1971 Speedipus Rex by dangina

By diyauto
( 2 )


1971 Speedipus Rex



Compliments of dangina @ www.protouringmopar.com


11-26-2011


Finally with winter here and my other car in a new location - I have lots of room to start on my new project - a 1971 Plymouth Roadrunner. It's a 383 manual 4 speed with 276 gears and about 786269 miles on the odometer. Black Bucket seat interior with low opitions - I will give you more specs on the car when i can get through all the boxes to find the Vin tag - I believe I'll be the third owner of the car - last registered in 2001 - Previous owner did a bunch of body work to the car, Por-15 the whole underside and interior and never got around to finishing the project. My parents picked it up as a wedding gift for my Wife and I, The car has a huge significance to our family as it was the same car my dad had when i was born and sold it later when I was 4 (although his was a 72). I have always wanted to do a runner the same like my dad had back when i was a kid - he had a 2 tone paint scheme:

(I'll post the pics here later)


I'll be using the car to drive as much as possible during the year - with some autox and roadracing on the side - I've been busy doing the autox, dirt track, drifting and roadcoarse the last 5 years and always dreamt what it would be like to create a runner I have always wanted to have - the handling of todays cars with yesterdays looks, While adding one or two of my personal touches. I hope you like it!


Heres what i get to start off with:













Currently waiting for parts but here is my parts list so far (will add as more parts come in):


470ci stroker kit from Muscle Motors built locally by Performance Powertrain, Edlebrock RPM heads, Edleborck RPM Intake, Comp Cams XE285HL, Comp cams ultra pro magnum rockers, Milodon billet oil pump and cover, Milodon road race pan, QFT 830 4 bbl Carb with annular boosters and mechanical secondaries and electric choke, March Aluminum pulley set.

68 Camaro ABS front spoiler

69 Camaro fiberglass rear spoiler

8.75" backbraced with 489 case 3.55 gears Eaton True Trac 

AAR Quality Fiberglass hood with air grabber

ABS chin whiskers 

Afco leaf spring sliders

AndyF 13" Viper big brake kit from doctor diff w/drilled slotted rotors

AndyF stainless MC shield 

AndyF stainless starter shield

AndyF LCA braces

ASD hydraulic ebrake Pistol grip conversion

Auto Rust Technicicans Torque boxes 

Boregson large sector PS box with coupler

Custom tie rod sleeves 11/16" by Brads70

Custom subframe connectors 1x3" steel 

Custom 1.75" DOM rad brace 

Custom 1.5" DOM inner fender braces

Custom torsion bar brace

Custom hydraulic clutch conversion with 7/8" wilwood master cylinder and 7/8" slave cylinder 

Doctor Diff 11.7" loaded cobra calipers rear disk brake kit with custom timken bearing and ebrake kit 

Doctor Diff 15/16" aluminum master cylinder 

Dougs 2.5" electric exhaust cutouts

Energy Suspension Polyurethane bushings

Enkei 18x9.5 +15 Black RPF1's with 245/45/18 Michelin Pilot Sport A/S3

Firm feel Fast ratio Pitman and Idler arm with upgrade roller bearing kit

Firm feel 1.12 torsion bars 

Firm feel nylon control bushings 

Firm feel greasable control pins 

Firm feel 2" rear leaf spring brackets 

Headman headers 78030

Hella H4 headlight housings

Hella H1 headlight housings

Hellwig tubular front sway bar 1.25"

Hellwig rear adjustable sway bar 7/8" with adjustable solid endlinks

Hotchkis Front geometry corrected tubular upper A arms

Hotchkis Heavy Duty rear leaf spring brackets

Hotchkis Adjustable Strut rods

Hotchkis Heavy Duty front sway bar bushing brackets

Howe 11/16" tie rod ends with 5/8" stud bumpsteer kit and spacers

Hypercoils rear leaf springs (200lbs) 

Magnumforce 2" Dropped spindles

Moog problem solver balljoints

Moog tie rod ends 11/16"

Moog K750074 front endlinks

Mopardude custom gas tank 

QA1 double adjustable shocks

Science Friction clutch ,pressure plate and Lightened steel flywheel 

Stitch welded the whole underside of the car 

TTI 2.5" X-pipe exhaust 

Wilwood proportioning valve



I'm sure i'm forgetting more parts i have bought or will buy - I'll keep adding to this list so stay tuned!


12-7-2011


and so it begins: 




painted my torque boxes and started spot welding the frame - sorry for the cell phone pics - I tried taking pictures of me spot welding the frame, welds are ground down just before I apply the body sealer and paint






will take more pics here in the next couple days when I get to work in the garage


12-9-2011


Thanks for the comments guys! Here's what I did on my days off:


focused on the rear passenger framerail - grind, then spot weld, then paint with rust coat, then body sealer, then por-15 - ugh, seems like more work actually doing it, got 1 torque box in, the more I look underneath the car - the more panels I see the previous owner missed. Makes me want a hoist even more now - I'm tired of working on the floor - will have to wait till i buy a new house to get a shop to fit a hoist in, as my garage is only 7 1/2 feet high! 

now the pics:


test fit the rear spring plate before I welded in the torque box,






some items that came in!

wilwood 12.19 rear kit


what you get from hotchkis:




Now I feel really stupid - I thought the AndyF's Viper calipers on 13" Merecedes rotors from Doctor diff came with the Viper calipers. Stupid me. To top it off I talked to Cass at doctor diff and he says the kit is meant to run a 5 3/4" BS rim (ie Mustang rims). Great. I like my rims with as much negative offset as possible. Lesson learned. Heres a pretty pic of what the rotors look like:



now its back to the grind for another 4 - 12 hour days....


2-20-2012


teaser pic new air grabber hood fro AAR fiberglass - been so busy the past 2 months - trying to get my car finished before I send it off for body work and paint - been taking lots of pics - will upload all of them when the car goes to the shop this week...





Planing to have it drivable this spring! this is the first time ever in my life where I can just buy the parts I wanted and be able to just put them on from the beginning - I've always had to buy a part here and there (mostly used) and run them from there and because you fixed one area, another area ends up wearing out twice as fast. It'll be so nice just to put them on and drive...The only thing I won't be able to touch for a year or two is engine - the 383 will have to wait - I had to sell a 73 charger and a whack load of drift parts off my drift car to fund this - And all I am replacing is suspension, electrical and weather stripping and sporting a new hood. I tell ya if it were a chevy or ford the parts would be half (or more) as cheap and I could have bought a crate motor and still had money left over, but the car would never look as good


4-2-2012


Its officially at the body shop to finish some body work in the engine bay (due to me spot welding, boxing strut towers ect.) and some body work on the rear to get the lines perfect around the wheel wells. Then It will be painted!!!!


Its gonna be quite the thread dump of pics - I've been way to busy with work, renos and this project, Now i can actually post more regulary with all the some things that have to get done before the car returns - but here you go:


Pulled the windows, dash and everything out so i can por-15 everything, doors, innerfenders, My hands and arms had por-15 on them for 2 weeks! that stuf just wouldn't come off:


(these pics for my own reference lol)











subframe connectors made from 1.5"x3" .120















Made these from the left over 1.5"x3" to box the corner of the torion bar brace to front frame rails:








Front rad brace 1.75"x.120 DOM - had it bent up at a local race shop as well as the inner fender braces:






4-2-2012


Inner fender braces 1.5"x.120 DOM and boxing in the strut towers:

















I had bought some torque boxes off a moparts member a couple years ago for $100 for my charger which i sold, so I put them in this car, I was not impressed by the fitment of these boxes as they required alot of trimming and bending, I was not impressed. On top of that, the full set of torque boxes had 2 fronts, and two rears, but the rears were the same size. So I called them and told them i had two right rears - they said they would replace it with the proper one if i sent the one down to them. And they did the exchange and sent me the new one at no charge. And I have to say that this one was miles ahead in terms of fit and finish, all the bends were in the right place and no cutting, 3 months ago I wouldn't have bought from them, but now I would't think twice!











Other pics I have missed posting:














I must have went through 10 tubes of seam sealer! I sealed the hell out of every nook and cranny before i did the por-15, This car is gonna see as much road action as possible!


8-3-2012


its been such a long time but that time is finally here! I just got my car back from the shop - it still needs a wet sand and then clearcoat but for now I can start to put it together! It'll be awhile again before I get to work on her (being summer there is just so much to do!) But I should have this girl ready by spring! In the next couple weeks I'll probably end up doing some smaller things like painting the dash, welding the k frame ect. I'll keep you guys posted!








well summer is wrapping up, I only have autox days left this year, and a baby due any day now, I've been trying to get some renos done before the little one gets here, but I thought I'd show that I have started a little bit of work on the old gal, I've painted some pieces before it gold too cold outside with por-15




interior pieces I painted with VHT roll bar chassis black (satin), still the best paint out there:







I bought some of that B-Quiet (basically dynamat without the logo) goes on great! I've started on the roof and doors, I sealed the seams with the aluminum foil tape as well:





Then I put ontop an aluminum bubble wrap (foil on both sides) for added sound deadner and insulation seeing how it weighs nothing at all, I'm just using it it on the roof, doors, and firewall...




10-4-2012


its gonna be a really busy winter if I want to drive this in spring! I wasn't sure about adding the bubble wrap to the floor, i Don't think it'll do much good - But I will be doing the B-Quiet on the firewall, wheel wells, and if there is enough left over, in the trunk as well, I bought a body plug kit somewhere from year one, I gotta search through all the stuff I bought over the past year to find it so I can put them in before the B-Quiet, also If I can find the interior screw kit I can install my headliner and a,b pillar and window moldings...


10-17-2012


I got a present today in the mail:

My new spoiler from spoilers by randy! - http://www.spoilersbyrandy.com/Pages/default.aspx

its the first one for the 71-72 roadrunners!




his pic mounted on a front valance:




I'll get some mounted pics here on friday in the daylight when I'm not working so you can see it on the front of the car before I get it painted!!


11-11-2012




 Originally Posted by dangina 



I'll get some mounted pics here on friday in the daylight when I'm not working so you can see it on the front of the car before I get it painted!!


its unfortunate but the spoiler just didn't fit right, had a huge gaps on both sides so I tried my spare valance and same thing. Randy was kind enough to refund my money and is back at the drawing board - he is gonna contact me when the new prototype is finished. 


Some changes has happend since I posted this - that friday I mentioned that I was suppose to mount this spoiler, someone decided to turn my world upside down:




His name is Axle Slade and he came into the world on friday Oct19 at 9:04pm weighing in at 7 lbs 8 oz! Future Mopar member, can't wait to finish the car and take him for a rip in the runner like my dad did when I was his age!


Found some pics of at the bodyshop before I got her painted:







I probably spent over 10-20 hours with a pic cleaning these by hand after I acid dipped them to get the 40 year old paint/rust off.



and then painted them on the one side that you see when the door is open



And I am now finally finished with the sound deadner in my car. It took almost a full 3 rolls of B-Quiet. For further reference it took:

1 roll did the roof, doors, and inner fenders to the trunk on the car

1 roll did the firewall to the rear passenger seats flooring

last roll did the trunk and any little place I missed with some spare left over!

I added close to 90lbs to my car but its all good weight? 

I Think it took about 30 hrs to do the installation...









I also dropped the whole front suspension outta the car, on my next days off I'll be welding them up and getting them powdercoated! stay tuned!


11-20-2012


 Originally Posted by dusterbd13 

sice we drive our cars a lot, ive started considering sound deadining and insulation good weight.


and had i realized you were using the foil backed b-quiet, i would not have reccoemnded to use the bubble wrap. 


did you do the roof?



In the photos you can see I did the b-quiet first, then the foil bubblewrap overtop, the foil bubble wrap weighs absolutly nothing - I can't see the harm in extra sound deadning....


I sent the front suspension parts off for sandblasting but first I had to get the old bushing out of the LCA's - The trick with welding a washer to a bolt, then weld to the bushing, worked really well, so well it only took 2 hits with a hammer to get it out!






I got my front suspension sandblasted parts back, time to start welding!




I got worried when I read here or on another forum about a guy who bent his LCA sway bar brackets after he installed his bigger front sway bar, I wish he had a pic of it so I new where it 

had bent, so I took no chance and just strengthened where I thought it would happen:





Welded up the k-member and strengthened the areas others have shown on the net, as well as over most of the factory welds:











I built my own skid plate as well, also made sure that i could get my 1 1/4" big hollow front sway bar in there:







And now off to the powdercoaters!


11-23-2012


^Thanks!


Well I dropped off the K-member at the powdercoaters yesterday, Today I powdercoated all the smaller pieces that can fit in an oven(My buddy has a small setup). For my first time doing it, I can say they turned out pretty good! So good, I'm considering buying a setup for myself 







11-24-2012


thanks guys! I used this setup - and they are having 65% off black friday sales at the moment, lets see If I can convince the wife for christmas 


http://www.eastwood.com/hotcoat-powder-coating.html


12-16-2012


things have slowed down due to the new kid, but I have been plugging away - heres what I have been working on:


Started putting the doors together, the regulators were filthy from years of sitting - time to work some magic:


dirty on the bottom and clean on top!






The big one - restoring a 71 rallye cluster from start to finish. This is how I did it.


what i had to start with:





no more old wiring gremlins!!!




Light switch:







high/low beam floor switch:





Wiper switch:





Temp control:












12-16-2012


Now the hard part:




started on the gauge face plates, I used the 3M Headlight restore kit, I thought "what the hell, they're both plastic, should work for this as well" I also did this to the temp control plate as well:






Went to a hobby shop and got a paint that I thought would look close to original and this stuff was bang on and it went on beautifully with no runs - Tamiya TS-1 Red Brown. Goes on light brown but dries to what I wanted. First I sanded and painted the whole shelll:




I wasn't sure how to get the black in the wood like on the original, so I improvised, I thought if I could paint the background in a matt black and paint over top it might bleed through the paint. I used a acrylic paint which was messy to work with and it ran like crazy and pooled up alot so i had to keep wiping it down so the layer wouldn't get to thick, It was a PITA and I reccomend a different method but it ended up in my favor, I tried fingerpainting all the areas where the black was on the shell:






Next I painted a very light layer of the red brown again:






next I sanded the gauge pods and wiper/light switch areas, masked them and painted them a semi gloss:





Now this was the most stressful step of them all - applying the silver to the outer edges of the pods, switches and shell, I used a automotive GM Silver, comes as a 2 for 1, light bruch or can be used as a pen, i used the brush. It is hard to work with, you have to keep moving in one direction and it with thicken up on you if you overlap the previous area too much (it starts to dry pretty quick) This would be easy if you were a pin stripper, but for us joes its passable and didn't end up to bad:







Now all together: (I tried taking different pics in different light)







1-19-2013


 Originally Posted by Hufham78 

Did you have to cut out any part of your k member for a bigger sway bar? The skid plate you made looks a lot better than a lot of others I have seen.


thanks for the compliment! you can see in the pic with the bigger sway bar - this was the widest I could make the skid plate without notching or cutting the kframe. So it has plenty of room if you running just a stock kframe with no plate.

sorry guys the posts have been slow - being a new dad and getting overrun at work, my progress has slowed down, but hasn't stopped - heres what I hae been up to so far:


I got the new rallyes from year one :






1 1/2" clearance to the rear springs



1/1/4" to inside front lip I ay get a 1" spacer down the road:



My firewall was cracked when I first bought the car I figured it was because of the heavy heater core being held on by 4 screw heads and nothing else, So i ade a pattern and took it to the metal fab shop here intown and made my own aluminum plate so all 4 points are on the same plane - its made from 1/4" aluminum!





got the kframe back from the powdercoaters!




cleaned up my heater box, put it together, sealed it, new weatherstripping, good as new!




got my quarter windows tinted with factory tint:




rear window with limo tint




cleaned up my rear window regulators




painted the window wiper assembly - looks darker in person:




I have the windows in, just wasting so much time aligning them up - I never wanna do this again when its over - i probably wasted at least 3 hours per window. will take a pic when finished. Also have the underside of the dash finished but I was gonna go with a stock clutch setup but now I'm thinking hydraulic. More posts to come...


1-20-2013


 Originally Posted by Hufham78 

I would say you can achieve that with both engine. I guess it would all depend on what you want to use it for, a driver or a occasional use car?


gonna use if for a daily driver (spring/fall) and for the 10 autox events we have here If I could run it at 87 for daily driving and 91 for autox that would be awesome. I would like around 500 torque, anything more then I would have to upgrade exhaust, rear end, fuel pump, fuel lines ect ect

also down the road if I want more power I can change the pistons, upgrade the exhaust ect ect


1-23-2013


 Originally Posted by 67Mopar 

Are you going with a ready made kit (440source, etc), or individual components from various manufactures?


I think I'll stick with the muscle motors kit - Brads70 has had good luck with them, so have other members on moparts. I have seen/heard mixed reviews on the 440source kits-they're also more expensive than the muscle motor kits. I still have to take my block in to get it checked and see what pistons I will need. I'm also have a hard time trying to decide on what cam I want. I would love the 2000-6000 range - strong mid range with a good choppy/rough idle. Nothing is gets the juices going like the sound of a big block sitting idly by until it wakes up! I don't care about vaccum as I'm running manual brakes. 



Great glad to see you made a choice. I seen you got a air grabber hood from AAR Fiberglass. I have been looking for one to put on my 74 Charger and no one makes it in glass.


true. But we had a hell of a time making it functional. By that I mean getting the proper studs to fit without breaking(which half of them did so we reinforced the bases with carbon fiber) also were still trying to reinforce the door so it can open and close(still not done, have to add carbon fiber to the cheap fiberglass) its like they used body filler to reinforce the areas like the stud mounts. Not what I was expecting. Also where the door rotates on the pins you have to cut it all out and reinforce it yourself (I don't understand why its not a replica of the original design, when I asked they said they never had a customer try to make it functional. Why bother if its not functional????) I should have went with no air grabber as I also found out about a month back that if you run any manifold other than the stock intake, you have to cut and modify the airgrabber base about 1-1 1/2" lower as the aftermarket intakes sit a little too high. I'll have to do that whenever I get the engine in. I'd suggest go with a nonAG or if you do - buy the fiberglass hood mount seperate like from P&G or ABE


4-13-2013


Been busy trying the past couple months, been trying to work on the car whenever the little guy is sleeping, I pulled apart the 400 and took it into the machine shop. Its a good virgin block and will work great for my 470" kit from muscle motors (which has been 2 months and still haven't recieved it yet)




Installed the headliner from year one (which is from PUI) I would not reccomend getting it from them as they sowed 2 bows in the wrong spot and I realised this wasn't gonna work after we had already cut up the material. So with summer coming fast I drilled new holes, sowed on extra fabric on the front to make this work. Its ok but not great. I will replace it with one from legendary down the road when i have more time to do so, but for now it'll work. 








painting some forgotten interior parts





washed the seat belts with laundry soap in a tub, then washed them off and dried them with the air gun. They look like new!





Installed the rear panels - had to repair one of them, turned out pretty good









installed front and rear speakers


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so I built my own hydraulic clutch bracket from 1/8" plate for my wilwood compact 7/8" MC:


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added spacers and welded on the nuts and drilled out the stock holes:


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drilled out the angle for the MC, didn't like the angle of first try which is why you see unused holes:


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cut off any extra unsed weight


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paint!


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the firewall wasn't perfectly straight so I had to cut somemore off, final look:


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installed!


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found a graet place to mount my wilwood bottle for the MC:


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little guy dropped in to see what I was doing:


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installed dash and for the insert It wasn't as bad as the instrument cluster for wear, so I tried the method of clear paint and painted the edges with the silver paint pen. Its too shiny and about two shades darker than my cluster now so I may change one or the other down the road but for now its going in:


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rear seat mockup:


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installed the front and rear windshield yesterday:


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now time to pull out that rear!!!!!



5-3-2013


thanks guys - bleeding the mc will be fine! 


I've been working like a dog at work and have been picking up a ton of overtime, which I am doing more tomorrow, but I'll show you what I have done so far before my next set of days off next week:


I picked up a ton of parts after getting my passport finally - some items I have aquired:


QFT 830cfm, mechanical secondaries, annular boosters, electric choke - I wanted the double pumper but they don't make them with an electric choke and I plan to drive this from spring-fall so I went with an electric choke setup instead.




electric cuttouts for the exhaust!




I also picked up my front and rear from a car I thought would fit. I wanted a functional rear spoiler so I am using this one:









It turned out better than I had thought! and to top it off I also used the front spoiler off the same car which equally looks just as good - can you figure out what car they're from? 








Have you guessed it?

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Its a from a 67 camaro! Haters are gonna hate.




the front spoiler from spoilers by randy still hasn't fit right and I'm not crazy on the design, Plus the camaro was only $20 for the front and $120 for the rear both included shipping!! I thought they would fit looking at a 67 camaro at the world of wheels and thought if it didn't fit I could easily sell them. Actually for $20 I bought the 68-69 front spoiler as well but I liked the bigger 67 instead 


I started tearing into my rear end now the windshields were in and no longer taking up space. I matched up the old springs to the new fiberglass ones:





One the hypercoil website it says a 4.5" ark but you can see its almost 6" I was wondering if that meant after they settled? I left them on the car for a week and it actually settled over 1/4" 




old spring for reference:




there is some slop on the bottom leaf stud, but I found some brass bushings off one of our old machines that have been discontinued and they work perfect!




I just put a couple spot welds on the bottom to prevent it from falling out


[URL=http://s187.photobucket.com/user/y2kdano/media/1971%20Plymouth%20Roadrunner/IMG_20130425_195059_zpsf12d3b0f.jpg.html][/URL


Now with the rear diff out I'm starting to make a few improvements, first I drilled three holes. Why 3 holes? the two one the bottom - one is a oil drain, the other for a future rear differential pump, the top one for the rear diff cooler return. I will be welding on the 1/2" female bungs next week. It may be a year or 5 years or never, but at least now I won't have to pull the rear diff when I want to do it. I'lll also be running as extra power source for the pump but I'll probably leave it in the trunk for now until that day comes:





I changed the wheel bearings (what a pain in the A$$) and here you can see doctor diff's billet adjuster:




Here is something that hasn't gone so smooth - I bought the same seals as autox cuda (from: http://www.sealsit.com/axlehub.asp) and I drilled out the inside weld in the rear diff, I had also shaved the edge off the seal that was meant for fords, but I was only able to press it in as far as past the first oil ring on the seal (the seal has 3) looking at the chart on the website I should have went with one size smaller (either the blue or gold one) 


I taped them off so I can grind off the edge without getting any fillings in the seal




I tried taking a pic as best as I could with the little room in the housing you can see the gap on the sides:






Thats it for now, I hope to have the rear axle and suspension done next week on my next days off!!!


7-3-2013


been busy working lots of overtime, bought a acreage, but haven't stopped working on the car - just slowed down. I'll start with the rear spoiler and what I have found:


I did some reasearch and found out that the 69 spoiler was longer but no one knew how by how much. So I bought one anyways and here is what I have found out:


the 69 spoiler came in and its exactly 2" longer - just the length I need! although the 68 spoiler is almost a 1/4" taller in height, they are the same width in the base. The mounting holes are suppose to be the same, except it all depends on who fiberglassed them in place and where. I had to file each hole a bit, or alot, to make it fit but it was close. Pics for those who are interested:

67-68 top

69 bottom



67-68 top length

69 bottom



67-68 height



69 height



67-68 rear decklid



69 rear decklid







On to the back of the car:


I welded a nut on the inside to prevent the seal from coming forward(not that it should, just some added insurance)




I made this up so the welds won't harm the seal:





welded a backbrace on the rear end, I also welded on 4 1/2" npt bungs - one for putting in oil, on for a drain, the other two for a rear diff pump/cooler down the road if I ever want to do one - this just saves me time doing it later:








doctor diff eaton true track 3:55 gears! 408 casing:






front leaf spring hanger, welded them up for extra strength:



 




I let the car rest on the springs for a few weeks before I did this install - I'm running sliders and wanted the leafs to settle before I put them in:


I should also mention the the mounting point on the rear leaf springs are about a 1/2" out (20.5" instead of 20" front segment, this also confirmed with the ones brad bought from his challenger) coupled with the thicker bracket moves your rear wheels back about 3/4" total. This also increases your wheel base which is good for better stability at higher speeds like roadraces but not so for the agility aspect. That and it may lmake your tire look funny in the wheel well a little bit. I don't have the wheels mounted yet, if it bugs me enough I may have to do what brad did and weld up the front holes on the front leaf spring bracket and drill out the holes where I want them.


lined up where they will be (black line indicating where the sliders should be):




Drilled some extra holes for welding:









showed my boy what I was working on:




now I came with two problems with the sliders first was that the metal sleeve that came with the sliders was a about a size or two bigger than the one the fiberglass leaf springs came with so I had to dremel the poly a little bit before I get them pressed in




and second the washers that come with the sliders are two thick (you can only get one in and it was tight) so I dremel the outside in a taper so I can run the thinner, smaller washers on the inside:





I ended drilling out the center of these washers to make it work






went to install the hewig sway bar, they give you this piece that you have to weld on one side and it has this huge spacer on the other side - I thought that was stupid why didn't they just give you the length you need and weld it on both sides with washers to make it stronger? so thats what I did:


helwig way top:

my way bottom:






When it was time to mount the sway bar to the rear axle, the Helwig bar utilizes Ubolts to mount the lower brakets. I forgot that I welded the backbrace on so I couldn't utilize them, so out came the welder again:






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installed Dr.Diff 11.7" rear brake kit and hotchkis rear shocks


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now onto the front!!!


 Originally Posted by Demonizer 

Man those rear disks look nice!!! And they use the stock tapered bearings. 


I may have to reconsider switching all my cars to 11x2.5" drums and start looking at Dr. Diffs disk conversion.

the price is right and they came with everything you need, cass is a good man to talk to and even had the patience to answer any question I had


3-22-2014


So its been a crazy -CRaZY past 8 months with work averaging about 60-70 hrs/week. The financial part of it is good but its taking its toll. I have been working on the roadrunner here and there, it seems I love to do things at least twice, the longer it sits, the more I change my mind  


I got my 47-ci stroker back finally, the stock covers are on just to protect the valvetrain, they are also wrapped up underneath, I have some aluminum covers that I'll be painting to match and putting on.




I had to grind one area on the box for clearance, painted it up




got some new hood pins!




Brads70 on the forum here complained that his monotube shocks were too bouncy with the hyperco leaf springs, he switched to QA1 double adjustables and the problem went away. Even though the ones he had were bilsteins, I decided to sell the hotchkis fox racing ones for these for peace of mind:




I bought this to try on my cra, its for a barracuda, I thought the lower pans looked the same and you don't know until you try it, too bad it doesn't fit my car, its a nice big spoiler, I'll have to stick to the camaro one for now




I was reading on the forums you can get these boots for the rod heim ends, I'm just choked I didn't know about this sooner, you can buy them from seals-it. not sure if they are entirely worth it, but again peace of mind. I tore apart my entire front suspension to get these back on.










So reading more on the forums i decided to give this a try, the stock endlinks that came with the hellwig swap bar was a long 5/16" bolt that was on a huge angle to the lca hole and the holes at both ends had so much slop to them I never cared for it. This seemed like a good solution. The are actually ford endlinks for their explorer? They are Moog#K750074. With the dual pillowballs I can get the angles I want with no slop!


Using a 5/16" bronze bushing, I installed them on both the LCA and sway bar:






Cut them down shorter to what I needed:




final assembly:





Some of the guys shorten them an inch, or cut them down to make them adjustable, I'll leave them for now as they are still about 1-2" higher than the balljoint.


I was never happy with the way the wheel sits in the center, with the longer brackets and shorter spring, It seem like I was still about a 1 1/2" off center more towards the rear, seeing how I left about 2 inches towards the front of my sliders at full rebound, I figure I could get that back and still have a 1/2" to spare. So I took my brackets and re-drilled them 1 1/2" back and for fun about another 1/4" up! drop that rear baby!


before:





1 1/2" back




Finished!




Since I moved my rear axle back to where it needed to be, I had to also move the sway bar endlink mounts, I didn't like the hellwig 8" long mounts with bushings, so I thought I'd go with 1/2" adjustable heim links. 


had to file the inside of skid 40 3/8" steel tubing to get the 1/2" bolts to fit, its pretty snug!




welded, painted and body sealed and painted again! then hook up. Using steel heim links for now until I get some aluminum ones







Started on the hardlines for my brake lines:





thats all for now, I'm actually just about finished my front end except I ran into complications. The solid tie rod sleeves I bought from PST were over 1" shorter than stock tie rod ends so I couldn't finish the front end until I get some new ones. A BIG THANKS TO BRADS70!!!! for coming to my rescue and tooling up some and shipping them to me which arrived today! I'll have more updates the next set of days off...


5-16-2014


So I have been busy...to prove it we added another little guy to the family - his name is Sylvester Gauge but we just call him Gauge:





started working on rebuilding the shifter, What a PITA to put back together! Whats worse was half way through building it I found that the brewers "rebuild kit" does not include everything. I had to wait for parts to finish it:





So I had a couple days off and had to rush finishing the brake lines so I can get the motor in, so I have room on the floor for my wifes motor and tranny for her duster. I never had so many leaks in my entire life I think I bent and flared every line to the rear diff at least 3 times. Plus dumped about 2 bottles of brake fluid all on the fender and on me. I was not happy. I found out that if you use the longer fittings they seem to help.





But secretly I really did them so I could finish one of my secret projects I thought of two years ago and is now just finished:


so I had to drill out holes in the bracket so I could have the smallest footprint possible:




I had to mark and drill holes in the floorpan for the lines and bolt the bracket to the floor. The bracket holes are exactly on either side of the torsion bar support rail. And it's the possition I want when I'm sitting down (luckily)




the patch that is in place under the bracket so i can remove the carpet and the bracket stays in place




drilled out the holes I need on the new hurst shifter handleL:




Put it all together(sorry for taking the pic at a bad angle ):






Run the brake lines so they clear the torsion bar hole in case of removal:




And you got the worlds first Hydraulic ebrake pistol grip! Cool part now is my car will have both the 71 short shift and the 71 bench seat shifter in one car!




Cleaning up the center console:




got the aluminum pullys and brackets powdercoated:




Dropped in the new motor!




threw in my headman headers to check for clearance with the boregson box, seems theres a ton of room all around and clears my fast ratio arms as well!:






got my parts for the shift and got working on the tranny, its the numbers matching A833 for my car, sat on the owners garage floor the last 20 years, still had oil in it, changed the speedo gear and seals to match my 3:55 truetrack, and painted it grey (previous owner painted it sublime green)




got my new american powetrain bellhousing for my 11" flywheel setup, beatiful piece, 2 starter positions for the 10.5 and 11" setup, also it has holes on the backside to be mounted to other transmissions, very cool:




Put it all together and what do you got?!




9-6-2014


 Originally Posted by 70chall440 

Nice ingenuity; you are running a pistol grip on your trans and on your Ebrake?

Yep! I'll be running my oem short pistol grip on the tranny, and the bench pistol grip for the ebrake! 


Sorry about the long delay in posts guys, man didn't think i was this far behind - I seem to have been posting slower than a snail in heat! just waiting for 2 key parts to arrive before i can post what i have been doing in its entirety.


9-18-2014


Sorry for the long wait guys, I have 5 things on the go and was waiting for it all to be finished before I post them - here' s one project that I recently finished: A airgrabber on a RPM intake that actually fits under the hood, another guy tried this on roadrunnernest.com where he cut just enough and cheat it slightly but the hood really pressed down on the intake, I wanted something that was a perfect fit, I bought this base from YearOne, its a cheap fiberglass base that you don't have to worry about cutting into it, and it feels significantly lighter compared to the steel OEM base. I may weight it later to see the weight savings...



cut the hole i wanted - wanted to get it as low as possible so I have no issues: 




My QFT carb has two screws on the car that were preventing it from going lower, the nuts are just the size i need to putty over








my dad teaching me how to work with carbon fiber






Use the piece I cut off to trace out the size of the hole




slowly sand to where I want it




sand, paint, put her on - a perfect fit!!




More stuff to come!


9-24-2014


Thanks! Next on the list is my custom hub and steering wheel setup - I got sick and tired trying to find a aftermarket hub for our bbodies so I decided to get one made. I like the bigger grips of the aftermarket wheels available for my big mits. I bought this hub, its for an ebody (what a heavy beast) but it gave me enough matierial to shave off what I needed. 





I had a machine shop shave it down to this:




got it powdercoated black 




old height stock wheel 5 3/8" deep




new height with MOMO steering wheel 3 1/8" deep




New 350mm MOMO wheel compared to the stock OEM one




I bought a 1970 steering wheel decal and was hoping it would be big enough to fit the whole MOMO button and it did, what I didn't know is about the 1970 decal is that the sticky side is on the picture side not the back side, so I took it to a local decal shop and got some made:




sanded the MOMO button (it has raised lettering with wet sand paper until she was flat:






TA-DA! The end result!





I also should note that I had to bend the flasher more straight so it wouldn't interfere with the new wheel setup!


10-1-2014


 Originally Posted by Brads70 

I like the thickness of your steering wheel. I've been wanting to get my repop tuff wheel leather wrapped to make it thicker.


Honestly I wish it was even thicker - its 30mm, I have a Momo Coarse one on my race care and its as thick in some spots as 38mm, but doesn't look right on a muscle car.


10-19-2014


bought blank aluminum valve covers and had my buddy tig weld the plates on he cut from his small home cnc machine:







painted the front of my rad support with plastidip, just in case if i didn't like it, i could always peel it off





11-6-2014


thanks guys!


so I work 12hr days 4 on 4 off 4 nights 4 off. But the past month and for the next 2 months I have been working 2-3-even 4 of my days off trying to save up so we can build our dream house, and dad gets the shop he's always wanted. Needless to say I haven't been working on the car, but I have finally uploaded most of the pics I have, sadly I lost alot of good pics somewhere, I need to have this car finished by spring, correction, I HAVE to finish this car by spring or it'll never get done if were building a house. Im close but still oh so far...


Didn't like the look of a huge aluminum square in the front of my car so I painted it black, I've read alot of circle track guys do this anyways so I don't see the harm:





installed!




So AutoX cuda inspired me to do a similar setup for my breathers, like the old trams am racers, I bought aluminum 1 1/4" tubing (sorry not sure were the photos went) and 1 1/4" aluminum 90 degree bends, two 1 1/4" K&N breathers, and 2 goodyear 1 1/4" rad hoses Part #60083, had my buddy weld it up the lips on the valve covers to mount them, and weld up the pipes. Got it powder coated black, I think it looks really good! It also clears the airgrabber setup on my hood:






got tired of waiting for my MP viscous fan setup so I went to the yard and bought this fan from a 90 dodge truck with a 318




got it powdercoated, new clutch and fan shroud and installed 




bought a new heatercore (it was bugging me that it was the only thing that hasn't been replaced) to my surprise (not really) it was no where near where I needed it mounted so I had to resolder the mounting plate 




I didn't like the fact that the only option for a torque strap out there was a $100 option, So I made this for les than $10, grade 8 fine thread rod, 3/8" heim link and the washers/bushings from my prothane kit that were suppose to be for a stock sway bar, but seeing how I'm running the bigger Hellwig's, they were perfect!




my almost 2 year old son decided that he wanted to install it!




I installed the TTI exhaust with the dougs cuttouts, fit pretty good, the only thing I had to modify was the pipe from on the passenger side from header to cutout:





I bought some premium 2/0 cable for my battery relocation, I wanted 1/0 but this is what my buddy had, he's in the custom stereo business and even at his price it was $7.50 a foot, but as big as this stuff is, you can bend it around your wrist, its that flexible! And the amp draw you can pull on this stuff makes welding cable look like yesterdays knob and tube. This pic is the comparison of the two. 




I bought 3/4" wheel spacer adapters for all for corners, premium quality all made with grade 10 bolts, the reason behind this was 

1) To clear the long hub on the front of the car for my wheels

2) widen the track as much as possible


Since I'll be running the Enkei RPF1 18X9.5" +15mm on all 4 corners these will push those wheels out as far as I'd like to go. Now that I have the wheels I could have went with the 18X10.5" +15mm but I would have to extend the wheel studs and use a 10mm spacer. So for now I'm gonna use these rims and do the bigger rims down the road. 

I am a little bit too close for comfort in the rear so I have shaved the inner lip as much as I possibly could to get more clearance, as you can see it was never a straight line to begin with, I gained as much as 3/8" in some areas and as little as 1/8." overall I have about 1/2" clearance from the tire to the inner lip, I'll get more pics on that later:




Last but not least I finally got my hands on a radio delete bezel!!!!! and a tach option dash as well!!!! (paid way to much for them) This is so cool I just wanna mount it on my wall! I restored the guages like I did with my other bezel, used my 150 mph speedo, cleaned it all up nice, I may do a layer of clearcoat on the bezel, haven't decided yet...





finished my custom slave cylinder, Had to put two clearance dents on the header but other than that I think this should work awsome! I could not for the life of me drill any holes in the clutch fork(must be made up of adamantium) So I had to weld on the extend plate for the clutch (i wanted to have it bolt on originally), tapped the push rod all the way, heres what I got so far:








So that's kinda where I'm at at the moment 


1-19-2015


 Originally Posted by 72BBSwinger 

Awesome update Dan! FYI, if those valve covers are not baffled from end to end, plan on oil every where.


they have baffles under the openings will this be alright?


Work has finally slowed down and I'm focusing now on the wiring, problem is I'm running all brand new wiring as my old wiring is either chopped, cut, bastardized or just missing. Problem is a lot of the new wiring is same but not the same. To help identify the wiring I'm currently making a picture wiring manual for future users who don't want to spend hours like I'm doing, trying to figure out where everything goes. I've spent some time doing this - hope it helps those down the road. 


What I need/want from the mopar community is to help me identify the connectors, and what they plug into. Just write the pic# in the reply and type A) what its for, B) what it plugs into. Also, as I have found out already, do not throw away your old harnesses, some of the wires from your old harness may have to be reused with the new harness. If I had made a mistake, please let me know and I'll correct it asap. 


DONOT FORGET TO USE DIELECTRIC GREASE OR CRC 2-26 SPRAY FOR YOUR ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS, ESPECIALLY FOR THE BULKHEAD CONNECTORS!!!


***update (1) had to switch the brown and red wire leads on the windshield wiper motor harness as they were backwards when plugged into the bulkhead***


***update (2) M&H for some reason moved the horn wiring from the lamp harness to the engine harness, and they moved the low brake switch wiring from the engine harness to the lamp harness. So if one wanted to run a mix of old harnesses and new, you would have to change these wires in the actual harness themselves to get it to work.***




Now let's begin:




Main Dash Harness for 1971 Plymouth / Dodge Bbody With Rallye Dash (M&H Electric / YO):



(pic1) 


(pic2)



(pic3)



1) 2 wires, both dark blue with yellow stripes 

A) headlamp washer, whatever accessory on the car - rear deffog, powered trunk latch, A/C clutch source

B) This was used for more than one option, youget in fact those feeds full in 71, a bit less in 72. 73/74s got less accessories options and they got just one mold instead two on Harness. All extra stuff to be plugged on those molds USUALLY match the color of the molds on harness. You can see it on the A/C clutch feed of the pic 50, male is molded in yellow same as the harness mold... its a 20 amps fused source BTW


(pic4)



1) brown wire with white stripe

A) headlamp washer

B) The rubber grommet goes into the hole, through the fire wall, its the upper hole near the master cylinder (or booster)


(pic5)



1) dark blue wire with yellow stripe, black wire with red stripe

A) concealed headlamps

B) for dodge chargers not used on GTX/Roadrunner/Satellite


2) Other side of brown wire with white stripe

A) headlamp washer

B) engine side for headlamp washer


(pic6)



1) 2 solid orange wires, one red wire with white stripe, solid black wire

A) AM Radio

b) Radio Harness


(pic7)



1) solid tan wires to 3 port yellow female connector

A) accessory feed

B) ?


(pic8)



1) solid pink wire

A) stop lamp switch

B) switch on brake pedal


2) solid white wire 

A) stop lamp switch

B) switch on brake pedal


(pic9)



1) solid yellow wire, solid black wire, blue wire with white stripe, solid brown wire, solid red wire, solid orange wire, solid black wire, solid black wire

A) steering column

B) steering column harness


2) black wire white stripe, solid light green wire, solid tan wire, solid pink wire, solid red wire, solid dark green wire, solid brown wire, solid white wire

A) steering column

B) steering column harness 


(pic10)



(pic10a)



1) solid pink wire, black wire with white stripe

A) hazard flasher

B) electronic flasher


(pic 11)



1) 2 solid black wires, 2 black wires with yellow stripe

A) headlamp-on warning buzzard

B) harness gets an extra pigtail to reach the buzzer mounted on dash frame between glovebox and ashtray. Buzzer gets a plug like the blinker flashers ones.


2) 2 yellow wires with black stripes

A) to ignition switch lamp time delay relay wiring

B) It is used for the little lite that shines from the steering column to the ignition key hole when the door is opened.


(pic12)



1) solid orange wire

A) cluster illumination lamp

B) back of rallye dash


2) solid tan wire

A) right turn signal indicator lamp

B) back of rallye dash


3) solid grey wire

A) oil gauge

B) back of rallye dash


4) solid dark blue wire

A) fuel gauge 

B) back of rallye dash


(pic13)



1) solid orange wire

A) cluster illumination lamp

B) back of rallye dash


2) solid violet wire

A) temperature gauge

B) back of rallye dash


3) black wire with white stripe

A) instrument cluster ground

B) voltage limiter have three prongs on back light face ( dunno if call it front or back LOL, because on standard cluster they are used backwards LOL )... two of them are actually an U shaped sheet. These two get the POSITIVE SOURCE from harness and the condenser noise suppressor which is attached with a phillips screw on back of cluster.. 3rd prong is the 5 volts output for gauges... it gets a small pigtail which sources all the gauges on the black wire.


The black wire with white stripe SHOULD be a wider terminal to be plugged onto the prong ( and bracket at the same time ) welded to voltage limiter "back case". This is made intentionally to NOT BE ABLE TO ATTACH by mistake the positive wire from harness on it ( would get a short as soon you put the key in RUN or ACC with this connected wrong ), since the prong on limiter case is also wider, matching the ground source plug


***UPDATE (3) I had to rob the bigger black connector off of my old harness because M&H uses a smaller connector and it won't fit on the voltage limiter prong (easy to do, use a flat head precision screwdriver and go through the front of the connector - the opposite end the wire goes into - and slide the screwdriver between the plastic housing and the metal connector) pic13a shows the wire on the old connector and the new smaller one I pulled off the harness beside it***


(pic13a)



(pic14)



1) solid red wire

A) ammeter gauge

B) back of rallye dash


2) solid black wire

A) ammeter gauge

B) back of rallye dash


3) solid black wire

A) POSITIVE source for voltage limiter 

B) plugs straight to voltage limiter double prong


4) solid orange wire

A) cluster illumination lamp

B) back of rallye dash


(pic15)




1) solid red wire, solid black wire

A) turn signal flasher

B) electronic flasher


(pic16)



1) solid green wire

A) concealed headlamp relay

B) be sure to tape over the ring terminals or cut them out completely


2) 2 dark blue wires with white stripe

A) concealed headlamp relay

B) be sure to tape over the ring terminals or cut them out completely


3) dark blue wire with yellow stripe, black wire with red stripe

A) concealed headlamps

B) for dodge chargers not used on GTX/Roadrunner/Satellite


(pic17)



1) solid red wire, solid pink wire

A) cigar lighter

B) cigar lighter back of ash tray


2) solid orange wire

A) ash tray receiver lamp

B) back of ash tray


(pic18)



1) 2 solid pink wires to 3 port red mold 

A) battery feed

B) glove box lamp, map lamp harness


(pic19)



1) 2 solid yellow wires to 3 port black mold

A) Lamp ground 

B) for map, courtesy lamp, open door indicator lamp, rear door light switch


(pic20)



1) yellow wire with black stripe, solid yellow wire

A) right front door automatic switch

B) passenger door switch


(pic21)



1) solid light green wire

A) left turn signal indicator lamp

B) back of rallye dash


2) solid orange wire

A) cluster illumination lamp

B) back of rallye dash


3) solid orange wire

A) cluster illumination lamp

B) back of rallye dash


(pic22)



1) solid orange wire

A) cluster illumination lamp

B) back of rallye dash


2) back wire with white stripe, dark blue wire with white stripe

A) brake system warning lamp

B) back of rallye dash


3) solid orange wire

A) cluster illumination lamp

B) back of rallye dash


4) solid red wire

A) high beam indicator lamp

B) back of rallye dash


(pic23)



1) 2 solid yellow wires, 2 solid light green wires, one solid tan wire, one solid pink wire, one black wire with white stripe, one black wire with yellow stripe, one solid black wire

A) headlamp switch

B) headlamp switch back of rallye dash


(pic24)



1) is a 71 setup... the one piece plug to wiper switch began on 72, when wiper switches were smaller. Same wires though on diff prongs disposition

A) windshield wiper switch

B) wiper switch back of rallye dash


(pic25)



1) **the M&H harness just came with the black wire with white stripe, I had to add this to the red connector myself**one solid dark green wire, one solid light green wire, one solid brown wire, black wire with white stripe

A) heater blower switch

B) heater blower under dash passenger footwell, heater and A/C harnesses are separated from the underdash harness and instead are just linked ( according with your car equipment ) with the Underdash harness they are used to switch the input on the bulkhead for blower source green wire ( and blue wire clutch if AC ). If you had A/C must use the empty cavity on the A/C harness ( pic 49#2 ) to insert it there the black traced wire is left alone on the Underdash harness, just like I did with Heater harness.


(pic26)



(pic26a)



1) 2 solid orange wires, one solid black wire, one black wire with white stripe

A) light for Heater-A/C control face

B) plugs into a small pigtail harness for it using dual bulb on 71/72 correctly shown on 26 A (use from your existing harness


1-19-2015


(pic27)



1) solid orange wire to 3 port orange mold

A) accessory title lamp

B) lamp source for accessories switch under the dash... Air Ram, Rear Deffog, whatever switch down the dash driver side


2) solid orange wire

A) ***from your old harness***

B) orange circuit is for cluster dimmed sources. Center console is the one I meant which dims out the same than cluster, and also radio faceplate ( hence the orange wire arriving to Radio )


3) solid orange wire

A) ***from your old harness***

B) orange circuit is for cluster dimmed sources. Center console is the one I meant which dims out the same than cluster, and also radio faceplate ( hence the orange wire arriving to Radio )


(pic 28)



1) black wire with white stripe

A) parking brake lamp switch

B) to a switch on the emergency brake that triggers a light in the dash when the emergency brake is engaged or if the brake pressure fails. The switch is just a ground to activate the light.


2) 2 solid light green wires 

A) time delay for headlights 

B) delay relay gets an extra harness for that plug, separate option on B bodies, more common on C bodies


(pic 29)



1) one solid yellow wire, one yellow wire with black stripe, one solid black wire

A) left front door automatic switch 

b) driver's side door 


(pic 30)



1) solid black wire

A) harness ground

B) actually the underdash frame gets a J nut attached around the emergency brake area. Thats a ground source for the harness.


(pic 31)



1) solid dark blue wire, solid black wire, solid dark green wire, solid brown wire, 2 solid pink wires, white wire with black stripe

A) rear body harness to rear lights

B) yes some colors won't match... its on that way from factory. white with black trace becomes in violet for example... some other changes too.


2) solid pink wire, 2 solid yellow wires

A) to dome lamp

B) dome lamp harness , driver's side kickpanel


(pic32)



(pic32a)



1) violet wire with white stripe, solid light green wire, 2 solid red wires

A) foot dimmer switch

B) driver's side floor pan



Rear lamp harness (M&H Electric / YO): 


(pic33)



(pic34)



1) solid dark blue wire, solid black wire, solid dark green wire, solid brown wire, solid grey wire, solid violet wire

A) rear lamp harness

B) to body wiring harness on main harness


(pic35)



1) solid violet wire, solid dark green wire, solid brown wire, solid black wires 

A) rear taillights 

B) rear taillight harness in trunk drivers side


2) solid black wire 

A) taillight ground

B) ground to body


(pic35b)



1) solid grey wire, solid black wire

A) rear driver's side marker lamp

B) rear driver's side marker lamp housing


2) solid grey wire

A) rear driver's side marker lamp ground

B) ground to body


(pic35c)



1) solid dark blue wire

A) sending unit 

B) sending unit mounted in gas tank


(pic35d)




1) solid grey wire

A) trunk lamp (optional)

B) It plugs into the dark blue wire male end for the rear trunk light if you have the lighting package


Clutch Safety Switch Wire (M&H Electric / YO) 


(pic36)



(pic37)



1) solid dark green wire

A) clutch safety switch wire

B) to a single wire with a grommet through firewall when car is manual transmission


2) solid dark green wire

A) clutch safety wire

B) to starter relay "G" prong (when auto, this prong on relay gets the source from NSS tranny harness )


Tach Harness (Charger Specialties / YO)


(pic38)



(pic39)



1) solid black wire

A) tachometer harness 

B) negative post on ignition coil


2) solid black wire

A) tachometer harness

B) to yellow accessory yellow mold


3) solid black wire

A) tachometer harness

B) back of tachometer


4) solid black wire

A) tachometer harness

B) back of tachometer


Electronic Ignition Conversion Harness (Mopar / YO)


(pic40)



(pic41)



1) green with red stripe

A) un-used in 4 pin ecu, 

B) on 5 pin ecu, goes to "auxiliary" post ballast resistor


2) light blue with yellow stripe

A) ballast resistor "run" wire 

B) "run side of ballast resistor 


3) black with yellow stripe

A) ignition coil

b) to ignition coil negative


(pic42)



1) dark blue with white stripe, solid dark blue wire

A) distributor connector

B) on the distributor


(pic43)



1) blue with white stripe, solid blue wire, black with yellow stripe, green with red stripe, light blue with yellow stripe

A) control unit ecu harness

B) on the control unit on the firewall


Windshield Wiper Harness (M&H Electric / YO) 



(pic44)



(pic45)



(pic46)



(pic47)



1) solid red wire, solid brown wire, solid dark blue wire, solid dark green wire

A) wiper harness 

B) windshield wiper motor


2) solid brown wire

A) ballast resistor 

B) ballast resistor on wiper motor


3) solid brown wire

A) ballast resistor

B) ballast resistor on wiper motor


4) solid dark blue wire, solid red wire, solid dark green wire, solid brown wire

A) wiper harness

B) main fuse block


AC / Heater Harness (M&H Electric / YO) 



(pic48)



(pic49)



1) 2 solid tan wires, one solid light green wire, one solid dark green wire

A) blower switch 

B) on back of rallye dash


2) light green wire with black stripe, solid brown wire, tan wire, one dark blue wire

A) AC and heater control switch

B) on back of rallye dash


(pic50)



1) solid light green wire

A) clutch feed

B) yellow mold accessory feed



(pic51)



1) solid dark blue wire

A) clutch

B) just on 71 they used cavities left empty on neutral safety switch harness. 72/73 where shared between engine harness an NSS harness, using the green ( blower ) on NSS harness plug and Blue ( clucth ) on engine harness. 74s got a separate grommet for that on firewall due the lack of cavities left


2) 2 solid dark green wires

A) blower

B) same answer as 1B


(pic52)



1) solid tan wire

A) heater motor resistor 

B) on the motor in the passenger footwell


2) solid light green wire, solid dark green wire, solid brown wire

A) heater motor resistor 

B) on the motor in the passenger footwell



Engine Harness For A 383-440 W/O Six Pack (M&H Electric / YO)



(pic54)



(pic55)



1) solid grey wire, solid black wire, solid brown wire, grey wire with black stripe, dark green wire with red stripe, dark blue wire with white stripe, solid brown wire, solid violet wire

A) engine harness 

B) plugs into main bulkhead


(pic56)



1) 2 solid brown wires

A) ignition ballast/resistor

B) above windshield wiper motor


(pic57)



1) dark blue wire with white stripe

A) ignition ballast/resistor

B) above windshield wiper motor


(pic58)



1) solid grey wire

A) oil gauge wire

B) oil pressure switch on back of engine


(pic59)



1) solid dark green wire, dark blue with white stripe

A) alternator regulator

B) on the voltage regulator on firewall


(pic60)



1) solid dark blue wire

A) carburetor solenoid, can also be used for an electric choke

B) on carburetor


(pic61)



1) solid brown wire 

A) ignition coil

B) positive post on the ignition coil


2) grey wire with black stripe

A) not used on GTX/Roadrunner/Satellite

B) Can be used for the TACHOMETER WIRE... negative lead of coil...the tach harness can use this cavity on back oh bulkhead ( number 20 ) instead use the grommet on harness to go through firewall


(pic62)



1) solid dark blue wire, dark blue wire with white stripe

A) from the ignition resistor/ballast

B) back of alternator


2) solid dark green wire

A) alternator field

B) back of alternator


(pic63)



1) solid black wire

A) Ammeter gauge wire

B) back of alternator 


(pic64)



1) solid violet wire

A) temperature gauge sending unit

B) temperature switch on engine


(pic65)



1) 2 dark green wires with red stripe

A) horn

B) for those equipped with dual horns


(pic66)



1) solid brown wire

A) windshield washer motor

B) windshield washer fluid bottle in the front passenger engine bay


2) dark green wire with red stripe

A) horn

B) horn front passenger engine bay


Front Lamp Harness (M&H Electric / YO)



(pic67)



(pic68)



1) solid red wire, violet wire with white stripe, solid red wire, black wire with green stripe, solid black wire, black wire with brown stripe, black wire with yellow stripe, solid yellow wire

A) front lamp harness

B) bulkhead connector on firewall


(pic69)



1) solid black wire

A) low brake switch

B) located on your brake distribution block


2) solid red wire to solid blue wire

A) ammeter feed

B) to the "B" on the starter relay 


(pic70)



1) solid yellow wire

A) starter relay

B) to the "I" on starter relay


(pic71)



1) 2 solid black wires

A) harness ground

B) on radiator core support


(pic72)



1) 2 solid red wires, 2 solid black wires

A) left high beam lamp 

B) inside lamp front grill, driver's side


(pic73)



1) 2 solid red wires, 2 violet wires with white stripe, 2 solid black wires

A) left low beam lamp

B) outside lamp front grill, driver's side


(pic 74)



1) solid black wire, black wire with yellow stripe

A) left marker lamp

B) inside driver's front fender 


2) solid black wire, black wire with yellow stripe, black wire with green stripe

A) left parking light

B) front valance driver's side


(pic75)



1) 2 solid red wires, 2 solid black wires

A) right high beam lamp

B) inside lamp, front grill passenger side


(pic76)



1) solid black wire, solid red wire, violet wire with white stripe

A) right low beam lamp

B) outside lamp, front grill passenger side


(pic77)



1) solid black wire, black wire with yellow stripe, 

A) right marker lamp

B) inside front passenger fender


2) solid black wire, black wire with yellow stripe, black wire with a brown stripe

A) right parking light

B) front valance passenger side


Backup Light Harness (Brewers Performance)


(pic78)



1) solid black wires with black female 2 prong female plug end (3 prong for AutoTransmission) 

A) for the backup lights

B) switch on drivers side of transmission


2) solid black wire, black wires with white stripe

A) for the backup lights

B) plugs into main bulkhead 


3) black wire with white stripe with grey female connector

A) reverse light on dash

B) reverse light dash wire



WIRING DIAGRAMS FOR REFERENCE:


http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/197...%20RunnerA.JPG

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/197...oadRunnerB.JPG


1-19-2015


 Originally Posted by mmosley 

Wow, that is a bit too much. I recognized most of it, but would take me half the night to fill out your questionnaire. Do you have a factory wiring diagram, most of these should be obvious, they appear to be the correct factory wire colors.



-Michael


most of this is pretty time consuming - I'm doing this as a guide to avoid all these hours of BS trying to meter each one out, look it up in the manual to see where it goes, I figure that future mopar members will benefit from this - I just found out that M&H for some reason moved the horn wiring from the lamp harness to the engine harness, and they moved the low brake switch wiring from the engine harness to the lamp harness. So if one wanted to run a mix of old harnesses and new, you would have to change these wires in the actual harness themselves to get it to work. This is taking forever lol


**update had to switch the brown and red wire leads on the windshield wiper motor harness as they were backwards when plugged into the bulkhead****


4-9-2015


so its been awhile since my last post, been working mostly on the new wiring for the car, its kinda hard to see what lies hidden, but all the wiring in the interior of the car is now done, just currently working on the engine bay harnesses. Finished my wiring guide, I have also got around to finishing up some loose ends:


wired my amp under the package tray out of sight




radio now in the glovebox




battery in the back complete with all my relays hidden and battery disconnect in the trunk (for now)




floor mat all done 




cleaned up all of my seatbelts ready for install:









so I have two boys now, one in a baby seat, other in a child seat. We plan on maybe having one more down the road. You can buy child anchors for child seats, which I installed here in the package tray in front of the speakers and one in the middle:




The problem is this. No one, and I mean NO ONE sells a set of the lower metal latch systems used on baby seats that are in all of the modern cars today, I've tried aftermarket, dealerships ect. So realizing this I came to make up my own I made from used racing belt anchors, heck if it can hold back a 300lbs adult, a 20 lbs baby should be easy. I had to dremel the holes out about a 1/16" so the latches from the seat could hook onto them. The brackets are made from 1/4" flat bar and grade 8 hardware, (overkill I know) but they are holding my baby boys!





I had to cut two of them down to mount on the wheel well and angle the hooks with the top half of the rear seat in so they are about 1/4 -1/2" sunk in out of sight until you need them. 




once the seats were installed, you can't see them until you push them back for use! So now I can have 3 babies in the rear seat, or 3 children, or a combination of the two!









with that out of the way I can finish the interior!






4-10-2015


I had also got to finishing mounting my rear 69 Camaro spoiler, Here it is from start to finish:


First mask off the area your with green painters tape, saves the paint for underneath and allows you to mark on it. Position where you want the spoiler to sit, and with a measuring tape mark where the tips of your spoiler will sit, I measured from the trunk edge, then from the sides, the tips sit about an 1/4" from the edge:








When you figured out where she' gonna sit, you wanna mark out the stud locations for the spoiler and drill small holes and see if that's where they need to be before making them bigger (I bought two spoilers 69 and a 68, the 68 is 2" shorter so I sold it) they have the same stud location and both of them came with a template, but I noticed that the studs weren't mounted in the same place, even though they were both made by the same company, they could get up to almost a 1/2" out. ouch. After you have the size of the holes you want I drilled in the center from the outside going in so I know where to drill them underneath:






Underneath I would mask the area off around the hole and drill out to the size you want:






I went a little bigger than I thought, I was thinking maybe down the road if I had to buy another rear spoiler for whatever reason(carbon fiber perhaps?), I would have plenty of room for the studs if they end up being off like the ones I had. you can use a hole saw, I used a stepper bit for the weird corner ones and cleaned up with a dremel, and don't forget to file off your sharp edges!










Now that we have all the holes done were gonna have to mount this somehow. The 4 studs on the back of the trunk can be held down with your standard washers and locknuts, but the front studs being more accessible I have a better Idea, I bought these flat washers and these allthread connectors that fit inside the washers:







With the spoiler in place, thread the connector all the way till it bottoms out, the back it off a couple turns and weld the washer in place:







I put a spot weld just to hold it in place:






Then you can weld them up!






Now you have a custom nut that you can tighten all the way down and not worry about it bottoming out on the stud!






I painted them, but you could powder coat them:






Before your put your spoiler on be sure to use some sort of gasket material, I'll be using gasket maker, doesn't harm the paint underneath and not bad to clean up.







And it finishes off like this! I used 3/4" body plugs to hide the inner access holes for the rear studs, I did the outter access rear holes the same size as the trunk body plugs at 1 1/4" (Please excuse the flaking paint, something I have to have a talking to about with my painter in the very near future)





Hopefully you have something similar to this when your finished! (without the painters tape and the spoiler painted lol)







5/12/16




wow I'm in serious need of an update!!! Here's what I got in photos on here so far, I gotta upload more her in the next few days....

so I plastidipped the front marker lights so I don't ruin the originals (I love this stuff!)





Re-did the rear taillamp wiring harnesses:



tried lining up the fiberglass hood more so the fitment is better (I give it a 7 outta 10, but what can you do) and drilling my new hotchkis hood pins:







Been working on it so much this past year my boys have gotten in on it!



found a good spot for my exterior emblems





So making a functional fiberglass airgrabber hood is a PITA, I had to chop out where the arms mount, fill them with fiberglass (lots of time and layering) and cut out where the arms go again:





I wanted to convert this to a manual pull lever setup like the old air grabbers, so this is what I had gotten(bought at same place as the airgrabber setup ( I wouldn't recommend this, get oem)



I cut the rod and flipped and welded the plate on the drivers side:



found a rod normally used inside the doors, I'm now using this as my extension rod for my airgrabber setup:



bought this cable and its what I will be using for this airgrabber:



Put them together and this is what I came up with:




I mounted the the handle in the exact same spot as if you had a 71 runner with a hemi and a choke! works good too!!! wish the cable was longer but its the best I could have done for now



stay tuned! got more to come very soon as I'm ready to drive this bird!!!


6/23/16

She Runs!!!! Getting ahead of myself but feast your eyes on this!