Peugeotech's 505 V8 build (Rover 4.6L)

By diyauto
( 2 )

5 minute(s) of a 64 minute read


Peugeotech's 505 V8 build (Rover 4.6L)

Compliments of Stewart @


I'm building one! I'm using the 4.6l Range Rover engine as a basis with the Thor type inlet manifold and full custom engine management. I'm about 1/2 way through with a mock up car and think I might have just found a decent 505 Gti from '85 to swap the bits into. We have cut the firewall a little to move the whole engine transmission back 300mm. Just need to organise ventilated front brakes.


Thank you for the welcome. It'll be nice to compare ideas and notes with 505 like minded!

I'm thinking the 604 ventilated discs and 604 front calipers. Our 505's did not get ventilated but, they did get identical calipers to 604 V6 with a small amount removed from the middle of the 505 caliper it becomes a 604 one. That way the master and booster will all be sweet and those superb 505 brakes will be just so.

We have GM Holdens and some Frauds over here that have calipers that will fit as well. . That's just a small problem! The car is about 18 months in and most of the ideas are actually looking pretty cool. I'm running 3.07:1 limited slip, ( overhauled already), We've shortened the torque tube, done engine mounts and cut and rebuilt the firewall so the engine is 300mm back into the car. I'm working on tying the torque tube to the rear crossmember using a bracket each side or north south on the crossmember and a bolt going through rubbers like a sway bar pin. What we've done looks like it will work.

I think the hardest part so far is setting up the power steer as the rack is just that little bit too close to the engine starter motor. I bought myself a lathe at last, so I'm toying with fitting the power valve further up the column . Bit of work in that so I'm also looking at the racks from 307's which are smaller in the valve area. The last thing I want is to have a 505 that won't steer like a 505! Love them.

The 404 on my site is now 2.2l, turboed with a T3/T4 and water/air intercooled. Not dynoed yet but the fuel injection data, is telling me we have 230/ 250 hp on 18 psi, so far. I built the engine using the 2.2l we have here. It's a loooong story involving superchargers, bored out sleeves, blown engines, poor engine crankcase ventilation control, etc. But, I'm happy with it now! I'm also running a compression ratio of 9.2 :1 which is OK but I will lift it to 10 or so. I ended up biting the bullet and remaking the camshaft. That made the engine. The Renault 21 turbo used a close cousin to the 2.2 and those guys are running 30 odd psi. I certainly learned a lot (and wrote most of it down), maybe the notes might be of help to someone here.


Here we go! This is a car we've been working over for a sweet V8. I'm still not sure whether to reassemble this body or take all the new gear out and fit up a better car. (I think I just solved my conumdrum) A good 1985 Gti has come up with the two tone silver duco. I have known for nearly 10 years.

Images to start are rear crossmember with outriggers to bolt to torque tube and the closeness of the steering valve to the engine.

18 months into the build using the last Range Rover/Buick 4.6l V8. 4 bolt mains and full engine management.

I really thought hard about gearbox choice this time. I'm going auto but using the Borg Warner 65 from the Rover Sd1. It has great ratios for the 3.07 diff . I figure 3 speeds is enough. Target numbers are an 50 mph low gear, 90 to 100mph 2nd and a top out 140 mph as a street car with A/C . That's the plan so far. Then I saw a site over there that is doing a SBC to BA10/5. Same bell housing bolt pattern in the Rover, too. I don't know about you but I've found 1st gear just too low in the BA 10's. I've already matched the Borg Warner to the Pug torque tube so I'll go with that 'cause it's easier from here!

I find this stuff really good for stimulating the tortured grey cells. I guess I'm just another Peugeot nut?

I've found some more pics for any interested folk. BW65 mated to 505 torque tube. As luck would have it I cut the flange off a BA7 4 and with a small touch in the lathe it could press onto the BW end housing. I made a clamp to squeeze it together and had it welded by an Air Frame Welder I know. Looks just right I reckon.