Turbo LS1 240z Build by sq_creations

By diyauto
( 2 )

Turbo LS1 240z Build

Compliments of sq_creations @ forums.hybridz.org


I purchased this 240z from Lason on here. It has alot of stuff I was planing to do to a 240z once I found it. I got it for a reasonable price and have a great car to start my new project.

The Borg Warner s480

The engine was in pieces when I got it. I have about 60% of the engine and I'm starting to get parts now. Below you see the bare block I am tring to piece together. Also the new Wiseco pistons, Manley rods, Melling Oil Pump, Trickflow timing set, and some used Comp Cams Valvesprings. 

I started working on the heads this week. I pulled the valvesprings out because I plan to upgrade them. The head wasn't as clean as I hoped after being hot-tanked so I pulled the valves out and started scrubing. Then I decided the casting need to be smoothed out a bit a the valve could stand to be lapped. I have one head cleaned up but still have the other to do. 


Thanks for the input. I dropped off the rotating assembly to get balanced today. I'll take the springs over and have them checked before I assemble the head. Hoping to put the short block together this weekend. 

Some of the other stuff going on. I have decided to pull my Aem Ems off of my integra and it is now back on a chipped ecu. So I am going to build a harness to run the ls1 on a 1040 box. I know alot of the mustang guys use ls1 coils on there ems' and my box is already modded for hall effect sensors. I'm drawing up the plans and will post them once I get it all sorted. 

Because of this I have a msd 6ls for sale if any one needs it.


Thanks Lason I appreciate it. I'm trying to do her right. I'll hit you up with some questions when I get a little further along. 

I got to rotating stuff back from the machine shop so I'm hoping to get it the short block assembled this weekend.


Thanks for the comments guys. I got all the bearing clearances measured and 3 sets of the rings gap'd so far. I'll try to get pictures up soon.


Here's an update of whats been going on. 

I finished cleaning up the heads and put them together. My Cometic Head gaskets, TCI Flex plate, and oem damper came in too. Now the rotating assembly will get balanced.

After mocking up the truck pan on the motor and measuring the bottom of the pan compared to the motor mounts I determined I only had 2 inches of ground clearance with out the weight of the motor in the car. This would probably rest the motor on the ground once installed. I picked up this corvette oil pan with the idea that I would have to cut off the wings and weld it up but I think I might be able to keep it as is. It is 5 inches deep compared to 9 inches of the truck pan. I do not plan on running the exhaust under the car and it looks like the wings will clear the frame.

I started measuring my clearances and gapping my rings. 

Final putting it together. At this point I have the pistons in. I'm still waiting for my lifters to show up(3wks so far). GMPP/Galles (local dealer) are totally screwing me right now. Then I can put the heads on and measure for pushrods. 


I got the Z06 cam, trick flow double timing set, melling oil pump installed. I had to grind a little on the front cover to get it to fit but its on now along with the water line fittings. I also started on the wiring harness.


Vette Powered said

Wait a minute! This thing is going to be a street car??!!

It will see some street action but alot of track action. The car is on drag radials. There is a local competition (that I hope is still around next season) That requires you to make a 30 mile drive to the track then race. I'll take it to work once and a while too. hehe. 

there is the newest update:

I put the windage tray, crank sensor, and oil pan on. I was putting the flex plate on when I discovered the motor was hanging up on something internally. I have been checking as I go along so allot of cursing in sued. After rechecking the windage tray and disassembling it. I discovered that the crank sensor was hitting where the machine shop had welded in the weight when the crank was balanced. I ground it down and now everything is happy again.

The first customizing hurtle has arrived. The bracket for the alternator I have was intended for an aluminum ls1 block and doesn't fit the 6.0 iron block. The iron block is missing the location for a bolt I have labeled 2 and a I needed to drill and tap location 1. I was able to modify the bracket I had by adding another arm going to a bolt location on the head. 


rsicard said

sq creations: 499 Gram pistons? Dam those things are heavy. Good to see the progress with the build.

I guess they are on the heavier side. I looked up some comparisons after I saw this. I have had good luck with wiseco pistons in the past with other cars I've had. Hopefully the added weight will take the abuse better?

wiseco lists as 502grams

Arias 413grams

JE 395grams

A small update. The epic quest for lifters has come to an end. It only to 6 weeks and 2 companies to get them here but they arrived last night. I also got my intake manifold in. I hope to have a good update for you guys in day or two.


I also want to run an electric water pump to make setting up the pulley system easier, but it seems like the only ones for the LS motors are around $600.00. Way more than I'd be willing to spend. But it looks like you've got that figured out, and it should be super efficient.

More info plz.

My setup has the water pump attached to the radiator. you can see the 2 feed ports at the bottom and the 2 return ports in the opposite upper corner along with the upper vent tube port. 

Now for an update:

I got the coil brackets in and painted them along with the valve covers. I need to tap the holes for the coil bolts. I had to come up with a solution to the water crossover pipe that had been cut off. I ground flat the area, then drilled and taped for a fitting. I'm very happy with how it came out. As a last note for this entry I finally got the lifters in. Now I can put the heads on. 

skip forward

The moment I have been waiting for. I got the engine in the car. I installed the lifters and put the heads on. I got the flexplate on and now the motor is on the motor mounts. I still need to attach the torque converter. I also measured the push rods with a write up that TR posted and figured out I need 3.75 push rods. So I got those ordered. I also got the weiand intake and figured out that it wasn't going to work with my oil pressure sensor along with some negative reviews and resold it. I now have on order a GMPP single plane manifold and edelbrock elbow coming. It is similar to what the previous owner ran. I also read in gmhtp that a car gained 90hp on same boost (19psi) by switching from stock manifold. 


I have the custom engine harness pretty much done now. I just need to put it in. I got my fuel rails in the mail. They are the professional products rails. I was concerned with the internal diameter but the bore is much larger than the -8AN fittings I'm using so it should be fine. I also got the coil brackets tapped for the coil bolts. The Comp 3.75 push rods and stock rocker arms are now installed under the valve covers. I also ordered my 4inch thick 1000hp intercooler. Hopefully that is the last big purchase I need to get this thing going. 


I got my GMPP single plane intake manifold and edelbrock elbow in. I put them together and came up with a mount for the fuel rails. I still need the IM gaskets. It didn't come with any and they are not the standard ls gasket. I also got a 1/4X6X18 3/8 aluminum plate and redid the valley tray with a fitting I will run to a breather style catch can.


I laid the hood back on and it does look like it will clear. I have a hole in my hood so its really easy to see. I have to track down a stock hood now. 

My Infinity Q45 90mm Throttle body came in on Saturday. The OEM Camaro (76mm) would not fit on the Edelbrock elbow. There was a gap at the bottom. This was one of the cases were things cascaded. I bought the stock throttle body for the Weiand manifold I decide not to use after reading some reviews. Then bought the elbow to match the stock throttle body but it didn't fit. Finally I ended up back at the Q45 throttle body I wanted. What a mess right? So now that I have the Q45 T-body I have to make it fit the Edelbrock elbow. Here is how I did it.

I put the intake manifold on and hooked up and tucked the injector and coil wires out of sight. The fuel lines are all hooked up. I got the turbo mounted and the driver side header on. I'm still doing wiring on the passenger side. I also have to come up with a plan on how I'm going to run the intercooler piping.


I made a bracket to hold the intercooler and it is in its new home. Now I can start planing the piping. I'm going modify to end tanks for sure. 


No sure, soon I hope. 

I started building the intercooler piping for the car. I picked up 5 feet of straight 3 inch aluminum pipe and 2 slivers of solid 3 inch to cap the original intercooler inlets. I'm routing the pipe into the back of each end tank. I primarily used 15 degree cuts so that 2 put together the would equal 30 degrees. I did this in an attempt to keep the bends smoother. The u bend coming off of the turbo on the hot side of the intercooler is mild steel to accommodate the blow off valve flange that is steel. You will also notice in the pictures I got the rest off the exhaust installed. I also got the bumper cut and remounted.


That looks really nice. I like your mounting bracket too. I already cut up my intercooler so I'm going to stay my course. 

Alright guys I would like your input. I'm really on the fence between 2 brake set ups. 

The vented 300zx w/ toy calipers

$445 for a 10.8 inch rotor


The AZC kit

$790 for the 12.2 inch rotor

What are other higher powered z's running? Does any one know the actual weight difference? I have read that the azc need to be shimmed, do the 300zx need to be?

I found this thread so far but would still like input. 



Test fitting the hood to make sure everything clears. 

I hooked up my breather/catchcan setup. I'm running a line from each valvecover and a line from the valley cover. Two 5/8 lines and one 3/8 hose. I also hooked up the tps sensor and wired in one of my sqc boost solenoids as a idle air control valve. In an attempt to keep the engine bay looking cleaner I'm running 3 lines off the bottom of the edelbrock elbow. They go to the IACV, intake air temp, & blow off valve.

I got the new blow off valve flange/pipe welded, painted and installed. Here is a picture of the ams-1000 boost controller solenoids. I just finished reading the manual and this thing is wicked!

The coolant lines are installed. I was chasing my tail on this one. I had one line I couldn't install because the compressor housing was in the way. I pulled it off, installed the line then couldn't get it back on. Finally I loosened the turbo bracket and undid the exhaust. I was so sad. But I got it all in there now. 2 steps back to get 1 step forward. It's almost there now. I got the engine oil in, the trans fluid is good to go. I need to get the intercooler back on, fill the coolant, gas tank, check the rear diff, and hookup a couple more wires inside the car.


I haven't decided what to do about the hood. I want to get some more safety equipment before I start on cosmetics.


Thanks everyone. 

I got the intercooler and piping back on and they look great. I fill the coolant, got the last few wires inside the car hooked up. I also had some fun with sheet metel. I made a battery box to hold my Odyssey PC680 battery and some air diverters in the front grill area. 

Oh yeah.. It Runs



I decide to relocate the coil packs. I built custom brackets for them and I'm using caprice lt1 plug wires. I am also rerouting some the the engine bay wiring and fixing some leaks I found. I plan on wrapping the hot pipes with DEI Header kit to help battle the heat too.


Alxxpress said

What did you do for motor mounts? Very freaking cool "street car".

The mounts are f-body but they have metal weld to them to make them solid. It also has the jc kit.


now for an update:

I started rerouting the wiring in the engine bay to avoid heat and clean up the appearance. Hear are some before and after pictures. 





The transmission was leaking so I had the guys a Mikes Transmission 505-797-9444 go threw it. They found bad seals, damaged pump gear, and the cause of most of it was the converter wasn't fitting properly. The pilot on the converter was modified and fits like a glove now. The trans looks great. I can't wait to take it for spin. I also go the headers wrapped and put back in along with a transmission scatter shield and drive shaft loop


It was a mad dash to get the car ready for the sqc dyno day bbq this past weekend. I had a lot of customer cars along with a faulty trans cooler fitting to deal with. I took the friday before the show off and finished up the car and got the tune up drivable. I made it to the show with 30 miles on the motor. We dynoed 45 cars that day and I decide it would be smarter to put some more miles on her and change the oil before I put it on the rollers. I will get it on there the week after valentines day. Here are some shots of it all together when I drove it to work yesterday. 


My buddy is letting me use his go pro camera. Here is a video on the way to work this morning. Couple of 1/3 throttle pulls.


15~20 or when I run out of fuel. which ever comes first. lol. 

Hoping to get on the dyno thursday. Waiting to here back. I know they are trying to get there shop car ready for some test runs in phoenix this weekend. 

Here is another video that just popped up.


I’m very happy to be alive right now. The Z burst in to flames last night. The injector on cylinder 8 popped out enough that it sprayed fuel that ignited. The night started off with the dyno acting up. The first few pulls I did would not show any graph. Scottie figured out the speed sensor was being cranky and got it working. So I started doing some tuning. Now the car would hit about 5 psi on the street on wastegate. My past experience is that most cars will be 2~3 psi lower on the dyno. This is my first time playing with a car that has a glide in it on the dyno. I was surprised that the car would only build 0~1psi of boost. After a few runs I got it up too 380whp on like 0.5 psi @ 6500. I think the glide might be robbing some power but what ever. I notice that I need more base fuel pressure after reviewing the logs. I thought I was at 45 but with the car at ldle it was only 30. My pump should be good for 120 so I took the base pressure to 60. I figure at full boost it would be no more that 80psi of fuel pressure. Well get the map dialed in again and then turned up the boost. I went to do a pull and as the boost came on I heard a noise and saw a blanket of fire flowing over the the windshield like a river. Its kind of a blur but I jumped out of the car hit the kill switch and got to the extinguisher and put out the fire. The whole engine bay was a blaze. The room was filled with yellow powder. I went out of the room but saw more flames so I rushed back in to put them out. Now at this point Scottie had left earlier to get us some dinner so I was alone. The visibility was that of a dense fog and the second time coming out of the dyno room I felt myself blacking out so I made the call 911 to see if I had just poisoned myself. As the call progressed I came back too. I had just deplete all my oxygen. About that time Scottie rolled back up. He total helped me call down. Thanks bro you’re a good friend. The end result was like 420 @ 4000 on 3~4 psi. Now its time to rebuild the harness and see else needs to be replaced. I know I need stronger brackets holding the fuel rails. I’m going to go clean up the mess today.


Thanks for all the well wishes and support. I'm still kinda freaked out. I know I'm going to have to redo the engine harness. It looks like the throttle cable is f-ed. I'm sure ill find more once I dig into it. 

Here is a shot of the problem. You can see the bracket in the background got tweaked up. In hind site not the best designed mount. I have an idea on how I will make much stronger mounts. That is all the o-ring came out to create the blaze.

Here are some shots before the dyno. I put the car on the corner scales to see how much it weighed. 2608 with a full tank. 2827 with me in it. I want to get coilovers in the front so I can adjust the corner balance. 


Thanks John. How have you and niki been. I saw your kids are getting big on fb. It would be awesome if you ran that setup in you car too. I need to get back up to co. I miss you guys. 

So This is what a 150.00 sticker looks like. 

I'm so pumped. It is cert'd to 8.50's now. I need a nhra license.


An update finally. Its been kinda of busy lately. There is a local event coming up this weekend that motivated me. I got all the wiring cleaned up. I built new fuel rail brackets, blacked out the intercooler, and installed a new wideband and boost gauge. Unfortunately I bought a new gm 3bar map sensor only to find out its a 1bar. I'm going to band aid it with a honda map sensor (good for 10psi) for the weekend until I can get another 3bar. 

I also painted the garage. I want to do the floors too. I will have to let them dry for 3ish days. That is going to be hard. 

I still need to install the brake kit I got from silvermine and I'm building a new catch can.


The car did well. I was the only 240z. There was a z32 that showed up too. I misjudged the distance I could go on e85 and ran out at one point. But other than that the car did good. I got the car up to 9~10psi at one point. It seems to break up a little. I have the tr6 plugs gap at .025 which should be good for the boost I'm running. It may need more dwell or it might be a coil pack. No fires though knock on wood. It pulls like a freight train. Here are some photo's:

more pictures


It was a race around the city. 6 stops along the way. You get a poker card at each stop and then play your hand at the end. It was fun. 

It got my garage all painted now. The next project for the z is the front brakes.


The transmission was still leaking from the front seal so after some research I found a better solution to mate the powerglide/converter to the lq4. 

It is a factory GM hub adapter.

Mike went threw the tranny again and put a new front seal.

Unfortunately I had to use a factory flexplate too.

We also put in a TCI flexplate sheild for some added protection.

Big thanks to Mike and Josh, you guys are awesome.

I got some new toys. I order a Simpson parachute with Competition Engineering's mounting kits. I also have a RCI window net to install. 

Coil #1 had been intermitten and I have seen good results with these newer 4 gen truck coils. 

I built some better straps to hold the front lip and close up the front gap a bit. I ended up taking about an inch off the front block off plates after the adjustment. I think it looks alot better now. 

I need to pick up some sheet metal so I can enclose the fuel cell per nhra rules. Then I can take this thing to the track. I have a lot stuff to install now.


Thank you very much Eric. Great name by the way. The oil pan fits great. I can fit my hand between the frame and pan. I did have to swing the motor into place when installing it though. The fuel rail has a third brace on either side holding it to the intake elbow now. I could lift the motor from the rails now. lol (maybe not).

It was really great meeting fellow z owners and in such an inviting atmosphere. I hope to attend many more meets. You can come by whenever. Weekends are best. I'll pm you my number. 

Now for a small update. First up is a video I did last week. Its of me testing the transbrake out. 

I finally installed the brake kit from silverminemotors.com. It has vented and sloted 300zx rotors with custom adapter plates and toyota 4 piston calipers. It is a really nice looking kit. 



I also picked up some wheel spacers and some extended lugs. I went to oreilly auto and after some trial and error came up with some dorman 610-320 studs. 


Finally got some numbers for you guys. I took it to the dyno last thursday and put down 511whp & 454wtq on 8psi. I want to run 20psi. I'm not able to go over 8 psi yet. I'm trying to figure that out currently. I hit the same boost with the ams-1000 set to add 7psi or 30psi to the spring pressure. I want to see if a small a/r exhaust housing is available. 

I took it to the track friday night and got three passes in. All three were 11.1 @ 132~133mph. I haven't setup the 2 step yet but on the t-brake it would hit about 4 psi then ramp up to 8 at 6500 then hold 8 threw 2nd gear. Ams-1000 ebc is still set to add 20psi to the top port on the wastegate. I'm pretty happy overall with my first shake down passes. I drove it 45min's to the track, clicked off three passes and drove 45min's home. Nothing broke, the car went straight and mph is about what I expect. 2 tenths would have been nice though. lol.


Thanks bro!

An picture update:

In an attempt to meet all the nhra rules I was told I needed a firewall to separate the fuel cell from the driver. This is what I came up with. It is made of 20 gauge (min 24 is required). It is sealed with rtv in side too. 

I installed a new tachometer that reads off a spark plug wire. The autometer would only go as low as 2 rev per cycle and I needed a 1 rev per cycle to get it to read. I went with the smaller tach to offset it. Now I can see it threw the steering wheel. 

I finally installed the window net too. It came out nice if I do say so. 

Here are some numbers finally. I was only able to get it up to 8 psi so far. It put down 511whp and 454wtq on the dyno so far. I want to try a smaller a/r exhaust housing and eventually a different torque converter.

I went out the the track and clicked of 3 pass at 11.1 and 133mph. The car did great and it's consistent. I still want to wire up some stuff to the aem for a 3 step. On the t-brake I'm launching on about 3psi but it takes a while to build boost.

Here is a shot on the way out to the track with Aj in his 10sec neon. 


I'm having some trouble getting my t6 S480 to spool up so this is what I came up with. It used a wrx wastegate I had laying around which will have its own boost controller so I can adjust when the flapper opens. The divided housing was originally a 1.32 ar. So I figure its now .66 before the flapper opens now.


Well I tried out the quick spool on the street and the dyno. It didn't work to well for me. It ended up only hitting about 4psi with the quick spool closed and the flapper never opened (should have around 12~14psi). I disconnected the flapper to let stay open and the boost went back to 8psi. This was all done with the wastegate disconnect. I even went a step further and covered the outlet of the wastegate with aluminum foil to confirm the wastegate wasn't venting. At this point I have decided to dig into the car again. I plan on redoing all the pre-turbo stuff. Starting with cast manifolds and running smaller 2.5 inch piping to the turbo. Also thinking about selling this turbo to go with a t4 78~80mm turbo.

Thanks John. Your car is moving too. I wish I could get out of the hole like that. What is wrong with your fire suit? Single layer?


240zRacer- My goal is mid 9's. 

An Update:

It looks like the wastegate was a limiting factor. I blocked it off with a metal plate and I now hits 18psi. I took it to the dyno again and laid down 695hp and 595tq sae corrected. I also tried out the spool valve again. It works! The car will now hit 5 psi on the foot break. I plan on trying co2 in to the ams1000 boost controller to see if I can achieve the same results as blocking off the wastegate so I have some control. I am very excited to see what I will do once the track opens up again. 

Ignore the spike in torque, the dyno was haveing issues with the tach signal. It didn't make 800+ torque. It was more like 595 when you scroll the curser over peak power. To give you an idea of the power band; the power and torque intersect at 5200 and redline is 6600. 

here is a picture of the spool valve.

and a dyno comparison with (blue) and without (red) the spool valve

I finally got some time to work on the car again. I Fabricated and installed the parachute mount and bracket. 

Mocking up the bars

Welded in some gussets

Under the car between the rear axle and rear sheet metal. The trans cooler bolts over it. 

Now with it all mounted up.

I still need to mount the cable and release handle inside the car.


I wanted to get the rpm but dyno was having trouble keeping the tach signal that night. That is why there is a random spike in torque on the graph too. Thanks for the responses. I really want to try it out at the track. Looks like its going to open in march.


Here is a video of the dyno run. I love listing to the turbo at full spool.


I'm working on some projects in an attempt to get ready for the drag strip opening next month. I finished up the parachute release handle and routed the cable.

I built a heat shield for the turbo hot side and for the fan controller / relays I have behind the passenger side head light. I also put a flex pipe in the crossover tube to the turbo in an attempt to relieve stress on the headers. 

Finally for this update I installed a dash cap. It is so nice not having to look at the cracks in the dash any more. 


I'm still working on some projects to get ready for the drag strip next month. I mounted a air tank and regulator for the ams1000 boost controller. I will try c02 later on but I think I need a better regulator first. 

I got a 71 front bumper installed and cleaned up. Had to trim the air block off panels in the front but it all fits well now. 

I also built a fan shroud for the radiator. Should make it a little more efficient.


Very Nice yessir. That was one of the turbo's I was considering. I still am actually. I also am interested in the new efr turbo's I think the 68mm (the biggest) will be to small though. 

The track opens this saturday so I will hopefully have good news after that. I'm very excited.


I'm running custom tubular manifold. They might be up for sale soon. 

Update from this weekend. 

Well the day at the track didn't go as I hoped. But that's racing right. I can't remember if it was Aj or Erik that said it but "well you built a supra!" The car wouldn't build boost on the line to save my life. Even sitting on the t-brake it would only go to 2psi. Half track the car came alive and was a total monster. It trapped 138 mph but its still in the 11's with horrible 2.1 60fts. Testing the car a couple nights previously it would build 5psi without the t-brake. I'm thinking it was the cooler air at this point. Now I have to come up with a plan to fix the launch issue. Higher stall, N20, or maybe a turbo kit redesign. Better start saving my pennies lol.



I started a thread to get some feedback on my setup on ls1tech. This update is the result of that feed back. I'm trying to optimize my setup. I order a billet ptc 5500 stall converter. I also redesigned the turbo kit. My goals for the turbo kit were to get the turbo away for the t-body, make it a truly divided all the way to the turbine housing, down size from 3 inch to 2.5 inch crossover for quicker spool. I also wanted to be able to check my spark plugs without having to pull the manifolds and make it easier to swap a cam later on. I think I might even be able to add a filter now.

I still have to remount the coil packs and make new spark plug wires.


Sqc Tuning sponsored and hosted a local Import/Sport Compact Race. This was the debut of the new setup. I drove it up and down the street to put it on the trailer and headed to the track. Untested and I setup the 2 step in the pits, I took it for my first qualifying pass. Did a good burn out, footbraked into the beams hit the t-brake, boost came on instantly, lights came down car took off but the back end came out on me. I let off got it straight and got back in it. Clicked off a 10.7, Alright! The 2nd pass was the first round of eliminations. I got the left lane this time and repeated my process but left at about 80% throttle on the t-brake and got a 1.5 60ft. Run went smooth and clicked off 9.56. WOOT 2 years in the making!! Run #3 back in the right lane. I went 100% out the hole, backend came out again and I got another 10.7 but won the round. Run 4 and final round I'm up against one of my guys Mr. Neon. I give him lane choice. I get the left lane again. I launch on 80% throttle and pull a 1.6 60ft and get a 9.6 @ 147mph to Aj's 10.7 (his personal best to date - great job bro!). I won the All Out Power Adder class. 

Video Thread


Yeah I went to truck manifolds and 2.5 crossover. They go in divided now. No more spool valve. With the ams1000 set the same I picked up 6psi.


The driver side fits perfect. The passenger one took a lot of hacking to make work. Which is the opposite of what I was thinking going into it. haha. I didn't cut the car at all though.


Hit the rollers again on the dyno day I hosted. The car laid down 770whp and 703wtq.


Thanks guys. I'm not really sure what air dam it is. It came with the car. It's pretty beat up at this point and is on my wish list of things to update.


You guys make me feel better about it. I was kinda down because it wasn't in the 800's. Thanks!

It's funny you say that because the night I ran the 9's there was a 1000whp supra running low 11's. haha.


I raced in a local event on saturday called No Bull. I was hoping to do some license passes but still need a engine diaper first. I ended up runing in a 10.2 index class. I turned to boost down to 14~15psi and thought that was enough to hit 10.2's. I got one test pass and it ran 10.1 @ 140 but was spinning a bit. I lower the tire pressure for the first round and lined up against Nitrous SBC Vega. I didn't realize were on a pro tree. Opps. I tried to chase him down and broke out with a 9.99 @ 141. I need more seat time If I want to bracket race. I did one more run at 20 psi and ran 9.52 @145 with a 1.5 60ft. I pretty happy getting the car more dialed in. I beat my best et with 4 less psi.


My car is 40seconds in. 


I took the z out one last time before my winter project starts. Here are some photos taken at a local meet. The neon in some of the picture is one that I tuned and helped build. It has run a best of 10.25 @ 145mph so far. My winter project consists of shaving/cleaning up the engine bay and repainting it. I also plan on adding a bigger cam while the motor is out. Right now I'm thinking speedinc's tu2 cam. If funds allow I would like to change over to a air to water intercooler too. I'll keep you guys posted.

My Iat's were around 190 at the end of the track. I have considered Meth injection as well as giggle gas. Nothing is ruled out yet. I was hoping by doing a A2W I could run a inlet pipe to the turbo from the front grill area. I would have to put the radiator at more of an angle to do it though.


I started my winter projects. I pulled the motor and discovered there was some damage the the zo6 cam and one of the lifters. The #3 rod bearing was not looking good either. I decide that I want to rebuild up the motor with gen IV top end (ls3 heads) this next time but its not in the budget just yet. So for now I picked up a 5.3 LM7 to play with while I gather parts for the 6.0L. I started shaving the engine bay to get it ready for a new coat of paint before the motor goes in. I also got a swing out bar kit for christmas. So I got that installed. Should be easier to get in and out of now. I got a new 30psi boost gauge and msa headlight covers that will be going in soon. 

Continuing shaving the engine bay. These shots are of the fire wall. 

I wanted to move the engine harness behind the intake manifold to make it less obvious.

I got a nice grommet of a honda harness to fit.

I cut out some plugs and got them welded in.

Where the wiper motor plug cam threw. I don't have wipers though. So I pulled the motor and sealed up the top. 

I will be down to 2 holes passing threw the fire wall now. 

I still have some more holes to fill on the driver side.


I still haven't pulled the heads off the 6.0L But I expect the guide to be broken. The roller part of the lifter is smooth in the center but scalloped on the edge on both sides. So it must have been rotating abit. I would love for the 5.3 to out do the 6.0L. It would be awesome and depressing at the same time. haha. 

Another update:

Finishing up the engine bay. Here are some shots of the bay in primer. At this point I had a week to get the motor in and interior back in for a event I wanted the car at. 

Fast forward a bit to some finished shots. It now has the stock 5.3 LM7 motor in it. I was on a mad dash to get everything transferred over to make it to another dyno day I was hosting. 

Here are the headlight covers installed. 

Here are a few pictures from the 5th Annual SQC Tuning/Motiva DynoDay/BBQ/Show-N-Shine. (Feb 2012)

I also Finally got a matching 30psi boost gauge in the dash.


I went back and forth trying to choose a cam. I was on the fence between the Speed Inc tu2 and the Comp XR281HR. I finally picked the later. 

As I was doing the install, the lifters would not stay in the trays so I was using a magnet to lift them up while I slid a dowel in to retain them. I got to the last 3 lifters when the magnet broke off inside the motor. I did what I had to do and pulled that head off and got everything back together the way it should be. 

Also on this round of upgrades is a new windshield and I got new Tokico blues installed up front. The old shocks were a little blown. 


Lastly for this update got some logo's donated for the car. 

The goal for latest sprint to get the car ready was a local Import vs Domestic race named All Out Call Out. I had taken the car to work to make sure all was good but had no time to really dial in the tune on the smaller motor. I got two runs on the new setup in the test passes before the real race to tune it. On the first run I had the boost controller off and with 4psi it ran a 12.1 @ 115 with a 1.9 60 ft. Run 2 with the boost controller set the same as last year the new setup hit 18psi (down 6psi) and ran 10.3 @ 144mph (only down 3mph from last year) but still a weak 1.8 60 ft. It is not building boost on the line like it use too. Next up was the first round of eliminations and I'm facing Scott in the Vega that I ran in No Bull last year. I had adjusted the Ams1000 to push some more pressure into the top port of the wastegate and added some timing. He left the line with a much better reaction time but I was playing chase. Still no real boost on the launch but I came on much quicker and harder. I lost both my tach and shiftlight but still shifted flawlessly. Unfortunately the car didn't stick with the increased boost and I found myself in the middle of a wild ride trying to keep the car off the wall. I succeeded in saving the car but lost the round with a 12.3 @ 110 mph. 



A quick update. I know its been awhile. Sorry guys. I finally killed the stock 5.3L It wasn't even something cool. I was cruising to a car show doing 30mph when something that sounded like a tire blow out let go in the motor. No visible external damage or fluids but something is flopping around in there. I'm thinking maybe a wrist pin or rod let go. Since its winter time its time to start the next chapter in this saga. I finally got the 6.0 over to the machine shop.  I have sold off the borg warner S480 and have order twins 61mm's. Once the parts start showing up I will get pictures up.


That is the plan Dans toy.


I have gotten most of the parts I need for the new turbo kit. I'm finishing up a build for someone this weekend and then hope to start on my datsun again.

Here are the turbo's I'm going to run. They are precision MFS 6152e with t4 .58ar housings. I ran the t3 version on my integra back in the day and loved it. I'm speculating that I will have a power band from 3500 to 6800 although when I called precision they thought I would have full boost at or below 3k. We will see.


Here is what I'm hoping it will look like:

My wife agrees. She doesn't want it coming out of the hood either. I may re-think the routing.


Working on the new setup for 2013. I drew up the plan for the twin setup. Here are some photos of the beginning of the merger for the exhaust. I want to have the turbo's oriented before mapping out the rest of the piping. I measured so I can use the ports in the top of the radiator support for air filter pipes. (March 2013)






I made a bracket to support the turbos. It will attach the turbo's to the radiator support. I also ordered the 4 inch bends so I can build the new exhaust which will incorporate a magnaflow muffler. (March. 2013)





I am planing to doing a A2W inside the dash.

I took the car to get recertified by the nhra tech this weekend. It only happens once a year so you have to make sure you get on the list. My car is good to run no faster that 8.50 in the 1/4 for another 3 years. (March. 2013)



Collecting Parts. I'm going to attempt to fit a 4 inch in/out Magnaflow Muffler in the front fender. I also had some water port flanges cnc for the lq4. It will use 3/4npt to 12an fittings. My hope is to less restrictive and run cooler. That and they look cool. (March. 2013)




I got the turbos hanging in the engine bay. I kind want them an inch higher so I may redo the brackets but haven't decided. I also put the muffler in to see how it will fit. I think I will need to run the intercooler pipe on the other side of the motor to make room for the ubend going into the muffler. I need to see how the intercooler fits behind the dash before I make the final decision on that though. Exhaust mandrel bent pipes should be in tomorrow so I can get some more built this weekend. (March. 2013)



If anyone is interested in the water pump outlet flange above I can get a group buy started. It would be 80.00 for a pair shipped in the USA. I would need to let them know in the next couple of weeks though.


Thanks and good luck with your sale and build. I have a few friends on TSC but Im not on there much. I have the same screen name on there too.


Here is the picture of the air to water intercooler that I plan on putting in the dash. Hopefully it will fit. The piping and couplers came in so I can build the exhaust. The exhaust is starting to take shape.






I'm running 2 passanger side truck manifolds. 02 silverado I believe (non egr).


Since there will be no more front mount intercooler sitting behind the bumper I sourced a grill to put back in. It needed alittle tlc but it looks pretty good now and matches the engine bay.




The turbo hot pipes are really coming together now. The muffler is in place with the 4 inch pipe heading to the merger. A 4 inch vband will be added in where the pipes meet but aren't tacked together yet. The passager side manifold wraps under the 4 inch exhaust to feed that turbo. The drivers side is more direct. Next up will be the wastegates.







CNC crazy for this update. Lots of eye candy created by my machinist buddy Arthur. First up is a oil cap breather that will take a fitting for the oil catch can. Next is a oil feed block that will supply the turbo oil. Finally we have some new wheel spacers to replace the old universal ones.




Reassembling the 6.0 lq4. Machine work was done at Budlongs to cut and polish the crank. I ordered some new rings from Wiseco so its nice and fresh. Next up was cleaning the coil packs and giving them a fresh coat of paint while I wait on parts. Unfortunately there was some collateral damage from the 5.3l. Looks like the comp cam took some hits from a rod so its not going into the new build. A custom grind from tick performance is the most likely going in.





Plans have changed for the intercooler. The turbos will now be forward facing and feed directly into the air to water intercooler and then straight into the throttle body. It should look cool and minimize piping and spool time. Pictured are the mockup in paper and cutting off the cast tanks.





Made some progress on the intercooler end tanks. I'm still not sure if the turbo's will enter from the front or sides so I simplified the design to accommodate either entry.







The radiator support was next up on the list to be redesigned. I wanted to achieve 3 goals move it forward for more room for the turbos, give the ground more clearance, and have a way to attach aero panels. In the first picture you see the new structure added, then the next picture the radiator is mocked up in position and old support removed, then we have a front shot to show new angle and clearance. (Oct. 2013)




You'll need to run the alternator directly to the battery and nothing else. Then run the battery to the kill switch and the kill switch to everything else. I ran to starter then fuse box etc. I have the push off style switch. The reason is when you push the kill switch the alternator can keep the car running. 


The new forward facing turbo mount will bolt in to the chassis and the turbochargers will attach to the center section on the oil feed flange side. The new cam comes from Tick performance and is custom spec'd to this build. The valve train is being fortified with BTR .660 lift spring kit. Thank you again Road Runner Eye Mart for the support. (Oct. 2013)






One of the things I have wanted to improve is getting in and out of the car easier. The swing out bars from CCE didn't open quite far enough. This is a design I saw on the internet and had replicated. It started as solid mild steel and was machined into what you see. They are pretty beefy and should withstand a impact I hopefully will never have.





To get the turbo mounting brace in the desired position the fender needed some more material. Filler metal was added to the inner fenders and then the bracket itself welded in. The turbo's are now in there new location. In an attempt to visualize the intercooler placement I used some duct tape to hang it. It sort of worked.





There are 12 inches from the back of the turbo brace to the throttle body. I want the intercooler as close to the t-body as possible so the air doesn't heat up again. I laid out the pipes to see how they would fit. The goal here is to maximize air flow and velocity into the core. I'm leaning toward mirroring the original t-body side tank so I can have a more direct inlet from the turbo. (Oct. 2013)





The new intercooler endtank for the turbo side along with the new bov flange. The bov flange will need to be shortened and possibly angled to clear the radiator fan. I also got the cam in the motor and degreed. The head is only temporarily on to check clearances. It still needs the ARP studs and ls9 gaskets added.





They are oil cooled. I have a feed block from right above the oil filter. http://www.sq-creati...cncoilblock.jpg


Got another update:

The first picture is of the new mount to support the air to water intercooler. Next is the inlet side piping being fitted. Then the throttle body side being fitted. Finally on this round is the bov pipe being mocked up.







Now its time to work on the hot side pipes feeding the turbos. First up is the drivers side pipe. I got started on the passengers side but didn't get finished on this round. (Nov. 2013)




Got an exciting update this round. The passenger pipe feeding the turbo is in place. Now its time to build the twin 3 inch exhaust that merges into a 4 inch magnaflow muffler. The Driver side pipe is feed into a 3 to 4 inch transition cone before it makes the roller coaster turn. Then the passenger side gets merged right before the muffler. Finally for this round are the wastegates getting positioned. Had a little hiccup on this round though. One of the casters on my harbor freight welding cart came apart while being repositioned and everything almost toppled over. I caught it and now have new casters on the cart. (Nov. 2013)










Sorry I'm not on here as much as i use to be. A lot has changed with the car since I have been on last. It is blue now. It is still on a 6.0 lq4, powerglide, twin precision 61mm turbos. 

Made 850whp to the wheels

diy led tail lights

There are alot more videos and pictures on my instagram @sqctuning