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3 minute(s) of a 100 minute read
2-3-2014
Front of the car disassembled and getting ready for the part out. Strut housings and front axles are mint, which was a nice plus.
Sending my intake manifold out to Curt Brown so he can work his magic on it.
Hopefully picking up the M52B28 crank and E rods this week. Once some parts are sold I'll send the block and head to the machine shop. Going to deck the block 0.5mm, use a BMW HG, and hopefully that will put me around 9.8:1, which should work nice with the Bimmerheads 274 cam.
It was pleasant to see a brand new clutch in there. One less thing I'll have to buy.
Is it imperative that I get HD rockers, or can I just use my stockers?
2-5-2014
Thanks, man. You see, I wrestled with the same thoughts.
First and foremost, I am so ridiculously partial to the coupe it wasn't even an option in my mind. However, I did take some time to consider it, and the car has rust in the same places as mine, specifically above the rear spring perches, which I already repaired on the coupe. Also, the fenders are rusted on the corners, the typical front sunroof drain points, battery box, etc. To boot, there are a TON of imperfections with the sedan on the interior as well that the coupe doesn't have. Basically, the sedan looks good and is PERFECT for a part out, as it's very mechanically sound, but for me to drive the car I would need OCD meds haha. I do want the heated seats, though. Once I put my fresh valance, hood, and fenders on the coupe shell look just as pretty! On and the pitted wheels don't help the case either. I have everything to make the coupe nice, I'm
just waiting for the weather to break. The coupe also runs 10x better than the sedan.
Don't know if you wanted that detailed of an answer, but those around me had the same suggestion, until they sat in/drove it.
The cam I was most interested in was the Bimmerheads 274 stock regrind. Looks like it will offer a low/mid range bump in power, while retaining stock drivability. I've had too much cam in pretty much every car I've built thus far, so keeping it moderate and smooth is definitely one of my goals this time around.
How is harmonic vibration/balance on your motor nando?
Rod angle and r/s ratio will obviously be less conducive to high revs and skirt/bearing wear, but I'm wondering if you notice it on the M20 like you do on the 4g63/4g64.
R/S on the 2.5L is 1.8 and R/S on the 2.8L (M52B28 crank [84mm stroke] with the E rods [130mm] is ~1.55. Definitely a significant decrease, enough to notice premature rod bearing wear if you're revving to 7K, I would think.