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'79 Mark V
Compliments of Kuripiiritus @ thelincolnforum.net
I have learned many things reading this forum. So now is time to contribute something myself.
Now starts the third season (summer period) with my Linc.
The things done so far are listed on a local car page. You can find them here. if you click the " (Loe pÃƒÆ’Ã‚Â¤evikut)" on that page, it will go to the diary page. There are the notes I've made so far. If i have time later on, i'll write a short summary about the 18 entries on my car diary. I'll try to update both sites from now on.
At the moment i have similar mission like Dan had. Replace outside components. As i don't have resources yet to do the full engine job. Parts have been ordered and have already been delivered. Hopefully next weekend can start with the upgrades. Going to swap carb, intake and ignition.
Waiting to be mounted.
Here is the list of my choices:
COMP Cams Timing Chain Set
Holley Aluminum Street Avenger Carb
MSD Wire Set
MSD Ign Control 6al W/Rev Limiter
MSD Blaster 2 Coil/Msd Application
MSD Pro-Billet 351c-460 Vacumn Adv
MSD Wire Loom
Univ Ign Wiring Kit
Carb Gasket Holley 4bbl Open
Weiand Action Plus Manifold 351m/400 2v
Carter Fuel Pump.
I went with the Weiand manifold. As the Hoffenhauser is a lot more expensive. And i'm not particularly building an "Eco" driver. I would be satisfied if after the full engine upgrade the fuel usage would be the same as now, but the "Fun" would be added. It should flow better than the stock and also weigh a ton less
Now the short summary what has been happening before this moment.
In December 2006 found a nice blue diamond from eBay. Won the bidding , but the offer was under the limit and we couldn't get an agreement with the owner. So started to look from different websites. Finally found one from Ellijay Georgia and made an offer. It was accepted by the owner and so the process started. Until at 30th march 2007 it arrived here. Took it straight to DMW and it passed the inspection, so i got the car registered and they handed me the number plates.
First thing to do was ordering the shop manual. They have been a great help since
Soon i faced some light issues. The low-beams didn't want to work and the high-beams came on. As there are almost none old us cars in junkyards i had a choice to buy a new switch or refurbish the old one. I chose to open it up and rebuild it.
closed up again.
Then i took on the oil leaking from the cylinder head covers. Ordered a full casket set and replaced the head cover caskets. As the covers were of i decided to paint them aslo.
When putting stuff together found a loose vacuum hose. This was the cause why the car was hesitating some times and wanted to die when accelerating.
I found a cb radio set from eBay. and bought it.
I have already mounted the new antenna. as the cb antenna is longer had to tune the old bracket and drill some new holed for it. Fixed the old holes with fiberglass. The radio itself has not yet been mounted. as there seems to be something wrong with the cb/radio splitter. When receiving it just makes a lot of noise. But it's sending nicely. though only static. Will have it renew by an radio enthusiast.
The blinkers got annoying as they took some seconds to warm up and then started slowly flashing. As the hazard flashers were working ok, then it had to be the relay. after replacing it works like charmed.
The power doorlock was not working on passenger side. I took apart the door and seems like the door lock has died
Will have to buy a new one or fit a custom motor to it.
As the odometer was not working decided during the winter to take apart the dash and fix it.
fount the build sheet under the dash:
laminated it for the future:
As the odometer was out, i decided to paint some new numbers on it as well. Before:
Not the best, but better than before. The reason of the system not working was, that one of the metal rings holding the plastic gears in place had come loose and the plastic gears were out of their place.
Now they are counting miles again.
The headlight doors were not closing as the dash was open took out the headlight switch also. Tested it manually and it seemed to be working. Then started going further along the vacuum hoses. At one moment i had a loos hose. But i couldn't find a place to stick it. Fortunately found vacuum diagrams from here in the documentation library and the problem was solved. Then i fabricated a number plate stand from an old traffic sign (aluminum)
before: (not me in the picture)
As the light bulb sockets in the dash cluster were dead (plastic soft and crumbling) i decided to refurbish them also. Broke loose all the plastic that came and then made patched from fiberglass and made new sockets for the bulbs.
Now the stand is what i described in the first post. Waiting for mounting of the new parts
A little update. Upgrade not yet finished. Have spent the weekend from morning to night in the garage. The "dirty" part is mostly done. Taking apart the engine, cleaning and putting it together again. Still to to is the vacuum puzzle and ignition. Have removed some extra weight. Kicked off the air pump and coal canister for tank ventilation.
Getting ready for the opration:
This is how it looks before anything is done:
Letting the "coffee" out of the cooling system.
Washed the whole system later on. Such a nice crap came from the cooling system
slowly taking stuff off:
The 100 kg intake manifold is off. removed the metal gasket/pan also for cleaning purpose:
Upper part has been put together again. You could press the old timing chain inwards by fingers width from both sides :
New timing chain and fuel pump added. New chain is nice and tight no pending possible:
For reassembling the timing chain cover i had to drop the oil pan. As some bolts are not accessible by normal means i had to build a "meter" long wrench:
The current setup:
To be continued..
today managed to rebuild the vacuum system. 20 meters of hoses stayed in the box, as they are not needed anymore. hopefully i was able to plug all the vacuum holes. will see when starting up the engine. Also the ignition system was put in place. But as i had to move the starter relay (i think it's called like this) to fit the ignition box, the power cable ended up to being too short to reach the battery. But all the shops were already closed. So have to wait until tomorrow to see if i can shout "It's Alive". Left the camera to the garage today, so there might be some pictures tomorrow if take my camera back home.
For tomorrow there is one more task to connect the throttle linkage, as i can't take the connecting nob from the old carb. Will have to fabricate something.
Now a question for the audience. Does anyone know what does the ac actuator do? There is no place ion the new carb to mount it. Wondering if i can just solder the wires together or should i put a resistor instead of this plugin.
Any ideas, how important this is?
at the moment left the solenoid off. The engine seems to be working fine without it. Will see what happens in the future.
Now the car is like "day and night" compared with before. You can almost forget that it's a 2,5 ton cruiser. No hesitation at all.. and all this by tuning with only hearing. As the vacuum gauges haven't arrived yet. It might get better when it's actually tuned according some real readings. Longer story and pictures tomorrow. As I'm to tired at the moment.. 4 straight days in the garage.
At the moment i installed the timing chain with the "0" mark.. no retard or advance. I did this on the first cylinder TOD (or how the top dead position is called). And then i aligned the distributor also to the TOD position of first cylinder. Not sure if i got loose of the factory retard or not. The improvement is significant anyway. Also i can adjust the timing with the distributor if needed. I guess it will do until i take the whole engine apart and give it a good redo in the inside also.
Now to the summary with some pictures.
The starter relay i was talking about, which needed to be relocated in order to fit the ignition box:
After that i had to replace the positive battery cable, as it was to short. I replaced the negative also. As the battery connectors where really shit after 30 years. (or maybe shorter time).
This is how it looks now. The ignition box in the place of the starter relay:
Also had to heat the inner plastic fender cover with heat gun to get rid of the bump for the relay. After heating i just pressed it inside. Will see if it stays there or will pop out at some moment.
I couldn't connect the throttle linkage using the old connector as it was pressed into the linkage. So we made a new connector from a part bought from local shop. Cut it into half and soldered into the new linkage. Had to bend the linkage arm that holds the cable from the manifold , as the new position would have had a constant throttle on.
Also the spark plugs were cleaned and spaced for the MSD specifications.
Then changed all oils and filled up the cooling system and hit the road.
Drove around during the weekend . So far the fuel meter is on half tank. So no fuel consumption estimates yet. will drive again in the weekend after this one. Hopefully can get the tank empty. as i want to use up all the old fuel from last year before filling it up with the good and fresh stuff. After that can get some estimated numbers. as had some on driving with the old combo and on the spot warming up and other stuff also with this one. The more accurate numbers will come with the next tank.
I also had a little washing up and waxing after the upgrade..
last weekend passed the yearly inspection and officially road legal again.
Discovered that fuel is leaking rather enthusiastically. Some weekend when I'm back at my parents house (where i keep my linc this year - cost obsession and everything ) will take it to friends garage and lift it up to see where the fuel is exactly coming. My guess is that the old fuel hoses are too messed up and leak at connections, will have to replace them. Also taught of adding a fuel filter also after fuel pump. As there is none after the pump. Maybe there is something before.. Don't think the holly likes eating rust and crumblings.
One day i had a idea. Will see when i have time to make it happen. I'm planning to take out the pesky cables controlling the mirrors now and mount electrically controlled mirrors instead. Just have to find some car that has approximately same sized electric mirrors. Hopefully I'm able to transfer the original mirror classes to the new mechanisms. I'm positively sure that fitting the mirror control nob to the new control ain't that hard just a little fabricating. At the moment i can somehow control the driver side mirror, but the passenger side is manually controlled from the mirror itself, as the cable system is totally bollox (not user friendly at all). Will see what i can find. Maybe you guys have ideas what car has mirrors that can be used.
Haven't had time yet to take a longer ride . This year driving only on some weekends and when my vacation time finally comes.
When regulating the carb with present of a vacuum gauge another question popped into my mind. What is the correct procedure. Manual says turn mixture screws 1,5 turns open and then start regulating towards strongest vacuum, both screws same amount. When finished adjust the idle rpm to normal again.
Now comes the interesting part. When i have the max vacuum my revs are higher then needed, so i lower them. And thus lovers the vacuum reading. Now if i turn the screws to make the mixture richer it gets stronger again and the rpm raise once again. And i can repeat this many times, it's like a dead circle. I'm thinking that probably i should not continue like this but adjust it to some moment and then adjust the rpm's and leave it like this. Not go into another round.. any ideas or pointers?
Unfortunately not yet. Haven't been driving the car that much. Drove last weekend for couple of hours. Still half tank to go. Also the fuel is still leaking, as i haven't had time to go to a garage with a lift, to check it out. Seems that it might need some more carburetor adjusting. Had a little hesitation.. but only once.. have to analyze what should i think of this. And the mileage won't be probably that good, as it's fun to drive the car now
There should be a longer trip coming on mid July, around couple of hundred miles, this should show the mileage. But until that not sure how often i have the opportunity to wake the beast
In the weekend had a possibility to drive a little. Fixed the fuel leak , i was able to tighten the fuel hose connection out of the fuel pump by a notch and that did the trick. Also tightened the intake manifold a little, was not able to tighten it according to specs as i don't have the proper tools for this. The metric system ones turn over at some point. Didn't want to damage them more. Will tighten the final notch when i manage to get some right tools.
After all this filled up the tank.. got an impressive 7.8 mpg But seems that the main culprit was the leak, as i cruised around the whole weekend in the city .. around 80 miles and the fuel meter is still above full Will see when i get more do drive, but looking good so far.
Had a longer drive now. 50/50 highway/city . The city driving was not always peaceful and highway was up to 70mph. The average after filling up again was 11.2 mpg A little improvement but not yet wanted outcome. will see what can be done.
Also seems like the AC had left the "cold" outside. Will have to see if it can be fixed by refilling the system or is there a bigger issue.
Had a closer look at the AC. seems like the system is ok. all the hoses are freezing under the hood. Only place where it's not freezing is where the cold should enter the car. So at the moment my guess is that the thermostat that is checking the temp inside the car or the temperature selector is not working. One of them is saying the car is cold enough no need for additional cooling.
Also fabricated the kickdown link for the carb. The one which was included with the carb, did not catch the throttle leaver and did not kick. Bought a large washer and welded it on top of the screw intended for catching the lever. No it kicks. Additional of making a lot of noise when flooring the accelerator, it now shifts down and starts going (try to make a picture of the new fabricated part also, at some moment)
As the holidays extended the weekend to 3 days, is decided to take a trip to the garage, and tackle the window motor. Was prepared for the worst, but could get the motor out without too much effort. This time, i even didn't move the car out.
Someone had sometime ago already tried to manipulate the motor, as the door has been opened like a can:
Motor out and prepared for testing:
As it only clicked and it did not turn, decided to open it up, and see whats inside of this widget.
It was full of all sorts of dirt and crap:
The springs for the motor brushes where totally shot. Fortunately had a pen who volunteered to be the donor:
new springs in place:
The old bushings were not so rubbery anymore and also cracked:
Fabricated new ones from a hose:
End result was not bad at all :
and it's alive:
Only thing to do, was to make it go back somehow
As the window motor did not take near as much time as expected in the beginning, decided to fit a new door lock motor also. Went to a shop and bought an universal lock. Then put it inside the door to see what need to be done. It needs to be connected to the lock system and fixed in place like in the mock-up:
Once again turned to my favorite material - aluminum:
A lot of fiddling around, as I'm totally useless with my left arm. And there was only one way to do it:
And ready it was:
Now i can probably perform open hart surgery with my left arm and eyes closed
As a result all the windows work for the first time and also for the first time i can open the passengers door from the button.
Also started up the car after standing trough the winter. Just the matter of turning the key (when the fuel was pumped up).
For the next time there is oil pump change in the to-do list. Fortunately my friend is going to change it also on his ranchero, so i'll know exactly what need to be done. Do i have to take out the engine, or is it enough to just lift it a bit. Will see. Probably next time i'll visit the garage, is going to be the time to wake the beast from it's sleep and make a little ride to cough empty the pipes
A lot of time has passed, and pretty much nothing has happened, not towards the "good" direction.
Last year changed out the old oil pump. But the new one had too much power for the old gaskets, so found another weakest link.
As master studies have taken my whole time the car will probably not see daylight this year.
* fix the broken headlight switch, there ore some options, will see which one is going to be the chosen one.
- get a replacement
- get a full package with auto hi-beam switch etc
- reengineer the switch to a combo with relays. (vacuum operated by the old switch, lights operated by relays)
* fix gear selector. It just broke off. hopefully can be repaired.
* take out the engine and take it apart. depending from time and available recourses either:
- change gasket and perform maintenance jobs where needed
- rebuild and upgrade the inner engine. have different ideas what to do, have even considered making it a storker
* right window motor has dies again. hopefully the DIY motor bushings are dead and just need to make stiffer ones. Else, have to get a new motor.
* Take off the vinyl and fix the roof underneath it and put in a new one. think have to do it before the overall painting, as the whole painting will take too much money for the current budget.
there is probably some more quick fixes that need to be done, but can't remember them at this point.
And again lot of time has passed and pretty much nothing has been done. This year car stayed in the garage once again.
I have a plan that on spring I'll take of the engine out and see what's inside. After this have to do a little calculating and see, if I just swap the gaskets or have budget for some upgrades also. As i really want to take the car out next year, it has been sitting long enough.
Managed to start the work on the gear selector.
From nicely looking dash..
i was in no time back to the no dash (getting pretty good at removing it). This time i got to take it a little further.
Getting the steering column out was a real pain in the ass.
Currently at this point
Turns out the fix if even possible is not going to be that easy. Have to disassembly the whole thing, as the part to what connect the leaver is going trough almost the whole steering column. Did not had more time to fiddle with it. hopefully next time i can get it totally into molecules and test if it can be welded or something.
Finally in the end of the summer had some time to deal with the broken gear lever. It turned out, that the steering column is not meat to be disassembled. So it was decided to try to weld it as it is (could not make it worse anyways). Fortunately a friend of mine had equipment that was able to weld the piece of *** metal that the outer column is made of. It did not went perfectly, a little angle got in. So it was little off, and now the actual lever end needed fine tuning also, so it would fit once again. As Murphy's law states, that once it's get bad it keeps going - i managed to break off the tip of the lever. Had to weld this also. Once all done, had to do lots and lots of carving, to get the details to move correctly.
The end product looks like this.
This done, the assembly could begin. Made a time-laps from it:
Then for a while it became my daily-driver. The winter was coming, but i did not have a replacement car yet, so the car saw snow for the first time (while i am the owner) and unfortunately the salt/chemical mixture that is used for street cleaning also Hope that this was not enough to get the rust going as it was only couple of drives before it was garaged once again. So far there is only minimal to non-existing rust.
Getting it out from the snow:
Driving it with the snow was a real experience. As i have on the worn "all seasons" for which "slick" is better suiting. There was like 1000 hp in the wheel, when wanted to get going But it was surprisingly stable on the highway, when there were lots of other cars in the ditches, was able to maintain steady 50 mph (of course extremely careful driving but still).
Ready for hibernation:
But now i'll go abroad for couple of years, so the progress will stop once again. Hopefully when i return i get to start with the engine rebuild.
As i can't do anything else useful at the moment, i thought that i'll play around in photoshop. Just to see how the car would look in different colors. As i'm not trying to keep the car original i might change the color as well, once the work should get to the repainting phase. top left is the original color.
i myself like the green and dark red. Black would be nice as well, but i think it would need black chrome and smoked lights to make it awesome.
It's been who knows how long from the last update. I'm finally back home from my travels and some stuff has been happening. Actually i came back last summer and had the car as a daily driver again. It started up easily after couple of years standing. Only issue was the battery had died. After the usual change of fluids it was back on road.
After driving a while the old issues came back. It was leaking oil from the head gasket and onto the exhaust manifold. When driving faster the 8o km/h i was like James Bond with a smokescreen behind me. As i was unemployed at the moment thus having lots of free time and a spare set of gaskets, decided to change them.
After taking the heads off, the cylinders didn't look and feel too bad. Pretty smooth with no hard grooves or other damage. Just a bit dirty.
Taking off the exhaust manifold was a bit more trickier, as couple of bolts had already been broken half. As i'm planning to change the heads and manifolds in the (near)future i just drilled out the broken 3 bolts and re-threaded the holes. As this changed the bolt spec needed to make couple of custom bolts from some bigger bolts.
Then i clean rest of the engine as much as i could.
After that reassembled the engine again.
After this hack the engine was fine for most of the rest of the year. But finally the old issues came back as probably the heads would need evening out etc. But as i'm going to replace them, that seemed like a waste at the time. So just a quick fix.
Also after standing unused couple of years, the window washer did not squirt water anymore. Decided to investigate this as well.
It seemed that one of the terminals had broken off and was not giving a good connection. When taking it off to repair it was obvious that the motor was ceased as well. Took the pump apart and it was totally corroded inside.
As the terminal was broken i soldered the wires straight to the motor and re-sealed the pump.
No it was pumping again, but there was still no water on the windshield. Probably a clogged hose. After following the lines found another pump on the line, which had died. So the refurbished pump was trying to pump the water trough a dead pump. Seems like the original pump died and someone made a hack and inserted an aftermarket pump into the line at some point. As the original was working i removed the aftermarket item and excess hoses and wires, after which the water reached the windshield as well.
Now i have decided to stop the patching and redo the engine from ground up. So this season will probably not driving the car as i still haven't started the work, but there shall be a lot more activity and updates on this thread. The plan is to remove the engine and transmission. To rebuild the engine and freshen the gearbox. Put a LSD to the rear axle. Swap out all break discs. After what i'l probably drive it for x amount of years before there is enough resources to tackle the body.