Motorized bike build

5 minute(s) of a 23 minute read

8-16-18
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It looks like there is still more to bore out of the drive gear before it clears the hub. There is a chance I’ll get a new wheel at some point but I’m going to make it work as it is. It was too late in the evening to start grinding away at it so I’m saving that for later.

As for the front wheel, I went with an upgrade to a much stronger wheel and tire combo at the advice of the bike shop guy. With the roads being as they are I don’t want to take any chances. The disc screwed right on.

I put the front fork together with the caliper mounting bracket. It comes with some lock washers to keep it together. There aren’t really any  instructions which seems odd for something important like brakes.

Here is the caliper, it bolts right up to the bracket. Clearance and position seem good.

Got it all mounted up. It’s really looking good! Installed the clutch lever and line. The line is really long, I’ll have to get a shorter one at some point.

I lost the screw that holds the line so I’m momentarily stuck.

The front is really looking good. I found a cool looking light that I’ll buy when further along. I want to get different handlebar covers than the ones in the kit. 

Shouldn’t be too long until it’s operational!

9/4/18

Got the gear bored out some more so it clears the hub so the back wheel is all sorted now.

Installed the gas tank and the little intake booster. It is supposed to smooth out idle, throttle, and make it a little peppier. It basically adds intake volume. 

According to Bikeberry:

“As the engine draws fuel and air in through the carburetor on the intake cycle, the spark plug fires this mixture forcing the piston down and forcing a small amount of leftover air/fuel back into the the carburetor. As the air and fuel mix is forced back through the carburetor and intake manifold, it causes a double rich mixture which can result in a rough idle and hesitation. Primarily, the leftover air/fuel mixture, already burnt from the previous cycle which provides little or no oxygen, is cycled back to the next intake cycle resulting in bogging/ sluggish throttle response.

To take advantage of the leftover air/fuel mixture, the Boost Bottle kit provides storage for this "pre-atomized air/fuel mixture" or the leftover air/fuel mixture, leaving the intake cycle fresh and unburnt. As the piston makes it next cycle and draws a new fuel and air supply into the cylinder, the "pre-atomized air/fuel mixture" that is stored in the bottle returns to the engine as a burst, forcing the atomized fuel into the engine. In result, the boost bottle provides a "boost"or supercharge effect in engine performance.

This boost bottle works best at lower and mid-range rpm and when you are on & off the throttle. The advantage is that it brings up the horsepower and torque in the bottom of the rpm range, to mid-way through the power band (eliminating bogging).“

I’m going to replace the white zip ties with red ones which may look better, or I’ll go with black.

So far it’s looking pretty sick. It is nice to sit on it and get a feel for what it’s going to look like. 

All that’s left is getting the throttle, brake, and clutch cables the right length and hooked up, size and attach the chains, install the ignition and fuel lines, handlebar grips, probably a new rear tire and I should be ready to ride.