xluben's FogTurbo Bugeye

By diyauto
( 1 )

xluben's FogTurbo Bugeye | NF | 800+ WHP | 2002 WRX | 6766 | IAG Closed Deck 2.5L |

Compliments of xluben @ nasioc.com


Car: 2002 Subaru WRX
Engine: EJ20 2012 STI EJ257
Turbo: TD04 VF39 STX 71 Kinugawa TD06H 60-1 Precision 6266 Precision 6766 (KillerB/Fobia Low Mount)
Transmission: 5MT 2012 STI 6MT
Body Style: Sedan
Color: Platinum Silver Metallic

Event: MAPerformance Proving Grounds
Location: Brainerd International Raceway (MN)
Ambient Temp: ~60°F
Elevation: ~1,200ft (DA: 1,335ft)
Weather: Sunny and Clear
Tires: 26" Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials on 15x7" +35 Rota Slipstream Wheels

Car: 2002 WRX Sedan
Tuner: Nuke @ NF Performance
Transmission: 2012 STI 6 Speed
1/4 Mile ET: 9.51s
1/4 Mile Trap: 150.5mph
60': 1.56s
Target Boost: 43psi
Target AFR: 11's
Fuel: E85

9.5s @ 150mph @ 43psi on E85

Other Photos:


  • IAG Closed Deck 2.5L Case
  • IAG 1/2" Head Studs
  • OEM Subaru Crank
  • JE Pro Seal Head Gaskets
  • JE 99.75mm Pistons
  • Manley Turbo Tuff I Beam Rods
  • King Rod and Main Bearings
  • OEM 2012 STI Heads (Running Non-AVCS)
  • Kelford 199-L (282) Camshafts
  • GSC Beehive Springs w/Retainers
  • GSC Valve Seals
  • Aluminati Solid Billet Motor Mounts


  • Precision 6766 Turbo
  • KillerB EL Header
  • Fobia Fab Modified for FogLight Mount
  • Fobia Fab Fender Exhaust Dump
  • Fobia Fab Oil Sump
  • TurboWerx Exa Pump Mini Oil Scavenge Pump
  • Custom AN Oil Return Lines/Fittings
  • Treadstone FMIC
  • TurboSmart 40mm HP EWG
  • TurboSmart Race Port BOV
  • TurboSmart FPR 1200
  • GrimmSpeed MBC
  • Walbro 465 Fuel Pump
  • DW300 Fuel Pump
  • ID2000cc Injectors
  • IAG Fuel Rails and Lines
  • Treadstone 4" Velocity Stack


  • OEM 2012 STI 6MT
  • DSS CF Driveshaft
  • DSS 800HP Rear Axles
  • OEM STI R180 Rear Diff
  • OEM 2004 STI Front Axles
  • Anarchy Motive Shift Knob
  • Kartboy Short Shifter
  • Kartboy Front Shifter Bushings
  • Karboy Rear Shifter Bushings
  • Aluminati Solid Billet Tranny Mount
  • Aluminati Solid Billet Pitch Stop Mount
  • ACT HD Pressure Plate
  • ACT 4 Puck Unsprung Disk


  • OEM 2002 WRX Wheels (Winter)
  • 205/60R16 Blizzak WS70 Tires (Winter)
  • 15x7" +35 Rota Slipstream Wheels (Summer)
  • 235/60R15 Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial Tires (Summer)
  • 15x7" +35 Rota Slipstream Wheels (Track)
  • 26x8.5" Hoosier Slicks (Track)
  • 02 WRX Struts
  • Eibach Pro Kit Springs


  • MapDCCD Differential Controller
  • MapDCCD Wheel Speed Signal Processor
  • ProSport EVO Boost Gauge
  • ProSport EVO Oil Pressure Gauge
  • AEM Wideband O2 Gauge
  • Odyssey Slim Battery


  • RS Flat Hood
  • OEM Fog Light Covers
  • Removed Rear Wing

2013 Updates:

07/14/13 - 2002 Silver Bugeye WRX (Mileage: 185k)
07/20/13 - Interior Photos
07/20/13 - Engine Bay Photos
07/21/13 - Struts, Uppipe, Crosspipe, Downpipe Photos
07/21/13 - Header, Uppipe, Turbo, Downpipe Photo
07/23/13 - Stock Baseline Virtual Dyno and Video
07/26/13 - DIY Wood Ramps
07/27/13 - TMIC, Splitter, Scoop, Exhaust Photo
07/29/13 - STI Fuel Pump Hanger and Walbro 255
07/30/13 - Round 1 of Mods (Bolt On's) - Part 1
07/30/13 - Round 1 of Mods (Bolt On's) - Part 2
08/02/13 - 2.0L, 5MT, VF39, Pump Gas Virtual Dyno
08/03/13 - 2012 Forester Wheels
08/03/13 - 2.0L, 5MT, VF39, Pump Gas Video
08/14/13 - 2012 STI Motor and Tranny Pull
09/13/13 - New Garage - Full
09/13/13 - New Garage - Empty
09/16/13 - 2.0L, 5MT, VF39, E85 Virtual Dyno and Video
09/20/13 - 2.0L Motor Pull
09/24/13 - New Garage CFL Lighting
09/25/13 - Organized Garage
09/27/13 - 5MT to 6MT Swap
10/03/13 - Photo Studio and Beats by Dre
10/11/13 - MapDCCD and Progress Photos
10/14/13 - DCCDPro vs. MapDCCD Comparison
10/23/13 - Craftsman 3/8" and 1/2" Impact ptI
10/23/13 - Craftsman 3/8" and 1/2" Impact ptII
10/30/13 - Progress Photos
11/10/13 - Steam STX 71 (TD06SL2+GTX3071R) Turbo - Rotating
11/01/13 - Steam STX 71 (TD06SL2+GTX3071R) Turbo - Photos
11/01/13 - Turbo Swap, Steam STX 71 (TD06SL2+GTX3071R) Turbo Installed
11/01/13 - Gojo Hand Cleaner
11/07/13 - AMR Inlet, MAW Plastic TGV's, ID2k, Injectors
11/09/13 - 2.5L Motor Install Part 1
11/23/13 - 2.5L Motor Install Part 2
11/23/13 - 2.5L Motor Install Part 3
11/30/13 - Harbor Freight Tool Chest and Tool Cart
12/01/13 - Steam STX 71 (TD06SL2+GTX3071R) 25psi E85 Tune - 427WHP / 413WTQ
12/05/13 - GrimmSpeed GD Hood Struts
12/06/13 - Interior (Indoor) Photos
12/09/13 - Interior and Exterior (Outdoor, Winter) Photos
12/19/13 - 2.5L, 6MT, STX71, E85 Video

2014 Updates:

01/09/14 - TurboXS BOV Studio Photos
01/10/14 - TurboXS FMIC Kit Studio Photos
01/18/14 - Front End Removal
01/29/14 - FP Turbo Oil Feed Line
02/04/14 - TurboSmart CompGate 40 EWG
02/06/14 - COBB Catback Exhaust
02/08/14 - OEM Foglight Covers
02/10/14 - DEPO Headlights
02/13/14 - RacingLine Shirts and Shoes
04/18/14 - Installed Uppipe
06/06/14 - Installed EWG and Turbo
06/09/14 - Installed FMIC
06/09/14 - FMIC Install Details
06/10/14 - FMIC Fitment Issues
06/11/14 - Installed Hood and Downpipe
06/13/14 - Installed COBB Exhaust and Removed Charcoal Canister
06/16/14 - Installed Wheels/Tires, Fixed Oil Leak, Started Car
06/16/14 - Turbo Oil Feed Leak Details
06/16/14 - First Outdoor Photos with FMIC and 2011 WRX Wheels
06/16/14 - Federal 595 RS-R 235/45R17 Tire Bulge
06/18/14 - Park Photos with FMIC and 2011 WRX Wheels
06/18/14 - STX 71 - FMIC - EWG - 26psi E85 Tune - 452WHP / 389WTQ
06/21/14 - MAPerformance Proving Grounds 2014.1 - 11.58 @ 119mph
06/21/14 - MAPerformance Proving Grounds 2014.1 - Timeslips Photo
06/23/14 - MAPerformance Proving Grounds 2014.1 - 11.42 @ 122mph - 8k Launch Video
06/23/14 - MAPerformance Proving Grounds 2014.1 - Dragstrip Video - Broken Axle Video
06/24/14 - MAPerformance Proving Grounds 2014.1 - Photos
06/25/14 - MNSubaru Boom Island Meet
06/27/14 - PW JDM Bumper Quick Release Install
06/27/14 - Dead End Photos
06/30/14 - Interior and Exterior Photos
06/30/14 - Prodrive Front Lip Install
07/01/14 - Prodrive Front Lip Outdoor Cameraphone Photos
07/02/14 - Prodrive Front Lip DSLR Photos
07/02/14 - Bent Front Strut
07/02/14 - Eibach Spring Side Photo
07/02/14 - 02 WRX and 15 STI Photo
07/04/14 - 1 Year Before and After
07/05/14 - MN Cars and Coffee Photos
07/07/14 - Outdoor Farm Photos - Eibach Springs
07/07/14 - COBB Exhaust Video
07/09/14 - Dead End Photo w/Flare
07/15/14 - Cabin Air Filter Install
07/17/14 - Spark Plug Install
07/17/14 - DIY $10 Oil Pressure Relocation Install
07/18/14 - MapDCCD Wheel Speed Sensor (VSS) Install and Review
07/24/14 - BPV Hose and Speaker Delete and License Plate Relocation
07/24/14 - Park/Woods Photos
07/28/14 - STX 71 Turbo Sold
07/30/14 - Uppipe to Turbo Leak
08/04/14 - New Turbo Installed - Camera Phone
08/04/14 - Kinugawa TD06H 60-1 Turbo Info and Installed Photos
08/07/14 - Kinugawa TD06H 60-1 Turbo Virtual Dyno Results - 484WHP / 426WTQ
08/07/14 - Kinugawa TD06H 60-1 Turbo 50-100mph Video
08/08/14 - Kinugawa TD06H 60-1 Turbo 45-120mph Video
08/10/14 - Reverse Flow FMIC Mods
08/14/14 - WRX vs RS Hood Weight
08/15/14 - 04 STI BBS Wheels
08/16/14 - FMIC 45 deg Coupler and EL Header
08/18/14 - 04 STI BBS Wheels and WRX Hood Outdoor Photos
08/23/14 - ID2000 Injector Seals
08/27/14 - ELM Bluetooth Adapter and Torque App
08/28/14 - ProSport Boost Inline Filter Broken
08/28/14 - AP EL Header Speedo Video
09/04/14 - 112lb Weight Reduction Details
09/04/14 - Rear Bumper Beam Removal
09/05/14 - MAPerformance Proving Grounds 2014.2 - 10.99 @ 126mph
09/09/14 - MAPerformance Proving Grounds 2014.2 - 1/4 Mile Video
09/09/14 - MAPerformance Proving Grounds 2014.2 - GTR Roll Race Video
09/10/14 - MAPerformance Proving Grounds 2014.2 - Other Roll Race Video
09/18/14 - KillerB Header Install
09/22/14 - KillerB Header Speedo Video
09/23/14 - Weekend Update (Stumble Fix)
09/26/14 - AccessPort V3 and 04 STI Tail Lights
09/29/14 - RS Motors Mustang Dyno - 457WHP / 422WTQ
09/29/14 - 60-1 vs. HTA68 vs. Stock Dyno Comparison
09/30/14 - Parking Ramp Photos
10/01/14 - AEM 3.5 Bar MAP Sensor Install
10/01/14 - RS Motors Mustang Dyno Video
10/04/14 - Stock 02 WRX Wheels and Blizzak WS70 Tires
10/06/14 - Outdoor Photo with 02 WRX Wheels
10/07/14 - DSLR Photo with 02 WRX Wheels
10/10/14 - PTE 6266 and Toy Bugeye
10/10/14 - Toy Bugeye Photos
10/13/14 - Rock Falls Drag - 10.98 @ 128mph on Snow Tires
10/16/14 - Rock Falls Drag - 60' vs. ET vs. Trap Video
10/23/14 - Rock Falls Drag - Data Log Plots
10/23/14 - Parking Ramp - No Bumper or Hood
10/31/14 - KillerB and PTE 6266 Photos
11/04/14 - Stock Location Parts FS
11/07/14 - PTE Turbo Blanket
11/10/14 - Fobia Low Mount Header
11/10/14 - Fobia Low Mount Header pt II
11/12/14 - Fobia Low Mount w/PTE 6266 Test Fit
11/14/14 - Fobia Low Mount w/PTE 6266 Test Fit pt II
11/14/14 - BOV, Oil Pump, Oil Lines and Fittings
11/28/14 - Treadstone FMIC

2015 Updates:

12/01/14 - Treadstone FMIC Test Fit
12/12/14 - Speaker Brackets
12/22/14 - Treadstone FMIC Test Fit pt II
12/26/14 - Tire Rack, Snap On Swivel Sockets, Charger
12/27/14 - Pittsburgh Professional Flex Head Ratchet
12/27/14 - Ratchet Comparison Photos
01/21/15 - Fobia Low Mount Treadstone FMIC Modification
01/23/15 - Bumper Cut and Installed
02/03/15 - Fuel Lines and Fittings and Preliminary Oil Fitting List
02/03/15 - Oil Lines and Fittings and Oil Pump Mounting
02/08/15 - IAG Fuel Rails
02/08/15 - Garage Clean Up and Wastegate Mounting
02/09/15 - Velocity Stack and Oil Sump Mounting
02/12/15 - -12AN Oil Drain and Bumper Exhaust Dump Cutout
02/14/15 - 3/8" NPT to -12AN Fitting, Line Routing, and Exhaust Dump Trim
02/16/15 - Trimmed Exhaust Dump with Bumper Installed
02/17/15 - 1320Video Facebook Post
02/23/15 - TurboSmart FPR Cap Switch
02/23/15 - IAG Rails Installed on MAW TGV Deletes
02/24/15 - Installed Fuel Lines, Rails, Intake Manifold, Turbo Oil Feed, and Crankcase Vent
02/25/15 - Crankcase Vent Photo
02/27/15 - Mishimoto Radiator Photos
03/03/15 - Oil and Fuel Pump Wiring: Part 1
03/06/15 - Odyssey Slim Battery and Die Hard Charger Photos
03/06/15 - TurboWerx Exa Pump Mini Photos
03/08/15 - FogTurbo Bugeye Rolling Shots and Engine Bay
03/10/15 - Initial Tune and Radiator Hose Replacement
03/10/15 - Camera Phone Photos
03/11/15 - Parking Ramp Photos
03/11/15 - Parking Ramp Exhaust Video
03/12/15 - Proven Power Bragging Thread - Virtual Dyno Results
03/12/15 - Speedo Video and 50-100mph Comparison
03/12/15 - Speedo Video 50-100mph 7k Shift Comparison
03/13/15 - Anarchy Motive Shift Knob Photo
03/25/15 - Air Filter Comparison Photo
03/26/15 - Air Filters Installed Comparison Photo
03/26/15 - Parking Ramp Rig Shot
03/28/15 - Intake Filter Testing Results
03/28/15 - Enkei RPF1 Test Fit Photos
03/31/15 - Outdoor Photo with Stock Wheels
04/01/15 - RPF1 Spacer Install and Outdoor Photos
04/06/15 - RPF1 eBay Center Caps
04/06/15 - Cam Timing Changes and Comparisons
04/06/15 - Hoosier Slicks Test Fit Photos
04/08/15 - T-Brace Repair, R180, and DSS Axles
04/09/15 - T-Brace Repair, Header Photo
04/14/15 - Speedo Video and 50-100mph
04/18/15 - Rock Falls Drag Camera Phone Photos
04/20/15 - Rock Falls Drag - 10.36 @ 139mph on Street Tires
04/25/15 - Replaced Front Brake Rotors, Calipers, and Pads
04/25/15 - Slowing Down at the Dragstrip Video
04/30/15 - Dyno Tune - 666WHP on Dynojet
04/31/15 - Dyno Tune Full Details and Video
05/04/15 - Rig Shots with Eric V
05/09/15 - Seibon CF "RS Style" Hood
05/11/15 - Spark Plug and Grounding Upgrades
05/14/15 - GrimmSpeed Hella Horn Bracket Install
05/15/15 - Outfront Motorsport Alternator Relocation Bracket Install
05/15/15 - Gray Plasti Dip on RPF1
05/15/15 - Painted CF Hood and Photos of Wingless Trunk
05/18/15 - 04 WRX Cluster Swap
05/19/15 - 666WHP Updated 50-100mph Video
05/23/15 - Sold RPF1 - Stock Wheels Photo
05/29/15 - 26x9.5R15 Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials
05/31/15 - 26x8.5R15 Hoosier Slicks and 15x7 +35 Rota Slipstreams
06/02/15 - Brenizer Shot - Stock Wheels
06/03/15 - Sunset Shot - Stock Wheels
06/03/15 - Rota Slipstream 15x7" +35 Wheels
06/04/15 - 26x9.5R15 Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials and Rota Slipstream 15x7" +35 Wheels
06/05/15 - Slipstream and MT Installed - Cell Phone
06/05/15 - Slipstream and MT Installed - Daylight / DSLR
06/06/15 - Rock Falls Drag - 9.94 @ 139mph on Hoosier Slicks
06/10/15 - NF DCTC Photos - Part 1
06/10/15 - NF DCTC Photos - Part 2
06/15/15 - IAT Sensor, Fuel Filter, Aluminati Motor, Trans, Pitch Stop Solid Mounts
06/16/15 - ACT 4 Puck Clutch Disk Replacement
06/18/15 - Replaced Brake Light Bulb
06/20/15 - MAPerformance Proving Grounds 2014.1 - 10.2 @ 137mph
06/22/15 - MAPerformance Proving Grounds 2014.1 - Roll Racing
06/24/15 - MAPerformance Proving Grounds 2014.1 - 10.1 @ 140mph
06/26/15 - Melted Bumper / Dump Alignment
07/07/15 - PTE 6766 and DW300
07/17/15 - 6766 at DCTC - Initial Tune at 40psi and TurboSmart HP EWG
07/22/15 - 6766 at 35psi Speedo Video
07/27/15 - FlexConverter.com E85 Sensor
07/27/15 - Xluben's FogTurbo Bugeye Facebook Page
08/04/15 - New Motor Internals, Kelford 282 Cams, and Garage Photo
08/06/15 - Engine Internals and IAG Case Halves Core Shipment
08/07/15 - Motor Pull Video
08/12/15 - Yellow Bugeye Motor Pull Video
08/14/15 - IAG Closed Deck Machining Photos
08/19/15 - Gas Can Updates
08/20/15 - IAG Closed Deck Block Studio Photos
08/21/15 - GSC S1 Cams For Sale
09/10/15 - Motor Installation and DSS CF Driveshaft Photos
09/10/15 - Dyno Photos - MAPerformance Dyno - Tuned by Nuke at NF Performance
09/11/15 - 834WHP Dyno Plot, Packed up for Proving Grounds, and 9.5 @ 150mph
09/14/15 - MAPerformance Proving Grounds 2014.2 - 9.5 @ 150mph
09/15/15 - Motor Install Video
09/18/15 - Refurbished PTE 6766 Photos and Speedo Video
09/21/15 - Bumper Off, Dead End Photos
09/23/15 - Virtual Dyno Plot - 4th Gear
10/04/15 - Rock Falls Drag - 10.04 @ 148mph
11/16/15 - Removed MT Radials, Installed Stock WRX Wheels and Snow Tires, RS 6 Spoke Wheel Photos
11/20/15 - Stock WRX Wheels - Outdoor Photos
11/24/15 - Stock WRX Wheels - Parking Ramp Strobed
11/28/15 - MNSubiez Parking Ramp Rig Shots
11/28/15 - Heavy Duty Garage Shelf
12/02/15 - S&W 10 Point Roll Cage
12/05/15 - Kirkey Pro Drag Aluminum Seats
12/08/15 - Kirkey Seat Covers
12/10/15 - NRG Quick Release Steering Wheel Hub
12/10/15 - Mike Parking Ramp Rig Shots
12/16/15 - Kirkey Seat Mounting Brackets
12/18/15 - Kirkey Seats Mounted in Car
12/22/15 - 9.5 @ 150mph Video with Speedo Overlay

2016 Updates:

01/04/16 - G-FORCE 5 Point Harness
02/01/16 - Indoor Photo of Installed Cage
02/07/16 - Updated Kirkey Seat Mounting
02/07/16 - 10 Point Roll Cage Outdoor Photos
02/07/16 - 2015 Quickest and Fastest Subarus Video
02/19/16 - RJS Window Net and Mounting Kit & Advanced Chassis LLC Seat Back Bracket
03/02/16 - Silver Enkei RPF1 17x9" +45 with hubcentric rings and Honda centercaps
03/16/16 - 17x9" RPF1 with 245/45R17 M&H Drag Radials
03/17/16 - Work Parking Lot Photo and Idle Video
03/19/16 - RPF1 Installed Photos

Picked up this car as the new project. I spent the last month or so looking for a car that I could build up. Now that I have a 2012 Forest for a daily driver this will be a weekend/project car only. I wanted to start with a cheaper base and had my eye on a Bugeye WRX as my top choice. I wouldn't have minded something newer, but the cost was generally quite a bit more. The slightly lower weight on the Bugeye sedan was also appealing. I was even looking for something with a blown motor or tranny to save money. My search was nationwide. I e-mailed/PM'd/texted many people and looked/drove a few cars.

Eventually I was pointed to this one by a friend. It was semi-local and running. It had a new timing belt, water pump, clutch and heads put in this spring. The interior is clean (even has a single DIN stereo). There are a few mechanical things I need to look into and the exterior has some dents (quite a few in the hood) and a little rust starting on the quarter panels, but overall it was in pretty good shape for a car of this age. And the fact that it was local and running saved me a decent chunk of money by not having to ship it.

The car has virtually no mods. Just the giant eBay hood scoop and the muffler cut off. Surprisingly it's not that loud (for having no muffler at all). No firm plans for the car yet. Still trying to figure that out. I would eventually like to make it fast

Here are some photos:



Engine Bay:


Some Parts:

Stock 04 STI Springs and Struts:

GrimmSpeed Uppipe and CrossPipe:

GrimmSpeed Downpipe:

GrimmSpeed Gasket Set:

04 STI Front Axles (For Later):

Also picked up an 04 STI driveshaft for later.

Only shot while working was right after I pulled the TMIC:

I got some work done but it was slow because a lot for the bolts are rusted on very, very hard. So far I have removed the headers, crosspipe, uppipe, downpipe, exhaust and wheels. Several rusted on exhaust bolts gave me issues and a few broke. 6 of 8 strut bolts are a rusted on hard enough that the impact couldn't get them off. Hoping to get all this bolt on stuff done (and maybe a few other things) in the next week or two. No 6 speed yet, but hopefully later.


Here's the new setup:


Here's a baseline video and Virtual Dyno plot for my Bugeye.

2002 Subaru WRX
Silver Bugeye Sedan
Totally Stock
185,000 Miles

50-100mph is 14 seconds
185WHP on Virtual Dyno (Dynojet)


My brother and I built some wooden ramps the other night. Menards did the cuts. We just drilled some pilot holes and nailed them together. Each step is 1 foot. Works great!


More parts going on:


STI fuel pump hanger and Walbro 255 pump:

Round 1 of Mods (Bolt On's) - Part 1:

Last week I started getting my first round of parts in. I believe I started work on the 19th or 20th. The plan was to swap the springs/struts (they were making noises) with some STI take off's that I bought, remove the front subframe (very rusted, want to save weight), and the install uppipe/downpipe for a basic "Stage 2" setup. I hadn't found a turbo, fuel pump or fuel injectorsfor cheap so I figured a TD04 pump gas setup would be fine for now. My brother was installed a DCCD controller into his 6 speed swapped Bugeye so we both worked at the same time, and he helped me out when needed. His finished up after a few nights, but he still stopped over most other nights to give me a hand finishing up my stuff.

I started by removing the stock TMIC and Y-Pipe. Then I removed the stock downpipe. It came off quite easily except for one stud that unthreaded from the turbo (instead of the nut coming off). I didn't see any major damage to the threads so I think it might still be OK once I put a new stud in. This car never had any performance mods, but it did have the timing belt and heads replaced last spring so the motor has been out recently (which should help with bolts being broken loose). I also removed the stock exhaust. The muffler was already cut off, and when I took the cat back off it broke in half because it was so rusted. The downpipe to catback bolts were frozen together and so rusted that a wrench wouldn't even grab them. I ended up having to just cut them in order to separate those two parts.

I got the car up in the air and the thing I was going to do was the front subframe. Unfortunately it was so rusted that I could only get about half the bolts loose. I broke one and rounded one. Several just wouldn't budge. I decided to move onto the struts. I only got 2 of 8 strut bolts loose. The impact gun wouldn't even move them. That's about all the further I got the first day. I then bought a bigger breaker bar and some short, 6-side, impact strength 1/2" drive sockets to go with it. Using the bar and sometimes even a longer bar for more leverage I managed to get all of the strut bolts broken loose. I also got all the brake line mounting bolts and clips loose as well. I replaced one of the struts at this time, but then went back to working on other things.

At this point I removed the stock headers and uppipe. This all went fairly smoothly. Sometime around this time I was able to pick up a VF39 locally so I pulled the TD04 off and put the VF39 on. No real issues with this. The inlet actually went of surprisingly well. That one one of the hardest parts of the stock location turbo swap I did on my 2011 WRX. Now that the turbo was in place I put the GrimmSpeed uppipe on and loosely bolted it up. Then I put the exhaust manifold assembly on. I loosely installed all bolts. Then as I was tightening one of the nuts onto the stud on the driver's side head the stud spun and stripped out the head!

It appears the stud was only threaded in a few threads and I didn't notice. It looked like there was probably enough threads deeper in so I put the stud back in and tightened the nut down. Then I went to the passenger's side and one of the studs did the same thing! This one pulled out nearly all the threads so there was no way to use it in that condition. So I pulled off the headers and uppipe. Then I bought an M10-1.25 Helicoil kit the next day. To give myself more space I finished removing the front subframe. I got a few more of the bolts out but I ended up breaking the welded nuts off inside the frame. I had to cut one and then I just bent the subframe until it broke off the remaining ones. I drilled out both of the holes in the head with the proper 13/32" drill bit and then tapped the holes as deep as I could. Due to the taper on the end of the tap they bottom out before there are threads all the way into the hole. Because of this I had to cut a couple coils off the threaded insert for it to be able to sit slightly below the surface.

Doing this repair under the car was difficult and not ideal. My studs did not end up perfectly straight but they were good enough that the stock headers slipped on without any issue! I put the uppipe back on again, and then the headers. All nuts torqued to spec and didn't spin! I actually used a torque wrench this time, and came to the realization that I probably waaay over torque a lot of bolts. Probably 2x what they need to be... Then I finally put the GrimmSpeed downpipe on. I also put on the midpipe section of the Perrin exhaust. It is missing the v-band clamp so the muffler portion couldn't be installed. The clamp is on order. This basically how far the car was as of Friday night (approx 1 week after I started). It was probably a good 2-4 hours most nights last week. The little hiccups really added to the time. Thanks to my brother for the help swapping parts. Here are some photos and then onto Part 2!

Round 1 of Mods (Bolt On's) - Part 2:

Throughout that week of work I managed to accumulate some more parts so these had to go on as well. I also had found my stock 2011 WRX injectors so I stopped over at NF and Nuke modded them for me. It only took him a few minutes. Brian from NF took them to get cleaned and flow tested. On Saturday Brian from NF came over with the injectors and to lend a hand with the rest of the install, and my brother stopped over again too. The first thing that had to get done was finishing the suspension swap. Brian worked on this. First he had to pull the backseat. When he did this he found a mouse nest on top of the strut mounts! And when he was pulling it out he found a mouse! Gross. Glad that's gone.

While Brian was doing that my brother was assembling the Y-pipe and TMIC parts. I was working on getting the green bracketsoff to install the injectors. Since all the bolts were broken loose on the struts it didn't take Brian long to get them all swapped over. Then he finished up the injector install. All of the injectors flowed right around 1000cc. There was a little variation but not enough that it should matter. These should be plenty for the VF39 on E85, and even something like a 20G if I decide to go that route. After re-seating the injectors a couple times they were all installed and sealing properly. I installed the GrimmSpeed MBC while the TMIC was still off. It is a simple install and I mounted it to an existing bracket (I had to drill out the hole slightly).

Then we moved onto the TMIC. With the GrimmSpeed pipe kit you do have to cut quite a bit off of the 90 deg silicone coupler, but once we did that it was a good fit. The BPV return hose was very difficult to get on because of the tight space to work with when installing a larger TMIC. We also installed the GrimmSpeed splitter and the OEM Forester XT scoop from zbailey129 (Thanks!!!!). The scoop doesn't quite match my paint, but it's close enough for me. The OEM scoop required nuts (instead of the bolts the eBay one used), so I had to go get those the next day. I also removed the wing (holes are just covered with tape right now).

Sunday I got the bolts I needed to finish putting on the scoop. I bolted that up. Then I also went at removing the fuel pump. Unfortunately I had already put the back seat in, so I had to pull that back out because there just wasn't enough room without doing that. The housing was really rusty and dirty and a snapped one stud while removing the nuts, but the rest were fine. On Monday the new fuel pump hanger with Walbro 255 arrived. It is a newer model hanger that includes the small "surge basket" around the pump inlet. This should help slightly on long turns or hard acceleration with low fuel. The hanger itself was in much better shape then my stock one. I dropped it in and bolted it down. Everything seemed fine. I couldn't start the car due to the new injectors.

Later on last night I picked up Nuke so he could flash the car. He did that but then it wouldn't start! The battery was very low. The interior lights worked, but it just wouldn't even try starting. We jump started it with the Forester, but then once I went to drive off it died again and wouldn't start. So I swapped in the battery from the Forester. Then the Bugeye fired right up. We drove to the shop and then had to burp the coolant (from swapping the turbo) and fix a couple small boost leaks. Nuke did a quick pump gas tune and we got up to around 18psi. It is a lot more lively than it was before! The VF39 spools a bit later than on the 2.5L but the top end feels good and holds on to 7k pretty well. I will enjoy it at this power for a few days and then switch over to E85 once my tank is empty.

Thanks to Brian from NF and my brother for help with the install! Thanks to Nuke for the tune!

Current Mod List:


  • Stock 2.0L with 185k Miles


  • GrimmSpeed CrossPipe
  • GrimmSpeed Uppipe
  • GrimmSpeed Downpipe
  • Perrin CatBack Exhaust
  • IHI VF39 (STI) Turbo
  • GrimmSpeed Gaskets
  • GrimmSpeed TMIC w/Gold Tape
  • GrimmSpeed TMIC Splitter
  • GrimmSpeed Y-Pipe Kit
  • GrimmSpeed MBC
  • 04 STI Fuel Pump Hanger
  • Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
  • Modded 2011 WRX Injectors (1000cc)


  • Stock


  • 04 STI Struts
  • 04 STI Springs


  • Alpine Single DIN HU


  • Removed Rear Wing


Here is an updated Virtual Dyno plot:

This a very conservative, 18psi, pump gas tune. It was just enough to get me driving so I could burn up the rest of the pump gasin the tank and switch to E85. 50-100mph time and Virtual Dyno power numbers both show a nice improvement over the stock TD04 setup. The car is much more fun to drive now!

50-100mph is 9.7 seconds

262WHP on Virtual Dyno (Dynojet)


  • Stock 2.0L with 185k Miles


  • GrimmSpeed CrossPipe
  • GrimmSpeed Uppipe
  • GrimmSpeed Downpipe
  • Perrin CatBack Exhaust
  • IHI VF39 (STI) Turbo
  • GrimmSpeed Gaskets
  • GrimmSpeed TMIC w/Gold Tape
  • GrimmSpeed TMIC Splitter
  • GrimmSpeed Y-Pipe Kit
  • GrimmSpeed MBC
  • 05 STI Fuel Pump Hanger
  • Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
  • Modded 2011 WRX Injectors (1000cc)


External Changes:

  • 2012 Forester 17" Wheels
  • OEM Hood Scoop
  • Removed Rear Wing
  • 04 STI Springs and Struts


Here is a quick video of the VF39 @ 18psi on Pump Gas:


The VF on the 2.0L spools much later than the 2.5L and should be easier on things to some extent because of that. It's likely not doing anywhere near 400WTQ either. The shortblock and tranny are both stock with 185k miles. The clutch was supposedly replaced this spring with an OEM (or OEM style) clutch.

I took it out for a couple sessions on the road course last night at NF Performance's track event. It was a lot of fun and the car is still in one piece. The 5 speed + 2.0L + VF powerband wasn't the best for some of the tight sections, but it was still a good time. And the motor/tranny/clutch did make it back home without blowing up!


Helped a friend work on this one last weekend:


New garage. Already full of junk. Needs insulation, drywall, and a lot of storage space (shelves) to open up some more working room.

Fortunately it can still fit 3 cars

It's really nice to be able to park 3 cars in the garage, but the free space around the cars is actually way down from the old garage. The old garage was only a 2 car, but it was 6 feet deeper than the new one! Overall area only went 520ft^2 to 618ft^2 (so definitely not a 50% increase like you would think when going from 2 cars to 3 cars).

And the old garage had full height shelving along the entire back wall. The storage was great, and the extra deep garage made for a lot more room to work. The third stall in the new garage barely has enough room to walk around the car, especially with the workbench there. I definitely need to add some shelves eventually.

Another really nice thing is the higher ceilings. The old garage was low (8ft?) and had an even lower spot right above the car. You couldn't jack the car up very high with the hood open or it would hit the ceiling. I think this garage is 9ft? I'm not positive, but it's a lot higher than the old one. High enough that it's tempting to put in a lift

Here's a shot of the garage without all the junk. It looks way bigger than it really is.


Here is a video of the VF39 @ 20psi on E85:

Sorry for the terrible quality. Windows Movie Maker is causing the videos to become extremely dark recently. I'm not sure what happened, but it looks pretty terrible. Same camera and same computer is being used.

Here is an updated Virtual Dyno plot:

This a pretty basic 20psi E85 tune with the VF39 and stock 2.0L. 50-100mph time and Virtual Dyno power numbers both show a small gain over the VF39 on pump gas. Not too drastic, but enough to be noticeable. Didn't quite hit 300WHP, but it still pulls well and is strong all the way to redline.

50-100mph is 8.6 seconds

287WHP on Virtual Dyno (Dynojet)


  • Stock 2.0L with 185k Miles


  • GrimmSpeed CrossPipe
  • GrimmSpeed Uppipe
  • GrimmSpeed Downpipe
  • Perrin CatBack Exhaust
  • IHI VF39 (STI) Turbo
  • GrimmSpeed Gaskets
  • GrimmSpeed TMIC w/Gold Tape
  • GrimmSpeed TMIC Splitter
  • GrimmSpeed Y-Pipe Kit
  • GrimmSpeed MBC
  • 05 STI Fuel Pump Hanger
  • Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
  • Modded 2011 WRX Injectors (1000cc)


I had a little help from my brother and a friend and pulled the motor out on Friday. All went pretty smoothly/easily. It was pretty late so we called it quits after the motor was out. Still need to pull the tranny. Waiting on a few small parts to be able to put the new stuff in anyways. Sorry for the terrible cell phone pictures.


The lights they replaced were actually 15W CFL's. Not sure the color temp, but much more yellow thank these 4100K lights.

The light output is very strong, and they turn on instantly (faster than the little ones I had).

Here are some comparison photos of the old lighting vs. the new. These are all just auto camera-phone (GS4) settings, no editing.

Hard to get an accurate feel of the lighting just from pictures, but it's certainly a noticeable change in the right direction. Should be enough to hold me over until I can get some more fixtures in.


Unfortunately no more work on the car yet, but I did organize the garage a little more. I tossed a bunch more junk, and consolidated everything that was in cardboard boxes into the Home Depot totes. Then I stacked the totes extra high and ended up with a lot more space. I also cleaned up my workbench a little.

I cannot wait to do lighting/electrical, insulation/walls, and shelves. Shelves will help free up a TON of space, but the other stuff needs to get done first for sure.


Thanks! I do like incremental changes. It makes it more enjoyable during the process. And trying to document things as I go is always a goal.

Another long night of working on the car last night. Thanks to ofspunk7 and DanFran for the help! Here are some photos. I actually decided to pull out a real camera this time. No flash. Those new lightbulbs are working well. The front of the garage (near the doors) is still a bit dark, but we didn't really need any additional light while working on the top side of the car. Just trouble lights for working underneath.

How the night started:

Courtesy table for watching. Also note the extra small mini-fridge to save time getting beer, haha.

5 speed is out! Front axles are out! One was quite a pain.

Stock 5 speed. For Sale!

6 speed shifter installed. I did some quick measurements and decided that the top linkage needed to be swapped with a linkage from a GD STI (which I had purchased). So I swapped that linkage and left the rest from the 2012 STI (has Kartboy shifter and all bushings). BUT it turns out the bottom linkage is also too long. So I'm going to have to take it all back out and swap the bottom of the linkage too

6 speed is in! 04 STI axles are in! Quite a pain getting the axles into the tranny. Seemed even tighter than it was with the 6 speed on my 2011 WRX. Also pulled the midpipe and driveshaft. Swapped the r160 driveshaft flange for one from an r180 so that I can use an STI driveshaft.

Stock 2002 WRX motor on the stand. Need to start stripping it.

2012 STI motor waiting for parts!

Getting the one axle out, and getting the 6 speed back in took way longer than expected. We also spent some time working on ofspunk7's sister's Bugeye. So it was quite the late night, but we got a lot done!


Worked on it some more last night. I pulled the shifter assembly back out and swapped on the 04 STI upper linkage as well. Both the upper and lower linkages are about an inch longer. This should have been obvious to me in the first place.

I got all of it bolted up and then found that the metal plate around the shifter (under the boot) was hitting the linkage in 1st and 3rd. After 2 or 3 go rounds with the angle grinder I ended up just taking a big chunk out and there's plenty of clearance now.

The shifter setup is 04 STI linkages, Kartboy short shifter, Kartboy/TIC bushings all around, and the Anarchy Motive heavy knob. It feels really great to actually have it in and move it through the gears. Soooo much more crisp than that stock 5 speed shifter.

My brother started work on the MapDCCD install. He got the wiring harness ready and then pulled the dash apart. He also pulled up the carpet to expose the ECU and started routing wires. That's about all the further we got on the car before calling it a night. I also pulled the turbo, uppipe, and headers off the motor.


Last night's update: My brother did more work on wiring up the MapDCCD and VSSPro. Most of the in cabin stuff is done, just needs to be buttoned up. Still have to do the connections at the ABS sensor and DCCD solenoid. I also stuck some gauges in a pod, but I haven't wired them up yet.

I moved the intake manifold onto the new engine so I could use straps on the engine hoist to lift the motor. Final install on the intake manifold will be later. Then I installed the headers, uppipe, and turbo. Finally I swapped the sprung 6 puck clutch disk for a solid 4 puck.


I didn't do any work on the car last night. The motor is basically ready to go back in (but there are still things to finish up once it's in), but I didn't have any extra hands available so I decided to wait. I was trying to get it done before NF's track day at DCTC tomorrow, but it looks like it won't be up until after that.

I did get a chance to finally setup my product photo studio at my new place. It is in my office this time. Basic 2 light setup with a white cloth backdrop. May switch to a paper roll or new cloth piece soon. I traded my fog lights for a pair of Beats by Dre, so I took a few photos of them.

I had no intention of getting headphones until a few hours before I got them. He offered and I said sure.

The MapDCCD has a better case, better interface (lights buttons), and better programming options than the DCCDPro. And the price is the same or less (if you buy the OEM controls for the DCCDPro it brings the price up a LOT).

The built in light output is a big winner for me. I really like getting realtime feedback that all things are working properly. The metal case and custom front panel have a much nicer look and feel than the plastic DCCDPro, which just feel cheap. No wonder it's meant to be hidden.

The computer interface and programming options are also a lot better (and free). It's really nice to be able to do custom programs and load any program you want. My brother really likes his MapDCCD. I will have more thoughts once I get some drive time with mine.

Here are a few more pictures:



Haven't updated this in a while. Unfortunately that's because I haven't done anything.

MapDCCD and VSSPro are close to being done. Still have to wire in boost, oil pressure, and AFR gauges. Motor is pretty much ready to go in, just need to actually put it in and then finish up all the loose ends that end up taking forever Here are a couple photos from last week that I never posted.


Not sure if anyone is even following this thread (not surprising due to my lack to activity!), but I recently saw a good deal on a 1/2" drive Craftsman impact driver, so I ordered it (on Monday). Surprisingly it already showed up today! Very fast shipping.

Here's the link:


Sears has a 15% off sale right now AND this particular item is on sale at the moment. Normally $140. On sale for $100. Order online and get the additional 15% off and it's $85! Quite a deal considering it is normally $100 for the driver alone (no battery or charger).

I decided to take some photos to compare the 1/2" drive to the 3/8" drive and the NiCad battery to the LiIon battery.

*Note: 3/8" drive is used and that is why there is discoloration on the grips.

1/2" drive w/NiCad vs. 3/8" drive w/LiIon

1/2" drive w/NiCad

3/8" drive w/LiIon

3/8" drive w/LiIon vs. 1/2" drive w/NiCad

Batteries removed

LiIon battery vs. NiCad battery

Now, with the batteries swapped around. They are nearly the exact same height like this.

1/2" drive w/LiIon vs. 3/8" drive w/NiCad


Bugeye getting some work in the background.

My brother hooked up the VSS connections last night.

Slowly making progress...


It has arrived:


Here are more photos of the turbo. It is a TD06SL2-5371 (similar to GTX3071R compressor).

My brother and I did a little more work last Friday. The turbo is on the motor. That's about it. Here are some photos.

TD06SL2-5371 vs. VF39

^That one's a bit misleading due to perspective. Haha. Here's a more accurate one:

Turbo includes nice, multi layer gaskets and a small compressor to wastegate vacuum line.

Bolted on. Stock oil line fits great. Used the included banjo bolt and crush washers.

Oil drain lines up well.




Ghetto BandAid because my brother cut his finger when trimming bump stops for his Bugeye.

Also, put this on the wall in my laundry room. The door on the right goes to the garage. Nice to be able to contain messy hands.


More work last night:

Installed AMR hard inlet.
Installed better condition OEM fuel rails with evap removed.
Installed MAW/TIC plastic TGV's.
Installed ID2k Injectors.
Started cleaning up evap/breather lines.
My brother did more wiring (MapDCCD, VSSPro, Boost, AFR, Oil Pressure). Nearly complete.

Mock up of intake manifold on the motor. Not quite ready to go on yet.

Here is an interior photo. It came out a little blurry. Oops.


Photos from last night. Got the intake manifold on and dropped the motor in! Still a bunch of little things to do, but it's getting a lot closer!

Longblock all together.

ACT HD with unsprung 4 puck disk.


Real tools.

Ready to go in.

Didn't trust the straps so we dropped it in by hand.

Safely in place.

More things attached.

Cleaning up wiring. MapDCCD, VSSPro, Wideband AFR, Boost, Oil Pressure.

Also changed the PS/alternator belt on my brother's car. Easy fix for a loud squeal he had.


Last night I put on the driveshaft, downpipe, exhaust, coolant overflow, windshield washer fluid, boost controller lines, turbo coolant lines, moved intake manifold grounds (due to plastic TGV's), and connected the head-to-chassis grounds.

I think these are the only things I have left: TMIC, FPR, alternator bracket and alternator, hood, wheels, oil change, coolant fill and burp, and tuning. I am still waiting on the FPR and alternator bracket, but hopefully they arrive soon and I can get to work.


  • OEM 2012 STI 2.5L Case
  • OEM 2012 STI Heads
  • OEM STI Nitrided Crank
  • OEM STI 11mm Oil Pump
  • OEM STI Gasket Set
  • CP 99.75mm 8.2:1 Pistons
  • Manley Turbo Tuff I Beam Rods
  • ACL Rod and Main Bearings
  • ARP Head Studs
  • GSC S1 Camshafts
  • GSC Beehive Springs w/Retainers
  • GSC Valve Seals
  • Torque Solution Motor Mounts


  • GrimmSpeed CrossPipe
  • GrimmSpeed Uppipe
  • GrimmSpeed Downpipe
  • Perrin CatBack Exhaust
  • TD06SL2-5371 Turbo
  • GrimmSpeed Gaskets
  • GrimmSpeed TMIC w/Gold Tape
  • GrimmSpeed TMIC Splitter
  • GrimmSpeed Y-Pipe Kit
  • GrimmSpeed MBC
  • 04 STI Fuel Pump Hanger
  • Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
  • ID2000cc Injectors
  • TurboSmart FPR


  • OEM 2012 STI 6MT
  • OEM 2004 STI Driveshaft
  • OEM STI R180 Rear Diff Flange
  • Anarchy Motive Shift Knob
  • Kartboy Short Shifter
  • Kartboy Front Shifter Bushings
  • Karboy Rear Shifter Bushings
  • Torque Solution Tranny Mount
  • Torque Solution Pitch Stop Mount
  • ACT HD Pressure Plate
  • ACT 4 Puck Unsprung Disk


  • OEM 2002 WRX Wheels
  • 04 STI Struts
  • 04 STI Springs


  • MapDCCD
  • VSSPro
  • ProSport EVO Boost Gauge
  • ProSport EVO Oil Pressure Gauge
  • Innovative LC1 Wideband O2 Gauge
  • Odyssey Slim Battery


  • Installed OEM Hood Scoop


Update from Saturday:

Yellow Bugeye getting an oil change.

Lows in the single digits called for the heater to be turned on.

Start of the night.

Tranny fluid. Fill on the top.

Wait for it to come out the side (no dipstick on the newer 6MT's).

Notched the stock heat shield for the wastegate arm (already modified to fit the downpipe).

Notched the stock heat shield for the wastegate arm (already modified to fit the downpipe).

Hood back on, wheels back on, car on the ground, and garage finally cleaned up!

3 cars parked inside for the first time in quite a while.

All together and on the ground.

All done except fuel lines to the FPR because I bought the wrong size.

Found fuel lines in one of my boxes and put them on the next day. Mounting point worked out nicely. Used the 02-07 oil fill neck to allow for clearance.

4 bar MAP sensor.

GrimmSpeed MBC and vacuum line setup.


Not much new progress on the garage itself, but I did score some new tool storage chests over the weekend (early Christmas presents!). Coupons/Black Friday deals got me some good prices, plus I got 20% off employee discount because my wife's sister works at Harbor Freight.

I'm super happy to finally have a place to store my growing collection of tools! It was becoming quite a mess and taking up a lot of space. The storage items from Harbor Freight seem to be of very nice quality. I spent Friday night organizing all my tools and cleaned up my garage a bit.



PS. Car is tuned and running well.


Here's the plot. 25psi peak, tapering to 22psi on E85:

Top end feels strong and the plot agrees with this. Load is steady up top even though boost drops off. Car pulls hard all the way to 7k. Could try revving it further but haven't done that yet. Spool is not super early, but that is expected with cams and non-AVCS. Power comes on by around 4k so it is still a solid 3k of usable powerband.

Below is a comparison to the 2.0L with TD04 and VF39. Overall shape of the curve is similar with the larger turbo and larger motor, but the power is much higher. Little to nothing is lost on the low end of the powerband so it still feels fairly good around town but now it really takes off once you get the rev's into the 3k-4k range and above.

Note: High vehicle weight due to 4 people in the car. Compared to the other runs it is 3 additional people plus the added weight of the 6 speed. I think it should be a fairly conservative estimate but I will have to try and get a run without all the passengers at some point if I can find time.

Overall I'm very happy with the setup and the results. The turbo responds well and makes solid power for the boost that it's at. I think it could do even more with full bolt on's (EL headers, EWG, FMIC, etc) and more boost, but I'm not sure if I'll do that or just hold off here. For now I'm quite pleased with how it turned out and excited to spend some time driving it!


Upgraded from PVC pipe hood prop (included with car!) to GrimmSpeed Hood Struts:


Tonight my brother and I put my interior back together and I picked up a set of snow tires and put those on.

Blizzak WS70 Tires
205/60R16 on 16" Steelies


Interior Shot:

Driver's Position:

Outdoor Shots:


Here is a video of the STX 71 (TD06SL2-GTX3071) @ 25psi on E85:

Video of the car running through the gears with the new motor/turbo/transmission setup. FFS'ing through the gears with wheelspin on the shifts (you can see the speedo jump during shifts). 50-100mph clocks in around 5.9 seconds. Seems about right for just over 400WHP and one shift in that range. The VF39 was mid 8-second range for 50-100mph so this is a pretty solid improvement.

50-100mph is 5.9 seconds

427WHP on Virtual Dyno (Dynojet)


  • OEM 2012 STI 2.5L Case
  • OEM 2012 STI Heads
  • OEM STI Nitrided Crank
  • OEM STI 11mm Oil Pump
  • OEM STI Gasket Set
  • CP 99.75mm 8.2:1 Pistons
  • Manley Turbo Tuff I Beam Rods
  • ACL Rod and Main Bearings
  • ARP Head Studs
  • GSC S1 Camshafts
  • GSC Beehive Springs w/Retainers
  • GSC Valve Seals
  • Torque Solution Motor Mounts


  • GrimmSpeed CrossPipe
  • GrimmSpeed Uppipe
  • GrimmSpeed Downpipe
  • Perrin CatBack Exhaust
  • Steam STX 71 (TD06SL2+GTX3071R) Turbo
  • GrimmSpeed Gaskets
  • GrimmSpeed TMIC w/Gold Tape
  • GrimmSpeed TMIC Splitter
  • GrimmSpeed Y-Pipe Kit
  • GrimmSpeed MBC
  • 04 STI Fuel Pump Hanger
  • Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
  • ID2000cc Injectors
  • TurboSmart FPR


  • OEM 2012 STI 6MT
  • OEM 2004 STI Driveshaft
  • OEM STI R180 Rear Diff Flange
  • Anarchy Motive Shift Knob
  • Kartboy Short Shifter
  • Kartboy Front Shifter Bushings
  • Karboy Rear Shifter Bushings
  • Torque Solution Tranny Mount
  • Torque Solution Pitch Stop Mount
  • ACT HD Pressure Plate
  • ACT 4 Puck Unsprung Disk


Time for a new BOV.


More photos of new parts:


TurboSmart Dual Port BOV is for sale:



My brother and I took off the front end stuff last night:

Forester is covered in salt. This was after getting a car wash earlier in the day

Also seen in this photo is the full size fridge I moved out there when we got a new one for the kitchen


New oil line:


A new noisemaker arrived today. TurboSmart Comp-Gate40.


Picked up a COBB exhaust:


I got some OEM fog light covers today:


I sent out my headlights to Overland Designs for restoration. Here are some "before" photos:

Unfortunately I packed them into and oversize box filled with some pillows and some random pieces of garbage. The headlights were ruined in transit

So, I ended up having to buy some new headlights. I got some DEPO "JDM" style headlights off eBay. Here are some photos of them:


I just received some new gear from RacingLine. It all looks great. I can't wait until the weather warms up and I get do some driving with the new shoes.


I have these parts waiting to go on:

  • TurboXS BOV
  • TurboXS FMIC
  • FP Oil Line Kit
  • Rebuilt STX71 (Production Specs)
  • Silver RS Hood
  • ProDrive Front Lip
  • Silver OEM Fog Covers
  • TurboSmart 40mm EWG
  • GrimmSpeed EWG Uppipe
  • COBB Catback Exhaust
  • DEPO Blacked Out Headlights

I've just been really lazy and unmotivated by the winter.

Hopefully I'll be able to put it back together one of these days. I've been missing it!


These appeared over the weekend:


Did some work, but didn't get a whole lot done. My brother came over to help and to install some new strut assemblies onto his Bugeye. Unfortunately he forgot that he had taken 4 jackstands to his house, and my car was on the other 4. So we had no way to hold up his car so we didn't do anything with his.

This was the tentative plan for install tonight. Put the header back on (not in photo). Swap out the GrimmSpeed Uppipe for their EWG version, install the TurboSmart EWG, install the FP oil feed line, and then install the turbo (rebuilt STX71, now made to production specs, 1mm larger compressor).

First I took the OEM oil hardline off and installed the FP line. No issues. Then I took the uppipe off the header and then put the header back on. Then I put on the new EWG header. Then I remembered that I needed to plug the BPV recirc port on the inlet. I took the recirc hose off and tried one of the caps I bought. I got a 1" cap, but I think I'm going to need 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".

So without that I didn't want to put the turbo on because it will be harder to reach after the turbo is installed. I mounted one of the uppipe to motor brackets and then called it a night. I could have probably done the EWG, but I'm not really in a rush. I'll buy a new cap for the inlet and then go at installing the turbo. Maybe tomorrow if I have time.

Wheels are still sitting in boxes waiting for me to decide what tires I want.

And a current shot of the Forester with the 2011 WRX wheels back on. They sure do look nice!


I'm sure you've seen them before. Nothing new or unique.

No progress on the car. Hopefully I'll stop being lazy one of these days.

I FINALLY got the wastegate block off from GrimmSpeed


Small update from the other night:

  • Installed the EWG
  • Installed IWG Blockoff on Turbo
  • Installed Turbo onto Car
  • Ordered Federal 595 RS-R Tires

The turbo didn't have studs for the DP (again), so I had to go buy another set. 

Picked up the following:

  • Turbo Studs
  • GS Battery Tie Down
  • GS Antenna Deleta
  • GS Keychain
  • GS MPLS Shirt

Over the weekend I need to install the turbo studs and put the rest of the exhaust back on. Then do the FMIC install. Hopefully next week the tires show up and I can get them mounted and the car on the road.



Here's another update from Saturday night:

  • Installed Turbo Studs
  • Installed Coolant Hoses onto Turbo
  • Installed FMIC Core
  • Instaleld FMIC Piping
  • Installed BOV

Things that still need to be done:

  • Cut Bumper for FMIC
  • Install Bumper
  • Install Foglight Covers
  • Install Front Lip
  • Install Grill
  • Install Headlights
  • Install Downpipe
  • Install Catback Exhaust
  • Swap Hood
  • Remove Charcoal Canister

The knock off TurboXS FMIC went on pretty well. No major issues, but a few small things that had to be resolved.

I already had the bumper and bumper beam off. The bumper beam bolts tend to be quite rusty so use PBlaster and try not to snap anything off. Mine all came off fine despite the corrosion. The new bumper beam bolts in easily. I mocked up my grill to try and get the beam mounted at the right height. The grill and core basically locate the beam where it needs to go. Hopefully that all works out once the bumper is on.

The core mounts to the bottom of the frame with two brackets that go into bolt holes that are normally used for the front u-brace and maybe the splash guard. I have both of these removed so I don't quite remember. The threaded holes are really just nuts welded inside the frame rail. When taking off the u-brace I broke one of these nuts. I had to cut the bolt off and then drill a hole in through the top of the beam and drop a long both through to mount the core. It worked great and is very secure.

With the core secured on the bottom, and the beam mounted on top, I then bolted the beam to the core. I didn't realize there was a rectangular bracket in the kit so I tried to use a bunch or washers all while being very confused why they cut a square hole. Later on I found the rectangle bracket and it all bolted together very easily once that was in place. Here is a photo.

After that I pulled the OEM coolant overflow and replaced it with the small one they provide. The mounting bracket works well. Next I laid out all piping, couplers, and clamps based on photos from online. The pipes were much less ambiguous than on the 08+ kits, so it was pretty easy to figure out where everything went. I then bolted up the driver's side pipes. First loosely fitting all the pipes and couplers and once it was all lined up, then tightening it down. No issues. Perfect fitment.

Onto the passenger's side. The first thing I did was put the edging in to the hole the FMIC piping passes through. Edging fit perfect and looks like it will work great. Then I mocked up the lower two pipes. The top pipe has the BOV mounting flange. I bought a TurboXS BOV due to the (assumed) bolt on fit. Unfortunately the mounting flange OD was too large and the BOV wouldn't fit on. This was an issue that I had noted previously and knew I needed to resolve.

I had purchased some coarse grit sandpaper and went to work sanding it down. After I while it still didn't seem like I was getting much closer and I noted that the BOV comes with a mounting flange (for welding onto a custom setup). But I realized I could just use a small house and use the adapter onto the other flange. Here are a couple photos to make things more clear.

Supposed mounting point on my piping kit:

TurboXS BOV is supposed to be able to slide on and be secured with set screws (not my photo):

TurboXS BOV comes with weld on flanges (one aluminum and one steel):

So I got out the pipe cutter and chopped down the flange on the pipe to only be ~1/2" long and then cut off a short piece of hose and clamped it on. Then I stuck the BOV adapter into the other end of the hose and clamped it down. Finally the BOV goes onto the adapter flange and the set screws hold it on. Not quite as elegant or pretty as the normal setup, but it is secure and shouldn't give me any issues.

Once that was on I bolted that pipe onto the throttle body and the rest of the passenger side piping. I had purchased the correct throttle body reducer coupler (since it is not included) and used one of the clamps I had used with the throttle body previously. The fitment on this pipe was a little tight but not too bad. Everything is clamped down securely.

I did not use the drivers side mounting bracket. I seem uncessary and will likely break. The 08+ kits don't have any hard mounting points for the piping and it was never an issue, so I think I'll be fine. The hot and cold side pipes do touch near the throttle body so I'll have to keep and eye on them for wear.

So, the FMIC is all on. Just need to hack up the bumper to get it to fit. Any suggestions on the best cutting tool? I think I might just go with a Dremel with cutoff wheel, unless something else will work better. Will a jigsaw or some other reciprocating saw work? I'm worried it's too tight of a space to work. Anyone know how much of the lower section of the bumper needs to be cut out? From what I can tell it looks like about ~1" from the front?

Picked up a new Dremel and a mini hacksaw. Hopefully one of these will work.

My battery powered Dremel seemed like a good idea when I bought it years ago, but in the end the battery just doesn't have a lot of power and runs out fairly quickly. So this plug in Dremel should be a nice upgrade.

I did cut some of my 2011 bumper with the Dremel and high speed cut off wheel last time, so I know it will at least work, but it's not a real clean cut and kind of melts the plastic. It cuts quick though, haha. I did notice that Dremel makes a saw attachment now. Anyone have experience with this?



Here are some photos of the FMIC/bumper fitment issues. I've basically cut as much as possible that will still be hidden by the fog light covers. From what I can tell the core probably needs to be lower? I'll try shimming the mounts with washers and see if that helps any.

Driver Side:

Passenger Side:

Front (No Issues):

It is somewhat close to fitting, but the piping makes the front of the bumper sit a little to high, and that pull the alignment of the sides of the bumper so it won't fit.

Mock Up:


My brother and I did a couple more hours of work last night. First we swapped the hood. Getting the GS dampers onto the new hood was a bit of a challenge since they were already bolted to the car. One I ended up popping the clip off to get it on, the other I just muscled the damper into the right spot and got the bolt in.

Next I went to install the downpipe only to find that it wouldn't fit on with the EWG dump tube in place. I am pretty sure I could do it on my 2011 WRX, but it just wasn't happening, so I took the EWG dump tube off. Then put the DP on, and then up the EWG dump tube back on. Getting that EWG dump was quite a pain to do with the DP on. Very little room to work.

That's all the further we got over a couple hours. Still need to bolt on the

6/10/14 Update

  • Install Downpipe
  • Swap Hood

Things that still need to be done:

  • Install Catback Exhaust
  • Remove Charcoal Canister
  • Plug BPV Recirc Hose
  • Cut Bumper for FMIC
  • Install Bumper/Fog Covers/Lip/Grill/Headlights
  • Install Wheels/Tires


Last night I installed the catback and removed the charcoal canister. The gasket between the midpipe and axleback was fused to the flanges. I chipped off as much as possible and then put the sanding barrel on the Dremel and ground off the rest. Flanges ended up fairly smooth and clean and should make a good seal. Used GrimmSpeed 3" exhaust gaskets on the midpipe to axleback and midpipe to downpipe. Everything bolted up great. Looking forward to hearing how it sounds.

I also removed the charcoal canister. The mounting bolts were really rusty. I sprayed them with PBlaster, but they weren't moving with the impact gun or with a ratchet. I eventually just muscled them and broke two of the bolts clean off, but the third on stripped the nut so I had to cut the bracket off with a cutoff wheel. The clamps on the hoses also were rusted frozen so I just cut the hoses off. Now basically all of the evap system has been deleted.

I almost forgot, but I also plugged the BPV recirc hose. The hose is 1.25" ID and a PVC pipe cap for a 3/4" pipe fits perfectly. The walls on the cap are 1/4" so the OD ends up being 1.25". It slips right in and I clamped it down just to be save. I zip tied the hose to the intake manifold so it wouldn't just be flopping around.

Now all that's left is getting that bumper to fit on, and then getting the tires mounted and put on the wheels.


6/13/14 (Friday):

  • Federal 595 RS-R Arrived
  • Dropped Off Tires To Be Mounted
  • Bought A Set of Stock Rear Axles (Just In Case)
  • Adjusted FMIC Piping

To get the bumper to fit on, all I had to do was loosen the clamps on the couplers going to the core. Then angle the couplers down and back as much as possible and then tighten the clamps back down. The pipes angle off the core at a little bit of a downward angle, and the bumper fits pretty well. 

The cuts turned out pretty good. Did the Dremel with high speed cutoff wheel for the cutting and then the Dremel with a sanding drum to clean things up. I didn't need to cut nearly that much off for the foglights, but it's all hidden behind the covers so it doesn't matter.

6/14/14 (Saturday):

  • Installed Hood
  • Installed Bumper/Grill/Lights
  • Removed Fender Liners
  • Installed Fog Light Covers
  • Started Car - Oil Leak

Saturday evening the wheels/tires got dropped off. Saturday night my brother and I installed the flat hood, finished installing the bumper/grill/headlights, and put on the fog light covers. I didn't have brackets for the fog light covers, but some 4" long 1/4" bolts worked fine. They aren't quite the right angle, but they'll hold things on. Realized I didn't have headlights bulbs. Still need to buy those.

After he went home I got everything ready to start up the car for the first time. Dead battery. Jumped it (after priming the turbo). Started it up and heard a leak. Look under the car and oil is dripping out at an alarming rate. Turn off the car. Made a big mess in just a few seconds.

After somewhat cleaning up the mess I checked around and figured out the leak was coming from the oil feed line (FP oil feed) on the back of the head. I tried tightening it down and got the banjo bolt to turn a bit more. I thought I had it solved so I redid the whole process and it still leaked. It was getting really late so I cleaned up a little more and then called it quits for the night.

6/15/14 (Sunday):

  • Fixed Turbo Oil Feed Leak
  • Started Car
  • Put On Wheels
  • Drove 20 ft In/Out of Garage

Sunday night I pulled the oil feed line off the head and checked it out. Everything looked fine. I was a little suspect of the washers. The ones FP includes don't appear to be copper. They just look like a regular washer. I decided to try reusing the OEM washers and banjo bolt. I dug that out and started putting things back together.

At some point I realized that when the oil line points straight up (like I had it before), the wrench flats on the FP line hit the head casting and prevent the banjo fitting from sitting flat against the head! Over-tightening it would have just bent/broken something. I found that if point the hose straight down there is plenty of clearance.

The OEM line doesn't have this issue since it is a solid hardline with nut with wrench flats. Just a hardline soldered onto a banjofitting. It can sit flush without any issue. Once I had the FP oil line oriented properly and tightened down I started up the car and no leak! I did use the OEM bolt and washers, but I don't think that was the issue. Just the alignment and interference.

I threw the wheels on and took the car off the stands. Still no headlight bulbs and it was late so all I did was back it in and out of the garage. Hopefully will get it tuned soon, and then take it to BIR this weekend for Proving Grounds 2014.

Thanks! Can't wait to get it tuned!

Here's a little more info on the turbo oil feed line issue.

The 02 WRX is non-AVCS and therefore the OEM oil feed line goes of the back of the head and straight to the turbo. It does not go both directions as some of the AVCS setups do. It just uses a normal banjo bolt instead of the dual exit one. Here's an example of what it looks like stock:

My motor does have AVCS (I am not using it, but it's hooked up), but the newer motors pull the AVCS feed from a different banjoon the top of the motor. So it can still use the simple turbo oil feed line on the back of the head. Here's a photo showing how the oil feed for the AVCS is setup.

I bought the Forced Perfomance "NON-AVCS" oil line kit. It's meant to connect to the back of the head and go directly to the turbo. Very simple design. Just a banjo on each end and a hose between. The end of the hose has a nut for using a wrench to tighten down the banjo bolt.


The issue is with the nut on the end of the hose, before the banjo. Unless the nut just happens to align so that there is a flat side on the same flat as the banjo, it will interfere when mounted to a flat surface. This is what happened to me.

I pointed the hose up, and the nut hit part of the casting on the head, so the banjo wouldn't sit flat. I had to point the hose down and there is a carved out portion that it sits into perfectly. The bolt tightens down fully and no leaks! Simple solution, but quite a headache.


Car is really dirty, but here are a couple quick outdoor photos.


Close up of the bulge with these 235's on 8" wheels:

2011 WRX Wheels - 17x8" +53
Federal 595 RS-R Tires - 235/45R17
OEM 04 STI Springs/Shocks


Here are some more photos of the car:

Here are some results from the tuning last night:

It made just over 450WHP @ 26psi on E85. Spools pretty late, but top end feels strong and boost holds well.

Comparison to the last time:

Differences: Before -> After

  • Turbo Compressor: 53mm Inducer -> 54mm Inducer
  • Intercooler: GrimmSpeed TMIC -> TurboXS FMIC
  • Blow Off Valve: Stock BPV Crushed -> TurboXS RFL BOV
  • Uppipe: GrimmSpeed Uppipe -> GrimmSpeed EWG Uppipe
  • Wastegate: Internal Wastegate -> TurboSmart 40mm
  • Outside Temperature: 30-40F -> 70-80F

The powerband does feel quite different. What is seen on the plot can be felt on the road. It really gets into power around 5k. This is really pretty late, but the power comes on strong and feels good out to redline. Once in the power it feels good, but it takes a bit to get there. 

Not an ideal powerband for daily/street or autocross, but for occasional driving and drag events it should work great. I am looking forward to seeing what it will do at at the track. I am hoping it will do 11's and trap in the 120's, but I'll be on street tires so we'll see how well it grips.

Here is a quick speedo video:


First pass of the day yesterday. Hoping to go faster today!


I doubt they'll be up tonight. Nights are busy...

I have made many passes.....

A few more 11.4's @ 122. Unfortunately none better than that though

Happy to say the car is still in one piece at this point! I hope it stays that way....


Event: 1/4 Mile at MAPerformance Proving Grounds 2014.1
Location: MN
Ambient Temp: 60-85F
Elevation: ~1200ft
Weather: Sunny and Clear
Tires: 235/45R17 Federal 595 RS-R Tires on Stock 2011 WRX Wheels

Car: 2002 WRX Sedan
Tuner: Nuke @ NF Performance
Transmission: 2012 STI 6 Speed
1/4 Mile ET: 11.42s
1/4 Mile Trap: 122.7mph
60': 1.88s
Target Boost: 26psi
Target AFR: 11's
Fuel: E85

11.42s @ 122.7mph with 1.88s 60'

The car ran great up at BIR. It did an 11.5 the first run on Friday. I did one other 11.5, but I battled with IC pipes popping off and the VSS/LC not working correctly. On Saturday it was trapping a little higher (in the 122's) and it did several 11.4's. I had trouble getting any decent 60' times or I think it could have gone a bit lower.

Overall did about 20 passes over Friday and Saturday. I was launching at 6k and did an 8k launch (can be seen in the video) when the VSS/LC was acting up. From what I could tell I had some of the lowest times in the SA (stock appearing) class. On Sunday I went to do a test run and snapped my rear driver's axle on the first pass.

I had brought to spare rear axles, but I had already given one to someone else who broke an axle, so I only had one left. I swapped it but decided not to run anymore because I had to drive it 2 hours back home. Overall I had a great time and the car was a blast! I think it felt great for how it was set up and I was happy with the power it was making.

Here are a couple more videos from the track:


Since I actually had a car I was driving this year, my brother took photos with my Canon S110. I took a few with a Canon 5D as well.

Here's a link to the gallery:


John's broken axle:

My broken axle:


Here are some photos I took last night while I was at Boom Island for an MNSubaru meet.

The full gallery can be found here:


My daughter is the miniature photographer

Which would you rather have?


I did a little work on the car last night. 

Completed 6/26/14:

  • Extend Breather Hose Vent - Done
  • Install PW JDM Bumper Quick Release - Done
  • Fix Exhaust Leak at Downpipe to Catback - Installed Double Gasket
  • Check Tire Pressure - Raised to 36psi

First was updating the crankcase breather hose. Backing up a bit, I originally plumed the heads to the port on back of the block, and then out to atmosphere through the OEM PCV valve, and through a small 9/32" hose to the back of the car. This ended up being a restriction and caused the car to smoke on decel. 

A day before going up to BIR I redid it with 1/2" hose all the way. I swapped the OEM t-fitting (with PCV valve) for a normal 1/2" t-fitting. Then I used a ~2ft 1/2" hose to vent to atmosphere. That's all the hose I had at the time, so it ended up venting right by the front axle. It cure the smoking issue, but smelled terrible while idling.

So last night I swapped the ~2ft hose for a ~10ft 1/2" hose and ran it all the way to the back of the car. It still vents properly, but smells much better in the cabin. This is great because I've been daily driving the car this week. I ziptied the hose up out of the way of any moving parts. I'll just have to keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't fall down.

Here's a shot of the t-fitting going to the vent (can't really see much):

Next up was the PW JDM bumper quick releases. During the FMIC install I noted that the bumper was a pretty tight fit, so I bought this kit. But in the end I got a few clips in and it seemed fine. But while at the dragstrip I popped the corner clip out twice, so I figure I probably should just put on the quick releases to be safe. I'm not super sold on the look, but it isn't all that bad.

Here's the parts:

I used a 3" BandAid to measure the hole spacing:

Drilled some holes with a stepped bit:

Installed with allen key and 11mm socket, then put on the rubber o-ring:

Not too noticeable from a distance:

Then I put the car up on stands to check on an exhaust leak at the downpipe to midpipe. I loosened the bolts, centered the two flanges and tightened it back down. It still leaked. Then I took a look and notice that the flanges don't quite align flat. The bottom is touching, but the top has a gap. I grabbed another GrimmSpeed 3" gasket and doubled it up. This seems to have cured or nearly cured the leak. Hopefully with some heat cycles it will decide to seal up. Otherwise I can add some silicone gasket maker.

Last thing was to go for a drive and add 10psi back into the tires. I had dropped it to 25psi for the track and then forgotten to fill them back up. Now I'm back up around 36psi which should be a bit better for normal street use. Since I've been daily driving the car, this should help with mileage a bit.


Here are some new shots from tonight:


Here are some new images from today.

NF Performance:


Recaro Euro Carseat:

Anarchy Motive Shift Knob:

MapDCCD Controller:


I finally got my Prodrive lip installed tonight (it has been sitting in my garage for >6 months). It was definitely a tight fit, but I made it work. I started by bolting on the ends, then I used a clamp to hold the lip up in place, and then I drilled holes through the lip and bumper. Once I made the holes I bolted it on. I did 4 bolts along the bottom as well as the 2 on the ends. 6 in total. Nothing in the middle, because there really isn't anything good to bolt it to. I did it all with the bumper on the car. I think this was one of my issues when I was trying to install it before (with the bumper off the car).

I didn't use any of the double sided tape that was included, or any epoxy/glue that others have used. I used 6mm threaded nuts and bolts with flanged heads, going into a 1/4" hole. I may go back and add washers just in case. Even now they feel pretty secure, but the two middle bolts aren't actually holding the lip and bumper flat against each other. There is a gap (this is why it is normally held with tape instead of bolts or clips), so there could be some bounce/shifting while driving. I may have to Loctite the nuts. We'll see. I hope it holds up!

Here are some camera phone pictures. Prepare for terrible quality!

One on each end (through existing holes in the bumper):

The one on the right is through and existing hole in the bumper. The one on the left I had to drill a new hole:

Reverse angle:

Installed photos:

Here are some outdoor camera phone shots:


Here are some better photos with the lip on.

New ride height:

Eibach Pro Kit Springs
OEM WRX Struts


My Bugeye made a new friend tonight.


Inspired by the Bugeye thread. Supposed to be one post per year, but I have only had the car a year. 


  • Stock
  • 185 WHP
  • 185k Miles


  • Built 2.5L - 6MT - Full Bolt On's
  • STX71 Turbo - E85 @ 27psi
  • 450 WHP - 11.4s @ 122.7mph
  • 2011 WRX Wheels - Eibach Springs
  • FMIC - Prodrive Lip
  • Deleted: Fogs, Scoop, Wing


Photos from MN Cars and Coffee on July 5th.

Here's a few more of the outdoor photos from last week (with Eibach springs).


COBB Exhaust Sound Video - 2002 WRX:

Teaser for now...


Here's a shot from tonight:


I put an air filter into my WRX last night. Apparently they didn't come with one in 2002.

Also, check out the new thread title! Thanks to whichever mod changed it for me!


Installed some new spark plugs last night:

Stock Heat Range Iridium NGK LFR6AIX-11: Gapped to 0.025"

The car previously had 1 Step Colder NGK Iridiums gapped to 0.028"


I did the DIY $10 Remote Oil Pressure Sender mod today. FYI - This is needed with the normal ProSport oil pressure sender, due to its large size (hits the alternator). The Defi and ProSport Premium sensors are much smaller and can be bolted right into the galley plug without any issues. I'm not sure about other brands/models. Also keep in mind that some brands are NPT and some are metric. ProSport is NPT, so it is easy to find hardware that fits.

Prior to that I was running two 90 deg fittings to allow the ProSport pressure sender to clear the alternator. This was OK, except it wasn't screwed in real tight due to the necessity to be able to "clock" it for proper alternator clearance. Eventually it developed a small leak and it didn't seem like it was going to get any better, so I went for the remote install mod.

Here's a shot of the "before" setup:

I bought the parts from Home Depot. Online they show a 12" hose for $5, but in the store they only had the 18" hose that costs $9.62. The 1/8" straight coupler was $2.65 so the total with tax came out to be just over $10. If you order parts online, or go to Harbor Freight, you could probably do this for close to $5. I would keep in mind where you want to mount the sender, I think 18" is actually just about perfect.

Here's a shot of the parts:

First step is to remove the grease gun adapter from the end. It appears to be held on with red Loctite, but I got it off with just normal wrenches and no heat.

Here's a photo with it off:

Then just screw all the parts together. This is a mock up. I ended up deciding to put the strain relief spring on the end that goes into the galley plug and into the block. I figured there was more chance for stress there since it was hard mounted. I don't think it really matters though.

Here's a shot of it going into the block:

I ran it behind the alternator and zip tied it to the alternator wire's loom.

So far so good. Seems to be a great solution and much cheaper than the kits they sell. And waaay better than the two 90 deg fittings that I was using before.

MapDCCD Wheel Speed Sensor:

xluben's MapDCCD Wheel Speed Sensor (VSS) Photos, Installation, and Review


FYI - The website has now been updated with the full info on the VSS.

Link to Website:

Link to Manual:


Did a few small things last night:

  • Installed Lower Radio Storage Slot (Upper Still Empty)
  • Removed BPV Hose (Plugged) and Installed 1.25" Cap on Inlet Port
  • Removed Front and Rear Door Speakers (No Radio Installed)
  • DIY LIcense Plate Relocation (Screwed to Fog Light Cover)
  • Filled Up on E85 (Currently $2.34/Gallon)

A few new shots of my car:


Another shot from when I met up with my friend's 2015 STI.


I think it's time to go bigger. My stock location GTX3071 hybrid is now up for sale.



Turbo is sold, out of the car, and boxed up (original box with foam).


It appears I had a bit of an uppipe to turbo leak. That could explain the late-ish spool.


Camera phone pics:



  • The new turbo I put on the car is the Kinugawa TD06H 60-1 with Billet wheel. Thanks to Nuke at NF Performance for the hook up on the turbo! This turbo is a 60mm compressor, which is the largest size that can fit in the stock sized inlet (for easier install).
  • This compressor is 6mm larger than the STX 71 turbo (that I previously had). The TD06H hotside is also quite a bit bigger (than the TD06SL2 that the last turbo had). This turbo is somewhat comparable in size to a GT 35R, FP Red, PTE 5858, DOM4 XTR, etc.

Here is it compared to some other turbo's commonly used on Subaru's:

Here are some photos of the turbo prior to install (it is a little dirty because I had been handling it and doing test fittings to make sure I got all the fittings and lines set up properly).

Here's the stock photo. The turbo really does come with everything you see.

Here's the photo of mine. At this point I had:

  • Removed the Kinugawa billet wastegate actuator.
  • Installed the GrimmSpeed wastegate block off arm.
  • Installed the oil drain fitting and gasket.
  • Installed both coolant banjo fittings.
  • All other included parts can be seen in the photo.

The included oil line is very nice. It looks just like the FP kit I have on the car.

Also included are braided SS coolant lines (terminated with a barb fitting).

The turbo comes with a nice billet wastegate actuator. I'm not using it due to my EWG setup.

Front. Note the very thin inlet due to the 60mm compressor wheel just barely fitting in a 2.4" inlet.

Rear. 8cm hotside.

Coolant lines on the top ports. There is not enough room to use the bottom port (like the OEM fitting).


  • Overall it went pretty smoothly. The turbo fits pretty well for jamming something similar to a 35R into a stock location setup. The braided coolant lines work out nicely the way I set them up. Everything bolts up without much of an issue.
  • I did have to run the oil feed under the inlet and around to the other side of the turbo so the line could squeeze between the turbine housing and the coolant banjo fitting. There wasn't enough room on the passenger side.
  • I got it all done last night, primed the turbo, and fired it up. I ran it for a long time (30-40min) with a funnel in the coolent reservoir trying to burp the air out of the cooling system, but the bubbles just kept coming.
  • Eventually I shut the car off and then could hear a leak from the CHRA area. It was losing coolant. Not a lot, but enough so it wasn't usable. I couldn't pinpoint the exact location. The coolant line banjo fittings seemed tight.
  • Today after work I took off the FMIC pipe, the oil feed line, and the coolant feed line/banjo. This allowed me to access the plug in the lower cooling ports in the CHRA. The one on the driver side was completely loose!
  • I tightened that down and put everything else back together. Fired it up and burped the air out within maybe 15 min. The fans only had to kick on a couple times and then the bubbles stopped.

Here's a photo showing how the coolant lines are run.

And here's a engine bay shot of the current setup.


  • I also reversed the airflow in the FMIC setup. All I had to do was wiggle the pipes a bit and the last two could be hooked into the opposite things (turbo vs. throttle body).
  • This should keep the air going into the motor a lot cooler because it's not going right over the turbo before going into the throttle body. I really don't know why they were ever set up like this in the first place.
  • The turbo is not tuned yet. Hopefully Nuke will be able to fit me in sometime soon. I am looking forward to seeing how this turbo will pan out. I'm hoping it will make a bit more power than the last one. We'll see...


Nuke spent a few hours tweaking the tune and did many revisions last night. The car is driving great. It is smoother and more well behaved off boost than it ever has been since I got it. The response is good, although it does come on in the higher RPMrange, as expected with a 60mm turbo. He also did some more WOT tuning of course

The power delivery is very smooth. It doesn't slam the midrange like a smaller turbo. It just builds and keeps climbing. Even revving it out to close to 8k the power is still there. Butt dyno just feels like it's going up and up the further you rev. Boost comes on sooner than the STX 71 (54mm compressor), but I did find I had an uppipe to turbo leak once I pulled that turbo off (PHOTO).

The 60-1 is currently tuned to around 30psi and it holds it flat all the way to redline. The Virtual Dyno shows it making 484 WHP / 426 WTQ. Not a huge jump in peak, but it's just a Virtual Dyno plot, so the 1/4 traps will tell the real story. It hits 20psi (and 300WHP) at around 4,400rpm's. It makes 400WHP at about 5,000rpm's and then climbs/flattens out to redline. It's a decent powerband for the street and plenty for drag. I am hoping this setup can get me close to 10's.

Compared to the STX71 (which had the uppipe to turbo leak hurting the spool, but still made decent power and trapped 122mph) the 60-1 setup has a decent bump in power throughout the rev range, and has power coming on 300-400rpm's sooner. Both hold boost well. The STX 71 was peaking around 27psi vs about 30psi for the 60-1. I think if I can pick up a few mph through the traps with the new setup I will be close to 10's with a good pass.

Versus the prototype STX 71 (which was a 53mm compressor inducer instead of 54mm of the production turbo) the 60-1 spools later by a few hundred RPM's but holds boost a lot better on the top end. I think this is a more typical example of what would happen when you go to a larger turbo (the STX71 was a bit of an anomaly since it had the uppipe leak and spooled slow for its size).


Here's a quick speedo video of my car running through the gears with the Kinugawa 60-1. The 50-100mph time is around 4.8 seconds. It was in the 5.5 second range when I was at the dragstrip with the STX71 (11.4s @ 122mph passes). With the 60-1 it seems like the car is still really moving in the 100mph+ range.

Kinugawa TD06H 60-1 @ 30psi on E85 Video

50-100mph is 4.8 seconds
484WHP on Virtual Dyno (Dynojet)

I did some comparisons vs. my old setups. 

  • I did 50-110mph because the extra top end really starts to show the differences in the faster setups. I didn't do higher than 110mph because I didn't have speedo vids that high for all the setups.
  • I only used videos from when my cars had the 6 speed transmissions. The 5 speed gearing can skew things a bit depending on what speed range you choose and how many shifts are needed.

50-110MPH | 2nd/3rd/4th Gear | 6MT Long Gears

5.78s | 2011 WRX | Precision 6266 | 30psi | 2nd/3rd/4th Gear

6.10s | 2002 WRX | Kinugawa 60-1 | 30psi | 2nd/3rd/4th Gear

6.53s | 2011 WRX | Blouch 20G XTR | 28psi | 4th Gear ONLY

7.37s | 2002 WRX | SteamSpeed STX71| 27psi | 2nd/3rd/4th Gear


Another quick video. Brake boost 2nd gear and pulled all the way through the top of 4th.


I did some more work getting the reverse flow FMIC piping to work today. I had tried it previously just by switching the top two pipes that come with the 02-07 TurboXS FMIC kit. The pipes all fit together, but the passenger side sat too high and touched the hood. This caused the pipe to pop out under boost so I had to switch back.

Luckily I found someone locally that was willing to donate the two spare pipes that come with the FMS/TurboXS FMIC kit for the 08-14. He has a WRX, so I got the STI version pipes (for the STI flange turbo, and STI intake manifold). These pipes are both longer than the 02-07 pipes so I cut them down to fit.

The driver side works perfectly. I did have to sand off the powdercoating to get the TurboXS BOV to fit, but I am glad that I at least got it on. On the 02-07 kit I sanded a LOT and it still wouldn't fit so I had to use a hose and clamps. The passenger side pipes don't really line up, even after cutting, so I ordered a 45 deg coupler. It should arrive later this week or next week.

Additionally I had been having intermittent issue with the pipes popping out, even with the pipes in the standard configuration. This happened at least half a dozen times at the track and multiple other times on the street. To try to resolve this issue I bought a set of hump couplers.

The driver side mounted up fine. The hump coupler allows for a bit more movement and it also a hair longer. I managed to use a hump coupler and get the passenger side on as well. It's a bit kinked, but it does hold full boost. I will still be putting the 45 deg coupler on when I get it. I will also be putting hump couplers on at least the intercooler core endtanks. Maybe on the other two joints as well.

Here are some photos.

In progress:



More details:


I did some weighing of my WRX and RS hoods last night:

  • RS (flat, steel, no insulation): 37.0lbs
  • WRX (scoop, no splitter, insulation): 19.5lbs
  • WRX (scoop, no splitter, no insulation): 18.5lbs
  • WRX (no scoop, no splitter, no insulation): 17.0lbs

WRX hood is back on to save ~20lbs.

Quick shot with some new wheels!

I hosed off the wheels.


Here are a few more photos. This was before I washed the wheels so they're pretty filthy. I'll have to take some new shots sometime.

2002 Silver Bugeye WRX Sedan
2004 Silver STI BBS Wheels
235/45R17 Federal 595 RS-R Tires


I did a little more work on the car tonight.

45° coupler arrived and was installed. I had to trim another ~1.5" off the red pipe on the turbo side. The 45° coupler was extra long so it was fairly easy to get the length to something that would work. With this coupler the reverse flow setup seems like it will work perfectly.

I have noticed that since I switched the piping setup, my boost (measured at the intake manifold) is a couple PSI lower. I'm assuming that is because the air going into the manifold is colder and more dense, while the air pressure coming out of the compressor (and controlling the wastegate) is unchanged. At least I hope so... Or maybe it's just the weather? Haha.

I also swapped out the intake for something a little less beat up. The old one was just looking pretty worn out. I got a new filterand used the short intake tube that comes with the TurboXS FMIC kit. It looks a bit better with a newer filter instead of the old worn out one.

And what's this...

I also installed a set of Agency Power Equal Length headers. They are wrapped with DEI Titanium wrap. I got them used and they came fully wrapped, but a couple spots were tearing (around the slip joints). I also got about 20ft of spare wrap so I touched up the spots that had issues. It came out looking great.

Install went smoothly. No fitment issues and no leaks. The old header-to-head and header-to-uppipe gaskets looked like they had been sealing well. The sound changed considerably (as with any EL header). Much quieter. Haven't tuned it yet so I don't know if it increased power at all.

I also removed the front sway bar while I was under there. One of the endlinks broke (with quite a loud pop) the other day when backing out of my driveway. I just removed it completely since it wasn't connected anyways. Ended up having to cut one of them off.


Here are a couple more shots of my 2002 WRX Bugeye with the 2004 STI BBS wheels and WRX hood.


I determined my ID 2000 injectors were installed (by me) with the wrong gaskets. I bought them used and they didn't come with the right ones, so I just used an OEM gasket on the bottom and nothing else. After a little research I found that it needs two gaskets on the bottom and one addition one on the top. I ordered them from ID and they came today so I installed them a little bit ago. Here is a photo.

Left is correct and right is how I had them (incorrect). I noticed it because I had some occasional leaks at idle/rest and then I checked and found that the injectors could move up and down considerably (when the rail was bolted down). With all of the correct gaskets in place the injectors can still rotate, but there is no up and down movement. This should help ensure a good seal on both the top (fuel) and bottom (boost) of the injector.


I bought a cheap ELM Bluetooth adapter in an attempt to run the Torque app on my Bugeye. It wouldn't log live data and I spent the day yesterday trying to figure it out. I eventually have come to the conlusion that it is due to the Carberry ECU ROM. The hardware and app works perfectly on my 2012 Forester. A few others with Carberry have noted the same thing. So far I don't know of any workaround.


Resolved: Carberry ECU ROM doesn't have the same PID's as normal, so it connects, but won't read the realtime data.

The ELM Bluetooth adapter and Torque app work perfectly on my Forester.

I thought my boost gauge was broken (ProSport EVO). It was ready low (vs. the ECU sensor) for a while and then it just stopped reading at all. Just showing 0 all the time.

I figured it was a dead sender, but last night I found that the inline filter was broken completely in half! Big boost leak there! Didn't notice because I'm on speed density.

I replaced it with a straight fitting and now the gauge is working perfectly. Turned the MBC down a little because boost went up a bit now that the leak source has been fixed.

Here's a quick speedo video with the EL header installed:


Weight reduction since the last time at the track:

Removed all speakers: 5lbs
Swapped to WRX hood: 20lbs
Swapped to 04 STI wheels: 21lbs
Swapped to EL header: 10lbs
Removed front sway bar: 7lbs
Removed rear sway bar: 10lbs
Removed rear bumper beam: 30lbs
Removed scissor jack and tools: 6lbs
Removed trunk liners: 3lbs
Total weight saved: 112lbs

Weights are based on what I could find online. I didn't actually weigh anything myself...

I did a few last minute things last night. Swapped the front right strut (from wagon to sedan). Front left was already sedan so the mismatch was making the camber way off between sides. Then I removed the rear sway bar.

Later in the evening I removed the rear bumper beam. It was a huge pain. I broke all the plastic clips and half of the bolts. Ended up having to cut them off. Tight space so I cut the bolt heads into 1/4's and then snapped them off.

After all that I noticed a transmission fluid smell. Look under and find a huge puddle. Apparently I pulled the axle out of the transmission while swapping the strut and then it leaked a bunch out. I put the axle back in, then did a full drain and fill on the tranny.

Looking forward to the track this weekend. I am hoping all goes well and I can put down a better time than last time!

This is what is posted on Cars 101:

  • 2002 WRX Sedan 5MT: 3085lbs
  • 2004 WRX Sedan 5MT: 3085lbs
  • 2004 STI Sedan 6MT: 3263lbs

So if we'd assume the STI weight is basically what my car is (GD chassis with 2.5L and 6MT) and I weigh in at 29XXlbs, then that would say I've pulled out 200-300lbs total. I had many other things pulled out prior to going to the track before:

  • Spare tire
  • Trunk floor
  • AC compressor
  • AC condenser
  • Front bumper beam
  • Front U brace
  • Undertray
  • Fender liners
  • Fog lights
  • Lightweight battery
  • Radio
  • Aftermarket uppipe
  • Aftermarket downpipe
  • Etc...


Two broken axles and one 10 second pass.

Full details on the runs from Proving Grounds:

Event: 1/4 Mile at MAPerformance Proving Grounds 2014.2
Location: MN
Ambient Temp: 70F
Elevation: ~1200ft
Weather: Sunny and Clear
Tires: 235/45R17 Federal 595 RS-R Tires on 2004 STI BBS Wheels

Car: 2002 WRX Sedan
Tuner: Nuke @ NF Performance
Transmission: 2012 STI 6 Speed
1/4 Mile ET: 10.99s
1/4 Mile Trap: 126.0mph
60': 1.67s
Target Boost: 30psi
Target AFR: 11's
Fuel: E85

10.99s @ 126mph with 1.67s 60' (street tires)

I drove the car ~2 hours up to BIR on Friday and made my first pass in the afternoon/evening. I was launching at around 5,500rpm's and only building a few psi of boost off the line (fuel cut launch control), but it was still enough to spin the tires hard and I broke an axle on the very first launch (driver rear). Spent an hour or so swapping in another OEM WRX axle.

I did a few passes with no launch and was trapping around 126mph consistently. It did mid-11's even with a ~2sec 60' time. I did another pass with launch control and it did a 1.6s 60' but I missed third gear. On the next launch it had a little hop, but it did another 1.6s 60' and I made a pretty clean pass which resulted in the 10.99s slip.

On the 10 second pass I shifted the car into 5th to make it through the traps. I had been going through in 4th for my earlier passes but the car didn't feel like it was pulling quite as hard up near 8,000rpm's so I decided to shift instead. It was almost time for the track to shut down at that point but I decided to do one more pass. Spun hard and broke the passenger rear axle.

I swapped the axle (I had 4 spares with), but then I decided not to run drag on Saturday and Sunday. It cost more money and I was tired of changing axles. On Sunday I did roll racing. I was neck and neck with several other cars in the same power range and I pulled on a stock GTR. Then I drove the car back home. Overall a great weekend and I'm happy to be in the 10's!


Here's a video of the 10.9 sec pass:

2002 WRX vs Nissan GTR | 40-130 MPH Roll Race


Here's a video of some of the other roll races I did:

Found a video from the other perspective of the 6266 BMW M3 race:


Put on a KillerB header last night!

Unfortunately the custom EWG setup wouldn't clear my downpipe so we had to improvise an EWG block off plate. I'll probably have to pick up a different downpipe to make it fit.


Quick speedo video with the KillerB header that I put on over the weekend.

50-100mph time on this is just under 4.3 seconds. I was in the 4.6 to 4.7s range prior.

*Stock photo from RSD. Mine is actually a standard one with a custom EWG flange and dump.

Just for fun I'll be going on the local Mustang Dyno at RS Motors this weekend. Any guesses what I'll make?

Full list of updates from last week/weekend:

  • 9/17 (Wed): Installed KillerB Header and uppipe w/custom EWG setup. EWG wouldn't clear downpipe so a DIY EWG block off plate was installed. Car was driven with with care taken not to overboost.
  • 9/18 (Thurs): Swapped downpipe for an HKS flat plate downpipe. Very easy to work on, easy access to bolts. Fits perfectly with EWG setup. Cheap. Highly recommended for anyone with an EWG (bellmouth or divorced is not needed).
  • 9/19 (Fri): Wired in a serial cable for logging my AEM wideband. Tuned with Nuke. Smoothed out AFR's. Car is still hesitating in the 3,500-4,000 rpm range. This has been an ongoing issue for months. Have tried many things (plugs, coilpacks, exhaust leaks, injectors, fuel filter, etc, etc), but nothing has worked so far.
  • 9/20 (Sat): Shot a wedding. Didn't work on car
  • 9/21 (Sun): Swapped fuel rails. Car had 08 STI stock rails installed and the GR STI's have a known "stumble" issue. Put the stock 02 WRX rails back on. This smoothed out a small fueling annomoly in the 2,500 rpm range (normal stumble range), but the bigger hesitation close to 4,000 rpm was unchanged.
  • 9/22 (Mon): Actually late Sunday night, but it was well after midnight at this point. Swapped the cam position sensor and the hesitation is completely gone. My car uses the Cosworth cam sensor bracket, so I'm not sure if it was a bad sensor or just bad placement with the bracket (known issue). I'll keep an eye on it in the future and shim it if necessary.


A couple new things from last night.

COBB AccessPort V3

AccessPort installed and OEM 04 Tail Lights

Daytime Shot of the 04 Tail Lights

EDIT: Before and After


I had my car dyno'd at the MNSubaru 10 Year Anniversary Meet and Dyno Day held at RS Motors on Saturday.

The car made 457WHP/ 422WTQ on a Mustang Dyno (for reference the car ran 10.9s @ 126mph the last time at the track).

Here's a larger version of the plot:

RS was nice enough to log the pulls on my AccessPort, so here's a Virtual Dyno comparison just for fun.

I have the weight set to 3500lbs and the calibration set to "Mustang" and the numbers are pretty close.

Change the calibration to "Dynojet" (what I normally use) and the numbers go to 525WHP.

Compare that to my most recent road log and it reads 525WHP with the weight set to 3300lbs.

Typically I've just been using the default 07 STI profile (same chassis and gearing as my car, but higher weight) and that makes it read 561WHP.

No real point to all this, other than to show that dyno numbers (especially Virtual Dyno) can be manipulated considerably. But if you do have the correct inputs, the numbers can be very close and the curves look quite similar to on an actual dyno.

The only thing I think I really need to take away from this is that the 3300lbs (3100lb car + 200lb driver) is likely going to be better than the 3550lb (3350lb car + 200lb driver) that I had been using in the past.

The car was under 3000lbs on the scale at the track but that was with floor mats out, no tools, glove box and center console cleared out, no Recaro baby seat, etc. Around 3100lbs on the street is probably pretty close.

Quick little comparison of the powerband on some different Subaru turbo setups.

All of these were cars run on the same Mustang dyno and the same day. Manually plotted in Excel.

457WHP - 422WTQ - 2002 - Subaru - WRX - E85 - 27.9PSI - 60-1 - 2.5L - 6MT, FMIC, EWG, etc.
343WHP - 360WTQ - 2008 - Subaru - WRX - E85 - 23.5PSI - 68HTA - 2.5L - FMIC, EWG, etc.
256WHP - 257WTQ - 2015 - Subaru - STI - Pump - 15.5PSI - Stock - 2.5L - Stock
204WHP - 192WTQ - 2002 - Subaru - WRX - Pump - 13.9PSI - TD04 - 2.0L - Stage 2


New parking ramp by my house.

Installed AEM 3.5 Bar MAP Sensor:


Dyno Video:


Cold weather in MN convinced me to put my winter setup (stock wheels with Blizzak's) back onto my 2.5 RS.


It's pretty close to freezing in MN lately. Lows are in the 30's. Car can spin the snow tires a bit, but not too bad. From certain angles it does look a lot like a stock 2.5RS


Here's a better shot with a real camera.


Small car or big turbo?

Canon 5D Mark III
Canon 24-105mm at 50mm
ISO100, f/16, 1/100th
Dual 400W Strobes through Softboxes

Here are some more photos of my new toy.


The 11 WRX wheels to 04 STI BBS saved weight but the tire was the same. It felt very much the same to me but possibly a hair quicker. I did some other weight savings at the same time thoug .

The snow tires are 205/60R16 so they are actually taller. They're also narrower and way softer. The setup should be a couple pounds lighter per corner according to my online research.

They are very squishy and walk all over when I get on it. They also break loose way more easily . I did do a 50-100 run and it showed being faster but that could have to do with the colder weather making more power.


Went to the track again yesterday.

Originally Posted by xluben Event: 1/4 Mile at Rock Falls Raceway
Location: WI
Ambient Temp: 50F
Elevation: 845ft
Weather: Sunny and Clear
Tires: 205/60R16 Blizzak WS70 Tires on 2002 WRX Wheels

Car: 2002 WRX Sedan
Tuner: Nuke @ NF Performance
Transmission: 2012 STI 6 Speed
1/4 Mile ET: 10.98s
1/4 Mile Trap: 127.9mph
60': 1.74s
Target Boost: 30psi
Target AFR: 11's
Fuel: E85

10.98s @ 127.9mph with 1.74s 60' (snow tires)

I ran 10.99 in this car at BIR last month, but I decided to take it out again yesterday. The changes since the last passes were: addition of KillerB header setup, changed to COBB AP, swapped in a welded rear diff, put the RS flat hood back on, and put on the stock wheels with winter tires (daily driven street car and it's been getting below freezing at night).

I did a few shakedown passes with no launch just to see what it would trap. It was right around 128mph. Up from 126mph the last time, so I decided to give it a go. Ran 10.98 at 127.9 and 11.18 at 128.0 and then got the boot. 60' times were in the 1.7s range. Not as good as the 1.6's I was getting on the summer tires, but not terrible. Snow tireswere a lot less stable down the track too.

Here's a video of an 11.1 and 10.9 sec pass:


Old news to most here, but this is a quick video on how much 60 foot time (launch) can affect ET and trap:

Run 1:
60': 2.48
1/4: 12.12
MPH: 127.92

Run 2:
60': 1.74
1/4: 10.98
MPH: 127.92

First one is no launch and then floor it. Second one is a launch at 5750rpm's.

First is a 1/4 in 12.1s and the second is 10.9s. Trap speed is identical on both runs.


Plotted out two logs I had from the track. Launch vs. No Launch.

Trap speed was very similar for both, but the no launch just gets off the line much later/slower.

Also, shifted 5th the "no launch" pass, but it didn't have a large effect either way.


No Launch:


I took some photos last night. Showing what's under the hood and behind the bumper before changes happen.

I currently have the following items listed for sale locally: turbo, FMIC, BOV, inlet, intake, and fuel pump.

  • Canon 5D3
  • Canon 135 f/2 w/CPL
  • ISO400, f/2.0, 1/40s
  • Tripod mounted
  • LED overhead lighting


Pulled the header off tonight. time for some custom work to make this other turbo fit onto my car...

Also, since I'm moving onto a new setup, I have some things to put up for sale. These are all stock location turbo items that should work well with any stock location setup (FMIC kit is 02-07 specific, but the rest should work on other models as well).

These parts are all on my 2002 WRX. It has run 10.9 @ 128mph and made 457WHP on the Mustang Dyno at RS Motors. Everything is in great working condition with no issues. It is all currently still on my car. I can take additional photos if needed, and I should be able to pull any parts within a few days for a serious buyer.

Please let me know if you have any questions. Open to offers on any item, but I'm not in a huge rush to sell.

FS: Kinugawa TD06H 60-1 Turbo
Details: Installed in August. Billet wheel. 2.4" inlet. Includes GrimmSpeed IWG block off (no IWG actuator).
Price: $850 + Shipping

FS: TurboXS Style FMIC
Details: Installed in June. Includes custom pipes and couplers to run reverse flow (moves cold air away from turbo).
Price: $450 + Shipping

Details: Installed in June. Great condition. Can bolt directly onto FMIC.
Price: $120 + Shipping

FS: AMR Hard Inlet
Details: Purchased used. Installed in June. Includes coupler for stock size turbo inlet.
Price: $280 + Shipping

FS: Short Ram Intake
Details: Installed in August. 3" intake pipe.
Price: $60 + Shipping

FS: Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
Details: Installed in June.
Price: $70 + Shipping

Current Engine Bay:

Photo taken prior to installation.

Photo taken prior to installation.

Photo taken prior to installation.

Walbro on the left. Photo taken prior to installation.


Took some updated photos and made a thread in the FS section. Send me a PM if interested!



Turbo blanket arrived yesterday. PTP Lava. The best!


I had Fobia modify my KillerB header, and I just got it back last night. Here are some pictures.


Full Kit:

Downpipe and EWG Dumps:



Wastegate Installed:


Mock up test fit of the new kit.


Most of the oiling components should be arriving today. Still need FMIC as well. Took a few more mock up pics.

Likely have to cut ~6" off the exhaust dump to get it to sit flush with the side of the bumper.

Will have to extend this mounting tab a little to reduce stress on the flex before final install.

Good clearance around the oil pan and filter. Wastegate should be easy to access.

Some more parts.


Treadstone FMIC came in. It's huge! It's going to be a bit of work to make it fit with the turbo.

Also got a 48" 4AN line for oil supply to the turbo.


Thanks! Taking things slow right now. It's 0°F in MN so there's no rush and not much motivation to work out in a cold garage.

I did a mock up install of the FMIC. Had to trim a couple tabs off just to get it mounted. I'll likely have to do a bit more trimming before the final install.

Unfortunately the turbo to FMIC didn't line up as perfectly as I'd hoped. I can't install both at the same time due to interference but I did some Photoshop overlays.

I will probably need to get a photo from directly underneath to confirm, but this is what I'm thinking so far. Chop off the end of the compressor outlet, and weld an elbow on.

Also will have to cut down the FMIC end tank inlet an inch or two. Then hopefully it will just be a straight or possibly 45° coupler to the intercooler. Any other thoughts?


New arrival last night:


Cut off some of the FMIC end tank and got it mounted at the same time as the turbo.

Also, had Fobia extend the header by 1/2" and extend the mounting tab a little bit.

Before / After

You've seen a lot of setups like that? One a Subaru or a different chassis? To mount it upside down I would have to cut out a lot of the frame (including where the core currently mounts to). And even after that it would still definitely NOT be a straight shot. It would need at approx a 90° bend off the turbo, and it would still hit the compressor housing just like it does now.

Here's a shot from the side that kind of shows the depth difference.

To really clean things up it would be best to mount the turbo directly to the end tank. Unfortunately that would require more frame cutting a some funky bends in the header. This car's setup looks great, but the turbo is much longer than mine. It is actually the same header, but the extra long turbo allows the compressor to sit much further forward and bolt right onto the end tank.



I got a few garage/car related items as gifts this year.

Wall Mount Tire Rack
Battery Charger
Snap On Universal Joint Sockets

I wanted to get one of the tire racks to see how I liked them. They seem nice for the price and the folding feature is great. I'll be buying a couple more soon.

The sockets are my first non-Harbor Freight tools. They cost about as much as the 4 foot wide tool chest. Haha. Very nice quality. Sure to be super useful too.


I was intrigued by "professional" flex head wrench and also noticed that all the of the ratchets at Harbor Freight are currently on sale. So, when I went out to pick up some things I stopped by and picked up the ratchet as well. Along with a 25% off coupon it was only $15. Here are some photos.

I am also very interested in picking up the longer one of the same style. I think I would probably end up using that one even more, due to the increased leverage. Unfortunately that one was out of stock. I will try to stop in next week to see if they get any before the sale ends.

Here is the standard length one next to my previous workhorse (flex head) wrench. That one is also from Harbor Freight. It's a much larger head with a different pivoting design. The old one is slightly shorter overall. I think the slim head on the new one will come in handy in many situations.

The build quality on both seems very good, but the new one does seem very much "professional" in fit and finish. It looks very much like the Snap On that it is modeled after. Compared to the other flex head that I have, I like the directional switch better on the new one. I could never seem to remember which way was which on the old one.

And here's a comparison of the ratchets I've progressed through over the last few years:

Craftsman Quick Release Teardrop http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-3...p-00944808000P
Pittsburgh Quick Release http://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-d...het-69348.html
Pittsburgh Composite Quick Release http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eig...het-66313.html
Pittsburgh Quick Release Swivel Head http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eig...het-96782.html
Pittsburgh Professional Flex Head http://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-d...het-62321.html

Here's a little comparison table.

I threw in the Snap On wrench that is similar to the newest flex head wrench I got. The new one I got looks favorable compared to all of them except that it doesn't have a quick release. I think this helps to keep the head smaller. I don't think I'll end up missing it, but I'll have to wait and see.

Here are a couple more pictures:

I had the Craftsman one from a larger tool kit that I got quite a few years ago. It did alright when I started wrenching on my WRX, but it is very short and the handle is very uncomfortable. Right now the teeth are binding badly. I am not sure when that started.

Maybe a year into the ownership of my 2011 WRX I got the first two Pittsburgh ones. I used the metal one basically as a replacement for the Craftsman one. It had a few more teeth and a little more round handle, but I eventually found that the plastic one was plenty strong, had way more teeth, and a far more comfortable handle.

But it wasn't too long after that I got the flex head. That was a huge game changer for me. So many nuts/bolts that were previously inaccessible to a ratchet were now easy to reach. I have been using this wrench for pretty much all of my 3/8" drive ratcheting needs for at least a couple years now. It's still working great too.

The new flex head ratchet is much slimmer head profile and a slightly longer handle. I think it will be a good option, and likely become my go-to due to the smaller head. The longer version of the same may be favorable as long as the extra length isn't a hindrance in too many situations.

The last picture also has the 3/8" drive Craftsman impact. It's fairly cheap (under $100 when on sale), and it doesn't have huge torque, but it can be a real time saver wherever there is space to use it. The flex head ratchets still get a lot of use, but if there's space the impact is a lot quicker and easier.


After a few revisions the FMIC end tank is redone. Chopped off the end completely and then Fobia welded on a flat plate. Off of that it is a 2.5" OD, 90° bend. Then it's just a 90° coupler onto the turbo.

It's a tight fit, and kind of a trick to get on, but I think it will work. There's not a lot of material for the coupler to grab onto, but I hope it is enough. It ended up looking pretty clean and simple, IMO.

Coupler installed:

Big enough intercooler?

Combo Pic:


Spent a couple hours last night cutting up the bumper to fit the bigger core and the new piping. It is pretty close now but it will need a little more trimming. I also mounted the rest of the intercooler piping.


Here's the dyno plot:

Running no AVCS. KillerB header. EWG setup. 268 cams. Came on hard between 4,000 and 4,500rpms. Below that it was pretty weak. May be considered laggy to some, but it was still over a 3k powerband with what I revved it to.

Hard to compare to that FP Black when they don't publish any compressor maps for it. Overall I think that seems like a good turbo though. I just went with this one because it was the biggest that could be had with the stock size inlet. Much easier install.


Fuel lines and fittings arrived yesterday.

I am getting some rails soon. I already have the TurboSmart FPR.

Priced out the oil return lines/fittings. I'll pick them up soon.

I believe this is where I'll be mounting the oil pump. Just need to drill a few more holes.

I bought some lines and fittings today. 

With the -10 AN side facing upwards it looks like it's VERY close on hood clearance. I may swap it around and see how well it fits.

EDIT: I did swap the top of the pump around so the -8 AN input is on top and that fitting ends up saving around 5/8" of height vs. the -10 AN on top. I think it should be enough to clear the hood.


I got the rails to go along with the lines and fittings today. They are made by IAG. Very simple and sleek design, but well made. Now I have to pull the intake manifold back off and get them installed and lines routed.

Last night I did a little more work in the garage. Spent a couple hours cleaning up the mess I had made. All the boxes of partswere just piled up on my bench and tool chest. I bought 4 more Home Depot totes and packed things away and then cut up all the cardboard boxes for recycling.

While I was doing that I also installed a new bench vice that my brother got me for my upcoming birthday. My old one was from Harbor Freight and the threads completely stripped out. This one is from Amazon. I hope it holds up a little better than the Harbor Freight one.

After that I did a few small things on the car. First I installed and tightened the header bolts. I used the Snap On swivel sockets that my other brother got me for Christmas. The inner two bolts used to be near impossible to tighten properly. A shallow socket wasn't deep enough due to the stud and a deep socket with swivel was too long and hit the header.

I usually ended up trying to snug it down with a stubby open ended wrench. The swivel sockets made it super easy. They're shallow sockets, but they have an indent in the middle that the stud sits into and allows the socket to engage the nut. Totally worth it to have this tool for special instances like this (tranny bolts should also be similar).

While I was under there I also installed the O2 sensor and the EWG. The EWG points straight down and the dump is just a short 90° bend the shoots the vented exhaust straight backwards. This position makes it much easier to access than the normal EWG position on stock location setups.

Then I drilled the strut tower for the oil scavenge pump mounting holes. I used a stepped drill bit and it went through easily. Then I just put in a bolt from the back and used a nut on the engine bay side. The pump includes rubber grommets to dampen vibration.

The last thing I did was to pull the banjo bolt from the OEM turbo oil feed on the back of the head and then cut down a random bolt I had and plugged that hole. I need to buy some more hardware so I can pull oil for the turbo from the front of the head (AVCS) to reduce the length of the oil feed line.


Velocity stack arrived:

Also picked up my (hopefully) last two fittings (-10 to -10 adapter and a 120° -8 AN fitting):


I picked up a -12 AN line and fitting for the oil return. It makes -8 AN look tiny. Haha.

Installed with just a bench vice and adjustable wrench so they're not perfect. Good enough for me though.

Last night I finished hooking up everything to the sump and the boost controller/EWG. I also cut a hole in the bumper for the exhaust dump. 


More updates:

Unicorn fitting arrived. 3/8" NPT to -12 AN.

I made sure to keep them near the compressor housing instead of the turbine or center section. I had the main electrical harness and some vacuum lines sitting on the sompressor housing on my last rotated setup and they were fine, so I hope this will be OK. I'll also have a turbo blanket on the turbo. If I'm way off base, let me know.

More side angle showing the hoses next to the compressor housing:

Here's another shot that's even more from the side to show how I tried to keep the hoses away from the heat as much as I could.

You can also see the blanket installed on the turbo and that I cut down the downpipe/exhaust dump.

I hacked it off with my angle grinder and then Fobia cleaned it up and made it pretty with his belt sander.


Here's a shot with the chopped off exhaust dump. Trying on various intake options.


The other day I swapped the cap on my TurboSmart FPR from blue to black.

Started with this (cap screws already loosened):

Going to be swapping on this black cap:

Everything all taken apart:

Here it is with the black cap and dual inputs (for parallel fuel rails):

And here is with a single input (for series fuel rails):

Blue cap for sale if anyone is interested!


Over the weekend I worked on getting the fuel rails and lines setup. The IAG lines do not have the SS braided layer under the nylon braid so it was very easy to cut and get setup with the fittings. I set the rails up for series fueling. They are arranged 4-2-3-1. This is the opposite of the firing order. There is a LOT of debate on fuel line routing but Dom at Maxwell Power has some good points for going with the opposite of the firing order.


I also pulled off the TGV housings (I have the plastic ones) and cleaned them up, as well as cleaning the injectors and replaced the top o-rings. I assembled the TGV's, rails, and injectors. It is a great benefit of aftermarket lines/rails that they're not tied to the intake manifold at all so they can be assembled off the car and then installed.

I picked up this adjustable wrench from Harbor Freight. It is cheap, but much better quality than the other cheap adjustable wrenches I have been using. Adjustment is very smooth and the jaws are very thin (even compared to the AN fitting specific wrenches). The best thing is that it comes with plastic covers for the jaws so it won't mar the fittings. The covers aren't a perfect fit, so you can't put a ton of torque on with them, but so far so good.



I did some work last night. I re-did the crankcase vent lines and then finished installed the TGV's, fuel rails, fuel lines, and intakemanifold. I also hooked up the turbo oil feed to the AVCS banjo. The little Mr. Heater was able to get it (barely) above freezing in my garage.

It is getting really close. I hit two minor hiccups. 

First is that I was shipped the wrong scavenge pump and I am having a hard time trying to return it because it has been so long. Hopefully I can get that figured out soon and then order the correct one. Then once I get that I need to mount it and do the wiring.

Second is that I need a new radiator. Mine was always slightly leaking so I am going to order a new one and then I need to install that. One other thing I've been putting off is hardwiring the fuel pump. After that it's just filling/burping coolant and filling/priming oil.

Here's my basic list:

  • Install Radiator
  • Install Oil Scavenge Pump
  • Wire Oil Scavenge Pump
  • Wire Fuel Pump
  • Fill and Burp Coolant
  • Fill and Prime Oil

It's not a whole lot of work left but it will probably still be a couple weeks at least due to waiting for parts to arrive. I am hoping to do some of the wiring while I am waiting for parts so that it will all be quick drop in's once things arrive.

I do have a 7500W ceiling mount electric heater, but it's still sitting in the box because I don't have 220V in my garage. I already bought a breaker box and a few other items, but I haven't had a chance to do any actual work (I know very little about home electrical).


I have been looking into that one and it does look great. Do you have the Street version or the Competition version? My setup is very, very simple but it functions much like the Competition version from IAG. Here is a photo:

All I'm doing is T'ing both of the front vent ports on the valve covers into the large vent port on the back of the block. Then this is all T'd into a vent line that runs down along the trabsmission and ventd under the car (just like IAG).

The PCV port on the intake manifold it plugged and there is no routing back to the intake (just like IAG). My setup does not catch any oil or route it back into the pan in any way. The oil vapor is simply vented.

Very effective for keeping oil out of the intake tract. Not so friendly to mother nature but that's the trade off. My setup costs just a few dollars. Two 1/2" T fittings and some 1/2" fuel line is all you need.

It can get fairly cold around here too. We just had several days where it never got above 0°F at all. I'm not driving this car though. I ran a setup like this on my 2011 as well and I did drive that in the winter and I never had issues.

On this car I do have a 2012 STI motor so it's all much the same as my 2011 was. That OEM hose adapter was swapped out on both my setups for a straight hose going into a T fitting. Nothing back to the inlet or intake manifold. The PCV port on the intakeanifold is plugged.

On this car I actually did try using small port on the OEM fitting as the vent. It didn't flow nearly enough and the car smoked on decel. Once I swapped that to a 1/2" vent it went away completely.

Oil consumption was never too crazy in my 2011. I never had to add anything between changes. This car I change it frequently for the miles I drive so it's never enough to notice. I only did 3000-4000 miles last summer and changed the oil half a dozen time. Usually before and after going to the track.

I do like the look and design of the IAG but for this car I don't think I need it. If I were going to get one though it would be the IAG for sure. I just got their fuel rails and the quality is great.


Picked up a radiator because mine was leaking. Just arrived today.

This will be swapped for OEM:


Last night I did some wiring for the fuel pump and oil scavenge pump. Both are going to be hardwired with relays. I did as much of the soldering as I could do outside the car. The rest will have to be done in the car.

Any suggestions on a fuse I can tap into to get a 12V signal on the ACC key position from inside the engine bay? I was thinking the rear defrost fuse would work, but my battery is dead so I couldn't check it.


Earlier this week I attempted to charge my Odyssey slim battery with a new charger I got for Christmas. Something didn't go right and the battery was bulging and very hot when I got back. The charger was set to trickle mode, but it appears it didn't stop charging when it should have. I ended up returning the charger for a better (smarter) one, and bought a new battery.

Bad vs. New

New Charger

Digital readout is much more useful than the analog gauge on the other charger.

New battery and new charger together.

Same model I had before.

Today I got the final piece of the puzzle that I need. TurboWerx Exa-Pump Mini. This is a gear driven pump and appears to be of much higher quality than the Mocal water pump that I had before. I am hoping to get it mounted and wired tonight or later this weekend.


My brother and I spent about 3-4 hours working on things last night. Got the oil pump mounted and soldered the wire leads onto the relay that I already had mostly set up. Then I soldered all the connections for the fuel pump relay. I put the battery in place and then put fuses into the power wires for the oil and fuel pump.

The oil pump came on immediately. The fuse I had tapped into was providing signal even with the car off apparently. Poked around and tried every fuse in the engine bay and they are all "hot" with the car off. Most are just a small voltage but they're enough to start the pump.

The only one that was truly off was the headlight fuse, but it doesn't show 12V until the car is on and the headlights are turned on. Not what I want. We are still seeing if there are any wires I could tap into in the engine bay, otherwise we will have to pull it into the cabin and tap into the wires that all the gauges are connected to.

After that I tried priming it to check the fuel pump. The fuel pump primed just fine. Injectors were still leaking a little so I pulled them all out and added a bumper and put them all back in. They all seem to seal up fine now.

Somewhere in this process I happened to try priming it with the fuel pump power wire fuse pulled out. It still primed. Something wasn't right. I unplugged the relay completely and it still primed! Doing some more research I found that on the 02 WRX the black/yellow wire is for the fuel sensor. The guide I was using was on an STI and black/yellow is pump power. I believe I have found the correct schematic for my car and the black/red is power.

So tonight I hope to rewire the fuel pump and then run the oil pump wire into the cabin. I believe that is all that is left before starting it up and burping the coolant.

It's alive! I fixed the fuel pump wiring this afternoon. That's working as expected now. Unfortunately I think I fried the fuel level sensor (or possibly fuel temp sensor) when I had the relay wired up incorrectly. The dash just shows no fuel all the time now. For the oil pump my brother realized that we have 12V ACC power running to the boost gauge sender in the engine bay already, so I just spliced into that wire for the oil pump relay signal.

Once all that was done we primed the turbo with oil, fired it up, and then burped the coolant. Took it around the block and it seems to be running well. There was a little oil in the exhaust dump after the initial startup but I think it might have been from all the cranking to prime the turbo. I've done a few restarts since then and I don't see any clouds of smoke. I'll be monitoring it to see if any more oil shows up in the exhaust.

The car still needs a tune but I did take it to the parking ramp a few blocks away for some rolling shots.

Setup Shot:

Setup Shot:

Air Filter:

Velocity Stack:

Engine Bay:


Update from last night.

Filled it up with E85. I think it was $1.79 or so. Turns out my fuel level sensor wasn't ruined, I just had really low fuel in the tank. Once I filled it up it's back to normal. Good to get a full tank of fresh fuel into the car. I'm right around 190k on the odometer. The car is surprisingly quiet for a <1ft long exhaust. Sounds similar to a GD with no axleback or even a big coffee can exhaust.

We went and did some tuning and got going pretty well. It's siting a little over 30psi right now. Seems to be making similar power to what my 2011 WRX with 6266 made. I want to do a few more pulls before posting anything though. Powerband looks very similar to the 60-1 setup I just took off the car, but the power is great everywhere.

After tuning there was coolant sprayed all over the engine bay. We found out that the alternator pulley had cut the upper radiator hose. I didn't cut it down when I installed the new radiator. NF had a set of Samco hoses in stock so we swapped the hoses and re-burped the system.

Car is pulling strong and even got the speed checked with some government certified equipment on the way home. -_-

This morning I took my daughter to daycare with it and then drove it into work


I took some photos last night.

And I did an exhaust video and grabbed this screenshot.

FogTurbo Bugeye | 2002 WRX | Exhaust Video | NF Performance


Here is a speedo video of a couple pulls. 1-2-3-4th and then 3-4th.

I took a look at the 50-100mph times. The pull with just 3rd and 4th appears a hair quicker in the video. The 1-2-3-4 had a couple fairly slow shifts that didn't help. According to the logs that I charted out below they are both in the 3.9 second range, but the video shows a little more of a difference. Overall they are both very close.

Pull #1 (All Gears): 4.0 sec
Pull #2 (3rd & 4th): 3.9 sec

Here are the plots. Both pulls are up to around 120mph and it's very even all the way. The first two plots are the pulls individually and the third plot is both of those on the same chart. For the fourth chart I went and pulled the log from the 10.9 @ 128mph run and plotted it against the first plot (1-2-3-4). The 6266 is about 2/3 of a second faster from 50-120mph.

1-2-3-4 Plot:

50-120mph Comparison (1-2-3-4 vs. 3-4):

50-120mph Comparison (6266 vs. 60-1):


I gave it a shot tonight. Did a few runs shifting around 7,000rpm's.

50-100mph (7k Shift Point):
Pull #1: 4.14 sec
Pull #2: 3.93 sec
Pull #3: 3.91 sec

First run I started the pull way too close to 50mph. Probably around 45mph with no brake boosting. The turbo wasn't fully spooled until about 1/2 second in so that hurt the time. Ended up being about 2/10th's slower than the other tries.

The other two runs were clean. One was shifted at 7,000 and the other at about 6,750. All the runs landed right back in the powerband after the shift and boost kept up as well as normal, so that wasn't an issue.

But the times ended up looking nearly identical to when I was shifting higher (around 7,700). About 3.9 seconds. I felt like I had pretty quick shifts for these runs (wearing flip flops like normal, haha).

Got gas afterwards. Blew through a tank this week. I've been driving it to work and back every day. Didn't get very good gasmileage, but I think the number of pulls I've done hasn't helped that...

I'm not sure. I was a little surprised it drops so much too. I thought the big torque hump may be wheelspin but I've had a similar curve on half a dozen pulls throughout the week. Other thought is that it could be my way to small filter killing the top end. It is only 2" long.

This is the worst part.

The original hope was to have the filter site behind the foglight cover. But this one doesn't fit anyways, so I should have just gotten something longer. I have looked into Treadstone, Vibrant, and AEM as well as larger offerings from K&N. I just looked at the filter area to try and decide if any will flow enough to be worth it.

I added yours to the list below. It only has a small amount more filter area than my stubby one. Mine is very short, but the diamter is large so that somewhat makes up for it.

I may also try this foam filter. I'm not sure how well it will flow though. It may end up being much worse than an actual filter. I'd prefer not to have something sticking way out of my bumper, but that may be the best option.



Any guesses on how all of these will compare?


Sorry, I don't walk on water. Unless it's a frozen lake, then I could walk on that...

Here are some more photos of the filters.


I tried on the intakes last night. Didn't get anywhere testing them though. 


New rig shot from tonight.


Here are the results from my intake filter testing.

I tested the following setups tonight:

The car is a 2002 WRX with a built 2.5L motor and 2012 STI 6MT. It is running a PTE 6266 Gen 1 in a fog light mounted location with an open exhaust dump out the fender. This is the same tune that I previously posted results for. It was a little colder tonight so both boost and power were slightly up from previous charts. The car is running a manual boostcontroller and the setting was not changed at all. It was simply swapping filters.

Here are the results in Virtual Dyno:

Everything was kept as consistent as possible between runs (ie. back to back runs, same night, same tune, exact same location, etc), but road logs can always have variation. Even with that being said, I think it's clear that the Turbo Guard SV just does not flow as well as a pleated filter. Boost is down significantly. Midrange power and torque is actually pretty good, but the top end is close to 10% lower. The subsequent charts on time and IDC back this up as well.

I think this is to be expected. The surface area is nearly an order of magnitude smaller than the others and the filtermedia is as dense (or possibly more dense) than the others. This filter really only makes sense when space is the #1 requirement, but you still want good protection. If you had a forward facing turbo that was directly behind your grill, or if I was dead set on running a fog light cover, then this would be the way to go (at the expense of top end power).

The other 3 filter options all performed fairly similarly. Boost was similar, and torque/power are within what I would consider to be the measurement variation of Virtual Dyno pulls. It does appear that the K&N might be flowing slightly worse, but it's really had to conclude that for sure. The same could be said for the extra torque with the largest filter. It's a bit higher, but not by a huge margin, and the top end is very similar to the others.

The other two comparisons I did were 3k-7.5k time and max IDC. The results from these runs back up the Virtual Dyno results. The Turbo Guard SV is the obvious outlier. The others are all close enough that I don't think I could conclude one to be better than the other with a high level of confidence. A few pulls on an actual dyno might be able to better sort this out, but for my uses I think I would be fine with any of them.

Plot of RPM vs time from 3k to 7.5k:

Bar chart of the 3k to 7.5k times:

Bar chart of max IDC for each option:

I am still looking forward to trying out the Turbo Guard Screen as well as the Treadstone velocity stack with open inlet. These are what I would consider running for at the track. I am hoping the open velocity stack will be a solid bump up from any of these filtered options that would be for street use. I will probably do this testing later on once I have more time.

The 04 STI BBS wheels are gone, and in their place is a set of black 17x9" +45 Enkei RPF1's with 255/40R17 Federal 595 RS-R's. Unfortunately I haven't been able to drive the car yet because the rear tires rub on the struts. I have ordered a set of 5mm spacers to help them clear.

The fronts look like they're poking a little, but it looks like camber is close to 0. If I dial in a degree or two of negative camber I think they should be fine. I think I may end up having to roll the rear once the spacers go on. Possibly the front too, but it might clear. I'm happy to be on a wider set of tires. Hopefully the weather warms up soon!


I did a few quick 50-100mph pulls tonight and the cam timing change seems like a decent improvement over the 3.9sec range that I had been running.

Pull #1: 3.65 sec
Pull #2: 3.74 sec
Pull #3: 3.67 sec

Here's a photo of the car from yesterday afternoon (stock wheels back on):


Put on 5mm universal spacers yesterday. The inside of the tire clears the strut by a few mm's now. The tires rub on the fenderson big bumps though, so I will definitely have to do a fender roll.


I picked up some eBay center caps ($30 vs. $100+ for the Enkei RPF1 version) as well as hubcentric adapter rings, spline drive lugs, and black aluminum valve stem covers. Here's a shot of the center caps. I'm happy with them. Similar build to the real Enkei ones that I've had before

I rolled the rear fenders last night. I didn't have time to do the fronts yet, so I'm still not driving on the RPF1's. I think with the roll they should clear OK, but I'm still waiting to find out. Right now I have RPF1's in the back and stock wheels in the front. Haha. Not driving it of course. Just waiting for me to have time to roll the front.

Over the weekend Fuji and I played with the cam timing a little bit more. Over the summer we switched the intake cam to be one tooth advanced to get some more mid range. Last week we put it back to normal and the top end bumped up a little (as well as shifted the powerband right). The top end was still dropping off hard though, so we moved the intake and exhaust cams 1 tooth more retarded.

After the most recent change the powerband shifted again to the right a few hundred RPM's. Peak numbers are about the same, but up at redline there are huge gains. The power doesn't drop off nearly as much. Compared to when I had the timing advanced it is close to 100WHP more at redline (even with boost slightly lower up top). The peak torque isn't as high but for drag use this new powerband should be better due to the top end power.

Drag Setup (15x7" +35 with 26x8.5" Slicks):


Working on the rear end with @istoptofly. I had a nut broken off in the frame rail so he cut the T-brace off and then cut a chunk out of the frame rail to get the nut out and do the repair. He'll have to rebuild that section and then we'll be putting in his less rusted T-brace (with upgraded bushings) as well as an r180 and DSS rear axles.


The bolt repair is completed and the new T-brace, r180, and DSS rear axles are installed.


Here's an updated video. Changes since the last speedo video:

  • Retarded Timing by 1 Tooth on Intake and Exhaust
  • Enkei RPF1 17x9" +45
  • Federal 595 RS-R 255/40R17
  • R180, DSS 800HP Rear Axles

50-100mph (2nd, 3rd, 4th): ~3.5 seconds

Doesn't quite make it to 130mph, but it looks like 60-130mph would be the in 6 second range.

Here it is plotted out against my 10.9 @ 128mph log from Rock Falls last year.


My brother and I went out to Rock Falls today. I drove the car there and ran on the street tire setup. The car was run in full street trim and 3/4 to 1/2 tank of gas.

There were long lines in the staging lanes so it was about half an hour between passes. I ended up making 5 passes. I wasn't hooking up well and kept putting down 1.7s 60' times and 10.4 ET in the 1/4.

My best pass ended up being a 10.3s @ 139mph. It did 110mph in the 1/8th mile. Other than spinning a lot in 1st and 2nd the car did great and was feeling strong well into 5th gear.

I am hoping to be back again soon on slicks and maybe a little more boost and try for 9's. I think I have the trap speed to do it, I just need a good launch and the times should drop.

I have a few photos and videos from the day that I will try to get up later. My in-car camera didn't work but I have the speedo videos and my brother's track side videos.


Some better photos from at the track.

Best pass was a 10.3 @ 139mph.

Video from my 10.3 @ 139mph pass today. Spins through 1st and 2nd.

Here is a plot of the datalog from one of the passes.

0-100mph: ~6.1sec
50-100mph: ~3.6sec
60-130mph: ~6.1sec

Here's the same plot compared against my 10.9 @ 128mph pass from last season.


I got an alignment this week and during the alignment it was noted that one of my calipers was leaking fluid. I decided to go with remanufactured calipers, new rotors, and StopTech Street pads. I also picked up a vacuum bleeder to bleed the fluid after.

Old vs. New

Old pads had plenty of meat left but were developing a lot of cracks.

The leaking caliper.

Old rotor.

StopTech pads.

New caliper.

New rotor.

The removal and install went off without any problems. All bolts broke free without any issues. I put it all back together and went to use the vacuum bleeder. I started on the first one and it was pulling a small amount of fluid but 90% air. This went on for half an hour or so while I hoped it would get better. I was poking around trying to find a leak somewhere in the system but I couldn't find anything.

Then I looked online and found other people have had similar issues if the bleed fittings leaks around the threads when loosened. This is exactly what was happening to me. It was just pulling in tons of air right at the fitting even thought fluid was filling the lines all the way back to the caliper.

I'm not really sure how to prevent this. Maybe thread sealant on the bleeder fitting? I ended up enlisting my wife to push on the brake pedal and did it the old fashioned way. That worked without any problems because it pushes air out via positive pressure instead of pulling it out through the fitting.

I have had ongoing issues with the coolant overflow reservoir overflowing on high speed pulls. It wasn't a lot, so I don't think my heads are lifting, but it was enough to be noticeable. It was using the small coolant reservoir that comes with the eBay FMIC kits. It is a small cylinder.

The Treadstone FMIC kit comes with a larger, rectangular overflow so I got that out and mounted it next to my slim battery. I dumped the nearly full cylindrical overflow into the new one and it barely filled it (maybe 1/2" - 1" from the bottom. I measured the dimensions and the cylinder has about 25 in^3 of volume and the new one is around 72 in^3. So I should have a lot more room for expanding coolant. I will see if it helps...

Coolant overflow.

After I got that buttoned up I went and did half a dozen 50-5mph hard stops and then some more driving to cool it down and a couple 3rd gear brake boosts. The brakes seem to be working fine (the other ones seemed to be working fine too, but I believe they could have failed eventually due to the leak).


I've had various people comming on the stopping power from stock brakes (not just you), so I made a video. I will considering the larger rears once it's time to replace them, though.

Here's an extended cut of my 10.3 @ 139mph pass from Rock Falls last weekend. For anyone concerned that stock brakes aren't enough stopping power check out the video.

It is ~10 seconds from 140-40mph and another ~10 seconds cruising at 40mph before turning to head back. Probably no more than 1/3 to 1/2 braking at any point.


Spent some time on the dyno today. Made 666WHP.


Event: Dyno Tuning
Location: MAPerformance, Cottage Grove, MN
Ambient Temp: 78°F (in dyno room)
Elevation: ~1,000ft
Weather: Sunny and Clear Outside
Tires: 255/40R17 Federal 595 RS-R Tires on 17x9" +45 Enkei RPF1 Wheels

Car: 2002 WRX Sedan
Tuner: Nuke @ NF Performance
Dyno Info: Dynojet at MAPerformance
Transmission: 2012 STI 6 Speed
Gear: 4th
Peak HP at RPM: 666 WHP @ 7,300 RPM
Peak Torque at RPM: 523 WTQ @ 6,300 RPM
Baseline hp/tq for a stock on same dyno: ~240WHP Stock STI
Target Boost: 35psi
Target AFR: 11's
Fuel: E85

Yesterday Nuke and I took my car to do some dyno tuning at MAP. Since the last time at the track we switched it to an EBCS to be able to ramp up boost at the top end, and also put in a Boost-A-Pump because it was leaning out with the higher boost levels.

The car ended up making 666 WHP at 35psi, but we were seeing spark plug blow out on anything over 33 or 34psi so the plot breaks up at the higher boost levels. You can see the car spitting flames when it misses in the video. New plugs should be going in tonight.

666 WHP / 523 WTQ


Here are a couple rig shots from over the weekend.


Got a Seibon RS-style (scoopless) CF hood. Threw it on for a few pics before I get it painted.



  • Stock heat range Iridium's came out and were gapped around 0.027"
  • One step colder Copper's went in and were gapped around 0.021"
  • Upgraded from stock 70A alternator to OEM 110A alternator
  • Upgraded battery negative to chassis ground with 2AWG welding wire
  • Upgraded TGV to chassis ground with 2AWG welding wire
  • Upgraded battery positive to alternator with 2AWG welding wire

Not seeing any blow out, but I haven't done a lot of driving recently due to rain.

Just for fun I plotted my data on top of the RSTI data that jnorth posted. Very similar powerband.

I believe the turbo's have similar sized compressors (his may actually be larger), but the exhaust housing is different as well as many other parts of the builds.

Looks like his AVCS is helping a bit in the midrange, but mine is carrying the top end a bit stronger. I think that stock location housing is just choking it out, but my setup still drops off up high as well.


Installed some Hella horns on my car. They're on the upcoming GrimmSpeed bracket.


Outfront Motorsports alternator relocation bracket.


The bracket came with a 28" belt, but it wouldn't fit on my car. The 110A alternator hits the block and stops it from swinging all the way down in the Outfront bracket. I went to the store and got the next size up, which happened to be 39.25". This fits fine, but the alternator is at the very top of the adjustment range. I will be trying to find a 28.5" belt at some point. I think that would be perfect.

I've never been a fan of black wheels, but I ended up with black RPF1's because it was too good of a deal to pass up, but I've always been considering a change.

I decided I'd try Plasti Dipping them and see how it would look. I like an OEM-ish silver/gunmetal look but I cheaped out and got the matte gray Plasti Dip.

I painted them with tires on just by sticking index cards in the bead to block overspray. I used 3 full cans for the faces (and overspray onto the barrels) of the 4 wheels.

Honestly, I don't like it at all. I'm not sure what I'll do. It will probably stay for a little while, but it will probably be changed or removed eventually.

Some shots of the painted CF hood and the wingless trunk. Also seen are the awful Plasti Dip gray wheels.


Over the weekend I swapped in an 04 WRX cluster. Direct plug and play. I wanted it for the center tach.

I ended up swapping back because center tach doesn't work with my steering column mounted GoPro.


Updated video on the 35psi tune that made 666WHP. 50-100mph came in at 3.36 sec.


Sold the RPF1 setup. I'm back onto the stock wheels for now.


My new street tires arrived today. They are 26x9.5R15 Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials. The new wheels won't be here until next week.


Can anyone confirm the color on these? Gunmetal? Gunmetallic? Are those even two different things? It is really hard to tell colors in photos online. Most photos I see of Gunmetal appear to be a lot lighter and do not have the brown/bronze/copper flake. Most of the time these wheels look pretty dark, but I tried to get a lot of light onto them to really get the flake to stand out in these photos.


Quick shot of mine from last night. Still need to paint those horns...


Edited another shot from the other night.

I'm hoping to get the new wheel/tire setup on today.

The new set of wheels arrived today. They are going to be used with the Mickey Thompson Street Radials. They are 15x7" Rota Slipstreams in Gun Metallic.

Quick shot of them mounted:


More shots of the new wheels and tires mounted up.

Compared to the Hoosiers with identical wheels.

On the car:

Hopefully soon. Maybe this weekend if everything falls into place. Definitely planning on MAP Proving Grounds June 19-21st.

Drove it to work today. Camera phone shots from in the parking lot. Rubs in the rear. Needs to be rolled more...


Some better photos from in the daylight.


Event: 1/4 Mile Testing
Location: Rock Falls Raceway, WI
Ambient Temp: ~70°F
Elevation: ~1,200ft
Weather: Sunny and Clear
Tires: 26x8.5R15 Hoosier Bias Ply Slicks on 15x7" +35 Rota Slipstream Wheels

Car: 2002 WRX Sedan
Tuner: Nuke @ NF Performance
Transmission: 2012 STI 6 Speed
1/4 Mile ET: 9.94s
1/4 Mile Trap: 139.4mph
60': 1.49s
Target Boost: 35psi
Target AFR: 11's
Fuel: E85

9.9s @ 139mph @ 35psi on E85

Drove the car 2 hours each way to the track and back (on Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials w/Hoosiers in the backseat)


Yes, I did. Haha.

I had to wiggle things around to get them to fit. Truck had my jack, tools, and gas can.


Here are some shots of my car from DCTC from other photographers that were at the event.

I was just there helping out and I did a couple slow laps around with my daughter in the backseat.

Here are a couple shots of me rigging Slomander's GTX35R WRX:

Here's the final shot:

Here are some of the shots I took.

My car:

A few other shots. More can be found here.



Over the weekend I did a few updates to my car:

  • Installed an IAT sensor in my end tank
  • Replaced fuel filter
  • Cleaned the bugs off my FMIC
  • Installed Aluminati solid mounts (motor, trans, pitch stop)

3rd gear pull (~90mph) goes up 2°. 4th gear pull (~130mph) goes up 10°.

No photo of the transmission mount because it's not coated yet.

Torque Solutions mounts that came out.


Yesterday NF dropped a new clutch disc in for me. Last time at the track I did around 10 bunouts + launches (on slicks) and then on one of my passes the clutch wouldn't disengage after I got off the line. I got it out of 1st, but it wouldn't go into 2nd. I eventually got the clutch to disengage and got it back in gear but it was really rough whenever releasing the clutch. Especially from a stop in 1st. I drove the car home and after a few more starts it smoothed out mostly.

NF had experienced a similar occurrence with their Speeding Bullet STI a few years ago and suspected the clutch had welded itself and then eventually pulled apart chunks of the disc. Based on this, the decision was made to replace my disc before the Proving Grounds event this weekend. Once the clutch came out, it was confirmed that mine had experienced the exact same thing as the Speeding Bullet. The disc had chunks missing and he pressure plate had parts of the disc embedded into it.

The flywheel was replace with a freshly resurfaced one, the disc was replaced with a new ACT 4 puck solid disc, and the pilot bearing and throw out bearing were also replaced. Also drained fluid and refilled. The chunks were removed from the pressure plate and it was re-installed. It has some obvious hot spots but no major cracking or warping and should be fine to use. I'm hoping this will get me through this season and then I'll probably end up with one of the triple disc clutches next year.


I had a brake light out for a while and I finally got around to fixing it the other night. Turned out that the bulbs in my round inner portion of my light are the dual filament style. One of the bulbs had one of the filaments burned out. That made it so it would light up when the lights were on, but when the brakes were pressed that same bulb would go out.

Got a new bulb and it's all fixed. The auto parts guy tried to give me a single filament one at first so be on the lookout for that if you don't know what part number you're looking for and ask someone for help. Changed my oil last night and I'm heading to Proving Grounds in Brainerd this weekend.


Yeah, I guess we will see. I just have the regular ARP's so they are definitely a risk.

Huge lines to get in to BIR yesterday. Took me two hours at the gate. Made some passes on the Mickey Thompson drag radials and no boost off the line. Got it down to 10.2 but then 60' didn't seem to be improving so I quit for the day.

Hopefully it dries out today and I get make some passes with boost off the line and maybe the top end bumped up a little. DA is quite a bit higher this weekend than when I was at Rock Falls.


I ended up doing 10 passes throughout the weekend and then got booted for no cage during eliminations. No one in my class (62mm turbo) was running faster than about 11 flat. My best pass was 10.1 @ 140mph. I picked up a few mph by not shifting into 5th. I couldn't hook well enough on the street tires to do 9's. I was consistently 10.2 or 10.3.

I will try to get some video up from the 1/4 mile runs soon. For now I have a video from roll racing against a couple EVO's. One is a custom PTE 66mm and the other is a forward facing PTE 6466. Both were at around mid-30's for boost (according to their owners). Runs are from 40mph to about 150mph.

I drove the car to and from the track (2hrs each way) and didn't have any issues throughout the weekend. In the last month the car has seen about twenty low 10 second passes as well as over 1,000 miles on the street. I hope it keeps it up, but I'm sure something will fail eventually as it's being pushed very hard for what the setup is.


Event: MAPerformance Proving Grounds
Location: Brainerd International Raceway, MN
Ambient Temp: ~80°F
Elevation: 1,200ft
Density Altitude: 3,123ft
Weather: Sunny and Clear
Tires: 26x9.5R15 Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial on 15x7" +35 Rota Slipstream Wheels

Car: 2002 WRX Sedan
Tuner: Nuke @ NF Performance
Transmission: 2012 STI 6 Speed
1/4 Mile ET: 10.141s
1/4 Mile Trap: 140.14mph
60': 1.610s
Target Boost: 36psi
Target AFR: 11's
Fuel: E85

9.9s @ 139mph @ 35psi on E85

Drove the car 2 hours each way to the track and back.

Here is a video of some of the drag passes. I was running mostly 10.2's.

After the drag racing I did some roll racing against a couple Evo's.


My exhaust dump was off center last weekend and ended up melting my bumper with all the high speed runs. Last night I took the bumper off and got it back where it should be, so hopefully it doesn't get any worse. I'll probably have to pick up a new bumper eventually.

While I was doing that I also pulled off the Hella Sharptones. They are normally yellow with blue. I pulled off the yellow cages and spray painted them matte black. After installing everything back together they are now much less noticeable (although the blue can still be seen if you look close).


Last night I got a 6766 and DW300 from NF and put them on my car.

Comparison Photos






We haven't done much tuning with the 6766, but initial results seem positive. The first round of tuning we had it up to 40psi and it really moves in 4th but boost in 2nd and 3rd was not well controlled.

I was running the TurboSmart 40mm gate with 14psi springs. I decided to upgrade to the new(ish) TurboSmart "High Pressure" setup. This includes a new top cap and a 35psi spring setup (25psi and 10psi).

Comp Gate 40

HP Gate (35psi)

The higher springs pressure setup was a real bear to try and get back together, but I managed to do it ...by hand (my vice wasn't big enough). Boost response on spring pressure looks great. Solid 35psi curves out to 8k.


Here's a quick speedo video of the 67mm running through the gears at 35psi.


This weekend I installed the Bluetooth E85 sensor from FlexConverter.com


This is a product made and sold by the creator of the Carberry ROM. His ROM's now support full Flex Fuel. I am still using COBB SD so I'm not using the Flex Fuel application, but I still like having the sensor for ethanol percentage and fuel temp.

The kit I got is fully plug and play and is set up for a speed density setup. The harness has one connector for the OEM MAF wiring, another wire for a GM IAT sensor, and the last connector is for the GM ethanol sensor. Just splice the sensor into the fuel return line and everything else is plug and play. Install takes just a few minutes.

The last fill up I did was from a different gas station that I normally use. It is right next to my work, but normally doesn't have as good of E85. The sensor confirmed that it was only 69%. I'm hoping to get a new tank in soon from my normal station and see how it compares.


Here are a few more updates:

Decided to pull the motor out to put into my brother's Bugeye. Ordered parts for a new shortblock.

Also purchased a set of Kelford 282 cams that I found someone selling on the forums.

Cams arrived yesterday. Still waiting on the other parts.

Cleaned up the garage a bit and hung my third tire rack for the slicks.


Internals came in yesterday as well as the shipping container for sending in my case halves. I packed up a set and I will be shipping it today. I have the current motor ready to come out. Just need to borrow a hoist.


The old motor is out.


Took my brother's motor out. My old shortblock will be going into his car.


Upgraded my newer "CARB" compliant gas cans to the higher flowing "old" style. 


  • No longer need to use a funnel to fill up my car
  • No longer have to hold down button the entire time it's filling
  • Empties in ~1/2 the time


My block arrived! Here are some photos of it. IAG closed deck and 1/2" headstuds.

*Studs and plugs are loosely installed by hand for photos.


Selling my old cams if anyone is interested:



After sitting in my garage like this for a few weeks things have started to progress...

Motor assembly was completed by NF yesterday. I spent the day/night installing it and then spent this morning troubleshooting some issues (boost leaks at BOV, FMIC piping, TGV, and injector, and a leaking fuel line inside the tank) and then got it onto the dyno at MAP this afternoon (tuned by Nuke).

I also picked up a DSS CF driveshaft and installed that after the tuning.


Here are some photos from the dyno tuning today. I will have the dyno plots and videos later.


Made a peak of 834WHP / 677WTQ at the dyno yesterday. NF built and tuned. IAG closed deck block. PTE 6766 turbo. Ended up turning it down to around 750WHP due to fuel limitations.

Packed up for Proving Grounds.

9.5 @ 150mph

First pass. Street tires. Driven 2hrs to the track with a passenger, full set of slicks in the backseat, and a trunk full of tools and gas cans.

Big thanks to everyone at NF Performance for all the help, motor build, tuning, and everything else along the way.

Thanks to IAG Performance for building a closed deck block with 1/2" headstuds that can handle some abuse.


Here's the full update (with videos) from last week:

There aren't a lot of threads in this section, so I figured that creating a new one for my new setup wouldn't hurt. Since the last time at the dyno/track (666WHP and 9.9-10.1 @ 139-140mph) I have switched to an IAG closed deck 2.5L motorwith IAG 1/2" headstuds. Rotating assembly is similar spec to the last motor. Cams upgraded from GSC S1 (268) to Kelford 282's. The turbo went from a PTE 6266 to a PTE 6766.


As of Wednesday of last week the motor was still being assembled. NF Performance did the assembly and got it done and back to me Wednesday afternoon. I spent the evening/night installing it into my car and trying to troubleshoot any major issues. Then I did cam break in and changed the oil.


Thursday I drove it about 10 miles to the shop and we continued to troubleshoot. We fixed various boost leaks and then found that fuel pressure wouldn't go above 20psi. We did a lot of troubleshooting before determining it was a torn hose in the fuel tank. That was replaced and fuel pressure was back to normal.

Just to be safe, the car was trailered to the dyno that afternoon. It was strapped down and on the first pull (wastegate pressure of 35psi) it made just shy of 700WHP. A few more 35psi pulls were all 700WHP +/- 10WHP or so. Then we cranked the boost up and made over 800WHP at 50psi+. Fuel couldn't keep up so the final tune was back down around 40psi and made about 750WHP. I threw on the DSS CF driveshaft that night.


Friday morning I loaded the car up with tools, clothes, 10 gallons of E85 and my set of Hoosier slicks in the backseat. My brother and I drove 2 hours up to BIR for the Proving Grounds event. First pass was on the street tires (Mickey ThompsonET Street Radials that I drove up on) and no boost off the line, and I did a 9.5 @ 150mph!


Saturday morning we put the slicks on and then loaded a drag map that would make 18psi on the 2 step. Then I watched one of NF's other cars break the output shaft on the first launch (on slicks and boost on the line). I ended up taking my slicks back off and reloading the no boost launch map.

I did 2 more passes. The first one bogged the launch and then hit the rev limiter before the finish line (trying to hold out 4th gear). The second pass caused my velocity stack to fall off on the 1-2 shift and then the coupler got sucked into the turbo (and destroyed it) in the middle of 4th gear.

Event: MAPerformance Proving Grounds

Location: Brainerd International Raceway (MN)

Ambient Temp: ~60°F

Elevation: ~1,200ft (DA: 1,335ft)

Weather: Sunny and Clear

Tires: 26" Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials on 15x7" +35 Rota Slipstream Wheels

Car: 2002 WRX Sedan

Tuner: Nuke @ NF Performance

Transmission: 2012 STI 6 Speed

1/4 Mile ET: 9.51s

1/4 Mile Trap: 150.5mph

60': 1.56s

Target Boost: 43psi

Target AFR: 11's

Fuel: E85

9.5s @ 150mph @ 43psi on E85

Full Build Thread:



  • OEM 2.5L Case with IAG Closed Deck Conversion
  • IAG 1/2" Headstuds
  • OEM 2012 STI Heads (running Non-AVCS)
  • OEM Subaru Crank
  • JE Pro Seal Head Gaskets
  • JE 99.75mm Pistons
  • Manley Turbo Tuff I Beam Rods
  • King Rod and Main Bearings
  • Kelford 199-L (282) Camshafts
  • GSC Beehive Springs w/Retainers
  • GSC Valve Seals
  • Aluminati Solid Billet Motor Mounts


  • Precision 6766 Turbo
  • KillerB EL Header
  • Fobia Fab Modified for FogLight Mount
  • Fobia Fab Fender Exhaust Dump
  • Fobia Fab Oil Sump
  • TurboWerx Exa Pump Mini Oil Scavenge Pump
  • Custom AN Oil Return Lines/Fittings
  • Treadstone FMIC
  • TurboSmart 40mm HP (35psi) EWG
  • TurboSmart Race Port BOV
  • TurboSmart FPR 1200
  • Walbro 465 Fuel Pump
  • DW 300 Fuel Pump
  • Boost A Pump
  • ID2000cc Injectors
  • IAG Fuel Rails and Lines
  • Treadstone 4" Velocity Stack


  • OEM 2012 STI 6MT
  • DSS CF Driveshaft
  • DSS 800HP Rear Axles
  • OEM STI R180 Rear Diff
  • OEM 2004 STI Front Axles
  • Anarchy Motive Shift Knob
  • Kartboy Short Shifter
  • Kartboy Front Shifter Bushings
  • Karboy Rear Shifter Bushings
  • Aluminati Solid Billet Tranny Mount
  • Aluminati Solid Billet Pitch Stop Mount
  • ACT HD Pressure Plate
  • ACT 4 Puck Unsprung Disk


  • 15x7" +35 Rota Slipstream Wheels
  • 26" Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial Tires
  • 02 WRX Struts
  • Eibach Pro Kit Springs


  • MapDCCD Differential Controller
  • MapDCCD Wheel Speed Signal Processor
  • ProSport EVO Boost Gauge
  • ProSport EVO Oil Pressure Gauge
  • AEM Wideband O2 Gauge
  • Odyssey Slim Battery


  • Seibon CF RS-Style Flat Hood
  • OEM Fog Light Covers
  • Impreza Wingless Trunk

Motor Pull Video:

Motor Install Video:


Dyno Video:

1/4 Mile Video:


Here's the video of the motor install:


Old Build List:


  • OEM 2012 STI 2.5L Case
  • OEM 2012 STI Heads
  • OEM STI Nitrided Crank
  • OEM STI 11mm Oil Pump
  • OEM STI Gasket Set
  • CP 99.75mm 8.2:1 Pistons
  • Manley Turbo Tuff I Beam Rods
  • ACL Rod and Main Bearings
  • ARP Head Studs
  • GSC S1 Camshafts
  • GSC Beehive Springs w/Retainers
  • GSC Valve Seals
  • Torque Solution Motor Mounts


  • Precision 6266 Turbo
  • KillerB EL Header
  • Fobia Fab Modified for FogLight Mount
  • Fobia Fab Fender Exhaust Dump
  • Fobia Fab Oil Sump
  • TurboWerx Exa Pump Mini Oil Scavenge Pump
  • Custom AN Oil Return Lines/Fittings
  • Treadstone FMIC
  • TurboSmart 40mm EWG
  • TurboSmart Race Port BOV
  • TurboSmart FPR 1200
  • GrimmSpeed MBC
  • 04 STI Fuel Pump Hanger
  • Walbro 465 Fuel Pump (Hardwired)
  • ID2000cc Injectors
  • IAG Fuel Rails and Lines
  • Treadstone 4" Velocity Stack


  • OEM 2012 STI 6MT
  • OEM 2004 STI Driveshaft
  • OEM STI R180 Rear Diff
  • OEM 2004 STI Front Axles
  • DSS 800HP Rear Axles
  • Anarchy Motive Shift Knob
  • Kartboy Short Shifter
  • Kartboy Front Shifter Bushings
  • Karboy Rear Shifter Bushings
  • Torque Solution Tranny Mount
  • Torque Solution Pitch Stop Mount
  • ACT HD Pressure Plate
  • ACT 4 Puck Unsprung Disk


  • OEM 2002 WRX Wheels (Winter)
  • 205/60R16 Blizzak WS70 Tires (Winter)
  • 17x9" +45 Enkei RPF1 Wheels (Summer)
  • 255/40R17 Federal 595 RS-R Tires (Summer)
  • 15x7" +35 Rota Slipstream Wheels (Track)
  • 26x8.5" Hoosier Slicks (Track)
  • 02 WRX Struts
  • Eibach Pro Kit Springs


  • MapDCCD Differential Controller
  • MapDCCD Wheel Speed Signal Processor
  • ProSport EVO Boost Gauge
  • ProSport EVO Oil Pressure Gauge
  • AEM Wideband O2 Gauge
  • Odyssey Slim Battery


  • RS Flat Hood
  • OEM Fog Light Covers
  • Removed Rear Wing

New Build List:


  • IAG Closed Deck 2.5L Case
  • IAG 1/2" Head Studs
  • OEM Subaru Crank
  • JE Pro Seal Head Gaskets
  • JE 99.75mm Pistons
  • Manley Turbo Tuff I Beam Rods
  • King Rod and Main Bearings
  • OEM 2012 STI Heads (Running Non-AVCS)
  • Kelford 199-L (282) Camshafts
  • GSC Beehive Springs w/Retainers
  • GSC Valve Seals
  • Aluminati Solid Billet Motor Mounts


  • Precision 6766 Turbo
  • KillerB EL Header
  • Fobia Fab Modified for FogLight Mount
  • Fobia Fab Fender Exhaust Dump
  • Fobia Fab Oil Sump
  • TurboWerx Exa Pump Mini Oil Scavenge Pump
  • Custom AN Oil Return Lines/Fittings
  • Treadstone FMIC
  • TurboSmart 40mm HP EWG
  • TurboSmart Race Port BOV
  • TurboSmart FPR 1200
  • GrimmSpeed MBC
  • Walbro 465 Fuel Pump
  • DW300 Fuel Pump
  • ID2000cc Injectors
  • IAG Fuel Rails and Lines
  • Treadstone 4" Velocity Stack


  • OEM 2012 STI 6MT
  • DSS CF Driveshaft
  • DSS 800HP Rear Axles
  • OEM STI R180 Rear Diff
  • OEM 2004 STI Front Axles
  • Anarchy Motive Shift Knob
  • Kartboy Short Shifter
  • Kartboy Front Shifter Bushings
  • Karboy Rear Shifter Bushings
  • Aluminati Solid Billet Tranny Mount
  • Aluminati Solid Billet Pitch Stop Mount
  • ACT HD Pressure Plate
  • ACT 4 Puck Unsprung Disk


  • OEM 2002 WRX Wheels (Winter)
  • 205/60R16 Blizzak WS70 Tires (Winter)
  • 15x7" +35 Rota Slipstream Wheels (Summer)
  • 235/60R15 Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial Tires (Summer)
  • 15x7" +35 Rota Slipstream Wheels (Track)
  • 26x8.5" Hoosier Slicks (Track)
  • 02 WRX Struts
  • Eibach Pro Kit Springs


  • MapDCCD Differential Controller
  • MapDCCD Wheel Speed Signal Processor
  • ProSport EVO Boost Gauge
  • ProSport EVO Oil Pressure Gauge
  • AEM Wideband O2 Gauge
  • Odyssey Slim Battery


  • RS Flat Hood
  • OEM Fog Light Covers
  • Removed Rear Wing


Precision just happened to have a refurbished 6766 (journal bearing / v-band) for sale on their site for well below retail so I picked that up. It arrived yesterday and I put it on the car for a couple quick test runs. Still seems to be making good power so I am optimistic that the motor is healthy.

The refurb from PTE looks great. Everything looks to have been media blasted and looks nearly like new. A couple cosmetic marks in the compressor cover, but that's it. The damaged turbo will be sent back to PTE for rebuild sometime in the near future and then sold. Let me know if you're interested!


Some shots with the bumper off that I took last week.


I never got a copy of the plot from the final 40psi tune on the dyno so I pulled a quick log and plotted it in Virtual Dyno. The actual Dynojet was showing 75X WHP and the Virtual Dyno is a little higher, but temps were cooler when I did the VD log.

Powerband has nothing up to 4,000rpm and then goes from 250WHP to 700WHP between 4k and 5k. Then it is above 700WHP until almost 8k. This is in 4th gear so spool looks much better than the other plot I posted from the dyno (834WHP) because it was in 3rd gear.


I went out yesterday and tried making some passes on the Hoosier slicks. Air temps were around 40°F. First pass was spinning 1st, 2nd, and then started going sideways in 3rd so I let out. Second pass spun hard through 1st, but I stayed in it and ran a 10.0 @ 148mph.

Lines were extremely long (last weekend before they close for the year) so I ended up having the leave after that. Disappointing that I could improve on my personal best, but I'm happy that I was able to drive the car to the track and back home again without breaking anything.


I took my Slipstream's and Mickey Thompson's off over the weekend. I cleaned them up and they still look like new.

I have the stock WRX wheels and Blizzak's on the car now. I don't think I'll drive it much in the winter, but I might take it out occasionally if it's nice out.

I also picked up some RS 6 spoke wheels a while back and I cleaned them up. They have curb rash but otherwise look pretty good. I am considering selling the Slipstream's and then putting some drag radials onto the RS wheels for next summer.


Photoshop of what my car might look like with the RS 6-Spoke wheels.

This is the plan for my street setup next summer. Along with Mickey Thompson's new S/S drag radial.


Running on the stock wheels and snow tires now. Getting cold in MN. Snowed most of the day yesterday, but none of it stuck.


A few shots from today after work.


Quick nighttime shot.


I took some rig shots the other day. Unfortunate parking garage lighting because I just don't have time during the day.

I bought a 77"W x 72"T x 24"D heavy duty shelf from Menards yesterday for $100. It can hold 12 of the Home Depot totes plus a few more small things. I also did a little bit of other reorganizing and cleaning in my garage and freed up quite a bit of floor space. Best part about the new shelf is that I no longer have to unstack 5+ totes to get to anything.


Decided to do a cage. Looking forward to getting it in and hopefully being able to do more than 1-2 passes at a time before getting booted.


Kirkey seat arrived today. The cover and brackets are still in transit.

My daughters decided to try it out. Haha.


I got the cover on. Still need mounting brackets before installing anything.

All the white, dandruff-looking stuff is from the shipping foam. I need a lint roller or something...

Yep, no need to waste money on something that isn't needed. The stock WRX brakes will fit with some 15" wheels so that's an added benefit for drag.

The only other setup I would consider is the Willwood drag brakes, but they have waaay less heat capacity and are not really recommended for the street.


I couple more interior pieces have arrived.

A couple rig shots from last night.

EDIT: Of my friend's car. Not mine..


I've been working on getting this seat mounted. The Kirkey brackets are universal and require drilling of the seat and the bracket/mounts in the car.

Here's a shot of the seat mounted to the Kirkey brackets. This photo is with the height as high as possible while keeping the stock layback angle.

Under this will be a fixed seat base for the GD chassis. Unfortunately with just these brackets it sits several inches lower than stock so I'm still working on some mounts to raise it back up.


Kirkey seats are finally in! It took a lot of measuring, cutting, and drilling to get them how I wanted. Using stock seat belts for now. Steering wheel is borrowed from a friend until I get mine.


This is at the current power level. None of the things I'm doing at the moment would make it any faster. Could make it a hair slower due to weight...

I found a Youtube channel that took my video and put the speedo portion on top of the external car footage for a list they made. I don't know how to do that, but I thought it looked cool.


I picked up a 5 point harness. Waiting to install until the cage is done.


I never did a full write up. There are already a lot of threads on the GD 6 speed swaps so I didn't think I'd be adding much. Here's a quick summary of the setup when I initially installed it. I listed the model year of the parts I used but also tried to give a compatibility summary in parenthesis. 


  • OEM 2012 STI 6MT (Same gearing as all 2007+ STI, all 08+ STI do not have speed sensor in trans)
  • OEM 2004 STI Driveshaft (Same as all 2004-2007)
  • OEM Stock WRX Axles (Same as all 2002-2007 Sedan)
  • OEM Stock R160 3.545 Rear Diff (Same as all 2002-2005)
  • OEM 2004 STI Front Axles (Late 04 Male Axles)
  • Anarchy Motive Shift Knob (Any STI 6MT Knob)
  • 04 STI Shift Linkages (Same as all 2004-2007 STI)
  • Kartboy Short Shifter (Any STI Shifter)
  • Kartboy Front Shifter Bushings (Any STI Shifter)
  • Karboy Rear Shifter Bushings (Any STI Shifter)
  • Torque Solutions Tranny Mount (Any Tranny Mount, WRX version needs shims)
  • ACT HD Pressure Plate (Any STI Clutch)
  • ACT 4 Puck Unsprung Disk (Any STI Clutch)
  • OEM Stock WRX Clutch Slave (Any Pull Type)
  • MapDCCD Center Diff Controller (Recommended over DCCDPro)
  • MapDCCD Wheel Speed Sensor (Needed if you use an 08+ STI 6MT)

Here's an updated list of how it is now. I've made a few changes to increase durability. The updated items are bold and highlighted.


  • OEM 2012 STI 6MT
  • DSS CF Driveshaft (GD STI version)
  • DSS 800HP Rear Axles (Hybrid R180 inner and WRX outer)
  • OEM STI R180 Rear Diff (3.545 final drive from any 06+ STI)
  • OEM 2004 STI Front Axles
  • Anarchy Motive Shift Knob
  • 04 STI Shift Linkages
  • Kartboy Short Shifter
  • Kartboy Front Shifter Bushings
  • Karboy Rear Shifter Bushings
  • Aluminati Solid Billet Tranny Mount
  • ACT HD Pressure Plate
  • ACT 4 Puck Unsprung Disk
  • OEM Stock WRX Clutch Slave
  • MapDCCD Center Diff Controller
  • MapDCCD Wheel Speed Sensor


Updated interior shot.


I redid the Kirkey seat mounting without the square tube I had used to raise them up before. The first 4 pics are the passenger side. It is mounted in basically the "normal" spot for the brackets. Way low and far back for me to drive so the driver side I used a strip of aluminum to mount it a few inches further forward. Still way lower and a bit further back than before. It's pretty far back compared to what I normally would sit at but I think it will work out well.

Here are some pictures of the cage in the daylight. This is with the seats in the new positions. Still need to install the harness and fabricate the mounts for the seat backs to the cage.

Compilation of the quickest and fastest Subaru 1/4 mile drag racing passes from 2015. All of the cars are in the 8's and 9's! Includes the White Bullet STI, CJ's V8Bait STI, P&L's Drag STI, JrTuned's 2015 STI, and more!

08.48 @ 168, Roly Resto, 2005 STI

08.69 @ 164, CJ Synak, 2006 STI

08.76 @ 169, Tyler Ivy, 2007 STI

09.12 @ 152, Clive Fulcher, 1998 GC8

09.13 @ 152, Jr Barrios, 2015 STI

09.30 @ 149, Jeff Chang, 2005 STI

09.45 @ 141, Brian Leazenby, 2003 WRX

09.51 @ 150, Ben Johnson, 2002 WRX

09.91 @ 121, Kyle Padilla, 2002 WRX

*These are the best passes that I could find videos for, there could be others that didn't have video available or were not known at the time that this video was made. All passes were from 2015.


RJS Window Net and Mounting Kit

Advanced Chassis LLC Seat Back Brackets


Picked up some new wheels for this summer. Silver Enkei RPF1 17x9" +45 with hubcentric rings and Honda centercaps.


17x9" RPF1 with 245/45R17 M&H Drag Radials


2016 Setup | 750WHP | 17x9" +45 RPF1 | 245/45R17 M&H Drag Radials | Kirkey Seats | 8.50 NHRA Certified 10 Point Roll Cage



Aluminati Fuel Rails - https://www.aluminati.us/collections...nt=17059599045


A few images from a local meet yesterday.


Did some runs at Grove Creek Raceway 1/8th mile track with all my safety gear on.


Pretty much given up on NASIOC but here's a rig shot I did the other day.