1SC Stripper Build by Heyfred

6 minute(s) of a 209 minute read

Redid the line lock button. 

1-17-2016

Scaled the car .

200lbs setting in the drivers seat to represent the driver. Going to have to get some more lead if I want get the balance closer.

Note: The right front is light with the battery in the stock location.

3-22-2017

Some time since I have been able to stay focused on the car. Being with and taking care of family. As of last two years, we now have two proud Marines, my grandsons.





My main focus was chassis tuning. A friend loaned me his scales and I spent many hours with the car on them. Getting to understand weight distribution.
Shooting for 53/47 front to rear weight bias. Note: All adjustments were done with 200lbs sitting in the drivers seat to simulate drivers weight

Right front is light and moving the battery to the rear would have made it worse. Note: I did not take pictures of the corner weights prior to balancing and I wish I would have. Also, prior to balancing, spring length was different when adjusted to get set for ride height. Front springs, 3/8" difference, rear, 7/8" difference in length.

Once the car was balanced, I was able to change the front and rear spring rates. I did the spring rates for sprung weight. What I did, was remove the front coilover shock from the car, put the wheel back on and measured the free weight by lowering front suspension on the scales. (80lbs). For the rearend, I disconnected the rear swaybar and shocks and lowered the assembly onto the scales. (290lbs, divided by 2. 145lbs per side.) To get the numbers to come in, I ended up having to have a full tank of fuel and add 90lbs of lead to the right rear.

Now, the front springs are within an 1/8" of overall length and the rear are .040" of each other of overall length. I did not measure till the car was balanced. I let the scales tell me where to adjust.

Have not been to the track, but on the street the frontend rise is not as violet and the car has more of a forward motion. Have the shocks set at 50/50 so I could see what affect scaling has. Big difference. will tighten the car for the track.

3-23-2017

The next upgrade, was making the sure the front end alignment would stay. All the adjustments are done with the lower control. Being I do my own alignments, I wanted make sure the alignment would not moved over a period of time.

When building the car, I welded washers to make sure the alignment stayed in place.



Having some down time, I modified the K member in a way that the adjustment can be altered easily, removable inserts.



Upgraded the front wheel studs to longer ARP ones and Champion aluminum lugnuts.

Champion lugnuts with stock studs.



ARP studs.

Made a Bumpsteer kit after getting the car suspension set at ride height. The bumpsteer is terrible with 3" of travel, over .125". After correction, less than .020". All the upgrades paid off, car drives and rides much better.

3-28-2017

Rain just won't stop, just keep getting things done and off the list. Changed trans fluid to HY-Guard, drilled,safety wired drain plug and made some straps to support the rearend as I raise the car on the lift. Only thing left, is a some paint work on the suspension work I did. Need warmer weather. Buy smaller 275/60/15 MT drag radials. Currently using 295/55/15 which is over killer at my HP level.