1973 Midget build
Compliments of ianjoub @ mgexp.com
I have had a thought in my head for a while.
I want to get an Austin Healey Sprite or MG midget and stuff a hayabusa engine in it. The plan is a 25-30 psi turbo to make +/- 550 hp and a target weight of 1500 lbs.
I went to look at this beauty, the car portion of the project!
This should be the ultimate super sleeper
I will use this thread as the build thread as things progress.
Step 1: get the car.
Step 2: get it running as is, go through the chassis, update the suspension, brakes, and generally make sure it is a good platform.
Step 3: Get a hayabusa, then fit the motor into the car.
Step 4: remove the motor, build it to the obscene hp specs and reinstall.
Step 5: Upgrade the driveline if necessary
Step 6: finish the cosmetics.
Wish me luck
I hope to have $0 in my chassis after I purchase the MG, then sell the existing motor and trans..
Well, here it is!
$800 and it started and drove onto the car dolly under its own power.
Needs a new rag top
It has some cancer on the hood and trunk lid, but you can buy new ones. The frame and rear section of the car are solid as is the floor.
Amazing how samll it is
Overall the interior is in great shape, for 38 years old.... Carpet is good, door panels are good, seats have no rips/tears.
I have a completion date of Jan. 2013 in my head. 2 years seems reasonable!
So, here is the engine bay. Yes, that is 30" from side to side!
The squarish metal 'box' there under the coil and red wires is the passenger footwell, where your feet are when riding in the car. The driver side is the same. That is 15" between them at this point!
I may have to move the busa motor forward in the car from where the stock motor is and relocate the radiator, oil cooler, and intercooler.
After sitting in it, I thought I might replace the gas tank with a fuel cell in the trunk so I could move the seats back 4 or 5 inches, but the wheel wells are right there as is the clearance for the rear axle.... I guess that idea is a no go.
Ok, did a survey today:
This is the exhaust and gas tank. The tank is weeping fuel. $200 for a new one. The exhaust is rusty, but still solid. It will do for now. When the busa motor goes in, it will all go in the trash. That should save 40-60 lbs right there!
Sprayed every bolt/nut I saw with PB Blaster several times during the day. That will continue every time it is on the lift.
These cars are equipped with lever style shocks on all 4 corners. The manual I have has no disassembly instructions, so I will have to wing it changing the oil in them.
Flat bottom cars are cool! It really help the aerodynamics, makes it suck down to the road. You can see some rust on the passenger side floor. It is only surface rust, no cancer. Sandblasting and new undercoat will fix that.
Did the valve adjustment, oil, and filter change today.
Put in new plugs and did a compression test on all 4 cylinders. All 4 were within 5 psi of each other
The inner wheel wells are in good shape. Very little rust. Once again, I will sandblast and undercoat them. The front side of the exterior has a few bubbles. I will grind that off and see if it needs some metal welded in or just some bondo.
At some point I will sandblast the entire diff housing and paint or powdercoat it. Probably when I install the limited slip diff internals!
It will get new/heavier coil springs, they will lower the front 1/4" as well.
The entire front suspension will be removed. I will buy the hard neoprene bushings for the control arms, shock linkages, and kingpins to give it the sportscar quality ride. While apart, all the pieces will get sanblastd and powdercoated.
The 5/8" sway bar will be replaced with a 7/8" one with new neoprene bushings. That will help a bunch with suspension duties!
New inner and outer tie rod ends will be installed as well. While the suspension/steering stuff is off, I will sandblast and undercoat the inner wheel well and frame/sheetmetal under there
I ordered parts:
SS brake lines
Hood latch cable
Inner and outer tie rod ends and boots
I stripped all the brake lines (rubber and metal) out of the car so I can replace them.
I stripped all the fuel lines (rubber and metal) out of the car for the same reason.
The car is equipped with 13" x 5" (or are they 5.5" steel wheels and comes with a 145/70-13 tire.
I know someone who will widen the wheels for me. I will go with 8" wide rim on the rear and 6" wide on the front.
The tires I will go with are Toyo Proxes R888 in a 225/45-13 rear and a 205/60-13 front. I imagine I will have some clearance issues. I will address those (with a cutting torch, hammer, and welder) when everything is bolted up.
A hayabusa is a 1300cc Suzuki motorcycle. The 1.3 motor and 6 speed trans assembly weighs less than 200lbs. As I posted earlier, I should see 550hp when finished.
There should be very little 'cutting up'. The new motor/trans will need some motor mounts welded up underhood. I will make some rear fender flares. I will probably have to improvise on a radiator, intercooler, oil cooler mount and configuration. I plan to use the bike radiator, oil cooler, and intercooler though, not the midget radiator. The bike stuff is much more compact. I have considered the 185 front tires instead of the 205's, so I may not need to modify the front fenders....
Besides, for you purists, there will be a stock motor and trans in good order for sale soon
EBC slotted/drilled rotors and EBC pads up front, stainless braided lines replacing the 3 rubber ones on the car, and stock drums/shoes in the rear. I am unsure if I will need to upgrade the master cylinder or not. I have considered some air ducting for cooling purposes on the front.
The bike motor has a clutch and 6 speed transmission built into it. I will run a driveshaft yoke off the bike countershaft (that is where the front sprocket bolts on for motorcycle drive)).
I read that the 73 midget was 1510 lbs. I am going to remove the stock engine (iron block/head/exhaust/radiator/expansion tank/ and all accessories) when I install the bike motor.The bike transmission/motor assembly weighs about 150lbs. I should lose several hundred pounds there alone!
A 550hp turbocharged motor will make over 300 ft lbs of torque from 4k rpm up, it redlines at 11.5k
Rough (very rough) calculations of gear ratios and wheel diameters have a top speed in the neighborhood of 150 mph. With a 6 speed trans, 1st gear should be plenty low to get going easily... If not, I could always burn the heck out of the tires to get going
As a general rule, bike radiators provide about twice the necessary cooling capacity. The are lightweight aluminium units and curved to clear the front tire. Oil coolers come stock and I will use the bike one as well. I may have an intercooler custom fabbed to fit in my available space. It will be aluminium as well and likely weigh in the neighborhood of 3 lbs....
Here is a hayabusa motor, clutch, transmission setup including the generator and starter motor..... I can pick it up off the floor by hand and place it on a workbench!
Here is one in a gocart!
Well, the car went on a diet today. I pulled the front and split rear bumpers and brackets off. I decided I will do away with the rear marker lights, reverse lights, front marker lights, and may also ditch the stock front turnsignals in lieu of some teardrop shaped flushmounts.
I ordered a pressurized sandblast kettel last night. I may end up doing more restoration now than what I had planned........ The wife wants Dark British Racing Green. Changing from red will make the paint job more involved...... Also, I think a black top and carpet would look better with the green than the current tan .... damn projects, they alway grow on you as you go
I have had a hectic week at work! I haven't had a chance to do much with the project
I received some new parts, but have yet to install them. I also got a new tool
A pressurized sandblast kettel. This should make some of the restoration a lot easier!
I removed the front wheel hubs to turn the rotors.... The finished product is actually thinner than minimum spec.... I will discard them and get new before all is said and done. Before and after:
Damn, what's this mess? I disassembled and cleaned both inner and outer bearings on both sides:
New front calipers for both sides in front:
3 new stainless braided lines, on for each front caliper and one for the rear:
And plenty of sand for my new sandblaster:
I have to work at the shop again tomorrow, so not sure if I will make any progress this weekend....
Some progress today:
Uh oh, TERMITES! We need to tent it up!
Actually, this is to keep the sand from getting absolutely everywhere when I sandblast. We went from this:
Only got 1/2 the floor done...
Got both front wheel wells done though:
Ahhhh, painted up now.
Well, the power to weight ratio IS the reason to do this..... I'd love to hit the magical 2 lbs/hp mark.
1. This paint is a temporary fix. After the build is completed, the car will be stripped as far as possible, mtal replaced, dipped, and then poiwdercoated.
2. I didn't paint the control arms, springs, shocks, etc., because that will all be removed shortly for reconditioning. I will probably powdercoat it all then.
2 Thoughts today:
1. Stop taking stuff apart @!$#^^$%&#$#!!
2. I sandblasted and painted a lot of undercarriage for nothing.
Well, last night, I bought a fiberglass bugeye front clip.
So today, I removed the front fenders to do a trial fitting.
Then I removed the hood support/ air ducting metal around the core support.
I was able to lose the hood hinges as well as this front clip hinges at the front.
I had to remove more of the metal in front for proper hood clearance.... some of that nice shiny black stuff I just painted. :rolleyes: I will duct it in for airflow as needed with some plastic later.
I will remove this red metal ducting and replace it with plastic as well (unless the dude I know who lays carbon fiber will come by for a weekend )
It is almost in place. I need to trim the inner fender a bit on both sides. I will replace the metal I remove with a rubber strip to keep excessive amounts of water from going between the metal fender and the fiberglass hood.
There is supposed to be (missing) a front hinge plate setup. The hinge point is present on the hood and one uses the bumper bracket holes on the frame. I will have to fab something.... I also need to create some sort of hood pin or tiedown for the back of the hood.
Yes, but not oo bad. I paid $600 for the hood. I now have 2 good fenders to sell. I see VB gets $500 each for new ones, so I should be able to recoup a good bit of my expenditure.
Well, no pics today but:
I installed the front hubs with repacked wheel bearings.
I installed the new inner and outer tie rod ends with new rubber boots as well.
The front wheels will go back on tomorrow and I can move the car out of my way. I have paying work I need the lift for
Well, no pics again today, sorry
Today I installed the new fuel tank and sending unit. I put a filter inline before the fuel pump. I think I will add another just before the carbs, what the hell, they are cheap. I ran a new 5/16" metal fuel line from the pump in the rear to the engine bay. From there a rubber line to the carbs. I would have fired her up at this point, but broke the hard fuel line going from the float bowl to the jet on one of the carbs. I guess I should just order 2, the other one has to be just as brittle...
I also installed a new throttle cable today.
I installed a new metal brake line from the proportioning valve under the hood to the rear of the car into a new stainless braided line to the splitter, and new metal lines from the splitter to the wheel cylinders. I ran the new front to rear metal line through the transmission tunnel rather than under the car for safety reasons. I ended up cutting an access hole. I am glad I did. I took about 10#'s of $#^&@#! out of there..... acorns, dirt, pine needles, etc.
New metal front brake lines will be done tomorrow with new stainless braided lines going to the new calipers.
Boy, that doesn't sound like much work, but I was at it for a few hours!
Ok, I broke down and went back to snap some pics:
New fuel filter, steel fuel line, and stainless brake line
Brake line in the tunnel
New inner and outer tie rod ends and boots on both sides
Well, I hope VB shipped in a timely manner. I hope to have parts tomorrow (the new jet), and do some work tomorrow evening after normal shop hours.
I would like to fire it up, see if the carbs will allow it to run smoothly. One of my carb pistons does not move as freely as I would like, I may need a new one.
I also have to make 2 brake connections still: the hard lines into the proportioning valve (splitter on the right side of the engine bay). Once those are done, I can fill and bleed the brakes and see if the master cylinder and rear wheel cylinders are ok.
Also in my VB order is a 7/8" front sway bar and all the poly bushings for both the front and rear suspensions. I may have to plan more time for that install as I want to media blast all the suspension components and powdercoat or paint them. I have a powdercoat system but need to find a free oven on craigslist.
Ok, VB didn't ship in a timely manner or UPS is dropping the ball :shrug:
Here is some progress though:
New caliper and stainless line. I turned this rotor, but it is too thin. New ones will be ordered.
I left this rotor alone, no point in turning it.....
I worked on fitting the fiberglass bugeye front clip. It looks like it will be useable. The lines to the existing body will work when I make the front hinge
Looks good from the front as well
The only problem was the radiator was too tall. The top of it prevented the front of the 'hood' from going as low as it needed to. I removed it for the previous pics. It appears I will have to find a properly sized radiator and electric fan setup. The bike radiator will fit when I do the conversion. I hate to have to spend the $$$$ on one 'just for now', but I have to do what I have to do! I am fairly sure my local 800 radiator vendor will do the legwork for me when I call him with some measurements.
Well, who knows if it was VB dropping the ball or if it was delays in shipping due to inclement weather, BUT!!!!!!!!
I have all my suspension bushings, my new 7/8" sway bar, and my carb parts!
Well, the front end is back off of it. I installed the new carb parts I received in the mail and fired it up today. The motor sounded tight. I located all 4 forward gears and reverse in the parking lot, all seems well there! I still have to tune and adjust the carbs and clean or most likely replace the points and condenser, but it can be driven down the road as is.
I was able to light up the tires in reverse, left 30-50 feet of tire marks
Sorry for the sideways view
It ran better after a 'by ear' timing adjustment. All the surging went away.....
Click on the pic for video:
Well, since someone else bumped the thread:
I installed the 7/8" sway bar today and tried to bleed the brakes. One of my brake line fittings failed, threads pulled out on it! On the upside, I noticed the spurting fluid when I was pumping the pedal.... so the MC is probably good!
Well, have been really busy at work but finally had a chance to do a little to the car.
I finally got the last 2 brake line fittings! I installed them, bled the brakes, and Voila! Good pedal, brakes work well.
I drove it around the block. I'll see if I can get some vid on Monday.
Well, haven't done anything in a long while, but here is a video from today:
..... and we have a donor!
400 hp running 22 psi of boost. 1.3L, I4, lockup clutch, NOS if some extra oomph is needed...
I'll be restarting on the project soon!
Ok, motor is out of the bike and torn down for the rebuild!
Cylinder studs already installed
Adjustable cam gears
Has a lockup clutch
The not so good:
Needs a valve job
Needs a cam chain
Head isn't o-ring'd (yet)
No h-beam rods (yet)
No good pistons (yet)
Haven't looked at the tranny yet
Parts will be ordered soon
Ok, more info.
It does have some aftermarket pistons in it, not sure what brand though....
The crank is on its way to Falicon to get x-rayed.
The transmission is on its way to get inspected and whatever it needs (undercut, magna fluxed, billet shafts, etc...). Some place in Brandon or Clearwater... I forget which, but my engine builder trusts them.
The head is on its way to KWS motorsports in South Carolina for a valve job.
The cylinder and head are both studded.
I set up a dealer account with Wossner USA. Now I can order what I need (the H beam rods)at dealer cost.
I need to consider the intercooler still. I am leaning towards air/water setup. Money be damned, let's do it right!
Now to find a rear end to handle the power... don't want to add all the weight of a 9" ford....
Ok, I chose a 7.5" ford rear end out of a broncoII. I need to narrow it 9". I found limited slip internals brand new for $204. I can have the custom axles made for $360/pair. I paid $100 for the rear end with u bolts, sway bar and end links, and both shocks still attached.... Looks like a bargain so far.
The big question: Will the Ford 7.5" hold up to the power? My guess is yes, only due to the lack of traction.
I also ordered the rear wheels and tires today. 13" x 7" wide wheels. 225/45-13 Toyo Proxes888 tires for the rear, 205/60-13 tires and stock wheels for the front....
I will need to paint or powdercoat it after it is narrowed down.....
I ordered the limited slip internals today:
I also changed my front tire order from 205/60-13 to a 185/60-13. They should fit the stock front wheels better.
Ok, the tires arrived... well, 3 out of 4 anyway. 225/45-13 rear, 185/60-13 front. They are both smaller diameter than what is on there now, just a bunch wider/fatter
Good news! The 'other company' didn't start the buil on the rear wheels I ordered, so they cancelled my order upon request. I will now have a matching set of minilites. I think I will also go with the 205/60-13 fronts instead of the 185/60-13 tires I bought.... Anyone want to buy a pair of Toyo Proxes 888 in a 185/60-13? I paid $164 each for them....
The limited slip internals arrived! I am way ahead of the game on this one though. I will be waiting about a month for my wheels to arrive. When they do, I will mount the tires and then mount the wheels on the rear end. At that point, I can take a measurement for how much to narrow the rear end. Once measured, it will be shipped to Moser Engineering to be cut down and have axles made for it. When it all comes back, then I can install the limited slip internals.
Almost enought o make you cum in your drawers...
Ugh, word from the trans shop is $2,000 to make my currently perfectly functioning transmission 'bullettproof'. That, mind you, is taking the 2 shafts and gearsets to them, not assembled in the cases... :rolleyes:
I am waiting patiently for my wheels to show up. When they arrive, I can mount the tires on the wheels, wheels on the rear end, then take measurements for the rear end. I will then ship it to be narrowed down.
In the mean time, the engine build is progressing. The head should be back this month. The connecting rods are here. The crank is back from its x-ray and polish. The main and rod bearings have been mic'd.
I ordered my intercooler today. I had to take measurements quite a few times. It will be stuffed in pretty tightly in the bugeye bonnet. This intercooler is sufficient for 750 hp at 25 psi of boost, according to the designer. It will be more than sufficient
The intercooler in the diagram is it, except he had the 2" intake and 2.5" exit reversed. That was corrected and the part ordered. $900 more down the drain ... plus shipping I am sure....
Ahhhhh, more engine porn! NSFW (not safe for wife, she may not let you spend the $$$ for these things )
The intercooler, in person! With any luck, the engine will be back together and in the bike to get dyno tuned before month's end...
$2k at the transmission shop: Billet output shaft, cryogenically treat the gears, shift forks, shift drum, and undercut the dogs on both the accel and decel sides.
The engine has a lockup clutch in it. It mechanically engages at a certain rpm to alleviate the strain on the clutch packs.
The cases: Crankshaft wise, the platform is tried and true with folks producing A LOT more horsepower than I intend to... I hope to make some sort of carrier bearing for the driveshaft as close to the bike cases as I can to help with the loads.
I am shooting for 1100 lbs total weight when finished. I don't think I will have weight related strain issues.
Ugh... still waiting on wheels. Someone really dropped the ball on this one. On that note, I need to call my engine builder, he should have been done by now as well.
On to new news:
I started another thread on here about front coil spring. Apparently, no one make a lighter spring for the front. This is bad for me. I am losing about 1/3rd of the weight of a stock midget with my project, mostly in front. The stock springs just won't do! What should I do..... Ok, I came up with a solution.
I am intimately familiar with motorcycles, and their suspensions. I build several per year, revalving, respringing, and such. I decided I would go with rear shocks from a modern sportbike for the front suspension. I know I can get the correct spring rate.
I will have adjustability as well: high speed compression damping, low speed compression damping, rebound damping, spring preload, spring rate, and ride height.
Upon further investigation, I found that the lever shock on the Midget acts as the upper control arm. One more hurdle to overcome, I need to fab up a new upper control arm assembly.
I decided on Honda Element rear upper control arms. They were roughly the right size, adjustable length so I will now have an easy camber adjustment, and $45/pair brand new!
So, I ordered 2 used rear shocks from a 2001-2003 Suzuki GSXR600 motorcycle from ebay at roughly $30 each and the control arms online as well for $45. Ok, $100 in parts doesn't seem so bad... (<<<< the "..." really means something here). Now the fab starts:
Here is one of the shocks:
The upper mount: The threads are long. To adjust ride height, you loosen the top bolt and insert shims under the frame mount to raise the ride height. You can see the threaded collar to adjust the spring preload. Up on top is a 14mm nut which is the high speed compression adjustment. The flat screwdriver screw in the middle of the high speed adjuster is the low speed compression adjustment. The rebound adjuster is a flat screwdriver screw in the bottom of the shock.
Ok, so the shock assembly is about 13.5" long. The stock spring is about 10" long .... I guess this will take some cutting.
I will start by removing the stock spring and shock:
Uh oh, wounded duck:
This is the 50 year old 'technology' that I will be gladly ditching:
This spring locator is definitely in the way and needs to go:
Heck, there is lots of stuff in the way. Let's remove the steering column:
And steering rack:
So, time to make room for the coil overs. I torched a hole in the upper spring plate:
I am not 100% on the orientation yet. The adjusters need to be accesible so they may go in this way, or maybe backwards. Also, as I said, these are a little longer than the stock springs, so I will build towers and have them about this height:
Here is the control arm in roughly the correct position. I will make a bracket as the upper strut tower and to bolt the upper control arm bushing to.
Finally, I plan to attach the other end of the control arm to the stock *trunion* ... is that the correct name for this part? I have the energy bushings already. I will just need to make/find some spacers to take up the extra width:
Ok, business is slow, this is work on the MG time! Sorry, no pics this evening.
Today I took apart the rest of the front suspension pieces. The pin that is where a lower ball joint traditionally is was a bear to get out. I needed to get everything cherry hot with the torch to unscrew it. It appears to be a pressed fit in the 'kingpin' ... or whatever the Brits call it. I will order 2 new ones tonight, may as well while it is apart.
The brass (maybe?)bushings for the king pin, in the spindle are a good fit. Everything is tight clearance wise, and pivots smoothly with grease in it. I fit the energy bushngs in the lower control arm pivots. I also fit the energy bushings in the top where the lever shock bolted on, and now my upper control arm will...
I bead blasted the lower control arms. I test fittied the new coil overs. I now have a good idea of what I need to do for lower mounts. I won't know on the uppr mount until I get the lower in place and take some measurements...
All in all, I call this good progress. I wish I would quit taking S*$^ apart though....
Very nice work Hap! I wish I had thought of the heim joint to use in place of the upper trunion.
Here is what I was trying to fab up today. I am not happy with what I have so far, so it will all get torn apart and redone:
For whatever reason, I neglected to get any pics of the lower shock mount, which is what I spent the better part of the day on.
Well, my minilite wheels are a no go. Apparently, they can't drill the holes for the wheel studs in the 8" wide rear wheels. I spoke with a fellow named Paul at Braidusa. He indicated that it should be no problem and I should get them within 3 weeks of placing the order/ leaving a deposit.
Looks like I will go with these in a gloss black. One downside, the rears will be 10 spoke, the front 8 spoke. This is due to the 5 bolt/ 4 bolt lug patterns.
I did more cleanup and parts removal today as well. There isn't much left. I removed the doors. Wow, they are heavy. They must weigh 60 lbs each! I have my body man coming by tomorrow to give me an idea of what it will take to make it like new again.... Here is today's progress:
My front wheel adapters arrived today. Going from the 4 x 4" pattern to the Ford 5 x 4.5". They are 1.3" thick. I was able to compensate for that with backspacing on the custom wheels I ordered.
Ahhhh, finally had a couple of slow afternoons at work, so I made some progress. I have been fabricating the front suspension. You may remember, I decided on coil overs.
I cut and welded up some strut towers out of 1/4" plate steel:
I am using 2 rear upper control arms from a Honda Element as my upper control arms. I will 'box in' both ends of them for more strength:
You can see a square nut in this pic. That is the high speed compression damping adjustment. The brass flat screwdriver tip is the low speed compression damping adjustment. The threaded collar for the spring allows preload adjustment.
The heim joint bottom mount allows ride height adjustment. The flat screw with the H and S is the rebound damping adjuster:
I can put washers between the top mount and the steel bracket for even more ride height adjustment:
I will 'box in' this end of the control arms as well for added strength. I will cut away unnecessary metal for weight savings, and most likely make a few different holes for the upper control arm mount so I have adjustment.
Ahhhh, my wheels arrived! I mounted the tires. Here are the fronts:
And I was able to finally bolt the rears to the axle and take a measurement. I will need to have 9.5" cut out of the rear axle. For whatever reason, I didn't get a side view of the wheels. They are recessed 3" where the fronts are flush with the outside of the rim.
Ok! Suspension is mostly fabbed up. I have a few more welds to do and some collars to cut and fit. Here is how it looks though. Remember, ride height is adjustable and I will do an alignment when the car is all assembled.
Ok, more progress today. Baby steps maybe, but still moving forward.
With the front suspension done, it was time to get the wheels on. I have new EBC rotors:
I bought 7/16" wheel studs. I knocked out the 3/8" ones and redrilled the holes. The ones I got were far too long for the wheel adapters I am using, so had to be cut. I cut them off, beveled the cut, and cleaned up the threads with a die.
They needed to be this short to fit under the 2nd piece of the wheel adapter:
Now I can install the 2nd piece of the adapter. This gives me a 5 x 4.5" Ford pattern for my wheels:
All ready to install! I used blue loctite on all the bolts/nuts so far:
The 2nd piece of the wheel adapter didn't have cutouts on the bottom, so the 'wheel studs' neede to be short enough to not interfere:
Ok, installed the 1st one on the car and torqued the bearing, the EBC rotors are directional:
The thickness of the adapters was accounted for with the wheel backspacing:
I checked for clearance to the control arms from lock to lock and full extension to full compression:
The tires will be sticking out of the bodywork slightly. This will require some sort of custom 'bodywork'. I took my measurements correctly though. I have about 3/8" clearance from the tire to the frame when the steering is at full lock.
I definitely love the wheels! Braidusa.com .... 13 x 6" front, 13 x 8" rear.
Looking good! I lowered my ride height adjusters all the way. My calculations were spot on. It is too low with them all the way down, too high with it all the way up. Adjustability at its finest
You can see the strut towers I built through the empty headlight holes:
Next up is buying and installing the correct springs. With the current springs, there is negligible static sag. When the correct springs are installed and the rest of the car, weight wise is there, I will have to raise the ride height again:
I have my shortened diff housing back with the unbreakable axles. Somehow I forgot to take any pics of them. I will get some soon and post them. In the meantime, I removed the stock diff:
I will need to remove either one or 2 leaf springs for the reduced weight of the car. Any ideas, guesses, or 1st hand experience anyone???
Also, I now have a stock rear diff for sale complete with brakes and new wheel cylinders. Any offers? It ran fine with no funny noises.
Here are the axles. If heavy = strong, I am all set! They look like they will hold up for me.
I welded some plates on the shortened axle
I needed to fill a gap here, so the weld doesn't look too pretty. A little grinding and filler before paint will fix that.
Ok, pinion gear installed:
And the driveshaft coupler:
And installed the ring gear and limited slip and put it in the car:
Measure twice, cut once. I got this one right as well...
I was playing with my powdercoat system. I have no intention of keeping the u bolts and plates yellow. Everything underneath the car will be silver
Everything lined up perfectly!
I had my helper install the brake backing plates ... he got them backwards :rolleyes:
Then the axles and diff cover
On went the new wheels and tires FINALLY!
I will most likely have to remove springs and/or do some lowering blocks for the rear to get the correct ride height. I'll wait until most/all of the weight is back in the car before I do that though.
I finally got my motor back! Brake cleaner can for size reference:
The spacer I am pointing to is for the lock up clutch. It mechanically engages at a certain RPM so the frictions/disks are not overwhelmed with the horsepower.
This is the starter motor:
The countershaft sprocket will have a driveshaft yoke welded to it:
The round black thing is the clutch slave cylinder, the water pump is behind it:
All the wires are coming out of the stator assembly (generator)
That thin thing is a spacer plate for the clinder block. It lowers the compression from 12:1 down to 8.5:1 give or take. This is necessary for the obscene amount of boost I will be running:
The 4 ignition coils. Good by Sir Lucas, I'll have lights and ignition uninterrupted!
Ahhhh, and here is the money maker, Garrett turbo and Tial blow off valve (wastegate):
Actual measurements, the offset of the output shaft will create some work for em
Oh, and for the tree huggers, here is all of my emissions equipment (charcoal canister, catalytic converter, air injection pump, EGR, and PCV) wrapped up in one tidy package
So, here begins the trial fitting. The header actually went down on the bike. It will face up in the car for fitment reasons.
Plenty of room back here. That is good. The driveshaft will go through here. I will fit a starter motor for reverse here as well if I ever get that far.
I will remake the header. I'll move the turbo a couple of inches lower, a couple of inches farther back (in the car), and a couple of inches closer to the head.
There is enough room between the clutch cover and the frame rail that holds the steering rack
Plenty of room for the steering column and I'll have adequate acces to the oil filter
I think I will curl the exhaust and wastegate pipe over the back of the inner fender and exit next to the footwell in front of the A pillar. I put the pedal box back in place and will have suffiecient clearance. I will surely have to make a bit of heat shielding here and there.
I didn't put the bugeye bonnet back on, but I will most likely have to modify it a bit as well. In this pic, you can see the turbo intake facing forward.
I have considered using the blinker spots on the bonnet for LED projector headlights and using the left bugeye for the turbo intake and the right bugeye for air ducting to the passenger compartment...
Well, back to this pic. My driveline guy came out. It seems that a 2 piece driveline is in order. I was advised to mount the motor at as much of an angle as I can cheat, a few degrees of straight. This will make for less driveline angle, thus less bind on u-joints. We will make a short driveshaft to a carrier bearing which will sit about flush with the firewall in the tranny tunnel. Then the 2nd driveshaft with a slip joint (to account for the rear suspension movement) will go from there to the diff. No problem he tells me, "it is only money". :whimper:
Ok, more progress, or degress, depends on your viewpoint....
The car was sitting too high in back. I had a 240 lb employee stand in the trunk. It was still to tall.
I can't get all of what I need with a spacer block between the axle and leaf spring because the 13" wheels don't have the clearance for the brackets.... This was my solution. 1st, I got out the torchesh shit, not this again:
I am cutting out the shackle brackets to raise the mounting point, thus lowering the car:
I made some templates out of cardboard, then cut the steel and welded up some new 'towers' for the spring shackles:
I have 2 3/4" of rise in the new 'tower'. This should translate into 1 3/8" lowering of the car because the axle is 1/2 way between the front and rear spring mounts...
Ok, for reference:
Now looks like this. I may still use a 1" or 1.5" block to lower even more:
I also cut the front of the frame some for an extra 1/2" of clearance for the intercooler
The markings are for where I will cut/lower the frame for engine clearance. I need it to sit slightly lower for driveshaft angle and also for hood clearance
Paddleshift setup on a hayabusa powered car!
Apparently, you can't embed videos here...
More work done on the project.... I need the motor to sit a little lower than the frame would allow for hood clearance. I made some frame rails from square channel and welded them on. They are higher up than the sway bar, so no ground clearance issues:
I then torched out the frame where needed:
I boxed in the open ends for looks and strength:
And cleaned them up with the grinder. I may add some gussets as well, undecided so far:
I needed about 1/2" more clearance for the intercooler as well. I cut the front frame rails down, boxed them in, and ground them clean. The intercooler will sit directly on top of the rails and will now clear the 'bonnet'.
More work done, though the going is slow at this point. I'll make a part, then change my mind and start over...
Ok, the motor is in! There are 2 motor mounts on the cylinder head on either side. The 1" square tubing goes from strut tower to strut tower and tabs are welded on to bolt up to both mounts in the head. The 1" tubing bolts to the strut tower so it can be removed to ease ingress and egress of the motor:
I had to trim the top of the footwell for header clearance. The steering column will work as is with just a bit of trimming on the mounting flange:
The header in place... the turbo will bolt on to the flange and sit in there nicely. I originally thought the header and turbo would have to go up:
^^^^^^^^^^^^ Looking at that last pic. Man my right foot is going to be hot unless I come up with some crafty heat shielding :lol:
The clutch is housed in that gold cover. Apparently, I will have to pull the motor to do clutch changes:
I lost about 1.5" of the passenger footwell. That isn't too bad in my opinion. The long bolt with the chain on it is another motor mounting point. I will fab up this mount after my driveshaft is made and in place. I don't want to have interference issues:
The intercooler will sit in front of the steering rack. The radiator and oil cooler will sit between the intercooler and the motor mount bracket:
The bolt/chain are on one of the 2 motor mounting points in this side of the cylinder head. Once again, I will wait for the driveshaft to be in place before I fab the bracket. There is still a fair amount of room back here. If I get that far, I will use a flywheel on the driveshaft and starter motor in this space as a reverse gear:
You can see the lower motor mount just forward of the terminated frame rail. I also removed part of the trans tunnel for driveshaft clearance:
The front driveshaft will go to the center of the 'crossmember' rail of the unibody, just under the hole for the stock shifter. I will have a carrier bearing there and the second driveshaft will go from there to the rear end. Once again, this will all get finished/boxed in after all the hard parts are in place:
Yeah! More progress... The driveline is in.
The front coupler. You can see the sprocket 'we' used to weld the yoke to. My driveline guy said if we put a runout guage on it, it will be within .001". The big center nut holds the 'sprocket' onto the output shaft of the motor. The nut in the lower right is a safety thing, in case the weld fails. There are 2 actually, the other out of view.
The whole front shaft including the carrier bearing
The block is temporary to locate the driveshaft. I will weld in a permenant mount in time. This height reduces the driveshaft angle and extra stress on the u-joints
The view from underneath
Plenty of clearance here. Very little of the footwell is lost. I will add some thicker metal here for safety reasons, in case the driveshaft fails.
I strapped the rear end down. This is much closer to the ride height I am looking for. When I do the 4 link, I will have easy ride height adjustments.
Plenty of clearance here.
The view up through the tunnel.
There is a zerk fitting for the slip joint. The slip joint allows the driveshaft length to change with the movement of the rear suspension.
My driveline guy assured me that zip ties were as good as bolts to hold the shaft to the pinion yoke :lol:
Final view down the tunnel from the front.
Ok, as stated, I decided to 4 link the rear suspension. I finally received the components to build it. This is a Johnny Joint. I have one for the end of each of the triangulated bars. Next to it is the threaded insert so the length is adjustable:
This is the steel tubing I will use for the arms. It is 1 3/4" by .120 wall tubing:
I have poly bushed ends for the other 6 ends. 1/2 of them are right hand threads, 1/2 are left hand threads so length will be adjustable by loosening the jam nuts and twisting the arm, just like a tie rod end:
The threaded insert is a perfect fit for the tubing. I simply cut the tubing to length, then weld in the threaded insert:
Ok, time to build the 4 link rear suspension. First I removed the leaf springs, then position the rear end for some measurements:
Looks good here:
I cut off the leaf spring brackets and ground everything flush:
I cut some patterns for brackets for the 4 link:
and modified the front leaf spring brackets to accept the wider poly bushings I am using:
I cut the front bracket hole to fit the new brackets I made:
Then fit the new brackets:
Next, I welded the threaded inserts into the 'bars' of my 4 link, making sure to use a left hand thread on one end, and a right hand thread on the other. This will allow length adjustment:
I then applied never sieze to the threaded ends:
Time to assemble the lower links/bars:
And the second:
Check for rough fitment:
and installed on the frame end. Next up, the axle end for the lowers and construct the uppers.... but that is for another day.
Wow! I just read back through from page 1. I sure have changed a lot from what I originally envisioned. I am almost 2 years into the project now. I am farther away than when I started. Wish me luck. It looks like 2 more years at this rate. Happy holidays!
Ok, a little more progress....
First, this rear end and tire combo just looks badass, so here is a pic!
Taking some measurements. This one for ground clearance:
This one for driveshaft clearance
This one for pumpkin clearance... and incidentally, I may need to notch the sheet metal for 1/2" more...
The upper arms for the 4 link will take up 3" of room here, so I have to make that the upper stop for suspension compression
I will have 1.5" more compression than where the tire currently bottoms on the fender
I will have 1.5" more compression than where the tire currently bottoms on the fender (continued). I plan to cut the fender up 2" and reweld it on. I decided to allow the tires to stick out past the bodywork instead of doing flares. As little as I plan to drive it, I won't worry about the tires slinging up dirt or getting rock chips....
There will be plenty of room in here once the outer fender lip is raised
Back to making the 4 link. Here is a cardboard pattern and the material for the upper link axle bracket
looks like a winner
and now cut out
I promise, these will all look good once the fab is done and it is all painted...
These ones are for the frame side and will go on the top of the driveshaft tunnel on either side
these are the top 4 link bars with the Johnny Joints on one end
I welded on the upper link brackets to the axle housing, oddly enough though, I didn't get any pics...
I then welded some more metal, for strength, around the driveshaft tunnel where the upper link brackets will attach:
I did finish welding all the way around after the pics were taken
I then welded on the upper brackets
Ok, here are the upper brackets on the axle end
This will be full extension of the suspension!
Here is full compression
This is the driveshaft clearance at full compression
Pinion angle at full compression
And pinion angle at more than full extension. This is acceptable for the u-joints
Full extension... I will have 4.5" of suspension travel. I will spring it for 1.5" of static sag, so 3" of compression, 1.5" of extension
I will have clearance here... a quarter inch to spare (almost )
A little more bracing will be done on the brackets, then it will be time for the coil over mounts!
I built the axle end mounts for the coil overs... I cut apart the stock leaf spring mounts
I cut some steel to fit the axle tube
I then cut the bushing hole out so I could reuse the poly bushings
Then welded it together and assembled it to the shock. I will remove it to weld to the axle housing .... maybe next week... MERRY CHRISTMAS everybody!
Sorry, no updates. I broke some ribs dirtbike racing before x-mas. When I felt better, I found an Evo dirtbike to rebuild for racing. It is done, so back to the MG next week.
Well, after a long hiatus, here goes:
I am working on finishing the rear suspension. I want 4.5" of wheel travel. My coil overs have 2.5" of travel. How do I get from here to there. I fired up my rusty trigonometry skills, then decided they were far too rusty. I made a template instead. I cut welding rod. One piece is the 4.5" travel, one is the 10" compressed length of the strut, one is the 12.5" extended length. I taped them together and had a pattern to tell me where to put the mounts!
I cut and welded in some mounts
And I retained the poly bushings for the lower mounts
Ok, time to move forward: I installed (temporarily) the throttle bodies and intake plenum
The inlet on the plenum is facing down. It will be moved to face forward towards the intercooler and it will be 2.5" instead of 2"
Ahhhh, as I said before, this intercooler is true blue engine porn! This will be its position in the car. It looks like I will have enough room for a radiator behind it, saving me from putting the rad in the trunk...
I will need to replumb the output from the turbo to the intercooler as well. I still haven't figured out where the air intake/filter will be...
Ok, so the manifold sure is sticking up high .... I had to cut a hole in the bonnet. When the bodywork is done, I hope this can be made to look unobtrusive. It can't look like a drag racing car with a big blower sticking out of the hood and still be a sleeper...
Looks like plenty of room for the fuel tank. Sorry Norm, no spare tire or toolbox room left.
I think I will have the battery back here as well when it is all said and done.
I may use a flywheel/ring gear and starter motor for a reverse. This is a 10.25" pattern ... Honda Civic size
I have room, will the starter motor have enough torque???? I am unsure if I will actually do this or go without reverse.
I'd still need to weld up a permanent mount for the starter motor and have my driveline guy mount the flywheel to the front driveshaft. Speaking of which, the civic flywheel weighs 14 lbs.... kind of a lot.
Ahhhh, NEW TOYS!!!
Mig welder with spool gun and argon tank so I can weld aluminum:
Metal brake for bending my sheet metal panels for the car:
Well, in a previous post, Norm I use my MG as a pickup truck Kerr was concerned with my lack of trunk space when the fuel tank and battery are in there. I took his advice to heart. One can now put TONS of stuff in the trunk area and just keep loading!!!
I decided that the floor height was all wrong. I will raise it from where it was and mount the fuel tank underneath. This will give me a platform/floor in there to actually use as storage space.
Well, this was the pattern for my exhaust manifold that I mailed of to Richard at RCC Turbos in Canada:
Here is what he is sending back:
Well, here is the intake with the new 2.5" pipe:
I will run a piece of silicone hose here to the blow off valve, then to the intercooler
Here is the exhaust manifold installed
The front view. The upper pipe is the output from the turbo going to the intercooler
The hole in the center is the intake. It will be piped to the air cleaner. I am not sure how I will shoehorn that in yet....
I played some more with the aluminum mig welder setup. I welded some brackets on to the intercooler
I then mounted it in the car
And started working on the plumbing
I am trying to get the wastegate in this space, but not sure if I will be able to or not...
My friends at www.proflowtech.com serviced my 8 fuel injectors. The flow test them, ultrasonically clean them, then flow test them again.... I reinstalled them. There are 4 injectors on the top of the plenum, the aftermarket ones that are part of the turbo kit. There are the 4 stock ones that go into the throttle bodies.
The blue hoses are fuel lines. I started installing the wiring harness as well
Here are the ECM's, there is one for the bike and one for the secondary injectors, and the voltage regulator
I think I will mount all this stuff on the firewall inside the passenger compartment. It will be behind whatever I decide to do for a dashboard
I know, this looks the same. I got my new springs in though.
It looks like I am pretty close on the spring rates I guessed at
It looks good at this height
My employee is simulating the weight of fuel,battery, etc in the back to achieve correct ride height
Ok, so 20 - 30 psi is a lot to ask out of silicone boots with hose clamps, so the intake plenum needs to be fastened down. I drilled and tapped a hole in the end of 2 of the motor mount bolts.
I then cut, bent, and welded aluminum brackets as hold downs
On both sides of the plenum
I also got in my silicone hose. I piped in the intercooler to blow off valve to plenum.
It is time to fit the fuel tank. I decided to go with the stock midget one, though not in the same location.
It is pushed all the way to the passenger side, but just about the original height. It still bolts on from underneath.
I also fabbed up a battery box back here.
The view from underneath.
This will likely be hidden by 'ground effects' bodywork when all is said and done
I then proceeded to put a 'floorboard' in the trunk. This was more to separate the passenger compartment from the fuel than it was for making space. The radiator is likely to take up any remaining room back here.
I got in the rest of my silicone hoses for the intercooler plumbing. This leaves only the air intake/filter setup yet to be done....
Now, back to: Can't leave well enough alone ... :rolleyes: I was slow at the shop today so I started cutting out metal again.
I decided I wanted to brace the tub more for the upper 4 link bar brackets, so I removed all the sheet metal to do so
I then cut out the floor for replacement
I have rusty inner sill/footwell to replace
This side as well
I started plumbing the intake for the turbo. I haven't decided on a pod filter or a sealed airbox fed by the hood scoop
I put a floor in. It is one piece of 16 guage sheet metal.
I am 'seam welding' it in top and bottom vs. spot welding. This is done on high end vehicles to add rigidity.
I am adding metal along the inner sill
and seam welding, once again for more strength
And some reinforcement where the lower 4 link bars attach
Today I removed the outer panel of the passenger foot well. I put a metal patch in the upright
I then built up the center to the correct level for my driveshaft carrier bearing to bolt to
Finally, I started the cross member bracing
And did some more seam welding
Now the main exhaust, 2.5" straight pipe
I will space the footwell back a couple of inches for clearance and have the pipe exit a hole I cut in the new rocker panel
I left a little room underneath the main exhaust for the exhaust from the wastegate, which will be 1.5" pipe. They will exit piggyback through the rocker panel. I will undoubtedly be putting some heat shielding between the pipes and the footwell.
I finished bracing the tub. I mirrored the 'frame' on the inside of the car underneath. Twice the frame should equal twice the strength! Well, not really, but it will be stronger and hopefully more resistant to twisting under power.
I am cutting, bending, and welding all the metal. Believe it or not, these 3 cross braces took 4 hours to do...
Although these stick down a bit, they are flush with the other frame rails I fabbed up to lower the motor. I will have an inch of ground clearance at full compression of the suspension
The USPS man finally came through and delivered the last piece of pipe for my exhaust
A few cuts and a few welds later...
The slash cut is the finished product ... The govt. would be so proud of my eco friendly exhaust ..
As promised, I moved the electric shifter
I am now working on the clutch slave cylinder mount, then on to rebuilding the foot boxes ...
TEASER: I got my new pedal assemblies and master cylinders last Friday ...
Ok, on to the clutch slave cylinder mount.
First, some more frame. This adds rigidity, gives me a place to mount the slave, and acts as a driveshaft loop in case of driveshaft failure
Then I cut a bracket
Drilled some holes and bolted it up
I felt it would be good to reinforce the upper 4 link brackets
I then closed the area back in
Finally, a sneak preview of the new pedal box. Wildwood master cylinders and pedals. 3/4" clutch, 7/8" and 1" for brakes. The balance can be adjusted between the 2 brake MC's...
Well, I have gotten some work done, but no new pics.
I have gotten the pedal box in, run the hydraulic line to the clutch, and started on the brake lines.
I also temporarily run the fuel line and wires from the pump.
I got my new seats from ebay and did a trial fitting, it will be tight.
If I ever have some more time, I may try to start it.
I promise, new pics at some point.
I started buying single wide mobile homes for rentals. It is keeping me VERY VERY busy, taking all my 'free time' when not working my primary job...
I built this up so I could put a cover on it and keep the engine bay heat out of the passenger compartment. The cover will be removable for access to the MC's.
I ran some temporary fuel line and power wires to the fuel pump
Yes, now I am just being a slacker....
I have been building the trans/driveshaft tunnel. It needs to bolt in so I can remove the driveshaft/flywheel setup for the reverse gear. It has been very time consuming. I must have spent 40+ hours on it now. When done, it will get a one post, 3 pic write up and will look like too many pics for so little work :lol:
I am making progress though and will update soon.
I guess my other excuse would be that I need to start another photobucket account when I start posting pics again
Ok, so sorry for the delays. I have made quite a few changes and haven't been good about taking pics. Here is a start though:
I didn't like the setup I had for the electric shifter, so I changed it. It is oriented front to back and horizontal now.
I removed the old trans tunnel and built a new one.
The front sections of the tunnel will bolt together so I can remove the driveshaft, which has a flywheel welded to it for a reverse gear.
IOk, back to these 2 pics.
You can see the heim joint on the shifter. This is for the shift rod of the manual shifter.
Here is the bottom of the manual shifter with the other heim joint and shift rod.
Here is the reverse gear. The starter motor and flywheel are for a reverse gear only. The bike motor has its own starter. I am hoping that there isn't so much flex in the driveline that I have clearance issues between the flywheel and starter motor.
I put the seat in the car and sat in there so I could locate the manual shifter in a comfortable location. I will likely put a motorcycle handgrip on it instead of a pistol grip or knob...
Here is the front of the tunnel installed. I had to make a clearance hole for the solenoid on the reverse starter. I will cover it with some rubber (probably a cut inner tube) for electrical insulation, then in theory, carpet will cover that if/when the interior is done.
I had some sag in the unibody because I had so much metal removed. I removed the doors and windshield support/firewall to get everything straight again. Here is it back together
I am quite happy with the door alignment now
The seams all have equal gaps
The vent window frame to windshield turned out perfect as well
Ok, throttle time...
There are 3 cables here. The top one is the fuel enrichener circuit (choke), the middle is a throttle 'push' cable. It will be eliminated in favor of a heavier return spring. The bottom is the throttle 'pull' cable. This is the one that needs to go to the gas pedal.
I drilled the appropriate sized hole to feed it into the footwell
I cut the end of the throttle lever off and welded it into the middle because 1. the cable was too short, and 2. the angle wasn't quite right for my application
Here is how it looks finished. All the pedals are in place.
Finally, the 3/4" clutch master cylinder was pushing too much fluid. I had about 1/4" total of useable clutch pedal movement. I called Wilwood for another. They sent a 5/8" one. It is much better. Anyone want to buy a 3/4" master cylinder? Used once, 1/2 what I paid for it new...
I have been working on brake lines. The top of the pic is the mc for the front brakes, the middle for the rear brakes.
The splitter for the front lines.
and front caliper braided line to hard line connection
I then started to work on the tangled mess known as the wiring harness
This is the stock CDI box and microtech fuel controller for the 2nd set of injectors. They will be mounted on the firewall on the inside of the passenger compartment. The voltage regulator will be on the engine side of the firewall
Here is the instrument panel and the ignition switch (held on by the vice grips and hidden in this pic by the steering wheel)
Voltage regulator mounted on the firewall
Starter solenoid (for the bike engine starter, not the reverse gear starter) in its permenant location
The microtech fuel controller is mounted. The CDI is still dangling though. I drilled another hole here for the wiring harness. I am wondering if I can find grommets big enough for that hole
I also put the seat in today. I ended up removing the sliding rails for forward/back adjustment. This lowered it over 2". I then disassembled the seat and shaved 3" padding off of the backrest. I still barely fit in the car. My legs are still slightly cramped. Remember, I lost 3" of footwell due to my exhaust routing....
Sorry, I didn't take pics of the seat disassembly.
The seat is still pretty tall.
Ok, so the battery is going in the trunk. I need a power lead for the bike wiring harness/starter and another for the reverse gear starter. This means I need a splitter of some sort. I didn't easily find anything to fit the bill, so I made one.
I have a round cylinder of high density plastic.
I cut off a block
I drilled a hole through it
Made the hole big enough for a bolt head
I countersunk the bolt after I heated it. This will keep it in there solid.
double nut the top to pinch the battery cable eye fittings
This is the bulk battery cable and eye fittings I bought
Time for a radiator. I consulted with Griffin radiator in SC. They indicated that I could achieve the cooling I needed with the space I have available. Good news for me, I don't have to put the rad in the trunk. I started by taking measurements of my available space. I then mocked up a rad out of foam
I used pieces of hose for the 1" fittings for the inlet and outlet hoses
The 3rd hose goes to the thermostat housing. It was the setup on the bike, so keeping it the same here
The radiator cap will be about 4" behind the radiator so I don't have hood clearance issues
I am having them put a bung for the fan switch on the passenger side, not pictured here. This will be the location in the car.
The specs: 12" tall, 16" wide, 3" deep. It is a cross flow, 2 pass radiator. It uses 1 1/4" tubes, 2 core. $600 plus shipping.
I finished the slight reroute of the plumbing to the intercooler (radiator clearance issues)
I think I will use the stock fan from the Hayabusa for the radiator fan
This will leave room for the air intake, the blue hose sticking up
Since I do not plan to put a top back on it, I decided to lose the vent windows.
With no vent windows, there is no point in having door windows. I will put the inner door panel back on.
I saved more weight than I added with that aluminum radiator. What are good windows and regulators worth? Need new rubber trims....
I like the look of the older models with no exterior door handles. Can I remove the exterior handle and still have the interior handle mount up and work properly? I didn't take a close enough look.
Progress today! It won't look like much in pictures though. I ran all the vacuum lines to the turbo, boost controller, waste gate, and blow off valve. I filled the motor with oil as well. I turned it over by hand for a bit, then with the starter motor to get oil thoroughly circulated in the motor. The boost controller will be in the passenger cabin
I also welded on a quick release steering hub adapter
And here is the hub. I expect I will see my new steering wheel on Mon. I anticipate shipping delays with the weather. I went with a 320mm wheel. The stocker was about 395mm.
Here is the new 320mm steering wheel mounted to the quick release hub. The wheel has 2 electric buttons on it. I will hook those to my electric shifter.
The fuel pump's permanent home. I dropped the tank to hook up the fuel sender. With any luck, the voltage will be in the ballpark with the bikes needs.
Woohoo! 1st test drive in the books. This thing is insane. It is raining here today, but rolling into the throttle in the first 3 gears just lights up the tires. The gearing is fairly close on initial observation. Sorry, no video. It was scary to drive in the rain, so I didn't want to try to hold the camera in 1 hand and drive with the other. What is interesting is I haven't turned up the boost yet. I am likely only making 250 hp or so right now on 5 or 6 psi....
The clutch MC needs work. There is too little engagement range, about 1/4 inch....
The brakes are horrible. I will have to run it in the dry, do some testing, and formulate a plan. It may have just been new shoes and pads not bedded in and wet.
It is pretty loud inside. With any luck, insulation and carpet will help.
Welcome back Mike! Where were you?
Here is a short video. I need to write myself some shifter instructions... I had shifted up into 5th or 6th trying to find 1st and stalled it a few times before I got it all figured out. At the 2:20 mark, I am on the highway in 2nd gear and you can hear the engine rev quickly. That is the tires breaking loose and spinning up.
Here is a short 2nd video of me coming back. I modified the clutch. It is much better. I'll post up pics of the latest work next week. Also, whoever indicated that the vent windows really help, I have to agree. They will be going back on.
Click for video.
Ok, another test drive today, but no video. The gearing seems a little short. I guessed about 60-65 mph was 6,500 rpms. I have 3.73 R&P. The smallest I have found is 3.08 which likely still wouldn't put me where I would like to be. I would still be about 5,400 rpms at cruising speed. I would prefer to be closer to 4k... more testing is needed with a GPS for a speedometer.
At any rate, the cooling fan is hooked up. The bike was already set up with a fan switch, so this is all automatic turn on/off, just plug and play.
I am using a piece of Luan for a dashboard, at least for now
I bolted it in, then trimmed with an air saw, then sanded
I then mounted the instrument panel
Transmission Gear Teeth (Ratios)
6th 24/ 23 (1.043:1)
Transmission Overall Ratios
6th 3.918: 1
I was pretty steady with traffic in a 55 mph zone, so I figured 60-65 ....
I will confirm with GPS before I do anything drastic.
A couple of interesting videos
Well, apparently this thing vibrates quite a bit. I lost 2 exhaust bolts
And header bolts were loosening up. Time to get out the drill bits and safety wire!
I also installed my hood pins, one on each side. That's all for now, but something...
The jackass who worked for me didn't tighten down the driveshaft retaining nut. It came loose. It did thousands in damage. It is mostly repaired at this point, but I am waiting to have a new driveshaft built.
Sorry for the delays folks...
The new driveshaft is in. I am working on hooking up more gauges. I am also planning on dyno time to tune the motor. I will post pics and updates when I have something useful to share
This thing is a bit buzzy. Nuts and bolts don't want to stay tight. The exhaust is too hot for Loctite, so it get's the safety wire treatment:
The manifold bolts are all done. We are now working on the turbo flange bolts and the wastegate bolts.
Ok, new driveshaft pics. Looks like the old! Under the front you can see the new shifter star cover and new end of the shift rod (heim joint). It was all trashed when the driveshaft came off. The shift star broke, the engine cases broke (but were repairable), the shift shaft, driveshaft, clutch slave cylinder, and lots of sheet metal were casualties as well. The passenger seat got burned as there was a fire. The driveshaft took out the fuel line in the tunnel and the hot wire from the battery, bad combo: pumping/spraying fuel and electricity arcing.
The reverse starter survived, but the mounts all got trashed
I need to make new mounts for a new clutch slave
It lives again! I fired it up and let it run for 5 minutes. I just called the tuner to make an appointment for a day on the dyno.
Ok, my camera is about done I guess. It only flashes when it wants to. Thus, I can only get pics when the car is outside....
I did the base plate for the carrier bearing on the driveshaft. I also installed a new clutch slave cylinder with a fulcrum that gives 3:1 leverage ratio. This was to give me more engagement throw at the pedal. It appears to work as I had hoped.
The driveshaft tunnel is all back in now as well. I have to check torque on all the fasteners, install the driver's seat, then off to the dyno!
Ok, I actually feel like I am letting you guys down. The car is reassembled. I loaded it in my 6 x 12 enclosed trailer to take to the tuner and neglected to snap a couple of pics. I brought the camera and everything, just failed to perform.
At any rate, the car is dropped off. I should have some preliminary numbers in a few days and some final numbers in 2 weeks or less.
Wish us luck. I will be truly disappointed if we don't see 400 hp on pump fuel. If we don't see those numbers, I will put off the race fuel tune for a bit while I finish other aspects of the project.
A big thanks to Tim Nash at Gurued Gear (dot com). He sent me a few pics. He is the tuner. I was told he will try to get a baseline run tomorrow or Friday. We may need to order a special cable to hook up to the microtech fuel controller for tuning though. This will put us back a few days on the actual tuning process.
Pushing it into the shop:
Ready to go on the dyno
Very clean and tidy shop. Tim has a professional air about him, as well. I felt quite comfortable leaving my toy in his hands
Bad news. I got it to the shop for some troubleshooting. It is an internal engine problem (the transmission is in the engine cases). I am removing the motor again so I can split the cases and see how much more $$$ this is going to cost me....
I made a vibration damper for that clutch fulcrum, all is well now. Sorry, no pics of that yet. I loaded it back up in the trailer to bring back to Guruedgear.com for the dyno time
I did get the pics of it in the 6' x 12' enclosed trailer
Hopefully some dyno numbers are forthcoming!
Ok, the car has done 5 miles or so on the dyno. That motor has all the break in time it needs now.
The gearing is a lot better with the 2.73:1 ring and pinion. According to the dyno, 6th gear is 4k rpms at about 50 mph. That is a reasonable highway cruising speed rpm (5k or so at highway speed) and with a 10,500 redline, it should go faster than I care to go top end wise....
We should have some baseline numbers before the weekend is out!
As for the tuner: This man's attention to detail is amazing! He is going above and beyond for me on this project. If you folks ever need any high performance tuning for cars or bikes, give him a call. You will not be disappointed.
This is a pic of a scope hooked up to the crank sensor. I appear to be having a slight signal issue. This is delaying the tuning. I have a new stator assembly on order. The crank sensor is part of the stator assembly...
Ok, some research showed the crank sensor signal is what it should be. We now moved to the camshaft sensor. It is showing a lot of advance, as it should. The motor has degreed cams... This amount of advance may be causing a conflict in the ECU though, more investigation is needed.
The blue sine wave is a stock Hayabusa, the grey is mine.
Ok, both cams were one tooth off. The valves were opening too soon. I can't blame this on the engine builder though. One of the parts with the alignment/timing marks must have been from a different year motor. They were all lined up correctly, but still not right. I had to find TDC with a runout gauge, then set the valve timing. The car just got dropped back off at the tuners!
We finally have a baseline run! The a/f ratio is far too fat at 10:8:1. This baseline is at 8 psi. The tuner will get back to it next week. He will start turning up the boost and dialing in the fuel. 218 h.p. is just the beginning! He has the ok to go to 30 psi of boost if needed
We are up to 320 hp at close to 16 psi boost. We were have a pressure leak from the rubber boots going from the plenum to the head .... time to fix that, then more boost! It is time to test that electronic shifter as well.
I heard from the tuner. He is doing some last 'tweaks' to the tune and I should have it back on Friday. I know I have been on this project for close to 4 years now, but I am actually a little anxious to get the car back and go for a proper drive. Does this seem strange?
I finally picked it up from the dyno. It made a high of 338 hp at the rear wheels in the slightly cooler weather. I did a quick drive (no pun intended ). It runs MUCH better. The throttle response is smooth. It is quite driveable!
The tuner told me he would get the dyno videos uploaded at some point and send me a link.
I will be a while before I can drive and get some videos though.
Big thanks again to www.guruedgear.com
A couple of pics for now. I may have a short video later today... I went for a short drive. I need to work on the shifter mechanism. There is too much flex in the shift rod. The car now starts easily, idles well, and has very smooth power delivery as well as on/off throttle changes.
On the dyno
More realistic angle...
Ok, as promised, a couple of videos. I am a bit gun shy driving here. I want to get in some seat time before I really get into the power. I don't think I revved the motor past 8k rpms or so. It redlines at 11k or so. I am just concerned that I may end up doing donuts on the highway inadvertently..... When the roll cage is in, I will feel more comfortable.
I really loved the sound of the blow off valve on the 2nd video at 45 seconds or so.... But, yes, I think it sounds good. I was worried that it would be obnoxiously loud. It is not, outside the vehicle. It IS obnoxious when inside and driving though.... When I get sound proofing and carpet inside, it should be much better.
This thing is a blast to drive. I am hoping to get a lot more seat time in over the next few weeks.
We were working on the electric shift and the speedometer pickup today, creature comforts.
Ther is an autocross here where I live in 2 weeks. I think I will try to make that for some fun!
I still need to make it to a 'closed course' environment so I can get into the throttle at high RPMs and feel the real power.
In the first video, you can hear the boost coming on for a split second when I shift to second gear ... I am still being a wuss. I still had 4k rpms to go in 1st gear
Ok, a little more progress, but no pics, sorry ...
We are struggling with getting the speedo to work.
The electric shifter is full operational.
The headlights are in.
Roll cage is next.
Videos of driving and the electric shifter are forthcoming.
Been busy at work, but a little progress.
Headlights are installed and hooked up
I got my new gauges in. Wideband air fuel meter, oil pressure, volt meter, boost/vac gauge, fuel pressure (already had), and clock. I got the clock to make 6 gauges for symmetry on the dash. I replaced a couple of gauges I had so they all match.
Thanks Jimmy ... yes, intercooler, not radiator.
I have the 6 pack of gauges in, but neglected to snap a pic.
I Signed up for an autocross this weekend, but apparently have problems. They are being ball busters. Instead of running novice, they want the car in modified. Modified requires a full roll bar, several point harnesses, and all sorts of other crap. I am pissed. I searched diligently on the website ahead of time. I tried to figure out all of the info. I could find no phone number to call and ask questions, so I signed up in good faith. Now, I am signed up, they likely won't let me run, and they don't do refunds :rolleyes:
At any rate, pics of the gauges tomorrow.... and maybe some pre fab on the rollbar.
I will be working on the roll bar soon. I researched how to cut/ notch the tubing to fit it at angles. Outside of a nice $10,000 tool, it appears that a paper pattern and cutting torch is the way to go. I found a program online to print the paper patterns for a given tubing size, wall thickness, and angle of intersection.
Here is the pic of the new gauges, installation is still in progress.
Also, here is a nice fuse block. It includes a row for constant power as well as a row for keyed power. All one needs to do to switch between the 2 is move the fuse over.
A little progress today. A battery tie down
Sheet metal over the diff. The only stuff the metal shop had that was thin enough was galvanized. I will make some boots to encase the coil overs. I will likely separate the passenger compartment from the boot at some point as well.
Here are the gauges. The video is not in focus, but all the gauges are working properly. I hooked up a horn too. I still think I want the old time Aoooga horn though.
Made the cover for the pedal box
Still have this piece of firewall to fill in
I was getting too much flex in the all thread I used for a shift rod, so changed it out for this. It was a 3/8" drive extension in a previous life
The last piece of the firewall is in place
And the air box is almost done. It will be fitted to the bonnet with some foam weather strip to seal it off from the hot air coming from the intercooler, radiator, oil cooler, and motor. I suppose it will work as a ram air as well provided that the hood scoop isn't in a low pressure area of the bonnet. We will never know though, as it will likely never make it to a wind tunnel.
I am over most sort of competition at this point in life. I am more into enjoying everything I can. I can also say with relative certainty that I wouldn't have anything to 'compare' my ride to because it is so different.
As far as the autocross, SCCA wanted to classify me in some purpose built racing class and make me conform to their safety standards. There are current production cars with better performance that aren't required to meet the same standards. I don't need the hassle. I will seek my entertainment elsewhere. As for the autocross: I can set up my own orange cones in a parking lot and not have to deal with a bunch of pretentious assholes
On a side note, I worked on the roll bar today and will likely have some pics before the weekend.
Now, time to remove it, finish the welding, and perhaps paint it.
Looks like that guy in the orange car is sitting on the floor, not in a seat. Eith that or he is 4'11" tall...
I had originally intended, and bought the material, for the 2 hoop setup. I decided against it for the reason of appearance. My seats are not installed in the car symmetrically due to the angled driveshaft. If I did the 2 hoop setup, either they wouldn't be evenly spaced in the car or they wouldn't be even to the seats. Therefore, I went with the 1 bar style.
The material is 1.75" x .120 wall DOM, not seamed tubing. One would have a heck of a time convincing me that it wasn't far stronger than everything it is attached to... I'll stake my life on the fact that it isn't the weak point in an accident.
The roll bar will be faired and painted at some point.
I am now working on installing a power port: 12v power outlet and a USB charger. I will be working on the speedometer after that, it still isn't hooked up and functional.
I installed the 4 point harnesses
Well, apologies to all, no video. I went for a drive today. The weather was beautiful! It was mid 60's and sunny, perfect weather for a convertible. The car drives very well. The power delivery is linear, smooth and predictable, until 7500 rpm's or so. Then it is game on. I didn't try faster than 4th gear, but it lit up the tires rolling on in 4th climbing above the 7500 mark. I guess that was about 80 mph or so.... I am unsure if I like the 2:73 gears, I may go back to the 3:73. It is, of course, more comfortable at highway cruising speeds, but requires me to be going 30 mph or so to be in the power in 1st gear.
If I can get a volunteer at some point, I will have them hold the video camera.
Any British car rallies I can attend here in the sunny south this winter?
I had pondered a billet basket. There are a few companies that make them. That one is close to twice as much as some other brands with good reputations. If I get a new turbo at some point, to get to the 500 hp range, I will include the clutch basket in the cost estimate.
I am still trying to get someone to ride with me and hold a video camera... maybe this weekend?
I made some adjustments to the 4 link geometry yesterday. I was getting too much squat under acceleration. I was bottoming the suspension, then any sort of bump was upsetting the chassis. It seems to be a little better now, but more fine tuning may be in order.
Ok, videos aren't too good, but the first is a 3rd gear roll on, the 2nd is a 4th gear roll on. You can hear the tires light up in both gears when the turbo spools up. You can see the speedo jump as well as it is connected to the driveshaft. The speedo calibration is off a bit too. 50 mph indicated is about 60 mph. I have a speedo healer that will fix that. I just need to spend the 30 seconds and actually do it while driving.
I made some 4 link adjustments. I got rid of the excessive squat under acceleration, but lost a bunch of traction. I may go back to the original setting and try stiffer rear springs.
I decided on this setup for the handbrake. It is a 'cut to length' system. I hope it gives me the leverage I need to do some sliding around (in case the motor won't do it)
Sorry for the long absence folks, life is getting in the way of this hobby...
I had to remove the turbo, weld up a crack, and order a new flange gasket. I also remade the clutch release lever and redesigned the speedometer pickup. Nothing glamorous there, so no pics.
I haven't ordered the parking brake setup yet.
I am now looking for mirrors though. I want the fender mounted style. Does anyone have any real world experience with them. I want some that are actually useful/useable.
Awww crap ....
Get one thing done and another creeps up. I was having a problem with shifting the transmission after getting on the power hard. I didn't have enough throw on the clutch. I went back to the 3/4" master from the 5/8" master, problem solved!
On my first test drive, when the shifting was resolved, I pulled in to a u-turn on the highway and the idle was hanging at 5,000 rpm. I pulled it back into the shop and started troubleshooting. I haven't found the problem yet. I am assuming it is some sort of sensor issue, but the diagnostics are very limited. I have an appointment on Sat. with the tuner as he has much better computer/scanning equipment. My first instinct is a faulty TPS. We will see.
I had actually brought the camera to get more video, but aborted that mission when the new trouble arose.
Well, I'll be.... I have never seen this before.
All the sensors are ok. I bent a throttle plate butterfly in one of the throttle bodies. It was causing the other three to hang open. I bent it back for now, but likely need to buy a new set of throttle bodies.
I will try to go driving tomorrow and get some video. It is supposed to be close to 80 degrees and sunny here
Ok, new discovery. I need 2 hands to drive this thing. I went down a nice twisty road and was unable to video while driving. The car does handle as well as I expected though! I am getting used to the power delivery. Itt does light up the tires in 6th gear too when the turbo spools up. I was practicing 'pedaling' it today trying to not kill myself. I have one short video of a 3rd gear roll on while pedaling it to keep down the wheel spin. The speedo is calibrated correctly to my GPS. It reads 58 at an actual 60 mph.
I dug my contour cam out of mothballs. I d/l'd the latest software for it. I will try to get some real footage in the next couple of days....
What view do y'all want?
Rollbar view of dash and forward?
Hood facing forward?
Undercarriage looking at rear tires and suspension?
View of me holding on for dear life trying to make the shifts while keeping everything in line?
An inquiring mind wants to know :p
Ok, I got the camera mount attached to the rollbar facing forward. With any luck, we will get views of the dash and the road ahead. The Contour cam does 1080p at 25 or 30 frames per second, so hopefully it will look good!
I also welded up a fire extinguisher mount today. I did not have my still camera with me though, so no pics until tomorrow.
On the lower cross bar of the rollbar, in the center, is the camera mount
Hopefully I can get some video today. If so, I will edit this evening and post tomorrow...
I also mounted the fire extinguisher
I used the hanger that comes with it, welded up another bracket with anti vibration foam in it, and will use a velcro strap to hold it down
This is in 1080p, full screen is best. You can see the tach and speedo...
The fun starts close to the 4 minute mark. Methinks this will be a very capable autocross car.
Open youtube and watch it in fullscreen mode.
Thanks for the kind words and encouragement everyone!
Phil, so far the brakes appear to be up to the task. I have not used them extensively from high speeds as would happen on a roadrace course yet though. With autocross courses being under 60 seconds most times, I don't think that will be an issue. I did buy some of the Castrol SRF brake fluid at $60/ Qt though. It has a boiling point of 500 degrees and should be good insurance against brake fade. I also plan to duct cooling air from next to the intercooler intake and direct it onto the front rotors.
Twice in this video, I have a little shifting problem. It doesn't seem to happen when driving hard, only when short shifting. I think the linkage may be binding a little or dragging on something.
I also had a problem with the intake hoses popping off at the clamps when hard on the boost. I will need to find a better way to secure them.
I also am seeing too rich fuel trim when cruising. I am getting some 10:1 and even lower. This is rich enough to wash cylinder walls. I think the boost controller may have gotten moved providing the wrong boost pressures as well as I see over 20 psi on the boost gauge occasionally.
These things are projects, so I will continue to work out 'issues' as they arise.
At any rate, one more video for good measure. The next one should be some live autocross action!
The starter is fixed. The intake hoses are back together and holding. I have now started rust mitigation. There is a lot of flash rust from having bare metal. I started brushing on Ospho as a temporary fix.
I managed to get the e-brake installed. Where to put it was a problem, there is so little room in the passenger compartment with the seats I have. I went with the 16" handle. This should make the Ken Block maneuvers easy
Well, apparently this car driving stuff is tough. I'll admit, it isn't my specialty. I am a motorcycle racer. I had to learn that cutting the throttle mid corner make the back come around I did 12 runs. I got lost on 2, spun on 6, and had 4 clean ones.
The tires on the concrete runway provided excellent grip. I ran 20 psi. They actually had a little heat in them by the end of a few runs. The grip actually kept straight line wheelspin to a minimum. I'll head back to the tuner and add some more boost to fix that :p
I ended up 12th or 13th for the day, not too impressive. I am sure I will fare much better with some more practice though. I was holding us back, not the car.
A video for your viewing pleasure. Open it in full screen, it is much better.
I am going through the car this morning. I found a few issues.
1. A vacuum line was off of the boost controller. It felt weak while driving. I likely was losing a bunch of boost pressure (horsepower).
2. The drive shaft flange at the pinion lost 2 of the 4 bolts. The other 2 were loose. These now have safety wire on them.
3. I have a little mist of brake fluid from a fitting on the left front.
4. A wire to one of the secondary injectors was chaffed. I may not have been getting consistent signal to that injector (more power loss).
5. Some exhaust bolts that weren't safety wired were loose. They will get wired.
A couple of pics...
I have investigated wind tunnels. It looks like a trip to NC and $1000 will get me 2 hours of test/tune time. I want to get a splitter and wing built and have plenty of easy adjustment before I go. Does anyone know about this stuff? Is a splitter that sticks out farther forward more effective? All the ones I see appear to be level with the ground.
The larger rear tires were rubbing the 4 link bars a bit. I need to space out the wheels. 1/4" should do it. I bought some 1/4" aluminum plate
Cut the center hole
And drilled the holes for the wheel studs. I was too cheap to buy the 6" holesaw for the outside, so I just ground it close to round
I am renting Little Talladega GP for a day in the next couple of months, most likely on a Mon. It will be an open test and tune. Anyone want to join? It will give you eight 20 minute sessions, cost $225 for the day.
Picked up the big sheet of aluminum for the splitter
I am mounting it in quick release fashion. I will need to take it off to get the hood open.
The mounting bracket has adjustability for the angle to the ground. This will be important as I adjust ride height and front to rear stance.
I did another autocross last Sat. It went much better. I am improving my driving skills, but the tires were the biggest difference. The Hoosiers have feel to them. The grip is much better than the Toyos as well. I did not have time to finish the splitter before the event. I did get the rear wing on though.
Lots of grip and lots of horsepower, what a combo! I put a red line on the tires at the valve stem. This wheel spun inside the tire.
An update on my long absence:
I was at an autocross. The head gasket started leaking. I have more money than time though, so I kept running it. After it shut itself off, I brought it home. I replaced the melted pistons, the scored cylinder block, repaired the crack in the head, resurfaced the head, and did a valve job.
This problem was most likely caused buy bent throttle butterflies causing a lean cylinder or 2. The throttle butterflies bent when I had a backfire through the throttle bodies. I have since purchased and installed stronger stainless steel butterflies.
I have also added a water/methanol injection system. The methanol raises the octane and the water cools the pistons/combustion chambers/exhaust ports.
I rushed and got the motor/car back together for my track day at Lil Tally. I hauled up there, but only got in 4 laps. The bearing in the turbo failed. I had no boost/power.
The car is now back at home. I sent the turbo off to have it identified and a replacement matched as close as possible. I also ordered new wheels for the car. They will look the same, but be 8" wide front and 12" wide rear instead of 6" and 8". I have some wider and stickier Hoosier race rubber coming for them.
When the new turbo arrives, I will have it back at the dyno for a retune.
Just another electronic controller on the dash.... This is for the water/methanol injection
This is the pump. I repurposed the radiator overflow tank as a water/methanol tank
I then installed a radiator overflow on the other side in front of the pedal box
I have new tires for roadracing. I am waiting for the new wheels to mount them on though.
They are 12.5" wide rears and 9.5" wide fronts...
I have the new Garrett GT2871R turbo in. I will have to do a little more fab/replumbing to get it in though.
More trials and tribulations. I have the new turbo all plumbed up, exhaust remade, etc. I start the engine to check for leaks in the oil and water feed lines to the turbo and I am not running on all cylinders. After some troubleshooting I have narrowed it down to either a wiring harness issue of a bad powertrain control module (brain box/ECM). Did the prince of darkness possess my fine Suzuki electrics?
Ok, got the wiring figured out. An aftermarket fuse box failed. I got the rear fenders trimmed up and rewelded, still have the fronts to go. I like the stance though! It should go to the dyno this weekend or early next week.
I dropped it off at the dyno again. The instructions were drop the boost from 15 lbs to 13 lbs and crank in more timing. The timing will be possible due to the better fuel and the water/methanol injection.
I also asked for a top speed number, which his dyno will display, and some video. I hope to have it back next week some time.
Update from the dyno: The tuner says this turbo spools up much faster than the old one. He is having trouble with the wastegate though. It isn't working properly. I may need to rebuild it or get a new one. He said it failed to open once, his boost pressure gauge spiked to its max reading of 26psi and his dyno got a 390 hp figure at 7,000 rpms (redline is 11,000). :cringe: Good thing the motor is built to handle that type of abuse.
It is likely to be another week before I get it back.
It is finally back from the tuner. We ran less boost, more timing advance, better fuel, and have a water/methanol injection system up and running. I didn't get a top hp number. I let off at under 10k rpms, had another 1k to go to redline. We kept the boost under 14 psi. The high number I got was 339 hp, 199 torque. The first vid is a 5th gear run, short of redline and at about 130 mph. The 2nd run was 6th gear, 1k rpms under redline and about 160 mph. I can't imagine ever having the stones to go that fast in this car though...
Ok, I am all loaded up for an autocross tomorrow with FCRC http://www.floridacorvetteracing.com/ at the Brooksville, FL airport tomorrow. We'll see what this new tune does for me. This will be the first run with the new front splitter as well, though I doubt it will have too much effect at the low speeds we attain (less than 80 I imagine). I'll try to get some video and post on Monday.
Ok, my best time was a 36.9 second. The best time of the day was a 33.5. I don't know if it was a good time or not though. It was a test and tune, so penalty seconds for cones weren't added to the raw scores. Anyway, this is a quick post. I am off to ride a 4.5 hour enduro tomorrow, wish me luck. I haven't been on my dirtbike since Thanksgiving.
Ok, this summer is paint and body time!
Who would like to put together some color schemes for me to ponder????
I was thinking a dark metallic green (sorry, not British racing green) with silver racing stripes.
I thought a silver metallic for the underbody and under the hood. I forget who, maybe Hap, who suggested the light color under hood to make it easier for our old eyes to see stuff....
I also thought I would have the roll bar chromed.
As I asked, throw up suggestions. Photoshop stuff and/or pics are welcomed.
Thanks in advance.
I have another autocross next weekend. Things should go far better now that it is hot out. I have done a couple of street runs and the tires are hugely better with heat in them.
On the grip note, I have some old 14" wheels from my Ranger that fit the rear hubs on the midget. I ordered some super cheapy skinny 14" tires to put on them. Smoke show/donut videos are forthcoming, as soon as I find a suitable place to do it. I don't care to go to jail after all...
The autocross went well. It is fun to say the least. I am finally getting the hang of driving a car fast.
I put the 185/60-14 tires on my old ranger wheels and went for a short drive ... VERY SHORT. Trying to go straight down the highway at 50 mph had the back end weaving back and forth. I can only assume it was the sidewalls rolling (even though I had 40 psi in the tires). I came back and switched out the wheels back to the DOT race tires. So, unfortunately, I have no smokeshow/ burnout videos for you.
I went to a car show last night which required a 15 mile drive down a straight highway. I did a few roll ons and raced a buddy in his 2012 5.0L Mustang from a 10 mph roll. The MG was pulling hard and getting great traction. I hit 120 mph in 4th gear, still spinning a bit but tracking straight. The car actually felt stable at that speed and I just walked away from the Mustang right from the start.
No video as that could be incriminating evidence.
Well, long story short, I took the car to the dump today...
I used their scales to weigh it. How embarrassing, time to go on a diet. It weighed in, fully fueled at #1660. I guess all the 18 gauge sheet metal I used added up. On the bright side, I did make the chassis stiff enough. I have no twisting issues.
Ok, 6 years later! I think this summer is paint and body time.
I plan on a dark green with a fair amount of metal flake. I think I will do a silver rally stripe in the chameleon paint that appears and disappears depending on viewing angle.
I want to do the undercarriage, underhood, and interior in silver metallic. I want some contrasting color for the suspension bits. Any suggestions on what would compliment my planned paint scheme? I don't think black is it, not sure if yellow would work....
Money is not an issue, but not sure if chroming it all would be practical.
Well, go figure, Amazon Prime gives me photo hosting! NEVERMIND, it isn't working when I hotlink.
I have the whole tub in primer. No shots of the bottom, but it is done as well. I am hoping to shoot the silver tomorrow.
My flash only works when it feels like it. The metallic silver paint looks much better in person.
Coming back together, steering rack painted, gauges trial fit for the wiring, need to be removed for the carbon fiber look vinyl to be installed on the dash panel
Ok. moving suspension bits are painted
One in the light, better idea of the color
Getting things installed, but had a brain fart. I didn't install the gear indicator for the paddle shift system. It goes behind the clutch, which won't come out unless the motor is pulled (last pic). I guess the motor is coming back out. It shouldn't be too bad, plenty of practice at this point.