Newman cam install by zirconmr2

By diyauto
( 2 )

Newman cam install 

Compliments of zirconmr2 @


Diy Newman camshaft install, here’s how it all went down….

Tools & stuff required:
Wheel brace
Socket set, with, 8mm deep, 10mm, 13mm, 16mm, 18mm, 19mm, and various length extensions etc.
T30 torx
5mm Allen key
Clean rags/kitchen towel
Paint for marking the cam sprocket and chain
Cam locking tool
Engine oil
Cam lube

New camshaft
New valve cover gasket?
New valve cover bolts?
New cam sprocket bolt?
New timing chain tensioner?
Oil filter?
Sump plug?

If in doubt as to your mechanical abilities or you lack the required intelligence, STOP, pay one of the specialists (1320, mad4mini, lohen etc) to do it for you, research the info available on cam choices and tuning of the cam before you make a decision.

First you need to Jack up front right of car and secure,

Now remove front the right wheel, Pop the bonnet.

Remove strut brace if you have one.

Remove the intercooler snoot boots.

Remove intercooler front brackets. They would sit here.

Remove intercooler, I have an airtec. On a stock IC, remove the cover and then the IC.

Remove pitch bracket (early models only).

Support the engine on your jack using a wooden block or similar to spread the weight.
Undo the left engine mount bolt and earth strap.

Raise the engine a little. Remove the left engine mount bracket.

Remove coil pack and leads, 10mm socket, not really needed but I wanted to grease the bolts a bit.

Remove rear intercooler backets.

Remove breather pipes from valve cover.
Clean valve cover of any crap, oil and dust etc.
Remove valve cover bolts and remove valve cover, (4 bolts require an 8mm deep socket). Mine were rusty and knackered, 2 of them required a stud remover, 2 of them I hammered a 7mm socket onto, and one I knocked a 5mm reverse torx onto, I would recommend trying to remove these before getting ready to do the job, then you know how many will need replacing, this way you can have all the relevant parts for the job and need to disappear to the dealers to get some. The top ones here are knackered.

Remove the valve cover and gasket.
Clean again any crap away again, you don’t want any to get inside the engine.

Loosen chain tensioner cover bolt, this is next to the oil filter housing, 19mm socket and angled extension needed. This is why the wheel was removed, you might find access better through the wheel well? A bit of oil will run out, catch it in a bowl.

Unplug and remove cam position sensor. Clean it up before refitting it!

Rotate cam until arrow points up. Mark the chain and sprocket with paint just in case you lose timing.
Lock cam with locking tool and loosen the cam sprocket bolt, don’t remove it just yet.

Undo rocker rail bolts, start at number 1 DOH! And follow the sequence (it got this info from the BMW TIS disc).

You can now remove cam bolt.
And now the rocker rail bolts.
Put the rocker rails and bolts in a clean safe place, lay them out as they were in the car, they will go back in the location they came from.
Remove the cam caps lay those in order too.

Now remove your old camshaft.
Clean the surfaces between the head and cam caps, they want to be free of oil.

you can start to rebuild. I didn’t take photos of the refitting, the above photos should suffice if you need reference.
Use cam lube on the cam lobes and cam caps. (not where the 2 surfaces meet).

Put in the new cam, locate the pin in the sprocket, fit the cam tool and loosely fit the new cam sprocket bolt.

Refit the cam caps.

Fit the rocker rollers, make sure the valves are seated in the correct place as you loosely fit the screws, tighten them in increments in the same order as you removed them (from inside out in a spiral motion) once they are all finger tight, and tighten to 22 ft lbs.

Now torque the cam sprocket bolt to 75 ft lbs.

Remove cam locking tool.

Pour new oil over cam and valve springs etc.

Fit a new valve cover gasket on the valve cover.

Refit cam position sensor.

Replace valve cover and fit new bolts if needed, torque to 9 ft lbs.

Locate wiring over bolts.

Refit the breather pipes.

Replace the timing chain tensioner, the metal end goes in first, torque the cover to 46 ft lbs if possible.

Replace the intercooler brackets, I didn’t bother, as the airtec doesn’t use them.

Replace coil pack, don’t over tighten the bolts, the valve cover is plastic and cracks if you do!

Replace the pitch bracket.

At this point, I decided to do the VGS mod, it’s supposed to slam the bypass valve shut to eliminate yo-yoing. I just want to see if it makes a difference or not.
To do the VGS mod, make a hose like this.

Look to your bypass valve, on it you will see a vacuum hose, remove the end of the hose that goes to the diaphragm, put s screw in it to cause a blockage. Take the end of your new hose and attached it where the hose you just blocked came from.

Now locate the fuel pressure regulator, there is a vacuum hose on here, remove it and attached your hose instead.

The other end of the hose you just removed goes to the left bullhorn, remove it and attached your hose. That’s the VGS done.

Replace the intercooler and snoot boots, I find rotating the boots is an easier way to get them on.

You’re almost done, you should have no spare parts, if that’s the case, Start your engine, the chain tensioner might rattles for a few seconds as it fills with oil and extends, you can try starting the car and immediately turning it off 3 times, this helps the oil fill the tensioner without the chain rattling away.
Refit your wheel,
Lower the car
Done! Pat yourself on the back.

I would recommend doing an oil change, just incase any crap did get in there, flush it out….

I started this at 10am this morning and was done by 1.30, that includes taking notes and pictures, everything works as it should, the idle is slightly lumpier, but hardly noticeable.


Great detail!

Posted by Diggymart on 4/12/19 @ 1:37:15 PM