91 405Mi16x4 Rear wheel drive conversion north south engine

By diyauto
( 1 )

91 405Mi16x4 Rear wheel drive conversion north south engine 

Compliments of Goce @ http://www.505turbo.com


I bought this car back in 2009, the car is a original 405 mi16x4 that means full time 4 wheel drive 53/47 wheel split on power the engine is original 1.9mi16 116 kw 160 hp, drove the car all the way thru collage had a lot of fun, about 2 years ago the 4WD(wheel drive) broke stripe the spline on the input shaft of the transfer case, no economical replacement parts so i put a diff in the original gearbox and became FWD so i remove the driveshaft and rear diff, as much as a like wheel spin, spinning you are not winning, noting like 4wd grip, i decided to go RWD to get more grip, i'm planning to use a getrag 240 copy form GM and the original drive shaft and torsen diff, this are pictures of the car when i bought the car in 2009 is the silver one, the red one is my father's 405 and the 605 was my brothers


Any big project contains lots of small projects that all together make it a one, to day my project was to repair the rear diff support bracket or as i call it the mustache bar, the bar was bent and has some rust on it, so i cut some un use brackets, and started using a hammer to make it straight but it seems to be made out of spring steel so ended using the press and made it straight, next cleaned it with wire brush and spray it with anti rust solution, couple hours later cleaned it with acetone and spray it primer black, more coming soon


Today i worked on the dirties job on any car, the CV joint grease, graphite grease, today i jack up the car in the air and removed the outer part od the cv joint to complete the work of refurbishing the rear axles and preparing the diff for installation back in the car, the diff was disassembled checked and reasemeld last summer, As you can see my mi16x4 is very different than a standard mi16 ther are no spring or torsion bars it uses hydraulics like citroen, ther are no shock absorbers, and the height is adjustable by moving a single bracket the damping in control by valves wich can be change very easy and the spring rate is changed by changing the green sphere, i found little more rust than taught and a very bad repair on the exhaust, i'll spend couple of days underneath it repairing rust and installing the diff, i'll leave the exhaust for now, will make a new one after the conversion more coming soon


Today started by removing the drain and fill plugs, one of the job was to find a temperature sensor, i like to keep my eye on the temperatures, and glue a magnet on it, i used a teflon tape to seal it, went to the parts store and bought more graphite grease and oil for the diff, mounting the diff started by bolting the front mount, and inserted the axles and jack it up and bolted the mustache bar and rear two mounts, used my engine crane to hold the funnel to fill the diff, so i spend half day on my back on cold garage floor, hard dirty job, unfortunately i develop a fuel leak from dry rotted hose, so tomorrows job to up grade the fuel system.


Today didn't go as planned, the plan was to redo the entire fuel system and upgrade the pump, but got caught running around town completing tasks, but got something done, started cutting a piece of the original bracket and mocking it up after couple of measurements i made two brackets, used a piece of rubber and used rubber under the washers and bolts to limit vibrations and noise,i also got too used my new step drill bit, they work great, the pumps i plan to use are the original bosch 130-200 lph pumps, but two, to support bigger injectors that i plan to turbocharged it, more to came.


Today job was to install the dual fuel pumps, for now i'm using just one, will connect them once i redo the entire system, so first started to make the car levitate, also made a good ground to the pumps and to the diff, so the temperature sensor is installed will work properly, this is how i purge my fuel system, the right fuse is for the pump removed the fuse and connected +12v to the right side of the fuse, no leaks, idling smoothly.


Today started by making "the list" all parts that i will need for the conversion, for starters will need to make a big shelf for the parts.


Today all my plans got delayed, the garage is getting its heating system install, unfortunately may take a month or two before i can get my garage back and start the real work, i'm still going to post daily up dates on parts that how they arrive.


Today spend half a day moving, reorganizing (making a mess) my spare parts to make room for the heating equipment, the good news found some parts that i forgot about, more tomorrow.


Yesterday by cleaning the garage found the patch panel for the rust under the fuel door, i forgot that i had it, later in the project will make the repair, today my fuel injectors came from ultrasonic cleaning, i got them couple of years back wanted to install them, read about them on couple of forums, factory mi16 injector 0 280 150 762, the new generation bosch blue 0 280 155 712, they should provide better throttle response and better fuel economy, later when i go turbo will need bigger injectors, some of my fuel components arrived AN6 conversion kit for some toyota, thinking that can use it on the mi16 fuel rail, but looking it i can't use any of them, ordered some more, and my boost controller came in the mail, cheap china knock off of the turbosmart boost-tee.

The factory 0 280 150 762 is 214 cc @3bar 14.9ohm, bosch 0 280 155 712 is 204 cc @ 3 bar 14.9 ohms, and they are easy to found used on opel 2.5 and 3.0 v6 that leaves me 2 extra injectors, couple people have used them and have great success.


Today is a big day i got my turbocharger, is a old school T3 Garrett TB0367 out of a lancia delta integrale, is little small for my taste, but on the stock engine will keep me out of trouble, got the turbo really complete it has its water pipes and oil drain, tested the west gate actuator tested ok opens at about 1 bar, i need to found oil supply flange, oil drain bung for the oil pan, T3 flange, gaskets, got the original down pipe, slight problem the down pipe bolts have snapped, one unbolted easy, the other two will need some heat to came out, got this overboost solenoid from the same car, not sure if i'll use it.


Today started removing the broken bolts from the turbo, they give me a fight, started with stud extractor, it keep slipping, started with welding bolt on them using penetrating oil heat,they come out, after breaking couple time.

Couple more parts arrived, I made a T3 flange, and couple more pieces for the oil supply and drain, and bought couple of AN6 fittings.


Today's job was to repair the drive shaft support bearing, this is the original one from 1991, 15000 km ago i replaced it because bearing become noisy and the rubber was split, bought a new one for mercedes w202, and used spacers and longer bolts to make it fit, now it is ruined, not sure if it was too weak or bad quality, looked for a original one, found that is identical for scenic rx4 but could not found a new one, found a guy breaking a rx4, he assured me he has one in mint condition, sent it out, when it arrived it was ripped only the outside part arrived, no bearing race and bearing, did not buy it, so decide to try the windscreen sealant metod,i cut 4 openings and clean it all, made a mechanical tooth to stick,and fill it more then standard, now is more solid, and bought a new bearing, will press it on when i refurbish the drive shaft, not a part that you see on a 405, only on 4x4.


Today my new boost gauge came in the mail, i went for a digital gauge, it shows volts as well, so i won't install a separate volt gauge, i will buy two oil temp gauges for the diff temp , gearbox temp, and air/fuel ratio, my DIY led air/fuel gauge is accurate, but i want a digital display, so i'll use a oil pressure, boost, 2 temp and air/fuel ratio gauges, i have a good NTK O2 sensor for the gauge,i got word that my friend got me a fuel regulator, i'll get ti in the next few days.


Today got a Audi throttle body for the mi16, not sure if i'll use it, it has 30% more opening will help with air flow

Got this oil filter sandwich plate for external oil cooler with thermostat, is a oem part from a fiat, would like to replace the coolant to oil cooler, with oil to air, to relieve the cooling system, also got this O2 sensor bung.


Today following the list got myself a clutch cylinder and reservoir, the gearbox am planning to use uses hydraulic release bearing, i have ordered stainless steel flex line.

Also today got my fuel regulator is a Aeromotive A1000-6 should support any power level i wish to achieve with the mi16, also bought two 90 degree AN6 fittings, couple of straight AN6 fittings and 2 meters of braided line.


Today i want all your advice, I want to change the crankshaft accessory pulley, my original separated on the rubber, at a very inconvenient time, did a quick fix with a mig welder, i'm sure it is out of balance, so now the question is do i get a original heavy two part 5pk pulley, or go for a lightweight, do i low parasitic draw, does it affect the crankshaft main bearings, do i use a 3pk 4pk 5pk 6pk belt, plan to run a 80 amp alternator and a power steering pump, i have light weight aluminium two piece 3pk pulley from a renault, or a one piece xu5 pressed steel pulley 6pk, or get a bullet aluminium one made in factory size for the xu9j4.


I apologise to all the followers of this build, i've been sick the past couple of days and is not over with, on the build side i've decided to use this pulley it come out of a 94 405 1.6i but is seems to have been changed, it is little lighter then the original and is one piece, no rubber damper, the original mi16 has failed 3 times on me, this one can't fail.


Today my health improved so i'm back on the project, following the list, got to planning the clutch disc because peugeot used 18 spline and the gearbox i'm planning to use has 14 splines i need a new disc, so i got my old clutch kit out to measure, because my car is mi16x4 has a bigger clutch 215mm where ordinary mi16 has 200mm, the disc i found, i can't use it, no big loss because is so worn i can't use it, in the pictures can been seen the disc is too small for the pressure plate and the input shaft is much bigger on the rwd gearbox.

This is the gearbox i'm planning to use in my conversion, it came out of a opel omega 2.5td, the same engine in the bmw 3 and 5 series diesel, it is a copy from the getrag 240, little stronger because the stock engine produce 250 nm torque, i chose it because it's short and regular available, it use guibo joints, i plan to make a adapter from the 3 bolt flange to U-Joint flange, i need to found or make a shifter handle, and it needs a good clean, maybe tomorrow i'll clean it.


Thank you SRDT i've been looking for those measurements and this file will help, i've bought a non working gearbox for a diesel and disassembly it to use for the flange to the engine and the crank position sensor, if i can found a way to cut them both straight and weld them in parallel, anyway i spend my day telephoning around and going store to store to found a clutch disc that would work, found a similar size one, 2mm to big, then a contact came through about a tuning store in skopje they made a costume clutch kit for a customer how did not purchase it, so i went there with the old pressure plate and a disc with the right spline and it was a perfect match, they told me thet it was for some bmw e30 conversion, the disc supposedly has dual spring against factory singles, the friction material is a better compound for more grip, and longer life and is the right size, because i did not need the complete kit just the disc and they been sitting on it for years gave me a better deal than factory replacement, not sure what to thing about ther are no manufacturing marks and names, only my right foot punishment will tell the truth.


My garage is still occupied, and to give myself a head start i want to start modifying the gearbox housing, i have a spare engine block from a diesel, same as the mi16, but i do not have a mi16 flywheel, and do not know if the diesel and mi16 flywheels are the same height, because the diesel do not have the crank sensor ring, i need couple of measurements if anyone has a mi16 out, distance from flywheel face to blok face where gearbox bolts on, distance from pressure plate fingers to blok face where gearbox bolts on.


The past couple of days have been hectic, i haven't done any work on the car but good news are on the horizon, i may get my garage back by the end of march.


After a frustrating day of been lied from form couple of heating specialist, decided to get back on the project, got under the car to take couple of measurements and found this extra engine support, so could not take no measurement, and by looking at the subframe seams to be lower then the FWD (front wheel drive) subframe, so i got a FWD subframe in good condition, little oily but no rust never been damaged, will see and use which will be easier to modify and fit better, more to come tomorrow.


Today i started by finding my sebring exhaust box, i've run this box couple of years back, it was too loud, so this time around i plan to run couple more straight thru mufflers, i hate loud exhaust, but i like it to be heard at high rpm, i did a slash cut on a stainless steel pipe that i plan to use as my exhaust tips, probably will run 4 tips two on each side if i have place to run the pipe to the passenger side, may even exit behind the rear tires.

I've also been buying and finding couple of sensors and connectors for when i go turbo, i got a Gm air temp sensor and map sensor to be able to set up for speed density, a proper TPS sensor as the mi16 uses only a switch, also got couple more air temp sensors from vw's and mitsubishi that i may use in my logs to have data about inlet temp, outside temp, before intercooler temp


Last night i was at the breakers yard, and fount a car with a lpg conversion, so a bought the injectors, ecu, map sensor and the wiring loom complete system without the switch and evaporator, i plan to use ti for water methanol or nitrous sequential injection


I apologise to all the followers of this build, basically what has happened all the heating specialist have failed me and for the past week i've been installing copper pipes, in the meanwhile i've bought a another car, (small japanese k car) for hauling things around, it has to pass is safety exame soon so i have to put couple of days in it before i start the mi16x4 teardown, no worries i'll write soon as things move along.


Unfortunately the hard drive died on my pc and lost many photos and that what i'm not on the forum, my backup is a old laptop that is very very slow, it is still winter here but it is a mild winter 12-15 degree celsius, the deal with the small car it is very cheap to register and insure, and the streets in my city are small and my daly driver is a peugeot 605 which is big by europe standards so i can use it to keep the mileage down on the 605, i may post the installation of a LPG (propane) conversion which am in the process of planning to install.


Happy to say that i got my garage back i install the entire heating system myself, and clear a space in the garage, tomorrow i have to do some work on the small car, i have to change the rear brakes, handbrake cables, door carts, seats, control arm, tie rods,engine mounts, front and rear bumpers need bodywork and paint, it seems to be easy to work on, will see how long it takes.


Thank you Rabin, ingenuity is my way of life, my PC's hard drives died without any warning and i lost all my photos documents all gone, used my back up laptop, it also died, i've just got my main pc running, so i'm back posting, in the meanwhile i've been working on this kei car to get it thru its safety test, it needed a whole lot more done than i thoat : new ignition, all new interior, rear brakes, intake and thermostat gaskets,suspension bushings, rust in rocker panel and whale in there full service belts, oil, filters repaint the bumper, undercoat and install lpg system, couple more days to finish it and to get it out of the Peugeot garage.

I was on the fence for using the audi throttle body because the restrictor in the top, i wanted to bore it out but there is not enough material on the sides, so when i've seen this throttle body with removable restrictor, i got it, clean it and remove the restrictor it also has some type of diffuser on the smaller flap and a idle shock absorber, which i plan to remove, i like the crisp throttle response with quick idle for better heel-and-toe, the plan going forward is to change the small flap shaft, knife edge the center divider and give it a polish.


Rabin your friend sounds like real pro that advice sounds like something i'll will say, the TPS on the mi16 is very primitive is actually double switch idle and full throttle, the smaller valve opens first up to 45 degrees before the bigger valve opens it is a mechanical linkage, the full throttle switch is activated at 75 degrees, you can see in the photos i've finished the modifications: change the small valve plate from the other TB, remove the dumper, change the TPS for the mi16 one, install the cable bracket and pulley, did my knife edging, not real sharp but no flat edges, i also plan to use this composite spacer from the mi16 you can see the difference in size, the size will make a difference in power and throttle response.


I spent last couple days changing tires winter to summer, servicing the daily drivers while the garage is empty


Yesterday i had some free time so i took the mi16x4 for a drive may be last drive as FWD, i haven't driven it for almost a year, and i've forgotten how fun is it to drive, and thet engine wants to rev and rev, the opposite off my daly driver, i've been busy the last couple of weeks, and the weather been bad, soon will start the tear down on the mi16x4, i'm not sure if i should paint the engine bay factory color of my car use to be black, the previous owner has change it to silver, when i got the car the paint was a mess so i pay for a professional paint job, but the engine bay stayed black


Is easter today so no working in the garage, about the engine bay i was planning to repaint it, but i've changed my mind, for now i'm going to pressure wash it clean it the best i can, if it looks bad then i will paint it, in many JDM cars from the factory the engine bay came grey or black, and is alot of work to prep it propely then do primer, base coat, clear coat, if it was a solid paint it will been a done deal.


I've been busy modifying the mi16 fuel rail to adapt to AN6 fittings, it was very difficult to weld the nut to the rail, first use my mig welder, it was leaking, took it to a friend he welded it with a tig welder and it again leaked, then i used silver solder to make it seal now i put it in high built primer not sure what color to paint the rail, now i have all the parts to finish the fuel system and make it safe, i've had bad experiance with fuel leaks.


Who can guess what is this, i've spent 2 full days designing it, finding the material, drilling, tapping, machining it.


I presumed that someone will notice the two sets of bolt holes, and the locating grooved for the flange, It is an adapter plate, to convert from Guibo joints to u joint driveshaft, i looked at all the options and decided to use Giubo joints on bouth ends, when i went to buy the parts from a friend's parts store, my friend laughed and told me Guibo joint on the silver car you driving, will not last a week, so i ask around, and lot of new RWD cars have that problem, so new plan to reuse the origanal driveshaft, just to shorten the front part as needed, so look for a bolt on flange on the gearbox, no luck, then decide to make this adapter, used couple of CD's to make my bolt patterns, drilled and tap them by hand, then made it round on a lathe, i was in a rush so did not make a lot of photos, but you can see at the end had to rim the center hole a by a 0.2mm and it fits perfect


I've been working hard past 3 days to clean the rear bay of the garage, finally i clean enough space to do the work, started by marking the center of the bay, and parking the car on the line, this will make centering the engine and gearbox easy,i had to push the car many times to center it perfectly, tomorow will jack up the car and put it on jack stands, the floor of my garage is not perfectly level, so i need to shime the stands to get the car perfectly level, more tomorow.


I've made my mi16 to levitate, also made it level in both directions so i can position the engine and box straight and true, started by taking the hood off, next job must be wrap it to protect the paint job.


i've started the mi16x4 teardown, started with the grill, bumper, headlights,wheel liners they took half an hour, they we been off recently, taking the radiator support out was more difficult couple of the bolts have size solid, then the A/C condenser came out, coolant radiator, and then the fun begins all the connection, lines have to come out and be marked, it is not helped them every time i start to work on it someone calls and i have to drop the work and go do something else, you can see i have some extra plumbing and equipment to deal with for the LPG fuel system, i'm surprised how filthy my engine is, the engine is so tight in the engine bay you can't see it, the work continues more to come.

i've been working hard and the xu9j4 is out, i've changed engine in couple of 405 but never in mi16, and compared to 8v engines is more difficult, and i made one more stain on my floor, from gearbox oil, after that i wasn't going to risk with power steering i left it all attach will drain it later, now i have the tedious job removing and marking the engine loom, i may have enough space on the subframe for the gearbox but the anti roll bar and steering rack must be gone, i'm not worried about the anti roll bar, but the steering rack is going to be difficult, i got a unexpected surprise, i got the front tires 9000 km ago, i know i was getting wheelspin a lot, but the tires have worn down from 9mm to 3mm in 9000 km and i'm not doing burnouts or driving like a idiot and there is a lot of cracks and dry rot, so i have to add new tires to the list.


Today i spend couple of hours organizing the parts removed from the car, also moved the engine box and started on the engine loom, but got distracted removing the gearbox, you can see in the picture the 4WD gearbox with a FWD diff in it and the speedo housing, the clutch kit was replaced 3000 km ago at peugeot main dealer, and as you can see the mechanic forgot his cleaning rag, and it is stuck in the pressure plate and all over the bell housing how can a person have trust in mechanics when i've seen this, the main dealer charge me a full month pay for the clutch replacement and forgot his cleaning rag, at least they used original valeo clutch kit, more to come


I spend half a day removing the wiring from the engine, now i have the bare engine also removed all the accessories, the intake bolts gave me a fight,  but the worst are the two 18mm on the cambelt mount i broke my breaker bar and a wrench, after the engine, started on the engine bay, drain the power steering, removed the pump, hoses, shifter mechanism, then rip the insolation from the firewall, remove the steering rack, anti roll bar, heat shield, O2 sensor, exhaust front part, also removed a/c expansion valve, i will found a blanking plate, i may even have one from the black car, the factory tunnel is definitely too small and the front frame may be too high, the clutch pressure plate will be a problem to, the center hole between the fingers is too small, do not know how to enlarge it, the fingers are heat treated i can't cut it on a lathe


After measuring i need to enlarge the hole between the fingers on the pressure plate to 44mm from 30mm after thinking about it, i can't cut them no a lathe only way is with an abrasive stone, so i made this jig from some scrap steel and an old Stanley grinder, worked great until the stone got too hot and melted the glue that was holding it, unfortunately it was my last small stone and been sunday all stores are closed, tomorrow will buy couple more stones, i've enlarge it to 38mm now, 6mm more i'm done.


Today i went to the hardware store and bought couple more abrasive stones, and got back to work enlarging the hole between the fingers on the pressure plate , it took a lot of time and at the end the grinder burnout, but finish the job, i'm satisfied with the resultat, i will wash the pressure plate before final assembly, you can see the difference in size next to the stock one, and i need to cut back the bellhousing much more than i thought, in the picture the throwout bearing is fully extended, the engine and box are surprisingly short, so i have very little floor to cut.


The work continues, started today by making the scraper to mark where to cut it, then i cut it, then i marked and cut the peugeot gearbox flange, i plan to use the top two bolts, crank sensor, starter and left lower bolt, that leaves me to use only one of the original gearbox bolt holes, next thing to modify is the input shaft, i need to cut it at the bearing surface, and turndown the the splines to 15mm, tomorrow have to figure out how to turn it down, do not want to disassemble the gearbox and the spans are hardened steel, ones i do that the gearbox and engine will meet flash more to come.


Today's job was to make the gearbox meat the engine, the input shaft was too long, i needed to turn down the shaft to 15mm and shorten it, started bay welding a nut to the input shaft then used short length of all thread to leave my shelf room to work at the end i simple screw in a 405 wiper motor, then used couple heavy scrap pieces to hold it in place, then i use my angle grinder to make a parting line where to stop, then switch to a grounding stone used it to remove the teeth, then switch to a flop disk to get a better finish, than switch back to the cutting disk to cut the excess while it was turning, at the end switch back to the flap disk, put the box in 1 gear one hand on the output shaft to turn the box in the other grinder to make the end round, i'm satisfied ti turd out much better than it should have turned especially done by hand, after that the gearbox marriage to the engine right, the clutch release bearing seems to be right, and one bolt hole seams to be close enough to be used , then i mark the gearbox again to cut it back more and i cut it, installed the peugeot flange and marriage the engine and box again, they don't meet perfectly but they are close enough, that's enough for today, next job to line them straight and clean them for welding.


Today's job is to enlarge the spacer hole for the new throttle body, it clearly shows how much bigger is the new throttle body, i cut the throttle body flange from the intake manifold because it faces the wrong way, i neet to enlarge its hole too, and sand it smooth, that is the roughest casting i  have ever seen, it's like the surface of the moon, as for the rest of the manifold i probably will make i new collector from sheet aluminium to be smooth and smaller to fit the space i have available, more to come.


Today my turbo oil feed arrived, i was planning to run a hardline, but this one was at a good price and the line itself is stainless steel braided teflon, the T3 flange it has a small hole for the oil to pass in the turbo only 1mm, i plan to drill it out to 4mm , that's the size of the line, not sure is that big enough, any advice?


Thank you Savo, you are right dealing with machine shop is a pain, machinist in my country are like dealing with a hustler, they will say anything to raise the price up and i'll end up paying more then the gearbox is worth, doing it my shelf save me the trouble, i'm more proud of the clutch pressure plate than the input shaft because there was no other way and the machine shop told me is impossible to enlarge it, it is spring steel. The reason why i did it like this, is because the gearbox bell housing was too long and when i shorten it there were only two lower holes which did not line up, so i decided to use the upper part of a BE3 gearbox, that way my starter, crank sensor and 3 bolt holes lind up. Yesterday i cut a XUD7 block and crank in half and made a stand to hold it at 30 degrees to make it easy to line up for welding, now i'm waiting on my friend to find some free time to weld it.

Couple of weeks ago the harddrive on my pc died and i lost all my old pictures and videos, but thanks to youtube, one survived is very bad quality (vga phone camera) but shows how good the 4WD system on the mi16x4 is, that is a hill.


Last couple of days some more parts arrived first of which is a air/fuel ratio gauge, blow off valve and flange, coolant expansion tank, level sensor and cap, and couple silicone vacuum hose, and screw in vacuum nipples, and made some progress on the gearbox, more to come.


This update is couple of days work combined, i've cut a spare engine block and crank and welded legs to it, it is easier to move around, gives me access to the bolt holes.Then took it to my friend and line it up for welding, then we welded them together, the peugeot flange to the RWD gearbox, there was a big gap to fill, and the gearbox wasn't the cleanest aluminium, but my friend is a real pro at welding, for the last bolt hole we weld a new bolt flange from scratch, by stacking weld on weld. Tomorrow i need to check is the flange square to the input shaft and drill and tap the last bolt hole and then it should be a rare thing a XU engine RWD gearbox.


i've been working hard on the mi16, i've level the gearbox flange it moved while welding but i was able to make it straight then i drill and tap the last bolt hole, after that i was able to united the engine and box, then i started on the interior, i need to make room for the gearbox to enlarge the tunnel, i had a lot of trouble with one bolt on the seat, i had to drill it, later i have to fix it, after the seats i remove the center console, shifter and then cut the floor pan to make room for the gearbox, tomorrow i need to make some support to be able to support the engine from the bottom i'll make it adjustable to make it easy to test fit the steering rack in different positions.


The work continues i started by offering the engine and box in the car, it would not fit, i cut the firewall little more and again no fit, then realize that they are too high, then i unbolted the cross member and cut the main cross member, it was very thick steel, i used up a full package of cutting discs, then the engine fit like a glove, pulling the engine in and out took me all day, i let the engine on a spare tire just to see how it looks, and it needs to move back in the bay, the steering rack will be a problem, there is enough space for the turbo and exhaust more to come.


Today started the day by getting out an old engine dolly, i use those simple frame with wheels to store and move around spare engines in the garage, first mod was to shorten it, then i weld a broken car jack because it can move and welded two limiting pieces, than installed it under the engine and in place made two more mountings using two more car jacks and by the looks i need to cut a hole in the fire wall for the distributor if i move the engine 12sm in, i will get clearance to the bonnet more space and for the steering rack, and better weight distribution, the strange thing is the valve covers paint is bubbled up completely not sure what made it, by moving the engine by the valve cover it peels in my hands now is bare aluminium, is ugly now.


Today i went to the breakers yard to get a smaller steering rack, got one from a Fiat is much smaller and should work, got a few more things. It is hard work pulling the engine and box in and out of the engine bay, i needed a day to rest more to come.


Today started by pulling the engine and making room for the engine to go back in the cockpit, having the weight of the engine and box over the front axle will make the car understeer like the VW's B5 platform, so i found the center mass of the engine and box and will place it exactly over the front wheels and lower in the frame for lower center of gravity, that all will help me to clear the bonnet and will have larger space for the radiators and intercooler, at first i cut the steel and insulation and test fited the engine needed more space, engine out cut the first plastic from the heater box, again test fit still to tight then i cut it all the way to the heater core and cat back the subframe for the gearbox now fits.

This is close to the right place where the engine will live, it should fit under the center console and look like from the factory, the exhaust manifold will have to be modified is very close to the subframe, not a big deal,  may weld the T3 flange now, just to bolt the turbo on when i found a standalone engine management.

I went to the breakers yard yesterday to get a smaller steering rack, got this 3 pumps, couple of high pressure lines, steering rack, i chose this rack because it exits 90 degrees for the steering wheel, in the picture you can see the place where it will live, under the subframe, tie rod ends are very different and will have to make a custom setup to eliminate bump steer, also got two joints for the leakage.


Today started by test fitting a distributor cap, i need to cut little more for the wires to pass, next i remove the exhaust collector i'll need to modify it later, interesting the studs for it are stainless steel, after that i started test fixing the steering rack, i need to cut the subframe for the rack to come through, it will be the lowest point on the car, so i have to make some sort of rock gard.


Today i started planning the cooling system, the lower radiator hose flange, had a broken drain bolt, i had a XU5 flange but it has only 2 small hose nipples,thankfully the drain bolt is the same, so i found new o rings for both the flanges, and i plan to use the original one, but i have the other ready if i don't need all the nipples.

i've ordered this lock cylinders, couple of months back and they got lost in delivery, i've forgot about them and today they arrived, they are a copy not oem, but for the price good enough, the driverside one on my mi16 is broken and they are 25 years old.

I need to found or make new dropped tie rod ends, that need to be drop about 3" any suggestions ???


Today got couple more parts, got a clutch line stainless braided, and my fuel filter araved, i plan to run 2 pumps and need 2 filters, the one on the car is new, plus this one, more to come.


Today started by planting the engine mounts, i had this engine mount that is use for hanging from the frame, but is is too big, the frame is very thin and it has a bend where i need to bolt it, so will not work, after that pulled the engine out for the 38 time now, and cut back the subframe for the rack to fit, wanted to make mounts for it, but i don't have a piece of steel to weld the subframe, and make the steering rack mounts, so i moved to making the steering linkage, and after that cut back the fire wall and floor to make more room for the distributor, tomorrow i need to go to the steel yard to get some more steel and buy couple more cutting discs, more to come.

Thank you Andre, you are all welcome, i enjoy communicating with everyone and helping every way i can, i apologise for my grammatics in my posts, my english is self taught. As for the clearance issues are because i've rotate the engine, and the gearbox is massive and it has no provision for a steering rack, the car is from, uses a steering box in front of the engine, i'm very persistent and i will make it work as it should, you may notice every solution is based on making it myself, that is because is the cheapest way, the salary in my country are very low, so i'm sourcing parts as cheap as possible to be able to make it happen.


I've been busy with everyday life but i'm using every spare minute working on the car, today i went to the steel yard and got some flat stock and angle iron, is should be enough to weld a subframe and make a rock gard after i mount the steering rack i need to check if there's enough space for the engine to go in and out i also got this heavy duty crossmember is zinc coated and i plan to use it unmodified i prefer overbuild then underbuild, the pieces may be thicker than necessary, i started on paper template, but got a call and have to stop, also got a thick piece of steel of which i plan to make my custom tie rod ends, little worry for the weight, that piece is 18kg and it neads a lot of machining, more to come.


Today i spend a full day in the garage, first i repair my mig welder to start welding on this project, started by cutting and tack weld the first piece, the second piece need a notch to clear the steering rack lines, then i tack weld it too, then i add one more piece around the rack, after that i removed the A/C radiator, is much bigger than i thought, now i need to close the box with a piece of plastic so it will work i desperately want to keep the heater, it will be tight under the dashboard.

In the evening i was back working on the car, put the engine back in the engine bay and started test fitting the inlet manifold and the battery box, it clears the steering rack and it clears the distributer cap, then the piece of pipe i've order last time i was in the steel yard arrived and i didn't wanted no time cutting it and fitting it is perfect it will box in the front end, i also plan to bolt the cromeber to stiffen the front and have it removable will be out of the way when engine is in and out, then went under the car and install the rear part of the driveshaft, by the look and after measuring the angle i will have to run cv joints, i'm thinking a front axle if i can found strong enough

Can someone see something wrong with the allen bolts on the outside?


Today i started working on the shifter mechanism, i didn't wanted to use the plastic and stamp steel shifter, so i decided to use a heim joint, the only size i could found was 10mm, so i bought 10mm C45 steel rod and started making the firs part, cut a standard sifter rod, removed the bushing, then drilled it to 10mm half way and drilled two holes on the bottom and ground the shaft to fit, than welded and ground flat, that part is done i just need to cut it to size when i mount it, after that i went to the car dismantlers, got two vw axles, they use lobro joint which i plan to use to connect the gearbox to the driveshaft, one of the lobro joints lines up with the driveshaft flange, but only 3 bolts will be a weak point, i need to make some adapter, the axle shaft itself is 28mm and shud be strong enough also got those tie rod ends, they should work with my idea on the custom setup i need to run, more to come.


I've been busy with everyday stuff, i found little time to disassemble and clean the lobro joints, and what i found i'm amazed, how bad one of them is, absolutely destroyed, saying that i have to buy one more, and knowing that i have to do a lot of metal work on the body shell, on the tunnel, so i thought i need to buy couple of tools, i hate the cheap china tools, and quality tools are extremely expensive, i like the older made in germany tools, and when i see those body work dolly and hole punch i bought them, they will come in handy when making the new tunnel, more to come.


Today i got tired at looking at the mess next to the car so i started cleaning it, after awhile i got bored and finished cleaning the lobro joints and axles, one is ruined and i do not plan to use it. The other one is like new, after that i offered up the throttle body and is close to the radiator, i was planning to order silicone reducer, and by the look i would have made a mistake, now i'm waiting on couple of parts to start making the engine mounts.


I've been waiting on a couple of pieces of thick square and round steel, my steel yard have tubing in stock but thick steel only by order. I want to use the stock engine mounts to hang the engine, and use two more as roll stoppers on the new frame rails, so wanting to make it nice and sturdy i've ordered some steel. I remember seeing a Costume made mounts on a Lada samara Diesel, thy never came with a diesel engine from the factory, they ware converted i france and use peugeot tud5 engine, so a found one, her engine mounts they are made out of steel, but o man are thay badly made, on first look the mount bang is nicely machined and the bolt bungs are nice but the part in between is horrible, there are pieces of rebar and a long bolt use in it., and some one bought the car new like that and lasted for 820,000km, that was the number on the speedo. I plan to use this gearbox mount from peugeot MA4 box that are steel instead of aluminium like the stock 405 wich means i can cut and weld it easy.The front zinc plated crossmember seems to heavy to use it there, i may cut it and use it on the roll stoppers, fun times.

Today i put in a full day of work on the mi16, i spend almost 2 hours, centering the engine and box in the chassis, i center it and lifted it 15mm higher, so when the weight presses down it shud be in the right place. Decided to start on the passenger side engine mount first, started by mounting the exhaust manifold, coolant flange, so i could avoid them, then cut the top mount from the lada mount, that gives me a finishing point, then made 3 bongs, and bolted them to the block, then made a 7mm plate to connect them, that gives me a final point, after that i drill two holes in the new subframe for one more engine mount, is going to be more to stop the engine from rolling under load, than i used two pieces of pipe to connect the dots, after that i weld it fully, and put in couple of straightening plates, at the end i got tired and did not took photos when i finish, tomorrow i'll ground it smooth, and prime it , more to come.


Today i started where i left yesterday, started by grounding the engine mount smooth, then i test fitted it and is sturdy, then i clean up and weld the subframe where i could, when the engine is out i'll finish welding. To start making the drivers side mount i need to fit the power steering pump and alternator, that means that i need to make new mounts for them, first thing i need to change is the engine pulley, but someone has over tighten the bolt, started with the impact gun and broke the socket, then tried with a wrench and a hammer, broke that wrench, then grabbed the pulley with big set of pliers to stop ti spinning, and a good big wrench, and a 2m pipe, and started jumping on it with my 110 kg and it let go, now i can't get the pulley of, tried using a standard 3 leg puller and broke the pulley, now i have to make a special puller, that is for tomorrow.


Today i've been spending money on parts like crazy, i needed one more lobro joint, and when i need a specific part it seams price go up, i got this axle for 3 times the price more than the booth others, and i bought this big piece of 32mm c 45 hss steel, i needed two 90 degrees bends, i had to contract a building company to bend it, thay said it was vary hard to bend, i was surprised how nice it come out, that also was expensive.


Today i started where i left off,with an unbolted the center bolt on the front pulley it will not pull of, had to make a special puller, you can see i broke the pulley with a standard 3 arm puller, also you can see where i weld it last time it broke, i've replaced it 3 times, and i'm tired dealing with it that's why i'm doing this. And just as was pulling it i notice the center flange is cast together with timing belt sprocket so i can't use the pulley i planned to use, so new plan i'll try to use this pulley from a renault coupe i stripped for parts, i may use all the accessories from it, next thing i started with the mounting plate for the engine mount and i may use it to hang the alternator on it, i need to enlarge two holes, to make it fit, also bought couple more pieces of steel, for the engine mounts.


This work , i've done in the past couple of days, i've been busy and have not posted them. First i've disabled the last axle i've got and clean  the lobro joint, i also cut the axle thinking i may use the bigger part as a sleeve over the welded axle but the inside is to wide, so i found one that fits better, now only 6 more bolts and i'll have everything to complete the driveline, next thing i did was to enlarge the bolt holes for the flange on the drivers side engine mount, once it was fitting right, i started planning the brackets for the accessories, i got out all the brackets i had for peugeot i could not use any, so decided to cut the flange of one which has a bolt hole, offered up and mark'd where it lines up with the crank pulley, then drilled and tap it for m8, bolt it and then welded with some nickel electrodes, the flange is cast iron, then mounted the alternator and offered the power steering pump just to be in place to avoid them with the engine mount, than planned and at first it seem invisible to connect the flanges, after many failed attempts, i had to roll a tube to avoid the intake manifold, tack welded in place, next i started on the flange for the one extra mount, it bolts on the bolts for the A/C compressor, then got them out and welded solid, then started on the gearbox mount, started with the original mount that came with gearbox, is too low, straight piece is still low, so i added one more piece and drilled holes so i can access to bolt then, i'll probably add one more piece to connect frame rails more to come.


Couple more parts arrived, one of which a T3 oil feed flange with a bigger hole, 1mm seems too small, new one is 4,5 mm, i'll use it, if the oil pressure drops too low, then i will run the restrictor one.

I want to run a strut tower bar, i like the look of the aftermarket parts, but i love my oem parts, they are more affordable and regularly available, this one is from a renault megane coupe, it was 85mm short, so i got a m20 alen bolt and two nuts, i cut out the plastic retainer, and the bar perfectly matches on the inside, and i weld them, it is pretty thick piece of pipe and it weld very well, little paint and is finish.

Today i finish a big part of the conversion, the engine is been held on its mounts, yesterday i finished the drivers side mount and started on the gearbox mount, i'm particularly proud with the gearbox mount, it is made of 7 pieces of steel, fully welded, and i bottled it with 6 bolt, couple tru the floor pan with spreader bars, and the others straight in the chassis, letter i will take it out to smooth it and protect it, couple more big puzzles to solve and the finishing work.


One of the big puzzle to solve is the steering, so last night i called a friend and ask to use his workshop, hi has more equipment and tools, so i drill and threaded for the tie rod end extenders, the c45 is quite hard to drill and tap, they should work out fine, tomorrow i will tighten everything i also need to cut a taper in the spindle and i need check for rubbing on the full travel of the suspension, it seems that this projects is taking a long time, the shelf with all the parts from this project is sagging of the weight, more to come.


Last couple of days i've been organizing the garage, to be able to found all the sway bars that i have, i had 14 of them, couple are too long hitting the tires, started with the original one there was no space to install it towards the cabin, because it hits the steering rack, flip it towards the front and the tire hits it, then after couple more those in the picture where they came closest to fitting, the thickest was going to lay way to low, the one on the floor seams to be the right it is thinner at 20 mm, but the ends are longer and should apply more force, and the front end should be lighter as the box is in the middle, and by the looks i will have to run one more front crossmember to be able to bolt the sway bars on. Not too much progress but now the garage is clean i should be able to work more effectively, more to come.


Today i went to the car breakers with a tape measure and a measurement to find a sway bar that will fit my set up, this time i strategies, scrap steel to those people is like gold, and trying to buy heavy part they charge too much, so i loaded a scrap engine block, with the intention to lower their prices if they say i can get that much for scrap, i will say hire you go, and it turned out better than i thought, they said how about straight swap, in weight so i got them for free and cleaned my garage, so i went searching in the yard searching for the right one, and the closest was form B5 vw platform, got two front bars and one rear, one was from a passat estate and was 27mm the other was from a audi S4 and it was 31mm, they are identical except the thickness, it was a hot day and lying underneath the cars dropping the entire front subframe was hard work. Thet took me awhile but when i got back i could not leave it just sitting, i test fitted it, and it fit like it was made for it no need to run a diagonal cross member to attach it. Then the work started with the bar i got there links but they point the wrong way, the rears are too long got the 405 links, thay are shorter but way longer then i need, so i shorten them, cut them chamfer the end i aligned them and welded them, then connected the sway bar at both ends and lifted it in place, i needed a small spacer to clear the oil pan, little closer to the oil drain but it should be fine, and it will protect the oil pan from bumps, next i had to drill the bolt holes bigger the 405 had thicker bolts, so i made the spacers and brackets from some tubing, didn't weld them fully because i was tired, after that i disassemble the mi16 driveshafts i need the outer part to hold the wheel bearings together, i remove the inner core and ball bearings from the passenger side and protect it with a piece of rubber. As a last test i needed to check if the tires will hit the bar at full lock, i needed to do a quick aliment of the wheels, but both lock nuts wear size, one let go with heat, the other one was solid, had to cut it and split it, run a die to clean the threads and installed a new nut, and the tires clear the sway bar, it was a long day, more to come.


Today i've been busy with everyday work, did not work on the car but made a plan. Jobs need doing are making a shifter mechanism, but i can't make it before i connect the gearbox do the drive shaft to avoid it, some way to make the speedo work, 405 is mechanical with a cable, the gearbox i'm using doesn't have provisions for cable, it is going to be hard to make it function, making a exhaust, probably will make a header for the turbocharger, and install the intercooler, intercooler piping, cooling system. Next thing is the sheet metal on the firewall and gearbox tunnel, finish welding a subframe make steering rack mounts and a protective garde for the rack, finish mounting the accessories, modify the intake manifold, probably detail the engine bay, more to come.


Today i modify the intake manifold i needed it to face the other way, and i wanted to get rid of the core plugs, end two fell off on their one, wanted to make it tapered with a rounded end, so i used a aluminium fire extinguisher for the round part, the middle part did not come out as is should, and is hitting the battery holder, i will cut it out and weld a new part, i welded the throttle body sideways to clear the alternator, this is a big part of the conversion and is not completed, but much better then before, this took a full day a lot of welding, more to come.


Unfortunately during a thunderstorm we had a big power surge and it blown all the light bulbs and their holders, it was like a thunderstorm inside the garage, during the day i'm busy, most of the work on this project i do in at night, now without light and couple of blown fuses i need to repair the garage first before i work on the car, during the day i removed the box for the relays and fuses next to the timing mount, i had to bent the brake lines little, it should fit and it will be highest point in the cooling system, the expansion tank is from a peugeot 605 and it has two air vents, they will make purging air from the system easy, i like to keep all parts PSA corporation, more to come.


Today i put a full day of work in the garage, most of the time i spend fixing the electrical for the garage, organizing parts searching for a mounting brackets for the power steering pump. I also mounted the pulley to the pump properly, had to re drill the holes bigger, and then file them out, to fit the holes on the pump flange, you can see all the brackets i found but none fits, reason because the progress is slow is i'm waiting for a flange to be machined for the driveline, getting frustrated with the mounts for the power steering pump i moved to the exhaust, first remove the manifold and cut the ears were the bolts attach, install it in the car, way to tight to the frame, cut it back just behind the flange, this means i need to weld the two halves together, more i looked at it more i found little cracks plan to weld them later, in the last couple of pictures you can see how much carbon can a exhaust pipe get on the inside, both pipes are out of exactly the same make and model of car one owned by older men the other by a young, can you guess which is which, in the carboned one you can see the swirl from the turbocharger.


Today i span a full day over a lathe this couple of pieces may look easy or simple but they are crucial for this conversion, the first you've seen before, i just re drilled new set of bolt holes and taped them for the lobro joint, the original flange for the mi16x4 drive shaft is cast iron and known weak part, so i found a forged flange from some russian 4x4, and let me tell you is really hard, we used up a full pack of lathe tool titanium inserts,the other flange came from some vw and is also steel not cast iron, so it should be strong, next i need to weld them together and start test fitting it in place, it took me an entire day but i should be able to continue with the exhaust, shifter mechanism, tunnel sheet metal, more to come.


Yesterday's machining took way longer and i had couple of jobs backup so today had to finish them, only progress is i bought couple pieces of exhaust pipe, i'm making it from 60mm OD that's the same bore as the manifold and i will split it at the back, i always wanted quad exhaust tips, i also bought this big piece of steel to make a new exhaust header flange, , to make a complete turbo header, i contacted couple of companies, that have plasma, laser cutting machines, but it seems that they have them to say that they have them, not to use them, it will be the hard way, i have to drill it and cut it by hand, for now i plan to mock-up the two flanges and to locate the turbo so i can connect the pipes letter, now i have the most access and later when i find an standalone ecu i can just unbolt the header and bolt the turbo manifold, i will use a ball and socket flange so i can change a small section of the exhaust and the ball will allow little movement, i like to avoid a flex joint, because they do not last, probably cheap bad quality.


Quick little update, i've been busy, next part on the list is the driveline, the drive shaft needed the support bearing changed, and i do not see reason for it to come out, i clean it removed the old support, i was surprised, the splines tapered down to 22mm and that will be a weak spot, after that i prep it for a new coat of paint, i don't care too much for the look, more to protect it from rust, tomorrow i'll reassemble it and start the drive shaft mock-up.


Today i finished refurbishing the drive shaft, press in a new bearing in the support, then press it together on the drive shaft and pressed the protective cover and seal, then i installed the driveshaft on the car and tighten the bolts, after that i had to retread the adapter holes and had cut back the shaft from the gearbox, after than i use a tape measure and the mesurment was 40,5sm or 405mm funny that, then i mark and cut both shafts, chamfered both ends, clamped them in angle iron, and welded them, after that i shorten the sleeve and drilled 10 holes and again welded it, after it cooled i installed it and i was enabled to turn the back tires with a ratchet on the crank pulley now is connected, not sure how it will stand up to abuse, when the shaft was cooling i did some work on the exhaust, i was looking for couple of bends but could not find in the size that i needed so i'm using old ones that i have, more to come


Yesterday and today i've put in 26 hours working on the shifter mechanism and clutch master cylinder, started by measuring the original shifter, and placing it little closer to drivers seat where is more comfortable for me, after knowing where to place it i made couple of brackets for the gearbox, test fit them and they did not fit so i made a new one bigger for the mounting flange on the box, redrill the one for the mehanizam and made one more for the shifter to bolt to, the shifter handle itself, i made it couple of weeks ago and it fitted nicely, as the bottom part was from the 405 i use the rod to, i had to straighten it on a press because it had a band and that made the shifter stay crooked, when i strengthen it it was perfect, after that took couple of measurements cut couple of tubes and had to tack welded it in place, then took everything of the car and welded it solid after that reinstalled it found the right hardware and tighten everything up, if i lower the shifter lever down the shift throw becomes shorter, found this happy medium and left the lever long, leter when i get the center console in place i'll trim it. After that i started on the master cylinder for the clutch started by measuring everything and drilling a big hole for the cylinder to pass, i had to hummer the sheet metal little so the cylinder will mount straight, then i drill two more holes and bolted it i had to mount it with the input sideways so i can bolt the line to the slave cylinder, after that i drill a hole in the grommet for the abs loom and run a hose to the rezervoar i decided to put it next to the master cylinder to keep the firewall clean, the rezervoar fitted nicely, next went on the inside, drill two holes and shortened the rod and it attach with the original hardware and spring, hard work but i thing is worth it how it turn out, more to come.


Last couple of days i spend in the garage but not working on the mi16, but on my brother little 206, he blown a head gasket, as is his daly driver it took priority, first thoughts just drop a gasket, but when i took the head of, it was crusty, fill the chambers with petrol, the valves are leaking badly,new valves, cut valve seats, new valve seals, resurfice, cam seal, new rocker arm, had to remove 4 broken exhaust studs, it seems it was post detonation, probably why the exhaust valves were destroyed so it got a full head rebuild by me, only i had to took it to get it resurfice, clean the block and put it back together, now runs better than ever, nowhere near as quick as a mi16 but a fun city round about.


I've been catching up on some sleep having been awakened for 3 days straight, my hydrographic film arrived and i tried it out on this bottle cap, it is an interesting process very labor intensive, i plan to do it on the valve cover and couple of interior pieces, more to come.


Today i put in a full day on the exhaust, cutting pipes and bends with a 4" grinder and tack welding it in place, a week ago started with the bend at the header, today i had to redo it, i have to make couple of heat shields later, i put in swivel joint right after the front subframe, so when i go turbo i just have to make a short piece, i needed to cross to the drivers side because there is the space design for the exhaust pipes and resonators, i did this at the end of the gearbox, i plan to run just straight thru mufflers and resonators, i know something about design of the exhaust note, and back pressure, i squeezed the home made smaller resonator for the high note, then the larger resonator for the middle drone, and there i stopped. Doing this upside down crowing on the garage floor, it took a lot time, i had to cut the rest of the old exhaust, and it will go straight in the garbage, i think everybody will agree it's simply scrap, i need to relocate the fuel filter, so i can run my cross over pipe this way i avoid the plastic fill tube, i prepared the exhaust tips and found my lambda sensor bungs, i plan to run a separate lambda for the gauge, the back part over the axle and right side exhaust will be tricky, at this stage everything is in it it's ugliest state, the surface rust is easily clean up, and i have high temp paint to protect it, more to come.


Yesterday's work welding underneath the car without a helmet because there is no space left me with red eyes, so i took a little break and went searching for parts, went to a junkyard that i haven't been in 10 years, i was looking for couple of mufflers, and a strong rear diff for a different project, found this ford 7,5" 3,64 complete rear axle with tires, and walking back to the office i looked to the side and seen this peugeot diff, it had the torque tube attached to it, so i made e deal for both of them i did not took the torque tube, by the feel it is a open diff and on the input shaft it has stamp 9x35A it seams the resio seams to be 3,88-1, the owner there told me it came out of a 504 probably 2.0 liter, is there way to check the diff without taking it apart?


Today i spend couple of hours in the garage, first had to find place for the rear end that i bought yesterday, then i worked on the accessory drive, i loosely mounted the power steering pump, then i started back on the exhaust, made couple of pieces, and the had to remove the fuel filter, and i spilt fuel all over myself and the carpet i was lying on and floor, and decided to stop i don't want to catch myself on fire or the car on fire, fuel fumes easily ignite from spark from cutting or welding. No pictures sorry, more to come.


Today i continue the work on the exhaust, first had to cut out one small piece of the spare tire support and cut and bend the other, then started by placing the last and smallest muffler and then position the drivers side exhaust tips, then tack welded them, then i started on the other side i avoid everything made of plastic or rubber, i install a flex joint to avoid cracking, and when i tried to remove it it would not come out, so i cut it in half and put in one more flange, so now is in 4 pieces, then i remove the back two pieces and welded them, is very dark underneath and the pictures look very bad, in real life looks much better, the rust is really surface rust and when i wash the engine bay, i'll wash the entire floor pan and then use acid to stop the rust and protect it, i'll also use the acid on the exhaust parts that have surface rust and protect them, more to come.


It's been couple of days since my last update, while removing the middle section of the exhaust for welding the tack welds let go so i got tired of messing around underneath and decided to pull the engine out and start on the sheet metal, removing the engine is becoming more easy every time i do it. on the sheet metal i decided to start on the upper part and will work downwards, the first parts was easy, cut it straight and then cut and formed it as i wanted , tomorrow i plan to weld it in place, i also can weld the exhaust header, more to come


Today i started by welding the two pieces together and grounding them smooth, then i ground the paint of the edges, and welded it in place, ground it smooth, after some seam seal and paint should look like factory. Then i started removing the heater matrix, the matrix pipes, i really wanted to keep the heater but simply no room, i'm keeping the blower, to be able to bring fresh air in the cabin, and then started breaking the heater box to make room for the tunnel to be build, more to come


I Know it's been a long time since my last up date, last couple of weeks has been one step forward two steps back, thunderstorm knocked the power out, had a medical emergency, and after all that my brother's driving style( treading every car like a rental) couple that with the new found power from the rebuilt cylinder head it was too much for the clutch, and is back in the garage for a new valeo clutch set, by my reckoning the throw out bearing sized, and eat thru the pressure plate and destroyed the throw out bearing sleeve, more to come


Finally the little 206 is out of the garage, it did not helped the the passenger side axle seal decide to leak after the test drive with the new clutch, so i had to replace it, now the garage is empty but a mess, i'll be back working on the sheet metal soon.


Today i was finally able to work on the mi16 again, started by cutting even more metal out of the firewall, floor and subframe, my thoughts are if i have to change the engine or box i will have more room, therefore bigger tunnel, at first was going to making the tunnel round, but that means having to roll a big piece of 1.2mm steel, which is hard, then decide to make it square, started by making the dividing support, made it from 20x20x2 angle iron, which was quite expensive for what it was, place it in place, and started making the new firewall, used paper to make a template, transferred it to steel, cut it and use the press and bending jig to make the big bends, and bend the little edges by hand, and punch weld thru holes and started trimming it in place, now is roughly welded in i also made a little piece for where the A/C lines use to come out, there's more welding to be done, i had to stop, more to come


You've heard when it rains it pours, well we had an enormous freak storm, it hit about 20 km from me, and is not over, we will have one more tonight and tomorrow, you can search:Macedonia storm 07 08 2016. Once things come back in normal i'll be back to work on the mi16.


Things are settling down, the freak storm took 21 lives, i decided to work on the tunnel, started by bending all the edges, to be able to weld the tunnel, to the body, then i made a paper template, then cut it in steel and bent it, then i used couple of jack's to spread it in place and weld it in place, i caught the insolation on fire, almost burn the car down, got couple burn blister no my hands from putting it out, at the end used a CO2 bottle to extinguish it, no big deal, now i need to make one more piece and be done with the sheet metal.


Today i continued working on the trans tunnel, started by cutting more metal out to make it square, starts with tin snips, to avoid sparks and starting another fire, then use hammer and dolly to bend the edges and punch holes for welding, then i made the metal piece, had to make it that shape because i want to install the original center console, and started to weld it in place, it fits nicely, i need to finish welding it, may not be the most beautiful but should do the job, more to come.


Everyday jobs have keep me away from working on the mi16, also other home jobs made the garage a mess, so today i finally found some free time to clean the garage so i can resume work and get it finished. You can see there was no place to work or move around, the rear axles are for a another project that i need to finish before the winter begins, it includes peugeot xud9 engine, but i'm not sure if is it appropriate for this forum, in the meanwhile i've been sourcing more parts for this build like a bigger intercooler couple of fans, and other miscellaneous parts that i was missing, now that the garage is clean i can continue work on this project, more to come


Today i put a solid day of welding on the car, started with the exhaust header, then turn on the engine mounts, i'm particularly proud of the gearbox mount, then moved to repair the rusted piece in the passenger wheel well, first cut and clean all the rust then made a paper template, then made it in steel, and then weld it, then started welding on the new passenger side subframe, then i weld the sway bar mount this took some time because all the sides had holes so i had to plate them, then i cut the front frame straight and plated it with 2mm steel same thickness as the frame, last thing i did is dropped the steering rack not to damage it, more to come.


Today is independence day in my country so i had some time to spend in the garage, i put in about 8 hours of welding, first i finished the tunnel, i need to test fit the engine before i protect the new tunnel, then i started on the drivers side subframe, there was a lot of welding there, as a final job i decided that i should remove the extra steering shaft joint, to connect them i got out my spare steering shaft cut it to extend the one on the car, more to come


Today i reinstall the engine in the engine bay, to check for clearance, it wasn't the smooth install, it fall from the engine crane when i bolted the gearbox mount, so when it drop it rip the mount, so i will order a new one, it clears everything and it has more than enough space all the way around, i'm thinking about installing one more engine roll stop on the passenger side, when the engine torques it won't move too much


I've mentioned in a previous post that i've got a bigger intercooler for this build, i've been so busy i haven't even looked at it, to day i offer it to the car and is little too big, way to wide to run it behind the grill, and the shape of the mi16 bumper, the air grabber is low on the bumper, so i need to position it there, i would like to position the pipes in the upper position, because lines up perfectly in pipe diameter and location to the turbo, but hit the mainframe if i flip it it will fit with a little cutting, but i don't like the 50mm side to go to the intake, i'm wondering if i can make new aluminium tank for one side and weld it without destroying it from the heat.


Today i put in couple of hours work on the mi16 one of the jobs left was to make a hole for the shifter and test fit it, started by installing the center console to find the center for the shifter, the console was hitting the back of the tunnel so i cut notch it and made a plate so close it, for now i just tack welded in place, then i started on the shifter hole, started with a hole saw but it was too small and wouldn't go thru, then i drilled the pilot hole to 32mm biggest notch on my step drill to use as guide, then marked it and drilled many small holes, then removed the mid and use a file and hammer and dolly to finish it, now it fits the saxo rubber gaiter, this should seal good, the next 3 hours pass to fast to photograph, i had to redo the entire shifter mechanism, because it was hitting the tunnel, i still have an hour work to finish the mechanism, and weld the end piece, more to come


Update time, progress on the project is slow, had to prep the yard and house for winter, so my spare time is going there, don't worry i should be back working on it in couple of days, i have to protect the bear metal and then pressure wash the entire floor pan so i can undercoat it, thats has to happen quickly because winter is coming, more to come.


Lately i've more busy than ever, but i'm using every spare minute i can, after seeing that i can't use the factory manifold for the turbo, i decided to make the turbo manifold from scratch, couple of mounts ago i made a flange for the turbocharger, next is the flange for the exhaust ports on the engine, i spend an hour marking this piece of metal, and then i center punch all the holes, then pilot drill them and after that i drill them with the final size for the bolts, this will allow me to bolt i to the head so i can make a jig for the turbo manifold, i don't plan to built it now but i should make the jig now when the engine bay is dirty and not detail.


Today i had some time to spend on this project so decided to make one more engine roll stop, i don't want engine vibration but also don't want the engine to move too much, the drivers side is supported on two places, on passenger side both mounts bolt to the engine with 3 bolts, and when the engine torques it will go to the right, so this is the design i come up with, started with 3 pieces of flat stock to make the flange to the engine, then i started on the other flange thet bolts the engine mount to the frame, for it i used two bigger pieces and weld a bolt in the back to make it easy to install and remove, then i mock it in place and fully welded it, in the background u can see where i started poisoning the turbo, stuff like this do take some time, more to come.


Today i begin working on the inlet manifold, last time a friend of mine welded for me, i didn't like the way it came out, so decided to redo it, started by opening the throttle body flange, for the bigger throttle body, then i cut out the ugly pice and formed a new piece, then started cutting back the welds and removed the black paint, did not finish it, had to stop, also made new intake gaskets from AFM 200, more to come.


Today i decided to mock up the intercooler and radiator, first i mounted the rad support and front bumper, first i check in front of the support but is way too wide, it intrudes on the headlights, then i mounted it behind the support it fits nicely, it has enough space for the cooling radiator too, i need to make mounts for both and extend the shroud to funnel air flow, i also check the hood clearance, it seems to be very close to the outside screen of the hood, not sure if is inner structure there, if it hits i have to make some sort of hood scoop, i had those fans from a 305 if i wasn't able to use the factory ones, but this way is better, more to come.


Today i started where i left yesterday, marked where i need to clarens the radiator support then removed and stored it and the bumper, then started on mocking up the turbo, because of the 30 degrees tilt of the engine there is absolutely no space, had to place it further back than i liked, and the flanges touch, so decided to tack welded together, after that i removed the turbo and the flanges, that was the last thing i needed to mock up, so i started removing the engine and box, started by removing the shifter, then supported the engine and started unbolting the engine mounts, then i unbolted the front brake calipers just moved them over and removed the knuckles and shocks, on order to be enabled to drill the rod end tapers from the lower side, the plan going forward is to make more permanent steering rack mounts and better steering shaft, the weathers been cold last couple of days, and my health is acting up, so i may wait for a day or two to become better, all the work i need to do now is upside down on the cold garage floor, more to come


Today the weather was warm, so i've put in a 12 hour work on this project, most of the work was done from underneath, ground down all the welds, trim the edges that were protruding, hummer them flash and welded them,after the mount the steering rack and made stronger mounts for the rack, then made a new direct steering shaft, had to make a new hole for it to pass because the rack is so lower in the frame, actually made two holes the first was a miss, then i redrill the tapered holes for the steering rod ends, then i pressure wash the knuckles and shocks and spray them with anti rust solution to kill the rust, use the same solution on the new tunnel and you can see how it kills the rust in couple of minutes, i'll leave it overnight to neutralise the rust.

This was one of the hardest days working on this project, i've got red eyes couple of dozens burns from the welder, but i'm happy how it turned out, if i have time tomorrow i'll seam seal every seam and spray black primer on the new steel, more to come.


Working long hours is not uncommon for me my personal record is 8 days hard work without sleep, i have a question have you had power steering fluid boiling problems, i'm at that stage do i keep the stock siple tube power stering cooler or i upgrade, i have had the fluid boil on this car twice it seems to happen when driving high rpm city turn to turn driving, for coolers i have those two, the bigger one i plan to run for the oil, the smaller should be more efficient than the stock tube type, what is your experience?

The original P/S cooler is underneath the driver's feet, i'm not that concerned for space there is enough space to go 4 coolers back to front because the engine is moved so far back, today i seam sealed all the welds, i used an entire package of seam sealer, more to come.


Today i spend couple of hours in the garage preparing and painting the new metal now is all protected, i also painted the knuckles and shocks, more to protect them form rust, the plan now is to get the knuckles and shocks installed, car back on the wheels, and push it out and pressure wash the engine bay and floor pan, to be able to undercoat the new metal and thin spots on the floor pan, and then decide is the engine bay bad enough to be painted, i'm not sure but it seems peugeot painted the wheel wells same color as the paintwork may do them as well, should be fun cleaning all the old grease and grime, more to come.


Update for today, due to colder weather the paint is drying slow, this means the garage is full of paint fumes, did not want to work in fumes, so decided to buy all paint supplies to paint and protect the engine bay, more to come.


Today it was a long day in the garage, thankfully the new paint is dry and there are no more paint fumes, so next thing was to put the interior back together, i started with the carpet and the door seal molding, then the center console, then the dash extensions, had to trim them little, then i bolted the seats, and put the floor mats back, that finish is the interior, then started on the engine bay, remove the ECU box, wiper blades and their mechanisms, washer bottle, and the little plastic piece for the fresh air in the cabin, then made a temporary block off plate to avoid water getting in when i pressure wash it, then found couple of caps to block off the rest of the holes and use red silicone to seal them, the plan is to get it on the wheels ready to roll out of the garage by the weekend, weather cast predicts 20 degrees cruzis, so i can pressure wash it and wet send it, before then i have to assemble the front suspension, and get it on is wheels, more to come


Today i spend couple of hours sealing all the connectors, hoses and other openings in preparation for the pressure washing, then i install the front suspension, brakes and the wheels, after that i had to clean the garage and the floor under the car there were many sharp pieces and mig wire pieces, last thing i did is to lower the car on the floor, after couple of months its on the ground, tomorrow plan is to clean right bay of garage so i can put the little kei car for the winter there, more to come.


Today the weather was good, little cloudy but nevertheless i pull the mi16x4 outside to pressure wash it, the washing took me couple of hours and i got pretty wet, i had to pressure wash the floor pen and engine bay twice with industrial strength degreaser to take most of the grime off, in the pictures you can see my driveway is little steep so the mi16x4 raised the driver side tire in the air, also the little kay car is now next to this project, i don't plan to drive it in the winter, this way should be out of the elements, when mi16x4 dries have to prep the shiny paint for repainting, the factory paint seems to be very thin, more to come


The car is drying so i had some free time i went looking for a turbo badge, i did not want the generic china chrome crap, and after visiting couple of breakers i found this, it is from a peugeot 306 used to say turbo D, i cut the D now do i move all my badges and put it last, do i put it down below the body line or i replace X4 with the turbo?


Today i decided to do little work on the throttle body, i had a hose nipple that i tap before for a plug, but decided to re drill and retap to be installed GM air temp sensor, in preparation for when i get a stand alone ecu, more to come.

i've got a question, i want to reuse my LPG Propane system, but i don't like the location where the shop that install it place the inlet nipples they drill and tap them from the top and notch the head opening, i like to place them underneath the inlet manifold, my question is how it will affect the airflow, the nipples are tapered, so i can angle them like in the photo, any opinion.


Today i spend about 10 hour working, started by jacking the car up on jack stands, then i took all wheels off, then i wrapped the k car in plastic to avoid ruining the paint, then i wrapped the mi16x4 also, then started making everything, i got bored with the masking, so i took the front suspension off to avoid overspray now is detail, next in line is to make mounts for the expansion tank, finish masking and i found couple of rusty spots in the wheel arches, they need some attention, more to come.


Today the weather was nice so i decided to visit couple car breakers and found recently crash damaged, 405 series 1 probably 91 or 92, it was pretty gone, so i only took the better pieces, took the stering wheel it is lether, unfortunately it has two rips and the center cap is missing, but it can be recovered with new leather, also got the the shifter mehanizam this one has the cable for reverse so if i ever want to do a 6 speed swap i'll have it, also took all the door handles, fuel door, couple of pieces of trim, all in all good trip.


Today i started with cutting little piece of metal to make room for the coolant expansion tank, then drilled two holes for the mounting pins of the tank, this completes mounting the tank, then started sanding every painted piece, when my hands started to hurt, applied the undercoating, did two coats on the new metal and frame rails, next i need to finish sending and masking, painting should be easy, more to come.


Today was a long day in the garage, all the masking sanding left me with hurting hands and back, and the paint fumes gave me a good headache, the paint it shelf doesn't stink that much but the clearcoat is the worst, you can see in the pictures i painted everything in the engine bay that was black, and the wheel arches, now i can begin the reconstruction, more to come.


Today i remove the masking and laid the cables where they need to go, then started on mounting the gauges, made a holder out of a pipe, got a new speaker grill to which i plan to mount them, the new paint is dry but still soft for the next couple of days plan to do other small jobs to leave it time to dry, more to come


Today i continue with the gauges did the initial wiring with different color wires to be easy to connect later sorry no picture, then i started with the wiring for the cooling fans, had to mount the fan motors, changed one of them because it was very nosy, had to run a tap thru the fan mount treads, they had some rust in them, put some grease to avoid any rust in the future, i looked at the schematics to understand the how they work, so using a multimeter was easy to locate the wires, also changed the low coolant sensor plug, i'm using newer sensor located in the coolant expansion tank, more to come.


Well i'm at that stage more parts i put on the car better it looks, looks more like a car, that said every part that gets installed needs to be cleaned checked if needed repaired, so today started with engine mounts, then i mounted the coolant expansion tank and the power steering tank, both are cleaned inside and out and fit nicely, next in line was the windscreen wiper mechanism and a few little things, the other parts steel need to be cleaned, then i moved on to the engine took the rocker cover off and separated the gearbox, the plan is to paint both of them silver and then to do hydrographics on the rocker cover only, this is the first time i've taken off the cover and it is pretty clean, by the looks the head has never been off the block and the camshafts and lifters are like new, now there is a lot of cleaning in front of me, more to come.


Today started by mounting the ECU box, abs ecu, wiper motor cover, washer bottle, had to install new hose for the washers the old one was hard dirty ugly the new one is silicone and is the same color as the old one, after that i installed the the grill under the windscreen and wipers, then i got the front suspension install also mounted the series 2 shock mount covers and wheel arches, then i wash the cam cover, most of the paint came off with just degreaser and power wash, but there are some stubborn spots, for them i use paint stripper and some of them steel did not came off, the magnesium cam cover is an new territory for me, can some one tell me if i need some kind of adhesion primer and could i use normal car primers and filler?


Today i continued with the cleaning of the valve cover, decided to sand as much of the oxidation that i can, so i used a DA sander on the bigger spots, a file on the fins, and sandpaper on the round sides, then i applied based sealer on both sides that should stop any more oxidation, then i masked the fins to avoid getting high build primer in between, then i applied 4 coats of high build primer to cover all the holes, then i turn my attention to the gearbox, first i washed it with gasoline then i smooth couple of spots and applied adhesion promoter and painted it silver, after the paint,i gave it a quick clearcoat to seal it, then i turn my attention to the exhaust manifold, first i ground down couple of welds, then i sprayed anti rust acid on it after it finish derusting, i painted it silver with heat resistant paint, i've noticed very little activity from another members of this forum, i know that sema 2016 is on now but what's up.


Today i continue with the valve cover, yesterday i put it in high build primer and late last night i wet sanded it, today i try hydrographics, but i was getting very bad results so in the interest of time i simply painted flat black and then used a metal fail to make the fins and numbers sine, it's not perfect but its way better than before, in the meanwhile when the paint was drying, i change the rubber o ring on the camshafts spray bars, which do not have holes for the camshafts, they only supply oil in the camshaft journals, i had only one voltaren o ring in that size so i used it on the supply others got rubber ones, the old ones are rock solid and crumbled, and i soaked the spark plug seals in some brake fluid they are not rock solid but can be softer, and this should soften them, then i masked the gauge pot that i made on top of the speaker grill, they fit better but the paint was still soft to fit it properly in the picture, i still have couple of things to do before the engine can be installed in the car for good, more to come.


Today i had lots of work to do out of the garage, but did not wanted to lose momentum on this project, so decided to put in two hours that i had, started by test fitting the new oil pressure sensor, the distribution block, at the moment i have a plug in it, but i plan to get the oil supply for the turbo from there, then i decided to relocate the LPG control panel, it is the same size as the switches, in its current poison the indicator stalk blocks the view, the top row of leds is the lpg level indicator, the better space to install it is in the spare switch location but i already have my home build wideband air/fuel ratio led gauge, it works perfectly but i bought a gauge with digital display, so decided to remove this one, the trim panel with the hole needs to be replaced, i might have one, but i have to look for it in later date, the wiring in the fuse panel is a bit of a mess because i have couple of security systems and other devices just stuck in there, i will clean it up when the engine is in the car, that way i can test it as i go, also mounted and secured the gauge pot and run the wires to the fuse panel, then i started preparing the gearbox for mounting it, i installed the bleeder screw and the new stainless flex line, the hydraulic shop seems to have made the the line couple of centimeters shorter than i order it, and its now gone out of business, when i install the engine and box in the car this will be my first thing to test and connect to see if it will work, more to come.


Today i spend most of the day in the garage, did only a couple of things on this project, i had to redo the shifter, it was too close to the output shaft, and the old shifter was ugly, i runout of flat stock so i made the new of 10 mm C45 round stock, when i finish it i painted it black, also painted the driveshaft, the rest of the day i did lot of reorganizing of parts and other tings around the garage, more to come.


Today went searching for parts, bought couple of gearboxes for other projects, after unloading the boxes, started back on the valve cover, mix little acrylic 2k clear coat, and apply it on the fins, than i prepared everything to be enabled to instal the valve cover on the engine, degreased all the surfaces, applied silicone on the edges, clean the bolts, they are chromed, it seams peugeot spend some money to make those engines look good, no plastic beauty covers, then i installed the cover and tighten it in the correct order, from the middle out, then i prepared and mounted the gearbox, after that i mounted the exhaust manifold, some of those bolts are almost impossible to get a wrench on,  then i started mounting things that are going to be hard to access with the engine is in the car, like the crank posison sensor, starter motor, and then i made a extension plug for the reverse lights, this way should be simple as plug it in, i'm waiting on some heat wrap to arrive to complete that part for the engine to go in the engine bay, on second thought i may go to the hardware store and look for some kind of heat barrier insolation that i can use in automotive use, more to come.


Today first i went to the hardware store, only thing for heat shield was this 10mm rope, i'll probably replace it when the proper stuff arrives,  and then started mounting the engine, its becoming easily every time i do it and after more then 50 times it was in less than half an hour, then i connected the clutch line and bleed the system, the pedal feels strange, i have to adjust it and find a way to test it, after that i mounted couple more things like the coolant neck for the block, now i have to decide how to go forward, should i install the bigger pieces first and then shape the rest to adapt or should i start with the wiring loom and the shape the hoses and other pieces ?


Today i spend couple of hours in the garage, did lot of work on the intake manifold, did lots of grinding outside and inside, almost all done on the outside but for the inside it was much harder, and i'll have much more to do, when waiting for the tools to cool down, decided to install the shifter, it went in as it should and works perfectly, short and precise with the mechanical feel like the bolt action on a rifle, the intake is one of the last big pieces that need to be finished to be able to finish this project, on another note i was looking on the roadkill page they had a article for the italian, france car show, and looking thru the pictures, number 52 i see a mi16 engine with red valve cover and black inlet manifold, very familiar, than in picture 88 i spotted savo's mi16 with the hood up, looking great, i was very pleased to see such a deserving car getting the attention it deserves more to come.


Last two days I've spent a lot of time on the intake manifold, the reason is there is a lot welding slag and splinters, and being so tight i can use only air tools which don't take a lot of material quickly, so it a very slow progress, in between working on the intake, i did finish couple more things, first of which was to make a new panel for the center console, this use to be storage but now the tunnel is in the way, priestly i make one of wood and one of aluminium, to aluminium one distorted when i was cutting it so the new one i made from steel, little harder to work with but should hold its shape better, then i mounted the sway bar, all bolted as it should, and then i started mounting the cooler, intercooler and radiator, started by cutting little from the radiator support and mounted it to the car, then i started on tha radiator, and the bottom mounts were missing the frame so welded couple of mounts and drilled holes for the factory grommets at the end i painted them to stop them from rusting, i need to make couple of air ducts to channel the air to the radiator, as a priority i'm putting the inlet manifold because i need a friend of mine to weld it for me and that is one thing that is out of my control, so better done sooner than later, the interior panel is all done and painted and apart from couple of gauges interior is completed and the engine bay is coming along also, more to come


The last couple of days have been very busy for me, but i've been using every free minute to finish anything i can on this project, some of the things i did was, i install a new distributor cap and wires, then i install the battery tray and the LPG ecu after that i started laying the engine wiring to see how they fit and quickly realized that the hole where the engine ecu wires pass thru is gone, is use to be where the distributor cut out is, so i drill a new one next to the one for the abs wiring, then i started with the air bleed hoses, at first i reuse the original mi16 hose that use to go from the throttle body to the radiator, i placed it to go from the top of the thermostat housing to the expansion tank and was going to cap the other nipple, then decided to run another line from what use to be the backside, there was a bleeder screw so i just find a fitting to tread in the M6 treads and from there it was a simple hose to connect them, the intake manufolt is taking very long time to preper for welding, more to come.

Today i finally finished grinding on the intake manifold and i made a new piece to cover the hole, only thing left is to have my friend weld it for me, also spend couple of hours on the wiring, i clean some of it but i have way to go, basically all the wires that use to go behind the engine are cooked, and are been replaced with new ones, i also relocate the fuel pump fuse and relay in the ecu box and that left me about 1,5 meters extra ecu loom that i need to hide somewhere, i also finish the new center console cover, the temp gauge corresponds with the temp sensor i install in the differential the center pressure gauge is going to be connected to the coolant system, this is something i've learned to observe over the years and last simple voltmeter to fill the hole, i may install another temp gauge for the gearbox or exhaust temps, the black switch on the left is a high amp switch for the second fuel pump, the illuminated blue switches are for manually switching the cooling fans, 1 speed and 2 speed, and the the last is empty, to be use later, i've wired them to a connector to be easy to remove them if i have to remove the console, it was a long day my hand are all swollen from the grinder kicking back and my ears are ringing from the compressor, more to come.


Today i had to undo some of the work i've done yesterday, had to remove the battery tray, i had a lot of space there and it is close to the coolant supply, so i place the LPG evaporator there, making the bracket was easy, then i went thru all my rubber lines and find a coolant line that will do the job, in which i installed the coolant temp sensor for the lpg, then tried using the lpg supply copper line which was too long, so again i had to go thru my supply of hard lines and found a shorter one, after bending it i placed it to be as invisible as possible, next in line should be power supply cables, i like to replace them because the old ones have marks from stuff rubbing on them but i don't know what gauge wire go get, stock one seam to thin, more to come.

Last night temperature dropped down to  -3 celsius, i'm sure someone will laugh but for this parts that's cold, so i stayed out of the garage, warmer days are coming soon i'll be back working on it.


Today i started by rooting the engine ecu wires and cable tied them in place also installed the ecu and the fuel pump relay fuse all in the ecu box now is full, then i installed a ground strap on the passenger side engine mount, after that i installed one more on the on the drivers side, i like using this style ground straps, they can take decent amount of amperage, and last long time, then i installed the main ground cable directly to the starter bolt, also installed thick cable to the top ot the shock absorber bolt and installed the strut bar i made couple of months back, than i spend 4 hours on the wiring and used two entire rolls insulation tapes, replacing wires, elongating wires, replacing connectors, routing wires, away from heat and sharp things, i had to stop there i'm waiting on the the intake manifold to be enabled to route all wires and hoses, more to come.


Today i did some fabrication, i made a dual fuel filter holder bracket, as i have already installed dual fuel pumps i need two filters and i'm running out of space back their, best place i found is next to the hydraulic cylinder that is just enough space for two filter so the bracelet i made brings them as close as possible, and i need a way to attach them to the car, i may leave attaching them when i'm doing the exhaust so i can weld the bracket to the subframe, i've had bad experience with fuel leaks and that is why i'm going to such an effort to make i right, more to come.


I've been at a standstill last couple of days because of the inlet manifold, and finally my friend was enable to weld it for me, when welding we had an old weld crack, so we welded over the old welds to ensure no more cracks or leaking, now i have little more modifications to do to it, and make it look better, i'm tempted to smooth it and paint it silver, also got the drive shaft flange welded, tig welding is the way to go when precision and strength is needed, i plan to work on the inlet manifold next couple of days till i finish it, more to come.


Today i worked on the intake manifold, first i smooth the inside then i smooth the outside then i drilled and tapped the throttle body, for the engine crank pressure system, then i drilled and tapped couple more vacuum ports, i don't like splitting vacuum lines, after that i drilled tapped and filed flash the LPG nipples, now they are smooth so they don't affect the air flow, the plan going forward is to spray the entire manifold in high build primer to make it smooth and then paint it silver, more to come.


Today i stayed on plan and continued working on the intake manifold, late last night i pressure wash it, and it dried over night, today i clean it with paint prep the masked it, after that i applied adhesion promoter, and then i sprayed couple of coats of high build primer, it's thick and should come out smooth, now it has to dry and shrink before sanding, more to come.


Last two days i've been wet sanding the inlet manifold, it's not perfect but it should do the job and not look so ugly, i've just finished painting it silver to match the body color, it needs to dry well and i can resume assembly, more to come.


Today i've worked my fingers to the bone, laterally 12 hours working around the engine, had to run all new coolant hoses for the Lpg evaporator, oil cooler, then extend the wires that didn't reach, all of this just to be enabled to install the intake manifold, there's a lot of hoses and wires under it and i was planning to install the LPG injector there, but there was simply no space left for them, so i put them on top and run the hoses to the bottom, after i install the intake i install the fuel injectors, rail AN6 fittings, oil cap, idle valve, ignition coil, throttle body, i've run into many difficulties assembling them, wich i've resorted but i have couple more, one of which is the throttle position sensor, and the airbox, there is no space for the airbox so as much i hate i'll have to run a cone filter, more to come.


Today i started by resorting couple of problems i had yesterday many around the intake, started by listing the bosch sensor catalogue and manage to find sensor with a wire and same characteristics now the conector can reach, i did not want to cut and extend the sensor wire that will change the ecu readings, than i made this adapter plate from AFM to 75mm cone filter, more to come.


This was easier solution and i had the sensor sitting around so i used it, lately it seems everything takes much longer than it should, figuring out the intake location and finding parts it's been difficult, the throttle body flange is 83mm and AFM 68mm and needs a tight elbow and i need to connect a hose there for the idle valve and crank pressure, today i finally was able to find this aftermarket elbow so this should be my intake side, i still haven't test fited it but should work, there are couple of hard dirty jobs to be able to finish this project, more to come.


Today winter arrive, overnight temperature drop in negative, and we got the first snow, so i did not spend too much time in the cold garage but i managed to assemble the drive shaft and remember Rabin's advised to use little grease to avoid boot failure, wanted to install it but i'm missing half of the bolts that mount it, so i'll try to find some tomorow, also i had to replace couple of light bulbs, not sure is it the quality or the conditions, but i'm replacing 2-3 bulbs a day, more to come.


Today the temperatures dropped even lower but i keep the momentum going on this project, started by offering up the intake that i had mocked up, but it was to long it was hanging out of the hood, so i cut back the silicone coupler as much as i could, and found another coupler that i also cut down to make it fit, next thing was to make a mount because there is almost no space for the silicone coupler to move i decided to mount the AFM solidly to the throttle body that way the entire intake can move with the engine, the bracket or shelf took couple of tries started trying to make it from one piece, there wasn't enough material, then after screwing up couple of pieces this one came out close so i weld it and finish it smooth, i have to do one more thing to finish this intake, that is to drill and tap a large hole in the throttle body, because there is no easy way to attach it to the silicone coupler for the idle valve and valve cover breather, more to come.


Small update today i spend an afternoon going parts store to parts store looking for the driveshaft bolts, they are specific strength 12.9 and length and no one has them in stock so i visited couple of car disassembly places and they had them but not removed, and did not wanted to get dirty and wet removing them, so i had to get underneath a 4x4 i chose it because it was the driest and highest to make easy acces, at the end i got them, couple of stores offered me grade 8 bolt but i know first test drive i'll would have snapped them, little clean up and i can install them, more to come.


Today i decided to measure the temperature of the floor on the garage, and even i was surprised it measured( -5,7) celsius that is cold, never the less i started by cleaning the bolts i got yesterday, the best way to clean bolts i've found is to put them in a glass jar with a hand full of smaller nuts fill it with gasoline and shake it, all the grease and grime comes off, after that i lay a piece of trunk carpet and lay on it and install the driveshaft, for some reason the CV boot seams very close to the shifter linkage witch is strange, next i disassemble the intake, then i drill and tap an M18x1.5 and screw in a big nipple, decided to go with a screw in nipples to avoid leaks and they should hold up better then the press in ones under boost, as a final job i painted the bracket with primer, not sure which color to pain it, more to come.


Today i've put in lots of hours working on the car, started with making mounts for the power steering pump, this took couple of hours and decided to finish the power steering system, first found a new supply oil hose, then i installed return line from the steering rack, and then band and install the high pressure line, had to make a loop to be able to move with the engine, and had to make a bracket for the line, and the original mi16 bracket fitted like factory, had to drill and tap a new hole, this way is properly supported because the radiator will be close i wrapped the lines in heat resistant insulation, then i made a restrictor for the vapor recirculation and found and installed the rest of the intake and vapor recirculation also maunted the AFM and filter, then i mounted the new fuel regulator and made an AN6 hose from the fuel rail to the regulator, this i the first time i'm assembling AN hoses, they are easy to assemble, last thing i mounted was couple of sensor, it's starting to look like a complete engine almost, i have a question, the alternator has one more wire is for sensing the voltage, where to connect it in the wiring loom?


It's been two weeks and i haven't had any free time to work on finishing the car, and it's frustrating because is so close to being finished, so i've made the decision tomorrow to use every minute that i can to work on the harder thing first and start buttoning every system on the car one by one, more to come.


Today didn't go as planned, i started working on the fuel system started mocking up the fuel filters and got dirt in my eye, its far from the first time it's happened but i wasn't able to remove it, so i went to a eye doctor, and had to wait in a line half a day, so only work that got done is i installed couple of silicone vacuum lines, the gray one is for sensors, and the two blue are for fuel regulators, LPG and petrol, only open vacum port is for the power brakes, more to come.


Happy new year and happy christmas to you all, i really should stop predicting timelines for finishing projects, because it seems i can't keep them, in the meanwhile santa left couple of presents for this project, in form of exhaust temp gauge and proper titanium heat wrap, this couple to the Air/fuel gauge should allow me to properly tune a mixture and stop me hurting the engine, on another note we got proper winter weather now -10 to -20 centigrade and lots of snow, this is the first time in my life i've had to use a shovel to clean my cars.


The weather started to linger around the zero and i start to spend some time in the garage, but not working on this project, my brothers little 206 started to sound like a train when stopping and started locking up the wheels easy, i'm sure his driving style doesn't help, so i had to replace the brake pads and shoes and had to cut the rear drums, had a hell of a time trying to get them off, adjuster bolt stuck and had big ridge on the edge, you can see, new to me lathe that i bought, it's a 1K62 has a 10kw main motor real beast.


Yes Mike i do like it, you can see by the finish it leaves on the brake drums, may be old but is very powerful and precise.


Today i had couple of hours to spare, most of the i spend cleaning the parts room, which was a mess, i also did this, removed the thick fire rope and wrapped the exhaust header i proper titanium heat wrap, it should help with under hood temperatures, it wraps nicely but need to be pulled tight to avoid wrinkling, the stainless steel tai wraps that came are too short so i had to couple two to reach, and use a stainless hose clamp at the end, more to come


Today i had a real plan, i'll hurry back from skopje and i'll start on the fuel system, half way back on the highway just as i speed up i heard very loud noise from the side windows like someone is throwing rocks at me, stopped and this is what i found, the windshield moldings somehow got unglued, and the metal clip in the middle was gone, andstarted whipping on the windows, this being my daly had to fix it, so instead of working on the mi16, i end up spending two hours gluing the molding and finding a spare molding for the middle, while waiting for the glue to set i managed to assemble the AN6 fitting on the braided line, and i decided to use rubber line for the return because there is very little pressure in the return line, more to come


Today i've put in couple of hours of work on this project, started with the fuel lines, i was able to connect the return line at the regulator and hard line without any problems, but the supply line was hitting the ignition coil bracket, so i had to remove the coil and trim the bracket, and then i was able to connect it to the fuel rail, and started mocking up the fuel lines, but i'm missing couple of fittings, so i moved on the radiator hoses, and i was able to find all hoses only one needs a coupler in the middle, more to come.


Today i started by finishing the cooling system, after i connected all the coolant lines i decided to do a pressure test before i fill the system with coolant, started with the hand pump but i wasn't getting any pressure rise so i grabbed a nitrous bottle and a regulator and connected it, there where many loose hose clamps, i had to remove the battery tray to access some of them and after an hour tightening every hose clamp, the system was holding 1 bar of pressure without leaks so i filled the system up with G12 coolent and i had a leak, that is really strange, holds air but leaks liquids, decided to leave it, it should stop, after that i mounted the intercooler and radiator support, after that mounted the fans and passenger side headlight left the drivers side one because i need access to the wiring there, then i reinstall the battery tray, you can see all the space available in front of the engine now, it should make for easy timing belt replacement, more to come.


Today i started by finishing the cooling system, after i connected all the coolant lines i decided to do a pressure test before i fill the system with coolant, started with the hand pump but i wasn't getting any pressure rise so i grabbed a nitrous bottle and a regulator and connected it, there where many loose hose clamps, i had to remove the battery tray to access some of them and after an hour tightening every hose clamp, the system was holding 1 bar of pressure without leaks so i filled the system up with G12 coolent and i had a leak, that is really strange, holds air but leaks liquids, decided to leave it, it should stop, after that i mounted the intercooler and radiator support, after that mounted the fans and passenger side headlight left the drivers side one because i need access to the wiring there, then i reinstall the battery tray, you can see all the space available in front of the engine now, it should make for easy timing belt replacement, more to come.


To my knowledge the shafts between gearbox and transfer case is the weak point, that's what failed on my car, the gearbox internals are same as any 405 BE3 gearbox only the casting is different to be able to bolt the transfer case to it, the transfer case is different for the mi16 as it contains the viscous coupling, base models are 50% front and 50%back and had the option to lock the transfer case via actuator motor, and some base models had the ability to lock the rear diff also with a cable and actuator motor, the mi16x4 got the torsen diff, others had open diff, the series 2 with 4x4 are much more rare, there was the 405 T16 which future the same 4WD system as the mi16x4, but with more power from the turbocharged cast iron block 2 liter engine there are about 1000 T16 made, as for interchangeability between parts the shaft from the gearbox is the same on all 405 4x4 but the shaft in the transfer case is only interchangeable between mi16x4 and T16, the base models with 4x4 system are less prone to breaking those part because they have less power and smaller tires, there's specialist on the net that make parts they claim can make the 4wd system bulletproof, but they are out of my price range, if you are looking for the ultimate 405 to import, it would be 405T16 made in 1996, the 1995 car have electrical issues, problems with the hydraulic clutch and driveshaft failure, is a driving machine i've owned many 405's and can tell you that the 4WD cars feel much more solid, the fwd models are let down by the rear suspension is harsh on small bumps and seam to bounce and lose grip easy when hitting a crack in the road or rail tracks, the 4wd have hydraulic rear suspension no torsion bars no shock absorbers, the 4wd have incredible grip at any speed, i've put in half turn of steering lock at 160 km/h to avoid an accident and the car responded like a champ, no understeer, no oversteer, that is the good ting, but it uses about 10-15% more fuel, i know this because i've driven my car with the same engine as 4wd and fwd, and it takes more effort to steer as a 4wd and is heavier, my measured 1350 kg with 1/4 tank of fuel. I'm going to post pictures of the shafts that failed on my car tomorrow.

Today i spend couple of hours working on this project, i put couple of liters of fresh fuel and tested the system, has couple of leaks, so i went underneath tighten up couple of clamps and span half an hours tying back all the wires hoses hydraulic lines, after that i tested both fuel pumps and set the fuel pressure to 3 bar, i've had problems with fuel leaks on this car of and on ever since i have it, after the i started on the exhaust, installed the pieces the i mocked up before and it seems i'll have to move couple of them and make all new mounting points, more to come.


Today i spend couple of hours working on this project, i put couple of liters of fresh fuel and tested the system, has couple of leaks, so i went underneath tighten up couple of clamps and span half an hours tying back all the wires hoses hydraulic lines, after that i tested both fuel pumps and set the fuel pressure to 3 bar, i've had problems with fuel leaks on this car of and on ever since i have it, after the i started on the exhaust, installed the pieces the i mocked up before and it seems i'll have to move couple of them and make all new mounting points, more to come.


Today i had only a few hours to spend on this project, because of that i started with the brake power booster vacuum hose, then started with the main power cables and as always some of them are an inch short so i cut them back and crimp a piece copper pipe and will solder it later, i plan to do some more work tonight so i may write one more update today.


Yesterday and today i did some more wiring and decided to try starting the engine, first had trouble with the battery and attached starter box and a charger, then the engine fired for a second, and died, then started to lock up, so i hot wire the second fuel pump and could hear what sounds like fuel is running inside the engine, so i'm thinking a fuel injector is leaking also the fuel system is not holding the pressure, letter today i'll remove the fuel rali and see whats what, more to come.

It's official the Mi16 runs, pull the fuel rail and injector number 4 is stuck open and is spraying full cone, good thing i have 6 injector so i just swapped it and the car fired up on the first crank, there was a lot of fuel already in the engine, the tachometer doesn't work for some reason but more Important the clutch works, press on the brakes and in gear letting the clutch it is stalling the engine, this is great news, i couldn't imagine having to remove the engine again to do something with the clutch, more to come.


Last couple of days i've been working on the exhaust, started by mounting the rear part that i've already welded, it just needs hangers welded to it, so i made couple hangers from 8mm round rod, and from there continued installing and mounting the rest of the system, had to cut couple of new pieces to be able to move the muffler not to melt the CV boot, then i removed the entire system and started to weld all the pieces together, taking photos underneath is hard and they don't came out good so i took only couple, more to come.


Today i spend couple of hours welding the exhaust, it was much harder than i thought, welding old rusty new, thin and thick pipes wasn't as easy as all new pieces, then i weld 3 bungs, 2 for oxygen sensors, one for exhaust temp, then i grounded the worst of the welds and painted the whole exhaust with high temp exhaust paint, more to come.


Today i continue with the wiring and manage to wire the gauges and a few accessories, i need to find the diagram from my security system to find the siren wire, and couple of sensors on the exhaust, make an adapter for oil pressure sensor, and to wire up the second fuel pump and diff temp sensor, more to come.


Today i started by making an adapter coupler for the oil pressure sensor, started with a 24mm hex, first drilled an 6mm hole thru, then i turn down and threaded for M16x1,5 the i installed it on the engine to mark where to place the sensor hole then i use the lathe to drill and tap for both sensors, it was very tight to tighten the adapter and sensors, then i got underneath the car to install the exhaust and wasn't able to fully install it, in the process of welding it moved, and had to cut it, and will weld it together in place, and a new problem seem to come up, the brakes seem to go to the floor, feels like air in the lines, not sure how air can get in a sealed system, has anyone had similar experience?


Today i've put in a full day of work on this project, started by cutting and welding one more piece to connecting the exhaust, then i install the two oxygen sensors and temp sensor, after connecting the electrical for the oxygen sensor for the ECU i started fitting the front end, light, grill, bumper, horn, then i run the engine and found couple of problems, the first is that alternator is not charging, then the LPG is not working, when switching to lpg engine dies, one of the AN6 fuel fittings seems to be leaking and most annoying the Tachometer is not working, i'm suspecting bad connection in the plug located near the air box, but i need to find a wiring diagram to know which wire i'm looking for, also he hood seems to warp a little, not sure why or how, it was properly stored and the engine actually fits underneath, thats a good thing, i hated to have to lose the smoth lines of the stock look, more to come.


Last two days i've put in many hours finishing all the little things and was able to put the wheels on and lowed on the ground, the rear suspension won't go up, the pump i running and the reservoir is full of fluid, only thing i can thing of the dump valve stuck open, i've never had problems with the hydraulics, so i need to learn how they work in order to fix it, i did manage to drive it forward and backwards in the garage, and the clutch feels nice, and bleeding the brakes fix them now they work, also the Tachometer is not working and is not charging, i check my wiring, the alternator was tested before installing it, any ideas what could cause a no charge situation, is a two wire alternator, i tried connecting the sens wire directly to the battery positive ?


Quick little update, one problem down, three to go, the Tachometer is now working, after measuring every wire for it turn out fuse number 5 was burned, new fuse and is working, now only the rear suspension, charging system and the LPG system to go and is ready for its firs test drive, did drive it backwards and forward in the garage, clutch feels good, definitely feels like a sport disc, is smooth and grabby, did try high start, and left two small tire marks so the torsen diff is locking, and the new bosch 0 280 155 712 injectors seem to keep the air fuel ratios spot on, of course i haven't put any load on it.


Today i've put in a whole day fixing the few things to finish this project and taking for its first test drive, first thing i did is to raise the back end and put it on jack stands, then switch the pump and tried hitting the pump and no success, then made a reservar which is pressurised with my air compressor and tried to force oil in the supply line, when i presurased the supply line the pump speeds but no oil is going in the pump up, check all the rubber lines, all are ok, after checking everything i can, then i moved to the charging system, remove the alternator and try bench testing it and it was not producing power, so i grabbed a another 120a alternator from my spars had to drill the power cable, the new one has much bigger power bolt, the space wasn't too tight, but the power cables are short so had to attach them in place, the belt needs little more tension, but it now produces 14 volts, also the LPG system is now working, there was only air in the system, now only the rear hydraulics to fix, i need to find how the pump is working, to be able to find what is wrong.


Today didn't go as planned, went out and barely was able to find LHM hydraulic fluid, it was much more expensive then i remember, next i assemble the pump and decided to test it, attached fluid to the supply side turn it on and it was not pumping then used the bottle that i pressured and forced fluid thru the pump and out of the high pressure side and even then with the pump running it wasn't pumping, i need to find some instruction or something to figure out what type of pump this is and what can cause this condition.


I know those type of pumps, but this one is not like that, this one has two ball bearings on eccentric race, only number i could find was this, this evening i went thru all the citroen specialists, and parts stores, no one has anything like this, i wash the pump with gasoline and was able to see that has two balls and tried the balls are stuck, blow out everything with compressed air and filled it with wurth rust off, i'll leave it over night and try cleaning it again tomorrow i can't disassemble it because the cap is swaged in couple of places, and i cant remove it without destroying anything, if you know some way to get the balls unstuck feel free to share.


Today i spent many hours working on this hydraulic pump, did everything i could to get the pump's balls moving and came to conclusion i have to take it apart to clean it and inspect it, spend some time making this clamp and i welded a bar and weight to use it as a slide hammer, but it was slipping, because the pamps part is very harden, then i modify locking pliers and welded the slide hammer to them, and finally it came apart without damaging anything, after inspecting it the tolerances are very tight, any grain of dirt would not allow it to function, all the parts are in excellent shape, no corrosion and very well built, tomorow i plan to put it back together and test it, more to come


Today i started by assembling the pump, i keep it extremely clean, then i bench tested it, then the struggles started mounting it in the car and putting everything back together, cycle it full up and down few times to push out the air, now works better than ever, is much quicker, and now somehow the front end is much higher then before, by my measurement is about 6.5 centimeters higher, it may settle down but may be because i moved the engine and gearbox so much back in the cabin.


Today i took the mi16x2 now for its first test drive, started by dumping the clutch at 2500 rpm, to shock test the driveline and left two solid tire marks in the garage,it was happy to keep spinning but i lifted off, drove it and was down on power, first thought was a bad fuel injector, pull it in and changed them for the oem ones, and no change, then i transfer it on LPG (propane), the power came back so i might have missed the order on the petrol injectors, never less drove it couple of miles, and the steering needs some work, the bump steer is very bad and i can feel the dropped tie rod ends flexing, the rack it shelf feels nice, well weighted and communicates well, i may say better than the oem one and the brakes are awful, then i took the car to the spot where i took the photos before the conversion for some new photos, i need to fix the steering and the brakes, but for now i plan to have some time off the jack stands and i'm more busy  day by day, before i parked the car in the rear bay of the big garage i cleaned it, you can see the remains of the white line i made before i started the project, and the marks left by the fuel in the exhaust when i first started the engine and was full of fuel form the stuck open fuel injector, the front end came down exactly one centimeter, only 5,5 to get to where it was before.


I've been driving it little more now, to be honest i'm falling in love how it drives again. It really reminds me on the first couple of drives when i bought the car, i was afraid not to turn into a tail happy drift car, but it sure wasn't the case. The torsen diff grips extremely well, and it has that solid feeling, not the rubbery feeling of the bmw and mercedes, the pick up of the line is just as i remember it, first lifts the back up then the front end and goes, i still haven't tried high speed cornering but from my experience the balance is much improved, it has no understeer at all, and the back follows the front well, there's a little amount of flex in the chassis but it always has have it. All in all i'm satisfied with the results, not sure if i would recommend that much work to someone else but i would do it again if i have to.


Last night we had rain so i decided even the steering is not fixed to take this car to the spot where i used to drift it, and try to drift it, at first was holding a drift nicely, but as the tires warmed up and the surfaced dried it started to grip hard, it definitely needs more power to overcome the gear ratios, i thought the 405 are light at the back and i can do a little drifting  but i'm pleasantly surprised of how well the chassis is handling the big changes and my abusive driving so i'll have to look else way for drifting, also the hydraulic clutch and short throw shifter are definitely an improvement, sorry no pictures it was dark and wet .


I've had some time and did little more investigation, i thought the engine use to be more powerful but it's been so long since i've driven it hard that i don't remember, but my fuel/air mixture did seem to be all over, so i started changing injectors adjusting fuel pressure no change, then moved to the ignition, put in new bosch spark plugs new coil, and no change, but when i replace the igniter there was obvious change even starting it takes less time, after couple km driven my air/fuel started stabilizing and i can feel the ignition advance as it used to it really comes alive over 4k and pulls harder and harder, but this revealed a new problem, now i'm getting some serious axle hop, on high starts and burnouts, like is a live axle and has broken leaf spring, there was no hopping with less power, has anyone any experience what can be causing this or any fix?


All of yours suggestions made me want to troubleshoot this even further, so i called a friend got her to drop the clutch at 5k whale i was watching from the back, we did this couple of times, and found that first to vibrate is the drive shaft, than the exhaust and then the diff and mustache bar, after all that then the tires start to skip, but in the meanwhile the diff is bouncing like a pendulum, after i drop my friend off pull the car in the garage and hummer in couple of plastic wedges in those bushings, drivers side has a split and knowing i'll have to replace them taught should try, so with the wedges if i preload the drive shaft the cars leave like a missile very little vibration until the tires grip up and go's, this lasted maybe 5-6 times and the the hop return, when i got back home looked under and took those photos, the wages were gone, only small piece mushroomed was left, it seams the forces are quite big, also managed to measure the angle of the trailing arms, is between 10 and 12 degrees, now i need to figure out what to use in those bushings, even with the wages in there there was lots of vibrations and noise, which i hate, any thoughts?

The diff is mounted like that so the axles are straight on ride height, and the fuel tank is lower then the diff by couple of centimeters, SRDT is right with the hydraulics it never goes lower than this, no matter the load, the car looks higher on pictures probably, but on the lowest point at the fuel tank is only 7,5sm from the ground, but has no scraping issues, roads here are not the best, steep driveway high sidewalks never scraps, you can see on page 10 when i was washing it how steep my driveway is, that is not a problem, i'm not sure if i can found polyurethane here to make my own bushings, white plastics like teflon, nylon, delrin are available and i can turn one on my lathe in minutes, about the complexity, those cars were ahead of their times, and the ride they provide is superior to FWD 405, this is the main reason why i've been thru all this to save it and enjoy it.

The mustache bar is made from spring steel, one of the first jobs i did is to strengthen couple of spots back at the start of my build thread, its made to flex only back and forward but is stiff left to right, to resist twisting under load, and how accurate are smartphone dynamometers, i did a pull and the app showed 155kw crank on gasoline and 144 kw on LPG, and feels faster then ever with the long gearing it starts to move around (wheel spin) near redline, is this right, things done to the engine are reground camshafts, aftermarket fuel regulator, redesigned intake manifold, much bigger throttle body, cone filter, good flowing exhaust, remap ECU with a very agressive ignition map even with all of that 155 kw seam high?


No "whoop de doo" has ever put the diff in the ground, i've been accidentally airborne with this car and landed flat without even a scrape, the WRX behind me at the time broke a front control arm and crashed, that thing made a light show of sparks, lately i've been busy and have been waiting on heim joints, to be able to fix the steering the right way, but i've order left hand threads joints, forgetting i'm running a rack not a steering box, and now i have to buy a M12 left threading tap, or order a right tread heim joints, wich i may do, bigger should last longer and if i can put a rubber boot on them to look like OEM rod end.


Today i was finally able to find to buy a M12 left tap, also bought couple of carbide inserts for the lathe, with different geometries, funny thing here is that those inserts cost more then the gearbox i've used to do this converson, more to come.


Today i started to work on fixing the steering on this project, as you can see the steering wheel is straight and as i lifted one side you can see the bump steer, the wheel turns a lot, for mock up i use a scrap piece of steel and duct tape and i left around one centimeter clearance between the heim joint and wheel rim, after all the dimensions i took, i made the adapters, threaded one side M12 left other side M12x1,5, and two left threaded lock bolts, also cut open a factor rod end, to be able to measure the taper angle, so i can duplicate it on the drop adapters, more to come.


Today was a long day working on this project, started by machining a 7 degree taper and M10 thread, wanted to make it attach fully on the taper and to make full contact on the 22 mm hex stock, this meant machining and testfiting it on the car many times, then i machined the other side, put a 30 degree taper to relieve it to have more travel on the joint, then i machined a 24 mm head bolt with M12 threads, i did this as a safety, if the ball falls of brass socket it can't completely disintegrate i also put an 90 degree taper to allow more travel on the joint, i'll grounded the edge of the bolt in place to make more space between it and the inside of the wheel, i also made two 17 mm headed M12 bolts to lock the safety bolts, tomorrow i'll install them and test them, more to come.


Today i was finally able to finish mounting the new tie rod ends, and they won't work, i still have massive amounts of bump steer and they hit the inside of the rim on the inside edge, so i can't turn the wheel full lock, so there is no quick fix, i'll have to put the entire car on jack stands level remove the front springs and start moving steering rack and modifying the knuckles, i like the feel of this fiat rack and it has the lowest profile posible, so i'll keep it but may need to move it forward and do something like the drifters do to there cars to get more angle, in order to not rub on the wheels and remove the bump steer, on a happier note i drove it little and gave both 405's a happy 30th birthday wash, and as always the mi16x4 started to run lean i know immediately what is, this car has always had troubles with fuel leaks, even the stainless steel braided AN6 lines had leaks, so i put this fuel rated hose, it also developed a leak and the fuel pressure dropped, i must have some acid in the fuel tank or something that eats thru rubber, more to come.


I'm embarrassed to say i've left this project sitting since my last update but that's what's has happened, it's only gathering dust, i've been really busy working 3 jobs plas all the normal house and car maintenance has left me without a minute to spare, i'm accumulating parts for it and about dazent more small and big projects i have in the works and all of them are waiting for me to finish them, more to come.