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Morris, The Mini Moke! - 56k Warning
Compliments of liirge @ theminiforum.co.uk
Morris, has been in the family since his original purchase in 1966 by my grandfather, We are farmers, and the moke was used on the farm so had to take quite a punishment. In 1993 the car finally retired to a farm building after what my father said was a bad drive shaft. In August of 2007 i expressed some interested in restoring her back to original condition, i have never rebuilt a car, more farm machinery and tractors, i knew quite a fair bit, and was unaware of how big the mini scene was. I finally decided to start work in October of 2007, and i have taken photos through out the work. I would like to say that were the car is, there is no running water (im working on it), I was also told te car had a 1275GT installed into it (Later this was found to be incorrect)
Enough of my talking, and here are some pictures of how she was:
Notice that is mud that has managed to build up between the arch and the Wheel.
WORK HAS BEGUN
The moke has been jacked up and brand new tyres have been installed. The next step is to take apart the wheels hubs as some of them have seized. I am waiting upon a tool to arrive to do this.
Rear Wheel hubs are siezed, handbrake possibly left on?
Well, Handbrake was left on! The passenger side Drum has been restored using Emery Paper, that was a chore. The Shoes however are going to have to be replaced.
The Wheel Arch has been Cleaned by me it took 3 hours, but the results are pretty amazing if you check out the pictures you'll see what i mean!!
I FOUND THE IGNITION KEY!!!! The Brake master cylinder needs replacing, the whole system needs bleeding. Both the Master and Slave Clutch Cylinders are also in need of replacing!
The other rear (Drivers side) Wheel arch has been cleaned, and the drum for that side has been restored aswell. The wheel bearing on Drivers Rear side completely broke as i took it off, theres still part of it left on the stub axle. I hope the stub axle is OK. The Grease nipples for the Radius arms are gonna need replacing, there not working so well!!!!
The rear Wheel Bearing came off with a puller, what a chore. The Stub axle is fine, the bearings ruined!The Front has been worked on i managed to remove the backplate on that aswell as the shoes. The plate was attached to the Engine bay by a rubber braking pipe. The bolts all were so corroded on that all spanners and sockets used on it just rounded it. After hours of work and BRUTE FORCE they came off and new brake hoses have been ordered.
Now to get to the other front brakes on the passenger side the Radiator has to be removed. I started work on this today, and its one hell of a job, The rubber piping has perished and useless, one of the retaining clips for the hoses has stuck, A bolt on the engine block going into the thermostat has sheared off, Oops!
NOW on a normal mini it wouldn't have been to hard to loosen and remove, as the front grill comes off and you can just reach in. HOWEVER the moke is different the front grill DOES NOT come off. In the end we had to undoo the sliding nuts on the Dynamo and slid the drive belt off. Now from underneath and with great difficulty and several dislocated joints the bolt holding the radiator at the bottom came off!!!
The Good The Bad and The Ugly!
Well letsa start with the good news! The radiator has come out finally and looks in good nick, im going to air clean it. The Brake pipes have arrived aswell, so hopefully in the new weeks the brakes will be up and running and can be tested for leaks!
The front passenger side brake hose came off slightly easier than drivers side, but it was still a couple of hours work.
Now the bad news. The Thermostat wasn't properly installed! and who ever last replaced it sheared part of the cylinder head. i have been informed that it was actually a problem when the moke was last used, apparently it overheated BADLY! so it could be a Â£200 Cylinder head for me. The CV Joints are caput, and i really mean completely gone, theres oil leaking from the gearbox, were the drive shafts attach, so there gonna have to be taken out, and replaced!!
Notice the oil leak!
well, there has been a lot of discussion and arguments since the last update. I will try and update in order of happenings. The Drive shafts came out, after a hell of a palaver involving the purchase of a Ball Joint remover - that required an ever increasing size of mallet to finally separate all of them, The rubber on the ball joints has to be replaced. were the drive shafts came out one side was pouring oil from the Gearbox\Differential.
I have loosly Wire brushed both front Wheel arches. The Dynamo has come out finally, and left a gaping whole in the Engine bay.
The Big Debate since last time, was should i buy a second hand engine that has been run recently for about Â£450ish, or replace the Cylinder head and pray to god that neither the Clutch or Gearbox has caput.
We rang some people (M&M Mini's www.Mini-Metro.co.uk) and they have spent the last 2 days looking for an engine that will actually fit the parts we have, but our chances are SLIM to say the least. If they cant find anything by Friday, its a new Cylinder head and divine intervention!!!
Other parts to have come out this week are the Manifolds both exhaust and inlet, and with that the Carb. also. While i was at the Manifolds i decided it would be prudent to take the WHOLE exhaust system off!! im now feeling the aches from that decision. The moke has been moved from the bottom of the Store, to the top by the Workshop. I have removed the Shock absorbers, one was Knackered completely and the other one was on its way out, both need replacing.
So alot of stuff has been taken out but not much new stuff has been put in!! there are a LOT of boxes full of bits and bobs.
Well today marks the 1 month anniversary of starting work on the moke, its been quite slow, but other commitments are taking there toll, but there seems to be an awful lot taken off and not alot of new bits put back on!!!
Yesterday i cleaned the floor pan, and discovered RUST!! its not to bad, but it looks expensive. I dont know anything about body work, and i can weld but not well, so not up to MOT standard.
Well, you may expect that loads of work has happened as i haven't written for a month and a bit, well your in for a disappointment. I'll go through the order of events.
The engine from the moke was lifted out and put onto a DIY work surface i made. The cylinder head was removed to be replaced at a later date. The oil filter removed as well as the inspection hatches.
The removal of the engine from moke, allowed a closer look at the oil leak, The plate that covers the Output drive was removed, but i cant seem to be able to get the rubber seal out, i think its been bodged in the past with gasket sealer.
I then spoke to the man at the re-spray place to get a preliminary booking, it was decided that he should respray the engine bay, and do the under seal as well as weld the Rust spots! i have decided to clean up the Engine and paint it back to BMC green. I purchased 2 cans of GUNK to degrease and clean the engine.
THEN WE WERE ROBBED on the 5th and 6th of December.
THEY DIDN'T TAKE THE MOKE THOUGH!!!!
And since then it has been hard to do any work due to lack of tools and police work, but i have started to clean the engine, its going to take TIME!! i mean real time.
I hope to start work again next week.
Work Stared on the moke again, Front suspension is the name. Have removed the upper suspension arm on the moke, this involved compressing the rubber cone spring, and then prise out the trumpet from the knuckle joint. and then drifting out the pivot shaft. It was hard to pick up a thread on the rubber cone spring, but eventually we managed by putting allot of force downwards and turning the tool.
The Nearside however is a different story. The rubber cone was perished, well the thread inside was anyway, so we had to tap a new thread into it, that was interesting. and then compress the spring, we did so and, the tool lost grip and bang it uncompressed again. So we managed to pick up a thread again and compressed very slightly. This allowed us with ALOT of work to prise out the trumpet from the knuckle joint.
The Pivot shaft however will not budge, i believe the spacer has rusted in the subframe, and therefore the pivot shaft cant drift out. there is very little room to hammer the shaft out from the other end, I've decided i'm going to drop the subframe out, this will give me enough room to hammer it out and force the spacer to loosen.
More trouble, the Idea today was to drop the Front Subframe, a usually quite simple task of undoing a few hard to reach Bolts, and carefully lower the frame away, trying not to bend it. However, this is the moke, and nothing is simple. The Fittings and mounts for the subframe underneath the footwell have completely rotted through, leaving a couple of welded bolts, unwelded and spinning on them selves.
Spoke to the coachworks today, Decided that he needs both the subframes off anyway, so tomorrow i'm going to crack the nuts, with a nut cracker, and hopefully drop the front suspension, remove the pivot shaft, and start work on the rear suspension. Ive set a deadline of Friday, for the moke to be completely ready to be taken away and have necessary done to it over at the coachworks.
Front subframe dropped today, it was quite allot of work we had to completely destroy the bolts holding the subframe in from the bulkhead under the footwell, Used nut crackers, Hacksaws, pliers, screwdrivers and mole grips. The subframe was awkward to remove from the body. The Extension bar to the gearbox made it hard to lower the subframe without breaking it. The pillars on the subframe meant we had to lift the car up quite alot and remove it sideways once it was loose.
Once the subframe was removed i bashed the Pivot arm on the upper suspension arm out, all the threads are wrecked and i tried to Die them but it was no good, so im gonna need a new pivot arm.
I also removed the balls from the trumpets. And i found out that the windscreen isn't welded but just bolts on (I was told my grandfather had welded it as it broke once), so i can remove it before i send it off to the coachworks!
So, what do you guys wreckon??? looking forward to hearing from you!
Most of the knuckle joint was still inside the Upper suspension arm:
The removal of the both subframes has happened, and through this job i have never had to break/shear/crack or saw soo many nuts and bolts. The subframe mountings on the body are all rotten and need completely re-making. The moke has been stripped of everything including the Gear Change, The Sub frames, The seats, the windscreen, the guiding poles for the canvas roof and the petrol tank. The petrol tank should have been an easy job of removing some bolts and dropping the cover However the Under seal is actually a tar used on wooden stumps and made all the bolts and nuts seize to one another. Also some of these bolts have been bent out of place, it funny actually, the bent bolts follow a line of destruction along the bottom of the car, starting with bent body work, dented Extension box and scratched underseal. Now everything is off, its a case of getting it up to the Coachworks for the welding to commence. I rang them Monday of Last week, and they were meant to have the builders in that week, and to ring back next week (Today). I rang today and have been told the builders are in this week, and to ring on Friday to see were we stand. This is a huge Knock for the deadline of May 18th.
That not me!
So glad to get rid of that ugly strip of metal to protect the electrics, SOO ugly!
Just got off the Phone to the Coachworks and there STILL having building work done!! GGGGRRRRRRRR. So another week added to the build time, its gonna be tight getting this done by London 2 Brighton!!
I've actually separated the Transmission and Clutch from the engine, which was a bit of a job.
Just had Mr,Seymour, A good friends father who's ex British Leyland, round to have a look at the Moke, specially the engine, he was extremely helpful and am very thankful for his advise and time. It's pretty good news! the engine is fine apart from a couple of tweaks, couple of oil seals, Need to emery paper part of the crank shaft to get rid of some bumps from a moving flywheel. The drain plug needs replacing as the current one is pretty poor!
The arm that comes out of the bell housing, has seized up, and probably due to poor adjustment. An incorrect nut was on the end as well. All in all he seemed very happy with the condition of the car and engine.
He looked at under the pistons and they were fine, and was impressed with how good nick the bores are in. He also checked the oil pressure relief valve, and that was fine. Im very happy with the outcome of the visit!! he also offered to help with the petrol pump and the Dynamo!
Rang the coachworks again, and they still have the builders in!!!! Tim told me to ring back in 2 weeks and if im lucky it'll be done. This has really shortened the time available till London to Brighton.
Worked out, that i will need to get the whole car reassembled once back from the coachworks, in 2 weeks.
New parts arrive today, including the cylinder head, it looks gorgeous!
Taken apart the clutch arm, and the plunger throwout plate still wont budge. The Clevis pin was also stuck solid, so that needed some "Gentle Persuasion" but finally moved!!
The Plunger is now over at Nick Seymours Avon engineering works, were they are going to press it out with Hydraulics!
Did six little jobs yesterday that have been on my mind a little. Manged to get the remains of the knuckle joints out of Upper suspension arms the arms them selves look good, just do with a clean up, file down and a little paint. Removed the Balls from the rear trumpets, they were harder than the front ones.
Decided although only oneof the differential oil seals were leaking i was going to replace both for preventative measures. Lucky i did, as i took the other housing off the oil seal had actually split in half!
Removing the oil seals from the output drives, was just a case of pure brute strength! but finally i managed to pop them out, and with a sigh of relief i can tell you!
The Plunger is back they managed to press it out.
I have just spent another 300 odd quid at mini spares on new parts i've worked out there's over 110 new parts going on the moke!! Yikes!
Really good news, had absolutely loads of new parts arrive today. important parts for the suspension and all the new seals and gaskets for the engine.
I have also put an order in for several pains and products to bring the Cast iron back to standard!
The coachworks have finally got rid of the builders, and the moke if all goes to plan should have work started on Wednesday morning.
Things are starting to move on.
Feeling a little bit better about the getting her ready for London to Brighton!
Had to find a new welder for the car, and he is very busy so has told me i have to clear up any problem areas with a scraper and a blow torch. He is lending me a small torch as the on i have is to big! the moke also needs to have its entire wiring loom and fuse box taken out, a job i was'nt hoping for.
Here are some pics of the old tar underseal, that in places has to be removed, aswell as jet washed (im trying to fix that now with a long hose pipe)
The pictures also make clearer the front subframe support problems!
Alright well the news is i have had to change the bodywork plans, and have found a man who is willing to do the work. However he wants me to b actively involved. So for starters i have to prep the car, so removing the underseal by hand with a heat and a scraper, and wire brushing. He also wants everything to be taken off and i mean EVERYTHING! i am glad he wants me to be involved in some of the body work, as i am eager to learn how to weld etc.
Well, been a little busy today with the old moke! Removed the Handbrake, License plate, Steering Column and rack. I also have scaped away more underseal with a heat gun. I have also been busy with the drill with a wire brush attachment, and ofcourse the petrol diesel mix as a substitute for White spirit!
From the pictures, you can tell i have wire brushed the areas to be welded or are particularly rusty, the other areas mostly centrally have jsut been scraped. The bodywork export said this would be the best way to do it.
Had a little difficulty with the Lower suspnsion arm and am still a littl confused as to what bushes are needed, as well as how to get that shaped bolt out of the way.
My london to Brighton Ticket arrived today, aswell as some paints from Moss europe.
Thats the shaped bolt, do i just screw the nut back on and hammer that to get it off?
Hiya, well ive taken out all of the wirring loom, that was a time consuming job, as well as removing all the trimmings such as the console Lights, rubbers and the remains of the fuel hydraulics. Most of the pictures are going to be off the wirring loom, need to keep them somewere safe for reference.
Going to start again on the removal of the underseal tomorrow, also finally got the bits for the water jet wash so i'll be using that tomorrow!
Just Been working on that underseal, its real hard work to get off! jetwashed the car aswell to get rid of some of th mud! and i cant get the bloody Wiper motor off, theres a thing on the end that is stuck!
I feel a bit more positive mentally, i have for the 1st time on the project actually started to make an item of the moke better!
I've put the first layer of Rust buster on the front subframe, and have just jet washed the rear ones, ready for the prep work before that gets painted!
So i'll let my pics do the talking, i've also just put a huge order in with Mini Spares, so im hoping to have 90% of the parts with me by the end of the week!!!
I wreckon the rear subframe is in really good nick, as it still ahs some original black paint, and not to much visible rust!
So guys, im feeling happier, what you wreckon?
Well, i've put the first coat on the Rear subframe, and ive done the top half of the front subframes second coat. I have also started to refurbish some of the other suspension parts, we can see her parts of the lower front suspension like the tie bars.
Im having the moke Sand blasted tomorrow and primed, hope to get her back by friday! ill be putting some pictures on, of taking her tomorrow evening!
Since the last update Ive managed to put on the top side layer of paint to both subframes, and have been doing little jobs, like removing remains of knuckle joints, and getting out those pesky top arm bearings. (of wich i have developed a method, and will be posting on the technical section)
ive had the Radiator reconditioned, and it looks superb, aswell as the Starter motor and Dynamo. Ive had the fuel pump tested and its still got a load of life left in it!!
The Solenoid on the other hand was so rusted and moldy it wasn't making a connection, so that had to be replaced!
Here are the pics:
Few more pics, of the sand blastings and the electrics
Well havnt done that much unfortunuatly due to illness and such. Front suspnsion bar swivel hubs reassembled, rear suspnsion bar wheel hubs assembled now. Actually the rear was a pain, ended up having to adapt the cone compression tool, and compress the rear cone!!!
Engine is now mated back with the gear box, and oil seal renewed, aswell as coreplugs onto the clutch tomorrow.
Hope this is right wasnt sure entirely of the order of all those washers.
Compression tool on the front, notice the wood to preserve paint, and reduce stress on the tool.
Rear compression adaption!!!
Certainly glad to get this stuff out of my box!!
Ok, having a bout of Insomnia, so decided i would do an update. The rear Subframe is now completely built up, and although not photographed, has wheels on it. The Front subframe, now has an engine mounted upon it, Yipee. The engine has finally been put back together i had some serious difficulties in getting the clutch to centralise, so i enlisted the help of a family friend, Mr. Torode, who has been doing this for years, and needless to say had everything running ship shape in a matter of minutes!! my savior. Thanks alot for all his help. he also recomended looking at the timing chain, and replacing an oil seal there that i didnt even know about. so hopefully she'll only leak a little bit.
The engine, has had its first coat of paint, as obviously seen in the photographs, a certain amount of work still needs to be done, and i dont recommend my artistic skills to anyone.
The pictures of the body show just a fraction of the work that has been done, and i hope to have that back at the end of the week.
But will it make its MOT on th 8th of May!!!!!
Ok well, i have seen the body today, it has been painted, and looks amazing better than i ever imagined!! sorry no pics though!
I have added most of the things to the front subframe, ready for the body to drop over. Also looks like i have put the clutch arm round the wrong way, anyone confirm? if so...uber embarrased!
Had a few problems with the radiator, hope to get that on and the exhaust manifold by the end of monday!
Well, Finally finished the Front Subframe.....AND GOT THE BODY BACK!!!!
yay, hopfully shuld have both subframes in her tomorrow!!
Thank you all SOOO much for the comments.
Well guys, ive been putting my back into it today, with some pretty impressive results. I think pictures, are the best way to show the achievments.
The front Subframe was'nt as bad as i was expcting, had some difficulties lining up the front Nearside bolt, but managed in the end. Also had to re-tap were one of the tower bolts go in to!
The back however was a real pain in the a**, took so long, and had to re-adjust sooo many times, but got there in the end!!
So what ya, Wreckon?
Ok, slow and steady today. Fitted the Petrol Tank Front Shockers, Radiator top plate, thermostat housing, Gaskt on rocker box, Top Engine mount (Wich was another huge jub, should of been simple but couldnt get the rubbers to fit. Got some new wheels, you can see them on the back.
Ok, Progress is not as fast as i wanted, little Down, but you know.
Front wiring loom is in (Semi), and before anyone says anything, i know its in a state, and Yes, imreplacing it at a later date, ive really run out of money!!! also i think im gonna have to be asking some questions in the Tech section about it!
Ok the brake lines are done and so is the clutch. Bad news is that the Oil warning sensor has broken, went to plug it into the loom, the metal plug just fell off. I think im going to ask in the Technical section how to get it off, doesnt appear to have a flat edge.
Shocks are on the back, and the front Castle nut is talked up and Pinned! Started on the gear selector, the roll pin is half in, but got a bit fde up with, so will finish driving that in at a later date.
Feeling a bit down, coud'nt bare to work on her today, and finished early yesterday!
Wish i hadnt of put a deadline on the job! Grrrrr...
Yer yesterday bled the Clutch, fitted all the brake lines properly, did the handbrake cables i think thats it!
I hope i dont wake up tomorrow feeling so depressed about it!
Re-booked MOT to the 13th from the 8th, i needed to the prssure was taking its toll on me!
Today started by yet again another attempt to bleed the brakes, and yet more leaks were discovered. Had to get various new parts to fix them, but in the end and fingers crossed they are bled! Tried the fuel pump as well, didnt get any thing from her not a dickie bird!! Tried tapping her to get the contacts to move NOTHING!!
so...i rebuilt all the elctrics inside and finally she worked!
Then as a morale exercise more than anything i had a go at firing the beast up for the 1st time.
The video below is a quick summary of what happened,
the seal at the bottom of the float bowl, had become knackered so had to take the carb off and nick the seal from the HS2 i have. Petrol wnt everywere and i mean everywere.
Just kept turning over and over, soo.. had to chck if there was a spark as you can see from pictures before the wiring loom is hardly impressive. Turns out that i hadnt plugged in the wire coming from the Dizzy, so there was no spark between the points.
It fired, pretty well, until trying again and it stalled, and smoke came through the carb!!!
She was running, I know adjustments have to be made on the idle speed.
So, ive now got to Put the air filter on, and the exhaust so i can fiddle with the mixture etc. The clutch needs adjusting so havnt actaully put her in gear yet. also i need to know how the throttle attaches so i can do that.
But yer i dont think she sounds to bad, what you wreckon??
Ok so as some of you might have guest she is only running on 3 cylinders!|
So im gonna check the electrics later, hopefully just a gunged up spark plug or ht lead not in properly
Right she's firing on all Cylinders, an HT Lead wasnt plugged in all the way.
The gear change problem is starting to scare me. 2nd and 4th dont engage, and are really hard to move.
Oh and ive put the rear lights on, no bulbs though!!!! Doh!
Well theres been alot of work done the irritating jobs, the wiring is just sooooo bad...cant wait to be getting a new wiring loom when i have the money, it took a whole day to the indicators! but they work now and so do all the rear lights, aswell as seatbelts and seats. Also i drove her round a concrete pad.......
Shes a BEAST!
yer so the photos dont do the hours of work justice!!
Will it be ready!!!!!
Im getting worried!!
Got my hooter working today, and fitted the cover to the license plate light.
The horn needed all connections cleaning, all Earths sorted, and a fuse!
Well i have finished her!!
Its now up to an MOT'able status, i had to take her through the village to "Test" her!!! Had some looks, things i did note though:
- Mixture, VERY RICH! exhaust sooty after only a little drive, aswell as mini backfire once.
- Clutch, Slipping at hills even small inclines
- Flat at high RPM, couldnt get her higher than 30Mph.
Probs mixture of the 2 above causing that
- Whinning from gearbox, or is it that minis do just have a REALLY REALLY high pitch whine!
Well i am very happy and it feels amazing.
MOT tomorrow will let you know how it went.
NO PHOTOS, my camera Broke, the screen has naffed, still takes pics though so i might try a fw tomorrow "Blind"
Kindst Regards and thanks for everyons support!
Ive got a bad feeling, the MOT tester was not happy about certain things within 2 minutes of seeing her!
Also the back electrics started playig up just before and the carburttor was out of control just revving all over the place!
Fixed the lecy, and told the Tester to do the carb.
I did take some pictures! needs a Clean a few other little jobs done, but i still wreckon pretty good.
Ok just had a phone call from the garage!
its failed on several points, there gonna do as much as they can to get hre through.
Soem of the things mentioned include:
Rear Wheel Bearings - Brand new though?
Brake line clips?
Melted throttle cable! the cable was brand new.
Some brake line bracket in the bulk head!
and other things!
I think a member of this forum probably Rosslin, went to take a look at her, and the garage was not impressed!
sorry, but nothing todo with me!
apparently it is going to be hit and miss if i make London to Brighton now!
so im REEEAALLLY REEAAALLY Depressed!
Cheers taz for the suport
ive got an MOT certificate, now need some road tax, and todo some final adjustments!
Pictures to Follow at some point in the Foreseeable future!
Replaced the Steering rack at great effort!!
Still have to: Bleed Brakes, tighten 2 subframe bolts, Tighten Front Offside Dome Nut, Re-attach all wheels, Re-attach both front Shocks put on new pedal rubber.
Gonna go out now in her for a bit of fun!!
Well, been fiddling with the timing and have rebuilt the carb again! finally got her idling smoothly....
However I think the oil burning may have become a bit more serious,
Don't know what the MOT man is going to have to say about that in August! - knowing him not much
Well someone asked for some pictures so here we go:
creeping onto a slumbering Kentish lane
However back to work and time for her to earn her keep..
and finally my favourite
No. 8 Tappet adjuster nut went, on the drive to get some wheels...Massive miss fire, sorted now...been meaning to sort out the tappets as they've been causing me problems, got a nice set of press steel rockers to go on.
Things to do in the next month or 2.
Get a new petrol cap seal
New Dzus fasteners for petrol panel
Tighten up and sort out the washer jet
tighten grub screw on washer spindle
Got a couple of bits for fitment before I do the annual adjustments and then take her for an MOT in the next couple of weeks!
some Dzus fastners, that should stop the rattling from the top of the batter cover, FINALLY!!!
Correct cork type petrol cap seal, this will avoid the embarrasing difficulties of getting the petrol cap on and off at the moment, using my temporary MOT rubber alternative bodge.
So whats left
Adjust brakes all round
Adjust clutch, the biting point appears to have moved all the way to the bottom of the pedal, I imagine the stop on the clutch cover has moved in.
Gap spark plugs
Tappet clearance adjustment
Change the oil (it currently has universal tractor oil in at the moment - nice!)
Change oil Filter
Fit new copper washer to sump plug, try and get rid of that little leak
Right MOT TOMORROW!!
Adjust brakes all round Done
Adjust clutch, the biting point appears to have moved all the way to the bottom of the pedal, I imagine the stop on the clutch cover has moved in Done
Gap spark plugs
Tappet clearance adjustment
Naaa, they seem ok
Change the oil (it currently has universal tractor oil in at the moment - nice!)
Yup Comma Classic installed
Change oil Filter
Fit new copper washer to sump plug, try and get rid of that little leak
Yes but still leaks may need further tightening!
Install Dzus Fasteners.....oops!
Install Petrol cap seal
Inevitably the full beam failed this morning, so had to go on a frantic fault tracing expedition! all sorted
now at the Garage! Fingers crossed
Passed, but has picked up an electrical gremlin, so its stopped sparking, I think its a broken wire between the regulator and the coil power!
Thank you very much!! Well I've been out and about in her today! didn't miss a heartbeat, notice that under breaking she likes to veer offside, but that just adds character!
Also got my free road tax, the only bargain left in motoring!
Went to Car Builder Solutions and picked up an outside car cover and some wire!
The car cover is £35 - Waterproof, 3 layered, breathable and fits quite well!
Ahem, there's been a few changes.
Thank you very much, it's nice to have something in there that doesn't burn so much oil and has a bit of poke.