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1977 Towncar Resto mod!
Compliments of sauceman @ thelincolnforum.net
Let the games begin!
My plans for the near future is to completely gut the interior and start on the suicide rear door hinges
Once the hinges are complete I will separate the body from the frame and totally restore all the metal. Lucky for me the car is pretty sound with minimal rust considering it's an Ontario car.
Interesting find under the rear seat floor sound deadening.
By the looks of it and seeing it was glued to the sound deadening it has been there since the assembly line. Any ideas?
Some assembly line code;
Very sad roof vinyl;
more pics can be found here;
http://s140.photobucket.com/user/Saucem ... ion?page=1
Needs complete paint, some minor rust issues.
Install suicide rear door hinges.
Freshen up and de-smog the motor. (aluminium heads, Performer intake, new carb, cam, and ignition) maybe headers.
Complete front end.
Repair tranny leak.
Rebuild rear end (shudders under decal, probably excessive backlash)
Replace the Cordovan interior with this one;
Yes you should!
Here is the worst of the body work, a prior repair to the left rear quarter.
Started pulling off the vinyl roof today and yes I was very nervous of what I would find.
So far it's actually not too bad for rust in the rear window channel or the opera window hole.
There are three hidden speed nuts for each piece holding the trim at the bottom of the vinyl around the rear window.
There was also a strip of black tape around the rear window trim, half on the paint and half on the trim. And also notice that the corner piece is not shiny metal but plastic.
Overall I'm happy with the state of rust around the rear window
Yes that butyl can be messy LOL, but it cleans up nicely with lacquer thinner.
So anybody have any idea were this goes?
Well here is the only rust issue around the back window, big relief!
Looks like there is two different pads under the vinyl, the center section is denser with the C pillars having a lighter "fluffier" material.
Removing the rear window.
Had a little two hour setback today when the 1/4' socket I was using to remove the trim nuts above the wheel well decided to fall down between the outer fender and inner wheel tub. Had to remove the antennae and the fuel filler pipe, which led to dropping the tank. Then I had to shove a wooden wedge to have enough room to stick a magnet and remove said socket.
Also came across this sight after removing the trunk carpet;
Anybody repair this area before? And if so what was the method?
Total mouse body's so far 3
Ya ice storms suck! And I think I'm a founding member LOL, should write a book.
Today consisted of repairing the rear window defrost connections, since it was working this strip most likely came apart during the removal process;
Also removed the front seats and vacuumed the carpet, pretty good shape!
The worst part of the front seats, seam coming apart on drivers seat.
More pics here;
http://s140.photobucket.com/user/Saucem ... t=3&page=1
For you my U.N. friend I make good deal
I'll try that when I get home as the photos are not on my work comp.
Finally finished building an extra 10 x 14 shed to hold all the parts for the 77, 75 and a bunch of extras I had that came with the 75.
She's listing to port!
I think the old girl exceeded the load rating of my cheap wheel dollies!
I tend to get pretty anal and take things too far. So I expect to lift the body from the frame and totally go thru it.
Just finished pulling out the carpet, quite pleased with the condition of the floor.
Passenger side, minty fresh!
Driver side, some minor surface rust.
Todays update, got the vinyl roof removed
This is the row of nuts securing the front trim piece on the Landau roofs.
Kitty being ever so helpful.
Had a little mouse issue at one time.
Vinyl gone, now to remove the padding
Can someone buy a 45 gallon drum of "Goo-B-Gone"?
Gratuitous engine pic.
I'm trying to lower the window with no battery in the car. If I hook ground up to the door and touch Pos (+) to one of these wires feeding the window motor you would think it would operate, but it doesn't :(
Thanks for the info, I'll try that tomorrow.
OK, another question. I searched thru the repair manual and didn't find the answer. After removing the bottom row of screws, are there any other hidden ones or does this red gauge surround just pop off?
And another dilemma. It's still the original windshield in good shape (no cracks). I would like to remove it for paint but fear it getting cracked. What are some opinions on here about this?
Well It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be, once I found all the securing hardware
There are two 11/32 nuts on the right side.
Four screws securing the bottom edge.
And one little bastard 1/4" that holds the right side vent outlet to the main HVAC tube.
The top is only secured with three metal friction clips.
Just finished removing the main body harness and the trunk harness and now starting to remove all the seam sealer
Small update today, got the rear bumper removed. Now I know where the missing insulation from the headliner went LOL.
Good thing I have a good replacement from the parts car.
Replacing this metal above the tail lights could be a PITA.
Left side not any better.
Has anyone had any luck successfully removing the chrome trim from the tail light? The pins holding them together are heated and smushed together. I was thinking grinding them flat and drilling and tapping for some screws.
Man I hate piss poor bodywork. There is actually original paint still on the metal under the bondo!
And the moron bodyman punched through the inner panel to unsuccessfully push out the dent and just left it like that :(
Hopefully the parts car's rear quarter is in better shape under the paint.
Yes Mike that's what I figured although I'm not even close to getting the chrome re-done yet LOL.
Well I have surgically removed the right taillight "bulkhead". Going to bring it to a metal fabricator to see if they can replace the rusty parts.
There were a few spot welds!
Thanks previous body man, you suck!
Now I can get to the backside of the dents.
It only took me about 1 1/2 hours to remove the panel.
Starting to flatten out already!
Got a little done to the old girl recently. Have removed all of the bondo from the shoddy repair on the right rear quarter. I don't know what type of paint he used but the 80 grit disc on the grinder was melting the paint instead of grinding it LOL. I just sprayed some etching primer on until the actual body work gets started.
Got an idea for a little cubby hole in the trunk. Since I'm going with a dual exhaust with small diameter resonators I'm thinking of sealing off the hump for the factory resonator and cutting in a hatch like a glove box.
Got tired of sniffing fumes in the trunk from removing the seam sealer (using the old gas from the tank )
Getting closer to lifting the body off the frame.
The spare shed is getting full LOL!
Hopefully get the motor pulled this weekend and all the suspension removed from the frame. There is a fella in Belleville that will come to the house and soda blast whatever I need for $125.00 and hour. He quoted me 3 hours to blast the frame and I will get him to spot blast the rust issues on the body at the same time.
Sounds good, we'll play it by ear.
Got some more de-construction done to the dash.
Got my step-sons hands dirty removing the blower motor. How on earth would you service this part with the fender still on LOL!
Found this piece sitting near the left front body mount. I think it may have been used for alignment when dropping the body on the frame?
I would really like to paint this dash frame, but it's a major source of grounds for the main harness.
Well I'm slowly getting near the finish in regards to having a totally stripped body
Yes, when I replaced the heater core on my old P71 Interceptor it was simpler with the dash removed!
It can be unnerving, but at least I have an "as per sample" parts car to help with the re-construction
Got the original windshield removed without cracking it!
No hidden surprises.
I suggest that if you haven't done so recently and your car sits more than it's driven, you might want to make sure that the AC water drain is clear with no obstructions. I think this is the original evaporator that was in the car with about 1/3 of the core obstructed with debris/mouse nests ect. This led to the rotting of the fire wall behind the heater box. It shouldn't be too bad of a fix, but a fix none the less.
The strip-down continues
Well at least the firewall isn't affected, I wonder if anyone stocks this heater box panel LOL.
Getting more bare, slowly.
Went from this...
To this :)
Yes I'm going to take it to a metal shop to see if they make me a new one, which will be powder coated.
Started to pull the pack today!
Right side engine mount and both tranny mounts toast!
Also got the main dash harness removed.
A whole bunch of the catalyst came pouring out of the convertors, don't think they were very effective LOL!
Just enough clearance with the door open :)
Got the power pack out and split. This tranny works well just has a bad leak behind the torque convertor, either the pump gasket or shaft seal.
Even managed to remove the tranny cooler lines without any damage :)
A little bit of grime to clean but not too bad.
What's left of the left tranny mount.
Right side completely fell apart after all the weight was lifted off.
These two following pics are of the inboard body mounts at the firewall. Looks like the heat from the catalytic convertors actually melted the rubbers!
You can really make out where the convertors are with the paint has been cooked off.
Well today I experimented with door removal. Not too bad with the cherry picker. The plan is to remove all doors, then clean, paint and seam seal the inside floors/trunk and coat it with alligator skin. After that lift the body and sort out the floor/trunk from the underside with the same techniques. When I'm done it will be a total colour change to black, right down to the firewall under the dash . With the body off the frame the frame will be painted along with all the suspension and the body re-installed. Then clean and paint the inside of the doors and re-install, then the drive train, front clip then paint, new roof and install the interior, should be done in a couple of weeks...not!
Got the windshield butyl removed.
The only bad part of the windshield frame, easy fix.
Finished off the brake pedal assembly.
Got the rust cut out of the rear floor and made a patch. I had to be careful not to cut into the seat belt anchor that is spot welded under the floor.
I have got almost all the metal work done, just the rear window to fix up, and then I will lift the body off the frame to remove all the surface rust from the underside and frame.
Today was a good day! Got to meet Mike (navguy12) and his brother as they stopped in to check out the Town car. Was really good to put a face to a name and meet in person which does seem rare on forums such as this LOL.
So todays update;
As many of you know it can't all be about Lincoln, unfortunately. Had to redo my trailer as it was getting pretty long in the teeth as they say. Before.
Getting new braces as I switched from plywood to slats.
Ok back to the Lincoln!
Rear passenger floor repaired.
One problem is the lack of proper drainage, this is at the bottom of the driver side A pillar. You can see the rust where water would pool up.
Now this is the pass side. I filled in the step with fibreglass bondo (long strand) it just needs the final sanding. This will let the water run off the cowl down to the ground like it should.
Got about half of the firewall cleaned up!
And I started fixing the right side rocker. It was crushed in pretty good, had to cut it open and bend it down, then use the hammer and dolly to straighten it. After that it will folded back up and welded shut :).
Until next time!
Like I said, you guys are welcome over anytime. If the garage doors are open come on in!
This weekends installment;
I repaired the rocker in two separate patches. You can see the forward one welded up and the rear one folded down.
After all the hammer and dolly work was done I coated the entire inside of the rocker with Krown.
All welded up waiting for the skim coat of filler.
Sanded the roof down to bare metal and is now coated with an etch primer.
And most of the firewall is also coated with etch primer.
After the rocker gets finished the next job will be the suicide door hinges!
Small installment for today, just have to finish sanding the right side rocker.
I have just one more body mount to remove and the body gets lifted from the frame, might happen tomorrow
Well it did happen today, got the body lifted from the frame
My plan is to support the body using 4x4's in the shape of a sawhorse, unless somebody comes up with a better plan.
The last body mount was the most stubborn, the one on the left should look like the other one LOL!
Until next time
Thanks for hanging around!
Had to lift it up in stages, a little in the front, a little in the back, until we could squeeze the table underneath.
As I couldn't get the table back as far as I would like, I strapped the trunk latch to the roof trusses LOL.
Now to strip the frame and pull it out from under. Then the underside of the body will get painted.
When all is done I'm gonna have the sturdiest work bench ever!
Just a quick update for everyone.
This is the fuel tank vent line to the charcoal canister. The rusty hole is on the top of the line, could not see it from underneath. Sure explains the fuel smell inside the car.
Easy fix on the floor boards :)
Old track link bushing. Going to try to fit one from the front strut bars like Dan suggested.
Had to cut the front coils as without the engine for weight or a proper compressor this was the easy way. For re-assembly a spring compressor will be used.
Hopefully have most of the front suspension in to the powder coaters within the next two weeks.
Notice the yellow paint on the upper spindle for the ball joint torque check.
Well I scored well today. Got a new air compressor for the garage. This bad boy should have no problems keeping up with any of my bodywork tools
The ride home.
Working alone one has to be able to improvise.
Temporarily set in the garage, waiting for a warm day to secure and wire it up.
Happy Easter one and all!
Finally got back into the garage this weekend for the first time this season.
Got started cleaning the frame, lots of work involved, might look into getting it sandblasted.
Dropped the diff out.
Starting to pull the frame out from under the body.
Now I can better work under the floors!
Pulled the engine out from the parts shed.
A little eviction is in order!
Bad mount :(
Got the rest of the frame stripped today
Started striping down the engine, just over 55k miles on it.
Only broke 4 water pump bolts :(
The distributor put up a fight!
Still have a cross hatch in the cylinder walls!
So all in all a good day. The sandblaster dude should be here on Thursday for the frame. Looks like I'll be able to order standard size flat top pistons, I'll just do a quick de-glazing of the cylinder walls. Hopefully the crank will be just as clean!
Well got the other head off along with the oil pan and timing cover. No surprises here, the timing chain is original and stretched. Broke one engine mount bolt that will have to be tapped out. Now to order a rebuild kit and some flat top pistons .
I will let the machine shop install the pistons on the rods and check the crank out but I have a feeling it's going to be in good shape.
I'll let the pics do the rest of the talking.
Guess who showed up today, woowhoo!
Received some pics from my powdercoater, one more control arm to finish!
Picking up my epoxy primer for the frame tomorrow and should have that painted on the weekend. Ordered my new body mounts today and should be in next week. I will have the floor bottom finished as well and then the frame can go back under the car to get the drive train and suspension back in.
Today I finished the small repairs to the frame.
Filled in this dent with weld.
One of the rear shock mounts got gibbled from a loose shock.
Clamped a piece of copper behind so the weld would not stick.
All welded up!
Hopefully it will be warm enough to paint the frame tomorrow!
Well I got the frame sprayed with epoxy primer today, tomorrow I will get the black laid down.
This is what I used, it's a relatively new product. It's a catalyst primer with a separate section that you pierce on the bottom to mix the two parts together.
Good day troops,
The frame is now painted in semi-gloss black
Received my body mounts, they fit the 1 1/4 holes just fine. Some like the two on the inside under the firewall will need some massaging but overall I'm happy with them.
You get two complete mounts per box.
Like a glove!
Just put in an order from Rock Auto...
Still need to order newcoil springs
Got a lot of work done this weekend on the TC.
All of the underneath is finally complete
Sequence of events was as follows;
1- Clean metal with lacquer thinner and remove surface rust with wire wheel.
2- Spray on rust convertor, let dry as per directions.
3- Primer coat.
4- Base coat of black. Gloss black on the floor/trunk and semi-gloss on the fire wall.
5- Brush on the seam sealer.
6- Over coat with black when seam sealer dried. (overnight)
7- Spray on Bed Armour on the floor/trunk areas.
Here the firewall has just been sanded after the seam sealer has dried.
Before final coat of paint.
After final top coat.
Under the drivers side floor looking backwards.
Forward trunk bulkhead, will be installing the fuel tank this week.
Back seat area where the seat belt anchors are.
New toolbox from Home Depot, $399.00!
Also got all the rear control arm bushings removed, these will be powder coated as well.
As you can tell I also slid the frame back under the body
Next project is to rebuild the rear diff and get that mounted back up after installing the fuel tank. After that I will run the new fuel and brake lines.
Until next time!
As far as the headliner goes it's not too bad, you just have to remove a lot of ancillery parts to get to it. The vinyl roof does not affect the headliner, but the headliner affects the vinyl roof, so am I safe to assume that you actually want to replace the roof? If so then yes on the half roof the front trim is held down by studs/nuts that can only be accessed by removing the headliner.
Basically you need to remove all the trim around the perimeter of the headliner. I started at the rear by removing the back seat (upper and lower) the rear window inside trim, the C pillar, door sills, B pillar, A pillar and all the door opening trim as well as the winshield trim. Once all those pieces are removed the edges of the headliner are glued down to these "grips" that look like saw blades. Once you have pulled down the edges you need to remove the dome light and sunvisors. The bulk of the headliner is held in with rods that insert into holes along the sides of the roof. Make sure you record which hole the rods are in, as there can be two or three holes to choose from. Also the rods are colour coded front to rear, but if your just removing and re-installing the headliner you leave them threaded into the material anyway.
Maybe you can make a thread on the removal?
Well I got the rear end all stripped, going to send it to the sand blasters and paint it up. Picked up my Rockauto order from across the border today, woowhoo just like xmas!
Let gravity be your friend!
Yellow paint on the diff fill hole.
Assembly line markings.
Got some more work done on the Lincoln today!
Some of the cast iron parts got a coat of paint.
This stuff should stand up to the exhaust temps.
With all the stuff hanging in the garage my daughter said it reminded her of a Saw movie LOL.
Pressing in the rear control arm bushings.
Getting some blue on the engine parts.
Differential housing all painted up, I was not leaving it bare steel as per factory.
And the best part, the first piece installed back on the frame!
Until next time!
That's what I've been using so far for the exhaust manifolds and such, I really like the product.
The issue with trying to paint the diff bare steel is all the dimples from rust, I don't think it would look right unless I filled in all the dimples.
Differential going in.
Rock Auto sent the wrong mounts, have to send them back.
Won't even fit the frame
Yes Mike, anytime just shoot me a PM whenever you want to come down. Also if your driving by and the garage doors are open it means I'm home
Had to use a ratchet strap to squeeze the rear coils to bolt up the shocks :)
All buttoned up, will do the final torqueing after all the weight is on the ground.
Picked up my parts from the powdercoater!
The new control arm bushings did not quite fit on the crossbar, press to the rescue!
I had thrown out all the old inner bushings except one, thankfully because I used it to press on the new inner sleeves.
until next time!
Got a little bit done today.
Starting to get the front suspension back together :)
Does anybody repop these bump stops? They go above the rear axle on the frame rails. Looked through the usual suspect without any luck.
Started putting the crankshaft back into the block. One thing on these 460's is that you have to check the alignment of the bearing caps and oil feed holes. Usually the #1 (front) is misaligned with the groove in the bearing shell.
So tape off the oil drain hole and protect the rest of the engine.
Using a cordless drill and a bur I made the hole match the bearing.
Much better now!
Plastigage to measure the oil clearance on the mains.
Just under 0.002, good to go!
Blurry pic, but just under .006 crank end play, more goodness!
Also installed the lower ball joints, fun stuff!
Slowly but surely
Got my front coils springs in. Strut rods and shocks as well. Also bolted up the brake shields.
Getting there slowly :)
Torqueing the new ARP rod bolts.
All eight holes filled up. Have to go back to the machine shop to get my cylinder head dowels :(
Have to hate these first world problems, should I paint the heads or leave them bare? Decisions, decisions...
Well I decided to go with painting the heads. It looks good and will help with preventing corrosion.
I know the dipstick should be blue, but I like this better
When replacing the outer axle seals you have to remove the
collar and bearing to get to the seal.
New bearing, collar and seal.
Carefully grinding the collar. When you get just so far,
the stress of the press fit will crack the collar.
Scared the shit out of me when I did it the first time.
I'm soaking the flanges in rust remover overnight and
will re-assemble tomorrow.
These are the hinges that I will use.
Slabsides had two hinges per door. With the dogleg I only have space for one up high.
Above the crease is where the hinge will go.
Finally got my pushrods and guide plates in. Adjusted the valves and we are GTG!
65 psi oil pressure hand cranking with a speeder bar.
Now to clean and paint the trans cross member and get ready to drop the engine/trans back in to the frame
Thanks for following along!
The doors will be modified to work as they would have done from the factory. No door poppers LOL!
Ya I'm pretty good with mechanical visualization. I can sit in the garage staring at the car for hours visualizing what needs to get done. Sometimes this takes time away from actually turning wrenches LOL, but beers are usually involved so it's all good
When the time comes for the door mods there will be lots of photos for sure, hopefully to help any others that want to do it.
Getting the engine closer to finishing the engine.
Setting the backlash for the differential.
Got a good pattern.
I drilled and tapped a 3/8th pipe thread hole for the vacuum fitting as the Edelbrock intake came with it blanked off.
Going to install the centre section tomorrow and then button up the rear diff and then I can start running the brake and fuel lines.
Finished with the transmission cross member,
All cleaned up. First step was the scraper for grease/oil then wipe with solvent, wire wheel and sandpaper.
Blow off with air and then coat with rust convertor.
Thinking of using these plates.
Still a few baggies to go through â˜º
Getting ready for the engine - transmission mating ritual.
More work was done today
Installed all the steering parts.
Getting the transmission up to a good height to be able to bolt it to the engine.
Back together again!
And back in it's proper place.
Didn't even scratch the frame too badly â˜º
Next will be the fuel and brake lines and fuel tank up in the body. Then the driveshaft and exhaust.
I got the mounts from Energy Suspension.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/En ... lators.asp m
Part # 9.4102
You get two mounts per box. Some will have to be trimmed but overall they should work fine.
I'm hoping to reunite the body with the frame before the end of August.
Cleaned out the inside of the fuel tank, including this petrified fella.
Fuel tank all cleaned and painted. Just waiting for new seals.
Installed the starter and transmission cooler lines.
Started on the exhaust. This was a complete 2 1/4 inch dual
system that came in the trunk of the parts car. It will do for engine
break-in and the drive down to the muffler shop for a nicer 2 1/2 system.
Yes I'm lucky to have the space that I do, but as they say it's never enough LOL!
Got the fuel line, vent line and brake lines all installed
Also installed the transmission shifter bell crank.
Next up is the exhaust and then the drive shaft.
Sorry for the crappy pic, I'll take a better one in the light of day tomorrow.
After that is done I'll take out the laser level and get all the body mounts shimmed up and ready for the reunion!
Got started on the body mounts. The ones I purchased from Energy Suspension are good, just not direct replacements.
The one on the left is the original, the center is the replacement out of the box, and you guessed it, the right one is the modified mount. I'll have to do this to the six rearmost mounts in the trunk. The one near the back seat bottom will need to be slightly modified on the top half and the firewall inboard one (1A) will need to be tweaked on the bottom half. The rad support will be good to go.
To shrink the diameter I made a sleeve and inserted the mount directly on to my grinder, then used a coarse file to shape it as required.
The completed mount, just 11 more to go
I had the body levitating today, just as a proof of concept. I used the short chains from my engine equalizer and bolted them down to the seat belt anchors. I had to add some ballast here and there to make it hang level on the engine hoist. Used two car batteries, both rear coil springs and a 3/4inch drive socket set
So the plan is to lift it up, remove the 6x6 support framing and slowly lower it down unto the frame. Will need some extra bodies around to help stabilize but it should be uneventful.
I didn't want to remove the rear doors as they are still in perfect alignment, which I don't want to mess up until the time comes for the suicide rear hinges.
There is an even 1/2 inch gap all the way around.
Well I was just mucking around, trying this and that and before I knew it, we had assimilation
I ended up just see-sawing the body back down on to the frame.
For step three I moved the cherry picker back to the trunk latch.
Starting to look like a car again!
Boy the roof was dusty LOL. I gave 'er a good dusting and a vacuum. Now to finish off the trunk area.
Thanks for the inspiration!
New front mounts.
Now the metal work begins, first off is to fix the tail light areas.
Thanks for following along!
In anticipation of the new hinges getting delivered, I started to peel back the inner wall to get better access.
I'm gone for a week for a course so I'll be back at it next weekend.
Shouldn't be too bad LOL. Now if had already received the hinges it would be different
Spent most of the day cleaning the sheds and sorting parts. And I found my Marvin floor mats, woowhoo!
Let the games begin.
When I actually get started I will put together a separate thread on the install of the suicide hinges.
Got started on the hinges today
Had to cut a hole in the wheel tub, but all in all a good fit.
Initial cut out.
Topped out the wheel sans springs to make sure that the hinge has room and not hit the tire.
Encroachment into the wheel space.
Nice and straight.
I also set the pinion angle as I had the coils off.
And I secured the exhaust.
LOL, I actually was in the garage today installing the summer tires on the daily driver, getting the bike ready for the season, and was mucking around a little on the Lincoln. Maybe next weekend we'll get going on it. As you can see it's still buried.
And today I actually solved the mystery of this panel that was laying under the carpet;
It looks like on cars not equipped with the auto shut-off feature for the headlights it gets screwed into the hole behind the drivers side kick panel. As my 77 has this option the fellas on the line just tossed it on the floor during assembly.
The 75's non-auto shut off optioned kick panel.
Well got some quality time with the Lincoln this weekend
Getting ready to weld the door half of the hinge in place, had to install the front door to make sure everything will line up square when I unbolt the OEM rear door hinges.
Got the factory door latch removed as well as the door handle
The attachment plate doesn't go into the door as far as I would like. Going to take some serious bracing.
View from inside the passenger compartment.
The side impact beam will provide some needed bracing attachment point.
Well I had to re-locate the hinge outboard and down as it was binding at the lower part, all good now.
This is just tacked in and I have lots more bracing and the finish welding to do.
Had some more spare time in the garage (being retired is such a drag )
Repainted the power steering pump.
The finished passenger rear door hinge. I just sprayed some black tremclad for now, it will get proper paint when all the fabrication is completed.
Latch side on the door. The weather stripping will have to be reversed as well.
Modifications to the B pillar for the door striker. Had to relocate the door jamb light switch as well.
Getting near done on the driver's rear door.
Hinge plate getting installed on the driver's rear door.
Cleaning up the driver's A pillar.
Repainted the radiator support. Funny how the 75 is black, but the 77 was primer grey. This is paint, not just primer but I wanted to look as factory as possible, just with suicide doors :)
Started messing around with the body work, will get more serious with it once the fabrication is complete.
And finally got my new/used 80 gallon 7.5hp compressor wired in.
Managed to get the beast turned a little more in the garage to get me more space to work around it. Also my buddy removed his motorcycle so that really helps with the space issue.
Finished off the floors with seam sealer and painted them black.
Did a dry fit of the dash frame, it will come out to install all the wiring and HVAC etc.
Well troops, not much of an update work wise on the Lincoln, been so busy with the new business.
But I did finally get around to moving it from home to the shop
Got some more powder coating done, fan, hinge supports, vacuum canister and the air breather,
Started to clean up the interior parts from the 75.
This is the reason I haven't been getting around to the 77 Town Car,
Well here's an update!
I actually got some time in towards the Lincoln this week and started putting parts back on to it lol.
Got all the doors hung and aligned and also installed the left inner and outer fender.
Made good headway on the wiring and vacuum lines under the hood as well.
What can you say, rear opening doors are classy!
Todays instalment, got the latch tacked in on the right rear door and the B pillar cut for the striker.
I'm getting very anxious to drive this car again, but customer cars come first, so I hired a body man to work in my shop.
So we had some time to kill after priming the 64 Impala so we started on the rear 1/4s.
And I have to bring work home,...
Got some more body work done,
Driver's side doors getting blocked out.
Got the shell out of the paint booth, wet sanding and polishing will be done this weekend!
Almost ready to install the top and once that's done the headliner and the rest of the interior will go in.
I'm really hoping to drive the car this spring lol!
Working on getting the interior and dash put back together. While taking the headliner out of the 75 I found another build sheet above it lol
Well I got the rear doors all wired up with the extended harness
Also got most of the dash installed,
And the trunk coming back together,
Yep getting down to the short strokes,
Most of the interior is back in except for the seats, Still have to replace the steering wheel with the tan one,
Thanks! If you have a chance you should swing by the new shop in Napanee.
Getting more done slowly lol, finishing up the vinyl roof, got the rear windows back along with the window seals.
Well we finally got to drive the car, ok it was just a few feet to get it on the hoist but now I can post on the mileage thread lol!
Now we get to button up all the underside stuff, park brake cables, speedo cable, tighten all the loose nuts and bolts, install the trailer hitch, tailpipes and fab up the bumper mounts as I want to tuck in the bumpers and do away with the filler panels.
Now working on the bumper tuck
Well we got it out of the paint booth today, just have to install the hood and trunk.