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Nkreig's K16 Geartronic Build
Compliments of nkreig @ forums.swedespeed.com
With the K16 on its way I felt it's only proper to start a build thread. I'll start from what the car looked like when I bought it 3 years ago with a little over 6,000 miles on the clock. On our family trip to my folks place for Christmas we turned over the 40,000 mile mark. The car: A 2007 S40 T5 AWD GT...
In stock form!! Oh the memories!
Here are the mods as of 1/10/2014
Engine: 2009 B5254T7 swap.
Elevate K16 turbo kit with AutoTech K16 file
Elevate Wastegate actuator
Elevate Performance intake manifold
Elevate air intake
Elevate turbo intake pipe
Elevate IC silicon hose kit (Blue)
Elevate Setrab external oil cooler
Elevate AWD 3" DP
Elevate AWD 3" sport catback exhaust
Elevate Wilwood Big brake kit
Elevate SS brake lines
Elevate rear engine torque mount (with revised bushing)
Elevate rear anti sway bar
Elevate AWD lowering springs
EuroSport front strut bar
IPD HD coilpacks
NGK iridium IX plugs (1 step colder)
Heico Bilstein strut kit
Heico GT shifter
IPD replica 18" Pegs (summer)
Nexen N5000 235/40R 18
Sport Edition 17" silver (winter)
General Tire Altimax Arctic 235/45R 17
SPC rear camber kit
EBC ultimax 320mm rotors front
ATE premium one rear rotors
Akebono Euro ceramic rear pads
Volvo R-design steering wheel
Aluminum gas, brake and dead pedals
Miller Motoring HID kit
Led DRL's and license plate lighting
rear lip spoiler
Volvo front lip spoiler
custom gauge pilar
PLX wideband A/F touchscreen kit
ProSport premium electronic boost gauge
Tule roof rack
Tule bike trays
Tule wind deflector
Bluetooth adaptor for stock stereo
Di-Noc front grill surround
Plasticoat black rear emblems
Next up was getting rid of the wheel gap and addressing the handling issues. So, on went IPD replica Pegs with Nexen 5000 235/45/18's a Elevate RSB and Eibach springs...and a much needed Thule roof rack to hall the bikes.
After getting the handling under control I installed a boost gauge in prep for a stage 1 AutoTech/Elevate tune.
With the tune installed and the suspension feeling a bit more prepared it was time to turn my attention to the Braking. On goes the Wilwood kit (6 piston calipers in the front with ATE PremiumOne rotors on all four corners and Akebono ceramic pads in the rear)
How about that sound from the 5 pot!? Elevate cat back does it justice...
More updates to the build to come later today, I got snow to shovel!!
Thanks guys, here are a few aesthetic changes I have done already...
Front lip with duplicolor truck bed liner coating to match the factory trim.
Blue LED DRL's
More suspension improvements were needed if I wanted to get the handling dialed in right. The stock struts just didn't cut it for performance and comfort and I wasn't keen on the idea of coilovers on a daily driver with the crap roads here and winter trips snowboarding. So Heico kit it was! It was the only kit I could find for an AWD that fit my needs.
Somewhere in the mix of things mentioned a rear lip and new bike trays got added...
Most recent mods have been EuroSport tuning front strut bar, Miller motoring 6000k Xenon kit, and some new winter shoes with General Tire Arctic Altimax 235/45/17's.
Order was placed today for DP, full Elevate intake (filter to turbo inlet), Full 2.5" hard pipe kit from turbo to throttle body....More to come!!!
Umm, good info guys but could you please start another thread on emissions. I would really like to keep this pertaining to my build. If I have issues with emissions after the k16 is installed I will certainly bring it up then.
Back to the build. I have many goodies expected to arrive this month and will get good pics as they come in and are installed. Most are supporting mods so reviews on each are to be expected. On a side note, to this date I am not aware of a larger hard pipe being made for the AWD platform so I will be sticking with stock for now.
Today the full air intake and full intercooler/hardpipe kit arrived. I also picked up the extra silicone piping for the K16 swap as well. I am just awaiting the DP and K16 to arrive then another big order will go into Elevate for the remainder of the goodies.
TOO cold to install anything today so keep an eye on the thread and i'll surprise ya some day!
Ahhh, couldn't wait. Here it is....
The sound is unbelievable!
Slasher, its 8mm diameter tubing.
MNIWT, Here are some close-ups of the bracket and one of the linkage clearance...
Don comes through once again!! I'm back on track.... the best part is it's in stock!
Just wanted to give a quick update to the actual build part of my thread. Today I got an email from Don that everything is a go on the K16 with the exception of the software. So monday I made an appointment with the dealer to get the most up to date version of software so the tune for the K16 can be written. Apparently the file that is on my car now is old and is not compatible with what needs to be changed for the tune. The other missing link is the DP for my AWD, Don did not have any in stock so the new order should be finished in about 1.5 weeks. I am in no hurry but I can almost feel my back being pressed firmly into the seat with a grin stretching from ear to ear now!!
Just got home form the dealer and I am a bit disappointed right now. I received and email about the k16 software for my car the other day telling me I will have to get the EMS (engine management software) updated because the version currently on my car can not be overwritten for the k16 file. Supposedly I needed to go to the dealer and get the most up to date software version for my car. Well, I made an appointment at the dealers for today (40 min away) and woke up early to beat traffic to get down there. They connected my car to vida and 20 minutes later come back to tell me I already have the newest software available for my car and it was just updated last july with my 37,500 mile service. So, now i do not have any idea what my options are. I emailed Don to see if there is a solution to writing the file for the version of software currently installed but I am doubtful since it was already attempted without success. It is just not clear to me how a file cannot be written for my 07 when there are several k16's both m66 and aw55's tuned for the K16 already. If this doesn't work out I may go looking for an RS4 and forget about going any further with this car. I was fully committed to taking the S40 to the next level but the odds are being stacked against me.
Still working on the software issue but in the meantime this arrived yesterday...
I finally got time to properly fix my Elevate intake pipe. When I was doing the initial install I broke one of the vac connectors off the back from the tension. Today I ground off the old nipple and rethreaded a stronger brass fitting to the pipe.
Then, I ran new 8mm inner diameter silicone tubing for the vac lines to make everything more flexible and less strained. The blue also goes with the black, blue, and silver theme I'm going for in the engine bay.
Here is the fitting dimensions for anyone who needs to repair theirs...
Next up is to install the new pads in my Wilwood BBK. The pads that come with the set are too soft of a compound and the wear entirely to fast!! I called Wilwood and they recommended the BP-20's for extended life and higher heat index. When the K16 gets sorted the brakes will be seeing higher heat and some track time so it's best to get the stopping sorted before...
Well, it looks like i'll just be coming to you then! Don't worry, I'll call ahead of time and schedule an appointment the next time we need them changed!! hahaha
I just want to add, with the Akebono ceramic pads there is a period of "break in" not "bedding" like I called it in my prior post. The manufacture suggest you not brake hard for the first 500 miles (e.g. high speed stops) durring that "break in" period. It does take a period of time for the ceramic pads to start performing to they're maximum potential and it's been awhile since I did my last replacement with these pads so, I cannot recall how long that time period was. As Greg stated they do feel "weak" for that period of time, however, after they "break in" they have great bite and far above average wear life. Not to forget, low dust for those who hate cleaning their rims every week!!
I wish I had some good updates for ya but last email from Don was on June 22nd
Yes, they finally got it done. Not sure why it took so long.
You should hold about 14/15psi under full load.
Disregard any "stage" naming--you have the file tailored to your parameters/bolt-ons.
Still working K16 for you..."
Wish I had more to share, believe me. I have been having a lot of fun with the newest tune but, am still waiting patiently for everything to get buttoned up for the K16 to go on. Don reassures me that they are still working "the solution" whatever that may be. lol I had the car in for a service the other day and the service manager, mechanic, and guy who washed the car all told me they love my car. The mechanic said it was the coolest S40 he has worked on and complimented me on keeping it tasteful. Here is the loaner they gave me....
385HP V8 Jaguar XF
Finally!!!! After a long wait as some may already know (December 2012) Autotech should have the software complete this weekend and Don has processed the order on the hardware to ship out.
Today I took delivery of these gems!!
Some other bits...
And a little more low than the Eibachs.
So, I pulled one of my rear Eibach springs off tonight and it was shorter than the elevate. One other thing I noticed is the Elevate spring is black and I always thought they were blue? Maybe it is due to my car being AWD that they are black. I would hate to install my springs to find out they actually sit higher than the eibachs! Lol
I have an 07 but it only has 43,000 miles. but thanks for the thought.
Things we found wrong while tearing down. Loose exhaust manifold! Two studs were tight and the rest were loose and leaking around the gasket on the left side. The engine torque mount from Elevate is shot (I emailed Don for his solution so more on that when I get answers). The downpipe had two bolts holding it on. The tech feels due to the excessive movement of the engine from the torque mount and the exhaust manifold being loose that is why other parts were working loose. Now the pictures...
how about I try to get my 1st reaction on video!
I have noticed people disappear after their k16 goes in! Maybe they hit light speed and warp to another dimension!! If that doesn't happen to me I will be certain to post pictures and video of what it is like. I will not forget about the community fella's. I really want to give others an idea of what they are going to experience if they go this far. The only reason I choose to take the leap with my 07 is because I have low milage and I have prepared the rest of the car for this day i.e. suspension, brakes and all the supporting mods. If it breaks then I'll fix it. I even went to the extent of replacing the front hubs and the transfer case angle gear collar sleeve. These things are extra expenses to ensure the car can handle the new found power. I just want to give a shout out to Madden for inspiring me from the very beginning to work towards this point. The rest of you contribute a hell of a lot of useful info that has saved me time, money, and disappointment in the past. I only hope to return the favor by documenting my own experiences.
Here is a before with the stage 3 shot while I was in mexico...or maybe it was japan, I can't really recall. My speedometer reads in leagues so it looks like it reads 80 or 90 in the video but its really only 30mph...anyway...
That is where a proper tune comes into play. I happen to know of several pre-08's that ran the k16 without any issue for a couple of years now. My car is out of warranty, paid off and ready to be built. If the cylinder sleeves give then it will just get dartons in place. Things fail at this level and that is something you just have to take into account. If it breaks you make it stronger.
As for the bolts, they are all copper coated. The shop doing the work now is very experienced, just look at what they work on above in the pictures. I was the one who did the work in my garage at home prior to this. I will continue to do the small things myself to keep maintained. The engine work is for the pro's.
Got the car back today and it is throwing a code for misfire on cylinder 2 so we replaced the coil Cans cleared the code. On the way home it threw a code again and I need to take it back over in the morning for troubleshooting. I may need to pick up IPD's HD coils. When it's running though it feels very strong boosting to 22psi. I can't wait to see how it does when running proper. Sorry guys, no vids until it's sorted. :/
The Tech loaded the wrong tune!!!!!! I was running on my stage 3 tune. Loaded the k16 file and OMG!! My only issue is I need to get the proper tcv, one of the nipples broke of and they got one from volvo that works but does not match the part # of the old one. I am emailing Don for one of his and getting coils from IPD. Lastly is the torque mount, I will order the focus mount later today and hopefully have it all installed by next friday. I am preparing some video but I have to be careful with the tcv that is currently installed...peak boosted 26psi a few times and it was time to stop until the proper parts are on.
A lot of fluctuation in the idle but once you hit boost it ran nice to 22 psi. I was misfiring like mad at idle though.
With the proper tune loaded I am seeing 24 psi steady and peaking at 26. I have to get the TCV from Don or the proper stock one on because it just isn't quite feeling right yet. When it gets over 22 psi it starts cutting out and boost spikes up to 26. I ordered the IPD HD coils and am waiting for Don to get back to me on the TCV. The stock one would have been fine if we didn't break the one nipple off!! lol The other thing I am waiting for is a new torque mount to arrive. funny thing is I am not getting codes when it cuts out at high boost? We are going to datalog the next day I have off with the new coils and TCV if the problem persists.
We have the stock part #30670449 in right now and it still isn't right. It seems to be improving, like maybe the ECU is adapting or something? I need the coils bad, it cuts out when I am up around 24psi. Sometimes it will run poorly then all of the sudden come alive almost like it is either pulling fuel, boost or timing? Now we just have to figure out which one is the cause. I just dropped it off this morning at the shop, I think it has an exhaust leak coming into the cabin!! I was dizzy and had a bad headache after driving yesterday. I hope it gets sorted soon because I hate to be without my car and it is just too much fun to drive when its right.
Gap was good on the plugs however, two plugs were cracked on the insulators! Lol hamfisted tech!? They ordered a new set for me (on them) and my elevate tcv and IPD HD coils are on the way. Right now it has the stock plugs back in because of the two cracked proper heat range. The stock tcv is adapted now and boost will peak at 26!!! I am starting to see how much of a beast it is. Once the new plugs, coils and TCV are in I think the only issue will b gas and tickets. Lol video's will be had as well. Because of the new sound a cop followed me around last night for about 15 minutes just waiting for me to do something wrong. As for the CBV, I have the one from elevate.
We put the heat shield back on. Just a few bends and it fits.
A/F ratios are in the same ranges as the stage 3. Around 14 highway speeds. I will see what it drops to when it's on full boost.
@TG, you 30 minutes away...no reason why u can't ride shotgun some day! I'll introduce u to the guys from fast company. They race high end cars in the vintage Grand Prix over at schenley park
I just got the IPD HD coils delivered yesterday and according to FedEx tracking the Elevate TCV should be here some time today. I did pull on a new Mercedes on 279 yesterday and the car isn't even running right at the moment. I can only imagine how well it will perform when it is sorted. I ordered an E-focus mount last night to get my solid shifts and steering feel back. First and second feel much more responsive but 3rd it just takes off! It is very hard for me to explain it because the difference between 18 psi on my old tune and 25-26 psi with the k16 is very different. I hope it's even better with everything working together.
Kova, you must have missed my previous issue. I had the NGK ILFR7H's in but when they were installed two of them were over torqued and cracked the insulators causing misfire issues at high boost. I had to run the stock plugs until the new ones arrived. So, today the new set of plugs (NGK ILFR7H) arrived and got installed with the new IPD HD coilpacks. We did a leak test of the intake and could not find any leak so the we cleared the codes and nothing reappeared. The car is running much much better however, because we reloaded the tune it has to adapt to the TCV again. It feels a little dead off the line limiting boost. When I got home the new Elevate TCV was on my door step. I'll get that installed at some other point because the stock one on it is brand new.
Kova, did you ever notice the TCV needs a few drives for the ECM to start adapting properly? With all the work that has been done I found that it needs a few cycles of driving before it starts to react allowing smooth linear boost. It will restrain until fully adapted.
If the Mass airflow circuit code returns then I may just buy a new one. I had a K and N panel filter for a few years and it may have gotten an oil film on the sensor as many of those filters do.
Just an update: I installed a new MAP sensor and It didn't correct the misfire and lumy idle issue so, I am dropping the car off at the shop Friday. I also put new pads and rotors on the front. ATE does not make the PremiumOne rotors in 320mm anymore so I went with EBC Ultimax slotted rotors this time and back to BP-10 pads (softer feel). Hopefully, they get the idle and misfire issues sorted this friday. I want my smooth S40 back, not this vibrating diesel!!
Today I woke up to some messages from the shop that did my k16 swap saying they tried the stock injectors and a few other things trying to sort out why my car won't idle right and misfires. They could not find a solution. We have replaced all the sensors but the fps. So, I'm racking my brain thinking what could be going on here! It ran fine before the swap so what is the issue!! Then after reading some stuff in older post about rough idle I found a thread of Kruno's talking about the check valve adapter and I thought to myself...the last time I looked under my car the O2 bung looked as thought it had the check valve adapter on it. I should have not second guessed myself and asked the shop how they connected the check valve. Well, the car is at the shop and I can't verify if it was the adapter until Thursday when they reopen. So, i walk downstairs and open the box with the old turbo and WTF!!? the check valve is still in the old turbo!!!! Thursday some heads are gonna roll! I hope this solves my problems once and for all.
Throttle body was cleaned with the swap and the MAF sensor is new. This is an easy part to overlook. I think the guys just thought the check valve adapter was an o2 bung extender for the cat and when they tried to install the check valve I bet they saw the threads were different for k16. I'm sure they just thought it was a simple nipple connection and put a different connector on instead of a valve. Easy mistake. I read other threads of this valve failing and it causes the same symptoms as my problem. We will see if this is the end of my problems. Lol
The check valve is connected to the intake side of the turbo and routes to down by the lower intake plenum close to cylinder 1 and 2 on all t5 engines. The check valve allows air to go into the intake path through the valve but a little ball blocks the air if it try's to go the other direction. Since mine was not on it was presenting the same symptoms as am air leak between the MAF and throttle body. I found the problem only by chance because it would never b discovered with a leak test. The valve threading is different between the ko4 and the K16 and requires an adapter that comes with the Elevate kit. Some have changed the threaded section out with the focus check valve. This requires a special tool or a beer can in Maddens case! Lol. The fact that I went down and looked my old turbo over and discovered the check valve still in it was truly a Christmas miracle for all who believe!
Did a speed run on the parkway coming home this morning and at around 26 psi the car went lean and the check engine light was flashing!! I coasted it to the side of the road and tried to restart it---nothing. I popped the hood and when I opened it I saw oil on the flame trap and front of the engine!! I'm looking for the source of the oil when I see the cause!!! Wait for it....wait for it.....the silicon hose from the cold side of the turbo to the throttle body must not have been tight and popped off! lol what a relief that was! I thought for sure I blew it up when I saw the oil. I cleaned the oil off and used a penny to tighten the clamp back up till I got home. I think I might get t-clamps for all the connections and piece of mind. Next on the list is an Elevate intake plenum and install the retrofit kit that is coming for the rear engine mount from Don. I am really debating the addition of a water methanol injection for that added safety. More than likely I would just set it up the same way Madden had his.
I am pretty certain I either cracked a cylinder or blew the head gasket when I ended up along side the road the other day. the car is running but I have white smoke coming out the exhaust and there had to be a reason for that oil by the PCV system. I am going to be in deep on this repair and I hope it didn't crack a cylinder.
Thanks guys for the prayers especially. After deliberating with my wife we decided to have the shop pull the engine apart and see what happened. Regardless of what we find, the engine will be reassembled much stronger than prior to the tear down. We both feel too much was invested into this car to just pass it on to someone new. I contacted George to get some insight on what he suggests for taking the bottom end to the next level. If the engine is getting opened up then darton sleeves and forged components are going in. Estimated costs are steep but they are still cheaper than a new car. I could get a used 2.5l lump and put in it but who's to say it won't pop too? Stock engines don't bring peace of mind anyway.
To answer your question quadcamsix, the short answer is the RS block is stronger. I do not know for certain but, the 08+ block is supposedly stronger than the 04.5 to 07 blocks. It is not uncommon actually for the cylinders sleeve to crack on the older blocks. I am not the first to have this issue but there is a common factor in most the cases...the tune. I was boosting 26 psi which is too high. The tune was fixed with the second file but I think the damage may have already been done. Before we installed the second tune the car was back in the shop trying to sort out a misfire issue. While we were checking things over looking for the cause, a compression test was performed. Results were not to pleasing: 1=132, 2=118, 3=118, 4=120, 5=118.
This car is a lot of fun with the k16 in the short time I spent with it but it is only a car. No matter what you put into it, it will always be a loss. It is going to be awhile before all is fixed and buttoned back together but in the mean time, my family and God are my primary focus. I'm sure this is a lesson for me and I hope in some way it is a lesson for others. I let an object become a desire for me and it was taking time from what is truly important to me in this life. I have seen the same story happen with others too. As for me, i'm going to take it as a positive situation and make the most of it.
Just watch your boost and afr for overboosting and lean conditions. I just think my situation went bad from multiple mistakes during the install i.e. important to have the check valve installed and the proper tune loaded. lol Everyone makes mistakes and the shop who performed the work has some very upstanding fellas who are not turning a blind eye to the mistakes and are attempting to right this wrong. We found that the #4 and #5 cylinders look as though they have cracks in the liners and the clearance on cylinder #3 was far beyond spec due to the cylinder taking on the shape of an egg! It is what it is. I spoke to George at VIVA and he is getting all of the parts list together along. I am really leaning towards sleeving the block so I will call Darton later this week to get shipping details and the such. Compression ratio will be dropped to 8.5:1 with forged Wisco's and sent to Darton to be matched to the bore's if everything works out right. The head is disassembled and being sent out for pressure testing and clean up. Hopefully all is AOK with the head. I took pictures and here is a link to another site where I posted them up... http://www.volvocarclubsa.co.za/view...=4560&start=30
It's difficult to make out the damage. Some that have looked at them on other sites say they just look like ring scratches. Regardless, the bore is out of spec and compression was low along with coolant leak. Guys, do not run Dino oil in your turbo regardless of what Volvo recommends!! U can see in my pics of the head there is cooked oil in there. I switched to Mobil 1 synthetic and when the rebuild is done that is all I will use---synthetic. It does not break down from the high temps of the turbo like conventional oil.
Do some better research.
There are quite a few K16 swaps and most are successful. I had issues because of the shop that installed it only had experience with tuning R's which is similar but not the same. Nick has lots of money and Deon from ACT in South Africa to do his tuning with data logging in real time. The rest of us have tunes sent over the internet from across the pond--- much different! There are a couple of C30s out west, a V50 in Sweden, a C70 in Croatia, a V50 in South Africa, a couple of C30's and S40's in South Africa all running K16's without a issue. I am sure there are others out there running a K16 as well that we are not aware of too. There are also many ST focus running the K16 in the UK...some successful and some not. There is one focus ST with a stock block (same as our block) using a simple block mod putting down over 500hp successfully.
Some other info for all to drink up. Your stock pistons are graphite coated and you all have fracture split forged rods. The issue with our block is the weakness between the cylinder liners due to a expansion gap. The later Focus ST's have changes to the depth and width of this gap. Some UK tuning companies have a mod that fill this gap and some have a machined piece that fits in the gap around the cylinders strengthening the top of the cylinders. I personally believe the issue always falls upon the quality of the tune and adapting the cooling of the engine to the upgraded power. That is why some are failing and some are not. These are my own opinions so take them for what they are---opinions. I have been researching a lot from forged internals to Darton sleeves to B5254T block failures. In every failure I have found I talked personally with or read their own findings as to what the cause was. Every one was due to a botched tune, overboosting, lean condition or missing check valve causing a overboost and lean condition (me).
Furthermore, the engine builder gave his findings today in regards to my engine. The head was fine, no warping, or leaks found. The cylinders on the block were out of spec and they were thought to be ring gouges and not cracks in the liners. Cracks develop in between the liners on this engine not where my thought to be cracks were. Mine also never reached the top of the liner.
Anyway, my car should be done next week and is getting an external oil cooler and newer long block with 28,000 miles at no cost to me. I will keep the old long block and head. The head is great and will be a backup and the long block may get the Dartons at some point, we'll see.
We are doing the Setrab unit which also expands the oil volume to 7 quarts. This is a little overkill but it will ensure the added safety I want after all I have been through so far. I now have a spare complete engine with bad liners that can be built up when the funds are appropriate.
Kruno, just to add upon the info we provided regarding the expansion gap between the cylinders, the gap on the older blocks have a narrow and deeper expansion gap 0.50mm wide and 14.5mm deep. The new design (which is the same as the RS block) has an expansion gap 0.94mm wide by 5mm deep. Both blocks have suffered the cracked liners because our engines are running 9:1 (higher) compression and the RS runs 8.5:1. Through my research, this is why the RS has less (if any) cracked liners occurring, along with the fact that the RS has a longer dwell exhaust cam also reducing heat. In my experience working extensively with two-stroke race motors I know heat kills, I feel our blocks can handle 400+HP reliably if you put lower compression pistons and proper cooling. Cams would certainly aide in improving this cooling. The larger oil cooler from the RS is a MUST due to the increased temps and as a matter of fact, should be included in any K16 kit in my opinion. I agree with you completely Kruno, the block mod is not a fix and the Volvo engineers had to have kept it there for a reason--even expansion of the cylinders! The guys with the lower compression pistons are pushing the #'s and not having problems with the RNC block.
As for my build, I have changed my focus to reliability as the #1 factor. Others can do what they want...period. I want to prove that this block can handle the K16 for many miles to come and the only way to do that is not overlooking any details. I switched to Mobil 1 fully synthetic prior to the build, BIG oil cooler, BIG transmission cooler and close maintenance! The guys at the shop will know the B5254T very well by the time they are done with my car and anyone in the area looking to do the K16 will be able to have them as an option. I really have put them to the test! lol It is what it is.
The first thing we are going to do after reassembly is data logging. I want to drive around for a while looking at all parameters making sure all is within normal running conditions. This summer I will data log on the track to do the same thing. I want to know the areas of weakness if there are any after we finish the build and address them right off! I could have easily called it quits and traded the car for something new but after some long discussions with my wife and prayer to God, I am all in.
This morning I came home from some errands I had to run and started reading some threads on a South African site. I believe after careful consideration, It would be in my best financial interest to enjoy my car the way it is until it dies of old age. Rather then build up the old block I can take that money and invest in a truck for a third vehicle. The expense of building a forged T5 is BIG $$$ and still a risk because of all the variables involved. Dartons if not installed perfect can drop from the different expansion rate of the aluminum and iron. That is from a simple heat cycle of the engine. Darton recommends a very specific break in on a dyno as well. There have been issues with dartons and head gaskets failing...and the list goes on. To take on that endeavor would be a very dedicated task that should be left to a single man, a very wealthy man, or someone looking to get out of a marriage! Lol in all seriousness, I just want to get my car running sound the way it is and go enjoy it on the track in a safe environment like I initially set out to do and not get caught up in making it anything more than that. I also found that married men with children like myself hold out until the kids are through college then, buy the Porsche! By that time the new 911 turbo should be vintage enough that I can afford one. .
If anyone is single and looking to build a angry forged beast of a P1 let me know. I have done a lot of research and can point you in the right directions for what you will need and where to get it.
BTW, the old engine is out of the car and after some closer inspection cylinder #5 has a crack right by the expansion gap (between the cylinders).
Got the car back tonight. The new engine is installed with larger RS oil cooler, Elevate intake manifold, and newly designed torque mount. They fixed my tcv as well! I have the Elevate TCV and it was mounted to the firewall like the instructions but causing a clicking sound in the cabin. They rubber mounted it and noise is gone. The newer design torque mount transmits more vibration for sure. Maybe with some miles it will soften some. They detailed everything and it looks great! I had to drive home in the snow and the ECM needs to do some adapting yet before I can get into the boost again. I'm so pleased to have it back.
I have to give it up to the guys at Fast Company! They picked up the engine Tuesday and had it completely installed and drivable today!! Simply amazing work. Not only was it running, it was detailed like a new car. I'll get some pics up when the snow melts.
Here are some pic i've been meaning to upload.
New style locking DP bolts:
lonely DP wondering where everyone went!?
New lump with a shine and a happy K16!!
This is a true sleeper! RWD V8 and the only indication is the larger tailpipe sprinting away from you
Lol, I was actually looking for this post on Tapatalk this morning (not an easy task). I took the car in for the first post engine swap oil change Wednesday and readjusted the wastegate to crack at 8psi yesterday morning. The TCV is still learning the new crack pressure but the car is running the best it has since the turbo swap. Power is everywhere and linear as it should be! It holds strong to 20psi without overboosting.
Some other things I addressed were, replacement of both front struts due to a pothole casualty suffered this winter and an alignment. So now I have B8's in the front heico (Bilstein) in the rear and Elevate springs.
Now that everything appears to be sorted, I want to turn my attention back to aesthetics. I've had a few ideas floating for awhile now and it's time to make them reality.
I still owe a video to you all as well! I think a may get to that today
Sent from right over there.
I picked up the Elevate external oil cooler kit from Don and decided to use the RS heat exchanger and keep the Setrab unit for a tranny cooler. It will mount right in front of the radiator and keep the gearbox fluid happy at the track!
Here is a short video for you all.
That run is only partial throttle and the tcv has not completely adjusted yet. The K16 makes our cars a beast. It is hard to get a good run showing how truly quick the car is and stay legal! lol The good videos will just have to wait for the track.
For those looking to install a gearbox cooler mine is 14x5x2" deep. The hose and connectors can be found on eBay or from most online performance sites like summit
Sad news for the the Volvo today. She is now in the hands of a Toyota dealer here in Pittsburgh in exchange for an IS350 with some tasteful mods and a 3 year warranty. I will miss her but it was time to change my focus a bit and put cars further down the list and move family and my house up. I will post some pics of the Lexus when I get a chance. I do have a bunch of parts to get rid of but the K16 was not one of them. I had to leave it on the car due to the time and expense of removal and replacement of all that goes along with it. Keep an eye out in the for sale section and I will be listing a few things that have never been used or only a few miles on them. It was a very hard decision but I prayed on it and I am at piece with moving on. Fun car and anyone on the fence about the K16, its FAST! I'll still be around. Just remember, I still have a V50 T5 AWD
Just some cell pics for now. Just got some f sport antisway bars from FedEx yesterday. It will only have Lexus performance parts(F sport) installed...period. Ok, maybe Ohlins, but that is it!!! Lol
Well I'm sticking around man. Still have this in the family!