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Giving a 405 Sport Wagon another chance
Compliments of my3AWDgst @ 505turbo.com
My MI16 turned out much better then I was expecting and I got an idea that would be very cool to have MI16 and Sport Wagon as well.Looking at my Wagon that is now a parts car I knew it would not be easy to bring her back from dead.
Well long story short Thomas called me one day and told me he just bought a 405 Sport Wagon,at that moment I told my self I have to go and see it.When I got there I saw that the car was in decent condition and it was worth spening some time and money in to bring her back. Looking at the car something was telling me that she will be mine some day :-) ,yes Thomas refuse to sell it to me but I kept asking and finally one day I got that phone call and the rest is history.
She does needs a lot of work but it's nothing that I can't do.My plan is to do MI16 swap,lower it,get nice set off wheels for it,window tint,HID's and paint.I'm taking it slow do to my other projects.
She does drive good but it will need front suspension work.O/D does not work and I'm sure it's because off broken speedo.
Can Admin move my progress photos to this thread please?
*edit* -- done.
i was going to post asking you if you planned to repaint the car at some point, then i saw this post. are you going to stick with the same color, or change it?
Things that I fixed so far:
1) Light bulbs in window switches.
2) Replaced bad switches.
3) Replaced passanger mirror.
4) Replaced light switch.High beams did not work.
5) Replaced bad conector for right low beam.It was dim at all times.
6) Replaced bad exterior bulbs and broken tail light.
7) Replaced fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter.
8) Replaced intank fuel pump.
9) Replaced wiper motor.
10 Replaced flasher switch and relay for no turn signals.
11) Replaced wiper switch for no intermittent operation.
12) Interior wash.
13) Trunk unlock mod.
14) Powder coated roof rack and wiper arms.
15) Replaced wiper blades and washer motor.
16) Painted winshield washer cowl.
I love the way pained cleaned up in door area.
This also cleaned up nice.
I fixed my stop light and cooling fan issue. Fans were coming on and off at high speed at random times. I also fixed starting proplem.
Replaced FPR,ECT sensor,fuel injection sensors,intank fuel pump,fuel filter,flushed coolant and replaced radiator drain plugs.
I did not like it at first but it definitely grew on me.
I got new battery,new dip stick and installed factory ground to replace home made parts.
Engine wash on sunday.
I replaced crankshaft sensor as well. Old have seen better days.
Savo's Peugeot's 2 California 0
Passed with flying colors today :-)
edit - fixed photo -- andré
I picked up replacment dash at Matcs when I was picking up Nicks 91 MI16 and yes it is XU9J4 donor for the Sport Wagon :-)
Last few weeks were very busy for me so I did not have a chance to work on the cars :-(
This weekend I will start on Dash,heater core swap.
I will also order Ford Focus SVT 300mm front rotors as they have the same bolt pattern as Pugs 4x108 and use 2g DSM AWD front calipers. This will be great brake upgrade for the price.
This made my day and no 17x9's for me this month :-(
Heater core started to leak so it's perfect time and weather for Dashboard swap.
Tomorrow I'll swap manual transmission pedals,cluch cable,heater core and all manual transmission shift linkages.
Well parts car heater core has evidence of leakage and no one has new one in stock :-(
However I ordered new 91 one pice speedo cable,all shift linkages,shift pivot ball,clutch cables and petal clip.
I still need to bring 91 MI16 out of storage to swap over cluster and shift knob mechanism.
I have not look for international supplier yet. I could see if one out of 91 is good but I would like to have new one,as everything else will be new. Yes 406 is using same heater core.
Rabin I'm sure it can be repaired but side plastic part of it would be still old unit and all those years of hot coolant makes plastic very brittle.
Replacing pedal assembly sucked,but at least it's DONE. I also replaced one pice 91 speedo,clutch cable and shift rod mechanism.
It took me whole Saturday just to get glove box repaired. Those 405 glove boxes are nightmare to pull in and out and cheap plastic that brakes so easy made me very furious.
I end up having two glove boxes,both broken on opposite corners so I end up cutting them in the middle and bonding them together to end up with one good working glove box. Also glove box latch was broken but luckily one on 91 was in good working condition.
After glove box repair everything else was straightforward install. I end up shortening shiftter rod to use DSM shift knob.
I also got 91 home to remove engine and gearbox,and that made 91's last ride :-(
You guys are more then welcome to stop by today and help out with engine removal :-)
I'll buy you your favorite beer and Pizza.
I got engine out of 91 today.I started late about 4:30pm and had it out by 9pm,I did it my self as usual :-)
Thomas wanted to stop by and help out but he's 89 Turbo broke down so he was busy trying to fix it.
I worked on a lot of grease engines but this one must to be in top three,this MI16 have lived hard life and was not worth saving. Everything needs attention and repair so I'm glad I made right decision to make it in to parts car.
I removed all engine brackets today and shipped them out to powder coater and now I have clear excess to engine and transmission so I can give it nice wash. Here are few pictures of how horribly dirty this engine is. Also here is the picture of axle before and after,so far I have 6 hours in removing and cleaning parts.
One thing cought my eye on cylinder # 4 onside of the head was what appears to be JBweld where head bolt goes through... I scraped if of but did not see damaged engine block so I'm not sure what was all that about. I'll investigate more after I give it good clean.
It looks like head bolt threads is damaged....
Few pictures of finished dashboard.
Today I swapped fuel sending unit out of 91 MI16 to Wagon as the one in the Wagon did not work at all times. Also I got three door panels cleaned up and installed,drivers front door panel is cracked :-( I'll end up using one out of parts car.
I need to droop of headliner at upholstery shop but there is soooooo many things do to and so little time in a day :-(
Headliner is at upholstery shop and good bye auto seat belts.
I'll definitely do that André. This is what I did so far.
1) Removed A and top B pillars as they will no longer be needed.
2) Removed top auto seat belt mechanisam.
3) Removed auto seat belts module under front seat.
4) Removed wireing from auto seat belt module to top auto seat belt mechanisam.
5) Removed secondary seat belts (under the front seats)
6) Buckles remain the same.
For installation I will update once I have headliner back.
Door panels are done. I did the best I could with what I had and thank god for parts cars :-)
Also I got exterior mirrors done(thanks to 91 MI16)
Headliner is done but I did not have a chance to pick it up :-(
I had to repaint A and B pillars to gray to mach the rest of interior,all MI16 that I have seen had light white-gray pillars regardless the color of the seats.
Picked up headliner from upholstery shop but I was not abled to fully finish it till I get seat belts from Marc. I did bolt up 89 seat belt adjustets to B pillars and all threaded holes were present.
I end up making gaskets for roof rack as old ones rooted. Also I mounted powder coated roof racks.
Scrubbed some of the parts today from 91 engine that will go in to wagon. Tomorrow will be 104*F so it will be fun scrubbing the engine :-(
Headliner is all done now,once I get the seat belts done I'll take photos with my camera. Interior turned out nice.
Yes they applied new fabric on original headliner,now the fabric was damaged really bad from sun and water so I picked out the material that was used in European cars. From what I can tell it is very close to original. It is high quality head liner,it has thin amount of foam on back of the fabric.
I used 3mm thick rubber pice that I found at work. End up working better then expected but by the time car is ready for paint I'll have new or good used set from Europe.
I got engine and transmission cleaned up. It took me about 10 hours but it was worth it. Once again I used Purple Power and tooth brush.
Here are few pictures with what I stared and how it end up.
This Saturday I'll work on resealing the engine and powder coated parts should come in by next Friday.
Installed MI16 front bumper,fog lights and better headlights. I also removed cruise control and engine bay fuse box for better look.
Seat belts came in. Can't wait to have normal seat belts,by late afternoon seat belt swap should be done.
And DONE :-) now I have normal seatbelts :-)))
I'll update pictures about conversion later.
I started to tint lenses,I'll finish rear ones on Saturday.
I found these on Chicago CL,I should have this sometimes next week. i'm hooping they will clean up nice.
Coilovers and powder coated parts are on the way. I also got all fluids needed,VW Tbelt tensioner,spark plugs,radiator cap,oil filter and injector seals at Napa.
That day is sooo close now :-)
Powder coated parts came in for XU9J4 swap :-) and I took Tuesday and Wednesday off to make this happened.
It was hot last two days but we got it done. I had big help from Thomas and Jarek with out them it would take me lot longer. Cleaning engine bay,replacing steering rack and resaling engine took lot longer then expected and pushed us four hours behind,about 2am today Sport Wagon got a new heart XU9J4. I'm extremely happy and excited.
Thomas took these photos.
WOOOOOTTTT She is alive :-))) runs like a champ. I worked till 5am this morrning to get it done and I got no crank and cooling fans were going 200MPH,so it was time to call it night. Right after World Cup ended I opened my wiring book to see what differences A/T and M/T had in cranking department. A/T had a few extra relay and with out neutral safety switch and ECU circuit was broken so all I had to do was to jump 46A to 46 wire and boom I got running XU9J4 sport wagon. M/T cars are using 2wire from ignition switch to 46 all the way to starter solenoid,It is the same for A/T cars exept they added 46A and relay in between so it was not dificult to convert it to start manual car. This is why I love 405's,all plugs and wires are the same if the car was M/T it would be swap-plug it in-turn it over and it runs.
I may have leaking radiator and I need to see what's up with cooling fans but first I need to reduce that ONE FOOT WHEEL GAP ;-)
Lowered the rear today and flushed brake fluid. This car will need all brake lines,lower ball joints,sway bar bushings,lower control arm bushings,brake rotors pads and shocks :-(
Here are few pictures guys.
What I started with.
Alternator was not working and fans are on at full speed with key on and engine running. I fixed alternator problem,alternator bracket is powder coated and was not providing good ground. On Monday I'll take it to A/C place to have it recharged and start driving it about every day.
I got check engine light fix today,charged A/C and fixed cooling fans. She drives and runs really good now.
Last Saturday I replaced the gas tank and filler neck do to leak and holding fuel nozzle while fuling was driving me crazy. All good now no fuel leaks and fuel nozzle is not clicking off any more.
I also repaired speedo cable and replace idle control valve. Wagon and Sedan gas tank and filler neck are the same.
Grrrrr this sucks big fat D... It looks like it may have head gasket issues,it pushes coolant through over flow weep hole on the hot day when it's not running. To top that off there was some construction work on I 80 and one of the debris cracked my windshield :-(
This 405 had a factory option of VIN numbers being engraved on all of the windows so I'm very mad that will go away.
However I did file claim with Caltrans so we shell see what will happened.
Well it looks like I had faulty new radiator cap. I did CO2 test in cooling system and it passed,so I replaced thermostat,radiator cap and after that I had no problems.
I also did oil change,Mobil 1 was on sale.
Lifters are noisy on this engine so that's on the list to do as well, I ran sea foam and it made it better but after 3000RPM they are really noisy.
Radiator was seeping since day one so that got replace today with out removing intake manifold :-) also I replace leaking intank fuel pump housing.
Last few weeks ago I've noticed really bad oil consumption however engine was running good and strong. Today on my way to work check engine light came on and engine was cutting out,right after that started to make a lot if noise. At that point I knew it was engine failure so I kept driving few yards longer just to get off the Freeway. Long story short this wagon has engine block inspection hole.
I think that rings gave out,perhaps one or two broke which caused high oil consumption,I new it was a ticking bomb waiting to go off :-(
Your engine failure sounds just like mine did :-)
I got spare engines but unfortunately for me it will be a while before she back on the road. MI16 now needs to be done ASAP and DSM needs some love as well.
I'm thinking to have head rebuilded,change piston rings,main and rod bearings.
Engine is at machine shop and tomorrow I'll pull out one with the inspection hole.
I will have my friend (DSMer) Franky to help out. Bring out Monsters and Pizza :-)
I sure know how to destroy them.
Spare engine is at machine shop. I should have some news by friday.
I told them to go ahead and just built the head with out calling me,I gave them new valve guides and stem seals.
I found head bolts at Spoox Motorsports and I also got coming Tming Belt
Short Shift Rods
Inner Axle Boot
Outer Axle Boot
Short Heater Hose
Right Motor Mount
Outer Tie Rod End.
Now I'm regretting for not getting K24 on Ebay with all accessories:-(
Cylinder head is finished with the machine shop no news on bottom end. I also ordered 1g DSM engine roll stop Urethane mount.
Moooo parts :-)
Lower control arm bushings,ball joints,sway bar bushings and links installed.
1g DSM roll stop fits much better.
Thanks to Spoox motorsport head bolts came in.
I end up ordering XU10J4RS AKA 306 GTI-6 engine and 6 speed transmission from UK.
I'm very excited about it :-)
Installed camber plates today.
I also intalled tie rod ends and engine mount. I'm still patiently waiting for that engine.
Three weeks after payment was submitted and engine has not been shipped yet :-(
Both of us are waiting patiently!
While back I found picture of 405 Wagon with modified MI16 rear bumper,I'm trying to duplicate same results. A lot of trimming will be necessary and some type of mounting brackets will need to be made.
This is how far did I got.
New struts,Eibach springs and Savo spec camber plates.
They fit great,now I just need that 306 GTI-6 draivetrain.
Wagon officially has stereo now :-) doors have 6.5" Rockford Fosgate speakers and there was no modifications needed to fit them in. Tweeters are also Rockford Fosgates and I ran all new wireing as well. I'll use small amp and small single subwoofer nothing too crazy.
Finally I got good news today about my engine. This is what he wrote.
Yes been sortin out even more paperwork for that yesterday but asked for dates this morning, also I found out, it sailed to new york then gets railed to LAX, I thought it got sailed all the way to LAX.
This is getting ridiculous now. I haven't messaged Colin in three weeks now because I was hoping that it would be here by now so I got I hold of him today and got another excuse grrrrr I'm tired of this. Only thing that I received from him is timing belt and water pump kit.
3-26-15 was four months since payment was mad and still no engine. I can not describe how I feel :-( I have my own customers waiting on me to get work done for them so I have no choice but to get it out of my garage and get other important things done.
He did call me finally few days ago only because shipping company is about to charge him storage fees and the problem is with US customs. He also called me few minutes ago telling me that shipping company needs my info so that broker in N.Y can call me and finish customs paper work.
Hopefully by end of the day I can get this sorted out.
I filled out POA paper work and send it out next day air to broker in N.Y,hopefully that's the last darn thing so it can finally be shipped out.
Latest news is that my engine is in N.Y and entire container is getting X-rayed. Finally it made it to US :-)
I haven't seen it before but I'm sure it will be useful. From my experience reading on forums then applying it to my own vehicles doesn't work out quite right lol.
I'm keeping 6 speed box to compare drivability to 5 speed box then decide if I'm going too keep it or not.
Replaced rear shocks,rear brake hoses and side marker lights last night.
Well I had to pay $1300 extra to have that engine released from customs and I found out that it will be shipped to L.A and to my house. I'm extremely frustrated but what is done it's done :-( I wish I was listening to my self at first,by now It would have 350WHP EVO engine in it.
Finally it's in my possession and I'm super excited about it. It does have some transport damage and I have already contacted shipping company. Trip was great and I got to hang out with Marc and André again.
Now fun part begins :-) disassembling,cleaning,powder coating,cutting,welding,modifying and god knows what else...
I send out parts to my powder coater last week (I'll see him at DSM-EVO-GTR shOOt out) cleaned up transmission and engine so far. I placed order with Colin on seals,gaskets,spark plugs and few other parts but as usual he did not ship it out and to tell you the truth I just feel like strangling this guy more and more everyday day.
And to top it all off he never send out paper work to claim department so once again he's holding me back :-(
Once again Colin has failed me again and I decided to end this relationship. I'm tired of lies,incorrect information and not having parts at my door step. I've got seals,gaskets,O2 sensor and other items coming from Jürgen in Germany and I'm still trying to track down replacment parts for damaged ones that happened while engine was in shipping process.
Today I installed reverse shift cable for 6 speed gearbox,new 6 speed shift knob and made shift knob rod shorter.
Finally powder coated parts showed up earlier this week. I'm still waiting on seals and gaskets which should be here any day.
I also received replacment parts that got damaged in shipping. I did pay it out of my own pocket as Colin has ignored any of my emailes. What a *itch....
Before and after photos. I did take a lot of photos and videos prior dissembling so every clip and bolt went right back where it came from. Every wire and hose got routed in same location as factory did so it will look OEM for sure when it's done.
Finally this engine is installed and I'm hoping it will be there for a long time. What have I gone trough to have this engine and finally see it inside of that engine bay was really unbelievable,I don't drink at all but I did open one beer and took few minutes just looking at it and some part of me still can't believe it's actually inside and about to run.
Engine did bolt in right in place but shift fork and shift bracket needs to change with 5 speed ones if 6 speed gear box is used. Also phase II 405 clutch cable needs too be used as GTI6 clutch is pull style. Non of these things were noted on any forums that I've visited. Once I'm done and it's running and driving I'll make a full write up on GTI6 to 405 swap so next guy does not have my headaches.
I also order tachometer adapter from Spoox motorsport.
Pictures below is shift bracket that needs to be swapped over and yes shift linkages are the same and work just fine. Also if you have 91 vehicle you will need 89 style shifter knob as reverse is pull type by first gear.
Left shift bracket is for 5 speed and one on the right is 6 speed.
Left shift bracket is for 5 speed (not powder coated one) and other on is 6 speed. Both of these brackets are needed out of 5 speed to use 6 speed gear box in 405.
I've got all OEM parts from UK already so no need for electric vacuum pump. Yes I received tachometer adapter from Spoox Motorsport today. It's converting digital signal to analog to get 205,309 and 405 tachometer working with 306 GTI6 engine.
I got my personal license plate :-)
I also ordered GTI 6 battery-ECU box for cleaner look.
This GTI 6 intake manifold is work of art. It has velocity stacks built in,truly amazing.
I'm thinking to get another one for my MI16.
Local Hose&Fittings shop made me new P/S pressure hose and I needed about 4 feet of 16mm return hose. I bolted it all in place today and it fits great.
I had to modify A/C accumulator and move few hoses in different locations so everything can fit properly. Accumuator got flipped about 180* and now it's pointed up. One of the mounting holes was there already so I just drilled one more 6mm hole for better mounting. I left bottom mounting ear as it has two spot welds on it which makes it very strog and engine vibrations won't brake it.
Before I get it all back together I'll paint accumuator black.
I had to cut out lip on fraim rail about 10mm as 6th gear housing was lightly touching it.
I also installed battery box,cables and battery.
A/C lines are routed correctly to fit this engine and I painted accumulator semi gloss black. I also made engine harness to body harness bracket-plate and it will be powder coated gloss black after engine brake in. I got 306 body to engine harness pig tails to mate it to 405 body harness.
On Saturday I installed vacuum pump for brake assist,connected fuel lines,installed and charged battery, and started on wiring fun.
I called it quits at 1:30am after having insufficient information on second engine harness connector. It seems like no one in UK is using it,however I need it as I have A/C,oil level and oil temp gauges.
UK guys don't have any use of A/C,check engine light,factory oil gauges or OBD II. So pretty much that's what kept me from having it running and moving on it's own power.
I've got this Wagon running today. Started right up too,idle is perfect and no check engine light at all :-)
I had it running only for 10 minutes as I haven't wired engine fans do to lack of informations. Also I need to determine if resistance is the same on coolant,oil temperature and oil level senders. I haven't found any useful information on this and key board mechanics are not very helpful.
Another thing that I need to do is add fuse for fuel pump and once again no information on keep alive memory which will need to be fused as well.
I'm hoping to drive it by Saturday.
I figured out A/C wiring in that 8 pin connector my self. I'm surprised that various forums have no information on this and very little on OBD II socket.
I've made quick drawing but I don't have time to create Windows based file to make it look pretty. Hopefully next person may find this useful.
I did add 15A fuse for fuel pump as Motronic set up have fuel pump fuse in little fuse box by strut tower which is part of engine harness.
Another electrical issue that I came across on this swap is lack of information on KAM or constant 12+ at ECU as it's needed to retain memory after every key off cycle. From what have I seen is that ECU gets powered up with ignition switch live and goes dead after every ignition swich cycle.
I made a quick how to just in case if someone may need it in a future. I apologize for hand written diagram as at the moment I have no free time to make this on computer.
Pin #3 in small connector is White wire and it goes to ECU pin #50 (A/C ON) this wire needs to be shared with pin #6 in small GTI6 connector brown wire.This Brown wire goes to A/C compressor connector and it powers A/C compressor clutch (12V+)
Pin #4 in small connector is Green wire and it goes to ECU pin #26 (A/C compressor ON)
Also diagram below explain how to connect your fan switch. With out it with ignition on or engine running your cooling fans will be in default mode and ON at full speed.
Both of these wires are located in same MC3A connector in pin #B1 and pin #B2.
Connect your GTI6 Brown A/C cooling fan sensor to US 405 MC3A connector.
Small 8 pin connector pin#1 yellow wire to MC3A connector pin B1 (red wire)
Small 8 pin connector pin#2 yellow wire to MC3A connector pin B2 (red wire)
^^^back view of MC3A connector.
^^^Front view of MC3A 13 pin connector.
^^^GTI6 body side 8 pin connector.
^^^ GTI6 ECU pin out.
Good info can be found here.
I'm really surprised how the ride quality has improved after suspension work. This car was riding really bad and I new after all that work it wilk ride much better but honestly I haven't expected to be this nice. This car is actually enjoyable to drive now :-)
Tomorrow or Wednesday I'll take it to emission test.
That's a pass :-) I would lied if I would tell you guys that I wasn't worried not so much that would not pass the sniffer but the question what's a 6 speed and big shiny engine doing here?
Also today I went to DMV to pay registration fees as it's registered till this Saturday. Speaking of taking it down to a wire lol
Finally got a new windshield:-) totally worthed $300.
I also replaced long dash vent trim by windshield and I'm hoping it will last for few years as I ran out of them. I stll have one that I'm keeping so it can be used to create mold.
Few weeks ago I noticed oil leak so long story short driver side sway bar end rubbed trough 6th gear end cover. No forums or keyboard tuner have mentioned anything about this problem so I learned on hard way...as I usually do...
I end up cutting end of sway bar off and added 6mm spacer between frame and sway bar bracket on both sides. Now that gave me plenty of space and no rattle or noises are present.
Euro headlights and HID's. I also got turn signal-marker light sockets and pigtails out of 2g DSM to make front turn signals like Euro cars.
Installed these Euro headlights and I love them.
I also added marker light inside headlights as they did come with socket and I made side marker light to work as turn signal and marker light like in Europe. All of my exterior lights are LED and H4 HI-LO 8000K HID.
Tomorrow I'm getting LED fog lamp bulbs.
I got new keys and key chains as well :-)
Ten years later this car has sound again. Two years in my possession and finally I got sound. I still need to clean up wiring and take better pictures when it's all done.
These are door speakers and tweeters.
Lately when I would fill up I noticed very next day heavy fuel fumes smell inside the car. I found puel pump housing gasket faulty so I ordered one from Jürgen. I end up getting lock ring as well,today I replaced seal and lock ring filled it up with gas and it's great so far.
DSM turn signal socket end up being too long so I end up getting one out of Dodge Mini Van. Minimal modifications required but it works great. I also insatlled SpooxMotorsport's roll stop mount but with some reason I can't upload picture.
Replaced oil temperature gauge as mine was showing 190*F at all times and of course I had to replace center went as one on it that I've replaced broke again. Good old 405 interior...
Heated seat pads came in on Friday,hopefully I can take seats to upholstery shop on Wednesday.
...me happy :-)...
I haven't posted pictures of finished engine bay so here it is.
No I haven't painted engine bay just got it cleaned up very well. Yes it's using small vacuum pump that's driven by exhaust camshafts.
ABS unit is too large and my engine bay won't look as clean. I removed cruise control as it was too large and looked too bulky,I think it looks way better with out it.
I cleaned up top of the radiator when engine was out but pitting came back from rain and moisture in the air. I'm thinking to order aluminum GTI6 radiator as this one is old and probably about to let go soon.
Fuel fume odor was present ever time I would fill it up even after I replaced F.P housing rubber gasket and hold down ring. I had same problem on my MI16 and I was suspecting same problem,cracked feed nipple where fuel feed hose is attached. I found two spare units but both had same cracks :-(
It took me a month to fined NOS unit and Mike Aube had one. It got delivered yestrday but it has been damaged by USPS,by look of it looks like it has beed dropped or something heavy landed on it. I was very surprised that Mike shipped it in original box with out any protection which if it was used this could have been avoided.
Luckily fuel gauge plate tab and circuit board thingy broke and I was able to replace it out of my leaking unit. Also I end up swapping primer fuel pump as new one had a stamp 1990 and it was extremely noisy.Today was beautiful outside so I end up installing it before work,I'm pleased it's working great so far. Hopefully no more fuel fumes odors:-) however I'll need to fill it up few time to confirm.
Wagon has been down for two weeks now :-( do to electrical issue.
I was on the way to work when all the sudden interior lights and gauge cluster stopped working. Long story short with multi switch in park possition fuse A4 blows,route cause is wire 25D in connector P706A,pin B6. Once P706A is disconected fuse would not blow any longer,this 25D wire feeds little light bulbs in several switches,clock and radio illumination. I've disconected every related switch and connector and fuse would still blow with headlight switch in park position. I've peeled back electrical tape from P706A connector to top of dashboard to inspect for short to ground but I can't see anything further up dashboard,dashboard it self is on the way. At this point I stopped and left it alone for few days,today I got back to it and magically fuse stopped blowing which is what you do not want in electrical issues,I would hate to lose this car to electrical fire.
Found it. Can't say it was fun...
I'm just glad it did not catch on fire.
I got my seats,floor mats and cargo shelf back from upholstery shop. With some reason seats look more red then they are,floor mats color is close to factory color and they fit great. They mimicked factory stitches and little pocket thingy on back of the seat. Overall I'm satisfied but I do wish seats were darker color close to factory color.
Replacment heated seat elements came with low and high temperature settings which include additional switch to control it. I mounted switch on side of lower plastic cover where it's easy to access and change temperature to desire of occupant. I used power source from original wiring,once original heated switch is turned on it supplies power to replacment heated unit relay. With relay energized heated seats come to life with temperature adjustment on new switch that's mounted by side seat plastic trim. Simple and easy If I may say :-)
Windows tinting is next and I'm hoping to have it done by mid week.
Also I forgot to add that rear seats are still at upholstery shop :-(
I got my windows tinted few days ago,they are 25% all the way around.
On Monday I attempted to recharge A/C which end up working for only few minutes. Last year I did 134a retrofit so I used what I had left over to full it up and check for leaks. Not surprisingly I had one leak which end up being quick seal replacment fix. After I fully recharged it I left it idling for 10 minutes with me sitting inside the cabin enjoying cold air when all the sudden I noticed weird odor. I got out and noticed that it's coming front front of the car so I opened the hood and found that smoke is coming from A/C compressor clutch :-(
Quickly I turned engine off and started to clean up then all the sudden I heard this loud boom with green fluid leaking out,I told my self well this is great it looks like radiator has let go 10 minutes before I leave for work. Closer examination confirmed it was Freon leaking around A/C dryer. Last year A/C worked great on this car with out any problems...oooohhh well this is battle for another day.
On possitive note I know my A/C compressor wiring to GTI6 end up being correct as no information on this was available.
I got A/C repaired today :-) I'll drive it for few weeks just to make sure that everything is OKay before I take it to a shop for proper A/C service with A/C machine.
I updated pressure switch to 91 and up style,replaced A/C receiver drier and compressor clutch coil. Problem was in 306 GTI coil,they do look identical however 12V+ and negative are on opposite sides to 405 unit. That caused my compressor clutch to smoke and lock up.
I also replaced crankshaft pulley as original has moved (rubber part failed) on these engine it is very important to have good crankshaft pulley as TDC hole is part of pulley. If you have one that's failed it may give you faulse TDC when you are changing timing belt which may result in valve to piston damage. If you look at my picture you can see that my TDC has moved for about 45*
Today was heater core fun!
Also today I had to rewire A/C compressor ON input to ECU as when A/C compressor clutch is engaged idle would drop down and it would not increase as ECU is not aware of A/C compressor clutch command. Finding this information was tricky,all XU10J4RS swaps end up not using A/C system so there was zero information on this. If you remember I had to figure out fan control as well,at first I wired it in as 205 GTI guise did but with ignition on my fans were on at full speed do to missing Briton temperature sensor circuit. So pretty much once again I had to figure out this pice of puzzle my self.
I found ECU pin out diagram on Google however diagram shows A/C input at pin 26 and 50 which is not sufficient enough of information. On 405 those A/C inputs are at pin 41 and 40 where pin 41 is input from A/C switch and pin 40 is input from Trinary switch (A/C compressor 12V) so I end up getting small help from UK on this.
I made thread on 306 GTI forum about A/C schematic diagram with question specific about pin 26 and 50. One person gave me answer that 26 is A/C compressor on and 50 A/C select on.
The rest was simple! Using multi meter I found which pin these wires belog (to GTI6 pig tail that I used to mate 405 body harness) and they were next to each other. Next step was to connect 405 body side wires to GTI6 side and those were in MC3A (brown) connector.
MC3A Pin A2 A/C select input (A/C switch) wire 41 to GTI6 8pin (small connector) green wire (ECU pin 50)
MC3A Pin A5 A/C compressor ON ( from Trinary switch) wire 6A to GTI6 8 pin (small connector) white wire (ECU pin 26)
This 6A wire (MC3A connector pin# A5) needs to be spliced with brown wire in GTI6 small 8 pin connector pin #6.
Eureka!!!! With A/C compressor clutch engaged idle raises up and stays few RPMs higher,success gents!!!
And it's 23:15 and SavoSpec is very tired. Long day indeed.
^^^ GTI6 small 8pin connector. 205 GTI guise don't use this at all,primarily it's used for A/C purpose only.
^^^rear view of MC3A connector
^^^front view of MC3A connector.
^^^GTI6 ECU pin out.
Thanks to Marc I got set of these coming my way ;-)
I'll used them till I figure out what kind of 17's and fender flares to go with.
I also got same Yokohama's I got on my MI as I like thrm a lot.
I got my keyless system today. Hopefully install goes smooth tomorrow.
I always loved how 205 GTI wheels look like. I wish they could be available in 16" and 17" diameter.
Definitely needs coilovers now :-)
I've been looking in to coilovers last two days and there is not much out there available for 405's. GAZ unit are affordable and better then AVO's (I got AVO's on my MI16) however I do love BC coilovers on my Genesis Coupe (track edition) and I would love to have them on 405.
Yesterday I emailed BC racing and coilovers are not available for 405 but they are available for 306 which made me smiling. I prefer using 306 coilovers over 405 ones as body of the schock is 1" shorter. This is perfect as AVO's and GAZ units at there lowest setting loose some shock travel and BC's don't. To adjust vehicle height on BC units you simply adjust it on shock body it self,that way spring pre load and shock travel stay always the same.
AVO and GAZ units would work out perfect for owners who doesn't like vehicles low as I do.
Front 306 GTI are direct swap but not the rear schocks as mounting holes are different diameter. 306 schocks are using 12mm and 14mm holes and 405 is using 16mm mounting holes. It looks like I got another set of Coilovers to modify and this would be set number three on 405's.
If you look closer you can see that adjustment is done on shock body it self. Second sigle nut gets unsecured and height adjustment is achieved by turning upper gold nut,with that nut being turned it lowers or raises vehicle up.
I designed top spring hat and added helper spring,spacer,bearing and camber plates. These also came with 250 lbs springs and they felt bit too springy,could be because of all the extra weight US MI16's got. I end up getting 300 lbs springs and it worked out great. Front end feels much better and definitely not springy anylonger.
Thanks to Andrè we now have lockheed decals.
I'm so happy the way this car drives now. I remember first time I drove it and literally it was a death trap. When I rebuilted front suspension and steering I was looking forward to test drive but unfortunately that would be delayed eight months thanks to mister Colin.
Unbelievably on that first test drive it felt like a totally different car,I literally told my self I can't believe this is the same car! However it still never felt like my MI16,something was missing but totally unsure what it was...till I bolted on those Speedline and new tires.
It feels so good to drive this car now,I totally enjoy driving this car now and transformation is just unbelievable!!! I always new and heard that tires made a huge difference but never ever have I experienced it till now.
Half off sale at Pick n Pull hauler.
I was surprised that you new as DSM's are not common vehicles in Europe.
This weekend a DSM AWD record got broken three times and once last week.This record was set back in 2006 by John Shepard and it was 7.70 at 191 MPH.
Jeff Bush went 7.6 @ 166MPH then next weekend we went 7.58 @ 166MPH and he's on A/T.
Devin (boostin performance) went 7.55 @ 195MPH followed by 7.4 @ 199MPH's
I met them all at DSM-EVO-GTR shoot out which is hosted by Jeff Busch him self. I'm flying to Ohio again this year and staying with my powder coater and he's crew.
Damn it!!! This is the fourth one that cracked between two of my 405's I only got one good left. On this one I applied thick coat of apoxie on back of it and it still cracked.
I'm thinking about importing phase II dash,I'm done with fixing interior on these cars every two weeks.
Coolant and oil temps are steady on 105*F weather with A/C on in traffic or freeway. I'm extremely satisfied after all I went trough with this car.
Replaced engine oil and door central locking motors today. Also engine bay got a fresh coat of wax :-)
It's 200 miles shy of 10.000 miles since the swap was completed (on this XU10J4RS)
Finally!!! I picked up and installed my rear seat today. Mounting brackets should be here Wednesday and they are powder coated black.
Finally this weekend I got real world results between these two engines. The 6 has always felt like it has more torque then MI but on another hand my MI felt like it has better top end but do keep in mined that my MI is running on link and E85. Factory claims 17 HP more on the 6 engine so naturally it should be quicker then MI.First test was final gear test,we did WOT 60MPH-75MPH where the Wagon was in 6th and MI in 5th gear. My assumption was correct the 6 engine was pulling like a freight train on MI and it was pretty embarrassing as the 6 gain was substantial. Second test was WOT 3th gear pull 60MPH-90MPH and my assumption was correct again,this time MI was pulling on the 6 like a freight train. By the end of 3th gear MI was full length of a car ahead. I still need to perform 0-60 MPH test between the two.These tests were performed away from public or any vehicles on the road where no one potentially could have needed hurt.
Seats brackets came in and finally interior is finished.
As most of you know I was on vacation for 30 days and out of country so no real updates on my cars at the moment.
Wagon was on the street with out battery tender and it started right up like a champ!!! However today third brake light assembly fell of :-( I'm so tired of CA 405 interior not sure what to do about it any more.... On a positive note I've ordered B.C coilovers for it :-)
These will go to MI16 and AVO's to Wagon.
Not bad for R134a
This is on the freeway with 102*F outside.
BC's came in last week and I'm super stoked!!!
With some odd and unknown reason most Peugeot coilovers don't come with upper spring perch (spring seat) or camber plates regardless of brand.
306 rear shock mounting bolts are 12mm and 405's are 16mm so I'm gonna need to replace bushings or press out 12mm sleeves,drill out existing bushings and press in 16mm replacment sleeves.
I end up ordering front spring perch from BC that fits my Genesis and multiple other vehicles and I'm gonna reuse my existing camber plates. Hopefully all works out okay.
These coilovers are priced as other BR type coilovers just like ones for my Genesis and DSM,they all are $995 but these do not use rear springs,adjustment nuts,spring seats or camber plates and yet again prices are the same.
I agree Goce this looks way better then bright yellow.
Upper spring seats arrived and they are just about perfect fit. Center hole is 12mm and Peugeot shock shaft is 14mm so I just need to open it up for 2mm's and I got plenty of metal to spare after I drill the centet out.Later on I found out It's exactly same pice that's used for 14mm shock bodys and BC gets it done the same way I'll do it tomorrow.
Unfortunately I won't be able to use retaining nuts as threads are 12mm,however I do have a new set of 14mm's somewhere in my garage.
End up buying a drill press today to finish modifying top spring seats which end up working great. I was too exited about installing BCs that I haven't had the time to finish mounting my new drill press.
BC's end up on MI16 and tomorrow I'll install AVO's on my Wagon.
Installed AVO's on Wagon but I haven't had a chance to lower rear more or install rear shocks.
On the left is stock shock with Eibach liwering spring and on the right is my AVO set up that came off my MI16.
I still need to deal with rear shocks before I drive it Rabin but I'll definitely report back.
Replaced engine oil and filter today,replaced exhaust manifold to down pipe gasket,adjusted ride height up front,adjusted camber as it was way too positive,adjusted toe and adjusted air pressure in the tires.
Alignment is schaduled for Monday.
Finally found some time to lower the rear. Lucky it's California car so getting T.B's out was extremely easy. Also found out that rear muffler baffles came a part which would explain rattling noise at idle. I'll visit parts cars once again tomorrow.
Rear end is lower then the front,I could quickly get the front more down but I really don't feel like slamming this car as well so I'll just bring the rear up for 10mm.
I was surprised too see that AVO rear shocks were shorter then stock.
Frim left to right.
306 GTI BC
Got my 10mm wheels spacers and lug bolts today,these are for rear only.
Today I raised rear for about 10mm and added wheels spacers.
I also replaced exhaust center section that was on my red car back in the day,luckily for me this center section was replaced few years back and it still looks new. I still need to get new rear muffler but for now I'm using Magnaflow that was on Nick's car.
I got alignment scheduled for Monday.
I got alignment done today and as usual I had to argue with them...grrrrr I was not happy!!!
Last good windshield vent trim installed. Not sure what to do when this one brakes...
Unbelievably as it might sound I've found set of Euro side skirts in US that were bargain!!!
They do need to be repaired in few places but overall I'm satisfied. He also had extra set of bumpers but unfortunately he kept it at he's local body shop where they got tired of tripping over it and on the end they end up in the dumpster. I wasn't happy when I received that information :-(
GTI6 front brakes arrived from powder coater. Brake rotors are high heat ceramic coated and rear brakes are factory 405 brakes.
In same time I'll replace engine oil,fuel filter,belt and pulleys.
Today I installed front caliper seal kit,replaced engine oil and filter,replaced belt and pullyes and swapped back to MI16 front C.V axles. I also performed full inspection and everything looks great and no oil or coolant leaks :-)
I failed to install GTI6 brakes today because they don't fit :-( everything bolts up just fine,however with calipers mounted to knuckle it's pushing caliper 10mm forward which makes brake pad not to contact brake rotor for about 10mm.
Solution for this problem is most likely 306 GTI knuckle. I'll report back when I get them.
Picture below is GTI6 rotor next to 405 rotor. Mine definitely looks like it has been below service limit for some time,curtesy of previous owner!!!
SRDT is correct on 306 knuckles,lower ball joint set up is different different then 405 ball joints.
I'll play with this by end of the week and try to come up with the solution!
Finally had some free time to rebuild these rear calipers. It definitely was not fun but second one was lot easier. I also found on RockAuto new bleeder screws,caliper slide pin bolts and slide pin boots and they were unbelievably affordable.
Hmmm weird. I just finished installing rear brakes E brake cable was up including all factory brackets. I also just finished brakes on Nick's MI16 and E brake cable is also up including all factory brackets.
They are simular but not the same. Once you dissemble caliper E brake mechanism is different and piston is 36mm where on 405 is 38mm. However they do bolt up and work just fine on 405.
I had these two wheel bearings dust caps made by same guy that made my 1g DSM CAS adapter.
I replace brake master cylinder and brake booster today with 91ABS pars as master cylinder is little bigger. This master cylinder should be just enough for front GTI6 brakes.
I also replaced brake line plastic holding clips with NOS parts. Windshield cowel got a fresh coat of paint and windshield wiper arms were already powder coated.
It's about 16" HG on US engines. I hardly see it at 18" HG on my data logs.
I don't feel any different between these brake booster and I certainly don't feel lack of assist.
Or you can use Vacuum pump from XU10J4RS. It's driven by exhaust cam and this is how they came out of factory.
Today BC upper spring seat with Koyo bearing arrived including new retaining nuts. I'm very satisfied how these have worked out on my MI16 BC coilovers and I'll try these on my Wagon AVO coilovers. I also got new pair of camber plates.
Oil change followed by SavoSpec-ing
End up removing front bumper and getting all the light lenses from my parts cars and also me and Nick drove to Bryan's place to pick up rear bumper. These are for person in France that I'm trading for set of Euro bumpers.
I end up installing original bumper back on and I cut out holes for fog lights. This bumper is damaged on bottom on driver side,about 10cm of material is missing but it's hard too see it now with fog lights installed and car being so low helps out hiding that missing part of the bumper.
And he we are at Bryan's:-)
Today I cut off all unnecessary 306 GTI fittings of this radiator and now I'm just waiting on new fittings to arrive. Once they arrive I'll have them welded and finally install this radiator.
^^^^ never had a chance to get that done so yesterday I replaced it with new Valeo unit.
I also replaced both radiator hoses and driver inner C.V boot. She got nice wash as well followed by one hour engine bay detail.
A box full of C.V boots :-)
Sir bring your truck around.Okay ;-)
Oil change,A/C pulley bearing,right side inner C.V boot and full inspection. Next month is going to be hard on this old girl :-(
purchased a larger house,this one has three car garage,huge RV access and ton of room dor parking.
And photo below is my wagon :-(
Got these new roof rack bars from Mike Aube. They need to be powder coated as they do have some chips in end caps.
This A/C compressor had enough! I got good used one and I ordered front seal kit,front shim kit,pulley bearing,R12-R134 fittings,receiver dryer and I picked up oil and Freon yesterday.
I've been extremely busy with my house so cars haven't been getting much love lately :-(
This car had another electrical problem :-( my right rear curtesy light did not work,end up being broken wire at connector.
Thanks to Mike now I got good hand brake rubber gator :-)
Almost forgot that I took it to Monterey for Concours D' Lemons and that was 400 hard miles trip,lots and lots 7600 RPM pulls :-) and of course next day back to daily driving.
I was on the way home from work on Saturday morning stuck behind semi for few minutes where all the sudden 6 foot ladder appeared and there was no way avoiding it :-( I swerved to left to avoid it and end up hitting it and running it over with front right wheel. I pulled over right away and figured my rim and oil pan get damaged,but but likely only the fog lamp bezel got the worst of it. With how low my car is I'm surprised that I got away with it so clean.
O yeah I got it loaded again this weekend :-) I just ❤️ this car.
Finally got the time to replace steering dampener bushings and I flushed all fluid as well. Today I ordered new K&N air filter,water pump and timing belt kit.
Hmmm got a interesting phone call today,I got offered 99 C43 AGM E55 swapped and cash on top for my wagon. It’s a tempting offer.
99 C43 that I was offered for trade.
Two new tires and another C.V boot ;-)
Brought it home exactly 4 years ago,time does fly. I remember looking at engine bay wondering how will I ever make this bay look good. Little did I know :-)
Once this junk is painted I’ll install my new set of chrome emblems,I like chrome ones better.
SavoSpec’s :-) both unique and one and only,no duplicates.
Timing belt service again:-) 45,000 miles later. Replacing fuel filter,engine oil,spark plugs,alternator belt and pulleys as well.
Lately I noticed fuel fumes inside of my car and I found that fuel was dripping at fuel fill hose by gas tank,end up replacing it and by the time I got to work fuel was leaking pretty bad out of that same area. Next day I found large crack at fuel fill hose attachment on gas tank :-( this is second time I had gas tank leak on this car and I had only one left and it’s currently in my other wagon. This Saturday I removed it out of parts car (wagon) and install it in this wagon and then I found another leak :-( this time it’s leaking around mounting tab for exhaust heat shield. I can’t fined another gas tank that’s close to me so I’ll try repairing this one till I fined the replacement.
Back to gas tank leak,right!
I end up repairing it while the tank was still inside the car,end up raising up left side up in the air so remaining gas that could not be drained would end up on the right side.First I was using soldering iron to melt plastic around leak to seal it that way first before applying Petroleum safe JB weld,tell you what working with that soldering iron was scary but luckily it all ended well.
After JB weld dried off and cured I painted it with black spray paint and filled it up with gas,it took about 11 gallons.
So far I haven’t seen any leaks but I’ll keep checking in a few days.
Fourth time may be the charm :-)
Huge thanks to Bryan Caldwell for hook up,o yeah it was FREE and delivered:-)
Last Sunday I was taking two cars to Radwood show and only one made it,fuel pump decided to quit on Wagon. I was really surprised that it was still original pump as I literally replaced everything on this car,somehow I missed inline fuel pump.
I ordered inline,in tank guel pump and fuel filter from Rock Auto and red parts car donated fuel pump to keep it going till new parts arrive.
I should add it failed only 10 miles away from my house.
I end us dissembling old fuel pump just to see what happened and as they say picture say 1000 words.
Rock Auto delivers again 🙂 $117 OTD!
This is original pump about 196.000 miles and no knocking on it would get it going,brushes were simply not making contact any longer and in the picture you can see why.
When I pick this car up it had about 137.000 miles and now it’s at 200.000 miles, just little over 50.000 miles on this GTI6 engine since it was imported.
It’s still my daily driver and most of the time it’s used as a truck 🙂
Unfortunately I never had a chance to modify GTI6 front brakes to make them fit and front brakes could not take no more abuse so I just ordered factory replacement trough Rock Auto. Rotors were only $12 each and pads were $14, I also end up getting new slide pin boots, slide pin bolts and little screws that hold rotors in place.
Thank you sir, I should add that I replaced all four tires and alignment lasted Saturday. Still driving it every day about 300 miles a week.
Power of google did it again! I’ll admit it took me a bit of time to find what can fit and here it is. I always new there is something out there that is straight replacement and they definitely did not made that many different types of compressors back in the day.
Luckily for me I found open box on Ebay for $80 and regular prices are around $220 and this is also Sanden unit.
I should probably add that on these Sanden units back head and front pulley’s are interchangeable. I also got new drive belt and ideler pulleys. Since this car is equipped with XU10J4RS engine compressor pulley is for six rib belt so I’ll only need to swap over back head and electrical connector.
You folks are very welcome 🙂
Update on this, I had to use my front pulley as offset wasn't same and further research found that Sanden 8025 is equipped with correct pulley.
I vacuumed entire system for three hours before filling it back up and needle stayed in same place for 6 hours. At that point I filled it back up with R134a.
I’m using it for two weeks now and it’s working great.