1988 scirocco project (shortened bumpers too)
Compliments of JonnyPhenomenon @ vwvortex.com
bought myself a good condition 88 rocco last year and promptly put it away in the garage for the winter. it had never seen snow and I wanted to keep it that way.
now that spring is here, I decided to roll it out and get to work on it.
I dont really mind the north american headlights, but I really needed to get rid of the ridiculous "clown shoes" bumpers I had on it.
interior was ok for the most part, but the drivers seat bolters were shot and the dashboard was totally destroyed by sun.
I hand stitched in some new vinyl for the drivers seat bolsters and located a great condition dashboard from a junk yard in my area.
you cant even tell the seats been repaired. it looks mint
Previous Owner had it resprayed with what looks to be a maco paint job since it is peeling off in sheets. Therefore, I have devoted some funds to getting it painted again by my father who is a very skilled body man.
of course, something had to be done about the damned Clown Shoes, so we went to work on trimming those down. since I cant afford 500$ for a set of euro bumps, I decided to modify my own.
we took 2.25 inches off the front, and 2.5 off the back. this required cutting the tow hitches all off, flipping the bumper brackets in the front, and flipping the brackets and rebar in the back, busting the clips off the rear, sawzalling and plastic welding etc etc.
here are some pics of that process:
hack the brackets:
weld on the rebar to .75" from body
using painters tape to measure how much to remove from front clown shoe
now we had to plastic weld them back together.
tip when plastic welding: use a very powerful iron or hot knife. add tons of extra plastic that you can chop up from the bits of plastic you cut off the bumper. try not to introduce air bubbles and take your time. ventilation helps here too. heh.
to reinforce the joint, I used part of the inner bumper skin and welded it in place. the resul is a very strong bond that will not crack and should bne undetectable when the car is finished.
is this any better?
before they were plastic welded on, we had to do a bit of shaping to them to get them to fit right in there new location. the ends of the bumpers were intended to be held in place by brackets and they pushed n the body when they were in there new home. we ground them down and shaped them to fit without rubbing on the body, and that cured the "saggy bumper" issue some people with pulled bumpers have complained about.
so thats all for now. expect more pics as we get the car all sanded down and start the painting proccess.
p.s. I will also have pics of the patching proccess for the body kit parts that need filling in now that the tow hitches are gone. check back tomorrow night
very clean indeed. it was brought up here (Maine) from alabama and I rescued it before it saw snow. (and salt) its got zero rust on it, but the paint was faded from all that desert sun, and the dash was toast.
now I got a new dash and should be painting by this weekend.
next on the list is to smooth out a couple dings and get down to sanding.
as for the vinyl, it wasnt very hard really. just time consuming to do it all by hand. when I replace all the velour with suede, Ill have to use a machine. also, my headliner is wrecked and will need replacing too, so thats on my list...
its proved to be kind of a pain in the ass, but money is money and I havent got a lot of it.
another day and a lot of progress. my father DA'd the entire car today while I was at work. by the time I got here at 5:30 he had thrown in the towel for the day and I went to work on filling holes and fabricating stuff.
since we hacked the bumpers so short we had to cut off the tow hooks, and that left a gaping hole in the body panels.
everything below the black line would show beneath the bumper:
and since the bumpers would be pulled in and raised up, these holes would be a lot more visible from behind.
I couldnt plastic weld the body panels because the plastic was not the "melting" kind. bumpers were TEO, but the body bits are all some other kind. thankfully, this is the kind that the plastic repair stuff sticks to best.
a little bit of that stuff and the hole was patched right up.
I used up all my plastic repair so tomorrow I have to get some more so I can finish filling in the cavity left in the side skirts now that my bumpers are so much higher. whos effing idea was it to put that there anyway? it never looks right...
at least I got the left side done
anyway. tomorrow I get up at 5am and get to work on the car till about noon. then I have to drive home and get ready for work till 9.
why am I still up?
turns out bondo works pretty good on the body kit parts too as long as they arent going to be moved around. the rear corner "bumper cavity" was easily filled with bondo. the bumpers themselves require a bit more finesse.
I spent a few hours this morning scraping the black vinyl decal stuff off the hatch. this is hard to do with the window in place
we got most of it sanded now. We should be ready to paint on saturday. but I have to work this weekend so I am going to try to work around it.
that reminds me, I have to order a ton of parts...
no pics of todays work yet. left the camera in the shop 45 minutes from here.
just placed this order from worldimpex.com.
ITEM: DOOR HANDLE GASKET small
COST: $3.31 ea
ITEM: DOOR HANDLE GASKET large
COST: $3.13 ea
ITEM: CLIP (for rain gutter rubbers)
COST: $0.49 ea
ITEM: GASKET for hatch popper button.
COST: $5.20 ea
ITEM: CLIP (for rocker panel sils)
COST: $0.49 ea
ITEM: PACKING (left side view mirror trim)
COST: $10.26 ea
ITEM: PACKING (right side view mirror trim)
COST: $10.26 ea
ITEM: BRACKET (sun visor retaining hooks)
COST: $3.73 ea
ITEM: ESCUTCHEON (platic trim that covers the screws that hole the mirrors on)
COST: $3.59 ea
ITEM: ESCUTCHEON (platic trim that covers the screws that hole the mirrors on)
COST: $3.59 ea
ITEM: GRILL EMBLEM (Chrome. because I like it better than black)
COST: $17.86 ea
ITEM: GROMMET (rubber bits that hold the hatch emblems on.)
COST: $0.64 ea
ITEM: LOCK KNOB (the button that makes the back seat lay forward)
COST: $3.68 ea
ITEM: ESCUTCHEON (actually part of the sunroof.)
COST: $9.47 ea
SALES TAX: $0.00
SHIPPING: $11.50 (UPS Ground)
GRAND TOTAL: $109.39
then I ordered a new roofmount antenna kit from http://www.germanautoparts.com for 65$. now I am broke.
I was scanning through the pics, and I realised that I was going to have to cut my muffler shorter now that it sticks out farther than my bumpers..
You have no idea how good it feels to have THAT as my problem. I never thoguht I would see the day that my muffler was "too long" compared to those stupid bumpers. lol.
anyway, sleep now. will post updates tomorrow.
drove out to the shop yesterday after work, and found that my father had primered the car. Man he works fast!
check out these bumpers!
and heres Me.
Hey Ginster, trust me man, your project was an inspiration to kick me in the behind and get me going. (Mr Lees too!)
I was determined to see my car painted in time for the summer, and wouldnt you know it, its gonna happen
My father had primed the car yesterday and it needed to set up overnight to be sanded today. he uses a high build primer and layed it on really thick in a few areas where it needed it.
I showed up at 5pm and took the late shift. I stayed up till 1am sanding out all the door jams, pulling out the dash and other interior bits so I could run a new antenna wire. and effectively destroying my headliner in the proccess
(anyone know where I can get a new liner? I might just make one.)
we made mad progress today I tell ya. Got up at 5:30am, had a cup of coffeee and went straight to work.
I sanded all the bumpers , side skirts, mirrors and other loose bits. my father did all the delicate sanding on the rest of the car.
by noon we had the car completely sanded and ready for paint. My father said this was the fastest hes done a car in years. LOL.
unfortunately, I wont be able to be there for the painting proccess. I have to work from 8am to midnight tomorrow and I will miss it. on the bright side tho, I will also miss all the masking, wet sanding, masking, wet sanding, masking, wet sanding and buffing that will happen between layers of paint and clear
sanding rrrreaaly friggin sucks.
I have to work all weekend too, so by monday the car should be read for me to get up there and put it all back together. hopefully by then worldimpex will have delivered all my parts. they can be really slow.
if the car is painted by tomorrow, he is going to send me a picture. rest assured, I will be posting it
700$ worth of tornado red, clear, sealer, primer and reducer.
high five from one Mainer Scirocco owner to another.
I forgot to mention, when we were cleaning up the shop after we finished sanding the car today, my father hit the bench with the air hose, and my "16v" hatch emblem popped up and got sucked out of the building by the exhaust fan. I looked and looked for it, but its gone forever. now I need to get another one of those
I was just about to mask it up for painting too.
I wish I had got a good side view pic of the bumpers before so I could compare em to the after pics directly.
does anyone here have a tornado red rocco with NA bumpers on it who could take a pic from this exact angle?
heres one you guys might like:
On sunday, my fiances bridal shower was at my parents house.
at the same time as the Taledega race.
so I brought up my lcd projector and we ran 200 feet of coax from the satelite dish to the garage and watched the race in there while we worked on the car
had to work all day today. between my regular day job, to running the rock wall for summit adventure systems, to mapping out an entire building to high speed ethernet for a framing company, my entire day has been booked solid.
I am finally home now, and I went to check my email..
this is what I came home to find in my email:
so yeah. tomorrow we wet sand and buff, and sunday/monday I will be putting it back together.
I keep looking at these pics! I CANT BELEIVE THIS IS MY CAR!!
700$ will buy you a box of primer, sealer, clear, reducer, and paint.
the measuring things and filters are actually free when you buy this much stuff.
come to think of it, the paint isnt even in this box. it was in the shop already.
here is a few more pics for your enjoyment.
one coat of primer, sanded.
one coat of sealer/adhesion promoter.
base coat of non oem red, (to cover the sealer and get the color started)
two coats of tornado red (standard alternate)
and I dont even know how many coats of clear are on it.. but the thing is like glass...
today we buffed and wet sanded some more and I started putting it back together. I installed a new antenna that I got from germanautoparts, but the cable to it was too short to run the oem cable path, so I had to ddrill a hole in the B pillar and spend a half hour trying to fish it down through. (pain in the ass...)
unfortunately, the pictures I took today never made it to my jump drive.. but at least I got the dashboard back in and the drivers seat.. tomorrow we are going to paint all the the black parts, like headlight trim, grill, fender wells, patches on the b pillar and around the hatch, etc etc.
and if worldimpex ever decides to ship all the rest of my parts, Ill get the rest of it put back together..
I finally found my little 16v badge that blew out the window too.
went up last night to get a look at it in the sunlight.
wow wow wow wow wow.... just wow...
world impex is holding up my order because of a backordered part. meanwhile, I am going completely crazy waiting for them to ship the stuff..
Im sure you can imagine. Im like a kid on xmas eve. cant sleep at all. just sit there tossing and turning waiting to go unwrap my new bike. lol..
fogot to grab the latest pics while I was up there, but I did snap a couple with my cell phone. will post those in a sec.
no he doesnt he painted the black on the b pillar and hatch yesterday. a nice satin black looks exactly like the vinyl.
I just called impex and asked them to mail me everything they had, and to mail me the remainder of my parts when they come in. dont care at this point if I have to pay twice for shipping. heh. I want my stuff now!
here are some pics.
(obscene finger gestures from my crazy dad )
my friend Ryan gets in the frame.
one last one with ryan showing his approval
forgive the lousy pics, I was taking them with a cell phone...
no kidding man! I cant wait!
the modification of the bumper rebar means that the skins cant just clip to them, so they need to be screwed. my father picked up some self tapping countersunk sheet metal screws and we are going to fasten them on that way and paint over the screw heads. thankfully the bumper pulls way in under the lip of the body so screws will not show.
unfortunately, I have to work till 9 tonight, and wont be able to get out there till tomorrow night. so I will sit here waiting impatiently.
EDIT: I wanted to edit this post to say that the bumper skin was Not attached with screws from the ouside and then painted over. instead I drilled a dozen or so holes through the rebar and then screwed the skin on from the inside with short coarse thread screws. it took a lot of screws to get it on really snug. when we first did it we only put 4 screws on, and I had to go back a few months later to add in a bunch more when the bumper skin started to literally fall off.
not to keep bumping up my own thread, but I didnt feel it was worth starting a new one for this.
I need new wheels.
the wheels I have are 16" genuine konig "prophets". the design has been copied by a handfull of other cheapo manufacturers and they all look like ****. even the konigs in my humble opinion. I am stuck with them because they came on my gti when I got it.
so the question is:
while considering my extremely tight budget, what wheels should I be looiking for? what size rim, matched with what tire?
right now I have 205/40/r16. they grip really nice when cornering, but they look like crap on the car. should I go with a taller sidewall? plus size the circumference a bit?
I guess I need to learn a bit more about wheels and tires..
hah, hello from a fellow mainer. thats awesome
I might have to take you up on the ecodes offer, but I am currently saving up my pennies for a set of ecodes with motorized angle adjuster from winglb. I reallyn want that motorized adjustment thing. my intension is to convert my rocco into a "power everything" car. with factory addons.
anyway. those of you who have asked for pics are gonna get your wish.
I took headed to the shop shortly after work today and found my father had put the bumpers on while I was gone. he screwed them on from the inside of the rebar out on the ends, and up from below.
you cannot see any screws, in fact, I couldnt find where he screwed them on and he wouldnt show me.
I spent all night working on getting the interior put all back together. center console, seats, windows, mirrors, door cards, and so on. the only thing I have left to do is install the sunroof, the side skirts and the wipers. then I can drive it home
one thing about the bumpers:
the trim strip would not go back in. thefew added layers of paint thickened up the slot, and the strips are really old and non flexible so we couldnt get them in. thats OK, because I just shaved the locking strip for the trim peices and they popped right in Ill draw a sketch of that when I have some time.
here you go
lets get right to what you all want to see. the bumpers. heh
not bad for NA bumpers eh?
now check out the rear.
and Ill give you one more just so you can all laugh at my huge wheel gap.
so much for sleep back to work I go....
I absolutely intended to do that actually, the DIY thread you had a while back "got bored today so..." or something like that was great.
the only problem with have two people working on a car at sep[erate times is that a lot of things like that get overloooked. and in my excitement to drive the car home today I forgot to do the extra little things like that. but they are certainly on the list.
yeah, you heard it right. its finished!
I finally finished putting it all back together today and took my dad out for a drive in it. it kind of sucks that he licves on a dirt road tho. lots of bugs and dust all over the car already.
but hey, its finally done, and here are some pics
more pics where that came from.
sure you can as long as you have really deep pockets.
mAN. I am shredded. I need a nap.
just had about 45 minutes of unprotected sleep in a computer lab here at work.
nah, its OK. I running updates on all my machines so I can doze in between clicks. every 15 minutes I would be awakened by the motion sensitive lights shutting off, and have to wave my arms around to get them to come back on. haha.
I might have tracked down a set of RM's!!! beat to heck, but I can replace the lips and paint em.
where can I get replacement parts for BBS RM's? I need lips, center caps and a gold bolt kit. sure its been done before, but I love the style and thats what I want. ya know?
I really like how they came out. there was certainly a bit more to the mod than just pulling them in and stuff. I had to fill in the tow hook holes that normally would stick out like a sore thumb, and full in the cavity in the side skirts as well.
if I do it again, I will change a few things, and take more time on others..
everything below the black line will show under the tucked NA bumpers. and with the tow hooks cut off, they look really ugly.
so we filled it. stuck a peice of cardboard to the back of it and filled it with epoxy bumper repair. very flexible stuff
same thing for the front
then the rear corner
completely filled in.
I should have formed a smaller pocket for the bumpoer, as right now the bumper overlaps a little bit and it might rub against the surface there.
I also should have done the same thing for the front, because the cavity in the front is still ugly and I overloooked it in my haste...
couple more pics
have I posted these before?
look man, no toe hook holes
thanks man. I keep looking at it, and I cant beleive that is actually MY car.
got a bunch of stuff in from worldimpex today, so Ive been in and out installing all the little extra bits here and there.
I put in a chrome grill emblem today. some people like the black ones, or even badgeless, I on the other hand like a nice chrome vw emblem on my grill
thanks that is what I keep telling him. hah
update. just rebuilt my sunroof seal.
check it out.
couple things about wheels, I took my (borrowed) 14" bbs's off my other rocco and swapped em onto this one. they are gold with unpolished lips. got a few compliments for them, but I cant stand the way they look. if they were acually mine, Id paint them black and polish the lips, but they arent!
so I am working on buying a set of 15" RM two peice from a guy in arizona. they are beat up, but some paint, a new set of trim rings and a bolt kit should dress them up really nice.
anyone know where I can get bbs parts?
OK, so my future brother in law scooped up those RM's for a song
from the guy down in Arizona. they are pretty beat up, lips will all need replacing, no centers, and cracks on the centerbore ofone of them, but the seller gave us a good break and made it worth it.
now I need to track down some centers in black and gold, new trim rings, and locate some gold bolts.
Hey Carl, I took your advice and pulled my headlights off to paint the trays. while I was at it I decided to polish my turns too. sanded off all the bumps and smoothed them all out. up to 2000 grit and then polished them to a glossy shine thanks to some glazing compound my father gave me. I couldnt beleive how it shined. it looks wet!
3m "perfect-it" hand glaze for the win.
sorry the pics suck. its hard to get a good snap of a reflector when its dark out and you need the flash.
I also worked on installing my carputer some more today.
I cut out the ashtray and temp guage and put my 7 inch lcd touch screen in there, but that made it so I had no place for the stereo so I had to cut the hell out of the bottom center console bit and mount the stereo there.
the PC itself is hidden under the glove box. its only about 12"x10"x2.5" so it fit pretty well. I am actually holding it in place with nothing but the cloth peice that hides all your wiring and stuff over there.
took me all day to finally decide where I was going to put the stereo. I was really tempted to put the stereo under the seat and build an extention for the face plate so I could put that somewhere useful. - I have done it before.
but my face plate has a slot for the cd to go through it so it would look stupid if I put it someplace on the dash.
not to mention that i really wanted a simple design with everything within usable reach.
new pics bump
OK. so one of my rims came in today. I stripped the tire off of it, and sprayed it off with a hose.
I priced out a bunch of parts at Justmatz.co.uk, sent them an email asking for a quote. this is what they said.
1150$ for a bunch of wheel parts. jesus. this stuff isnt cheap.
anyone know of a place these lips and stuff can be located cheaper?
update: took third place in the 'modified a2' class at the windsor "all vw" car show. everyone loves the paint, hates the wheels
had some pretty stiff competition. I wasnt surprised who came in first, but I was surprised who came in second, (very cool, but very dirty rally car).
some really nice cars there all around, and only two roccos. mine and that stock 87 that belongs to a guy on here.
all in all, it was a really good time. and as soon as I get my bbs wheels on there, I think I will stand a better chance of nailing 1st
this package just arrived
so according to the person I got these caps from, not all bbs "RM" wheels are made alike. apparently, some have a deeper center and certain "RM" caps will not fit.
I do not know if this is fact or fiction, but what I DO know for sure is that for the RM's with the part number 191-601-025-R, the center caps with the part number 191-601-149-K fit perfectly
for those of you wondering where I got a set of caps for this price, check here.
they were $173(us) after shipping.
I should be ordering my lips this week!
so since I have been working so hard lately to raise the cash for my bbs rebuild project, I decided to create one of those cute little blood drive donation meters with the thermometer and whatnot.
I have made some serious headway on it in the past couple days, and the graphic doesn't reflect the cash in my pocket, but I figured I d post it for a good laugh.
I changed my initial goal from 800 to 1000$ when I started calculating total costs and whatnot. I still need the lips, gold bolts, and the materials needed to refinish the barrels. it adds up!
gold obolts and wurth silver wheel paint were ordered last night from http://www.blackforestindustries.com
200$ with shipping.
my order from BFI got screwed up so I have to place it again. some problem with my CC information, they canceled my order and never sent me a notification of it.
is it worth the hassle to buy the bolts from the cheapest place around?
Im willing to try again.
anyway, the good news is, I just ordered my lips!
http://www.tunershop.com best price out there for schmidt lips.
Dear Jon Dresser,
Thanks for ordering with TUNERSHOP Online.
Your ordered following products:
4 x Outer Lip 15 inch for BBS RS/RM $ 117.- each
Shipping Costs:$ 59.-
placed the order for the bolts with BFI again, got canceled again. this time it was because they didnt have any in stock. but now another 200$ of my money is in limbo waiting to be "released from hold".
I can understand not wanting to put peoples stuff on backorder. its just kind of a bummer. now I either have to wait till they get some, or wiat till my money reappears and then order from someone else.
well, I have to consider the fact that they Do have a Lot of really happy customers. and they have a pretty good selection overall.
I just have bad luck is all.
on a positive note, this nice little care package just arrived all the way from Germany. Thanks to Santanadriver, and his excellent packing skills, everything arrived in one peice! (Thanks a million dude )
anyone care to take a guess as to what it is? (no peeking)
OK. Ill give you all a hint.
sheesh. no guessers. give up?
this is what santanadriver sent me.
complete with motors for that electronically adjustable range setting.
now I just need to get some relays and hook these up properly.
got some new mats too. they are beetle mats, but they look great anyway.
just placed the order for my new tires.
thanks to http://www.onlinetires.com for having these in stock for a good price
Make/Model: Proxes T1R
Shipping Method: Fed Ex Ground
Final Total: $313.8
well I figured I shouldnt push my luck, you sold me them for a really good price. (and still managed to completely drain my bank account
Ill get the relays eventually. but right now I have to finish getting my wheels put back together. . . .
- insert dramatic pause -
and so, I have some updates:
on friday AM last week the last two of my wheels showed up finally. I didnt have time to clean them up because I was leaving for a vacation to Colorado, (breckenridge, Vale, Denver, etc)
when I got home yesterday, I found that my new schmidt lips have arrived. these things are GORGEOUS!
here is some pics of them test fitted on one of my unfinished barrels.
why is it so hard to get a decent picture of these wheels???
the tires are on the way, and now I just have to get the bolts ordered and get the barrels all cleaned up nice.
man you hit the nail on the head there thats for sure. I couldnt even find a nice crisp clean dollar. instead I had to use an old wadded up ripped one. I even had to stuff it in the crack there to hide the rip and keep the bill from curling all up.
I should take another pic with a roll of pennies on it to show how broke I am now. haha.
I snapped a couple pics, but they came out really bad.
here they are anyway.
do you need me to retake them?
okay. lets try this again shall we?
here is the top view of the light cover and plug.
here is another one, and if you look close you will see that there is a ton of crap in the way that will stop you from using your old wire plug on it.
heres another one showing the crap that is in the way. you will need to clip your harness and crimp on a couple female spade connector ends on the wires to hook up to this.
removing the cover shows how the bulb hooks up. it has one wire coming off of it with a female spade connector, and it plugs into a male spade connector inside the cover. the brown(ground) wire comes from the cover and plugs onto the spade tab on the actual lamp housing.
here you can see the ground plug removed and my finger pointing at the ground tab.
and here is the housing with the lamp removed.
the lamp itself has the one positive lead coming off it, and the metal frame acts as its ground.
heres a pic of me eating a teriyaki steak
was that helpful?
these just arrived
got a couple of the rims all sanded down. just gotta fill in a couple dings and then I can send them to paint.
sanded the centers all down. I was amazed at how many of the scratches and curb marks came out with just a little sanding. I have two very small ones that will need a tony bit of bondo, then its off to my fathers for some high build primer and paint
heres some pics for your enjoyment.
all sanded down:
side view of the Schmidt lips so you can see how they are shaped.
p.s. I just got the bolts oprdered finally. gold bolts from black forest industries. unfortunately, no one sells the worth alloy wheel paint anywhere, so I am going to have to use a different paint...
the bolts finally arrived today, but the wheels arent painted yet so I cant assemble them
I am a bit dissapointed with the bolts. they dont look "GOLD" plated. they look gold painted...
they are also not genuine BBS bolts, but some generic no brand stuff...
I suppose thats what you get when you buy them from the cheapest place you can find em...
and I STILL cant put them together until I get the stupid flushmount valve stems. those should have been here by now, but JCWhitney sucks.
got the wheels painted monday and started putting them together tonight. turns out Black Forest Industries only sent me 115 bolts, and not 120 like I ordered.
of course, I didnt find out when they arrived, no, I waited till I started putting wheels together before I realised I fell short.
now I have three wheels ready to be sealed and one that needs 5 more bolts still. MY LIFE SUCKS!!
heres some pics tho...
thinking about these valve covers
I used to have a set but they didnt look right on my other wheels so I gave them to a friend.
now I want a set for these wheels. heh.
speaking of these wheels. I got them mounted and balanced today.
there IS a bit of stretch to them, just a tad more than I had originally expected. At least the lip isnt sticking out past the rubber and I like the way they look.
I still have to seat and balance the 4th wheel, but I am stuck waiting till my last valve stem and bolts come in.
thanks to a stroke of luck, the final valve stem and the remaining 5 bolts both arrived today when I had the morning off. here are the pics. 8)
installed my euro power tilt headlights today. havent had a chance to wire up the motors, but Ill do that tomorrow.
got some pics from the Toys for Tots gtg on sunday.
p.s. it was nice finally meeting Iroczgirl. glad you two cool cats could join us for dinner after too. hope I wasnt too over the top for you guys.
Euro headlamps are in. but I couldnt wire up the motors because I had to replace a belt
it sucks that you have to take so much apart just to replace the stupid alternator belt.
pics of headlights to follow.
I originally intended to do them black, but I changed my mind.
here are some pics of the euro lights.
I should have washed the car first and polished up the lights and turns, but it was overcast anyway so it wouldnt have helped a lot.
they lok a LOT nicer...
this is a pretty good shot, hard to take a picture in front of my house without other cars on the road. its a busy intersection
my new wallpaper [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
top view of my bumper at night.
more pics can be found here
finally got the new electronic range adjustments installed in the rocco.
no pics of it yet, but Im gonna make a video or something. range adjust is kind of pointless, but its friggin COOL.
Im gonna add a couple of my latest pics to the thread and ie myself a free bump
on my todo list for the winter:
Cruise control - anyone done this?
new headliner - not sure if I will just make my own or buy one from mr lee
Completely finish carpc install - clean up the LCD bezel so it looks nice.
New rear deck lid because mine is all beat to hell.
NEW Tails. because old and used are crappy.
New Euro turns.
I've just about finished my powered sunroof conversion - but the motor is really sluggish. I need to find some way to either loosen up the roof, or replace the motor.
I made a nice leather shift boot the other day and a leather steering wheel cover, but the leather was a bit heavy and I dont like how it came out. Im going to grab another peice of leather and try again, learning from my mistakes.
pics of that coming soon.
I haven't actually compiled the list of parts needed just yet.
I am hoping to find someone who is has carefully extracted the entire wiring harness for them so I can just buy it.
basically: there is a relay, a control dial, lots of wiring and the heater elements that need to be installed in the seats. Ive had one of my seats all apart before so I know how easy that part of it will be.
Ill be sure to post lots of info on the process.
going to be installing a new black headliner in really soon, and I got a couple samples of Alcantra (UltraSuede) in the mail today to decide what color to do the interior in.
My plan is to replace all of the icky grey fuzzy fabric from the interior with fake suede. I got two samples, one black and one red. this stuff is PERFECT. Im leaning towards the red, since my new headliner, shift boot and trim bits will have red accents in them and I think it will look like a good contrast with all of the black.
the good thing about this fake suede is that I can have it embroidered with anything I want - ie that cool new scirocco logo that I stole somewhere.
now I just need to sit down and decide once and for all wether its going to be black suede or red.
I could do black in the door cards and red on the seats I suppose..
here is a great pic of an actual Scirocco with the shade of red I picked out.
in that pick the whole seats are red. in mine it will only be the centers.
thats what I was thinking
the door cards might be hard to get right tho. this fabric isnt very stretchy. I hope I can get it to stick to the contours of the door cards without rippling.
I didnt get anything done on my todo list this winter that I wanted to.
still working on where I am going to get the cruise control system from..
heated seats may be cool, but for a car that will only be driven in the summer they arent needed.
new headliner - coming Very soon!!
clean up carpc install.... maybe some time soon
New rear deck lid got started, never finished. dont like the carpet stuff I bought.
NEW euro turns and Tails. because old and used are crappy. - yeah, when I get rich.
just placed the order for three yards of fabric, and I calculated for a bit of extra, but I just realised as I type this that I forgot to include the door cards in my calculation for requirements.. oops.
I will have to call them tomorrow and add another yard to my order.
better to have lots of extra than not enough.
correction. I will have plenty with only 3 yards. now that I think of it, I should pick up some more bobbins for my sewing machine...
Placed the order for my headliner today. should be here in two weeks. cannot WAIT to put it in!
got my seats all taken apart, just have to seam rip all the stitching out so I can reuse the old foam.
the other fabric should be here tomorrow, so maybe tommorrow night I can post pics of a finished seat
oh yes, new shifter boot was ordered as well. and I am hoping maybe an experimental E-brake boot might be included.
thanks for the compliments
made some progress on the seats over the past couple days.
more pics to come as I make some more progress...
the seat backs fo the front seats will be done last, as I am sending the material out to get it embroidered with the scirocco logo...
the material may look awful pink on some monitors, but I assure you, its a really nice red.
the wrinkles and whatnot will come out as soon asi I hit them with an iron.
got the rear seats all done:
so I couldnt decide what color to do the door cards in. the red suede in the door cards might be too much red, so I picked up some black suede too. I did one door card in each color so I could compare..
I am still stumped.
so here is the black:
and here in red:
my motto: fake it till you make it.
get yourself a good seam ripper, take all the fabric apart really carefully and use your old peices for patterns. pin it all together and run it through the machine. if you dont like the way it came out, just seam rip it back apart and try again.
I stitched all of the seams with piping by hand. my machine doesnt have the right foot for stitching over piping, and I wanted it all to line up right in the end so I used a thread and needle and passed it through the holes made when it was originally sewn together.
I just cant wait to get it all back together.
well, Ive been fighting with the second door card since the last time I posted on this thread. I simply could NOT get the fabric to fit the contours of the door card.
the first time I did it in black it went right in. - but the fabric was stretchier and easier to work with.
I did the other card in red and that went in really well too.
but after I pulled the black off this card and tried to put the red on I just couldnt get it to go. you have to kind of stretch and shrink the fabric in different places to get it all in there without leaving wrinkles and stuff. I ended up ruining three peices of fabric because I would get too much glue on there or just lip out and rip it off.
in the end I just tried to make it look neat and hide the extra crap in the corner.
anyway. I just glued it together and have a stack of books on it holding it together.
the remaining peices should be back from the embroiderer any day now and Ill be able to finish the front seats. new headliner and stuff should be here tomorrow. then I can put it all back together
on another note, the new weitec coilovers should be in tomorrow, and a bunch of megasquirt stuff..
mail man was busy today. dropped off new strut tops from german autoparts, coilovers from rapidparts.com, new headliner and shift boot from TweedleDub, and my seat backs finally came back from the embroiderer.
first let me say: if you havent ordered a headliner from Mrs Lee, then what are you waiting for?
I got mine in all black with red double stitching and I almost cried when I opened up the package. its GORGEOUS.
I cannot wait to get this in the car, but I need to find time to work on it. - working 12 hour days all this week sucks.
the megasquirt ECU came in yesterday, and I got it all built last night and into today, but thats for another thread. Tonight I chose to be productive on my seats. here are some pics of the proccess.
the old seatback
the peice is finished, just needs to the stitched into the seat. - I did the last part by hand so I could put the thread back through the old holes in the vinyl so it wouldnt look like it had been resewn.. - plus, it was alot easier than tearing my entire seat cover off of the frame again. thats no fun!
anyway, here are a couple really bad pictures of it finished. - the only good thing about these pics is that the colors more accurate than all the other pics.. they actually look more like blood red than hot pink. but my camera sucks so what can I do?
next up, healiner install
I got started on it today. I picked up a box of these "black metal binder clips" at staples.
I got a box of 144 of the smallest ones for 6$
they worked really well actually. small enough that they had to be opened all the way to fit over the liner, and that made them grip really firm.
OK so I thought I would be clever and use brush on rubber cement to attach the liner. I wanted to avoid spraying adhesive all over the cabin, liner, paint etc.
Take Note: this was a total failure.
rubber cement is NOT as good as the spray on 3M stuff. in fact, you may as well just cover it with HONEY and you might get a better bond. I ended up having to go back over half of the hatch with spray to recover from that decision. so learn from the mistakes of others.
the spray sucks to work with, but it bonds really well and fast and so on.
I had to stop half way through the install to figure out how I was gonna cover my sunroof motor thingy... I got the motor installed a while back and got it working OK, but I had no way of getting the cover to stay up. I brought the cover to the shope and fabbed out some stuff out of sheet metal that should hold the cover in place but still be removeable in the event of a failure.
now I just need to cover it with some matching material...
in case you didnt know, I picked up one of thee a while back to convert my sunroof from crank to power.
I used a sunroof motor from a audi 4000. it came with all this stuff.
I had to cut out a few chunks of metal to get the motor up in there, but otherwise the unit bolted right up. I butchered the headliner during this conversion, but it was allready shredded anyway, and I had full intention of getting a new one from Mr and Mrs Lee.(TweedleDub)
the only problem I had with it was that I didnt know how to get the cover it came with to attach to the rocco. its not a perfect fit....
so with some modifications, I was able to get it so it would clip on by way of a couple metal tabs I screwed on in strategic places. one of them would hang on to another metal peice I stuck on the crank gearbox, and the other slips into the old dome light hole.
its pretty snug actually, but not so bad I wont be able to get it off in the event of a motor failure.
I would be more decriptive, but I want to get my headliner installed TONIGHT.
and one more for the road:
well, allow me to apologize for being so wordy. I get carried away sometimes.
glad you liked the thread tho. keep checking back in the next few days becase Ill be putting my windows and interior all back in. - just need to finish the headliner first.
after that, I have a brand new set of weitec coilovers so I can dump it.
and megasquirt coming soon...
broke my fscking windshield today.
you do? Im interested.
I made a careless mistake because I was too friggin eager.
the metal strips that go along the edge of the frame that hole the gasket in place kept coming off. I was fighting with those while trying to get the stupid window in place and I was distracted, too many people around, everything you would need to set yourself up for a total failure. I stupidly stuck a screwdriver up in there to lever the metal grippy thing in place while I tigged on the rope and POP!
insert massive swearing session here.
I am so flipping mad at myself for it too. I KNOW better than to do that.
thanks man. just wait till they are all installed and I can get someone with a real camera to take better pics
made some more progress today. got my headliner all installed and looking gorgeous. I even finished my sunroof motor install and covered it up really nice. looks factory!
if you look close you can see the big crack in my windshield
installed all my interior (cept for the dash) and vaccummed it all out too.
check out these door cards
I pulled the red trim stripes out of my old GTI rally car. cleaned tyhem up a bit and installed them in the rocco. they might be too much. I dont know yet.
heres me actually working on the carr instead of taking pics.
this came in the mail today
(besides the duck, theres a read wiper motor in there)
oh yeah, these things suck.
Picked up a new windshield today. drove to Concord NH for it. 2.5 hours each way. - but hey, I got the glass
Im going to install it later tonight. Im going to keep the "gator claws" on the sides but delete the top one. I just want to ad some extra glue to the headliner so it doesnt slip.
taking the windshiedl out was easy. I did it with just my bare hands and a bunch of plastic cards (like credit cards) I never once pushed on the glass with my feet or anything silly like that. just took my time and did it right. the gator claws are partly to blame for causing the breakage on installation. add that to me being rushed and distracted and POP.
the problem with those clips is that they wont stay on. so they were coming off and getting in the way of the rope. so I stuck a screw driver up to pry the clip out of the way and thats all it took to pop the glass.
in this pic you can see how the peice curls away from the lip.
Im going to reinstall it tonight by myself without that top clip.
thanks guys. I took a long lunch and washed the car a bit. I had some spray adhesive overspray land on the body in a few places and goo gone worked pretty well to remove it, but it took a lot of time and lots of elbow grease. theres still some places I need to go back over, and she needs to be claybarred but it looks alot better than it did. (covered in a half years worth of dust)
Im going to install my coilovers tonight but I probably wont be lowereing it just yet. I have to get it inspected (friday at ten am) and I dont want them to complain about my ride height.
still no pics, but they will come...
WOOPS! EDIT FOR PAGE 8 PICS:
pizza doesnt tighten bolts as well as a gearwrench does...
some pics taken today after the coilover install:
Im going for an inspection sticker tomorrow. after that I'm gonna lower it some more.
went to napa and picked up the parts I needed around 3pm, had them installed in about an hour (30 minutes of that was spent trying to remove the old tie rod end with a pickle fork. TIP: use a BIGGER hammer.) got back to the inspection station at 4:30 and they didnt even look at the car, just came out and stuck a sticker on it. I was like "arent you at least gonna LOOK at the shiny new parts?
anyway, after I got the sticker I went back to the shop lower it and align it again. (third time in as many days)
I didnt slam it yet, but I brought it down to 9cm from lip to fender on all 4 wheels. if I dont rub at this height I may bring it down a little bit more..
got some new pics for you guys tonight. this is what I worked on this weekend.
wow, nothing like bad flash photography to point out all the ugly dirt in my interior...
anyway, for the uninitiated, the cluster I installed tonight has the "MFA" or "MFI" (multi function indicator). it uses the clock to display trip time, miles counter, average speed, MPG, engine oil temp and outside ambient temp. I took this off my GTI and adapted it to work in the rocco. it was really easy, just a matter of pulling a couple wires off the old harness and bringing them over to the new one.
I mounted some buttons to an empty panel in the dash so I could select between bank one or two, cycle through the options, and reset the stats at will. easy peasy
so I did some debugging on the MFA today. first of all, the wiring diagram in the bentley describes the two big plugs on the cluster in a funny way. instead of calling them each a "14 pin" connector, it calls them four 7 pin connectors, 7, 7b, 7a, 7c. now that would Be fine, but the plugs themselved are stamped A, B(White), C, and D, (black).
so to clarify,
bentley vs actual
t7 is actually the white plug, A side
t7a is the black plug on the side stamped C
t7b is actually t7b (one right! (white))
t7c is actually the black plug on the D side.
either way, I got it installed and it worked for the most part, but I had my reset and bank buttons in the wrong holes. once I got those switched over, I could stitch banks and reset them correctly, but now my MPG counter doesnt want to work. I may have a bad vaccum sensor...
anyone got one of these kicking around?
So we had a productive day at the shop today. Got Rays wheel bearing replaced, and cleaned up Dees coilovers and lowered it to him summer height.... but the real progress was made on my rocco, where I finally got my mudflaps installed. - and lowered the car some more...
a while back I found a set of these on ebay UK. got completely screwed on the shipping, and ended up paying 200$ total for these things.
what was also dissapointing was that the fronts didnt have the scirocco text on them, just the rears, and since I was only going to install the front ones, I was pretty bummed.
I snapped a couple pics of the car before I installed the mudflaps so you can see the difference.
in the end I decided to use the rear ones on the front and nothing on the rears. it took some heavy modification, but I got them to look pretty sweet.
I also lowered the car aanother 4 turns on the coilovers, and now its rubbing like a mother effer. - Im afraid I cant handle driving it like this, so Im going to roll em back up a couple turns to see if I can find a happy medium. - anyway, heres pics:
and the best pic:
more pics to follow
the mud flaps are an absolute must with these wheels. my rear fenders are all chipped up already, and the paints less than a year old.
I can tell already that they are working, because before I put them on every time I drove the car I would year a constant barage of tickking sounds coming from rocks hitting my paint, and now with them on the ticking has stopped
I just wish the rain would stop so I could go drive it for real.
5/18? isnt that the same day as the mvws dust off?
that was supposed to be today, but it got rescheduled due to rain.
I might go to the car show tho... are you thinking about going?
I spent all day yesteday rebuilding my alternator. it had a blown bearing and the rattle was driving me nuts.
luckily I had a spare that had good bearings. so a little swittcheroo and I was back in action. then I polished up my tail lights and turns some more. they were getting a bit dull.
I have to raise up my mud flaps some. they are draging like crazy and making an awful rubbing sound in the cabin.
took some more pics today...
I cant get a decnet shot of the headliner. they keep coming out like ass.
my cameras no good for it.
in this pic you can see the little dots where I had overspray from the glue I used. those rub right off but they are hard to see without the flash.
this pic also shows the part that I hand stitched together. I should have used a crisscross stitch, but I was trying to hand stitch it in while it was almost fully installed so I settled.
anyway, rest assured that the headliner is absolutely gorgeous!
p.s. anyone who hasnt already ordered a headliner from the Lees better get to it. these things are awesome!
and if you order now, Ill send you my Dee LUX headliner installer kit!
12 dozen (a HUNDRED AND FORTY FOUR!) extra strong metal binder clips.
place a clip every single inch and never run out!
(used only once.)
pics came out OK, but they are HUGE. Ill include the resized pics and links to the full sized ones.
click the image for the 1.5 meg version.
and the other side...
you should totally check out his project thread on Maine vw scene.
I took it out for a drive around lake Auburn today, and I scraped all over the place. had my wife with me, who is pregnant, and when she asked me why I kept scraping I said its because shes fat.
dont worry, she laughed. you just have to understand our dynamic really.
Im gonna get this made as a sticker and put it on the rocco.
Tory asked me why it sounded so awful when it scraped, I told her thats my "warning bell" telling me not to straddle the road crown.
here are a couple pics that were taken of her just the other day... FINALLY some pictures of my car that look GOOD.
got together with Randy Williams today and took about 350 shots of the rocco.
took a ton of rolling shots and went to fort williams and raided the castle. defying the clearly displayed "no trespassing" and "keep vehicles off grass" signs.
here are a few samples.
more to come...
ya know, I bet some really deep dish with white centers would look pretty sick on your white rocco..
has anyone seen this done?
its pretty risky color matching your wheels and it doesnt allways look good. as a friend of mine said it was like matching your shoes to your purse. - but sometimes it actually works.
edit: since this page lacks color:
I took it too a car show in lisbon yesterday. the first annual 'vertical outlaws' show. it was a decent show with a good sized venue and a fairly small turnout of cars. the only complaint was that the classes were a bit confuising. they put my car in with the imports, along with a bunch of tuners since they didnt have a 'tuner class'. they also put a bunch of tuners in the 'best of the 90s' class. ultimately, I got beat by a car that looked like a grey version of the batmobile. HUGE body kit....
anyway. I have some more work to do under the hood before I can really be a contender. but I have plans for it coming soon.
so as you know by now I got a custom headliner from Mr and Mrs Lee. all black, with red stitching at the seams and a matching shift boot to go with it.
To show my thanks and support to all there hard work, I decided to get there company logo embroidered on my B pillar fabric.
here are the pics:
B Pillar Install Kit
there you have it. I should have made it red and had it facing forward, and if I were Mr and Mrs Lee I would have the logo hidden behind the seatbelt so it would only show when you looked for it deliberately. ya know?
what? this old thing?
its for a MK1. no way to make it fiit on the mk2.
I paid 100$ for the damned thing because the seller said it was for my car and I didnt know any better at the time.
wanna buy it?
its really easy. you just pull the rubber back along the B piller and the top. while gently pushing the window out. just moving back and forth all along the rubber gasket rolling it back over and over. eventuaLly you will start to get the whole gasket on the outside of the car. then you focus on getting the top corner on the outside and the top rounded part of the glass. once thats out you can just lift on the glass.
it took me about 3 minutes flat to get the window back in using a rope. and I was taking my time doing it solo.
if you look at the time stamps on the pics in here you can see. 27 minutes from the car being outside, clips all over the headliner,
to being inside clips off, and window installed
just be really careful when you put the glass back in. Do not Press on the glass. let the rop do the work for you. if you press on the glass it will bind up and wreck the gasket.
if you look along the top of my window gasket on the inside, you can see where the it got torn during an install. that was the first time I installed the window in the car.
I didnt make THAT mistake a second time.
got a new addition to the rocco going in in the next couple days.
who wants to guess what it is?
I will give you a hint, a critical part of it is green, and has 17 teeth.
you got it. the speedo gear is green. and that means, 4.25 final drive baby!
a while back I followed brokes guide and built a killer tranny for my rallycross car. I have since given up on that hobby, and I am pulling parts off of it for the rocco. among them is that tranny I built, a euro intake cam, and some other stuff here and there.
(which reminds me, how easy is it to swap a cam?)
anyway, heres a chart of the gears and corresponding road speeds that this transmission will provide:
as you can see, the lower gears are all considerably lower than a stock 2y(2y and stock rocco 9a are geared the same) with 4th being an awesome passsing gear, but 5th gear has a higher cruising speed than stock, so when Im cruising along on the highway my rpms wont be quite so high. when driving the GTI with this trans, I found that I could easily skip 1st gear all together, and the gtis 2.0 16v had more than enough power to light em up in second.
I also will be dropping in the solid disc 6 point clutch for some added snag
it was really easy once I got those clips and the right glue. dont waste your time with anything less than real 'spray on headliner adhesive" its stronger than steel.
mask and spray both surfaces, allow a moment or two for it to set up, then stretched and attach. use the clips to hold it all in place.
have someone to stand by and take a million pictures.
Ive got another trans with a 3.94 in it too. but I figured why not go with the 4.25? ya know?
just that ring and pinion can fetch about 800$ new
transmission and clutch went in today and its allback together. Tons of torque, lots of shifting in city. but that fifth gear is NICE.
Im tempted to tear it apart and change the 4th and 5th gears to even taller ones
cleaned up the engine bay some over the past couple days.. cleaned up the underside of my hood and finally installed new insulation stuff in there. looks a MILLION times better.
p.s. I bought the material for the hood at a car stereo store. its the stuff they use to wrap speaker cabinets with. cost me 5$ a yard.
I made a pattern with a sheet of old plastic and then cut the peices to fit. I used heavy duty 3m adhesive, (comes in a big can and actually says right on it that its for automotive underhood insulation pads)
after masking the hell out of everything, I applied three coats on both surfaces and let them set up for 5-10 minutes before attaching them.
they seem to be on there really well.
one more thing, I did double check the flamability of the material. I used a torch on it and I couldnt get it to ignight, so I think Im OK. it would just melt when it got really hot.
anyone want a copy of the pattern?
so its been a while since Ive updated this. I have a handful of pending projects to complete and a lack of funds to finish them off.
right now I have finished building my megasquirt ECU and the only thing holding me back is the FPR and all of the fittings and hoses to hook it all up. I need about 300$ to complete the job the way I want to.
also, I recently finished rebuilding a 2.0l 9a block. all new bearings and fasteners and gaskets and whatnot, I even turned down my intermediate shaft on the lathe since I had it out. thats waiting to go in as well, but I want to do that after I get the megasquirt in and working, so I can tear it all out and respray the engine bay and clean it up really nice.
next up: since I wasnt 100% satisfied with the color of my redone interior, I have been on the lookout for a complete, somewhat good condition interior to tear apart and redo in all black. the seats that I have are awesome, but the red just isnt a perfect match for the tornado red on the body. it was close enough in some lighting, but too far off in others. I think this interior would look perfect in a silver or black car tho. And so, I got a call from a friend today who hooked me up with a complete set of seats and door cards. they are in decent shape. the vynil is torn in a couple places on the bolsters, but all the foam is good. My intention is to redo these in black and then sell my red interior.... maybe even get enough cash to finish my other projects...
so I want to say Thanks to Tony for the great hookup today, but I ask you to warn me next time you park your parts car in a poison ivy patch.
wow, I am really paying for this interior. the poison ivy is all over my legs and making a big mess.
I should have wore long pants or something. oh well.
I took a couple hits of benedril to stop the itching, and now I am totally dozing off..
I got started on the seats. I picked up the heaviest vinyl they had at joannes fabrics, and replaced the drivers side bolsters with it. this stuff is really heavy!
next up, I repaired the lower bolster foam for the drivers side. it was falling apart there and it tore through the middle. I used scraps of vinyl and ultra suede to get the thing to hold together better. I think it will last a long time. I gotta send out a couple peices of fabric to the stitcher to get the scirocco logo embroiderd on them for the seat backs.
come to think of it, should I add the text to the rear seat backs too?
the drivers side upper seat bolster is prety haggard. does anyone know where they sell liquid foam? the kind that really reselmbles the foam on the bolsters?
Edited for spelling and drowsy typographical sloppiness.
so I went to North Conway New Hampshire today for a car show. Took second place in the "import sports cars" class out of 12-14 cars. including a 2001 aston martin Vantage, three porsches, a couple jags and some others. the car that took first was an immaculate Austin Healy convertible... (no way I could have beat that)
I had a lot of poeople checking out the car. probably 20 people I talked to said they used to have one, or knew someone who did and they allways wanted one.
had almost as many people come up to me asking me what the hell a scirocco was. they had no recolection that vw ever made such a car.
as promised, here are the pics of my poison ivy.
and heres me working on my new seats.
wooo! steroids and antibiotics make poison ivy better.
mental note: next time I get poison ivy, Im not gonna wait over a week before I see a doctor.
ahh, good question. I started to try to explain, but my pics are all pretty bad so i decided to sketch up a little diagram.
compare this drawing with the two pictures below it to get an idea of how I did this. if you have one of these motors in hand it might make more sense.
I apologize for not having any better pics.
let me know if you have any questions.
got my seats all finished. now all I need to do is cover the door cards.
who wants to buy a set of rocco seats with red inserts?? they are mint, and come with door cards too.
these would look absolutely sick in a black rocco, and pretty sweet in a silver one.... they just didnt look good in my LY3D rocco.
that's a good question, and I was going to mention that the door cards I would include in the deal would actually be manual. the set in the pics is heavily modified for my speakers and stuff. plus I don't like how the covering came out, so I intend to redo them better.
to summarize, the included cards will be better, and for manual windows.
I am thinking 600$ plus shipping. youve seen them in person... think they are worth that?
edit for page ownage color insertion:
got a nice little sumthin sumthin in my mail today, Courtesty of the lovely Mrs Lee.
check this out:
I just love the finishing touches
...and the contents...
Before, when all I had was the shift boot. (also totally awesome)
After: and some more pics of different angles just because.
in the previous pics, I had installed the boot over the plastic part that usually covers the ugly ebrake mechanicals. in these next pics I rremoved that and installed the boot without it. I wanted to see what would work better and I still havent decided.
the boot fits well and looks amazing. its a perfect fit and I love it. the only problem I have with it, is my own cars falt, and not the boots.
Since my ebrakes dont really work all that well. (one of the calipers is broke) the ebrake return spring doenst pull down all that well on the brake lever, so the lever lifts up a little with this boot on, and when I start the car the vibration makes it lift up and my brake warning light comes on. I am going to spend some more time on trying to figure out the best way to fit this. and since I have a set of mk4 rear calipers to go on the car soon, Ill have my ebrake problem resolved too.
So anyway, thanks a ton to Mr and Mrs lee. you guys rock!
that duck goes everywhere the rocco goes. he sits on my dash over on the left.
Moved my washer bottle to the back today.
actually, I just ran a hose to the one in the rear. then I threw out the one from the front.
before I finally decided not to replace my rear wiper, I had purchased a two-way washer pump from GAP. I had intended to rework the wiring so the switch worked the pump both ways. but since I no longer have a rear wiper, I no longer need the rear washer jet. so I just swapped the pumps single output over to the new hose.
I ran the hose through the body to the hole under the rear seat, then over to the middle and up through the center. I ran up up behind the dash, and then out through an already drilled hole into the rain tray on the drivers side. the washer jets in the hood have a tube coming out of them that actually points toward the drivers side, opposite of the washer bottle locations. now where I have the hose coming out is actually a better spot for them.
the megasquirt project is well under way. I have been keeping a separate thread for that, but I will be posting some stuff in here as that progresses.
to sum up, I have pulled the motor, and I am in the process of shaving the engine bay. I am hoping my father can get a free weekend to help me paint it.
as it stands, every single wire under the hood and into the fuse box has been pulled. it is all sitting in a pile on the floor of my garage.
Since I am shaving the bay, I want all the wiring hidden and I will be making an entire new wiring harness for it. should be rrreally fun.
got the motor out to make way for the freshly rebuild 2.0 block.
cleaned it up a bit, but still got a long way to go.
I will be relocating my battery to the back, and replacing my coolant bottle and PS tank with nice new aluminum Canton performance bottles. (240$ worth)
its getting ridiculous how much money I am spending on this..
anyway. here is me.
has anyone notched a rocco frame before?
I got some rubbage going on I need to address while I have the engine out.
how about bags? anyone run a rocco on bags before?
I had to scroll back to figure out what you were talking about. my swiss looks like its sticking out of my cats neck.
shes a cool cat. follows me around everywhere.
here she is again:
p.s. thanks for the compliment
well, the notch is only to clearance the passenger side drive shaft since that is the one that rubs. (crashes)
my exhaust wont be affected.
stay tuned to the thread for more pics once I get my engine bay all fancied up.
WOOHOO! My father called me up and asked if this weekend would be good to work on the rocco. I said yes.
He will be coming up to pick up the shell friday morning. he wants to have it in and out for sunday afternoon so he can get back to work on the vette on monday.
on the todo list: filling holes, shaving the lumps and covering up some unsightly spots. I still havent figured out how I will be running the wiring. wether I will go under, or through the drivers side frame rail, I dont know yet.
Ill post nightly with pics of progress
change of plans: we are moving up the schedule. he is coming to pick it up this afternoon
Dad just left with the rocco. I snapped a couple pics
I cranked up the coils and slapped my rally gravels on it to keep my RM's out of harms way.
Jesus built my hot rod...
so yesterday we started in on the engine bay with lots of grinding, and welding to fill holes and stuff. I worked on it till 9:45 pm before calling it a say.
for some reason, VW puts a LOT of ugly holes in places where you cant fit a grinder to smooth out the plug welds...
we used a rasp in those tight spots with adequate success.
here is the two pics from yesterday with my moms camera before it died. lol
in the second pic you can see my father welding a bracket to hold the canton water bottle I will be using. it is a bit much, but it should look OK when its all done.
Todays progress included about 40 applications of bondo and 9 hours of sanding. my hands ache and I am completely exhausted. My ears are STILL ringing from all the grinding I did yesterday. imy sinuses are all plugged up from all the dust. I dont know how my father does it.
we got the frame notched today too. that went amazingly well.
here are some pics.
here are some pics of the frame nothcing process.
Ill post more pics of that when it is all done and painted.
Oh, I forgot a couple shots.
heres the engine all masked up. you can see which firewall holes I covered up, and which ones I left open.
I left my fuel lines and brake lines installed and just masked them over Ill have to do some careful bending to get them right when we are through.
now that we have the primer layed down we have to wait till tomorrow to sand it down. *groan*
I hate waiting, but I AM totally wiped.
It will be painted tomorrow, put back together monday and loaded onto a truck to get it home where I will commence the rebuild.
you get the idea?
we did get past the sanding tho, and layed down some sealer, then three coats of ly3d. we are taking a short break while that sets up and then we will be putting down two coats of clear.
Ill post more pics later
thanks guys. we got two coats of clear on and turned the thermostat up for the night to set it up.
as promised, here are the pics.
first, heres one more pic of the frame notch since I hadnt posted one from this angle. I apologize for the grubby fender well. I plan on coating them with black stone guard so I hadnt botherd to clean them yet.
here is the bay after the coat of primer, with a light dusting of black spray paint over it to help identify which areas still need sanding. - you have to sand every square inch of primer, so the "dusting" covers the entire bay.
here it is after a few hours of sanding....
next up was a coat of sealing primer: thankfully, we didnt have to sand this one!
while that set up for a bit we mixed up a half pint of ly3d.
here it is after one coat of base:
here it is after 2
heres my dad spraying on the clear. the only way he could get all the nooks and crannies was to get in the engine bay and spray from there.
and here it is after two coats of clear:
here is a couple pics of the fabbing done on the drivers side.
anyway, baby's cryin so thats all for now.
hope you enjoy the pics
a LOT. in fact, he says "if you have to ask, you cant afford it."
he usually takes things like this:
and does total restorations with end results like these:
heres one he built for himself for fun.
I actually considered that. but we didnt have any way to seal it up inside to protect it from rust.
I got the car home today and I will be tearing into it tomorrow. I need to clean out my wheel wells and stuff and spray them with some stone and rock guard. Then Ill probably clean up the control arms and rattle can them black. My power steering rack is still covered in grease and stuff so I need to give that some real TLC.
and from here on out, its going to be one thing after another.
yep. Dads a wild man.
here he is on his chopper.
had a couple hours of sun after work today and an extra set of hands, so we got the fender wells all washed out and sprayed with stone and rock guard. slapped a new power steering boot and reinstalled the rack. now I can move it in and out of the garage without the wheels turning out in opposite directions..
Finally bought a powdercoating setup and it was delivered today. pretty nice quality and for the price I couldnt go wrong. I got a few colors of powder, but mostly I will be using a two stage chrome and a satin black. anyone know if you can bake an alternator at 400F for a half our whithout melting the skin off the windings?
anyway. I should be powder coating like a mad man this weekend. wish me luck.
woooo! made some progress this weekend. Ive been powder coating and painting parts left and right, and slow but sure installing things into the car. I got the brake booster back in and the new lines made, and my FPR mounted with hoses run to it. I still want to redor one of the hoses because it was too short, but Ill deal with that later.
here are some pics so far:
doesnt look like I got much done, but it was a lot of work. I also got the head installed into the 2.0 block. that was a pain because the arp head studs require a half inch 12 point deep socket for a 3/8" drive. I didnt have any 12 pointers that size so I had to drive back and forth to the school twice for one.
no pics of the motor just yet, but Ill try asnd take more tomorrow.
I also started running the AC lined back in, and then I broke the sensor fitting off the short piece of pipe that goes between the dryer and the condenser. - does anyone happen to have one of these kicking aorund?
hah! when I am done with this, I will probably never want to look at another rocco.
especially considering how much money I have sunk into it. In fact, I just dropped another 240 on it. I got a flexalite dual low pro fan (#365) and a 25 psi coolant bottle cap among some other things. hope that stuff will get here quick..
I Still need an intake tube and filter.... I might just modify the GTI tube I have and get a K&N filter for it, but I dont know...
it has been suggested that I use a honda intake kit like this:
....but I dont like the hose sticking out of the top over the timing belt. why cant they just make something exactly how I want it?
what a day! I spent 7 hours on it tonight and it doesnt even look like I did anything..
I powder coated some more parts, like the valve cover. I powdered it satin black and then sanded off the "ribs" and polished them smooth. I am not very happy with the satin black tho. it looks like it has a faint brown tint to it now that I have it on a large flat area. I am hoping once it is installed in the car and viewed in the sun it wont look that way.
other than that, lets see... I got the clutch all installed and primed the oil pump, installed the timing belt and timed it...
on a side note... I realized all the hose clamps I ordered from GAP were too big... Now Ill have to order a bunch of smaller ones.
Oh yeah, and the FUN part of today, I installed the clutch plate, clutch disk and flywheel and proceeded to install the transmission. since all the bolt holes had been crossthreaded by someone trying to mount the block to the engine stand with standard bolts, I had to geta tap and chase all the threads. once I got the holes all cleaned up I bolted up the transmission and then I lifted on the clutch arm about 3 inches.
OOPS. I forgot to install the thrust plate.
so I had to take it all back apart.
anyways, pics tomorrow of the valve cover installed. hopefully!
my Flexalite fan arrived today. it is much smaller than I expected. not a deal breaker, but whatever. at least it will give me more room in there.
progress was made today and I almost got the motor in. bt at almost 3am there was no one available to help me.
- I will say that I think I will have to take the transmission off again before I install it. I was hoping to install it all as one piece.
here are some pics...
this didnt come out right the first time, so I had to do it again.
the tranny is painted with the high temp silver. it goes on funny tho and looks a little too twinky for my taste, but hopefully when it is all installed finished it will look good. - otherwise Im ripping it out again and respraying it low gloss black.
it was a while back but I think all I did was I washed it really good with simple green, and a scrub brush. I might have sprayed it with engine degreaser... uh... and maybe washed it again with laquer thinner in a spray bottle...
then I just primed it and painted it.
p.s. the motor went in this morning thanks to Mr Honda for helping me out. I still need to align the motor mounts and whatnot, but I had to put it away so I could go to work.
Oh yeah, in case anyone hasnt noticed yet, the valve cover is not SUPPOSED to be brown. that is what "satin black" powder coat came out to look like. I am NOT happy with it. the brake booster next to it was rattle canned low gloss engine enamel, and its 10 times blacker than the valve cover. I am tempted to blast off the PC and rattle can it black.
To answer your question: No, those are just rattle canned. (duplicolor high temp low gloss black)
Anything rubber or plastic would totally cook at the 400 degree curing temps for powder. I found this out the hard way when I powder coated my friends wheel and the hub centering ring was still inside it.
made some more progress tonight. got the motor all aligned and bolted up. the manifold was the worst part. I have a Eurosportacc 4-2-1 race header, and it is a peice of crap. I dont know how they live with themselves while sending out garbage like this.
let me explain the problem here:
first of all, the header was on the car when I got it, and it had a broken stud so it leaked out around the header on the drivers side. no biggie. I assumed previous owner was careless and didnt bother doing the studs right. but after I pulled the old motor and got the manifold off the car I relised that the craftsmanship of the manifold was totally subpar.
the problem was that the tubes were weleded onto the flange from the inside. not usually an issue if done right. but in this case the welds were actually sticking out so far that they were preventing the flange from mating with the gasket.
my guess is the previous owner broke the stud because he was trying to get the manifold on tight enough to seal it up. I used new studs and tightened them up as much as I dared but I dont think it will seal. as it stands now the flange is considerably bent and twisted where I had to tighten one side so much more than the other to get it to press flat. I am worried the bolts will strip out my head. if that happens I might actually scream and kill someone.
if anyone from eurosport is reading this, I have two words for you:
(all three of these thumbs are unhappy with this header)
this is what I have: (dont buy it)
oh yeah. another kick in the pants tonight when I realised that the intake manifold I spent so much time preppring for the car will not fit.
the GTI intame manifold and throttle body will not clear my strut bar. not the end of the world, sure. but I mounted the strut bar and torqued it up. I could hear the paint scratching under it. if I take it off now I will certainly find it all marred up beneath.
heres the motor and strut bar
here is the intake mani that wont work.
I considered it, but as it is, it is already in the car and installed. maybe its just spite, but I dont want to have to remove it to "fix" a part that should be perfect from the factory.
oh well. I delt with a leaky manifold for this long already, Im sure I will be fine.
got the power steering all installed yesterday. used that other alluminum bottle I got from Canton Performance for the PS overflow. I had to modify it a bit and build a bracket so I could mount it up under the passenger side blinker.
no pics yet of it installed, but here is the bottle:
also got the AC installed, but I stil need to pull a vacccum on it to check for leaks.
Hopefully Ill think to take more pics today.
right on bro. hopefully it will be running by them. hahhahahahh
anyway, doesnt feel like I got much accomplished today. I got the flexalite fan installed, as well as the alternator... Oh yeah, I found out that purple stuff disolves alluminum. I dropped my dirty throttle body in the bucket of purple stuff the toher day and forgot about it. when I fished it out today it was covered in these nasty white crystals. I tried cleaning it up, but it was too far gone.
so I took apart two different TB's, the one I melted had some parts I needed on the TB with the throttle position sensor. since the stock TB was drivers side mounted, and the TB with sensor was PS mounted, the track for the cable was wrong. it took some heavy modification to both the body and the attachments to make it work, but I am happy with the result.
no pics because my wife took the camera with her to some baby shower.
hahaah. that would be like rocking a pep boys sticker accross the windshield of your NEON.
here is what I have my eyes on:
if Im going for show, that one looks pretty sick. but a simpler solution would probably be the BBM serial killa.
but thats for another day. for now here is some pics of the latest progress. first I wanted to show off the flexalight fan mounting bracket.
I took some 1" alluminum "L" bar stuff and cut it to two 12.625" lengths. then shaped it a little for looks, and drilled some holes. then painted it black and bolsted it up. REALLY EASY. I was going to be more descriptive, but I am tired.
next up, I had to redo my intake manifold because the GTI one wouldnt fit.
so I powder coated another one and then polished the up to 2000 grit wet sand before masking it all off and painting the lettering.
working my way up through each different grit till I ended up at 2000. I used a sanding block to make life easier.
you polisgh it first because polishing it after will much up the paint. until it has fully cured it is very sticky and sanding dust will ruin it.
next step: masking. Cover the whole surface with masking taope and use an exacto knife to cut out the letters. take your time, do this right.
now take some trusty ole rattle canned ly3d and get to work.
Napa rattle cans go on really thin and tkae a long time to dry. I had to lay on about 6 or 7 coats before I saw the opacity I needed..
I taped over the parts I wanted to be black, and now I can unmask them and put the mask over the red
some black spray:
and there you have it.
a closer view...
also got my wheels installed today, and Ill be starting the wiring process tomorrow.
sure, I suppse a machine shop could. but how much of a pain in the ass would it be to - firt of all - take the header out of the car, and then how would a machine shop strap the header down to run a tool accross it? let alone the cost... But forget all that, because why the heck should anyone have to do that to a part they bought? Eurosport sells these as headers as a finished product, no where in the description does it say the word "KIT" or "some modification may be required".
I think the belt sander idea mentioned previously could possibly work, but I sure dont want to take it out of the car again.
on a lighter note, I made a little progress today. I figred out what do do with the crank vent, and spent entirely too much time and energy on it. I also got the power wire run from the battery in the trunk, but I dont know yet how I will mount the battery. I have run out of finds, so I am going to need to built a quck-and-dirty-but-solid-and-safe battery hold down.
I tried to locate a hammer drive crimp tool to do my power lugs and stuff, but they cost too much money so I made one. it works great!
heres pics of that, and the finished product..
I took out the 5th injector port thing and made a block off plate for it. then I realised I needed to have a port there for the Idle stabilizer, so I drilled it and tapped it with 3/8 NPT to put a hose barb on it.
Oh yeah. here is a funny story. while working on the car tonight, my drop light was getting moved all over the place above and below the car. at some point it picked up a straggler, and I have no idea where:
Now, I have had this car for at least three years, maybe 4 even, and I have taken it apart a BUNCH of times. but I Never came accross this thing, so I figured it might have been on the floor or something. I opened it up, and there was a key inside..
I grabbed my butterfly knife rocco key and compared the two.
it was a match!
Looks like I have another extra key for the rocco now
heres a shot of the engine.
someone asked me how I hid the hood release cable, so I snapped a couple pics.
I am too tired to be descriptive, so I am just goingto let the pics speak for themselves.
I will say that the place where I drilled the hold in the front was strategically placed to be hidden, as well as being in a spot where I could actually reach it with a drill.
yep. used napa's Stone and Rock Guard. it was like 15$ a can or something. only needed one. of course, I bought two, and already had one in my paint crate. LOL.
anyway. Today is the day that I start the wiring process. Im going to hook up all my sensors and stuff and try to get it running on MS outside of the car today. once it is running Ill put it all in the car.
here is where having that relay board will be really helpful.
got my battery all bolted down in the rocco today. drilled two holes in the trunk and ran some threaded rods through em, with a piece of flat steel accross the top over the battery. I had been considering making something pretty elaborate, but in the end I just figured, simpler is betterer..
if you like my tips, do a quick search for "Phenoms Howtos" (archived)
lots of good stuff there
thanks man. altho, that is exactly why I wanted to have you take it for a spin, so I could watch it rolling and listen to the sound of it
MAN! shes a LOUD one isnt she?
I am still at the shop. waiting for paint to dry on some parts. I'm afraid that I got too dirty while fixing my exhaust to drive the car home. Ill probably have to strip down and drive home in my boxers.
and Ken brings it back from the dead!
actually, I should add this to my thread. I finished making some custom strut caps for the rocco.
check out that project thread here:
here come the pics!
it is tricky. the cap comes off and out at an angle and then I use a funnel. and the strut bar holds the funnel up quite nicely.
it is possible, however I got this bar in trade. and how much is a autotech bar?
the material I used can be picked up at any auto store for about 12.99 for two yards. I used a 3m spray adhesive that actually says on the can that it is good for underhood insulation. the material is about a quarter inch thick, and while it doesnt actually have a "backer", it does have a fuzzy side and a not so fuzzy side.
if you look closely you can see the thickness.
I tried to light this stuff on fire, and without any accelerants under direct flame frmo a lighter, all it did was smoke and then turn to ash.
I used it for my rear deck lid too, and hatch floor. works good as long as I dont get any grass on it. (like from a grass ground mat I like to use)
Im going to make a printable pattern and put it online at some point. Ill put marks all around the perimeter so you can print each part out on a regular 8.5x11 printer and reassemble them.
when I find some free time....
hit a little snag today. been fighting with megasquirt for a while now and finally got it going again. then while Tony and I were out trying to do some fine tuning, she quit on me and left me dead in the water.
thankfully, I have AAA.
the tow guy was really nice. a muscle car enthusiast from the old days. he took extra special care to make sure I didnt scrape getting the rocco on the lift. (it helped that I turned the rocco up 10 turns on the coils before he got there)
knew what the issue was before I even got it home. so with a little wrenching
here is the culprit.
luckily, I have a couple spare motors lying around
I was able to extract a perfect specimen from one of them.
got it reinstalled, retimed, and restarted in short order.
Now, I should mention that this happened as a result of me not properly tightening that big bolt holding that gear in place. when I built this block, I had no way of properly torquing that bolt, and I had planned on doing it when I got the motor in the car and was able to have someone hold the brake for me. that never happened, and I forgot all about it.
when I got the wheel off and started to unbolt that gear, it was actually loose enough to turn by hand. the fact that it lasted as long as it did is simply amazing.
anyway. its fixed now, and I hope that some of my ms issues have been caused by this part so I can get it running better finally.
here is my 7 month old daughter, trying to help in the moral support department.
I should mention that I havent done compression test on it to check the valves, but I will tomorrow. I did drive it for an hour and a half after getting the new gear in tho, and it ran fine.
it wasnt That ****ty. only had a ****ty part. otherwise it was good.
send me those pics you took with your cell phone. Ill post the good ones on here.
sure was. did a compression check on it today. 165 on all four cyls.
(after 4 pumps)
she ran fine all the way to the dragons tail, then up to cincinatti and all the way home. 2800 miles round trip. the only complication I had was a blown radiator hosein tennesee, and another self loosening hose clamp that drained my coolant on the ride home.
it seems tobe running a bit lean. I think I might be pinging a bit. so Im going to invest in a knocksense in a couple weeks (payday) and try to finally get to the bottom of it.
of course, the sounds I am hearing might just be a nasty exhaust rattle. so here is to hoping..
since this page needs some color, here are a couple snaps of my engine bay from the cincinatti trip.
its called the "knocksense"
Took the rocco to a car show today, and got rained on pretty hard. despite the poor weather there was still a pretty decent turnout. it was a judged show, and the spectators were each given a ballot for best in show award.
I got best of the 80's, best vw/audi, and spectators choice.
there was some very slight rounding on the corners of the crank. I used a new bolt and a ton of red locktite on it. hopefully that will hold. if not, I have another crank I can use.
duplicolor high temp enamel. I think it was actually called "alluminum" color. (DE 1615 Aluminum?)
to be honest, I didnt like the way it looked when I did it. but now that it is in the car it doesnt look that bad.
and from the opinions given at cincy, I would say it has a pretty good approval rating overall.
Ive been pretty busy lately so I havent been trying to drum up any "orders"... I would like to find someone with weitec tx coilovers just like mine who wants a set first, that way I dont have to change my design. and an order or two of those would help me pay for the 30$ 14mmx1.50 tap I had to buy.
but yeah, f someone wants a set bad enough:
Thanks Sam Let me know if I can be of assistance on your journey [
got some new pics of the rocco done this weekend..
the first few were taken by my friend Jeff.
these next two were taken by the infamous LumpyA2, aka Randy Pants. (even tho he allways wears cammo shorts)
I got a bunch more pics to come. just waiting for them to get processed.
Hi Nate, not sure exactly what fuel lines you will need for your 1.8t swap, but what I used was all "AN" type fittings and the appropriate hoses. if you click page 1 of my megasquirt thread, you will find links to where I got everything, and in the first few pages an explanation of it all. - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3734966
this is probably not the answer you were looking for...
yup. thats the one.
you can also use these:
these are good because you just cut your old line and slip these down over them and tighten them up. this way you can shorted your lines a bit so they dont stick so far up in the engine bay, and you dont have to try and track down a fancy flaring tool.
just got some more pics finished from my July photoshoot.
thanks goes to Randy Williams of Portland Maine for taking the time to make my rocco look good
sorry, that was two and a half megs of pics... I probably should have spaceed them out a bit. heh.
this spring actually. I never got around to finishing the install in the console, and I was having a lot of problems with it killing my charging system. so I removed it. now I have a little netbook instead
yep. got all my decals made by drfrasercrane. e can do all kinds of colors. send him a PM.
I whipped this up today. its a stat board to put with the car at shows.
edit: I made a few corrections here and there. fixed the miss pellings, fixed the EBC/mintex snafu, and added a couple things.
what do you think?
I just made a few modifications to it. got rid of the word "custom". since the whole friggin thing is custom,it would be pretty redundant.
oops! not sure how I missed that.
went to an all vw car show in Maine today. not sure how many other cars were there, but I won 1st in A2 modifieds, as well as "Best Paint" AND Best in show. I was floored..
didnt get any shots at the show, but my wife took a few of Valentine.
I've been meaning to make a stat board for a long time now, but I just couldnt decide how to do it. when I saw your post for 81type53's scirocco, I finally got that last kick of inspiration I needed. I was trying for something a little more simple. Ive done so much to this car, I am sure I have missed one thing or another, and left plenty of stuff out on purpose. but in the end the important things are mentioned and it looks pretty nice.
Ive got a couple things to correct too. IE: I didnt know that the displacement of a stock 9a block is Actually 1984cc. and not 2032 like I put on my board... OOPS.
Ill have that corrected in my next revision.
thanks I just got back from another local show, took 2nd in the "best of the 80s" class. iut was a perfect day for a nice laid back show. tons of american muscle and stuff.
pic for page 18 color
Spent sunday working on the rocco. I had a couple hoses blow since I went on the cincy trip. was pretty sure that I had a blown head gasket and was getting exhaust gasses in my cooling system. so little by little Ive been replacing mall my old hoses, and that is a huge pain in the butt.. anyway, I ordered a new head gasket, - metal laminate this time - and got to work installing it.
once I got the head off, I was able to see the problem right away.
here are some pics...
my initial guess was that I damaged it during installation, but in retrospect, there is no way that could have happened, since I installed head studs and slid the head down on them. so something bad must have happened when I was attempting to tune megasquirt. I did make a couple mistakes during the initial setup that caused the car to backfire and stall. that must have deformed the ring around piston three and then over time allowed it to seep gasses out into my cooling system.
anyway, new MLS gasket is installed, and I took the time to plane down my crappy eurosport header so it actually seals. the roccos a lot quieter now too!
I didnt hide it. I removed it, and then I just ran a new hose out to the bottle in the rear.
I bought a two way washer pump with the intention of installing that so both my washers would work, but since I dont have a rear wiper and I dont drive in the rain, I really dont need it.
uh.. thats a good question.. I dont know why it wasnt mentioned before.. I guess I said a little something about it on page 14, but yeah, basically I used an alloy power steering resovoir from canton performance, and then I hid it in a space just below the passenger side headlight.
it fits in there perfectly. and in fact, I had enough hose and space in there that I could have just used the stock bottle and I think it would have fit OK.
why thank you CuRide.
Ive put a lot of work into it, thats for sure. Still have a few things left to do too.
so yesterday I went out to my garage to put away some tools, and I found my mountain bike on the hood of the rocco.
my previously immaculate hood now has a massive dent in it, sevreal smaller dents, and paint chips and scratches all over it.
my garage is impossibly small, and the only way I can fit anything in there is to stack it up on the walls or hang it from hooks. well I tried to get the bike out of the way in order to get at some screws I needed on a back shelf, and then I left it there.
I havent taken any pictures of it because I am too upset to even look at it.
true... I finally messaged my father about it yesterday. I was too ashamed to tell him in person.
he texted me back and said "it can be fixed"...
I looked at it again today for the first time. its pretty nasty, but it looks like it only got the hood and not the fender and bumper, so at least theres that...
thanks guys. your generous compliments and positive reassurement is very helpful.
it might be spring time before I can get the rocco up to my folks for repair. Snow is flying now and I dont want to risk getting the undercarriage covered in salt.
I could always take the hood off and bring that up in my bus, but there are other things I would like to have touched up on the body, like rock chips on the bumpers, valence, fender trim and so on.
thanks for he compliments guys I actually won "Best of Show" at the "New England Dustoff" this weekend. Im pretty pumped about it.
and now that I have some more spare time, I am going to get to work on a few things Ive wanted to address for a while now. first of all, since PCV oil catch cans are ridiculously expensive, I am going to make my own. havent decided what Ill makeit out of. it might be just pvc pip and caps. it will be hidden anyway, so it doesnt matter what its made out of.
and next up on my list: I ordering some alluminum sheet metal and I'm going to make a new brake fluid resovoir. the hunk of dirty old plastic on top of my booster is a total eyesore. I figure I can make a nice tank to match my coolant and PS tanks easy enough.
I have never tig welded before.... but how hard can it be?
wish me luck guys!
debating on getting a new afr gauge for the rocco. Ive got the lc-1 G3 gauge right now,
the g3 gauge is nice because it has 14.7 straight up and is really easy to read, but its really bright inside the car and doesnt match my current gauges.
the one Im looking at getting looks a lot more like the stock rocco gauges. its not as modern, but its not supposed to be.
so yeah, I dont know..
you bet I do. if you've got any particular one in mind, let me know and Ill get you a nice high res version of it.
EDIT: Man, with this new format, every time I post I land on a new page. ahh well, rules are rules. - and in accordance with rule number one:
OOPS! sorry about that. I looked through my collection and I cant seem to find any high res pics of the railyard and graveyard..
Ive got a couple wallpaper shots tho, 1920...
some of my older pics are in here, in small format: http://www.angrymods.com/projects/sc...s_Photography/
when you find one you want in large format, go here
Today I scored some new parts Ive been looking for for a really long time now. I picked up a rear hatch with the small spoiler, scirocco lettering, and wiperless glass which I am totally pumped about. once my father is feeling better, I am hoping to repaint my hood anyway, and now Ill redo this new hatch and the grill spoiler I just bought as well. I have always wanted to shave the lock off the hatch and install a electronic popper too, but just hadnt got around to it. now Ill have plenty of time to do that before I get it painted.
I also scored this baby. this is something Ive been looking for for a long time, but no one has any of them.
this is the plastic trim cover piece that goes on the hatch if you dont have a rear wiper. it makes it so you dont see the ugly metal section where the wiper used to be.
heres the before shot
please forgive my crappy photography. its a the best I can do.
My entire hatch, spoiler and all will probably be for sale one I get the new one painted and installed.
Thanks man, all credit for the paint goes to my dad. I did everything else, but the prep and shooting was all him.
I'm really sad to say it, but he was recently diagnosed with lung and liver cancer. He started chemotherapy on wednesday, and while the doctors are remaining optimistic, I am still pretty scared. all those years of smoking and working with toxic chemicals is hard on a guy. 50 years old is too friggin young.
so as it turns out, I might be painting my rocco parts myself this time around.
thanks for the l wishes everyone. it means a lot to me. I'm just trying to stay positive and keep my fingers crossed. you never know how this sort of thing can go...
My father past away last week after the cancer finally destroyed his liver completely. he continued to work right up to the very end, fullfilling his promise to finish his friends 1970 Barracuda. My brother (in law) and I spent the past couple weeks helping him out as much as we could so he was able to finish the car on Thursday the 4th.
By Tuesday the ninth he was gone.
this picture was the last pic taken of him, when we finished the car on the 4th. he drove the car the end of the drive way and back, just so he could say "There, I drove it..."
Rest in peace old man...
I think Ive covered this before somewhere in this thread or another, but rather than search for it Ill just run down the math again real quick. (for practice.)
get your thinking caps on...
First, lets remember that the offset, or ET is the distance in MM +/- between the centerline of the wheel and its mounting plane surface.
the stock BBS RM 012 is a 6.5" wide 14" 4x100 wheel with an offset (et) of 33mm.
the stock lip is a half inch, and I removed it to put 2" schmidt alloy lips (which I got from tunershop.com) incleasing the outer rim by 1.5" and thereby creating a 8" wide wheel, and changing the offset to a precicely calculatable degree.
So if the wheel is 6.5" wide and the ET is 33mm offset from the centerline and we increase the width by adding to the outer edge, the offset will reduce by one half of the overall width increase. so the wheel got wider by 1.5" (38.1mm), half of that is 19.05mm, subtracted from 33 is a new ET of 13.95mm.
we can prove this by a little more thinking.
6.5" is 165.1mm. take half of that and the centerline is 82.55mm. plus the ET 33mm puts the mounting surface at 115.55mm from inner edge.
8" is 203.2mm, center is 101.6. since the distance from inner lip to mounting point is still 115.55mm, the ET is simply the 115.55mm minus 101.6, which again equals 13.95.
oh, and my tires are 195/45 r15 Toyo Proxes T1R