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6 minute(s) of a 9 minute read
Want to upgrade to a 3MZ?
Compliments of Smaay @ SolaraGuy.com
most of you probably dont know but my 1MZ/3MZ hybrid engine started knocking. which sucks because i built this engine fresh. anyways i had a full 3MZ on the shelf as a backup so i swapped it out.
here are the few issues I ran into.
you need to use the 1MZ water neck because it has the sensor for water temp to your gauges
you will notice i modified my rails to be a return system. you dont have to do this. just use the pink injectors that come with your swap engine.
you have to remove the newer style knock sensors and use your older style. here are the studs from the new sensors. take them out and then put in your older style sensors.
ok first big issues is this water port that sends water to the throttle body. it hits the OCV for VVT in the rear head. since im not using those, i just pulled out the tubes and tapped the hole and plugged it.
Here is the lower manifold attached to the 3MZ
i also had to remove the water nipples on the bottom of the throttle body. again im not using the water ports so no problem. I just put a cap on the rear port for the water return. if i ever have to pull this engine out, ill tap that hole too and plug it. I tapped them with 1/8 NPT so if you must have them you can easily find brass fittings much smaller and just make your own water ports.
the 3MZ has cam position sensors on both heads, im only using the one on the front head. I didnt have to make any changes to the harness.
you will have to do something about the EGR tube. there is no EGR on the 3MZ so no cooler. I just fabbed up the tube as one long single pipe.
this is what you will get as results hooked up the the 5 speed E153 trans
this is all i can think of right now. if this is old news then sorry for double posting. I have seen 3MZ engines on car-part.com for less than 1000 bucks. not a bad mod for 1G and have 241 TQ huh?
here is the pipe on the non VVT 1MZ
on the VVT 1MZ that water sensor is moved to the flat face looking directly at you here.does that make sense?
this is from a post i made on MR2OC.com
ok i just came back from toyota, the bracket that bolts to the head is the same between teh 2 engines. the parts system just got a new program so we couldnt confirm if the pumps were teh same and just had a different bracket on them, or if the part that you loosen and slide the pump to tighten the belt is different. I took a pic of my 1MZ pump with the 3MZ "lower bracket" and you can see that the pulleys will not line up. i believe that the "bracket" that you slide the pump to tighten the belt is different between the 2.
So what i definitely need the the head bracket and then need to confirm the pump brackets.
cont. ok after doing some serious digging, i discovered that the pumps are the same, the head bracket is the same, and the i think the adjustment "slider" is the same. what is different is the the front bracket that is on the pump. it has a big step in it that move the pump back to line up with the pulleys
yeah they changed the timing belt tensioner so the PS pump was moved a little. the oil pumps are different too. but if you get the PS pump with the engine then you are golden. are you upgrading a VVT 1MZ or a plain 1MZ? not that it matters but im really curious how the 3MZ will run on VVT 1MZ electronics.
oh 1 more thing i thought of. the EGR. there is no EGR cooler on the back of the block. what I did was have my fab shop just reshape the pipe so it is a solid piece. I suggest you take the engine to a shop (if you cant do this yourself) and tell the fabricator that you need this pipe shaped to fit. take him the engine with the rear header on and the intake manifold and EGR and the pipes mounted. it will all make sense once you dive into it.