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5 minute(s) of a 30 minute read
2-2-2013
Jeonsah wrote:
Great build so far. I have a question for you because I am going to have a similar build.
1. Since your running a completely rebuilt engine with a new EMS system, how are you going to break in the engine while getting it to run?
I have been thinking about this and I dont know how tuning a fresh unbroken in engine would work when using a brand new ems from the first start up...
I broke in the motor on the stock setup before I tore everything down and before I installed the cams. I was a little worried about breaking in the cams but its really not that bad. The ecu will just be rough at first but it will be fine for breaking everything in. The way you do the initial startup then shut it off, mess with things then start it again etc kind of works out for breaking in the motor. By the time your ready to do dyno pulls the motor will be ready.
OST- I'm anxiously waiting to see the dyno numbers too. I cant wait to see what this motor can do. Hopefully ill be well above 130 hp but I dont want to get my hopes up. Ill post it as soon as I get it.
2-4-2013
So far the AEM route has been ok but there are a few things that were annoying. The first is that the AEM only sees a falling edge trigger signal but the GZE CAS only puts out a rising edge signal (or maybe I have that backwards). To compensate you have to rewire the GZE CAS and there are no instructions anywhere about how to do this. The other problem I had was getting the computer to connect with the AEM which is still somewhat of a problem. It seems the AEM only likes certain computers for a reason I have not figured out. Another annoyance is that when connected to the computer, the AEM will not turn off one of my injectors when the car dies. This is bad for obvious reasons. Yet another annoyance is that the software has issues if you don't password protect you map.
Like I said however, these are mostly just annoyances. The good things about the EMS 4 are that it can support sequential fuel and ign, as well as, up to 8 accessories, it can work with stock sensors, it has a seemingly fast processor, good map resolution, US support with willing but not always helpful tech support, and is only around $700.
Knowing what I know now I would do the same setup if I wanted an ITB'd 16 v but if I started a new corolla I honestly think I would run an f series Honda motor and would have saved a lot of money. Although I would have lost a lot of coolness points.
Keep in mind that my car is not finished. I'm sure ill be even happier once my car hits the track.
2-5-2013
runkillerrabbit wrote:
i also had in issue with the trigger signal. i couldnt offically figure it out. thats where i got stuck on my build.
mines currently at the tuners right now.
ill ask them how they wired up the CAS
also
im gunna be spending few bucks getting a dyno tune from FSR want that tune mapping for a small donation?
Let me know what they did for it. I don't need any mapping, I already have a rough tune and a running car. Really Grant just has to figure out a bug and then the car is ready for the Dyno.
Thanks tho.
vovinamer wrote:
ethergore2 wrote:
Knowing what I know now I would do the same setup if I wanted an ITB'd 16 v but if I started a new corolla I honestly think I would run an f series Honda motor and would have saved a lot of money. Although I would have lost a lot of coolness points.
I hear ya completely on the loss of coolness factor... I used to be a huge advocate of Honda f20 swaps into the ae86 as the performance per dollar figure would trump the 4ag any day, but me being older and more wise after having a few ae86s and other high performance vehicles (s2000, Evo 9 se, b8 S4).. And looking into an aircooled 911 and of course another ae86 resto... I realized the 4ag is part of the reason for the 86's spirit and value.. And an f20 swap would devalue the appeal of the 86.. IMO...
I guess for me the coolness factor didn't really do it because I'm just not that nostalgic. I love the AE86 platform but I wouldn't be afraid to swap in whatever I needed to in order to reach my goal. With that said, my goal is to create a super rev happy, simple to maintain and understand, street legal go-kart with amazing throttle response run on sequential fuel and ignition control (no waste here lol). I believe the setup I have was the cheapest and best way to get there.
Thinking back I considered a black top swap but with those you never know how many miles are on the motor once you find one. I figure my setup is basically like a new car. I have rebuilt the entire drive train while simplifying everything electronically. Some may think a EMS is not simple however I think once installed they are much more simple to understand. It's just basically air and fuel with few other variables.
