones, BUT.... the holes DID NOT LINE UP!!! so i had to take all night and make the bole holes longer, and i had to cut some of the studs to make it work.

i also had to literally shave off some material to clear the coolant pipe.

for starters i welded in the studs on my adapter so the studs wouldn't turn.

and here is the end result on my adapter.

so when i cut into the mani to weld on the v-band. it is in fact way thicker. it didnt cut as easy as the cheaper stuff did, even with my chop saw.

so here is where the effed-ness happens. i needed to again make the holes slightly larger so the mani could sit properly on the stock studs. and i had to cut these studs for clearance.

and again i had to shave off material for the first runner to clear the coolant pipe/nipple(barely clearance).

i don't have any leaks because i didn't take off THAT, much material, still id like to move the runner one day.

here is the downpipe. i made a v-band on the end and i had to install a oem toyota o2 sensor bung. other than that here is the finished product. 

so i finally installed my oil catch can. first had to get my holes patched with alum welding and i been had some steel braided hoses for this occasion.

now i have a oil odor in the cabin of the car. not sure if i need to "t" the hoses to an intake vacuam sorce yet. can and prob will later???


so, it's been a while and i got a bunch or stuff done. here are some updates.

i got a wally 450lph fuel pump, and i stalled that mfer.

i then met a cool guy who makes custom decals.

so then after a long delay, i finally completed acquiring all the parts i need for my head upgrade/modification.

and a new/great addition to the family. a bw s366

so then it was the fun of pulling my head and getting my cams installed, my shims, valve stem seals and an 3 angle valve job. i also got some adjustable cam gears for bling factor.

and in the process i'm going to replace my oil pump, so the head and the sub frame/oil pan is going to come off. the good thing about this is i can clean up that dried up winter salt from that blizzard of 15.

so saying goodbye to the old setup.

slowly but surely getting stuff off.

so the intake had some really bad carbonated grime. so i wanted to clean up my act. 

and as stated earlier i had to pull the sub frame to change the oil pump. 

here is the old vs new. 

oil pump off

and where the old one belongs. it has done me well thus far. 

gasketed this mfer now. 

back on, ready for that pan action. 

while reinstalling the oil pan i noticed my oil leveler was chipped. i need to replace that at some point one day.

so before i pulled off the head, i test fitted the aftermarket intake. and i must say, it won't fit and it still needs work to make it fit. 

After getting the cams out of the way, I got the bolts out and pulled this head. I didn't secure the shim buckets and they all came out(keep them in order) so I had to pay extra at the shop.

so, before I sent my head out to get done. a good friend of mine Austin gasket/matched my intake/exhaust runners.

Next up is the cleaning of the cylinder head. I used some scraping, but I carefully used a wire-brush on the blocks and pistons. 

here's what it looks like cleaned up..

and I picked up a lightweight pulley kit also.

so after cleaning up the sub frame, I went to finally finish up the suspension and get the wheels back on. 

I USED to have a garage, but iam not cool as some of you guys, so my working conditions are all about dedication. 

so here was the total machine shop bill, again I wish I didn't separate the shim buckets, but my head is finally done. 

and here is the finished product. 

so finally it was time to mount this mfer. so it's time for "stud" love. 

thanks that I didn't have the radiator in I was able to climb in the engine bay and slide the head on myself. 

next up was the borg warner mock up. The turbo is huge, and they sent me the wrong one. I originally wanted the one with the 90deg bend. but I figured I would make this one work.

I had to cut off the end and source a 2 and half inch bend to merge to the hotside. so needed Austin(the great) welding skills once more. I also attached a reserve to the compressor.

well it was then time to install the borg warner turbo. this thing is huge. I originally wanted the one with the 90 deg bend. but I was sent this one, I decided to make it work. 

so I needed to fab up a new intake pipe that is 2 and half in diameter. once again I had so summon the god-like welding powers of Austin at (Austin-tech) of Nebraska.

also installed the reserve for the compressor side.

getting there,.

and here is the finished product pe


next up, installing the injectors!!


so here are some pics I lost/found are of some of the other stuff I did. I didn't have the proper tools to properly strip these valve covers. so I used a grinder brush. and I had some paint that matched my color code to spray on the valve covers. 

here is a new damper I got offline for less than $100.00 dollars. 

and here is what perfect tdc looks like. and here is installation of my pulley kit. 


thanks to fsm tq specs to save the day..

then I had this mystery oil leak, emanating from only the intake runners. YES, I didn't super tighten them in the right sequence and use all the right bolts the first time. so it leaked from only one spot.

then you ask(is it coming from the turbo/throttle body)? and the answer is NO

So I cleaned it up when I installed the 800cc injectors.

so here's what it looked like when I pulled the intake manifold.

so iam thinking this is caused because I plugged the pcv hole and on my catch can there is no vacuum. and I also had to run the line behind the abs sensor. iam looking for a new catch can that is smaller and has different dimensions for the an lines to go to.

so I was going to extend the engine harness, I wanted to run it BEHIND/UNDER the intake not through it like stock is. so in doing this I also picked up some injector pigtails for this. luckily the 90's corolla injector plugs work. and I went to the junkyard and got some good condition ones for almost nothing. 

here is the injectors getting installed with this nifty purple fuel rail. I originally got a rail with the aftermarket intake, but it was the wrong rail so I had to purchase the right one. 

here is the injector latency, I can't understand this ****. 

and sadly(just my luck) there is no 800cc bosch injector option on the v2. 

and so onto the wire extension. I hate soldering by the way, but when it needs to be done, it needs to be done.

here is the old wiring looms/covering I pulled off the harness, yes lots of this old cruddy stuff.

so a problem aroused. the ecu fuse in my fuse box became loose, and I needed to replace the whole fuse box, luckily the local junkyard had a 95 sc400 so I went there and scooped up another less abused fuse box.

the HARD PART, was removing this *****, seeing as I have a 5 speed and it is so effing close to the box.

pulling the new one was a breeze, why? no 3rd pedal.

and here is the new one installed, notice the terminal iam using, this is the RIGHT way to tap into a acc powersource, not the ford spade terminals iam used to using. lesson learned.

here is the process of harness extension. actually one of the harness plug wires frayed and the car would not start unless I jumped the m-rel relay.

I found an early Toyota Avalon in the junkyard, and the ecu plugs are the exact same as the 1jz ones. so I got better condition pigtails for the ecu.

my 3rd arm from harbor freight is a effing life saver!!

once again I hate wiring, just pick a spot, and extend all the wires with the proper gauge.

so I was tired of that bland plastic overflow bottle. I seen another sc owner(suplex) and he inspired me to get a nifty wrx overflow alum bottle and put the location in a more IDEAL place.

originally can was too tall

so time to fix it.

it's ready

and done.

and here is a look at my poverty-spec full 3" exhaust. I welded it together myself. uses only 2 v-band connectors for a quick disengage.


so my water neck was leaking. I went to the weld-master Austin to fix it. now I need a higher pressure rad cap for the dyno pulls.


Hmm where was i? oh yes...

so last time i updated this i was driving around, using this as my daily driving. i made a tune that i could get around with/daily drive with. thank goodness i have experience on nistune and for the fast king videos. so my work took me down to Texas for a few weeks. Dallas through San Antonio.

it was while i was down here i got the bug to finally get a tune. so i called up a few shops, they all wanted too much. anywhere from 750+

i feel that a good tune for just 1 map should cost no more than $600.00-max

so i for some reason called sound performance and they were in that range, so after a few weeks i made my way to Chicago to finally meet the rollers(properly).

when i got to sp it was hard to find at first, it's hidden behind some warehouses, so i had to do a lap to find the cars. 

just a few of the cars i seen when i got there. a real professional import shop, the last of a dying breed indeed.

so after a bit got strapped down and got to business. 

So thankfully the dyno guy allowed me to personally make some tweaks/checks/adjustments while trying to tune this mfer. i finally tapped my wide band into the aem unit. brought a filter for my iaac unit. did my best to adjust the idle screw on the throttle plate. 

things were going well then hit a skid mark when the dwell started acting up.

So we checked the spark and adjusted the timing.

Still no dice, then he fixed the dwell got it rev then disaster struck.

my rings went kaput. did a compression test and only 1 cylinder was healthy, one was 30psi and one was 60.

so that was my tune for the day, i finished out at 263whp on 9 psi. (i need a ebc controller for the aem).

so i got a few qts of oil from the guys and made my trek back to Missouri, defeated but not done, i vowed to come back.

im thinking the rings went because of poor crank case ventilation, i plugged the pcv valves and ran 10an lines to an oil catch can with no vacuam.

i was also told the filter on top of the can was way too small.

Now(currently) it huffs white smoke and some oil out that same filter. 

so now it was time to go 1.5jz. i got home and that next week sourced a older gs from a local junkyard.

so here we are again, faced with a 2jzge, and once again not 1 but 2 of the bolts don't want to cooperate.

so i had to get smarter than the bolts and mutilate them from within the block. luckily they were right next to each other.

then finally finally, the block was freed!!

so now time to purchase some goodies and send this block away so i can get it back together in a timely manner?

never disassembled an engine before. so this is new territory for me. but looks like the bearings were not shot to ****.

im just looking to do a stock rebuild with stock size rings and some better x-bearings.

This thrust washer bearing thing is the most biggest problem i forsee for me.

and that is all i have so far, waiting on the machine shop to get back to me. he is charging me $250.00

-hot tank
-clean pistons
-polish crank
-hone cylinders
-install piston rings


my GUESS is that I blocked off the pcv valve and that might had something to do with it? or the rings were going out in the first place. it's weird because right after I got my head done I had a suspicious oil leak only in the intake manifold?

there was no oil in the pistons or on the spark plugs? ?

The head guy told me it was normal for if your rings to go if they are weak AFTER a head job.


so with the help of gerb I was able to get my hands on the pistons I needed. 

.20 over cp's.

I also opted to get some eagle rods, after buying/flirting with the idea of using rods from cx racing(took them back because the rod bolt was way smaller.

so it's been a while between last year and now when the motor blew up, and I acquired another s13 which has since ben totaled by some dumb ***** and I reinstalled my rb25 which has also blown up due to a rod knock.

now I had time, so within 3 weeks I took my soarer out of service, swapped head and all the parts on the 2j block, swapped to the r-154 tranny I've had sitting for years and violia!!!

so first order of business was stripping the 1jz, all the stuff came off and I have it for sale for $200.00

then I snagged me a nifty cart to haul off the stuff that needed to be power washed!

so finally got the block and stuff back from the shop, oh it was a happy day, everything was so fresh and clean.







not what I wanted to spend.

also picked up some break in oil

Next up was assembly time. Yes I was nervous as this will be my frist assembly of a bottom end and I can't **** up on this one. so after some youtube videos and some verbal advice from some people I took a crack at it. thankfully some warmer weather came by to help. 

so aside from following the fsm, apparently the "big" thing is crank thrust, so I carefully did that and tried to make sure it was within spec

then it was on to the pis-on-ton loading

went in without a problem, no piston rings were injured!

next up was head gasket and oil pan/pump install, I have done this before on the thread so I skipped this illustration this time.

YES, the lower 1jz cam cover is too small, and I'm actually selling the set (top and bottom)

ran into an issue with the water neck.

so I made a FAILED attempt at being a machinist to fix it, I just sourced a n/a one at the junkyard and got that one.

so 20 bucks later it was welded and the crisis was averted.

now the motor was getting ready to "go in"

up next was the r-154 prepping. I opted for this clutch kit, why? because it's cheap and I'm poor.

and I also modded my w58 vss to work.

spent a few nights with no sleep.

I MUST SAY, the hardest thing about this whole tranny thing, was getting this damn bearing together, that snap ring is a mother!

luckily I had a pair of ring(not leg) spreaders and some clamps to make it work.

also had to cut some bolts because the pp ones for the w58 are too short.

now it's time to mate the 2 and form voltron!!! it was a foggy morning that day.

so finally got around to draining the fluid in the trans to replace it with some synchromesh. But I seen some small metal sheen particles in it.

at this point all I could do was grab my butt cheeks and hope for the best, it was too late now.

I installed the motor and tranny, and surprisingly the trans mount came up to the exact same spot as the w58 did GO ME. used the same shifter I had before the the shifter location hasn't changed.

only thing is I had to make the tranny mount holes bigger.

and yes the ds is a few inches short, still works/fits but u should get it extended.

and now it's done and done.


Here is my write-up on cluster swapping..

so during this time, I ordered a throttle cable from phr. the cable I had was from a camry and it was longer than I needed and it contributed to the throttle hanging when the plate closed.

so instead of getting a stocker I opted for a shiny ss cable.

sam in customer service was kick *** helpful and I got it quickly. well during my initial installation the cable came loose from the pedal stop. apparently they leave it "not tight" so you can install the oem rubber stop. anywhoo I could not get the cable back through the very small hole.

so I cut up the oem cable to length and drilled out/made bigger the hole like so.

locktite red before i double stopped it.

finished product

and done, added with the cx racing bracket, and later on i brought a brand new oem gte tps, my throttle is spot on.

and here is my heater core cluster eff.



so, I got a brand new starter and a a/c compressor, why because it's hot as fu#k. the starter installation was easy as nutz. the compressor took patience and an air ratchet. 

here is a comparo between the old one, I brought a mk4 supra model, good to know denso is still in the game.

so, I'm poor. I've been using the same hks ssqv knock-off bov for over 12 years. no leaks to my knowledge and it was the earlier adjustable pressure ones. well I figured it's time I replace it, with another knock off, this time it's a type 3(crowd goes woo).

the funny thing is I payed $50.00 bucks for this and it LOOKS like it's a legit item, but come on...


this has cost me over $100.00 in fittings I did not need or I am not going to use. I brought this double hangar thinking it was way smaller than it really is, I figured it could mod it to fit the double wally 450lph's that I planned to use. had no clue the bosch 044 fuel pumps were this massive??

oh, what is my plan???

-twin wally 450lph fuel pumps

-modified stock hangar

-dual -6an to single -8an (in tank before the bulkhead

-single -an8 feed to the fuel rail

going to leave it at stock return size(5/16) for now I've had some guys tell me it's too small. but larry from sound performance said it would work, so were going to give it a shot.

working on the bulkhead now pics will be here in the next day or 2, looking for a sealant to keep the fuel from leaking out...


well moving along on this fuel line upgrade, I finally got the bulkhead together, used some jb to hopefully keep the fuel inside, now I'm not going to use all this wiring length, I'm going to use mostly the fuel pump plugs and some heat shrink on the fuel side.

I also came up with a solution to the heater control valve, curse that expensive pigmy flange, so for less than $20.00(minus the 60.00 wrench-I returned). I made a manual solution that works.

and here it is mounted and painted black(for stealth)

next up is tach installation, finishing up this fuel line/pump setup and installing my 2.5 ic pipe to the intake.