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Compliments of JetBLICK @ theminiforum.co.uk
This is a little formal intro for me and my ongoing project. I joined the forum a while ago, and you may have seen a few of my posts dotted about, but i thought I'd properly show you all my bab and our story so far, enjoy....
Well, she started life as a 1988 Jet Black. In the end of October '04 she was bought for the grand sum of £950 with 40,000 odd miles on the 998, from a lad in Essex To be fair tho - i do think it was his missus' car, as it was fairly standard and he had his own (very nice) 1380.
Anyhoo, when i got the car it had already lost most traces of being a JetBlack. It had white cooper stripes, a pinstripe and a chrome grill *mmmm shiny* First thing i did was add angel eye headlights and 4 angel eye spots, the clear rear lenses, and a stage1 kit.
Then over christmas i got and fitted some posepacks and luverly white centre 12x6 minilights
Passed my test Feb '05 and 4 weeks later stacked it in the back of a golf
After lots of arguments and shouting with the insurance company, finaly got it repaired for a very very reasonable £500, which i wasn't too bothered about because the front was rotting away anyway.
When i got it back i decided not to put the stripes back on, as i thought it looked better without We had lots of fun that summer, we road trip'd to nuki and she behaved all the way there and back (6 hr round trip)
Then off to uni that year, and she must have got pissed off from me neglecting her, because come christmas hol's she was a bi@tch! Kept going wrong, and when i finally fixed her got her running sweet as a nut, on new years eve, she decided that life wasn't worth living and sent me into the middle of an island and up onto a sign post. Later we found out there was a crash on the same roundabout earlier in the day and oil was left in the road *tut tut* Unfortunatly the roundabout lies on the boundery inbetween worcestershire and gloucestershire, and neither council will own up and because we had no good evidence, there was nowt we could do
And to this day that post i bent still hasn't been fixed....
Anyhoo, enough rambling, this is where the fun starts properly :D:D.....
Me Dad's house don't have a garage, whereas before i could take the car to his and he would help me, from here on it was me on my own. My first obstical was trying to convince mother dearest to let me take over our garage, after trying various methods i found that this was a situation that could only be resolved by starting work whist she was out
Car went straight up on axle stands and took all the wheels off - thus making it impossible for mother dearest to move the car
Front off... ...i like angle grinders
Engine out and strip'd
SMB Kevlar front end, CF bonnet and CF boot
Then got myself some of those fancy flip front brackets from the US of A
They where a pain in the arse to fit, but we got there eventually
Then various accessories where offered up so the positioning, holes and bracketry could be drilled etc... before the bodyshop.
Then the car went off to paint, whilst it was there i sorted the engine out
Cleaned a little, before spliting it up (as you can see we have a very tidy garage)
Comparing a 3.1 and the 4.1
Had the fly lightened
Fitted a kent 286 cam and duplex timing gear - also pocketed the block with my trusty dremel
Recon'd the head with double valve springs
Then put it all together with the carbs after a good clean and fresh paint
Heres a little vid of it running in the garage - he he
Finally the got the body back, all rot repaired and fresh coat of paint
Then just had to put it all back together - shiny bits first of course
Recon'd some metty turbo vented calipers, with new pistons and seals
Then a few other boring bits, windows, brakes, seats...
...Then went on the first drive...
... at first we only got to about 5500 rpm, which i was a bit dissapointed about, but after I got an MOT and got a few miles on the motor she started to loosen up nicely and got to 8000rpm I decided that i couldn't be arsed to run the motor in properly because; A - i hadnt changed any bearings and the pistons had not been disturbed, the pockets wer done with them n place and B - by this time i only had a week left of sunner holiday to enjoy the car before i went back to uni, so i did just that.
So, heres what it looked like when it was finished...
and on the first night i took it out, all the mini's where out and with fresh, un-polished paint we decided to go rallying
The morning after... (doesn't look as bad in the photos)
t'was fun, but got a little dirty and i really must block all the holes in the bulkhead, water has a habit of coming through the holes where the fresh air vents once were
in the next two months lots happened....
I fitted a swanky toad alarm
I got a new zorst, which i thought would be quieter, as it came with a centre silencer...
...it wasn't, it was for a big bore, so was very much louder, and i lost back pressure and lost 500rpm at the top of the rev range But it looked dead sexy!!!
Then the engine started bogging and making funny noises, after trying lots, i decided the solution would be to time the cam properly, 4deg should do it? right?
... it did, stoped bogging, but as a consiquence the exhaust valve on 4 was smacking the pistion, only i didn't realise till it went bang on the way to malvern show resulting in engine out again,
this is the remains of the piston which was found in the gearbox
Theres a lesson here ladies and gentlemen, when you hear a noise coming from your bodged engine, don't assume its the tappets
So, that my story so far. I like reading other peoples project threads on here, so i hope you've like seeing mine New things to do over christmas:
-Fit new 998 block with GT close ratio box, 12g940 head again, re-use 4.1 FD, re-use 286 cam - but check the timing properly.
-Fit all the suspension parts i've aquired (dampers, hi-los, new everything - the works!)
-Sort the interior properly
-Wide grp2 arches
-AND RALLY *woman of ill repute* THE BEAST!!!!
Yay!!! I got my beasty back on the road!!!! Ok... but first i must say, people of an mechanically opinionated nature should look no futher at this project. I'm a student - so im on a budget i'm also impacient - so i dont like waiting for other people to do things if it looks too simple and frankly although idealy i'd have liked my last motor to last a bit longer (2 months lol) - i'm not too fussed, this engine has only gotta last a yr or so till i've built my 1071 dream motor Plus the fact you can pick up 998's for free, so sod it..... here goes...
How to build a fast 998 engine in you're garage with help from a big hammer and a dremel
Firstly i got a GT box off a mate £35 - BARGAIN
I split and rebuilt it with hardened baulk rings (and gave it a bloody good clean!!) The reason for the GT box was for the close ratios, and because it was off a mate, i couldnt resist Also re-fitted the 4.1 final drive
Next i stripped down my spare block, this time including taking out the pistons+rods, and the crank. Then set to work with the good ol' dremel, cutting some beautiful pockects - okay, so i may have slipped a tiny bit - but it's nothing bad (no really trust me - its fine ) Then i re-fitted the crank with new bearings, and then the pistons went back in after scraping a large proportion of the carbon off the top of them with a stanley blade the pistons went in with the original rings, and after measuring with a feeler guage they are perfectly fine - so don't diss (if they wernt broke, dont fix em ) The con-rods went back on the crank with new bearings too
The two where put together and the lightened fly went back on with my new rally clutch As did the 286cam, but this time with 2deg offset key, as i think it was because i used a 4 last time and thats why the exhaust valve got friendly with the piston I did time it properly - to 106deg, but i think its probly something to do with the fact that its a 998 that its not the same timing as a 1275. by the way - too all the people that say dont bother with the tensioner on a duplex - i measured the degree of slack in mine - and its possible to be out by 5deg!!! so i'm sticking with it on!!
Then the head was taken apart and new valves where used for chamber 4, the rest where all just re-seated, for peace of mind.
Poped it all back in and all was go go
The new motor feels great!! I cut the pockets a bit deeper this time, and i also took more time making sure there is no way on earth they are near the valves. The gearbox feels great and really tight and direct with the new baulk rings, and the closer ratio works soo much better with the cam and the final drive. The cam itself isn't too bad to be fair, with the slightly different timing. Its better than it was at 0deg offset, but still fairly punchy like it was at 4deg, so im happy The best bit though is the rally clutch. A normal vetro clutch has springs to dampen the force - this plate doesnt!! Its nearly impossible to slip, and it disengages rite (and i mean it) at the top of the pedal. I've had to move the clutch stop futher up because i kept pushing the pedal down to where i used to, and then side stepping it, not ideal way to treat the new plate. So bringin the stop up higher means im not letting the plate slam together as ferociously....
.... all is good in my world now! , next job is to fit all the suspension and geometry kit thats sitting in my room and get to a RR to find out how much power this little beaut' is putting out
Well, a little update, been back home this weekend to sort out a few little bits and out some miles on the motor. The was an oil leak coming out the speedo drive seal - problem one of the bolts wasn't long enough, sorted that.
Been having trouble with my rad hoses too - the keep weeping at the joints. To be fair they're the same one's the car left the factory with so tomorrow i order a set of shiny black samco items
The also seems to be a fair bit of oil coming out of the crank pully seal, and hole in the bottom of the transfer case (indicating the primary seal is leaking. My theory is i've accidently over-filled the oil and so the pressure is too high, as every time i check the oil, its above MAX - but that could just be that the oil hasnt settled yet. So I'm waiting till 2mos to check again.
Apart from those few things i've loved it this weekend - the cars been a beauty, i love it to bits, dunno how may miles i've done but i've used about 1 1/2 tanks of petrol. So i picked up stuff to change the oil next weekend, the mineral was only used to flush the engine through and help the motor bed in. Next weekend the GTX goes in with a new filter, i'll tighten up the head and re-set the tappets then cross my fingers and head to coventry (uni)
If all goes to plan, i should be getting it RR'd in the middle of next week, then off to bingly for the weekend - YAY!!! :D
Yea i'll knock up some brackets fairly easily from a bit of thick sheet metal, an angle grinder, a blow torch and a mighty big hammer.
Hopefully gonna get it stickered up soon too.
Spent this weekend faffing, trying to stop oil leaks all over the place, i think i've got it down to just the one, from the gear selector, but ill let it off - cant deny it the right to mark its terretory, that would be like chopping its takle off.
Engines still making lots of funny noises, and i've got the tappets set slack at 16thou at the moment, as i want to be careful not to smack up the piston again. I'm waiting till the RR session on wednesday to sort most of this stuff out as its hard to tell where rattles are coming from when you're on the move.
Well, yesterday my mate craig (starmag1275gt) and i embarked on a journey to get our cars sorted at 'Collins motoring services' (www.mini-specialist.co.uk)
The journey was tough. Up early at 8.00 (trust me, for a student - thats early!) We left coventry at 8.30 leaving us 1 1/2 hrs for the 25 mile journey - lol - It was a good job we did as enevitably craig broke down just off the coventry ring road, and on a damn hill!! So i went and parked mine, then we had to push craigs up the damn hill to a little carpark - in the cold and snow. After getting it in the carpark on the first turn of the key, his car started We where not amused!!
So after taking the long way to Erdington (we where avoiding motorways as craig can only reach 55mph at this point ) we got there at 10.10ish
Craig got on the rollers first and the basice conclusion was that his engine is rubbish, but Colin did his best and managed to get 68 horses out of the 1380.
Now, for my beautiful 998
First run, without any fettling showed 60.1hp - a great start, and a testiment to my engineering skills i think
After a bit of fettling Colin got 63.2hp which was ace! I'm proud of that. In comparison boggo 998's do 42hp on these rollers and 1275's do 60ish!!
Colin also suggested a few things i could do to realise more potential, a re-curved dizzy, poss electric points, a weber 40, and a better engine breathing system.
yea, the 1380's pretty shot. It was out of a car craig bought off ebay. It was a 'minisport 100bhp engine' apparently from the late 80's. Its got a 286 cam and a ported and polished head and vernier timing gear and a lightened fly with a downdraught weber. Its lost compression somewhere, but its not smoking. We measured 115 - 150 - 125 - 125.
Definatly not a fair comparison between a 998 and a 1380, but still proof that its worth tuning a 998!!
Yea Collin was great, definatly recomend him. He let us get involved a bit too and always let us know the situation and what he was doing and why he does stuff - brilliant!
I'm no expert and the dremel work - lol - if you get a spare block just have a practice and take you're time, and measure twice before you cut
On a side note, been adding up the cost of the motor this moring, at first it was quite scary, but when i thought about it, it wasn't too bad at all!!
Note - not all parts are new, parts with * are fleabay bargains
*Carbs bought recon'd w/maniflod all assembled = £170
Ram stacks = £32
Maniflow Exhaust = £85
Budget LCB = £35
*12g940 = £20
1 new exhaust + 1 new inlet valve = £14
Head = £34
998 block = free
*Kent cam kit 286 w/followers + double springs = £100
Mains and big end bearings = £40
*Duplex timing gear = £15
Block = £155
GT Gearbox = £35 (thankyou craig)
Hardened baulk rings = £15
Final drive = £40 (thankyou iklemini)
Central oil pickup = £25
Gearbox total = £115
Lightened fly = £20
Rally Clutch plate = £35
Clutch = £55
Head gasket set = £12
Conversion set = £16
Gearbox set = £8
Gaskets = £36
TOTAL = £717
Sounds a lot for a 'budget motor' But, consider all the stuff that will be kept when if decide to go for a big bore 1071
- £322 induction/exhaust (tho practically speaking, the carbs may need to be upgraded for an engine better than standard)
- £34 head (tho would need proper machining)
- £100 cam
- £15 duplex
- £115 gearbox
- £35 - if its still useable at the time (fly would be changed to verto)
TOTAL = £96 - If you look at it like i do
Cheaper than a 1275 - and soo much more fun, maybe a few reliability issues, but we'll have to wait and see
lol -i didn't take measurements - pish Hears how you do it..
take the valve springs off the head
put some bluetack or similar on the top of the bores (where the exhaust valves would hit it)
then put the head on with the exhaust valves in it
and push the exhaust valves down into the bluetack
whip the head off and there are you're templates
now mark the outline of the imprints onto the block face, then add a little extra, just to give a good clearance.
when you cut the pockets go for a medium to high speed
first use the grey stone to get the rough size and shape
then use a fresh grey one to get to the rounded corner (u'll know what i mean when you do it)
then use a pink stone to finish off and get a crisp bottom corner
you will need to go about 5mm deep with the pockets
easy peasy, takes a couple of hours. You should probly measure the CC of the pockets after you're done with a bit of plasticine to make sure they are all the same size - i didn't have any, so i didn't, they looked about right tho - lol
Collins RR is great, all new stuff i think, certainly knows what he's doin, recomend him to anyone.
And finally no, it was not straped down, in fact it was perched on two bricks so that it was off the floor so the exhaust could be fitted - its very very loud without it!!
danny boy i hope you didnt think i was joking .....lol....... heehee
keep you eyes peeled for the skip at bingley people, with either a black or blue mini in Tow.....lol hopefully not...
still couldnt find a flashy light though...
Well, we made it to bingly and back with no trouble at all - in fact only time we stopped was because the tape on the seat was falling off - lol
The people living up that road loved it when we stopped outside - only in a mini!!!!!
At bingly we picked up my beautiful bucket seats - thankyou smudger Tho, that was a mean trick he played - he got me to sit in a seat, and i got comfortable, then he said: "thats the pro seat, this ones yours" No matter though, the 'non-pro' seats i got are awsome, and i swear i've made heavier poop's than them seats!!!
At the moment i've got a couple of assesments at uni, but after they're done i got lots to be getting on with. At home waiting to fit is:
Full set of lowered spax
4 new cones
rear poly bushes
New rear subby bolt kit
Braided rear hoses
Rear camber brackets
Front adjustable bottom arms
Leather straps for front end and boot
Rollcage and door bars
Door squares and a few other stickers
My heater - its sooooooo cold :'(
When the rear subby is off its going to be fully recon'd and possibly powder coated white - in rally stylie! As will the front subby.
the engine bay and under the car in the rear subby area will too be painted white The engine may get a coat of BMC green if it behaves!
In true rally style i plan to mount the passenger bucket on the floor, as far back as poss, without clouting the rollcage. I also want to bring the gear linkage up into the car so that the lever is closer to the wheel, and also tempted by a long hydraulic handbrake right up close to the wheel?? - i can see that gettin me in lots of trouble tho
Speaking of wheels, i've gotta order my steering wheel too, i nice small simple sparco jobbie.
Oh - and as you may have seen, i sold my bike can exhaust and i got this beauty - i acctually fitted this before the RR, but forgot to mention it, my bad. Also got the ram pipes from minispares, which dispite being a pain to fit, are amazing!!!!!!
NOTE TO ALL, GET RAMPIPES - THEY SOUND AWSOME!!!! - kinda like a turbo spooling up - its unreal!!!
yea my motor is in detroitwich fraid. This annoys me, clearly my mini is not 'individual' enough - gonna have to get some stickers on it pretty sharpish then
Yea and the brakets are from superfastminis and the front end is from smudger.
On another note, i got pics of my seats and rollcage that are going in soon
Also started buying cibies of the 'bay. The way i see it, i'm having 6 oscars on the front. Now if i had them new, thats a £360 crash barrier hanging off the front of my car So instead i'm buying them in bunches, usually with a few imperfections, so that they go cheap. So far i've bought a bunch of 4 for £77, one of them is missing a chrome ring, so they where cheap, but apart from that they are flawless. Another bunch like it and ill have a full set with a few spares for peanuts
Ordered some other bits too, like a steering wheel, some other little bits and an omex rev limmiter with that all important launch control
Oh - and how could i forget, i have the most trick 3-point harness' you'll ever see in you're life, but more on this later But lets just say, they're something very very special
I'm considering getting a whole new braking system too, but still gotta price it up to see if its gonna be feesable, thing is if i do that, it means i might as well get a hydraulic handbrake whilst im at it, then it gets expensive tho
Yea, so, keep an eye on here over the next month or two - there will be lots going on
nar, did a lazy photoshop tho, with a pic of a car from bingly - this was just to give an idea of scale, nothing special....
Also, whilst i can't work on my actual mini, i've started work on my CAD project for one of my uni modules, which is a 3D model of my mini in alias. I was thinking about showing progress of it alongside my real project... not go much to show for it ATM tho, just made a 10x6 GB alloy and a bit of the side of the car....i'll post something when it looks recognizable
How coooooool would that be if i could do an endo lol
I think you underestimate the strength of the kevlar front - they're damn strong - it the carbon bonnet bit thats a bit more fragile.
ere you go, to give you an idea of of how they will be made.....
Braket A will be made from a wide strip of steel, then i will cut a pair of slits into it and bend it with a hammer and blowtorch It will look very similar two a 2 up 2 down bracket - except with two bottom legs. Then the bit of angle it just there to space out the two bottom ones apart, the angle will stop any flexing. Does that make sence?? The idea is to make it without welding, simply because i can't.
The braket will attatch to the ridge behind the bumper lip, and on what would normally be the slam panel on standard bonnets, easy peasy
The ram pipes where from minispares £16 a pop. They do replace the normal pancake/K&n Stylee filter. They should be used with sock filters - but i havn't got round to getting them yet, or you can use them with something like an itg filter.
I hope i dont run out of light either!! tho i'd hate to see how much bhp i could loose if i put 100w bulbs in and had 'em all on at the same time I'm acctually wiring them up all in pairs, so the fogs, longrange, and wide. The thing is, i'm not a chavy idiot who drives aroud with fogs on - they are there for when its foggy - surprisingly. And you don't use spotlights in the fog - because it makes vision worse. The longrange lamps are ace and allow you see futher ahead then you will ever need to - but they do only project a very narrow beam of light - hence the wide beam lamps - for all round use
However, if someone cuts me up - i will be flashing all 6 at once, as well as my main headlight beam - its gonna be fun
The rampipe - 2.5" long, no need to modify the bulkhead, and yea, on a well tuned engine you stand to gain a more performance in the way of responsiveness.
The sound is just like a really intense sucking, like what you hear from a turbo spooling up, except its more faint. If im in 4th at 3400rpm and plant it you can hear it inside the car before the cam powers up and the engine noise takes over. Or if you're charging up through the gears you hear a quick woosh at the bottom of each gear - if that makes sence.
I'll see what i can do about getting a sound clip, but as i've said before the car is off the road at the moment, so you'll have to be patient.
Yea, ram pipes work on anything, just make sure you get one thats worth getting. You want a good radius, as in a nice rounded edge on the end. I think vizard said, the bigger the radius the better, but i wouldn't quote me on that. Then you want to pick betweem long or short. Some people have to choose short due to packaging issues - say, on a weber - or - if you want to put fit a stub stack inside a cone filter. Minispares suggest their short rampipe for revy engines that will go over 7000rpm, otherwise longest is always best.
Altho mines a revvy engine, i still chose the long ones, as my engine will barely top 8000rpm, but after the RR i've discovered thers not much point going above 7000rpm
The mini was taken off the road because i'm at uni, yea. Managed to get it home straight after bingly and send the stuff off to get my tax back for feb. The cars also off the road because its going to take a couple of months to fit all by bits n pieces, recon my rear subby and do my interior. It'll take a while because i'll only have weekends to go home and work on the car, but if things go well, its should be back for easter hols
mate, its gonna be ace. Gonna be doin rally starts at the lights all the time now
(except with out the banging from the turbo and ALS )
Ashleys got launch control on his clubby - he's only ever used it once apparently because it scared the out of him, lol
To be fair if i was catapulted from a standing start with 100 odd hp - i'd be scared too
Launch control works like a momentary rev limmiter. You first set you're rev limmit, so say on mine, it'll be at 7000rpm. This stops the engine over revving and destroying itself by quickly cutting the occasional spark from the coil. This is useful if you keep you're foot planted for too long in a gear, or ..... lets say ....... for example ...... you're beaning down back roads and go for 3rd gear, from 4th, but you accidentally get 1st in you're JK dog box (pie should know what im talking about)
Now, launch control is like having another rev limmit. Say i set my launch control to 4000rpm - i push a button on the steering wheel and plant my foot at traffic lights and the revs wont go above 4000rpm. The idea is to find the perfect RPM level for the launch control, which is in between the car bogging down off the lights and car wheelspinning. Once you find the perfect RPM, you set that as ur level for launch control, and now you can always get good starts.
Obviously the only flaw with this is the launch RPM is going to be different if the roads are wet/damp/dry/frosty etc etc.
BUT - the main reason for launch control is simply the noise, it makes the car go 'waaaaaaaa-ba-ba-ba-ba-ba-ba-ba-ba'
bout the lanch control, oh well, i only innitially wanted a rev limmiter, but for an extra few quid it would be rude not to get lanch control too
Loverly story pie, can wait to get back into worcester sooooooooon. I remember trying to keep up with him down the lanes on the way back to malvern once - no chance!! Ur gonna ave to get urs out because we'll be down a mini or two whilst rodgers gots the escort and navyseal's is bosted.
Made a bit of progress last weekend, but not much worth writing about. This weekend i've started the rear subby. Today i got it off and the radius arms off, it's pretty much bare now - EXCEPT 4 bloody bolts that i sheared!! They where the ones holding that bracket on the end of the radius arms, one on one side, three on the other Also the big pin thing on the one side won't come out because its rusted in place. So tomorrow is going to involve several drill bits and a damn big hammer!! Fun awaits! :'(
Pics to follow after the weekend.....
as nice as it is, i'd never buy that thing - he gives it death!! only thing i'd buy it for is to take the nice bits of it hehe
Well i thought i'd report back on the progress.
The subframe is shot, so i'm gonna be gettin a new gen one during the week - this is not good!! i did not budget for this, i've already spent all my money on toys - My bad
I've cleaned up the radius arms and all the drum related gubbins, and they've all be painted white. At the moment its all a really clean pearl white, but i'm hoping that after a few weeks it'll all stain and become a nice dirty old english white kind of shade - rally styleeeeeee
Also started cleaning up the under the car, and poked a couple of small rusty holes in the heal board, this is also something i didn't budget for. The only cosilation is that its only one small hole on one side (about the size of a pen hole) and two on the other side (about the size of a penny). But now i gotta find a portable welder that can come to my hooose next week to fix it.
Tryin to think of quiet jobs to do now, because i got a stonking headache (strictly a MAN headache tho) Its my own fault i shouldn't ave told the lads i was back in town this weekend and i definatly shouldn't ave let them drag me out last nite
And it doesn't help using the wire wheel in the boot - it makes a horrible noise at the best of times, but sticking ur head in the boot with it - my god it hurts!!!
I got lots of pics, but cant upload them on this silly computer, so u'll have to wait till monday when im back at uni
OH - seeing as i'm paintin the underneith, engine bay and subframes all white - in rally styleeeee - i'm thinking of painting inside the boot white too - what do you peeps rekon? im a bit scared of making the car look like a zebra tho?
So, hears all the piccys.....
All my new toys
OoOoOoOoO - and let me tell you bout my new harnesses....
They are from germany made by a company called schroth, whats special about them is the box of tricks on the back. Its a reel - like a conventional seatbelt, so you have freedom of movement when you need it. But thats not the good bit! The best bit is the reel can be locked I dunno how the mechanism works, but, the lock is released when you supply power to it. So this can be done by a switch for instance, or they have supplied a 'little box thing' that senses hard acceleration or braking, or serious inclines/declines or whatever (basically when the car aint reasonably flat on the ground) You secure the 'little box thing to the car and its kinda like an electronic spirit level switch.
Now i've told you this you have to keep it quiet - can't have everyone stealin' my ideas can we
Next, what i did this weekend...
Jacked car up, subframe off, subframe shagged, radius arms rebuilt with new pads and wheel bearings, painted boot, found rust......its all /\up there/\ i'm not explaining it again
and the rest...
The seats are from SMB, look up 'smudger' on the forum.
This weekends progress, er.... not done much really that looks too productive, but its all necessary before i can start fitting the toys...
mmm kay.... this is how it been handed in, because i have run out of time to finish it But when its finished it will be a full copy of my own car, well, what i want it to look like anyway. So i still got to do the raised notch bit down the middle of the bonnet, wipers, door handles, boot handle, mudflaps, splashguards, stickers, interior bits, brakes, exhaust etc etc. But aas far as the assessment piece goes, its plenty good enough....
Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeellll, back home for easter hol's now, so in between work (as in a job - if u can call it that), sleeping and eating, i have a fair bit of time to work on the Mini
Made some real progress today so i thought i'd show....
Built up the rear subby - after much shouting and hitting the camber brackets with a big hammer.
Er thats bout it. Did find some more rust as well, but the plan is to get the whole thing built up over easter, then drop it off at a local mini center for a week when im back at uni, then pick it up the next weekend - then i'll have it all ready for summer - if the engine lasts *touch wood*
Thought i'd update you peeps on the progress, things could be better at the moment, i've had a few issues...
- Whilst one of my top arms is immaculate (bearing-wise), the other was shot. The pin was seized to a bearing, and the bearing to the arm. I smashed the rollers out after advice from the local mini center and then spent another hour or so, trying to crack the outer race to get it out. Its not going well, and i now need a new chisel because i've rounded the corners on mine
Any more ideas on getting it out? i've tried heating, freezing, drifts, chizel and even tried cutting it out with a multi tool????
- Also had issues trying to get the metal collets from the bottom arm bushes off one of the the pins, again its not happenin...
- I'm a bit annoyed also that my 'lowered' spax dampers, i dont think, are lowered? because when i lowered the car to my desired height (only on the back so far) then jacked the car up, the hi-lo's fall out This scares me because what if they fall out over a bridge, or going over a pot hole????????
- Finally i'm still waiting on a few deliveries.... some bits off Smudger, bits to fix said top arm problem from minispares, all the wires to re-wire the whole car from autosparks, my mudflaps and plastic sheeting from plastics for performance and my fiberglass kit of a shop on ebay. Because of the holiday now nothing will arrive till next week, so more delays
- If it wasnt for the damn top arm and bottom arm pin , i could have had the car back on its wheels buy this weekend, then i might have had a chance at getting the car back on the road by the end of easter hols, buts thats just not going to happen now.
yea.... so.... things aint so rosey at the moment. All thats getting me through it the thought that once this is done, thats finally it, no more messing about. After this is done its all about the engine The initial plans where laid thick into my head long ago, its gotta be based on a 1071, bored out to 73.5, still undecided on the head, but its gotta be either 7 or 8 port. The whole thing is going to be well worked, and i may consider billet rods and crank, but that depends entirely on whether i can be patient enough to save some money for em. The aim is lots of revs and a short final drive. And two of my mates have just got a Clio 182 and a Civic type R, so i gotta be able to keep up with them, childish i know, but its gotta be done
998's are all good, but i didn't do it for the same reasons as pie's 998. I did it as a quick, cheap way to get a nice revvy motor and have a little experiment with, it was never the intention to keep it. I've always been a fan of revvy motors rather than torquey ones plus i've always been the kind of person who likes to do things a bit differently - as you may be able to tell by know - hense why i'm not a fan of the ever popular 1380 - everyone's got one, and i don't want to be everyone
U'll find most cooper S blocks have been bored or lined at some point in their life by now, and if they havent, expect to pay silly money. I watched one go on ebay for £600 i think!! Its the same with the cranks, a crank thats on a 20thou regrind will go for £100 if that, but an unground crank will go for nearer £350!!
Its all these damn autograss boys, stealing all the good stuff so they can thrash it around a field for a few laps - personally i dont get the apeal, but, each to their own.....
Plus the bigger the bores, the bigger the bore to stroke ratio, so frees up more revs
:D Well, thanks to the chap who suggested using the prybar on the top arm bearing (soz i forgot ur name, and i canne find the post - but i owe you a drink ) Got the bearings out!! new ones also arrived today so put them and painted the arm up. Whilst that ones been drying i've been assembling the other side, i got copper and LM grease everywhere, but got it all together eventually had the bottom arms wound out really far so at the moment i've got some hardcore camber going on ive acctually got the back brakets wound up too, the the effect doesnt look as spectacular Should all be back on its wheels tomorrow also got fiberglass and wires arriveing 2morro, so once its on its wheels i can start fiberglassing the dash......mmmmmm messy
ch-ch-ch - check it out!! Back on its wheels
thats all i really done today, apart from get the rear 'cage in properly too. Spent the rest of the day tidying the garage, as it was a heap. Adjusted the camber a bit so its a bit less now, but now i've got serious toe-out, tried fixing it with the tie bars, but they did sod all, so gonna have to play with the track rod ends. I should probly go read up on all this adjustment malarky, all i have to go on so far is granturismo
played with the rear ride height too, wound em as low as they'd go... the result .... arches sitting on the wheels somehow, i dont think this will be any good for rallying Its raised back up now, but what i really want is for the front to drop a bit more, hopefully when the cones settle it will, then the wheels will tuck nicely in the arches
Chars for the larvley comments, makes me feel warm and fuzzy - or that just could be because its been bloody hot today
Craigs mini should be back, im sure he'll tell you bout it, but he had some head work done and changed the gearbox, so it should all be sorted now. Its suppose to be coming back to cov, so fingers crossed.
I love ollies minis they always look so mint! the red one he had at school was perfections as well. He must have all the skill and time to do em all himself because i dunno how he could afford to do it otherwise!!
Soz yea, i was up late today (pendulum@breeez last nite - woop woop! ), came online quickly to ave a gander, then back in the garage. Started carving the expanding foam today for the dash, and painted the rest of what i could of the front subby. The engine needs to come out to finish it still. Also started my new wiring loom, which is surprisingly therapeutic, i think its because i've got reels of new wire, which is all the correct colours and stuff, and its a job which doesnt involve clambering around in the car (much) Also got some of the proper badass crimpers, which are amazing, so the connections dont just fall off
There have been many questions on the front, so, i dont want to sound rude but i found some of the threads where i've already answered questions about it, if theres anything else left to ask then just send me a PM All the links are in my siggy...
Well, not so much an update as a rant Heres my story.......
I had it all planned out - i found a 970 crank, and 73.5mm cosworth pistons. Then i did some research and found u can fit a cooper s crank in a non-'S' block by just skimming 16thou off the thrust washers. Toped off with a nice big valve head and some split weber 45's i saw on the 'bay, and some whining straight cut drops, with my close ratio 'box. Power would have come frome the lairest cam i could get my greasy mits on. This ebay special of an engine was gonna be another budget screamer, but the best bit was that it would have been 1050cc!! same cc as Pies, tho completly different internaly. It would have been a screamer, but it depended on one thing.... con rods. I looked about before hand and found minispeed where selling them at £100 for a SET!! i was baffled and called them up immediately to check that it was correct. The friendly chap on the phone confirmed that was the price for a set of 4. That was it i'd made my mind up, this engine is MINE!!
I e-mailed the guy with the crank to say i wanted it and waited....... and waited....... and waited......
Meanwhile my i told my mate and he couldnt believe the price of the rods, so, i looked em up again on the minispeed site and was shocked with what i saw............ THEY'D CHANGED THE PRICES!! the rods have now changed to £91 EACH - 'each' now being in big letters
So now my life is over well... not quite lol, but im absolutely gutted, I'm not paying £400 for a set of conrods. So unless i find a set of 970 rods very soon, its back to looking for that all important 1071 - gutted!!
Soz, i just had to let it out.....
On a different subject, any locals going to the redditch moc party at detroitwich rugby ground on june 30th? its only, like £4, for camping, could be a rite laff - and its only a mile or so down my road, so i'm sure the mini could get ther without breaking down (having said that, it never made it to malvern before ) Or if the mini aint done i mite even walk it haha
Been a good weekends progress me thinks. First off i got me an aldon red dizzy which should help the motor run much much better. The advance curve on the standard one couldn't keep with the engine, but this aldon jobbie is perfect of high reving engines, so should unleash a few more horses
Then i unwraped my next prezzy, 2 metres of red rubber from plastics4performance to make my mudflaps... a few minutes later... i'd cut up me flaps They aint bolted up or anythin yet, i need to wait till the cars finished and the suspension has settled and i've worked out a nice ride hight - i want the flaps to be just scraping the floor when she's done
oooooo yea!.... flaps on the healboard
Then got back to work on the dash... did this a few weeks back, forgot to show you... carved it out and layed up some fibre glass
Then pulled the fibre glass off the expanding foam and took all the foam out... just to see if it still fits
Its a good job i did fit the 'cage when i did, because then i realised the pods wern't gonna fit behind the front bars... so... i brought the whole pod forward to see what its like... here i've just got it taped into a position to see what its like, i think its pretty good, so thats what i've decided im doing now
Just testing the driving position... bit frustrating, my comfortable driving position is quite high, relatively speaking. I tried it lower down, but my feet didnt feel comfortable on the pedals and i found moving my feet from the accelerator to the brake was a pain, and heal 'n' toe'in' would be hard. So the seats quite high, and the 'wheels gonna have to be brought forward because at the mo its on my knees and my arms are a bit stretched. Might also get a snap off boss kit, because at the moment i can barely get out, i ave to squeeze my legs between the 'wheel and seat whilst trying to negotiate the door bars its all part of the fun!
Well, this morning i agreed to buy this... a 1071 's' motor... its not just any 's' motor either, apart from being a 1071, its even more speshul because its was an oselli engine, before being rebuilt by dutchspeed 3 years ago. Since its rebuild it was run in, then left for 3 years - and now its mine
These are the pics off the ebay ad, will be goin to pick it up on the 15th. Unfortunatly, i cant afford to put it in the car till the end of august, because thats when i renew my insurance, and after spending what i have done on this engine, i don't have enough to put it on the road. It needs a set of s/c drops and a cross pin diff so it can be usd with the cooper c/r box i rebuilt and it needs a few other ancillaries...
Also comes with the fly and clutch all balanced for the engine
This was the description.......
stage 3 head with 14.4 cc per chamber
metro turbo head bolts
1.5 rockers with steel rocker shaft
maniflow matched port to carb inlet manifold
weber 45 carb with k/n filter
osseli rocker cover
286 scatter cam (kent)
vernier duplex timeing chain
remote oil filter
12.6 - 1 comp raito
en40b all steel crank
steel flywheel with steel clutch pressure plate with grey diafram
the crank and flywheel was sent off to osselli to be lightened and balanced to produce maximim power
all in all this is a very rare oppertunity to bye an extremely rare engine, it was rebuilt around 3 yrs ago then run in then removed frrom car and put into storage, it produces around 105 B.H.P and revs its nuts off to 9000 rpm
I'm not gonna say what i paid for it, but to me, its now priceless, cant wait till august now
^ cheers mate ^ x
Anyways...... today (well yesterday acctually - writing this at 1am ) was my birthday I'm no longer a teenager, apparently i've got to grow up now....
NAAAAAAAAA! instead Craig (starmag1275gt) and I took a roadtrip to the isle of widget to pick up my loverly loverly engine WoOoOoP!!
So, we left at 8.00am this morning and 430miles later, at 9.00pm we returned with this little beauty
Well... aint had much time to strip it or anything yet but.. heres what i can tell you so far..
Obviously the engine was originally tuned by osseli back in the day. And is still retains its OE62 mark on the head, which is a 12g940 casting, rather than the cooper 's' AEG163. The fact that its a 12g940 really doesnt bother me because 'A' the aeg163 was apparently prone to cracking, 'B' the 12g9840 is more tuneable, and 'C' Some of the cooper 's' came with 12g940's apparently anyway. Since then the head has had futher work done by John Dutch of Dutchspeed racing. We took the head off to inspect and i dont think the valves are any bigger than the original OE62 spec and to be honest i think the valves are proble as big as you could go on a road engine, but we think Mr Dutch did a lot of work to the ports because they are huge!! Anyways, his stamp is on the head too along with what must be the chamber size which does infact say 14.4cc! After having the head off we think thats highly likely, because of how shallow they are!
Here are some pics, first is a copy of an old osseli tunig brochure and the one in the middle with OE62 written under, is what mine is like... also checkout what john dutch has stamped on the head u gotta love that!
As i said, we got the head off quickly and the bores look great, the hone marks are still visible and the block has been liner'd back to standard bore. The pistons are hepolite 21253's. I've been speaking to a chap called rich who knows these engines better than most, and apparently these are the ones to go for, so thats good Managed to find out that the dish on these pistons is 8.4cc, so a little calculation...
14.4cc chamber + 8.4cc dish + 3.8cc guestimate for gasket + 0.7cc guestimate for ringland = 27.3cc
I work out the bore volume at 269.0cc
So (27.3+269.0)/27.3 = 10.85 - 1 CR I can live with that Obviously thats based on assumptions if i got time 2mos i'll work it out properly.
Included in the deal was the transfer case and bell housing. Along with a heavily lightend flywheel ans assembly...
Also i got the weber which has been matched to the inlet ports and the manifold has also been worked and smoothed inside
Checked the cam too, as he said its a 286SP which is good. And its came with the 'dizzy and a old style 'leccy igniton.
Theres a whole load of breather and oil take-off's all over the engine, which need figuring out. Also the oil way from the where it comes from the gearbox into the block has been blocked for a remote filter which is supposed to come out the side of the gearbox where the pickup pipe is and goes back in the block near where the water-tap would be.
I'll ave a bit more info 2mos after i've had a proper look at it. But so far its better than i ever dreamed, and i'm well happy with it all. Being my birthday an' all also meant my 'rents have put a bit of money towards it too, which means i still have money to live off till i get back to work over the summer hols
This thing is gonna fly when its in... i cannot wait
Nite all, Dan
Well, yesterday afternoon and this morning where spent stripping the engine completely, to check every last bit. It all looks in great condition. The ports are mahoosive, the valves are 36 inlets and 31 exhaust. The springs i believe to be iskey? I couldn't find any identification on them, but they are orange like the iskey ones, and they have the special valve caps too. The vernier duplex looks brand new. The cam is in good condition, however the followers look a little worn. Cam bearings on the other hand look new, as are the mains and big-end bearings - which are vanderville. The rods have also been built up with ARP bolts which is good. The only bit which im a little disappointed with is the crank, i didn't have a vernier gauge to measure it, but the numbers on the bearings indicate the mains are on 60thou and the big ends are on 40thou - which is a lot! Certainly wont be another re-grind in that, but luckily the crank is immaculate, and i imagine is was freshly re-ground when it was rebuilt, so it still has a fair bit of life in it. From what i've seen tho, it certainly looks like it was built with a lot of care and attention, so hopefully it should be a peach when it goes in mine
Whilst everything was apart i gave it all a good clean, the main block has been put back together, and the head is still in parts. Its all been drowned in oil and covered in cloths and now it'll just sit on the bench till the end of August, when it get built up to go in
That'll be it for a few weeks now, got lots of work to do for assessments so thats all you're getting till june, then hopefully it should come together pretty quickly if all goes to plan, tra tra
Ok... so, its been a while, but i've finished uni now and i've been back for a week, so heres what i've been up to
I started again with the dash, realising that it was going to take a while to adapt the first attempt to suit my new idea of bringing the dash forward. Didnt have too much luck with the foam last time so this time i used wood to make the mould. It worked much better and the dash has come along quickly with good results Also i decided to kinda mould the centre clocks in... its kinda hard to describe, so you'll just ave to wait and see .......
...hummmm run out of attachment space....
u sound like my mother, always worried about the practicalitys Well no they dont.... just, lol, tho i re-positioned the handles so that they are horizontal, if you get what i mean? rather than being vertical.
Riiiiite, this last week i've also, fitted the headlining - that was a PITA job i never want to do again! its not perfect i'll be honest, but i did fit it with 3/4 of the rollcage still in, and since i took the photos it has tensioned up a bit more and some of the wobbles have come out.
Also finished the rear of the car.. so the rear wiring loom was done, rear passenger arch went back on, the fuel tanks back in, boot back on and the hole was drilled for the reverse light. Only problem is i do not know what size the nut is that is on the reverse lamp, the reason i got it cheap was because the nut was missing... i'm starting to find out why Anybody know what size the nut is?
The front is also back on, with new straps, lower securing pins and the contact lenses I've also decided that the hydraulic rams are going to be comming off in place of a normal bonnet stay, the reason being; the struts are bending the front when they where compressed, also those struts just make it a PITA to line up the front with the pins when your lowering it.
Every single wire is being replaced in the car, and all the looms are pretty much complete, all thats left to do is wire teh alarm into the dashboard harness. I've re-done this loom so that it is now idiot proof, and dead simple should anything go wrong. Theres a loom for the back, a loom for the dashboard, a loom for the engine and a loom for all the lights on the flappy front. The two front looms have connectors at the bulkhead, so things can be taken apart quickly, and every system in the car has its own separate fuse, i.e. a fuse for the indicators, a fuse for fuel pump, a fuse for sidelights... etc etc
Ermmmm.. thats all for now... hopefully the car should be back on the road near the end of this week... some bits will be left unfinished, because the main priority is to get the car back on the road so that i can get back to work, earn money, and finish all the little bits that need doing still.
yea it was a year ago.... nearly... it was only the outside really tho. He did do a quick job on the inside, boot and bulkhead tho just to neaten it up at the time, but i like my white 'bay now and boot now, you really can notice how much easier it is to see stuff in a white engine bay rather than a dark one.
As for the wiring... hehe... its easy, you just gotta be careful not to overlook anything, otherwise u'll end up ripping it all out again to re-do it - thankfully *touch wood* i havnt had to do that yet.
As for progress, well, the wirings getting there, the driver side switch pannel is complete, and the alarm has been wired in. I'll be up early 2mos hopefully to try and get the passenger side done, only problem is i keep running out of connectors which is annoying. But on the up side i gots loads of switches, 15 to be precise which look reeeeeelly cool... kinda like a fighter jet - 'cept without the cheesy 'doomsday flip cap'
Rite.. bit of progress - the wiring is done. The dashboard is neeearly done, just gotta cut the holes in the aluminimumumum pannels and trim the main bit tomorrow. The steering wheel is finished - and i'm well pleased with it, looks well swish There are still a couple more jobs to do, like find a way of clipping the front headlight loom to the flappy front, and fabricate somewhere behind the dash to mount the many many relays, fit the windows, gear linkage, exhaust... then it should be back on the road
Then i still have things like fitting the mudflaps, fabricating some subframes for the bucket seats, get and fit wide grp 2's, fabricate and fit spotlamp brackets and spotlamps, and of course get the stickers made up - tho i do have the door squares already.
I had a thought t'other day... i'm thinkin of putting the number '0' on the door squares and a few stickers on the car saying 'stage inspector' anybody whos ever gone to a rally will know what i'm on about - hehe, i've already got strobes in the headlights and rear lights, then i can put a big orange beacon light on the roof for mini runs
... a few piccys ... these are from the other day acctually, i'll get more after 2mos ... the pannel is just card just to check spacing etc, the switches are all absolutly necessary they're for - sidelight, headlight, front fog, rear fog, long range spot, wide spot, rev lamp, strobe's , fuel pump, rear heater, wiper1, wiper2. As all the switches have LED's in the tips i figure this may get annoying in the dark if they're beaming in ur face, so i have a last switch which switches all the LED's off Then on the steering wheel we have left and right indicator, flasher, launch control and the horn. I love the wheels because the flylead unplugs off the dash the wheel has a snap off boss type kit
lol, cheers. I'm at coventry uni by the way.
Made a fair bit of progress today - i've trimmed the two dash rails in shhh-waade, well, fake suede, as real suede cost far too much Also finished the dash today by adding the fixing points for the ally pannels and then sprayed it black before it gets trimmed tomorrow. The driver side ally pannel is nearly finished, except the rev counter hole. Its all starting to look really nice and tidy all of a sudden, which is pretty cool.
Soz, no pics yet... to busy to take pics
On the list for tomorrow is trim the dash, finish cutting holes in the ally pannels then connect up all the 'lectrics and watch the sparks fly ... its getting close now, cant wait to drive it again
Please refrain from turning this into another 998 v 1275 thread each to their own, lets leave it at that, and if you want to settle any arguments i suggest we head to a track day
Roite.. progress. The dash is all trimmed up and finished, the drivers pannel is finished, just need to cut the holes out for the fuse holders in the passenger one. Speedo's broken, i still need to go get that spare off pie or olli, whoever i see first. The aluminimum was originally going to be carbon fibre, but lack of funds means i gotta stick with this ally for a while, tho, its kinda growing on me. The only problem with it is it reflects sunlight - a lot! Even after brushing it, its still not great.. i'll ave to see how i get on with it.
Started to connect everything up, so far we gots the flasher, indicators, strobes and fuel pump working. Just a case of connecting everything up at the mo, and testing as i go along. Its all these little jobs that seem to take forever, but i'm slowly getting there.
So 'eres some pics of the work, i'm so happy with how the came out, turned out much better than i expected hope y'all enjoy....
Depends what strobes ur thinking of i got pace car stylee strobes, in the headlights and in the rear lights. I've always fancied em i dont care if you think they look chavish, i like em
Still sorting out little jobs today, the alarm was being a pain, i kept wandering why the things wern't working till i realised the alarm kept automatically re-arming itself. Managed to work round it in the end now all the wiring is pretty much sorted, just need to get some of the more connectors for the altenator and the wiper motor and some side indicator bulb holders.
Started putting the windows back in this afternoon, also still gotta fit the exhaust, gear linkage and carbs back on... then stick some fuel in it an away we go
Heres a pic of the full dash all together and finished...
Well, in the pic the mudflaps aint acctually attached I'm gonna wait for the car to level out, then fix them on bout 1/2inch off the floor. Then just dont reverse quickly
The coiled wire was from RS components. Just search for them on goggle, then search 'coiled cable' on their site. Not sure about the indicators... i'll be a bit stuffed if they do have to self cancel i also dont have a steering lock anymore which i've also heard comments about regarding MOT's. But ive seen plenty of cars like it, so i'm hoping it'll be fine.
WELL... It lives Mwahahahahahahaha
Only one little problem tho... i've managed to fry the coil now It was fun whilst it lasted tho gotta wait till monday now boo hoo hoooooooooooo. Got a few bits to get on with tomorrow, but i've retired early today because im tired and a little fed up now, just been spending all day running round like a loon, fixing stupid little things, i'll get back on it tomorrow maybe and i'll take some finished pics tra tra
Well, first proper drive today, was absolutely incredible! I really really miss my car when its not on the road... but waiting so long just makes it that much better when you get back in it
The only thing that disparately needs sorting is the front camber, its got way too much, on the main roads its okay the tarmac is fairly smooth. But i prefer it to be set up for bashing round country lanes, and at the moment its far too choppy. Lots of neg camber means the car is getting pulled into the tram lines and dips in the road. I often found myself being pulled into the middle of the road.... scary when you're goin round blind corners and theres a car coming the other way!! It also happened when i went down a dual carriage way, i'm constantly wrestling with it. Fair enough, it has incredible cornering ability, but whats the point if you cant go in a straight line
But on a good note... ... i fitted the new dizzy... the aldon red, and my god was it worth it. Its completely transformed the motor!! It pulls from lower down... and it just keeps going, originally i had the rev limmit set at 7000, but after realising that it now has more potential, i up'd it to 8500, and it just pulled rite up to the limmit with no hesitation. Really must get this to a RR asap to see what the real potential is after a proper tune up, its unleashed some serious power, just hoping its going to be dry tomorrow so i can see what it can really do.
Still getting used to these indicators i think i spent most the day driving round with one or both of them on at any time :S At some point i mashed the hazard button too by accident... i dunno when exactly, but i didn't realise till about 5'o'clock when i went to the petrol station
Didn't get any pics taken of this finished beasty.. i'll get round to taking some tomorrow if the weathers better, i want to put my mudflaps and door squares on too if i get time.
Yea cams still a 286 dog.
still playin with the car, cant leave it alone... yesterday i kept burning out condensers and coils so i decided to steal the old electronic ignition i got with the 1071 and stick it in the new dizzy. Works fine now Then i decided i should put the mudflaps on, so done that too. I also lowered the rev limmiter to 8000rpm as a 'bit' of a safer limmit. The noise it makes on the limmiter is awsome by the way, ill have to get a vid, but imagine a car misfiring at 8000rpm.... thats what it sounds like, i probly shouldnt do it to often really
EDIT - went and took some proper pics...
Got the seats, and the cibie's, just need to make up the bracketry for them... i'll probly do that after i get back off holiday in a month or so.
I've been playing on photoshop today .... I was going to change the arches to wide grp2's... but i think the posepacks are growing on me at the mo
Funny you should say that tom, i was thinking about getting the carbon sprayed... this is gonna sound a bit *insert that word that i'm thinking of but you know what i mean here*... but i don't think its really in fashion anymore for anything except jap cars. Also for anyone who doesn't know what it is, you have to explain why its unpainted which just aint cool
I need a decent pic of some wide grp 2's from a similar angle to 'chop on... mite do a pic request later..
EDIT.. found some wide grp2's...
Yea, should be able to have it lookin like that soon enough. Went to dmb graphics today to get a quote, looking at about £60-something for the stickers or £80 fitted. Thats just all the side stuff, need to think bout what i want on the bonnet and boot too.
Since i moved the front pin's on the front, it don't fit as good anymore, so decided i'm gonna have to move the braketry about under the the wings, that involves putting rivets through it, so thats gonna involve a re-spray on the front, which means i'll have the arches and the bonnet and boot sprayed at the same time. Then i can sticker it up after that.
Unfortunatly at this rate the 1071 aint going to be in till i'm back at uni, i dont think i can earn enough over the holiday to do it all. But i think the 1071 will be in a few weeks after going back to uni.... and soon after... i mite get that 7 port... we'll see how it goes.
Anyways, i'm on holiday for 3 weeks as of tomorrow, so tra tra
Nice one pie, yea i will be taking my phone with me, not sure if it'll work or not.. but i'll give it a go. Cant wait to see ur motor wen im back, hopefully i'll try and bring the sun back with me if i can get it through customs, so we can ave some proper meets in some good weather
Wont be going 7 port for a while... but hoping to have it by next summer... so the car will be completely finished - but thats providing nothing goes tits up. We'll ave to see what the 1071's throwing out when its in, but if it makes its claimed 105bhp i rekon i can push it to 120 (at the fly) with the 7 port head. But as you say, gotta get used to 105bhp first...its gonna be fun, considering how frantic the 998 is with a mere 63bhp Its weird, it aint no rocket ship, its just really frantic when you floor it. Best of both worlds i guess, feels like you're going fast when really u aint
Ahh yeash, the 7 port on the 1071... its always been the dream... well acctually the dream was an 8 port, but you dont realise the cost involved with an 8 port!!
Ok so 7 ports are quite pricey from mini sport, and people say that they both work out the same... well to them i say *testicles!* I've been researching this for ages, u want to hear the breakdown...
You can get a 7 port casting for around £1000 at the moment. Then rather than buy the ready assembled heads from minisport for £somethinstupid, have it worked by slark or switftune for around £300-400. That gives you a head that is ready to bolt on for £1400.
An 8 port will cost £1600 for the head, add a few hundred quid for the special cam, some more for the exhaust, same goes for the inlet ports, and also it requires some machining on one of the con-rods i believe because of the funny cam lobes, there are also a few other bits and bob's that you need to consider too.
Then you need to take into account that because the 7 port is made from cast iron its far easier to fit bigger valves. Also, take into account that the 4 exhaust ports are largely unnecessary because the time between the exhaust ports opening on cylinders 2 and 3 are effectively 360deg apart, so there is no restricted flow occurring.
And then theres the packaging issue too, a 7 port will fit neatly under the bonnet, or if you prefer, you can have spacers so that the filter just pokes out the front, like on the britax cooper.
I'm all for the 8 port, its got good heratige and i can see why people like it, but its most likely gonna be 7 port for me
Ent been here for a while mostly because i have no money to do anything and things have been running fairly smoothly-ish.
I narrowly avoided a badger the other week, but still managed to bend my steering arm hitting the ditch on full lock :s Pretty impressive i'd say, as i managed to bend what you'd think would be the strongest part - the solid steel rack.... thanks to retroracer1380 for the quick replacement
Managed to get all the way to santa pod and back with no problems tho, took him up the drag strip and ran a 19.0 quarter mile, which i thought went too bad, i beat a fair few 1275's and a 1380
This weekend i'm gonna give the whole car a good wash and check over, started today buy getting it up on axle stands and first covering in suds with the jet washer, then jet washed it to get all the mud and bits off, then i washed it again with hot water and a sponge and rinsed with the jet washer. Then climbed under and cleaned underneath and the engine. Happy to say my white floor idea has come up trumps because not only was it easy to wipe clean, but there are a few small bits of rust i can see starting to appear, the great thing is they appear as bright orange blemishes in the white paint - so easy to spot before its too late.
Anyways.. so its wire wheel out over the next couple of days to keep on top of the rust. Also i noticed whilst i was under there, that i've managed to catch a few big rocks... and left some big scrapes... some of which are on the brake line... so i think my next priority is to run the brake and fuel lines through braided hoses inside the car.
ANYWAYS... the real reason im updating this is because i was out playing last nite, i thought you mite like this Altho i can reach 8000rpm in 1st and 2nd, i dont like to do it too often, so last nite i set it to a sensible 7000 rpm.. which is still enough to have plenty of fun. Anyways we found out that at 7000 on the limmiter it does this... tee hee
It didn't do it so much at 8000... i think its because the engine was close to its power limmit... rather than it being cut off whilst its making good power. It doesn't do it with the launch control either.... tho it is a lovely sound... and surprises a few people at traffic lights
Oh and if you didnt see earlier i put a pic request out earlier for 10x6 GB's, mini sprocket came up trumps so i could 'shop this
I ent always on ere because unlike you pie my good man, i dont just sit on my arse talking about what im going to do. I work, i buy stuff, and i get on with maintaining and fixing my car, so i can drive you about all day and you can buy rubbish knackard parts so that you can sit on ur arse again whilst watching me try and fix your stoopid banana! ... sorry, engine
....well..... during the holidays......... when im not 'avin it LArge at uni
Cheers gilly, its always loverly to read nice comments, hope you get on okay with you're project, start up a project thread, its one of the best things u'll do. Keep it updated and let people watch your progress, it helps a lot when people are egging you on, when you start loosing sight of the end
Shame this is a family forum, otherwise i cud cuss you publicly for better effect - yea i said 'cuss'... brap!
Anyways.... Motor.... well, er not done much dunno how, but my money seems to be dissapearing as quickly as i earn it, so cant afford to do much work recently. However its all about to start getting busy again, i hope. The MOT has ran out and the insurance runs out at the end of the month. Seeing as it wouldn't pass an MOT on (a) seized radius arm pins and (b) emissions because the piston rings are on their way out, i thought id just leave it off the road, whilst i sort the 1071.
Cheers oli for doin the weldin tho.... even tho it never went for the MOT :s
So, as a sorta fairwell drive, i up'd the rev limmiter to 8k and took the long way to work friday, down the back lanes. Didn't really push it on the corners or anythin because it was rainin, but did give it a pasting on the straights, and best of all, didnt catch up with any traffic It was rainin as i said, and i dont have a passenger wiper, and it was on a camera phone - but i did record it, so, enjoy....
Just to put the speed into perspective... it looks faster than i was actually goin, 60mph comes up just as you get into 3rd gear, but as you may hear, the pull in 3rd and 4th is a bit rubbish compared to 2nd, so rarely goin faster than 70 and probly averaging around the 50 mark.
Got reeeelly reeelly bored yesterday, so me and my mate craig decided to go back to my house this morning and start work in prep for the 1071, yaaay
The aim for the day was to just get the engine out and the gearbox in a state where i could strip it on my own at a later date.... we didn't hang about! We got back to mine at just after 11... by 12.15 the engine was out - who needs a stoopid engine crane! .... time for a break and a brew
Next, the engine was stripped of all major parts, basically leaving the block and gearbox attached to each other. So thats the rad, cowling, dizzy, alternator, coil, wok, flywheel, transfercase, and head.... bing bang bosh With parts now scattered all over the garage we had a little tidy up before splitting the block and box....
People who know, know there are two nuts either end of the gearbox that can be a pain in the arse, you've got to somehow hold the gearbox solid whilst undoing the 150ft/lbs nuts, in the past i've managed to do this by shoving the gearbox under the car and using a breaker bar, however this time i just ended up lifting the car up with the gearbox. So we decided to go to oli's who claimed he's got a speshul way of doing it.... i introduce to you, the cowboy engineer
(a bit of a pie moment there )
whats more, oli had another 'custom' tool for getting the input gear bearing off
then it took all three of us to get the damn giant c-clip off, i would have taken a photo, it was one of the funniest pie moments ever, but it really was a 3 man job
So now the gearbox is fully stripped and ready to be taken to the engine services to be cleaned and inspected, then i can start building various bits.
Now that the engines fully stripped it means i will soon be in a position to sell various bits, so if anyone wants first dibbs on any of the following let me know (via PM only please! ) And i will get back to you when i'm in a position to start selling and posting the bits. Be aware this is only first dibs, i aint selling it yet, so i dunno prices
Standard 12g940 head with 2 new valves and double valve springs
A kent 286 cam
A kent 286 scatter cam
Twin 1-1/4 carbs with minispares rampipes, on manifold
A budget LCB
Duplex timing gear
A lightened verto flywheel
I do also have my pocketed block... tho its got a broken stud in it (alternator bracket), and it needs a hone/rebore and new piston rings, and too be fair the pockets are a bit of bodgery too
Anyways thats all for now... not long now till 1071 powwwwweer
1071 should be in for christmas.
acctually, little update...
Everythings been stripped and a few bits have been taken to the engineers. As a precaution the block is going to be honed, and they're going to get me some new piston rings. The gearbox casing and the block are being drilled and tapped to accept bigger 5/16th bolts. Also the 'box, transfer case and wok are going to be chemically cleaned. Oh, and they're sending the crank off to be tuftrided (a fancy hardening process)
After much discussion with various peoples nick swift and a very helpful chap who races a 1071 in historic touring cars i have my desired finished specification, no messing around here From the top...
Weber 45 on the maniflow manifold
Maniflow stage 2 LCB and twin box centre exit system
The oselli head with its 36 and 31mm valves and isky double springs
MED 1.5 L-D roller rockers
Switune SW10 cam - their version of the 286, however has made more power than the 286 when used with a weber. Swifty was telling me its what they use on their 1071 racers with 1.5 rockers and twin SU's and the drivers complain they're too cammy should be interesting
Rally/race AP friction plate
1.08 ratio straight cut droppers
'Clubman' ratio s/c gearset - Dont get confused, 'clubman' doesnt mean they're the same ratio as a GT gearbox, the ratios are infact nearly identical to the ST ratios, except the gearset uses the standard 1st and reverse gears, thus its £100 cheaper
3.6 final drive ratio - with the droppers this goes up to the equivalent of a 3.9. This will be slightly hellish on motorways, especially with the drops, lol, but it should give blistering acceleration and with the gearset i'll see well over 60 in second gear tee hee
As for ancillaries i'll be going for a minispares super 2 core rad, but i feel theres no real need for an oil cooler, the chap didn't use one in his racer last year apparently and didnt have any problems, so i dont see why i should. 'Leccy ignition is on the cards too, for reliability. I've been using one on the 998 over summer and its been fantastic.
Si the don, from minispares is sorting out my monster order including the new bits and all the rebuild parts, should all be ready soon
Can't wait to build this engine i love building them, my favoritest bit, apart from driving em
Anyways as i was sayin mad4mins, yep should be at malvern, uni work permitting. As for the flywheel, along with all the other parts, are all for sale on ebay...
Mwhahahahah after making double what i expected selling everything i dont need, i've started getting things together.
After previous advise from swifty, i opted for the SW10... made the phone call yesterday, and look what arrived today...
One billet SW10 sire
Also today we went to MED Usually when you go to an engineers they can be quite miserable, and it just tends to be business and nothing else. MED is something else! we got chattin and must have been there for nearly an hour, practically got a guided tour of the place. You get the same sorta feeling walking round MED as i rekon women do walking down a high street of designer shops. The fact that he had the time for us was awesome, and we got to see some amazing stuff, like his ultimate modified pistons, dog gearkit, 8 ports... i could go on forever... ooo and we saw some prototype stuff, tee hee
It made what i walked away with seem rather petty .... i'll be back one day!
LD roller rockers
ARP head stud kit
Oilway pipe, flywheel bolts, 5/16 sump kit with copper gaskets
Still sorting out a big minispares order with simon, but still not rushing, i've gotta wait till i go back home at christmas before i can build it up.
Oh... and, i couldnt resist, they've been for sale for months now, and i recently found out that they are no-longer in production apparently, so i've bought 6 10x6 GB minilights off Gr4h4m not that i can fit them for aaages, because i need smaller brakes.
new wheels, ta Gr4h4m... ka-Pow!
Currently there is nowt stopping all the mud and water flying up into the engine bay. However a jet washer makes short work of any mud, just have to duct-tape over the vitals first, like the inlet trumpets and other holes. It is in my plans tho to make a flappy plastic removable cover outa the same stuff i made the mudflaps with to shield the new motor. Genrally speaking its not really an issue, its only when you start nobbing about in muddy fields... like... say... uuumm.... MITP2007 .... or .... uuuuummm.... muddy country lanes.
As for securing the front... i'm still working on that. At first i tried rubber bonnet hooks... they where rubbish, at the mo im using bonnet buckle straps... they're not great. I think im gonna have bite the bullet and use duez fasteners... not sure how they work...and i dont really like the look of em, but they seem to be a good tried and tested method.
Opinion is divided on the straps, but i like em... got some for the boot too
Was woken by the very cheery UPS man this morning In true TMF project tradition it was mandatory that i get everything out to.. er.. 'check' it and take photos
S/C droppers, S/C Clubman gearkit, Super 2core rad, and a load of other bits n bobs - bearings, ARP bolts, baulk rings, gaskets, radius arm pins and other bits that are essential, cost a lot of money, and never really consider when pricing up a build
4 weeks till i can build this little beauty.... can't wait!!!
'ello y'all... got a little, kinda, update. It's got me excited anyways
I've been speaking to Peter Barker recently (chap who writes about all the historic rally stuff in MiniWorld) because i found out the other day that has an SW10 in his 1071 rally car 977 ARX. Pete just so happens to be the admissions tutor for my course at uni, so i sent an email asking him various questions (i could have gone into his office, but that would have involved walking ) So anyways.. he's been nice enough to bring in his power graphs from when he had it RR'd so i can go and see them tomorrow
So i'll take a pic of it and tomorrow we shud have an idea of what sort of power and torque it will make.
His cars spec is very similar to mine, tho he cannot remember the exact spec of the head, so we don't know what size the valves are. Apart from that its exactly the same the only exception being i have 1.5 ratio rockers, so mine may be a bit more pokey.
Anyways... all i know so far is his engine made 105bhp@7000rpm!!!!!!!! at SMMC's roller i assume because they do all his engine work.
If you type in 977ARX on google u'll get loads about it, its a genuine ex-works rally car from the 60's i believe.
Anyways, saw Pete today, i forgot to take a photo as i was kinda a bit gobsmacked... it looked something like this (see shoddy diagram).. No word of a lie, a perfectly straight line from 3000rpm (didn't notice the power figure) up to 105bhp at 7000rpm. But what was just as impressive was the torque curve, 70ft/lbs from 3000 rpm up to roughly just over 80ft/lbs available from 5000.
well happy can't wait even more now, just 2 weeks left
3.9, so yea, more torque gets to the wheels and it should make it all a bit free-er and smoother. Went for the 3.9 (3.6 +1.08 ratio droppers) over the 4.1 because i'm thinkin the much improved power and torque of this engine would just rinse a 4.1. The main reason tho was for more suitable gearing. I could theoretically with the clubman gear ratios, get over 70 in second gear but also 60 at 7000rpm, with the 3.9 now. Unfortunately because of the 1:1 ratio i dont actually drop many rpms in 4th compared to the 4.1, probly only a couple of hundred rpm (it use to be 5000)
Straight cut drops at 5000rpm down the motorway, woop! should be fun
bungle - yea preferably - mite work a bit better ... however nt too sure how effective it would be just yet seein as there is nothing inside it.
Keen eye'd will notice the lack of a crank and timing gear.... I picked up the block and gear casing from bromsgrove engine services today (many thanks to them they do top work, and was even went in on a saturday so i could pick it up early ) I just put the block on top of the casing to make it look pretty
mini 93 - uni's over finally! Lots of progress soon.. tho starting tomorrow i will be in the garage pretty much all day solid, so will only be on t'interweb briefly... not like at uni when im logged on pretty much all day even when im out it stays on
Gotta repair the blasted radius arm pins first, for MOT, then the engine will go together very quickly
Still waiting for the hardened layshafts to come into stock at minispares, and gotta get the bits off dogmatix that he owe me... that chap has a memory like a sieve Then i'll ave everythin
Funny u should say that, i'm breakin it out tomorrow for 'adjustment' to the inside of the block...
Anyways, progress is guuud ent got any pics tho i'm affraid because i've been to busy
Sunday i spent repairing the radius arms, i managed to do them both in a day which was good. So with that out the way i started the engine on Monday afternoon by putting the head back together. Today i've done a test build of the block, to check all the clearances and stuff. So basically built up the whole thing as i would normally, timed the cam in, then put the head on with rockers to check to make sure i'm not gonna have trouble with exhausts valves hitting pistons, following a conversation i had with nick swift yesterday. I called him up for the timing figures for his cam, and he mentioned that i should check the clearance because of the small chamber size then get back to him with the figures... very helpful chap He said that 60thou is the absolute minimum and i've measured 90 without a head gasket (which is another 30thou) so i should be okay, woop!
Also while doing this i found the last cam lobe on the oil pump end is fouling the block casting where theres a little lump of metal left, so the dremels coming out 2morrow before i re-build it
After doin the block, i started the stripping the old mainshaft of 2nd and 3rd, thinking that i'd build the box up tomorrow, turns out it didn't take very long at all and the whole box is now finished more or less. Had to measure up the gaps of various shims that i'm gonna see if i can get from the engineers tomorrow.
I did make a massive schoolboy error, forgetting that the transfercase from the 1071 was pre-A+ with the smaller idler bearing, and my drops and gearbox are A+, which means tomorrow i've got to take one of the 998's transfer cases to the engineers to get it steam cleaned and pop the old bearings out
All in all its goin well and i anticipate that the motor will be nearly finished by tomorrow and in and fired up by the end of the week. Unfortunately tho, theres a few small bits do do for MOT that i dont think im gonna get done in time for an MOT on friday, so i'm gonna have to wait till after christmas
Well, after even after months preparing, trying to get everything ready so you can build you motor quickly and swiftly, i can promise you its not gonna happen. I took the short block apart after doing the dry build to grind the bit away and thats finally coming together nicely tho now, after sorting the correct size thrusters, whey! I think the main problem building stuff like engines and gearboxes in your garage is the lack of spares... namely shims and thrust washers to give you correct endfloats and clearances. Since being back from uni on friday i have been to the engineers on saturday, monday, wednesday, today, and i will be going again tomorrow!
Tomorrows the last chance because after tomorrow they're closed till january 3rd.
I gotta go again tomorrow so they can sort my baulk rings.. see here.. http://www.theminifo...x...c=66760&hl=
So gearbox has gotta come apart again woop... another set back
Nevermind, i'm not really in too much of a rush anymore, since the RR/MOT place aint gonna be open now for a week. Just hope i dont need any more bits from the engineers
Soz for the lack of piccys, theres not much to see to be perfectly honest all looks best when its all together.... so i took these
By the way, thanks to whoever put the 5star thingy on my project, i've no idea how you did it (unless its a moderator thing?), but i appreciate it thankyou
Well, its practically done now... well, that gearbox ent getting un-bolted anytime soon anyway! I've used allen cap 5/16 bolts and my god they are a PITA to do up! If you think doin up your gearbox bolts with a spanner is fiddly and time consuming, try it with an allen key!
Only a few things left now, gotta sort the rocker cover out for the new breather system, block some of the holes and then make some bigger ones Then gotta cut the bulkhead and make a weber box. I'm only gonna do a small one temporarily, because i'll just use some sock filters for the time being till i can decide what the next step is.
Unlike previous pics... all the bits are actually in there now The endfloats where all checked over and everything is shimmed up perfect, the cam is timed to swiftys recommended between 105 and 106.. so i've landed it on 105.5. Checked the valve clearances on the pistons and got a nice 89.5 thou on the inlet, checked the exhausts with plasticine and they where way off so nothing to worry about there. Also noticed while doing this that my piston comes about 10thou above the face of the block at TDC... apparently this is a very good thing and it'll 'pull like a train' according to BES, woop
Probs gonna have to wait till January now tho to get it on the road, as the engineers dont come back till the 3rd and they're the ones who gonna sort out my RR session so that i get a top notch job, woop
by the way if anyones ever looking for engine work to be done in the worcestershire/bromsgrove area i cant recomend BES enough, they've been so helpful, even so far as lending me a couple of deep sockets over christmas so i can do up my head studs (stupid ARP 'star' drive nuts)
Woop, its in
Thanks to oli who came round to give me a hand liftin it in. I started cutting to clearance for the weber, but need a new blade for the hacksaw to finish cutting as the angle grinder dont fit up the top. May get it fired up tomorrow but most likely not, got a few more things to get first, and gotta adapt the loom for the different starter. Its gettin there tho
Cuttin the bulkhead aint an issue, i done that anyway. The manifold isnt a swan neck either... this is a swan neck...
Mine manifold is about 3.5/4 inches long. Reason i'm sticking with it for now is a) i've got it, b) it's ported and matched the the head and c) if it was on the engine before and working fine i see no reason for changing it.
If, when i go to the rollers they say i could see a big power hike with a bigger one then i'll consider it, but for now this one will be fine
Soz to leave you on a 'cliffhanger' as you put it, been bit busy, and having trouble getting the car to fire up, i blame the freeeeeezing weather and the stupidly complicated weber. I know people rave about them, and i'm sure it'll be good once set up, but frankly, unless absolutely necessary for all out power... they are rubbish. Gimme SU's any day!
It eventually fired up today, thanks to oli who came over to lend a hand, but it wont idle without throttle, tho again i imagine this is down to the weather. Retired for the day now because its too cold, may have another crack at it tomorrow, if i get the chance to go get more fuel. Rather annoyingly its back to uni on sat, so then the only chance i get to work is on weekends.
Its not far off tho, it'll get there soon
It'll be fiiiiiine. I think you gotta take what people say about stuff like this with a pinch of salt. Yes, engine companies do know more than us, but when they say any shorter than 5" will be poo, what they mean is, any shorter than 5" wont be as good. The reason webers are so reputable is more because of the way they deliver fuel more than anything else... that thing that makes them so complicated is what makes them so good too.
This engine has ran all its tuned life with this manifold, i don't see any valid reason to change it just yet. Its a cast steel oselli (or maniflow... cant remember now) manifold. I should have taken a pic, but when you take the carb off and with the valves out you can see how they have been ported together, s'all cushtey, dont worry
I'll try that pumping thing, i'm aware of the pump jets, we where trying actually to open the throttle slowly so as not to flood the engine.
Its a 45 by the way, duno what any of the jets are. But i cant see to be honest how they can be too far out, the original engine spec was exactly the same, only thing i've changed is the 1.5 forged rockers for rollers, and the 286 scatter for a SW10. The SW10 should make a tad more power, but it shouldn't really be so far off that the car is this hard to start.
was gonna keep this quiet till the car passes its MOT, but i'm bored andwaitin to go home tomorrow to finish the car....
Last weekend i went home and it was a shambles to say the least. The plan was to get the car finished on the weekend then RR'd and Mot'd on Monday. Things went tits up from the start.
-The new 'leccy ignition i bought didnt fit because the lobe things have been machined of my dizzy shaft, thats no so much a problem as the old one still fits, it just looks a bit messy.
-Then the speedo cable i got was too short, as mine's bout an inch futher forward than normal...in the end i bodged the screw thread fitment onto the end of a longer speedo cable.
-The brakes just wouldnt bleed, then i snapped the nipples.
-And the engine refused to idle under 3000rpm and i cant even dip the clutch without it stalling.
In the end i had to cancel the MOT and RR and re-book it for this week. So nothin exciting
This weekend thers not so much to do, just sort the brakes out, and tidy up a few things really. The RR guy, Malcom, has said he can pick the car up on a trailer Monday morning, so i wont have the headache of trying to set up that stupid weber either.
Cant wait till monday now , but at the same time bit nervous about driving it for the first time with the new powerplant
Went to the rollers today
Dont get to excited
Spent nearly 4 hours setting up that stupid carb, so the bloody thing idled properly. It was idling lovely, then went to put it on the rollers, dipped the clutch and it stalled... not a good sign. Kept happening, and the guy suggested that i mite have put the trust washers in the wrong way round... and i was adement that i hadnt. In the end there was nothing else to try except get it back home on the trailer and check it.
Turns out i was right, i had not put the thrusters in the wrong way. The problem tho, was that one of them was too big. When i first put the motor together i used 3 thou oversize thrusters on all four. After guaging the gap i then changed a pair of them for a pair of standard size thrusters, to get the correct gap of 6 thou. It turns out one of these two std size washers was a +3thou, incidently it was the one that sits in the block, not the mains cap, hense why when i re-checked the gap, i measured it at 6thou, which should have been fine - and i didnt notice the other one.
So its back to looking like this...
Pretty hacked off right now , but, people make mistakes and i'm not going tarnish anyones reputation on a public forum just yet, i'll give them a chance to grovel first
Hopefully when this is fixed tho, all should be good... fingers crossed hey
Soz alex, got no idea how he tuned the weber. I asked him how he knows what he's doin, lol, thers soo many parts and different combinations of everything, and the difference between it working and not is fractions of a fraction of a mm. I'd imagine your best bet would go and speak to someone who knows, and ask them to show you mate, because its all witchcraft to me.
Boo... the problem was i had no endfloat. With the thrusters in, you knock the crank over to one side, so its pushed up against a pair of the washers. Then on the opposite side you measure the clearance between the thrust face and the thrust washers, and it should be between 4 and 6 thou (i think or its mite be 5-7?). To get the right clearance i needed one pair of +3 thou oversize thrust washers, and one standard pair. It turns out one of the standard pair was also +3 thou oversize... which didnt give enough clearance.
Pie boy... u said i got em in the wrong way round, i'm not that clumsy
Been busy today, picked up various bits to put the motor back together, got new thrusters... learnt my lesson now... always measure end float with a dial on the end of the crank... if i'd have done that this would have shown up the first time round
Engines goin back in 2morra hopefully, got a few tips off the RR guy on sortin out the brakes and should have time to do them tomorrow too.
The RR guy also suggested i put a box in for the weber, as it could be considered a fire hazard So i fabricated this little beauty... well pleased how it turned out, i was like back at school when we used to make 'nets' for 3D shapes and make em outta paper... cept this time it was in ally, woop! found a real world use for something i did at school!
what u chattin b'aaat, pie wern't there
Yea, the hope is to be at bingly, fingers crossed.
I can very happily say that its all back in now Gotta run down the motor factors first thing to get some brake fluid and oil. With any luck and all running smoothly (which it undoubtably wont) i may be able to get it done in time to run him down to the rollers in the afternoon
I never got round to starting her last nite, because it was 9.30, and i didnt want to *yellow human water* off the neigbours.
However..... it started today , first time too! The clutch works properly now too, so i went for a little joyride to the top of my road
Thats the good news, the bad news is the RR/MOT didnt have time to do ther today, and the RR guys not in tomorrow, so it wont be going to bingly It's now booked for next friday. I could have got her mot'd somewhere else, but the main issue really is setting up the carb, i'm hoping it'll sail-ish, through its mot. At the moment, its idling lovely, you have to dial in about 2500rpm to move (i live on a bit of a hill tho), but it starts spluttering and wont really go any higher than 5000rpm but between 2500 and 5000 is well exciting And the gearbox all works lovely, and the drops whine nicely, not too loud... not too quiet
As matt said, the weber boxes dont have to be welded, i see a lot of people rivet them in. I used srews tho, because i've realised that hole there was quite convinient for messing behind the dash, so i wanted it to be easily removeable. I actually had a little.... er... 'discussion' with the guy about the hole, my argument being that original centre speedo minis had a hole there without the plate (hense why they're always rusty), he rekoned they had the plate there tho. Baaa
As for running it in, it'll get a little bit of running in on the rollers, and on the journey to said rollers... thats bout it. Obviously i'm not got go tearing out the MOT station bouncing it off the limmiter at every gearchange. But i ent gonna fa**y about, you stand more chance of glazing the pistons if you run it in too slowly than if you boot it all the time...apparantly. I'm sure Malcom (the RR guy) will advise. They know their stuff there, they're involved with all sorts of racing types, in the workshop they got a historic racing MG, a mini and something else, they got a mad spaceframed beetle thing, a tvr, a few autograssers and some other stuff i never saw that was in the trailers. They do all the race prep for customers, they do pit crew at some events, and they got a few of their own cars. So its alllllll good
Cheers for the comments
Got a bit of an update
Got it to the rollers today, drove it there... goes lovely above 3000rpm Its been on the rollers for 4 hours and still strugglin to sort out a big flatspot where there is absolutly no power till 3k. Something to do with the air speed or something? I think malcom must have tried absolutly every singe jet in his box, and he's even changed the 45 for a 40 with 30mm chokes, instead of the 36's it had before. Its getting better, and it certainly looked and sounded like it was better on the rollers, but after taking it for a spin it still wern't that great. Its much better than it was, but it aint great.
Of course its expected that its gonna be a bit flat before the cam comes in, but as it is, its a bit dangerous. When pulling off it crawls and bounces along very slowly till 3k and its easy to stall. The only other option is to pull off at 3k in a cloud of tyre smoke, not ideal!
For those who want to know its consistantly making between 75 and 80 at the wheels so far. His dyno's all analogue, no graphs or anythin, and it reads in mph on the guage, but glancing at the rev counter in the car it was at about 6500/7000rpm i think, or 100mph on the rollers guage anyway. Seems like there's more to come from it too, the needle on the bhp guage handnt reached its peak yet i dont think, it was still climbing at 7000rpm and showed no signs of stoping
Its still at the rollers, left it there and malc's gonna have another play tomorrow.
Bit gutted its still not done, but it is getting there... if not a little slow
I got no idea mate, may well be induction length, or the cam and head i ent got a clue. Maybe the demands of the slightly lumpier cam now need a longer manifold. I was thinkin that tonight acctually, and i mite mention it to him tomorrow, i would have thought he'd pick up on it tho.
I must admit that i find it a bit odd that barkers mini is runnin fine on a 45, all be it without the 1.5 rockers, yet mine is strangly running a bit betters on a 40, with more lift? :S He does have a 5 inch manifold tho maybe its the way forward? ..... hurmmmmmm
Well, finally, sorted the problem!
What a ball-ache it was to get there tho!
Malc called me up this morining having had someone else go to his to have a look. They had wound the dizzy up to 60deg advance, which made the initial 3000rpm much smoother, but in theory, it should be pinking its nuts off - but it wasnt. It lead them to believe that either the dizzys ********'d or the cam timing is way out.
So i went to malc's with a new dizzy and ignition system, thanks to oli. Tried it first, as that was easiest, and it didnt really get any better. So, instead, we decided to limp the mini home, tear it apart, and re-check the cam timing. Dispite the fact that i'd already checked it after last time it was out. To make sure it wasnt me doing anything wrong, oli checked it, and found it to be right on the mark, 105.75.
Decided to ring southam mini centre and see what they rekoned on the subject. Their advise was the 1.5 rockers where too much. Confused me a little, as the car came with 1.5's, and i didnt want to loose my top end power. But, at this point, we didnt have a lot to lose, so we but its back together with standard sintered rockers.
And now...... its goes, and it REALLY does go! Like a rocket! And to be honest, i dont think i've lost anything on the top end... i know its a fresh engine an' all, and the weber hasnt even been re-tuned since the 1.5's have come off, but i couldnt resist... but it got to 9000rpm in first before i changed and was still pulling Think a bit of self control will be in order for a while, but knowing what it's now gonna be capable of... its just imense.
Doesnt feel like a mini engine, its not as brutal as a 1380, its just an awsomly smooth power delivery, from somewhere between 3-4000 rpm... till whenever you decide to change gear
Dunno what to do about these 1.5 rockers now If anyone wants them, they cost me Â£260 new, and i'd like something close to that, bearing in mind the only mile's they've done have been on the rolling road. When i spoke to southam, they did say, they are by far the best you can get, its just a shame they are a bit overkill on my motor. I do want some proper 1.3 rockers tho, as sinterd ones are actually more like 1.2-1, and i dont think they're gonna last too long. I'm gonna speak to MED first and see if they can do anything to adapt them, but if anyone has any sensible offers, send me a PM.
Soz bout the essay, think it might be benifical for some to read tho, as 1.5's get talked about a lot, and this is an example where it seems, with the wrong cam, they are useless ... dammit! should have kept that lame ass 286scatter!
Yea, i got it from smudger, dunno if he's still around at the mo tho, ent seen him for a while. Try curley for a quote. If you want the weave showing for show purposes tho, i wouldnt bother, especially on the bonnet. What happens is the heat from the motor turns the laquer a milky colour very quickly, its not so bad on the boot, however the sun still has an effect on it. Ideally, if you can get someone to do it, you want pre-preg stuff, it'll look much much better, and will be much stronger too.
Small update, took it for MOT, nearly passed was surprised as i was expecting a massive list of problems Nothing major, just a few loose bolts, a missing split pin and the emissions.
Now the standard rockers are on, its running silly rich hence failing emissions, i dont dare touch the carb tho incase i completely fluff it up and i cant get to the rollers again. Its booked in for saturday on the rollers now and re-test on Monday, touch wood it should sail through now
Yaaaay, it goes.... and its got MOT
Its taken long enough, considering it was ment to be done for christmas!
Made somewhere between 80 and 85 bhp on the rollers on saturday (at the wheels), not 95 as pie optimistically said! because its analogue, its just got a big dial with bhp goin up in 5hp incruments, so its hard to tell exactly how much power its got when teh needle shoots up... especially when tryin to see the revs at the same time.
S'all good so far, if you keep it in the right gear, it goes like stink. You really do need to use the gears tho, especially now that they're all a little higher, i tend to use 1st loads now.
Its rubbish on petrol too!
All that said tho, its imense fun! And it goes just as well as a sorted 1380.
On another note.... check out ma drive
Well, its our uni drive anyway, stuff of dreams... its so rare that all our cars are working at the same time!
Those are the GB's on too, just seein what they look like
Been out for a drive last nite, it seems the 1071 is fairly similar to the 1380, infact with a passenger in mine, the 1380 has got the legs! So, i went with craig to southam today for a chat, and so craig can book a quick tune up. We came to the decision that in a couple of weeks when both our cars are run in properly, we'll go back for a tune up and they're gonna advise me on where i can get more power.
After a quick chat tho, it seems getting real power from 1071's requires engine management, and lots of other trickery thats very different compared to what you'd normally need, like the way the head is modified. Not something i'd be lookin to do anytime soon tho but somethin to think about in the future
I got some old stuff for sale too, a close ratio box, the ol' weber 45 and an alloy inlet, all to be found here
Erm... i don't know, and i try not to think Like a lot of people tho, i keep getting new ideas and trying something different.. so the cars been through loadsa different stages before its got to this, and its still got a way to go in my eyes. I dont think i could tell you how much its cost to get it this far, but its more than i'd ever imagined.
On another note... it turns out my pistons ent great at handling nearly 12-1 CR and over 8000rpm on a regular basis, and one of them has gone all wobbly. Hopefully its just a piston ring and the bore looks fine, so just need a hone and a new ring-set.
Well, heres a little update for you.... Its all gone tits up!
I was driving along the other week and the motor started clonking... we pulled over straight away, to cut a long story short i left it on my drive at uni and didnt drive it, then towed it home a few days later. We got the motor out and found this... one knackard piston..
I'll get pictures of them tomorrow but the big end bearings where also destroyed. The crank however looked okay. Turns out it wasnt I went to the engineers today to have it polished and we noticed a great big ridge in the crank... with the big ends being on 60thou, this means its game over.
We dont have a clue what went wrong, it apears that the broken piston had hit the head, which is understandable because it was flapping about without its skirt on. What i dont understand tho is how the big ends are so trashed, but the mains are immaculate. Its evedent from the mains bearings that there was a little oil contamination, but this could just as easily happened after the big ends got trashed. Gutted as i am, theres sod all i can do about it now anyway, the crank is effectively scrap.
6 weeks it lasted... it was an awesome 6 weeks, but im dissapointed after taking so much effort to make sure it was all correct, that it let go so soon.
Never-the-less, i have a backup plan and the 1071 will be back one day, stronger than ever before
The pistons still flat i think, its got marks on it where its hit the head, but i think thats most likely because of it wobbling in the bore. Bromsgrove engine's said it wasn't to do with high compression due to the fact the top half of the piston is fine. They mentioned that the con-rod stretch could have lead to all the pistions just kissing the head, which would take out the bearings, but i dont think theres any marks tho on the other 3 pistons. Tis definatly weird
The motor was run in on the rollers, then i took it fairly easy for a week or so with occasional moments of ragging the tits off it. Should have been fine, it was due an oil change, previously when i changed the oil inbetween the countless trips to the rollers, nothing showed up... so i'm pretty stumped as to what happened.
The hazard switch was from Auto Electric Supplies
Hope yours goes better timbo, i think this was a freak accident, if i find out what the cause was i'll let you know so you dont make the same mistake. I will be keeping the 1071, but its gonna be a bit different next time, even more speshul, and built to be bomb-proof!
Tis a bit chicken and egg, its hard to figure out what went first really. I wouldnt say slots are necessarily bad, they are perfectly fine in many peoples motors, and these pistons where given a hard time. I was warned that long periods above 8/8500rpm was their limmit, and occasionally i did go above that, but never for an extended period, only really went over 8k in first.
Need to see the other pistons to determine whether they where all hitting the head, which would explain why it happened - which so far is the most reasonable explanation. The engineers said that every 1000rpm accounts for 3thou conrod stretch. If you work this out at 9000rpm max...
9x3=27 + the 12thou my pistons sit above the block face = 39thou
And i believe that the compressed thickness of a head gasket is around 33thou? if it is, then its plain to see what happened.
Whats not plain to see tho, is how this motor ever ran with its previous owner. It would have been interesting actually to see what it was like if i'd have just left it alone and plonked it all straight on a gearbox and took it for a drive. From what i've learned so far... it shouldnt have worked
oh, and for jackman and others who like engine failures.... this is what happens to a std 998 piston at 8000rpm when you time your 286 cam in wrong....
maaaan... i ent been here for aaaages
firstly.. let me say.. BUY MY WHEELS http://www.theminifo...uct/5158/cat/15
Yea, new motors all up and running now, an 1188.
Based on a south african 70mm crank, 73.5mm floating forged pistons, 'h' section rods, new head from southam mini an metro centre, split webers, bp300 cam.. erm.. i think all the rest is the same as the old 1071, gearbox and flywheel-wise. It made 90bhp at the wheels on southams rollers.
Dissapointingly only managed to get a 16.9 on the dragstrip at santa pod. So not that quick yet, needs taller gearing i think, its currently on a 3.9 diff, but i'll probly change it to a 3.7 or 3.6 soon.
The 998 i had was a standard battered bottom end, smoked horribly. You wouldnt want it if you wer driving it every day. Just had a 286, standard rockers.
Heres some answers to all your questions.. I've been tooling around in this for over 2 years now and its time for more power.. so its for sale. £4k is a starting price, i'll listen to any offers.
Copied from the ad you can find in teh classifieds
Its consistantly made 90bhp at the wheels on both southam's rollers and Sam's @DNG in malvern. Thats about 110/105bhp at the fly.
The spec is as follows...
A south african sourced 1071 crank on 10/10. Backdrilled, balanced and lightened.
Pre A block offset bored to 73.5mm (makes 1188cc total). decked to achieve desired 11-1 CR. new camshaft and crank bearings 2000miles ago, enlarged 5/16 gearbox studs. MED braided oil pipe. ARP studs. Centre main strap.
Piper BP300 deg cam
Minispares 1.3 ratio roller rockers
MED Forged Ultra Leightweight pistons
Specialist components H-section conrods modified with smaller little end bush by Farndon cranks to accept MED lighter gudgeon pin.
Southam Mini centre trackday head 31/36 valves ported and skimmed (ported especially for use with split webers. Isky springs with titanium valve caps.
Split weber 40's (36mm chokes)
Ultralight flywheel with grey spring plate and minispares heavy duty friction plate
Minispares clubman s/c gear kit and 1.08 ratio s/c drop gears.
3.44 final drive with cross pin diff.
Right. Im not going to lie and tell you ive never ragged it. Instead, I'm going to tell you what its actually like...
Its fast. But not fast like a 1380.. Its as fast as defiantly, but it doesnt have the surge of torque like a 1380 that makes it feel as fast. Insead though, you get an engine you can litterally rev the nuts off. If you forget to change gear, it with just keep going up to 9000 rpm. Realistically tho, changes at 8k are faster. The useable power is great too, 4-8 k on an engine like this is brilliant.
Its not easy to drive at slow speeds, but you get used to it, down twisty lanes is where you'll feel the benifts most. Keep it in the right gear (which with the nicer power curve than a 1380 is easy!) and you'll have so much fun.
Please understand tho, whilst i do drive this engine, I also look after it, no expense spared.. as you can see, the spec for the internals are over engineered far beyond what an engine like this would ever be capable of. It was built 2 years ago with all new parts by myself with help from southam mini and metro centre and the block machine work by bromsgrove engineering. I have recipts for all the work done and all the parts purchased. I also have photos of all the internals before they went in and as it was being built.
Reason for sale is I want to build a SC 1380 16v sprint engine, I cant use two engines and it seems a shame to strip this engine.
Engine is currently still in the car so can be sampled and driven by prospective buyers
£4000 offers, try me...
Bello, just popped into the forum doing some research and whilst I was here thought I'd update this.. Kind of..
The car was used until 5/6 years ago when it was taken off the road for rust repair. Which has escalated into a sprint conversion and major rebuild. The engine was never sold, that's being kept in the hope of finding a nice mk1 to put it in. A new engine is being built for the sprint, still short stroke, but to a much higher caliber. I set up an instagram account for the car which you can find @combustionguild Updates are slow as I don't have as much time to work on it now, what with being a kind of adult of sorts, I have a job which have to attend.
Thanks for the continued interest :)