Orwell gets boosted (another 1.8t 20v swap) by mk1vDUBtec

By diyauto
( 3 )

Orwell gets boosted (another 1.8t 20v swap)

Compliments of mk1vDUBtec @ www.vwvortex.com


Hello all! I've had my '84 rabbit gti for about a year now and have decided to do the 20v 1.8t swap. I bought a passat from a coworker 3 weeks ago and have been parting it out since. I'm basically ready to start the actual swap portion now. Enough said, onto the pictures:
The day I bought her... monster truck status!

a few mods and 9 months later:

+ heinous wheels:

The donor:

Engine out!

My progress for the last 2 weeks has been parting it out, making some money back and getting this thing out of the garage/yard so I can start on the rabbit:

After dealing with some very stubborn rusted downpipe bolts and that stupid cover between the trans and engine All of the wiring gets taped up and labeled and the trans is dropped and the motor is pulled out.
Bumpers make for a very convenient tool shelf

I ordered a sach's power clutch kit and lightweight flywheel from bfi along with their stage 2 front motor mount and HD other motor mounts.  
I sourced a vr6 water pump pulley so that I could run the h2o pump and alternator on the same serpentine belt. I also got a TDI oil filter housing to clear my front motor mount and a 16v timing tensioner to clear the side motor mount.  
I've got a 2.0 aba laying around, I think I'm going to use that oil pan (as long as it fits), but drill and tap it for an oil return line from the turbo.
I wanted a k04, but due to money and availabilty constraints, I just got a rebuild kit for the k03 for now 
I also have 10000 other things that I need to decide on what to do (such as catch can, fuel line routing, etc.) but what fun would that be if all that stuff were figured out? thats what a build thread is for right?


Did some Purple-ing and some power washing yesterday.



Debating on what color to paint the bay...
Any ideas?


decided on leaving the bay the stock color for now. I might get a can of the the silver and touch up a few spots, but I need to get this thing finished by mid-September, so painting the bay is not a huge priority right now
I was busy tonight,
Started working on fitting the intercooler (it's off an evo 8, it's a little big so I gotta cut some stuff out)

I cut out that middle rad support, the intercooler will be the rad support itself once I get some brackets made for it. cut off an existing bracket:

Got a TDI oil filter housing so that I could clear the front motor mount of a mk1. This is a picture comparing the installed TDI to the oem 1.8t housing:

No power steering or fan needed here! So I trimmed the bracket to save on space and weight:

I put got a new thermostat and put the brand new water pump that I had just installed from the 8v onto the 1.8t.
I also got a vr6 water pump pulley so that I can run the serpentine belt. Everything lines up! and you can also see my custom cut alternator bracket

Also took the oil pan off of the ABA i have laying around and bolted that on along with the ABA pick up tube. I'm going to buy a bung from Summit and weld it on for the oil return line from the turbo.

Need to install the timing belt and 16v tensioner that I got as well.
Not going to be able to work on the car next week unfortunately But the week after i should have the turbo rebuilt and hopefully a new intake manifold and oil return line mounted and it'll be ready to bolt into the Rabbit!
Then comes the fun of running intercooler piping.
Thanks for watching!


back from a weeks vacation!
Took the oil pan off so that I could get my machine shop to weld in a bung for a return line from the turbo.
Also took off my intake manifold. I'm gonna have them weld a log onto the runners because I cant find a reasonably priced 225hp TT manifold.

Received my 034 motorsports catch can adapter as well as my catch can, sachs power clutch kit, lightweight flywheel, and hd motor mounts in the mail while I was gone! It's like Christmas!!

I also sanded down the engine bay today and primed it. Local paint store will have my paint for me tomorrow (I decided on going the stock color in the bay, LE7Y silver) so that'll be tomorrow's project.
Keep in mind this is just a quick paint job, I'm on a strict time line, I'm only doing this because I have a few days of slack at the moment. Engine is on schedule to be dropped in next Monday.  


Motor mounts are a complete pain in the a$$ to take out and put back in. *I only got the passenger side done tonight.
But I also painted the bay. *What do you think? *Turned out relatively well I think...

^^ and you can also see the new techtonics short shifter I isntalled tonight! *Man, half of my bushings were actually missing (that explains the super sloppy shifter). *I'm so glad it came with new ones.
Also, the screw holes for the passenger side motor mount weren't used in the Passat, so they were all rusty and the bolts wouldnt go through, so I re-tapped them and they work well now.

Also got a serpentine belt, but it's about an inch too short :-(
Also got catch can fittings, so that's complete!
Finishing swapping the new HD motor mounts and timing the motor is my agenda for tomorrow after work. *


I got a lot of stuff done today!  
I bolted the passenger side engine mount on, with the new HD insert. Since the engine mount is off of the Rabbit, the timing cover isn't made to fit it, so I did some custom fab work:

Then I timed it with the new timing belt and the 16v tensioner (used in place of stock tensioner to clear side motor mount)


I also did some fab work to the top timing cover in order to make that fit around the new engine mount as well:

Progress! Finally starting to a little more like a motor and less like a hunk of metal.
I also returned the 38.5" 4 rib serp belt and got a 40" 5 rib belt (for $6 less? wtf?)
HALLELUJAH IT WORKS!!! (and quite well, might I add)  

everything lines up, I spun it around a couple times to make sure nothing would work its way off

Also stopped by Home Depot and got some fittings to adapt a catch can hose to the fitting I got from 034 motorsports to run a catch can off of the block (instead of all that PCV crap).


The problem I'm having now is running coolant lines. I've got to figure out exactly what goes where and how it's getting there. I muffed up and when installing the rabbit water pump, I also installed the rabbit waterpump housing, which has an extra port, hehe. Anybody got any ideas?
Here comes the engineer in me, I'll make it work to my advantage



I switched to an 2.0 ABA oil pan. I had my machine shop drill and weld in a piece of pipe for an oil return line from the turbo. Also, the stock oil pan held the stock baffle in place, so I bought an ABA baffle/gasket combo and used that instead:


I got some goodies in the mail 
Forge Splitter Valve (adjustable diverter and bov)
Sach's Power Clutch Kit and Eurospec Lightweight flywheel:


I also painted a few accents anodized blue to match the grille/wheels.


Pressure plate bolted on:

Then got the clutch centered and flywheel bolted onto the PP. Next came bolting the trans and starter on!

So I started rebuilding the k03 turbo and when I took the shaft out I found this:

NOT good. 
But the guy I bought the car off of assured me the turbo was good and that if it wasn't for some reason, he'd give me some money back, so I'm going to talk to him and hopefully get $100 back. I'm so glad I decided to rebuild the turbo. I would have been pissed if I got the car running and the turbo blew right afterwards.
But it kind of worked out in my favor because I just picked up a k03-s today for $130. I know it's not too much better than the stock k03, but hey it's at least 10 hp for like $30 extra 
I was kind of pissed about the turbo holding up progress, so I decided to drop the motor in yesterday. It only took 25 min and it fits like a glove!!!

with the evo 8 intercooler. I have to modify the radiator a little bit to make it fit:

I probably have to relocate the battery to the back too, unless i move the radiator some in order to run a charge pipe to the drivers side intercooler outlet.

So I made another error and forgot to check the clutch release before I dropped it in...
I can pull the clutch lever all the way up with my hand, which I shouldn't be able to do. the axles spin when the lever is up and down (disengaged and engaged), so something got screwed up...
Anyone have any ideas what I did wrong?? I'm going to take it out tomorrow and try to figure it out.


So there's nothing wrong with the lever arm or the throwout bearing. I took the new clutch stuff off and bolted the old/stock clutch PP, disc, and flywheel back on and it works perfect.
The new pressure plate compresses wayy too much. Then I tried the new PP with new disc and old flywheel, and it kind of works. The lever arm can be pulled up some to where the clutch starts to disengage, but is not fully disengaged.
I will be calling BFI about the Sach's Power clutch kit today and ask for a refund.
Anyone have any suggestions for a clutch kit/ setup?

The push rod length shouldn't change? I have an 020 4k trans (stock 84 gti). I've only come across 4sp and 5sp push rods, I obviously have the stock 5sp pushrod.
I ordered a Sach's power clutch kit for 8v, I called Bfi and made sure it would work for my trans and was assured it would. The flywheel came with the kit, it is Eurospec LW flywheel for an 8v. I have not mixed and matched anything I ordered exactly what should all work together.
I bolted the old clutch setup, with everything stock on and everything works perfectly.
I bolted the new clutch setup on and the pressure plate will not disengage because the 15 ft-lb torque setting basically bottoms the springs out already. If anything I'd think that the springs would be harder to compress rather than easier, since it's supposed to handle more power.

This is what I ordered and doesn't work. 
I'll probably now either order this 
or possibly this

Yeah, the clutch release plate? Yes, that came with the Power clutch kit. I compared it to the stock release plate and they look pretty identical. I used each plate with its designated PP. I didn't attempt to mix and match, but that might have been a good idea. I really think that there is a problem with the "power" pressure plate. I hardly consider a pressure plate with a lower spring rate to be "power" or any better than stock. I was screwing the flywheel bolts in by hand and the plate was bottoming out with the 15 ftlbs torque spec.
I called BFI today and they are refunding my money.  

I just ordered the ACT Stg 2 kit . I've only heard good things about ACT. They seem to be really great quality (I'd hope so, because they're a lot more expensive). I don't want to have to pull the clutch out again for failing aver a few hundred miles, so I don't mind spending extra on a quality clutch.  

Starting the Boost pipes today


Started mocking up boost pipes. Those red connectors are not staying there. They're solely for purposes of mocking up how it'll be. They will be welded together after I have everything where i want it.


yeah, but the guy @ BBM runs one and he said he loves it.. Mine is also a different kind than the ones I've heard breaking, so hopefully it'll be okay.

Does anyone have AEB into mk1 harness wiring help/ suggestions for me? I'm starting the wiring veryyy soon. I found boosted20v's wiring page, so I can try and use that, but it's into a ce2 fuseblock, so I know some things are going to be different.
It'd be awesome if someone had a list of what wires actually need to be spliced and into what. thanks.


Great news!
I put the new stg 3+ SPEC clutch and PP on last night and it works!!!!!! 

Also, my silicone connectors came in for my boost pipes and my K&N air filter came in too (kinda regretting I got a 7" one, shoulda went a little smaller). I've got a list of things to do this weekend (this is only the second weekend I'm working on this project. Everything else has been done after work Monday-Thursday):

1. mount radiator, trim shroud some to fit.
2. Finish running coolant lines
3. Mount Fuel Filter in place.
4. Mount catch can in place and run line
5. Mock up intake pipe with MAF and Air filter
6. Figure out where to weld in bungs for Diverter Valve
7. Buy 3" piping to start custom downpipe
8. Start wiring
9. drink some

Pm'd for sure!!
2.0TFSi in a rabbit??? I had no idea someone had already done that. That is truly insane!

Got some stuff done tonight. Catch can and fuel filter mounted. Axles bolted in. New trans fluid in. Modded the radiator fan shroud a little more to fit in.
Running coolant lines is gonna suck.

Pictures as promised.
My bentley = my best friend.

I made all of these boost pipes with 4 tubes that I got from my work for free because they were throwing them out. I don't think it could have worked any better if I actually bought piping. I still have to weld some 1" bungs on for the diverter valve, though.


new Updatez!
Made brackets for the intercooler and radiator:

Drilled new holes for the radiator tits to sink down into. *I had to move my radiator, trim the shroud a lot, re-weld the fan bracket back onto the shroud, and use the Passat's "slimmer" electric fan in place of the rabbit's in order to fit it. Looks like it'll work pretty well tho! And there's plenty of room for the motor to rock back and forth too.

Fits pretty nicely * 

Tacked the intake pipe for mark-up purposes.

Also had a nice trip to Autozone to find some coolant hoses. *That was fun. *
AZ: "Well, what car is it for?" *
me: "Trust me, this isn't in your computer, just let me look at the hoses you have."

I'm finally getting closer.

The coolant lines are finally complete. *Some stuff is rigged (kinda has to be). I'm praying that it doesn't leak, but I don't think it will.
Up next, the fun of wiring and making myself a downpipe. *Then I just have to figure out what vacuum lines need to be ran to the back of the intake manifold and which ones can be plugged, as well as putting my diverter valve in and then, hopefully (dare I say it?) it will run. *


Soooooooooo. I've been busy
I finished my downpipe and exhaust today!
Things are coming together. Fuel lines are hooked up, oil is in, ecu is mounted nicely, and most of the wiring is done.
I also made my own hood pin things to hold the hood down, b/c the stock hood release won't fit in that space anymore.

Still need to:
-finish soldering a few wires
-run vacuum lines to d/v, waste gate, and boost gauge
-add coolant
-install t-body gasket

I anticipate starting it tomorrow  
wish me luck!


 You can see in the pics at the top of the last page that I posted where I mounted the catch can. It's right behind my winshield washer fluid. The AEB's don't have the valve cover hose breather. I only have the block breather hole, so I just ran a line straight from the one block breather to my catch can and then put a breather air filter on the other port in my catch can.
034's catch can picture looks like they just T it in. I want to say just T in the valve cover hose, but don't take my word for it, I'm not familiar with the AMU or AWP's.
I got rid of all my crankcase ventilation crap with the catch can. Puck valve and everything else is gone. I don't see why you would have a problem with just T-ing your valve cover line in... I would probably put one way check valves into the lines to ensure that it doesnt come from one port and go into the other instead of your catch can.
Maybe ask Otti or Vegeta Gti, they seem to really know what they're talking about with 1.8t's in general.

edit: realized this was a new page (for picture reference)


I finished most everything tonight and tried to start her up. wouldnt even crank/click or anything. There's power to the constant starter wire and the ignition switch/starter wire. I cleaned up the terminals and tried again. still nothing. Looked through my bentley some, turned on the headlights, tried to start it and it cranked! (wtf?) then I walk away look through the book some more, come back, keep the headlights OFF this time, and now it cranks again.
I hear the fuel pump prime when i turn the key to the on position.
Then I tried it again and it fired up, and stopped running right away. I don't think I'm getting fuel during cranking. I think the fuel pump is only priming prior to cranking. I'm going to fiddle with some fuel pump wires tomorrow and try connecting it to something else.
Where does everyone else connect their fuel pump ground to??? (since there's no more coil, and the tach needs an adapter to work?)


Here's some pics of the catch-can setup and my coolant lines:

I'm happy to help.

The rabbit runs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! But I haven't driven it yet, because I need to fix a few minor things first.
It smokes off of the manifold/turbo.
My friends tell me that they think it's just the heat wrap though. I put heat wrap around the turbo oil lines and coolant lines. Apparently that stuff smokes until you get it pretty hot to burn the stuff off.

I also have a small oil leak off of the turbo oil return line. I'm going to RTV the connections and hopefully that fixes it.
I also have a small coolant leak off the flange that connects to the coolant return pipe. I think I can fix that too.
I don't think the rad fan is coming on either- I'm going to check the wiring for that and maybe just put it on a toggle switch.
And the last problem is grounding my fuel pump out. I don't want to just ground it to the chasis because then if I get in an accident, the fuel pump wont turn off unless you pull the key out. Any ideas on what to ground it to so that it would turn off?

I refused to spend $300 at the local exhaust shop for a downpipe, so i made my own:

Here's a bay shot:


So last night sucked.
I took my speedo cable out, and apparently I don't have the clip that holds the gear on, and the gear fell off into the trans. Then I dropped a bolt into the trans. so, I spent all of yesterday after work taking the trans off and then rotating it all around on the pavement until I could see the bolt and gear through the little hole and pull them out. That sucked. coolant leak was fixed though.

Can someone tell me where to ground the fuel pump? I don't want to just ground it to the chasis, because then if I get in an accident, the fuel pump won't turn off unless the key is turned off. I'd just like to make it as safe as possible, and I'm not sure where to ground it on this swap.
Thanks for any help, guys


I did weld most of my pieces, but in order to take it on and off for maintenance, I have a few clamps. I don't have an exhaust leak, so I'm good.

coolant leak is fixed.
car runs.
Coolant temp gauge doesnt work, so I'm not too sure what the temp is. I can't tell if my fan is supposed to be turning on or not.
I have an oil leak off the turbo somewhere.
I'm guessing it has to be either oil feed or return line leaking. I took a look up there and it's wet above the return line, so I'm assuming it has to be the feed line that is leaking
This k03-s is causing all types of problems. I wish I had just gone with the standard k03.


despite my oil leak, I took it out for a small drive up and down the block a few times yesterday and  
I am very pleased with it. The turbo sounds great and whistles loud. The exhaust is a little quieter, but it's deep and sounds really good. I would start to get in the higher rpm's in 1st gear and the tires would start to break loose (and they're brand new) 

As soon as I get that oil leak figured out, it'll be good to drive about. I'm pretty positive it's leaking from the oil feed line because the AN 90 degree fitting is interfereing with the manifold bolt, and the manifold bolt probably put a hole in it. I have some pictures, but I'll have to wait til tonight or tomorrow to put them up.


My tach and temp gauge work, and I used no adapters. 

I fixed my turbo oil leak! Then i took it out for a drive today. i took it to get gas and was driving all around with it. And then about ~.5 miles from home, I heard a noise, pulled into my driveway, shut it off and popped the hood.

It looks like something blew. I've got oil all over the passenger side of the bay. all over the timing chain and everything. I can't tell what it is. the timing belt shot oil all over the top of the hood too. Any ideas what it is before I start tearing stuff apart?
My money is on the crank seal right now.

I'm not sure, i thought I was getting good flow out to my catch can, how can I tell?



sorry it took me so long to respond, I forget where the bolt I used came from, but I didn't use any spacers.

Also, I've made some progress. Over Christmas break I took the lower timing cover off and found that the oil is leaking from the intermediate shaft. I replaced the seal and it still leaks really badly. There's shaft also wiggles a decent amount. Seems like the bearings are shot or something. I unbolted the plate that holds it in there and there's like a groove in it from where the metal shaft was wearing against it and there's metal chips. The engine has 130,xxx miles on it.
Anyone have any suggestions for me? Is it some kind of bearing I need to replace? I'm guessing I need a new intermediate shaft and a new plate too right? Anyone heard of this before? Seems weird that it would happen right after I swapped the motor...

Thanks for help


Good-ish news
I found the motivation to tear into her last weekend:

and this is what I found:

The flange has grooves worn into it from where the shaft was wearing against it, and there's a bunch of metal shards.
I have videos of the shaft. *It is reallly wobbly, like something is missing.
Thankfully, I have an ABA laying around, so I took the intermediate shaft off of it to see what it's supposed to look like.
Here's the ABA:

Notice the bearing.
Here's the 1.8t:

Notice that there is no bearing.... *
hmmmm. *I'm not sure exactly what happened, but my guess is that I spun the bearing somehow, and it's either at the other end of that shaft, or it broke into a bunch of pieces and is sitting in the bottom of my oil pan.
The metal shards had clogged the oil port for the intermediate shaft and it was being starved for oil (yet ironically still leaking like a mother...). *I got a pick in there and dug out the shards.

I ordered a new bearing set and a new shaft seal. *I need to drop the motor down about 3" in order to take the shaft out, so I also bought an engine hoist because I've wanted one for quite some time now
I'm going to use the ABA intermediate shaft and flange. It's nice to have extra parts laying around! haha.
I have plans to drop the motor this weekend, install the new bearing and intermediate shaft, and then put the whole thing back together and (hopefully, pray for me....) fire her up.
I really hope that this fixes my problem and that it does not recur.


Intermediate shaft problem is fixed!
I pressed in a new bearing and a new seal and there is no longer an oil leak!
Now, however, it does not idle anymore. It sounds like it's misfiring and not running on all cylinders.
I ran VAG-COM the other day and came up with the following codes:

VCDS Version: Release 10.6.4 (x64)

Address 01: Engine Labels: 058-907-55x-AEBN.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 8D0 907 557 P
Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT MOTR AT D04
Software Coding: 06051
Work Shop Code: WSC 05311
12 Faults Found:

17834 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80): Open Circuit
P1426 - 35-00 - -
17881 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump: Open Circuit
P1473 - 35-00 - -
17908 - Fuel Pump Relay (J17): Electrical Malfunction
P1500 - 35-00 - -
18021 - MIL Control Circuit: Open or Short to Plus
P1613 - 35-00 - -
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16687 - Cylinder 3: Misfire Detected
P0303 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16688 - Cylinder 4: Misfire Detected
P0304 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
18014 - Rough Road/Engine Torque Signal from ABS: Electrical Malfunction
P1606 - 35-00 - -
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-00 - -
16687 - Cylinder 3: Misfire Detected
P0303 - 35-00 - -
16688 - Cylinder 4: Misfire Detected
P0304 - 35-00 - -
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low
P0102 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Readiness: 0010 0101

After a suggestion from Vegetta, I then logged 14, 15, and 16 and Cylinders 3 and 4 misfire a lot. Cylinder 1 misfires occasionally, and Cylinder 2 does not misfire at all.

Does anyone have any insight to what my problem is and how I can fix it?
Any help is greatly appreciated
Thank you.


Okay so I got home today and started testing stuff.
I switched coil pack. I switched cyl 1 + 3 and cyl 2 + 4.
Clear codes, run VAG-COM. Still have cylinders 3 and 4 misfiring.
Prob not the coil packs.

Time to try the plugs. I switch cyl 2 and 3. Same result. cylinders 3 and 4 misfiring.

I tried to test my ignition control module using the following test:
Testing the 4D0905351:
1) Remove the two connectors from each side of the module. This is done by pressing down on the wire spring clip and pulling on the plug. They should come out easily.
2) Borrow or buy a handheld Digital Multimeter (DMM). They are available from Radio Shack or off eBay. The cheaper ones can be purchased for around $25-$30. It’s a great investment!
3) Set the DMM for resistance measurement. Most DMM’s today have auto-ranging so you need not select a range. If yours has a range selection choose the highest resistance range.
4) Connect the DMM’s + (Red) lead to the middle pin on the modules five (5) pin jack. It is important that you connect the + lead of the DMM. These modules are made up of four power transistors which are polarity sensitive. Even though you are making resistance measurements the DMM does apply low voltage DC to the circuit.
5) One at a time connect the – (Black) lead of the DMM to each of the four pins on the four pin jack side of the module. Each pin should give a resistance reading of around 2.5M ohms (2.5 million ohms). Provide yourself a tolerance and say that 2.0M to 3.0 M ohms is OK. If any pins gives a complete OPEN or a resistance value other than that in our range that sparkplug/coil driver is bad. If you show all of them OPEN maybe you have the DMM connected backwards. From this link:

But my resistances are different. I get a straight 367 (i think, around there) kohms across all 4 prongs.

The resistances are different, but is that just because I'm using a different multimeter??
Do you think its the ignition control module? I'm not sure what to think.


Dude at the junkyard was a complete @ss.
Told me they had it. Wanted $75. I said no way and worked him down to $50. I got there and then he's like oh, wait, I didn't bring the keys for it today, you're gonna have to come back another time. Then he proceeded to get smart with me and tell me that I won't find it anywhere else. So, instead of dealing with that b/s, I found them cheap off of ECS and ordered one with a set of four new spark plugs:

I'll probably be putting it in on Wednesday
Wish me luck.

Anyone got any ideas for a heat sink?
Maybe I'll just run longer wires and put it in the rain tray.


Ignition control module came in, relocated it to my rain tray. Installed 4 brand new spark plugs. Still misfires in Cylinders 3 and 4

Same codes basically

VCDS Version: Release 10.6.4 (x64)

Address 01: Engine Labels: 058-907-55x-AEBN.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 8D0 907 557 P
Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT MOTR AT D04
Software Coding: 06051
Work Shop Code: WSC 05311  
12 Faults Found:

17834 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80): Open Circuit
P1426 - 35-00 - -
17881 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump: Open Circuit
P1473 - 35-00 - -
17908 - Fuel Pump Relay (J17): Electrical Malfunction
P1500 - 35-00 - -
18021 - MIL Control Circuit: Open or Short to Plus
P1613 - 35-00 - -
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-00 - -
16687 - Cylinder 3: Misfire Detected
P0303 - 35-00 - -
18014 - Rough Road/Engine Torque Signal from ABS: Electrical Malfunction
P1606 - 35-00 - -
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-00 - -
16687 - Cylinder 3: Misfire Detected
P0303 - 35-00 - -
16885 - Vehicle Speed Sensor: Implausible Signal
P0501 - 35-00 - -
16688 - Cylinder 4: Misfire Detected
P0304 - 35-00 - -
16688 - Cylinder 4: Misfire Detected
P0304 - 35-00 - -

Readiness: 0010 0101

I put in a bottle of Lucas fuel injector cleaner. Wondering if my injectors may just be clogged from gas that was sitting for 8 months??
I'm going to take them out today and test them to see if they're all working.
Anyone have any other suggestions?

Thanks Vegetta
So I switched injectors 1 and 3 and 2 and 4.

Then I took a look at the FPR:

I guess I'd probably call that debris/rust?

I then cleared my codes and went for a ride. Logged 14,15,16. Cylinders 3 and 4 were still misfiring the most, but now cylinder 1 misfired some and cylinder 2 misfired maybe 5 times.

Scan only comes up with DTC's for cylinders 3 and 4 though....
I'm confused. Can it still be a problem with my FPR even though the misfiring is staying in cylinders 3 and 4? I feel like if debris in the fuel was the problem, that it would just clog the injectors and then the misfire would follow the clogged injector from cylinder to cylinder.

Think maybe it's a corroded wire somewhere?  
Would you still advice replacing the filter and fpr?

oil was replaced 2 weeks ago, I'm planning on changing that after 500 miles.  
I just replaced the plugs yesterday with brand new bosch ones when I replaced the ICM.
I'll replace the fuel filter and fpr... Is this a good time to upgrade fpr? or do I need software change in order to run a higher fpr?

I looked for vacuum leaks, but couldn't find any. I don't have a way of actually pressure testing the system, but I'm thinking about just bringing her to a local shop that's been helpful to me if I can't figure this out in the next week or so.
I have a boost gauge, i spool 5psi at full throttle.

Also, my ground on my valve cover for the coil packs looks like ****, I think I might cut it and run a new end... There's only supposed to be one ground for the coils, correct?


I'm beginning to think that the head gasket might be cracked.
I'm going to borrow a compression tester from a friend later today and test it.
I'm praying that this is not the problem.

Just did the pressure test.
Cylinder Pressures are as follows:
~175 psi, ~160 psi, 0 psi, ~155 psi

In November, I let (who I thought was a friend) work on my car for a week. Kid totally ****ed me over by charging me something we never agreed upon, and also not fixing my car.  
Now, I'm thinking maybe they ****ed something else up and maybe even bent a valve.

My question:
It's possible that this is a bent valve (or two or three), right? I know that pistons travel in pairs, so I kind of feel like if Cylinder 3 had a bent valve, wouldn't cylinder 2 also have a bent valve? or not necessarily?
Praying that this is just a head gasket, but definitely leaning towards it being a bent valve. fml.

Guess I have a project for next weekend...


bent valve(s). Bottom end is not damaged though.
Found a good deal on a cylinder head semi-locally. Going to pick it up now.

Yeah, I guess I had to learn the hard way that I can't even let trusted friends work on my car while I'm not there.
The third intake valve noticeably pretty bent. There are two small marks in the piston from the 2 exhaust valves as well, but there is no scoring on the cam lobes and the cylinders look fine. Idk how they managed it but I know the one kids rigs things.. I think he cracked the crank bolt loose by putting a breaker bar on it against the control arm and cranking the engine...

I picked up a new head today from someone local. Valves are all in great condition, took the cam caps off and they look perfect. He even threw in the bottom end for free and is letting me borrow his head bolt tool! Very nice dude.
I'm going to bolt it on tomorrow.


Thanks for the advice, Cris. Bottom end looks good. I think that it might have been from using an impact gun to turn the crank or something.

SHE RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Cleaned up the block and the new head, put all new gasket on everything, bolted everything up using thew new Eurospec Race Bolts and reconnected all my lines. She started up first try. Has a nice idle and drives great!! I only got on the throttle a few times, because I'm trying to actually break her in. The turbo is SOO LOUD, haha. I'm having my dad drive back and forth to work every day with it this week to make sure everything is good. I work too far away to drive it before its reliable. I'm planning on taking it to a car show on Sunday. I went to it last year and everyone loved the rabbit. I can't wait to show up this year and get to show her off
Words can't describe how happy I am that this thing finally runs.

I'm spooling 5-6 psi under full throttle. Are those EVAP codes putting me in limp mode or is it just because of all the piping and huge front mount I have?

No software, yet. to come in the near future.
No real engine work, stock internals, just big front mount and tubing, TT intake mani, forge split-r dv, Eurospec head bolts, southbend stage 3+ clutch and PP
3" downpipe to 2 1/2" under the front seats to 2 1/4" from under the seats to out the back for the sleeper look. No Cat. 2nd O2 sensor backed out with spark plug bungs.  Resonator and Magnaflow muffler.

good to know about what actually happens with evap delete  i don't think I have the charcoal canister anymore, though. Hopefully I can get a chip soon so I can get the evap stuff deleted with it.
i think my clutch slips a little in 4th and 5th gear around 4500-5000 rpm under boost. Hoping it's just because the clutch is brand new and only has about 25 miles on it. I'm not gonna take the tach up very far until I reach the 500 mile mark in hopes to break it in.


Rabbit got chipped by APTuning on Saturday morning with a United Motorsports Chip. I am thoroughly happy with the tune. It's advertised 19psi, but with my huge front mount and all my piping, I'm seeing 12psi.  Tires are brand new toyo proxe 195/45/15's and they break loose easily in first and second gear. I got on it once in first gear and it tried to walk off the road. I put pretty close to 200 miles on it this weekend with no problems whatsoever.
I went to a car show on Sunday morning and the rabbit got a ton of coverage. A lot of people seemed to like it and a professional photographer even came over to take its picture.
I've got pictures that I took, but they're on my girlfriend's camera, so I'll have to wait a few days to get those up.

I'm trying to break my setup in, so I didn't get on it too much this weekend, but I did race my friend on the highway. He's got a Saturn Ion Redline. The one that's supercharged. He's got a lot of mods done to it, including a small pulley and he's pushing about 20lbs of boost and 285 HP. My tach wasn't working (it comes and goes...) and his car is louder than mine, so I couldn't really hear my car, but I still beat him pretty good. He started in 2nd gear and I did a 3rd gear pull to about 100mph. Also tried to mess with some mustangs on the way, but they wouldn't play

I'm finding out quickly that I need a new transmission. I want to get my 020 built to handle the setup, with LSD and a 6th gear.
Also contemplating running 3" exhaust all the way back. It's got a nice deep import purr to her, but I want a louder growl.

good to know all about the hp  I was thinking I was around 200whp. Didn't know I'd get more psi out of a less restrictive exhaust, but that makes a lot of sense. I'm running the stock Passat exhaust mani right now too, which is pretty restrictive. I have a less restrictive gti one, but that moves the turbo to the drivers side more, and I'd have to completely re-do all of my exhaust and my boost pipes as well.... I'm trying to decide what I want to do... I may just delete the 2.25" for now and replace with 3" and then save the manifold, etc. for a later project.

and bahahaha... yeah I'm not expecting my box to last much longer than a year. I barely get on it in 1st gear because it scares me. 3rd gear gets it pretty good though haha. 65mph is like 3500 rpm in 5th gear though A new box is definitely my next big mod.

Words can't describe how happy I am that she runs.... but goodbye mpg.
I did not go to bugout. VA is a little too far for me after it's only been running for a week. Didn't want to take the risk. I went to a more local show, probably 30 some miles from my house. It was the Chester County Car Club annual show in Kimberton, PA. There were like 5 sweet beetles though and 1 slammed rat bus. Pissed I left pics on my g/f's camera. All those pictures are gonna have to wait until Friday.
She did text me two that she had taken while following me though:

I emailed the professional photographer and he told me that he'll have the pics up tonight sometime, so I'll definitely post that one as soon as it's up

Also, slowly realizing that this really is a never ending project. So many parts on my list.. haha
Also, my front left turn signal was out. I replaced the bulb. It's the correct bulb, but my left turn signal still blinks really fast.... thoughts?


gonna buy the FN off of Hugo and put a bolt kit in and replace the seals
picture whoring as promised

Next to my pops' '68 Fury

Didn't have time to really clean the bay :/

My friend's supercharged Ion Redline, and my g/f in the background

Other cool shtuff i saw at the car show:

mk1 mini

I trashed a Mustang GT yesterday... i was so much fun... especially because he laughed when I first pulled up next to him



Something's not right. I'm chipped with a United Motorsports chip now (thank you APTuning!) and the chip advertises 19psi...
My boost gauge only reads 7psi. I started pulling vacuum lines today seeing if anything made a difference. I couldn't find anything really.... except that my intake temperature sensor was unplugged oops. That must've been unplugged since I swapped heads a month ago.
I took it for a drive to get gas after I plugged it back in and it is now peaking at 10, but holding at 7 still. I'm going to scan with vag-com tomorrow and see if that sensor threw a code. If so, I'll clear it out and see if I push any higher.

I'm running the Forge split-r, but I have it on fully diverter and it's set to like 50 clicks. I don't think it's the problem. Thinking about making myself a boost leak tester just to be sure. Any way for me to test all the vacuum ports coming out of my intake manifold?

I know I've got a big front mount and a lot of tubing, but 7 has still got to be way too low.


I didn't try the brake clean thing, I've got so many connections and i know brake clean isn't good for seals, so i was kind of weary.

I borrowed a boost leak tester from someone. Everything leaked down pretty quickly. Sprayed everything with windex. Found tons of bubbles coming past the injectors. Guessing I need new o-rings Not too sure that that's my only problem though... loss of 10 psi just leaking past o-rings?
@ idle I'm at around -16. I know I should be around -20.

Got pulled over last week Pulled into a taco bell to get some food with my coworkers and a cop had been following me. I knew he was gonna get me for something. He followed me in and I got out and asked him if I could help him. asked for license/registration, etc. then he walked around my car (I think he was looking for something to get me with, because he didn't have a reason to pull me over) and then tells me that my euro plate is an obstruction of view. So I take it down just to make him happy. Then he starts harassing me about my antique tags, telling me I can't daily drive it... He doesnt seem to get the point that I DONT daily drive it. He proceeded to argue with me about it for 10 minutes until he realized he didn't have anything on me. He took down my information and then left. Pig doesn't have anything better to do?

I leak trans fluid... I smoke a little and can tell that I burn some oil. I don't know why. Can't tell if its just trans fluid getting on something and burning or if I'm burning oil for another reason. Temp gauge doesn't say I overheat, but my rad fan comes on pretty frequently. Those long drives @ 4k rpm don't help my case too much either... I need to build that trans and get sidemount oil cooler asap.

I feel like the problems are just building up... I burn gas quickly because of my rpm's and because I'm running really rich on account of my boost leak.

Oh, and to top it I tried to get it aligned and I need a new camber kit and 2 tie rod ends. NTB tried charging me $5XX for it all and I said noo thank you I'll do it myself lol. They wanted $69.99 for each tie rod end!! GAP sells for $15... Parts were ordered on Friday, maybe I'll get some time to put them on this weekend.


Today a busy day.

Replaced all 8 injector seals.
Installed new Tie Rod Ends.
Installed new camber bolts.
Installed Scirocco K Bar
Saw my turbo oil return line was touching my draftshaft. Crap. There was actually a hole worn in the line from the driveshaft. I drove all around trying to find 5/8" rubber hose. All the hardware stores were closed and home depot didn't have it. Finally, Tractor Supply had 5/16" dishwasher dump line! It's the same thing as heater hose. haha, so I bought that, cut it to length, and even installed a bracket to keep the line away from the driveshaft.  

Changed the oil and new filter. Attempted to Powerwash the hood (to no avail).
Phew. Car only hits 5psi now :/  
but it drives, so I'll be at mk1 madness tomorrow and I hope to see some of you mofo's there.



I used a k03-s from a transverse setup (gti/jetta) so that the compressor inlet faces towards the drivers side and the compressor outlet faces up. Makes it realllly easy to run intake/boost piping. I suggest you sell your k03 and pick up a k03-s. It'll be basically the same price you can sell yours for.
also, it'll put the turbine output straight down, convenient for a downpipe, instead of out the side like a longitudinal k03.

I'm pretty sure that the clock on these turbos is important. I know when I went to rebuild mine originally that I had to mark how everything was clocked. I believe it's possible to clock it differently, but then you'll have to get it re-balanced. There's this company out in California that specializes in it, but their name is slipping my mind at the moment.

I just wanna say it again, I strongly suggest you sell the k03 and buy a k03s (if you want to stick with a stock k03 series). It's your easiest/cheapest option to make it easier on yourself.
Also, pick up the k03-s manifold with it. you can just bolt the k03-s onto the k03 mani, but the -s manifold has much better flow and is much less restrictive, so I suggest doing that. I have one laying around but don't want to redo my entire downpipe at the moment. I wish I would have known before I isntalled.


so yesterday I drove the gti for the first time in 2 weeks... I was holding 12psi and peaking at 15...
Then last night it was about 10 psi. It's 10 psi again today. I know it's really hot out, but can the heat change the air density that much that it'll increase my boost up 5psi??
I'm confused. something's weird.


I did a boost leak test a few weeks ago. Put the plug where the air filter goes on and filled it up to 20psi. It leaked down fairly quickly. I could feel a little coming out of the N75 at the port that I have vented to atmosphere... Is that normal?
That's also how I found that my injectors were leaking. I replaced all the o-rings for those though and no improvement. (well maybe 1psi?). I tightened all my connections and checked all my ports. I can't find a leak. I'm not saying that there's not one there, just that I'm having a really tough time finding it, especially when it all leaks down in under 10 seconds.
I'm thinking it must be a boost leak... cuz I'm now peaking at 10 and holding 8ish.
I borrowed a spare N75 valve from a friend. I'm gonna swap them out and see if it does anything.
then I'm gonna unplug the wastegate and do a smooth rev. It should hold unlimited boost right? If not, then it's probably a problem with my wastegate I'm thinking (but i'm leaning away from that).


borrowed a smoke tester from work. only goes up to 30in h20 though (which is like 1 psi lol) so I filled the system with smoke from tapping into the fpr line and then hooked the compressor up. smoke was coming out of my n75 (the port i vent to atmosphere).
so then I plugged my buddy's n75 in and started it up. No improvement.
Messed with some lines, boost gauge, etc. Then I just ran it while I sprayed every connection I could find with brake cleaner. Nothing no rough idle at any connection. Happened to look back at my gauge. reads -20 now. wtf? how does spraying brake cleaner make it beter? weird.
Needed to go to work so we called it a day. on the way to work still only peakin at 10 psi, holding 9ish, with my buddy's n75 still plugged in.

went out for lunch to BK. I owed my friend a ride so I got on it. Seemed like she was pulling harder than usual so I looked down and was holding 15psi. wtf is going on? Ran absolutely great and pulled very hard. Parked the car. had lunch. filled her up at wawa for gas. got on it on the way back to work, back down to 10 psi.

I'm being tormented.

now holding 20 psi. I think it was the N75. and the pedal gets stiff after 10/15. Didn't realize I could press harder and hit 20.   I feel retarded.

This thing pulls hard as a motherf*cker.
I'm scared to take it to 20psi though. The boost gauge I'm running right now peaks at 20. I'm scared I might run higher and not know it...

And thanks Trevor! I've got a friend with a tacoma that lives in york. He sent me a pic of a rabbit by him. It's got a checkerboard hood and roof. Is that you?


and trevor,
here is the car:

My friend says it's always parked at the robburitos in York. He thinks its someones that works there.

I started tearing into my 020 FN last night.

I first removed the detents and flanges:

I couldn't find a 27mm hex key for the life of me at any local hardware stores, so I cut a piece of bar stock and welded it back together. It wasn't ideal, but it worked out.

After removing the selector shaft, I opened the 5th gear cover.

I've been using brokevw.com as a reference. His stuff is awesome, but he doesn't have too much about my style of 5th gear selector fork. Mine has a peened tube instead of the splined shaft. I cut away the peens in order to screw the fork off of the shaft:

When I rebuild this, is that peened tube necessary?
Theres no way I can reuse the original. Do I have to buy another? Or will it be fine without the tube? I'd also hate to have to source the other type of splined shaft and install that instead.

Moving on, I was able to split the case, when I immediately noticed that the rivets were of much better quality than the ones I read about/see when people install the bolt kit:

Will the bolt kit still benefit me even with these rivets?
Are these rivets prone to failure as well? Or are they strong enough to hold the power as well as the bolts?

I also noticed that the diff bearing had some play in it.

How much play should the diff bearings have?
I noticed that the one that is currently visible has some play in it. It's still pressed onto the shaft, but the outer ring of the bearing can be tilted and whatnot. Is this bearing alright or do I need to replace it?

Look at how much ish the magnet has on it:

I plan on removing the shaft and install the diff bolt kit on Thursday.
Thanks in advance for the help guys! (even though Cris is probablly the only one that reads this )


Passenger side taper bearing had a lot of pitting, but all the other bearings looked great:

These bastards fukn sucked to drill and press out. took me much longer than expected:

Ordered new taper bearings, shims, 5th gear bolt, and a missing 2nd gear sync key from Broke. Hope it'll be here Monday so I can start putting this thing back together on Tuesday.


FN is in!!
I can't even begin to describe how awesome it is. Finally some time between shifts. It's much more relaxing to drive. And I can cruise and have fun on the highway now!!! Gas mileage is going up too.

I need to adjust the shift linkage though. Anyone have any suggestions on how to?
My Reverse and First are wayyy too close together. I not longer need to press down to go into reverse. it's just all the way over to the left. 2nd and 4th are also pretty close.


 Thanks Cris. I took your advice and went through my Bentley. Shift linkage is now perfect! every gear is right where it's supposed to be.

Went for a cruise with a couple friends.


Found my boost problem. Stock n75 valves suck...
We adjusted my friend's mbc on his saab to hit 19psi and then put it in place of my n75. Perfect, pushes 19psi no matter what rpm, gear, etc.
I think I'm going to buy a Forge Motorsports MBC... Unless anyone suggests a different one?


bought a Forge UNOS mbc. works decent. Holds 19psi no problem. Mid throttle response kind of sucks though... working on ironing it out. Just bought a ross-tech hex can usb cable so I can run vag-com.

19psi is nuts in this car. I don't know how some of you (ahem, Cris) run 20+ with BT 20v's lol.
My friend has a decent camera so we went on a cruise on Sunday and he took a few pics for me.
He's by no means a photographer, but I thought a few came out pretty well for not photoshopping anything.  
a few highlights:

cheating :


Stole this from the 2012 DCI Toys for Tots FB page (photo courtesy of Ben Hesler):


It finally got a little warm in PA this past weekend. I took the rabbit for a nice drive after a winter slumber. Also spent some time cleaning up the wiring in the engine bay. My husky/malamute Kali spent some time hanging out with me while doing this:

The next few steps are to relocate the battery to the hatch, pull the air filter up behind the headlight (out from behind the radiator), and work on some of the vacuum, coolant, and fuel line routing.

I REALLY want to get away from using the manual boost controller. Partial throttle is non existent. But every time I try a new 75 valve, I only hold 7psi or 10psi or 5psi at full throttle. I can't figure out what the heck is going on. I'm tuned by UnitedMotorsports on 18psi, which is what my mbc holds, but not any n75. Anyone have any insight into this??

As a side note, 2 friends and I picked up this caddy for $600 from a local oldhead on Tuesday. He was hoarding a bunch of old vw's. He has a sweet dasher for only $500, but I think it's too far gone. They're hard to find parts for. I towed the caddy home with the Quattro. It's a total rust bucket.


These valves seem to be a pretty big mystery from what I'm reading everywhere. I did read something about people noticing that running a Throttle body adaptation helps when switching out n75s. Apparently the motor has to adapt to the n75. i was just throwing one in and romping it down the street for a few minutes and then changing to another one. Maybe I need to redo these tests with a TBA.
I'm gonna contact United Motorsports and see what they think.


As an update to the thread, I'm working on getting some nice wheels with my tax return money this year 
I had a set lined up, but the company informed me that their site was wrong and they do not carry the offset I need. I love the snowflakes, but the 6" wide wheels do not cut it with this 1.8t (even with the super nice Dunlop Direza tires I put on them) I spin through 1st, 2nd, and sometimes 3rd. I'm trying to get a set of 8" wide wheels (or maybe 7"). I prefer 14" but nobody makes 14's anymore probably going to have to go 15". 15x8 et 12/15 is what I'm shooting for so that I don't have to run spacers to clear my coils.


Finally decided on some specs and purchased some wheels with my tax return money
I would have liked to keep as much rubber as possible on the tire for traction, but in order to fit the wheels under the fenders, I had to stretch the tires a little. Mk1s are just not made to fit a lot of rubber under the front fenders
15x8 et20 w/ no spacers wrapped in 195/45/r15 Toyo Proxe T1Rs. Had to remove the helper springs in the front.


The 020 finally went out I was leaking trans fluid between the block and bell housing and thought it was the input shaft seal or the pushrod seal. Pulled the trans last night and found this:

I had replaced the rivets in the diff with the ARP bolt kit 3 years ago. I also replaced the bearings at the time. I suspect one of the bearings went out and shot through the case. One of the axle flanges is wobbly. I started tearing into the case last night, but as anybody who's rebuilt one already knows, it's kind of tedious and time consuming. Got the case split, but need to pull the gears off the shaft before I can pull the diff out to see what's up.
I'll probably either fix the diff and have a friend weld the case back up for now or if it's too messed up I'll throw another 020 in just to get me through the show season. (020's are cheap enough to be disposable -it's more the labor of replacing them that sucks)

During the winter, I plan on doing an O2J swap. I just want to drive her in this nice weather for now though.


haha yeah, 3 years is good, but there's not a ton of miles in those 3 years. Probably just 2000 at most.

The jury is in:
I broke a diff tooth off.


Found a local FF for $100 with the bolt kit already installed in it. For that price, I just bought it. Stuck it in last night. Boy I forgot how much of a pain in the d*ck it is to put the trans in with the axles in place. Was up really late, but it was worth it because I wanted to take the rabbit down to Cruise week in OCMD this weekend. Put a few mustangs in their place.  

This FN is only to get me through the summer/fall. When i park her again for winter, I'll be doing an 02A or J swap.  


I put the FF in on Thursday night. Then drove to OCMD on Friday for Cruisin Weekend. Had a good time with some friends and got a lot of compliments on the car, which kinda surprised me coming from domestic muscle-heads. Unfortunately, I didn't get any pictures It's nice being able to drop draws and keep up with some of the big v8s.
Anyway, I made the mistake of letting a friend drive the rabbit on Sunday morning. He romped it hard in first gear (I usually tell ppl not to get on it in first). He hit it full throttle, let off, full throttle again, and then let off. Bucked pretty hard, he can't drive stick very well. The new prothane transmission mount sheared right off:

I wire tied it back up there, just so I could limp the 200miles back home to PA:

GermanAutoParts is refunding me this time, but said that they can't if it happens again because of the modifications to the car.
They were originally just going to send me another one until I researched the problem and found that this happens to the rear prothane mounts all the time.
I have HD side mounts and a BFI stg2 front mount. I'm going to make the front motor mount spacer this week to take out the slop.
Anyone have any experience with the Techtonics "race" trans mount? http://techtonicstuning.com/main/ind...roducts_id=216
It's pretty hard, I want to make sure it doesn't shear like the prothane one did. I refuse to use the solid mount and don't want to shell out the $$ for the race one if others have bad experiences as well. I had the HD one when I first did the swap and I found that one sheared in half when i replaced the trans.