1934 Dodge Full Body Off Restoration by Ian_Greenlaw

By diyauto
( 4 )

1934 Dodge Full Body Off Restoration 

Compliments of Ian_Greenlaw @ aaca.org


After learning that Pat ( Landman ) started his thread well into his restoration I'd thought once I reached a certain point of mine I'd do the same.

I figured that hopefully everyone would be alive by the time its finished ( including me !) which later upcoming threads I'll explain that one.

After watching a neighbour many years ago rebuilding and old Whippet I always wanted to restore a vehicle and admired many at passing club runs and shows.

Finally I decided that the look of the Ford 34's had beautiful lines and loved the shovel nose grill. I'm not sure overseas but in Australia these were very popular with hotrodders and a lot of these guys had deep pockets. An unrestored one would sell for $15,000 and upwards. I looked at a number of Makes and haven't given very much thought to the Dodge brand until I saw an add in the paper. Dodge 1934 Sedan 6 Wheel Equipped US Body $3200 ono. 

This looked interesting and after talking to my wife I set off to have a look at it. Cost also played a big part as we had just bought a business, new car and three small children but having a project like this, I would be at home incase I needed to look after the kids. The date was 6th May, 1998.

Anyhow, when I arrived at the house to look at the Dodge all I remember seeing was that big Grill looking at me. The owner had spend 5 years stripping the car in a tiny garage and then it sat there for another 20. The only thing still on the chassis was the front wheels, body shell, 4 doors, rear mudguard and a running board. He also painted a lot of parts in Bitumen Paint. The owner said it was approx 95% there ( more like 80% ) and it was a good solid body ( got that part right ).

With a walk around his yard ( where the panels were ) and inside the house ( where the rest of the car was in boxes ) We agreed on $3000. He also had the original 4 digit plates but wanted $3000 for those. I didn't have the money but was happy with the car and couldn't wait to get the 3 trailer loads home and start sorting. Looking back it is probably easier if you pull the damn thing apart yourself....at least you know where everything goes and can label everything.

Over the next lot of posts I have to scan some of my old photos ( prior to our digital camera ) and I'll try to explain what order I did things in. 

Hopefully it will make interesting reading for anyone thinking of restoring a car. As I dont have some of the technical skills like Bernie or Pat who can turn their hand at almost anything which I admire, I'll try and make up for in photos etc..

Dodge Advert.pdf


Thanks Pat. I've got receipts and a book that shows what I've spend ( maybe not a good idea ! ) and dates so hopefully it will be fairly close.

I hired a trailer and on the back of my new Grand Voyager ( Dodge Caravan I think ) picked up the Dodge. First time it had seen daylight in 20 years.

The previous owner ( Harry ) had a tiny garage so he could only work on one side at a time which is why a rear guard and running board were still attached.

All the panels and seats were put in the car through the roof so it looked like the car had its own swap meet inside it. Harry had parts in every room in the house and he was trying to remember where everything was. I made sure things like headlights, differential, gearbox etc. He assured me he would keep looking once I took everything and he would contact me if anything was found. He did just that and we still contact each other. The rear diff was removed and a free wheeling axle was fitted in its place so he could still move the car with the diff out. I loaded crates under the car and in the back of my new car and eventually made 3 trips to get everything. The car would be at my mothers house while I worked on it as we lived at the back of our business and really had no garage to speak of. Harry also gave me a folder with hand drawn diagrams of how things were removed and various other information he collected along the way.


Got the car in the garage still with all the stuff thrown in the top and started to pull everything out. Removed the remaining running board and rear fender, removed the rear seat ( front one was already pulled out ), pulled out the front metal toe baors ( covered in bitumen paint ....yuck ), took off the front fender support. The upholstory was in bad shape so just ripped it all out but kept the backing boards for patterns later on. When I pulled the back driver side panel off near the back window there was, in white paint, " EMP MAR RH DR" . I knew the Model is a DR and that RH was for Right Hand but couldn't work out the other bit. My Mum came out to see where I was up and I showed her the writing. She took one look at it and said thats probably the colour...Empire Maroon. Never ceases to amaze me what people retain ! So now its down to the front suspension, gearbox crossmember and the four doors. I thought I'd leave the doors on as this would give me something to do while the chassis is at the blaster / powdercoater and I could "bag and tag" all the parts I toom off it.




Started pulling the front independent suspension off an found a lot of bitumen paint again. Also tackled the gearbox crossmember and did have a fight with one of the bolts but I won that round. Once all this is done I'll send the chassis, crossmember, running board brackets and as much as I get get hold of to send to the blaster and then the powder coater. Next step the battery support brackets and the body. I'll start pulling the small stuff from the body once the chassis has gone to the powder coater.




Ok, so I sat around long enough pondering "what the hell have I done" and thought that its time the body came off the chassis. I figured I didn't have that much to start with so I might as well start with nothing ! Used a heap of Penetrene and suprisingly the bolts undid fairly easily. Put two saw horses on either side at the rear and jacked up the back then slid a piece of wood under the main body. I had already built a frame made from pallets and four wheels which will keep the chassis low enough to fit under the raised up body. You can see the amount of muck stuck around the rear spring hangers but was confident that a trip to the blaster would fix this. Once the body is off I'd thought I would have better access to the rear spring so planning a bit ahead I'd remove those next and also the battery case support brackets.




Hey all,

With the body off the chassis I was able to get to a few other brackets that I had seen under the car and remove and tag those. Also removed the battery holder and springs. Found a sort of foam buffer around where the petrol filler tube goes into the tank. You can tell by the rusty chassis that there will probably be a bit of pitting in the frame. I'll send the chassis off the the powdercoater as well as the running board brackets and that should be a good base.





When I had to make this decision I did have conflicting opinions about which way to go and I can see the merits of both. When I got the chassis done it was basically two times. i.e. the blaster went over it twice, the etch primer twice and the coater twice. So far I haven't had any issues ( like Keiser ) and no problems with bolt holes. It is good however to hear what other members say and experiences they have had along the way. Plesae keep posting as everyone learns along the way......especially me !



I intend to coat the front suspension components, bell housing and gearbox with POR15.



Hey all,

With the chassis off to the blasters I made a starthaving a good look at the body. The back ( where the luggage rack is or should I say was ) is all bashed in from reversing into anything and everything. The doors look in pretty good shape and as far as rust goes, rear wheel arches, bottom of front cowl and front inside where the timber floors go. So not too bad in that department. I took a few shots inside the car to get an idea of what it looked like and proceeded to rip out the old lining completely. Pulled out the windscreen hinges and rear seat hinges. Found the rear window winder but the other side is ceased up and I may have to rebuild it. Got some good shots of the rear bump stops for the doors too.




HI everyone,

Received the chassis back and I must admit it has come up really well. It amazes me how much pitting rust does cause even in a chassis. Given that the chassis is suprisingly light and my brother and I can pick it up quite easily. All the other brackets I sent came up looking really good too ( gearbox crossmember, running board brackets, chassis extension and spare wheen carrier brackets ). I also got the brake drum backing plates done at the same time. I wirebrushed the rear springs and front suspension parts and coated the front suspension parts with POR15. The POR15 does come up a treat on uneven surfaces but you do have to be careful not to have any grease / oil left of th parts otherwise it wont stick at all.

Till next posting



Okey Dokey,

I wire brushed both wishbones and then painted with POR15. I did buy some new springs but have since replaced them as they sat offside. Checked at the bushes etc and this is the photo of me mounting the left side in place. I was the only way I could think of to get enough tension. I've seen people use spring compressors and I've also seen the damage they have done. This was the first photo taken on the progress after we built our house. I made sure I had a garage bay for the Dodge. When we designed the garage, I opened the car doors and measured from door to door fully open and then allowed a width of a person as well. It has worked very well and I am lucky and have a large amount of room.




After receiving back the brake shoe backing plates I also have all the shoes relined and the brake cylinders resleeved in stainless steel. I bought new boots and also new felt seals which I had rivited to the backing plates. At the same time I remode all the brake and fuel lines. I wire brushed the outers of the drums and had them all machined inside so hopefully will give good braking for a number of years. At the same time I went to the Ballarat Swap Meet ( for our overseas friends if you ever come to Australia, go to Soverign Hill in Ballarat and experience the life during the gold rush, it keeps getting better and better ). At the Swap I picked up brake and petrol line clips, 2 hubcaps, high tension lead wire, 12 volt condensor for the distributor, crankhole cover and a few other odds and ends that may come in handy down the track. I was also lucky enough to pick up an original 1934 Dodge instruction book from an add in the local paper. 




Hi Ben,

I know that in 1934 Dodge started using independent front suspension but due to the higher cost I imagine went back to a single beam axle. This went on for a few more years but I'm not sure of the exact dates. I know there was a thread that one of the other guys had the dates but I imagine your thread you mentioned relates to all makes in general. Anyhow when I find it I'll post it here for you.



Hi Jim,

I'm glad the pictures help. If you look at the first couple of posts you'll see the car on the trailer. There was basically nothing from the front of the firewall forward apart from the front suspension. Inside the car was nothing either. Everything was dismantled or pulled apart. Even the engine was in 500 pieces. If you ever get stuck on anything, or where something goes just drop me a line and I'll be glad to help where I can. I'm still asking questions as I put thing back together and whenever I catch up with anyone with a 34 I always take photos which I often printout, carry out to the garage and fit that particular part. Can you post some photos of where your at with your project and when you bought the car ? We all love photos !!!




At this point I was talking to a few members of the club I belong to about restoring a car and the thing that seemed to be constant was that they often worked 12 months ahead. In other words, for example, even though your body isn't finished start looking for the windscreens etc.. This was good advice as I then starting to sort through things and look for parts / bits I didn't have. Little did I know that 5 years later I would still be searching for those hard to get parts.

Any how a club member put me onto this chap who makes Windscreens. My rear vent windout windows were broken and the frames rusted into tiny fragments. I took what I had to have them remade. When I arrived at his workshop he was in the process of hand making a new windscreen frame for Himler's Mercedes ( the third reich ) which eventually cost the owner $25,000. I showed him my bag of pieces and he said he had done some before and still had the patterns and has the pattern for the main windscreen. I decided to order them on the spot as his work is impecable. I also went ot a swap meet and found a few original sales brochures which I often enjoy reading and looking at. I also ordered a new wiring harness from Vintage Wiring Harnesses in Sydney. They had the setup for a 34 Dodge Sedan which I had modified for horns and indicators. This also, when arrived, was something I was amazed at the quality of work people do. This was cotton braided and had little tags to designate where each wire went. I didn't have a set of horns yet but as my frient said start looking now for 12 months in advance, so I started looking for a pair of horns to suit my 34 Dodge......not an easy task.

I got a phone call from my Windscreen man and the rear 1/4 vent windows were ready to be picked up, but the front Windscreen would take a few more months as he had a lot of work on at that stage.



Hey all,

Now Christmas has now finished and the family have gone to all the sales I can continue with the forum.

I've attached a photo of the wiring harness which when thinging about it did a fantastic job. It has little numbers at the ends of each wire and a sheet of paper explaining what each wire is for. Th efront windscreen was also finished so I picked that up and put, lying flat and covered, on the top shelf in my study. I found the rear window winders in a box of bit so I checked them out. I found one was broken so I set about repairing it as I has two broken spares ( from the previous owner ). Ground off the spot weld joins and pulled apart. Replaced the offending cog and reassembled. I took it to a friend of mine who spot welded the joins again and it worked ! I regreased it and wrapped it up....another small job done. The diff was also pulled apart by the previous owner and he also had a lot of spare parts for both the diff and gearbox. Again as I didn't pull it apart I took both to a specialist who had experience in rebuilding them and advised me the correct method of installing in the housing. What he didn't tell me was that it could go either way around. I had a photo of a friends diff so I mounted mine the same way. When I temporarily mounted the axles ( again of which I had 5 spare ones ) I couldn't quite figure what was wrong. Yep you guessed it I had it upside down so when I wanted to go forward, I would have done backward ( 3 gears of reverse and one of forward ). I contacted the guy I had the photo from and his was fine so I rechecked mine and the alignment and everything aligns up now and I will be able to go forward in 3 gears ! I was also lucky enough that the previous owner also cleaned out the fuel tank so I rechecked it and gave it a coat of fresh paint.



Hi Keiser,

I know it sounded a bit dumb but I stood there and thought which way does the engine turn. Then I looked back at the diff then back at the front and the more I looked the more I wasn't sure. Finally I had a break and then it all seemed to make sense. I thought to myself....you prawn what was I thinking.

The joys of restoration and confusion.

Someone else said to me once.....there are never any problems only answers ( obviously never restored a car ! )


Hi everyone,

I pulled the radiator out from under the house and checked it out. The top oulet was completely rusted away however the previous owner had made a new one from Copper. I took both parts to the local radiator shop who had done some older cars before. They advised that the two tanks would be reused as well as the side mounts but the core was beyond repair. They replaced this, pressure tested it and sprayed the entire radiator black. Interesting thing is I temporarily fitted it to the housing and it fitted right in, with only one hole needing minor adjustment. Again a competant tradesman I wouldn't hesitate to recommend.



Oh yeah, you may ask why I didn't get the original honeycomb pattern for the core. Probably as it was triple the price of the one I got !

hi Pat,

happy new year to you too.

sometimes you have to compromise just due to the cost of things, but others you have to bite the bullet.

i try to get as close as I can but doesn't always work out that way.

as a side note my niece is in Banff at the moment and I showed her the photos of you pushing your car body back home after being painted. she's since sent some photos and jeeze it looks cold there. then again it got to 43 here on Friday ( about 110 in the old scale ). I just wait till it passes then back to work on the car.



Hi all,

Just up the road from where I work part time is a little factory that specialises in restoration of shock absorbers. I have been recommended a number of time to these people and took along mine. Within a few weeks I got a call that they were finished. They completely refurbished the internals and painted them black as well. Effectively ready to bolt on, which is what I did as soon as I got home. So with the fuel tank mounted, the diff in place and the new brake and fuel lines also in place things started to look like a rolling chassis. 

I aslo bought a pair of horns at the swap meet incase I couldn't find a pair of original ones. I figured, at that stage anyway, that at least it would look the part. I'm still not sure what they are from but they certainly are nice horns. I also needed to find some type of indicators as these are required to get the car registered in Australia. I also wanted to find some that, as best as I could, would match the large bullet headlights. You can see in the two photos what I found.

I also took my old speedo cable to a shop that specialises in the restoration of guages and cables and they made me a new one as the old one was showing a lot of wear.

Next I'll get the guages checked.




Hi all,

Took the instrument cluster to a specialist and he reconditioned the speedo but just checked the other guages. Finished off the brake line for the front of the car and fitted them. Got another company to make up a couple of fuel lines. One from the chassis to the fuel pump and the other from the fuel pump to the carby. Not sure if that length is right or not but hopefully will sort that out later.

Not sure what takes place around the world but in Australia ( Victoria ) you can buy personalised plates providing they are no more than 6 characters / numerics long. Also the less amount of letters / numbers you have the more you have to pay for them. This entitles you to keep them and at a later date register a car and use these plates ( another fee applicable ).

I decided on DODG 34 ( as other combinations were not available ), searched to see if that combination was available and bought them. I dont know if I mentioned this in previous posts but I did have the opportunity to buy the original plates but he wanted $3000. You know when you look back 10 years later and think to yourself I should have bought that ? Well we didn't have the money at the time and a young family so I had to pass. The original 4 digit plates are now worth approx $50k. Glub.... oh well can't have everything.

I also decided I'd put in an electric fuel pump and filter hidden in the chassis rail alongside the shock absorber. This should be handy in case of vapour lock or priming issues. Again we'll wait and see.




Hey all,

This was about the time I started to look at the motor. The previous owner had stripped it and put all the pistons and internals etc in a can full of diesel. I had an engine rebuilder come over and have a look at it and basically said it would cost a small fortune to restore it. I spoke to another friend of mine a little while after that and he said he'd thought he'd heard of a guy not far from me who had a Dodge engine. After a few phone calls I traced it down to being 10 minutes up the road ! I went up and saw him and a chap that owed him money went broke and gave him this "restored" engine as payment. I took both engines to my rebuilder and he proceeded to strip the second engine down. He said it was in good condition and he could rebuild it for a third the cost of the old one. I decided to go for that option and he stripped everything down. I didn't hear much for a while and I went over and saw him. He'd stripped completely the engine and was working on it when I arrived.....looking good.

A few weeks later I returned only to find his wife there sorting things out. I asked about my engine and she said her husband only last week found out he had cancer and was closing the business. I took the trailer over and collected all my bits ( hopefully everything was there ! ) and returned home

I spoke to the chap who was going to do my body work and he knew of a motor restorer. I took the trailer to his workshop and let it with him in the hope of having a good engine job done. I did call in once and he had ordered a new set of seals / gaskets and was well under way.

Hey all,

This was about the time I started to look at the motor. The previous owner had stripped it and put all the pistons and internals etc in a can full of diesel. I had an engine rebuilder come over and have a look at it and basically said it would cost a small fortune to restore it. I spoke to another friend of mine a little while after that and he said he'd thought he'd heard of a guy not far from me who had a Dodge engine. After a few phone calls I traced it down to being 10 minutes up the road ! I went up and saw him and a chap that owed him money went broke and gave him this "restored" engine as payment. I took both engines to my rebuilder and he proceeded to strip the second engine down. He said it was in good condition and he could rebuild it for a third the cost of the old one. I decided to go for that option and he stripped everything down. I didn't hear much for a while and I went over and saw him. He'd stripped completely the engine and was working on it when I arrived.....looking good.

A few weeks later I returned only to find his wife there sorting things out. I asked about my engine and she said her husband only last week found out he had cancer and was closing the business. I took the trailer over and collected all my bits ( hopefully everything was there ! ) and returned home

I spoke to the chap who was going to do my body work and he knew of a motor restorer. I took the trailer to his workshop and let it with him in the hope of having a good engine job done. I did call in once and he had ordered a new set of seals / gaskets and rebuilding was well under way.




Hey guys,

After I received the engine back from the rebuilder I had the flywheel resurfaced to get an nice even surface after I cleaned it up. The previous owner had bought a new clutch and pressure plate. I had some parts from an old Dodge engine he dismantled and I was able to find a main drive gear to use to align the clutch plate.

At this point I also bought some various rubber products from a local supplier. He made quite a number of things for various makes and I was able to get the gearbox dust seal, new engine and gearbox mounts, spare wheel grommets etc. Unfortunately he moved to an Island in Westernport Bay and had a few health issues and I was never able to get in contact with him again. To this day I still don't know what became of him. He just seem to have disappeared off the radar.

As this engine didn't have two steps in the sump ( which went around a support bracket for the spare wheel carriers ) I had to get the bracket modified, repowdercoated and I installed that in its place. I also bought the nifty dry seals for the spark plugs from a guy in America. I had a few other various brackets, valve covers, fan blade, oil filter bracket chromed as I like the look of a clean shiny engine. I think that came from my younger years when I had a show car ( Holden HQ Station Wagon ). I had the air cleaner blasted and painted as well as the oil filter base.



Holden HQ.pdf


Hi everyone,

With the help of my brother, I was able to get the engine mounted. I got the original water inlet and the base was slightly pitted. I spoke to a friend of mine and he said to get wet and ry paper and sit it on a sheet of glass and keep rubbing until the pitting is gone. Well that worked a treat and I was able to get an excellent seal to the engine head. I also mounted the exhaust and inlet manifold that I cleaned up and painted in 1200 deg paint. Also maounted the steeing box and rod and the carby that I also had rebuilt. AS the previous owner shaved a small amount off the bellhousing to house a more modern starter I found a guy who modified a starter motor so it would bolt straight onto the bell housing.




hi Pat,

he did tell me he had it shaved but he was going to use a Toyota Crown starter motor. I must admit he has been very helpful when I contact him for information....or at least what he can remember. he even told me as a kid they use to pinch parts off it when it was parked in the street....how's that for karma ! Sometimes I'll ask him say about the roof and he seems a bit vacant with what happened to the timbers but then he'll give 5 bits and say that's all he had....so I don't know what happened to the rest if them.



Hey all,

Attached the fuel pump which I had rebuilt and the fuel line between the chassis and the fuel pump. I had them done in braided stainless to hopefully give them a bit more shielding from the heat. I also had a the fuel line made for between the fuel pump and carby so temporarily connected up that one as I'm not 100% sure where I'll attached that one yet. I also bolted on the fan pully and fan blade. I had that heat treated as a safety measure. I also cleaned up, repainted and attached the accelerator / choke linkage to the carby. The oil filter cannister I had repainted and the engine breather top chromed and the base repainted. The generator I had rebuilt to 12v specs so I attached that as well as the chrome attaching bracket. The water pump was rebuilt by a local guy that specialises in them. He puts new bearings in them as well as an improved impeller that helps with the water flow. I also attached the bypass pipe as well. The top of the oil filter I had polished so now I have to make the lines from the cannister to the motor.

I must say this was an enjoyable part as I had most of the items completed and was able to bolt a lot on the engine in a few days.

I also took the radiator surround to the body shop as I wanted this plated. He knocked a few small dints out of it at the bottom and had it copper plated to start hand sanding back to a smooth finish. Looking forward to seeing the end product.




Hi everyone,

I've posted a few closeups of the Generator, Breather cap and oil filter. I rebuilt the distributor and cut the hight tension leads for the correct length. I bought some water tight spark plug covers that the high tension leads go into. I mounted the High Tension Lead "spreader". I also had the base of the air filter painted and got the top chromed. I made the copper tubing for the oil filter and distributor and got some "P" clips to hold them in place on the engine. I also made up a temporary ignition set up with a switch for the ignition, starter and fuel pump and I ran new battery cables from the battery to the starter and earth. I also temp mounted my new coil and an oil pressure guage. When the radiator surround returns, I'll mount the radiator fill it with water and test it. Hopefully it wont blow up in my face ! I also had the gear lever chrome plated so thats why it looks a little dodgey ( hahaha.....dodgey !!! ). Sorry.....its been a long day !




Hi all,

Got the radiator cowl back and he did a brilliant job. ( mind you it hurt the bank balance something fierce !! ). I'll decide later if I'll leave as is or I'll get the front part painted as it forms a point at the base where the crank hole cover goes. Mounted the crank hole cover and I found a guy in central Victoria that redoes the glass enamel emblems. I sent him my original but he said it was too far gone so he said he'd keep an eye out for one for me. Two weeks later he found one and he restored it to original. The skills these people have ! I've attached a photo but this is a 1933 emblem so mines a little different but you get the idea of the quality of work he does. Installed the radiator into the surround and mounted on the chassis. Connected up the radiator hoses. I also put a little extension hose on the drain tap of the radiator so if I did drain it, I wouldn't get radiator fluid everywhere. This hose just pops out below the chassis. Also had the tailshaft fitted with universal joints and balanced and I installed that as well. I bought an Optima red battery as they tend to have a long life when not in use as much. Only thing now to do is start her up and see how it goes. I'll have to wait until a friend drops by as I promised I'd wait until he came over.




Hi everyone, Went to start the engine and couldn't get it to fire. Had excellent compression and turned over nicely. No fuel in the fuel bowl. Checked the fuel filter I installed and there was fuel in that and all seemed to be ok but still no fuel in the fuel bowl. Decided I'd pull off the short fuel line between the outside of the chassis and the fuel pump and these was the problem. When they made the fuel line they didn't drill a hole in the end for the fuel. Good one ! Drilled a hole, reinstalled the line and she coughed and spluttered a few times and finally ran like an engine should. Holding good pressure too so at least everything worked. Did a few adjustments and left it as it was so I can start it once a month as suggested by the engine rebuilder. After searching for a few years and pair of original Dodge horns came up on Ebay so I decided to buy these and I'll restore them later. No cheap but well worth the look to have original horns. I took my original running boards to Graeme my body shop guy and he had a good look at them. He said that to repair the rust, blast and replace all the surface metal as well as rerubber them the cost would be quite high as they are labour intensive. I spoke to a few people and was recommended Buckeye Rubber and two other people in Australia also wanted new boards. Graeme, my body shop guy for his 34 Chrysler ( as this has the same pattern as the 34 Dodge and Kevin who has a TJR Body Dodge in Portland Victoria. Graeme suggested I contact a friend of his who imports Mustangs from the States and all I had to do was to get them from where they were made to California. All seemed to work out reasonably well and the order was placed. All I had to do was pay the money, wait and hope they look good when they arrive. Cheers Ian


Hi Ron,

I have the history of the car from about 1936 onwards. Unfortunately ( and not for the lack of trying ) I haven't been able to find out who it was originally sold to. I even applied to have the original build record sent to me and mine was missing. After a bit more probing I found there was a gap of approx 280 vehicles on the microfilm build sheets. One thought was that these 280 were marked for export and sent off around the world. One of the other members of this forum did say that records of exports were not kept, only locally sold ones. I don't know how many landed in Australia but again, only guessing, that a few were used as demonstrating models and when you ordered one you got the Richards Body. I haven't found anything promoting the Richards Body in a 34 Dodge so I wondered if you were thinking you got an all steel body and ended up with a Richards Body ? On the firewall mine does have RH and a number stamped on it so the body maker kept tabs on the body numbers but not the builds.

One thing I've learn't on this forum is the more you dig the more you find. I dug quite a bit but basically there are no records as to exports. Food for thought anyway.....makes interesting reading though.

I do keep searching when I get time and read as much as I can so maybe one day I'll find my answer.




mine is definitely a US built car as it is an all steel body. I've compared it to its Australian counterparts and there is a huge difference between them both structually and finish wise. the Aussie ones also had 3 hinges on the doors and mine has two.

where was the book you looked at located. interesting to be able to find it. I'd love to be the custodian of that and help other people locate their cars.


Hey all,

I finally received the running boards ( all 3 pairs ) and went out to an outer suburb to pick them up. Didn't realise they were that heavy ! The guy there said he slid them under a couple of mustangs he was importing. When I went to settle the bill he asked me what I thought it was worth in freight to bring them in !!! I didn't have a clue and i was expecting $500 to $600 ( $200 a pair I thought was reasonable. He said make it $140 cash for all of them ! Couldn't believe it, paid, collected and drove off as fast as I could before he changed his mind. You have to win sometimes I guess. A friend has since told me he was looking at paying $500 for one pair to be freighted in.

Next job was to have a look at the mascot....another fiddly job. Underneath the emblem were four lugs and a tapped hole in the centre. The only way I though of doing this was to make a brass plate that would lock into the lugs, drill a hole in the centre and somehow bolt the radiator cap to the brass plate before tightening the centre bolt. I measured the opening in the radiator and after emailing a few people on ebay I bought a few 1929 Packard ( as it was advertised ) radiator caps. You'll notice a raised middle circular section. I had to flatten this down so I gently tapped it flat. I made up a brass plate and drilled four holes for the lugs to go through and a large hole in the centre for the main bolt. I tapped the sides so they looked more rounded and put on the radiator neck and put in the lock position. This gave me the the centre point that the ram needs to face. I then drilled two holes through the brass plate and the radiator cap and bolted the two together. I checked that when this assembly was bolted to the underside of the ram it would be off centre. I put a stainless bolt in the underside and bolted the assembly to the ram. The whole rams sits sideways when first placed on the radiator and when in the lock position it faces straight forward. Glad it worked first time. A lot of checking and rechecking but look the part.




I started to pull the horns apart and found the screws a little tough going. I'll replace them down the track with stainless steel ones so a friend of mine was over and we decided to pull them apart. He held them and I got the screwdriver onto them. Then.......disaster struck ! The threaded end literally dropped off one of the horns. Bugger ! Anywho as my daughter says ! We both looked at each other then kept on going and removed all the screws. Closer examination revealed metal fatigue probably from vibration over rough roads put an end to this I thought. It probably took me 3 months of asking people and mucking around with them until someone ( can't remember who ) came up with a brilliant idea of how to fix them. Only problem was he'd have to cut the thread ( which we assumed was ok at this stage ) off the good horn to match the other one. What we did was to make a tapered sleeve that would fit inside the horn with a smaller reverse thread sticking out the end. A threaded collar would then be made with a matching thread on the inside to match the tapered pieces thread and a larger thread on the outside to match that of the elbow that sits below the horn body that this bolts onto. The end result is that you'd have a thread that looks identical to the original and at the same time is stable to hold the horn trumpet in place. That cost a few hundred dollars but I bit the bullet as the other scenario of losing a horn on the road wasn't very appealing. Hope this all made sense. The next job is to find a way to get them replated. Cross that bridge a bit later.

I also bought a big box of strip and clean discs as the guy who is doing my body work suggested that I do the panels by hand and blast the inside of the panels. I guess I'll be tasting dust for the next few months while I do that job.




Sorry guys its been a while since I posted and have been working furiously on the car trying to get it finished but looks like the finances took a hit and it will hopefully be next year.

The next phase was to hand strip the body panels of all paint. It was suggested I do the outside but hand which is a lot gentler, but the undersides I should get them bead blasted. So commenced the entire body of painting with paint stripper and using a "strip and clean" disc on a polishing machine I was able to do a reasonable job. I used a wire wheel in a drill to get into the hard and tricky areas. One interesting this was that after nearly 80 years, not one spec of rust in the doors. The other problem I had was that the rear of the car was belted in as through whoever drove it last regularly reversed into everything they could find. This would have to be replaced once at the body shop. I actually enjoyed the stripping as you could see the weld seams and the car actually became to look a consistent colour ( polished steel ). I then coated the bare steel with WD40 to prevent rusting. I did uncover some rust areas in the lower cowl and wheel arches but nothing major at this point.

Oh I found these photos of the rear section and you can see what I mean't that someone reversed into things ! Maybe the reverse camera ( wife ) wasn't working ! ha

It is more noticeable on the passenger side isn't it. The hole where the rear bumper bolt goes through was completely torn open which probably explains why the rear bumper looks a little worse for wear and the bumper irons are bent upwards.


Ok, so after I finished all the panels I took one load at a time to the sandblaster to get the inside of all panels blasted and etch primed. I didn't take many shots of the panels but have a nice one of the inside of the main body ( before and after ). The blasting did reveal some rusted areas that require repair so when I send it off to the body guy we'll attack each one in turn.




Bit more progress, got the bonnet back from the body shop which had to have a bit of mild work done to it so I temporarily fitted the new hinge that I got on Ebay and even without the paint it came up looking really nice. A this point also I sent off the steering wheel to a company that specialises in them. They put a very faint smoke in it but happy with the result.




Hi All,

I shipped all the panels to the body shop now that all the grinding and blasting has been completed. The first job tackled was the banged up area at the rear of the car. The inner panel had to be cut away and repaired and while that was off the banged up area was cut and a new piece made ( well above my pay grade to do this type of work ! ). Ive posted a before and after shot. The was also a hole in the middle of the rear of the car probably used for the rear spare tyre mount and mine had a push in plug. This was removed and steel filled.

Also some of the rust in the rear wheel wells was cut out and repaired. Another interesting thing was the wells for the spare wheels in the front guards. When he lifted the guard up it fell on the ground. We decided to put extra welds on both sides just in case. Imagine driving down the road and the spare tyre in the front guard giving way !

Rust also in the cowl at the front had to be repaired. There were also a few sections in side the car that needed repairing.

I was sort of running a relay at this point where once a panel was repaired I took it to the painter who put a protective coating on it in a two pack primer and then I returned it back to the body shop and it was put into storage until all panels were completed so he could do a temporary trial fitting.




Hey all,

A bit more repair work on the rear body bolt holes where rust had eaten away a few small areas.

At this point I brought the chassis over to the body shop and we sat the main body on to get a good idea of the fit. Seemed to fit reasonably well.

Next stage is to get all the panels on for the trial fit. Once done then the main body has to go off and get its two pack undercoat done.

Also received a new accelerator pedal in the post ( my original was very well worn to a point it looked melted ! )

After a long wait my front winged emblem also arrived in the mail which had been completely restored. Done in the traditional Cloisonné method....very happy with that one.

I volunteered to go on a school camp with my daughter to Soverign Hill which is a replica gold mining town and we had to get dressed up in period clothes. We had an absolute blast.



Dodge Badge.pdf


Hi Pat,

For school "camps" at Soverign Hill they actually have a full wardrobe area and supply everything. even the pocket watch. I wasn't allowed to wear my normal watch. I also had to interact with the public ( visitors ) and how to all the ladies etc...it was great fun as this is a reproduction full functioning gold mining town. Google Soverign Hill Ballarat and gave a look. While I was there I also gad to make a spoke for a wagon by hand ( needed help with that one ) My daughter had to attend the school there for a few days which nearly killed her because of the strict discipline. ha....I tried it when I got home to no avail !


Ok the moment of truth arrived.

A trial fit of the panels to make sure everything looked and sat properly.

All panels were attached to the body and the new running boards did need some minor adjustment but overall everything sat fairly well.

Ah no....not so simple is it !

When the front bonnet sides were attached the gap is uneven between them and the front of the radiator cowl.

One side sits well and the other has an I 1/4" gap. Cannot move the radiator that much to compensate for it.

We put it up on a hoist and found the measurements between certain points on the chassis were out.

Got it down and ran a string line from the centre of the rear window to the centre of the radiator and its out just over an inch.

Somewhere along the line the car has been in an accident and the chassis is bent. Great !

The guy who is doing the body work has a friend with a hydraulic Ram that can bend it back.

So the chassis and engine are sent off and the chassis corrected.

It never occurred to me to check the measurements as I didn't believe the car had been in an accident.

Anyway the guy who bent the chassis back said it was one of the toughest chassis he's bent....so that's good.

Next step once back is to get all the panels back on again and see how we go.




Hey Ron,

On close examination there did seem to be some sort of repair, very well repaired that even the body guy had to look twice to see it, on the chassis. So we figured that must have been it. All good though as the panel on a quick refit came within the right gaps we'd hoped for.


Hi Dave,

One thing I was able to do when I first bought the car was remove the body from the chassis. This was probably the only thing that had never been touched on the car. The Dodge has two lengths of wood running under the body from the rear door to just under the metal toe board. someone on ebay was selling new ones at one point. I had to have mine remade as they were falling apart. Width wise, opening the front door, they went from the other side of the wood floor panels to just under where the sill cover would go. In addition to this, rather than rubber they used a tough fabric compounded pads on every bolt hole along the chassis. The body with those lengths of timber then sat and bolted through these pads. I'll post some photos of when I removed the body and you'll see the pads as I left them on the chassis to take a photo. Again a lot of these were a little worse for wear so when I replaced them I used rubber pads that was made from the same martial that is used in gyms on the floor under the weight lifters floors. The stuff when the weight lifters slam their weights on the floor, this stuff was sitting on the floor to protect it and the weights. These we approx the right size and could be cut easliy with a hacksaw.



Ok, so the chassis back at the workshop and the panels back on the car and the gap on each side is even now. That's a relief !

Finally able to get the whole car and chassis back home again and next I'm off to see the painter. This guy paints a lot of Cobras and many old cars have passed through his spray booth. In fact "Oldcar" who posts here regularly, Bernie, had had a few cars painted by him. I called in to see Dave and he's one of those guys you like instantly. After discussing the colours and bringing his paint samples home we decided on Black guards, Maroon Body and a Packard Ivory swage line, as many Australian 34's had swage lines painted rather than pinstripes ( at least that's what I've been able to find out ).

Dave painted up the side of a dishwasher for me to take the colours home. Only issue I have is it changes colour in the spray booth, to inside his shop to outside in the sunlight. He said he would also paint under the body and inside all the panels which would also protect the insides from stone chips.

While also doing this I received a package back for the trumpet horns that I was getting Chrome Painted as plating would have been too difficult. I got them back and was not happy with the finish, so I sent them off again to be redone.

The rims for the car also needed rounding and rerolling so they are also at the shop.





I've often wondered if I should have started a thread under "Our restoration projects " or stick to the casual update.

After 10 odd years and countless distractions the Dodge if finally getting there.

I've just had the roof insert rebuilt and on Thursday she's going to the painter so I'm looking forward to that day !

A few pics are attached.






Hi guys,

Ross - Don't laugh but my kids make a similar comment about a chicken coop ( we have chooks at home ). Click on my name next to my post and it will take you to my album and you'll see the pick of when it was on the trailer when I bought it. ( well one of the trailers anyway ).

MikeC5 - Bob is correct - Burlap or some sort of felt then leatherette. What I'm aiming to do is insert micro speakers inside the roof where you wont even know they will be there as they will be hidden by the roof lining, and run some wires back to a hidden USB plug. I can then plug my ipod into it and listen to some nice music while I'm working on her.

Sealing the insert once the material has covered it will be an interesting exercise. 3M Stripcalk or Bostic 5651 Butyl Mastic is what I have been recommended to use. A lot of the Australian 34's ( correct me if I'm wrong ) have a metal dress trim that sits on top of the roof to hold the inseert in place and seals the gap between the body and insert. Mine ( being an American Import ) had just the insert and once covered you apply the calking compound inside the roof channel, sit the insert into it then from inside the car you screw the insert down and this seals the insert to the body. I've attached a few pics one of a roof like mine and the other of ( dare I say it ) a 34 Ford with a dress trim. I couldn't find any pics of a 34 Dodge Aussie body roof.




Your right about the heavier guage steel and the quality of the metal. When I hand stripped back the doors, all four had no rust whatsoever in them. There was a bit in the rear wheel arches and the base of the front cowl but apart from that not a huge amount. Most of the damage on my car was the rear "dove tail". This was caused by some prawn years ago reversing into anything they could find. I dont know if you can make the damage out in the photo but the rear section from one side to the other had to be remade. It came up pretty good and has either been steel repaired or lead wiped.....no bog !


Finally the Dodge is loaded up and off to "Dave" the painter. If you check under "our restoration projects" and look at the posts by OLDCAR you'll see he also refers to Dave the painter. Hopefully my job will turn out the same quality as Bernies. Interesting I also own a 1998 Chrysler Voyager ( Dodge Caravan I think for my friends in the States ). Once I took the seats out I fitted in the entire Dodge - 4 doors, 4 guards, 4 bonnet pieces, front cowl, 2 valance panels, steering tude, glove box, cowl vent, 6 rims, luggage rack, 4 spare wheel covers, tail light brackets and a box of sundry other parts. No bad packing if I say so myself. I even took a few shots.

I've also attached a shot of the new bonnet hinge and panels to check alignment. All that is required is to trim the hingge to the correct length.

Also people have wondered why its taken me 10+ years to get this far with my restoration. Buying a business and running it for 11 years ( with my wife and we are still married ! ), raising 3 children ( two still at college ), having a stroke and losing 2 years of savings and now finally landscaping my front yard ( see attached pics ) monetary wise does drain the funds a bit and I still have to juggle my time between family, friends, house and Dodge. After my stroke ( about 95% better now ) I don't have the ability to do the fine repair work so I try and get done what I can't do myslef but still try and do as much as I can. So there ya go the life and times of a restorer. I guess there are a lot of us out there in the same situation. My philiosphy is if I restore an old car I'm restoring a little piece of history and hopefully the original builders would be proud of my efforts.

I'll keep posting pics once she's painted.









Hi guys,

Just a quick update,

The Dodge is being prepped for painting and is looking good.

Dave is doing a great job so far and am looking forward to the end result.

I'll post pics as thing progress.










Hi Guys,

The original colour was Empire Maroon and there were different options available i.e. black guards, body colour on the wheels or black wheels etc... even the stripe could have either been Packard Ivory or Silver Bronze. I am going for a Maroon but perhaps a little richer ( almost like a Red Wine in a glass ). The guards will be black and I'm tossing up with the stripe. I've seen Dodges with pinstriping above and below the the main line through the body and I've seen them with the entire main line painted which does look smart I must admit. Heres a few pics to show you what I mean. The first is a Richards Body and the car is in South Australia. See the wide stripe. The second is Ken Sobels car in the USA and he has the pinstriping. I'm still thinking about the pin striping whether if it detracts from the natural curves of the body or enhances it. A single stripe as in the first two pics is clean and neat and on a darker colour car may be enough.






Just a bit of an update. The radiator surround has been painted as well as the steering tube. The interior has also been painted with a sound deadening paint. Next week he'll rub back the body again and get it ready for base coats.







The first large hole at the front under the instrument panel has the metal toe board and this is joined to a wooden floor insert. The second hole ( on its own ) is covered in by a second floor board. I've attached a picture of the original floor board and I'm currently working on a new one. It does have a cut out for the battery but no and a set of holes on each side there the front seatmounts to. This is the original floor insert. There is also one more piece but thats at the rear of the car for a "shelf" behind the rear seat.



Bit more progress. The first four pics is the Body just being finished off and he's now down to 800 grit paper. Smooth as a baby's bum ! The last two pics is the completed body which is being sprayed this week. He sent me a pic on my phone this morning of the dash board thats been painted. Nice.










Just a bit of an update. The body and four doors have now been painted and the quality is better than I hoped for. Very Happy. I'm taking the chassis over later this week to have the body lifter onto the chassis and bolted down.

I'll take a few shots and post them.

When the engine was painted they painted over the timing marks. Has anyone worked out a good way to highlight these ?




Just picked up the main body and doors from the painter. Got quite a few parts to go but at least I can start.

Actually I have that many things to do now I dont know where to start !









Interesting the tricks the light plays on colour.

One was inside the spray booth.....funny thing is they are the same colour.




Thanks for the comments. I'm not an expert and I need a lot of people who can do good work. I'm also going to start a thread under "My restoration projects" from when I first started on the car. Again a bit of an update, I picked up the four guards today. Damn, this painter does a nice job....and he's a great bloke to deal with too.



p.s. The blue car was around the corner from where I work. That has gotta hurt. ( its a BMW and remember impact was on the drivers side ! )




Oops forgot this one !




Attached the 2 radiator support rods and coil mounting bracket. My wife even sowed 2 king size flannelette sheets together to go over the car....nice one !

Steve, I also attached the Dodge Badge and the Budd Body Badge to the firewall........look familiar ? These are the replica ones I sell on ebay.

Not much else this weekend as it was daughters 17th birthday and she had 50 people to her party. I think I was more nervous about the car than her !!!









Phillips head screws are Temporary until I can find a supplier that has slotted ones. Very hard to find imperial size bolts too. Round Head / Countersunk machine threads are very difficult to get hold of. I'll keep looking though.

Remember we were talking about tool boxes under the front seat in the Dodges. I can across this photo of a 34 Dodge Convertable and bugger me there is a toolbox in the floor behind the front seat ! Mine hasn't got it but this one sure does.




Another bit of progress today. I got the luggage rack back from the painter. The chrome protectors were all beyond repair so Harry that use to own the car started and got some rounded brass and has threads braised to them. I got the ends rounded like the originals and chrome plated. Found the Dodge emblem and spend the last few nights putting it back together. I think the result was worth it in the end. When I get a bit more money I might get the emblem fully restored but looks ok for the time being.












Hi Gary,

Not sure but you may have gathered mine is a Budd ( steel ) body. The 34's were made with two timber inserts in the floor. If you have a look at my album you'll see what I mean. The only timber in mine was 2 pieces that go between the body and chassis, 2 large flooring panels and a few other pieces that the upholstery is fastened to.

If ok I'll send you a PM to you email address with some pics of what I'm looking after.

I've attached a pic of the first valance panel I'm fitting after I picked it up from the painter. He also sprayed the same underbody spray inside the running boards.




There ya go guys....that looks better !!! No more philips Head Screws.




Back from the painter and picked up the bonnet parts. Nice !!!!





Hi all,

Not much done this weekend, but this weekend was priceless for me. Ken and another friend Tony came over to have a look at the work I'm doing and they brought their 34's. It was like the 3 Amigos. I was able to take photos and ask questions about a number of things. Even though they are 34's the differences between mine and the Richards Body cars is very interesting. Ken even gave me a cap being part of the 34 Club ! My wife thinks I'll need surgery to remove it from my head.







Back to work on the Dodge. Repaired, cleaned and fitted the timber support for the sunvisor panel above where the front windscreen will go. Also I fitted the front windscreen. Slotted straight in after I got my brother to help hold it up. Next job is to tackle the fender welt.







I've temporarily fitted the fender welt with all the bolts. I'll tack it in place later with glue and then fit the rear fender. I also fitted the door pillar bump stops and the round one as well.

A few more things off the list.








Hi Guys,

Had a good day. After helping paint our sons room ( he's moved out now ) I got to work on the car and fitted the two rear mudguards. Interesting when I go to fit the support bracket, the hole in the chassis is 3/8 and the hole in the bracket is 5/16 so I made a little rubber grommet to fill the hole and I'll finish those on the weekend. Another interesting thing is that the rear mudguards have more bolts holding them in place than the what holds to body to the chassis.

Oh well another job done.







I've used Stainless Steel bolts to hold the guards on and to tie it in I'll probably coat them in the same stuff that was used in the underside of the guards and body. I must admit it was interesting trying to get the fender welt to sit properly.

I was cutting a rivit off a part and it took off across the garage and put a pin hole mark on the paint. Its in the 4th photo but you can't see it. I also did a bolt up on the front windscreen frame hinge too far and nicked the paint ( but this sits behind the rubber and you dont see it ) but I will still touch it up. Apart from that so far so good. I have the front guards to go yet ! The running boards sit pretty well so next job is the fender welt that sits between them and the valance panel. I'll also start on the luggage rack supports and steering column support bracket.


I've attached 2 pictures. You can see the circular pattern on the outer and a hexagonal in the middle. With or without the Dodge wording ( prefer without ).

If you have 4 ( a friend has a 34 Chrysler and is also looking for them ).

Many thanks for looking





Yesterday was Fender Welt day. I cut and mounted the fender welt to the valance panels and Isat a small piece in between the rear mudguard and valance panel. I still have to make up the pieces for the front and rear of the running boards. Its amazing what you can cut with a scalpel !!





Not much to report but I was able to get the rear luggage rack brackets and rubber grommets in place. I will lift and seal down the track when I get them fully adjusted.

Does anyone know if I need to seal the fuel tank filler neck that screws into the fuel tank, or does it simply just screw in and no type of sealer needed.







Thanks Tony, much appreciated. All I have to do now is find a hole that the painter covered over......should be easy huh !!!

Finished the rea mudguard support brackets and I have actually finished bolting a rear mudguard, valance panel and running board together. I found that by gently jacking up the back of the valance panel I could get the fender welt to sit at the correct position. The only problem is the running board bracket near the rear mudguard is sitting slightly lower than the underside of the running board. Another interesting problem to sort out. Worst case scenario I may have to pack that bit up but I have a closer look later on. I'll start on the other side now I've had practice on this side.







Can't do much on that car at the moment as probably a lot of us have family commitments and also the temperature goes through highs and lows. Yesterday it reached 42 degrees in the shade at my place and today is about 22 at the moment !!

I've cut out the fenderwelt that goes between the running board and the front fender ( mudguard ). All I have to do now is the tricky one that attached to the radiator surround and then I can mount the two front fenders







I finished the fender welt that goes between the radiator cowl and the front fender. Interesting thing is that there are small and large holes in the front cowl. All I can assume is that the welt was anchored woth the small holes ( via a rivet or small counter sunk metal thread between the two layers of the welt ) and the front of the fender was bolted in place with the large holes. It all seems to fit up so I just have to put the welt in place then I'm ready to fit the front guard. I also cut the piece of flooring from a sheet of ply. It fits so I'll crawl under the car and mark the screw holes and the fit the wooden front seat supports. My daughters also tested out the legroom in the back of the car ( probably the last time they'll want to sit in it !!! ).







Last bit of progress before the new year comes in.

I finished the first piece of flooring. Drilled all the holes and rechecked it bolts into place. Fitted the front seat supports and sanded. I'm tossing up what to coat it in. I'll paint the underside in a marine black paint and I'll probably paint to top in a clear as I like the look of the ply. I have to fit the felt that goes between the floor board and the metal frame after its painted.

To all my Dodge friends in Australia and Overseas I hope you have a safe New Years Eve and Happy New Year to you all !!


Ian, Gabrielle, Michael, Lauren and Kira





Hi Guys,

Heres a pic of here I'm talking about. It was the trimmer who suggested that the lacing goes under the hood hinge bracket to maintain the shape and hold the end down. I tend to agree with you guys that it would both make the hood hinge bracket unstable and also it would sit too high.

I've also included a photo of Marks 34 where his lacing ends. It just seems the end is unfinished ( unattached ) or am I being too fussy ?

The other two shots are of each side at the bottom of the cowl where the bonnet lacing attaches. Interesting that one side seems to be missing a piece.

I welcome your thoughts / opinions






I've finished the floor panel that sits under the front seat. I've attached the felt, all holes align up and it fits like a finger in the bum ( oops...can I say that here ??? :) ).

I kept the top natural and clear laquered it and the bottom I did in a Black Marine Paint that is waterproof when it dries.





Today was an interesting day. After trying to mount the front fenders I found they were fouling on the radiator surround. I contacted Mark with the convertable 34 with the question I hoped he wouldn't answer the way I was thinking. Yep, Guards first then the radiation / surround assembly. Ok so out comes the rods and drain the radiator, disconnect the hoses and out she comes. Funny thing is the guards are a lot easier to mount this way........derrrr.

I did have one hitch, one of the guards ( the fourth photo ) has a tab sitting on top of the chassis and the other didn't. Strange....then it twigged, one guard has the tab bent and the other didn't. This guard now has to be removed, yet again, and somehow straighten the tab without damaging the paint. We'll see how that one goes another day.









Spent a little while yesterday bending the panel. I put my hand in front of it to test the heat so when I pulled my hand away, a fraction closer gave it the right amount to warm up the paint, but not too much.

I then put a cloth over the top and bottom and then a piece of wood on each side and used my multigrips to hold it all together and did a small amount at a time.

Turned out pretty good and no cracks at all in the paint !...whew

I had all the panels fitted together at the body shop but with the pulling apart, transporting and painting and assembly its a wonder they get back to together at all. Seem to sit reasonably well though.

There seems to be a stud sticking out on one side and not the other and I though this was welded to the inside of the chassis until I tried to undo a nut and it started to turn. I thought I'd stuffed it up until I kept going and this stud was actually tapped into the chassis. Missing one in the front left side but I can use a bolt there. I'll clean them up and recoat a bit later.






I couldn't with the original boards as they were too far gone. Once I ordered and received the new ones I took them to the shop and the holes drilled and fittiing took place.

Even though the panels were fitted I suppose its not exacting so when you get down on your hands and knees to actually fit and align them and the fender welt between them there are quite a few adjustments to be made.

Also when the shop fitted everything, there is no guarantee once refitted after painting that the body etc is sitting in exactly the same place. It only has to be a small amount out ( full adjustment the other way ) and things arn't fitting like in the photo.

Dont get me wrong, I'm happy with the progress. Maybe I'm too fussy with having the panels aligning up. After watching the 1936 production line video, I should just drop everything in place and bolt it up.

This is the offending little stud I mentioned in a previous post. I'll etch prime them, repaint and refit, then I can put the front fender back. I've also taken the headlight stalks and a few bonnet holddowns to the plater. I hope to have the two front guards and radiator assembly losely fitted this weekend. I'm also still working on the front floor timber.

Another question. My Dodge has a Thrust Bearing grease cap. Now according to the manual the 34's didn't have them but the 35's did. If anyone has a 34 or 35 where is this acuually mounted. I tried on the top bolt of the bell housing to crossmember mount but it fouled on the front floor board when fitted. I've attached a photo so hopefully you can make it out.






Here's a pic of the thrust bearing. You'll notice the hole with the grease in it which is where the end of the line of the grease cap feeder goes. The second picture is of the hole in the bell housing where the line passes through.

Steve, should leave it like that.....adds authenticity !!!! hahahaha


I know what you mean they wearn't perfect. I can't help myself !!

I'll try and find that link to the production line video.





Heres a bit of ingenuity.

I couldn't get the fender welt to sit properly between the end of the valance panel and the back side of the front fender and I couldn't get my hands up in the gap so I used a couple of surgical artery clamps to grab the small bit of fender welt sticking out between the two panels and was able to pull the fender welt down and holt it while I did up the bolts.

Who said restorers don't come up with strange solutions !





A milestone reached today. My brother came over and helped me lift the radiator / cowl assembly into position between the two front guards. It actually sat pretty well considering.

I have to get the front mounting bolts in place and connect the radiator hoses back up, but its nice to have it actually looking like a car now.









Unbolted the front of the fron fender, and the rear which attaches to the valanve panel and running board. Was just able to manouver it enough to get the pesky support bracket to the front of the mounting bracket instead of behind it. Back was aching after a while so I thought I'd reconnect the radiator hose at the bottom and tightened it up. Then I had a brilliant idea that I'd fill the tank up again. After about 7 litres I heard this splashing and my feet were getting wet. What now......next time I'll remember to put the top hose on too ! idiot.

Anyhow, I've attached a few pics of what I was talking about before. You can see the curved parts of the front fender sitting next to the chassis. I know thats where it bolts to but the curved ends have got me a bit perplexed.






Hey guys,

Not much to report.

I have removed the bulk of nuts etc on the right side in an attempt to adjust the front fender so the holes for the headlight stalk align up but having a few issues. So every now and then I stop and do something else. This time I fitted the petrol tank filler tube after sealing with some aviation stuff, fitted the new rubber ring and put the new petrol cap on that arrived in the mail on Friday.






Been a bit busy of late. Popped over to Hong Kong to visit my brother and did a few large jobs around the house now back to the Dodge.

Cleaned up all the door stays internal parts and my painter painted the arms. Bought new rubber stoppers and cut out the little gaskets from left over fender welt.

The only thing I'm not too keen about is installing the rivit that the arm pivots on. Swinging something heavy near my paint work isn't an enjoyable thought but I'll work something out.

Picking up some parts from the platers soon and my painter is coming over to help me align the front fenders ( I need six hands for this job ).






Hey guys,

Got the headlight supports bolted in place and spent the rest of the day tightening the bolts on the right side of the car up. Half way through them and then the other side.

Polished the rivets for the door supports and ordered replacement escoutchen ( cant be bothered looking that up ) plates for the internal door handles. NC Industries makes replacement ones.






Hey everyone.

Good day today.

Started off I picked up my roof from the upholsterer and it looks fantastic. I'll fit it a bit later when I get a second pair of hands.

Spent the rest of the day under the car aligning the panels on the right side and getting the fender welt set properly. Even got the bolts that suppurt the front guard to the chassis and in the wheel well all done too !

Yep...pretty happy with myself today.










Completed aligning and tightening all panels and bolts on the left side of the car.

Started sorting through the packets of bits and pieces that have been sitting there for a number of years.

Found the glover box catch so I installed that and also found and polished the rear passenger ashtrays....came up ok I think.

I cleaned up a rod for the luggage rack as well as dovetails for the doors, striker plates, grommet housings, luggage rack bolts and trims for the ashtray and glove box. I'll check these over before I send to the plater. I've also ordered a lot of small machine threads and screws ( slotted of course ) from the Restoration Supply Company which are often difficult to find in Australia so I drew up a list and ordered a lot in one hit.

Over the weekend I hope to get the accelerator linkage in place as well as the roof. I'll take lots of photos and try to explain what I've done to install it.

I also spoke to the painter and his frind who does the pin striping on the wheels ( he calls him simple simon ! ) is nearly finished. Looking forward to see the job he has done.












Cleaned up the door plates and started on the window winder mechanisms. I thought that cleaning all the muck off them I could see any damage and potentially reapir any broken parts that I could see. I also check the operation of each component. So far so good and they all have been in good working order. There was one sign of a welded repair but looks to be good.









All finished the door lock and window winder mechanisms. Just received a little box of those hard to get metal threads etc... from the Restoration Supply Company. Very prompt and fast service as a lot of they're bits are difficult to get in Australia. Postage only took about 4 days too ! I pulled the front windows out from under the bench too so I'm starting to clean those up as well. They will need replating so I'll have to strip them down.Spoke to Tony ( in Aus ) and he's given me a contact to get the glass remade. All I have to do is work out how to get the glass out of the existing channels without having a coronary !!








Definitely plated. I have a second pair ( very rusty ) that I could potentially use for spares and both sets were plated. The whole frame gets plated except for the lower part in the third and fourth picture ( held together by the duct tape ). I've attached a few closeup and you can see the rust in the first photo. The last photo you can see the two spare upper frames and the complete frame with the lower carrier.








Hi everyone,

Just finished cleaning up one of the side windows frame assemblies. There is a top and bottom assembly. The bottom one has the main window glass in it.

I've attached three photos which show the movememt of the main lever. When the lever is moved forwards at catch lockes the top and bottom window frames in place so the whole thing can be lowered. When the lever is moved back, only the main window can be lowered. This enables the 1/4 vent window to remain open.

The mechanism has two safety catches in place so no damage to the window will occur.

First, the 1/4 vent window must be closed. When closed ( see the fourth picture ) this little spring loaded catch pushes down and releases the first safety catch.

Second, the main window has to be wound up. In the fifth photo, you will see a square piece of metal sticking up on the lower frame. When the window is wound all the way up, this metal tag pushes another spring loaded catch and releases the second safety catch. This then enables the whole frame ( window and 1/4 vent window to be lowered as one piece ).

At the other end of the window frame is a thumb tab. I guess this was used in case the mechanism became stiff and this would give a little extra force to move the main lever.

Anyhow just thought I'd share what I found.










Got up enough courage to stamp the serial number on a ID Plate I bought from the US, which turned out ok. So I mounted it on the door pillar. Also stamped the Body Number on its tag and mounted that too.

Finally worked out how to mount the accelerator linkage. Being a right hand drive the linkage attaches under the right side toe board support.

Another few small things off the list.








I'm still working away on bits and pieces. The first pic shows the extreme inside rear of the car and the two luggage rack supports poking through the body. Question is did they have some sort of grommet. I would assume they would have but am not 100% sure. If anyone has some pics it would be helpful.

I've also started on the wooden boot space pieces. You can see the hole on the right where the fuel filler passes under and I guess the square hole in the middle is an inspection hole. I have a metal plate that covers this. Next have to finish the wood, coat the bottom and varnish the top and finally install it. I may put some sound deadening material down first.







Dave ( the guy who painted the car ) went over to Simple Simon's place ( the pin striping guy ) and he's half way through finishing my rims. ( wish I could paint like that !! )

Still working on the luggage area timbers and the timber around the rear window opening.

As a side issue I've included a pic of some striker plates that were in a box of stuff I had from a guy who restored a 41 Dodge. Are these 41's or something different.






Hi everyone,

Thanks for the offer Dave but I'll try and stuff mine up first before I tackle anyone elses. I have a go yesterday to get one dint out and made two more in the process so I went back to woodworking the rear luggage shelf. Got that finished so now I have to give it a good coat of varnish and spray the metal plate that covers the large square hole and material over the hole where you can see the fuel filler neck. I then have to mark and attach screws to the support brackets underneath.

I also pick up my six rims today. Now thats precision and they were all hand painted ! I also started to screw the timbers behind the rear seat support that attach to the rear window timber surround. What looks like bird's poo is my marks where the screws go for the garnish mould. Still looks like birds poo !







Nothing much to post but I dropped a few rims back to Dave the painter for him to look at and he was in the middle of repair spraying a guy's Daytona that is raced all the time. Sitting next to it are these two REALLY long hand beaten mudguard / running boards. The body is just visible at the top of the Daytona photo. This an old Bugatti that a guy courted his wife in it and when kids came along he pulled it apart, shoved it under his house for 30 years now the kids have left home decided to restore it. When finished will be worth over $1m. He also had a Mustang he was working on outside the spray booth.




Hey all, gotthe timber finished around the rear window and screwed it in place. Alsocleaned up and attached the headlining attaching trim that runs around the backof the car. I think they attached the timber first then welded in place therear seat support as I couldn't get the lower part of the timber out. I also attached to the top behind the two brackets a rubber pad to stop any potentialvibration against the body.

Sorry about that. I couldn't get the photos to load in the last post. Here they are. I've also been a bit distracted lately and I've picked up my new baby !!!!!







Hi Kelsey,

Thanks for the compliment. This is my first resto and not having the pleasure of pulling it apart as this was done by the previous owner makes it a little hard putting it back together so I pester everyone with a lot of questions.

my running boards were beyond economical repair so I bought new ones where the rubber was vulcanised to the steel. I have known a few other guys rerun beer theirs and a few have used shoe sole glue. that and a lot of clamps to hold in place while drying.

with the fender welt, I ran it along the required area and marked with a pen where the holes are. I punched the holes out then temporarily fitted it to make sure it was the right look. I then used automotive contact adhesive and put on the fender welt and the body and let dry a few minutes. this gives enough hold so when put together I'm able to bolt the rear guard on. Valance panels etc i clamped and let dry overnight. End result I'm pretty happy with but you'll always get one bit the just wont sit right !!

Years ago when I lived with my parents, they guy up the road use to sit in his garage and work on an old car. I'd walk past and sort of look into the garage and see what he was doing. One day he came tearing down the road in this car and drove into the garage and shut the door. When he came out he sat on the fence next to me and we both watched as the police drove by obviously looking for that unregistered vintage car ! He said he took it for a test drive and they saw him up the road but he knew a few short cuts to get home quickly. After a while he opened the garage door and there was this really neat old car....a Whippet. Never heard of it but I was interested. So I'd often walk past and see what he was up to but then he moved. After seeing this old car I always wanted to work on something like this.

I've build a dune buggy, a few old Holdens and a slightly more recent Holden I did up but nothing very old. I always liked going to car shows and I said to myself, one day I'd like to restore an old car. Fast forward 20 years and one day I was attending a car show with Vintage, Veteran, Classics and Hot Rods. I love all sorts of cars and was amazed at the detail that was put into them as well as the beautiful lines of the bodies. I kept going back to the 1934 Ford Tudor 4 door sedan. The rounded back, long running boards and those big mudguards ( fenders ) and that shovel nose grill........sweet !!!!. Unfortunately so did hot rodders and their pockets were a lot deeper than mine and a wreck would often go for $15,000, that was a lot of money back then. I then started to look at other 1934 makes of cars and a friend of mine suggested a Dodge. I wasn't really sure of the look of them and after some searching I found a few pictures. Dodge, Plymouth and Chrysler all had that look I liked. Lucky for me the Hot Rodders hadn't progressed in a big way to those makes. I eventually found an add in the paper "Dodge 1934, 6 wheel equipped US Body $3200.

I went to the house and saw the grill surround sitting on the chassis and thought YEP !!! only problem is the guy spent 5 years pulling it apart in an old wooden shed only a little wider than the car and a dirt floor so he could only work on one side . He stripped everything from the car, motor ( which was entirely dismantled ),panels apart from a few he couldn't get access to, diff, complete interior doors, windows and only a few things were labelled. He said it was 95% complete and only a few things needed. Some of these "things" were and are really hard to get. I also had no idea that All Steel Bodies in Australia were fairly rare so I'm privileged to be able to restore this to as original as I can get to the best of my ability ( which is lacking at times !!! )

This resto has survived moving house, building a house, running a 24hour a day business and a stroke so its in for the long haul. When we build our house the garage was designed so that all cars could have their doors open and not touch the doors of the other cars. Its a triple garage so my wifes car, mine and the Dodge. I was also able to put shelving and two large desks in and still have room to work on the car.

Its taken a while with the restoration and a lot of the delay is from waiting to ask people advice, where things go, get photos of certain areas etc... but I hope to get close to finishing this year. Painting and Upholstery are big costs and I only have one to go.

So there ya go a bit of history on the Dodge



Hi all,

We to the platers to see where my chrome stuff is at and they said its been sitting there a few weeks. They tried getting hold of me but the number was disconnected. Dosn't help when the guy can't read his own writing and was ringing the wrong number ! All good though and they have done a fantastic job again !!! I'm also making up a template for the board that goes around where the rear seat opens. This was lined with material ( sort of like the fender welt ) so I'll try and get that done over the weekend too. We've just finished packing our son up and he and his partner are off to Dubai for 2 years. Google the Atlantis Hotel.....my god thats big !!!

Dropped in to see they guy who did my body work and two thing you may like to see. He's building an entire Dusenberg from scratch for a customer. He has the original bonnet but thats about it. So the guy gave him a model and said here...make this.

He's also working on the rear mudguard for an old Indian Motorcycle. The metal skills these guys have are amazing so I thought I'd post the pic. We love pics don't we !!







Ok so I started to hand sand back all the door handles, finished one and I think it came up pretty good. Only do it for a short time before my arms feel like they are dropping off. This should be ready to be plated / coated when I've finished all of them. Also installed all the dovetails in the doors and made up a few little rubber seals to seal the luggage rack supports and fuel tank filler tube in the lower floor pan area. Next step is to finish the boot ( if you can call it that ) timbers, paint and varnish them. I'll put sound deadener down before that is all installed.Cheers Ian......here it goes again....I press the Enter button and it won't go to the next line !!! Grrrr












Hey all,

I'm using Firefox now and no problems either posting or downloading photos. I tried the enter button twice but no effect. Thanks for the suggestions.

Finally finished the rear luggage compartment wooden pieces. More angles in these than in my house ! Gave them the same marine paint black treatment underneath and clear glossed the top and felt between the upper and lower joints per the original. I do have to cut a little piece for where it goes over the fuel tank filler tube and finish painting the plate that covers the big hole in the middle and install. I'll put the sound deadening material in first and take a shot once completed.









Woo hoo I can answer this one as it was one of the few things that was still attached to the inside of the car !

The rear seat is attached to the top of a steel curved piece that sits below the rear window. It is attached by two hinges so the back of the rear seat is put in first.

Therefore the seat ( rear part ) lifts up from the bottom. When in the car looking at the rear of the car, you'll notice two screw holes on the left steel vertical support strut. This is where a "stay" mounts and the other end mounts to the seat.

I'll take a few photos of what I'm talking about over the weekend and post as soon as I can. The pic below is from the actual sales brochure for the car.

Hope this helps




There is one thing that I'm finding hard to get. Its the rear 1/4 vent wind out window frame and rubber. My right side ( Driver in Aus or Passenger in USA ) is ok as per the pic but the other side is rusted quite bad and the rubber perished and there is nothing left. The rubber was vulcanised to the frame which makes it even more difficult. I've even tried every rubber manufacturer I can think of in the USA and Aus but no joy.

There was one guy selling parts off a 34 put he seems to have dropped off the face of the earth.





Got the photos for you of the rear seat stay and bolt holes. Mine bolts to the right side ( I thought it was the left until I found the stay ). And there are holes on both sides of the Verticle support bars. You'll see the three holes in the top curves metal just below the rear window. Thats where the hinges bolt to, and in the same photo the two holes futher down the support bar are for the Stay. The other holes in the support bar are for Upholstory clips to hold the surround cover in place. I mounted the stay and sat it on a piece of wood to try and give you a good look at it. I haven't cleaned it up and painted it yet.














Finished installing the soundproofing behind the luggage area. Got my finished timbers and bolted / screwed everything in place. All that remains is to get the cover plate finished to cover the big hole in the middle. Only problem is I'm not sure if there was any lining, if any, of the metal body above the timber to underneath the rear seat support. I'll have to email a few people to see what they have.






I've been busy with Tax time and still getting things done for my work. ( I don't really like this time of the year for that reason ! )

Anywho I have made some progress.

I made some templates for the side covers that when you lift the rear seat these neaten the area around the luggage area. I traced around the templates and cut out from some board I got from my upholsterer. Did a few final checks and seemed to fit well. I marked where the holes were and drilled these out and using little xmas tree upholstery fastners. There worked a treat and they even have the same finish as the board on them. Once in place I then made a template for the middle bit, cut it out then attached that too. I think it came up looking pretty good. I have to drill two more holes for the support stay for the rear seat but I'll do that at a later date.

I cleaned up the original cover plate for the hole in the luggage area and printed and screwed it in place. I think the guy who made this in the factory must have had a few drinks, or it was last thing on a Friday as it was a bit wonky but came up ok after some tapping out with a hammer.

I'm also still sanding back the door handles. I'm doing 6 in total so I have a few spares. Three down and three to go. Trouble is I sanded one back that far I lost the lines on the top so I'll have to reshape that by hand.














Started the engine for the first time since the painting of the body. Only had a small leak from the fuel bowl. Pulled it apart and the gasket looked a bit tired so I replaced that and seems fine now. I've uploaded a short video to Youtube. Sorry I couldn't get the watermark off the video.




Hey all,

Fitted the painted grill to the front vent and picked up the painted spare wheel covers. The open part at the bottom of the pieces has two screw holes in each side. Does anyone know what the holes are for or what is missing ?









Take two....I hope this gets posted this time but I'm getting these Dodgey messages each time I go into a posting on the forum.....hmmmm wait and see.

Anyhow, I've inserted the roof in the opening and the following hopefully will explain how I did it without completely stuffing it up !

When I bought the car there were only 3 timber bows left of which 2 were broken. I spoke the the guy who did my body work and he set about making a new insert for me.

Did an absolutely fantastic job. Once completed I took to the upholsterer and he covered it with a cloth, foam and then the black finishing material. To check I set it in the roof opening and then removed and made a few minor adjustments as one part was sitting a fraction too high.









Ok, so now the roof insert fits, I removed it from the car and ran three lines of green ( low stick ) masking tape along both the roof insert and the opening in the body. Once this was done and we ( my brother and I ) were happy with the result I ran three runs of Butyl Mastic ( like liquid Dum Dum ) along the three ridges in the roof opening. This was to give it a chance of having a three layer protection from getting any leaks. Once this was completed we made sure the screw ( metal thread ) holes aligned up. WE put the metalthreads on the holes and hand tightened them until it started to exert some force on them. We started from one side and tightened them until we got around to the opposite side and all screws were tight. There is always one that doesn't want to go in !!!














To fill in any gaps that still may exist, I applied another run if Butyl Mastic and flattened it down with a cloth with some Kerosene on it. It was then a continuous job of getting the excess Butyl Mastic off the area. This stuff sticks like poo to a blanket ! blah.

Anywho, once we got the excess removed the masking tape was removed slowly after a hour or so as the skin had started to form. These was a few imperfections that needed attention so a bit more gentle wiping I was able to get that sorted out. When finished I left it for two days and then I had to find something that was softer than a cloth but was still had enough that didn't fall apart. I rembered my daughters use these pads for removing makeup. Armed with a few of these I again put some kerosene on them and very gently wiped any excess away. A bit of the cotton came off but this will clean off once completely dry. I think it came up looking ok and I really dont want to do this again !















Hi guys and thanks for the comments, much appreciated.

The green tape only ran around the rim of both the insert and the opening and not wrapped over the edge. This made for a better line to work to. If I was doing this again I would have put less Mastic on the second time around as the bulk of this had to be removed. When I wiped the excess off I tried to get back to a little of the painted surface along side the masking tape. This way I knew that was where I had to stop wiping. Pulling the tape off required two people. One to pull it off ( almost on an angle back on itself ) so it didn't lift any mastic that was caught up, and the other to hold the tape off the roof coz this stuff gets everywhere.

I used a local brand...Selleys D-Mastic ( pic attached )

I also made a little template for a heat shield for the fuel pump. My fuel pump has 3 "posts" so I gave this to my metal guy and he made it up from stainless. I polished it up and it fitted without adjustment...that has to be a first.

I've also started on the bonnet lacing.

Tip of the day....










This is what I was looking for.This is a moulding used for the Chrysler brands ( could be for other years too but not sure ). Unfortunately as I didn't pull my car apart and there was not much left of the roof, once I had the roof made this moulding was too big to fit so I had no choice but to use the Butyl Mastic method. This would have provided a cleaner edge.

This is the web address of the supplier and I've tried to take a few shots of the moulding. They still have stock of it







Finally I mounted the luggage rack. I did have one issue. One of the threaded holes when I went to put the special bolt in didn't have a thread ! To get around this I bought a slightly longer bolt, made up a few slightly small curved shims and tapped them in on top of the thread, put a washer so it wont come out and this stopped any movement. I'm going to get a few small rubber "U" pieces and glue them in place so two of the support arms won't rattle. Apart from that and using the original emblem I think it came up looking pretty nice. Now I'm working on the bonnet lacing. I've finished one side around the radiator so three more to go.












Hey all,

Went to the the local rubber extrusion shop and bought a small strip of the "U" profile. Cut two small pieces and glued it to the stoppers on the luggage rack. This should prevent any vibration rattles. Nearly finished the radiator surround bonnet lacing. The last attaching bolt can't be put in as somewhere along the line the radiator surround was damaged and there is a piece missing that just happens to be where the hole is. I suspect it rusted out and fell off. I made a plate out of thick aluminium so hopefully when I tichten everything up it will fit.









Finally finished the bonnet lacing. Tricky getting it around the radiator shell but got there eventually. it's a wonder you guys in the US didn't hear a few choice words !






Got the left side of the bonnet down from the shelf and just wanted to check the alignment was ok. Had to adjust the top support rods a bit but after that one side aligned up pretty well. At least now I know it fits ok. Not sure about the lower section yet but will cross that bridge a bit later. Just a question for you, my bonnet sides have four louvres on the sides. There are highlighted by a stainless steel trim. do you know how these trims are attached ? also the drain tube from the cowl vent that is inside the car, where abouts does it run to from elbow under the dash ?










I checked all 4 of mine and don't have a spring in either. Looking at what you have it looks as though the long part goes into the gap on the right and the short hook bit is the bit you have to "spring" into the left side so it sticks out the hole on the left. I guess it maintained the angle of the opening handle but not sure.

You have presented me with another problem. When I checked only one of my catch assemblies has a spring at the top of them. The others are missing or just didn't have them. What do yours look like ? ? I've attached a few photos.










Went and saw Graeme who is the guy that do my body work and asked him about the springs.

In the first photo you posted you put the first part of the "s" of the spring in the square hole to the left. you then tension thr spring and put the straight part in the opposite hole.. the spring sits flat so when the door handle is pulled it basically ratchets itself between the door locked position then moving the handle again ratchets it to the door opening position.

Hope that makes sense.

While I was there he had a car just brought in which was pulled out from someone's garage. it's called a Wanderer. there is suppose to be only 14 left in the world. this car and three others ( including Audi ) went on to become the Audi brand. it's sort of a cross between a Ford, Chev and a Volkswagon. just thought I'd post it when I see something interesting.

Received my window frames back from the platers who had them stripped for me. now the long task of hand sanding back to a platable finish. also working on the wiring so not a lot to show for my efforts.




Been doing a lot of fiddly things.

Finally worked out the wiring was on the wrong side. I couldn't get the wire off the fuel tank sender so I cut it and rethread the wiring and soldered and heat shrinked the join. Only then did I work out that due to the thickness of the wire ( and the thickness of me !! ) it wouldn't fit through a few sections of the chassis so for the third time, I cut the wire to the sender and started at the front of the car where I should have done in the first place. I just need to sort how the wires run for the dip switch. I think it clamps to the top of the gearbox crossmember but not 100% sure. I'm still sanding back the front window frames after the plater stripped them. This could take a while as they are badly pitted. Good news is the window glass will be ready this week and the plater has finished my door handles and are ready to pick up. I also thought i'd do something easy and attached the spare wheel support bracket on each side of the car.










Hi Jason,

your right, they are a lot of work. This being my first restoration and sometimes not realising what i got myself into gets a bit daunting. But it's interesting the people and knowledge you gain along the way. I've met some really nice genuine people and I've referred work to them. I've seen some amazing cars and watched as people bring things back that I would have thought were destined to the scrap yard. If I was able to I'd like to restore a 1929/1930 Cadillac or a Cord but I don't think the bank balance would take the strain.

I do like your other thread on the Ram. You seem to have a natural talent and take pride in what you do.

Im still a fair way off finishing mine. All the electrics, controls, windows, upholstery etc, wiper motors....all things that take a lot if time and you don't seem to be getting anywhere. I'd love to have it finished next year being the 100th Dodge anniversary. We'll see how we go. I'd rather do it properly than rush it at the end and have it look as though its been rushed.



Stiill chugging along...

Finished running the wiring and aligns up better with everything now. Again had to rejoin the fuel tank sender wire.

Made up a fabric seal and positioned the left hand drive cover block off plate in place.

Installed the two bonnet restraining buffers in place.

Went to the chrome platers and got back my 6 door handles and I can pick the best ones and have two spares. Considering what I started with they came up pretty good. Also got back the 1/4 vent window frames.

Cleaned up the spring locking parts for the door handles too. I only have to figure out how to put them back now !

So while I was doing some of this it was hailing outside while less than an hour away Sydney is copping massive bushfires. Strange country.....but I hope they are all ok up there.














Hi all,

Went to the Motorclassica and took some shots for you. Hope you enjoy













A few more pics.....






















Almost there.....











Last lot !!!...hope you enjoyed the shots, boy some of those cars are amazing.









Finished off the wiring at the rear of the car and installed one of the rear tail light stalks and got the wires through. Started sorting out the glass I had made. Polished and cleaned the trims for the bonnet louvers and still sanding back the front door window frames. A lot of pitting in these !












Hey all,

Just finished putting the sound deadening material in. Got it in all thew doors and a few front and rear areas as well. Actually the doors were the easiest. Certainly makes it look neat. Only problem is now when I work inside the car I get a sun tan at the same time !! ha








After messages etc with Steve ( knobless ) I bought the door lock springs from the USA and fitted after applying heat so the tabs wouldn't break. Only 3 broke out of 8 so I had them welded up. I also fitted the rubbers, clips etc on the door stays, fitted the cover for the hole where the diff may hit the floor pan and the rear seat lugs. I tried to install the other tail light stalk but 2 bolts threads just kept turning. I decided to try something different. I remember seeing this in the bolt shop I go to where they put Rapidfix in the hole ( built up in layers ) and then tapped it. I've filled the hole so now I have to drill & tap the hole. Fingers crossed on that one !










Hey all,

Just finished installing all the door stops. Found a piece of the window runner channel missing so I'll have to make up a new piece and probably rivit into place.

Got 4 speakers from where I work and these are used in TV's so they are very skinny. I put them in the back of the car near the rear window and I'll hide two in the front as well. This plus the little amp and all you'll see when finished is a round disk at the rear of the glovebox which has hidden a USB and headphone input jack. A little bit modern and all hidden.









Thanks for the translation and thanks for the message Peter K. AS promised here are some shots of the day. I'd guess there were 10,000 people wandering around the gardens and there were many different things to see but especially for me the 100th anniversary of the Dodge made it more enjoyable.











More pics.......











And more .......











and still going..........










still some more shots............














Last lot...........



















A couple of questions / requests some of you guys may be able to help me with :

1/ The metal plate that sits on the lower cowl near the running board ( ive posted a pic ). Does anyone have a good closeup shot of this as I want to get mine restored.

2/ The bar under the front seat that operates the seat sliding mechanism ( pic attached )...is this suppose to have the bends in it or is it dead straight ?

Just little things but still important.

Took all the garnish moulds to the blaster today and once done and coated with an acrylic primer, they'll be ready for the woodgraining effect.








Hi Steve.

Mine is an all steel body imported direct from the States. The other guys in Australia ( most I know of ) have Richards Bodies. What happened was that Dodge exported the chassis to Australia and a company here called T J Richards made the bodies for Dodge. These bodies had a lot of timber in them....ie the door frames, internal timbers etc...That's why I often ask for photos as mine in a lot of aspects is very different. According to the parts book I have is that the horns were an optional extra. now whether not a lot of horn kits were not sent over I'm not sure but a lot of 34's do have a horn mounted to the top of the engine and I assume this was the standard unless a car was ordered with the dual horns.



Now the heat has subsided back to the Dodge !

Time to do the instrument panel. Bought some black neoprene as the cork gasket was a bit ordinary. Put the instrument panel surround on it and using a scalpel I cut out the inner shape. Then I put the glass on top to get the outer shape and cut that leaving the gasket I need. Using some adheasive I put the gasket in the back of the instrument panel surround and pressed into place. I then got the instrument panel face plate and the instrument housing and using pliers crimped it all together. You only see the raised chrome surround so the crimping marks don't show. ( the Heater guage isn't put in as i had just painted the sensor cable black and it was drying ). Turning the assembly over I realised that someone ( no me ! ) only left me with just half an inch of wire sticking out the light globe sockets. I got busy and reconnected the wires and heat shrinked the connections.












The finished instrument panel.

Another small problem I notices was the guage faces. Firstly they are printed in gold the black wording / numbers are applied sort of giving them a gold shadow under the black. The oil guage only had the gold and no black writing on it ! I took it to Dave the Painter who did my car and he gave it to Simple Simon who did the rims of the car. The result is pretty good and you'd find it hard pressed to pick which one unless it was pointed out. Overall happy with the result.





Spent most of the day pulling apart the locking mechanisms from the front window frames. Interesting set up I must say. There seems to be 3 main parts to this. The window locking and release meshanism, the windout mechanism and the slide assist lever. I'll post a seperate thread for anyone who is interested in a few closeups. For the moment i'm just trying to sand them back to a reasonable flat surface then I'll get them coppered and then replated once I'm happy with the finish. Only thing is I'm having trouble with getting the lever off. It was stamped in place with a pin that an oval type shape to it. I might try and get away with leaving it but I'll show my plater first to see what he thinks.










Hey all,

Cleaned up the ashtray supporting bracket and spring. Also buffed up the cowl vent opening handle and when I gently tapped in the supporting pins it cracked across base. This must have been the most gentle tapping I've ever done on anything. Looking back there was a line in the chrome work that the previous owner had done so may have been a flaw in the metal. Any suggestions ?








I guess the part is semi hidden and needs to take a bit of force. I showed the part to a guy up the road who makes a lot of stuff for the motor bike industry. We decided that welding etc would only lead to breaking further up the part.

We talked a while about it and decided to make a steel plate the with the same contours, drill two holes in it and sit it flat against the broken part. Using bolts instead of pins, this should take the force of the ratchet movement. When this is made I'll get it plated and install. One side will be thicker then the other so I'm now thinking of getting two made, one for each side. That should even it up.

I would like to windproof the garage door. Only thing is I have a triple garage, 2 kids at home and a wife that love keeping the garage doors open. There is also a roller door at the rear and external opening doors. I think the cover is a cheaper option...ha


Hey all,

Worked on the ashtray today. Bolted the opening mechanism in place after fabricating a missing bit. Inserted the chrome surround. Fitted the handle and butt out thing inside the ashtray and the wing emblem I had and then fitted to the car. Only a small piece but worth the end result.











Hey everyone,

Been a long few weeks.

Cut down the little screws that hold the horn mechanism in place to the base plate. A friend at work is working on one that isn't working.

Spend a few hours tapping the rear brake light housings back into some sort of recognisable shape.

Started on the front floor pans. One timber that I'm coating in that black goo I used previously and the other was powdercoated years ago and still looks great.

Finished stripping down the two front window frames ( not a highly enjoyable job ) and ended up with a tub full of parts ( and lots of photos along the way !!! )

Then an important milestone. I got the bonnets back on the car.

First the hinge I put a bit of LMM grease in it as this is like a thick paste and wont melt in hot sun and also wont compress down.

As the bonnet hinge was new it needed a bit of padding just in case.

Stood them up first then slid the hinge down both sides at once.

Lay the bonnet down then I got my brother to help me lift into place after I placed the lower parts of the hold down clamps on first.

Once in place we were able to lift each side while still supporting it and put the screws back.

Clearances looked really good after only minor adjustment with the radiator support bars.

Really happy with the result.


















Hey all,

Continued on today and dismantles the sun visors and all its components. I'll get all the gunge off them and hand sand each piece and then replated.

I also put some shots of my damaged Cowl Vent handle and had metal fatigue. I had 2 little plates made up the shape I needed and when together should give it the strength it needs so pretty happy with the result.













Oh yeah, also ran the speedo cable I had made 12 years ago....Fitted perfectly and the grease in it hasn't budged !!!





Hi all,

The Dodge Plate sure looks a lot better once done, thanks for the resto idea.

I cleaned up the side parts that sit beside the toe board that the side upholstery panels sit in. This isn't a dodgey paint job but rather the rust pitting once there were blasted. They are still in reasonable condition so decided to keep and use them.

Also finished the front floor timber panel. When I did a trial fit it was slightly out so if I widen two of the holes it should sit properly. I attached weather proof felt around the outsides and because there is a bigger gap on the long side I used some left over bonnet cord which actually looks really good once in.

I also posted a few photos of the pedal arrangement for the RHD cars. In the last photo you can just see the rod where the top of the accelerator pedal joins to.










Okey Dokey another update.

Finished the floor, toe board and the two upholstery panel side parts and installed all of them today. Its actually nice to be able to move around inside the car without falling through the holes.

I am missing one small metal thread only because when I was doing it up I dropped it and it slid into a totally inaccessible spot so I'll have to get a few more tomorrow.

Other than that another job off the list.






Still plodding along.

Picked up the garnish moldings from the blaster and he's done a great job again. Dropped them into my painter and will shoot a grey acrylic primer on them then off to the woodgrain guy.

Also been filing back the sun visor brackets to get them ready for plating. Fiddly job this one. Still sanding back the front windscreen frame. They are getting there but slow process to get them pitting free !







Hey all.

Made up two new pieces of wood that sit under the seat supports. One of mine was missing and the other had a crack in it so I used a piece of good ole Aussie Hardwood.

Sorted out the seat runners that I cleaned up and painted. Stripped back and etch primed the rear seat hinges and stay. Painted the hinges black and installed in the car to get them off the shelf.







Hey all,

Cleaned up the horn workings. A resident electronic genius at work tested them and replaced Capacitors on both of them. A few more bits to clean up on the horns and the body can be reassembled.

Also mounted a steering column cover plate ( I think its in right ), then the rubber grommet, checked the dimmer switch and cleaned that up too. I kept dropping screws between the body frame and the inner cowl so instead of using my daughters skinny fingers I made up a rubber block that fitted nicely in the gap.










You know I struggled with that collar for ages trying to work it out. If I put it up the other way around there is a big gap between the two pedals. Hopefully someone on the forum will have a clear pic for us. I tried the rubber steering shaft thing under it and it didn't sit down at all. I'll email Ken Sobel and see if he can shoot me a photo. I agree with you, it just doesn't look right. If I get a photo I'll post it here.

My seat runners had the remains of black paint on them and a bit of rust. I just cleaned them up and painted them which I thought was how they came but perhaps being under the seat they didn't bother.

I've also started to fit my finished pieces to the bonnet sides. The stainless steel vent trim pieces are tricky to get in place. I'm having a few problems with the other side as two of the mounting clips are missing and I'm trying to make two and get them in place without completely stuffing the trim piece up. I also picked up the garnish mouldings from the painter so now its off to the wood grain guy. My windscreen guy dropped in the other day. I couldn't find any rear 1/4 wind out window rubbers. The originals were vulcanised to a metal fram. One side of mine appeared to be brass and the other steel. The steel side had rusted and the rubber completely perished. The guy who made my new glass took both away ( nervous about doing that as I can't replace them ) and said he made up a wooden frame and coated it with beeswax. He then injected Polyeurathane into it let sit for 5 days. He pulled the mould apart and cleaned it up as good as he could and the result is in the pictures. The one on the left is the original. Considering that I didn't have anything on the right one to start with it came out pretty darn good. I just hope the window fits. He said if I wanted to he could come back and "adjust" it if need be. I'm just happy to have it back. I've been looking on the internet for these and they are either rotten or are on good cars so happy with that one !











Not really a Dodge but thought you might be interested.

When I dropped into the painter he was working on this 1928 Rolls Royce. Have a look at the bolts on the diff. The front spring are also covered in this material and the grease pumped into them.

This was stripped and made into a ute for the war then given back to the owner with the ute body still on it. After 3 other owners it made its way back to the original family ( just by chance ) and there it will stay.

Also note the horn. I originally didn't have horns for my Dodge and bought 2 from different vendors at a Swap Meet. Look familiar ??? The owner of the Rolls is going to have a look at them but one has an identical mounting bracket as that on the Rolls.






Hey All,

Started work on the operating mechanisem of the rear 1/4 vent wind out windows. Found that I was missing a small steel block that housed the pivot for the bottom of the window. I found one but one was missing. Got a friend of mine to get me small piece of steel and ten I drilled one hole then drilled and tapped the other hole. Found a spare counter sunk metal thread and cut it down to suit so should be ready to see if everything fits together in the car soon.

I also was able to just get a rivet in the top of the ignition switch mounting bracket ( only just as the bracket sits close to the top of the inside of the dash ) that was cut out at some stage, so now all I have to do is mount the bottom feet of the bracket and that will be another job done.














Hi Guys,

Did a trail fitting of the right side wind out quarter window.

Seems to fit ok so I inserted the pivot while the frame was upside down, then the steel bar that holds the pivot in place turned it over and tightened the retaining screw and the frame is ready to go in. New screws and also some polyeurathane to seal it in and tightened everything up.

I'll wait to it dries before shutting the window and everything was greased properly before assembly.













Hey all,

Haven't been slacking off, just doing about 10 different things at once. Started feeding the wires through the headlight stalk as well as the horn wires. I pulled apart my headlight, cleaned up the bolt support brackets, got my repro horn brackets I had made, put a new grommet in and installed both headlight buckets. Happy with the result and even used a few flannelette pillow cases to protect them which fit perfectly.

I'm making a new floor plate that goes around the handbrake lever that Steve ( knobless on this forum ) was good enough to sent me a picture. Again mine was non existent so don't know what happened to it.




















Finished my plate for the floor. What I did was I used this old no standing sign. Marked the pattern I needed based on Steve's photo ( thanks Steve ). To get the arc approximate I traced around a washer drilled the holes and wacked it in the vice and then bent to the correct angle. A coat of etch primer and the Gloss Black it came up looking ok. You'll probably agree best use of a no standing sign !!! Also cleaned up a couple of the trim mounting timbers and was able to put one in as the other window isn't fitted yet.




















Hey all,

Made up two little brackets to hold the parking light in place which sits between the original bracket for the parking light. Fitted first time ( now theres a first ) and put the lights and trim rings back in place.













Hey all,

Had a look for those timbers that extend and mine are non existent. Looks like I'll have to make those now.....keep finding bits for me...I'm enjoying this !!

Finished the other bonnet side with the vents. Attached the trim, hold down clamps and handle so that's both sides now done. Finished wiring and fitted the dipswitch, earth for the dome light, fitted the handbrake cover plate in position and installed two grommets and a stainless steel sleeve for the rear bumper irons so no pressure will be put on the body when the irons are installed. Cleaned up inside the car ( finally ) as it was becoming a dogs breakfast in there ! Took a shot from the rear looking inside and compared it with an old one plus a few other shots.




















Hi Steve,

This is all I have, unfortunately I didn't really take closeups of the aprons. A few pics you might be able to get a good idea.









Finished the glove box door after getting that tricky little trim in place. I had a knob which looked the part but had to tap a new tread in it. I'll fit it later on once I've finished the wiring etc..

Also remade two lower sections of wood that were missing and reattached two assist strap blocks. I bought two new assist strap holders a long time ago so I found those too.

A guy at work put me onto this Fibre Pen which I've used to clean hard to get areas that need a good contact like inside the light fittings and little brass screws. You just rub it over the area and comes up new in a few seconds. Just thought I'd share that incase anyone is nterested.












This is a few shots of an original 34 one of the guys in the states has.

I've attached a few pics of what I have. One car I'd say is original and has the same type of strap. The others has a folded strap.

The closest thing I've seen is those dividing barriers that have a rope between two bollards but still a long way away from the original type.

Have a look at the cord on the back of the seat too. I've seen these on ebay a few times, maybe a contact there too !

I'll let you know if I find anything or further information.










Hey all,

After many hours finally got the door handles, escutcheon, retainer washer, spring and retainer set up properly for all 4 door handles.

Took a while as a few escutcheons had worn quite a bit so had to pick the best of them and trail and error. Another job off the list.

Took the bumper bar irons to my body guy and after a while we both decided that at one point the car had a decent rear end hit and they have to be heated and repositioned to the correct angle. If I mounted them now the bumper bar would be 3" higher than where it should be.





Hey all,

Been a bit distracted lately as my wife wanted a little garden shed so I built a timber frame for the base and bought a kit shed. All togother and another job off the list.

Picked up the rear bumper bar and irons from my body guy. He said they needed two full days work to get them to a reasonable condition and get the bents out of the bumper bar. I think she'd had a few wacks in the rear. Anyhow to temporarily set them up I put a bolt through the hole with a high tensile washer to give it support. Then I put the stainless steel sleeve with an end that had been TIG welded on. The sat the bumper iron on followed by the remade retainer and then I tightened it up. Came up looking reasonably good. I need to now check measurements and make sure it is level etc..














Hey all,

Got holes in Bumper irons filled and a slight adjustment then both of them and the retainers off to the powdercoater. also took the Bumper bar to the plater and that should take about 3 weeks. Installed the new bolts inside the spare wheel holders which attach to the support bracket. Also Knobless ( Steve ) sent me a pic of a moulded floor plate I was missing. Worked out some dimensions from his picture, attacked another "Trespassers Prosecuted" sign and cut out a template. Finished and sprayed black and fitted first go.











Well still progressing.....Picked up the Rear Bumper Bar Irons and retainers from the powdercoater, I think they came up a treat.

Received the 9/16 Stainless dome nuts from my friends at the Restoration Supply Company.....very efficient business they run.

Also Tony who also has a 34 came over the other night and helped me put the rear window in. I must say, getting a few things on the car does spur you along.

I'm off tomorrow to find some Bailey Channel.

Out of interest, with the doors ....do they have a door pull of some description, or was it that you just pulled on the inside handle ?









Window channel looks good, glad I could help. glad to see your lever etc are pitted too.........and I thought it was just mine !!!. I'm still getting my too front frames back to some reasonable order. Mine were very pitted around the corners. also waiting on the chroming guy to finish my rear bumper, everything else is done so as soon as that arrives I can fit it. My window glass guy came over the other day and he's tweeting the rear window rubber he made for me, and again once done I can fit into the car. I've started with a bailey channel I bought and hopefully I'll get one fitted this weekend among a million other jobs I have to do. I'll post some pics when done.

Allrighty then,

Still plodding along.

I'm tackling the windows in the rear door at the moment. I've had the glass made and I removed the original glass from one of the channels and I couldn't believe the amount of much I got from it.

Cleaned up and painted the channel as well as both window winders and installed both window winders after applying some new grease. Also bent the bailey channel to suit. Its one thing getting the glass in but then to get the Bailey Channel in, in one piece is proving to be a bit of a task. Looks good once its in but still having trouble getting it in when the glass is already in there. Must be a trick to it.

I think my rear bumper will be ready Thursday so going over to pick it up.










Hey all,

Went and picked up my rear bumper from the platers yesterday. Also my new bumper bar bolts had sitting here a while so buffed them up. Mounted the irons in place then for once everything bolted according to plan ! I also picked up the two rear tail light housings that he double copper dipped so now I can start working on these as well. I also anchored the rear window and using black polyeurathane I put some in the channel and aligned it up. I did cut about 1/4" off each end of the channel so it won't catch on the bailey channel when installed. Overall not a bad days work !











Hey all,

A few more small steps done.

My wife sewed the covers that go over the door lock arms, I guess they were to stop vibration rattles or if they ever touched the glass wouldn't rattle. Also cleaned out the second rear door channel, primed and painted. Its now mounted on the glass with polyeurathane and drying. Did a bit more work on the taillights but still have a long way to go. With the help of my brother we finally got the Bailey Channel in the rear door with the glass in. Now all I have to do if fix it in place then start on the other side.








Finally got the Bailey Channel fitted into place.

The steps I used were as follows incase anyone is interested and tackles this.

First using polyeurathane, glue the window to the channel bar making sure the bar and the window are the right way around.

Once dried and using the glass as a template and with both hands, SLOWLY bend the bailey channel to suit. Once this is done you can then insert this in the door and check for the correct length. Remove and set aside.

Remember to put low adheasive masking tape around the painted surface of the door window opening.

Grease the winding mechanism and attach to the inside of the door.

Then wind the winder up so the arm is protruding above the opening in the door.

Next insert the window and glass assembly into the winder arm that is protruding above the opening in the door and gently proceed to wind the window down inside the door while holding and centering it on the way down.

Next insert the Bailey Channel and again gently push evenly down the sides of the glass into the supporting metal channels in the door. Now these will catch at the top of the channels so you will need to tease these into the top of the supporting metal channels. I was able to access this point through the door lock tongue hole in the side of the door. I used a nifty little plastic trim tool from a set I bought on ebay for about $10.

Once the channel has been lowered I again used these tools to gently open up a space between the bailey channel and the door frame so I could put in some dabs of polyeurathane.

Once this is done and pushing the bailey channel so the stainless steel beed aligns up with the door frame I then used 3 quick release clamps to keep one side in place.

This stuff takes approx. a week to reach full strength so you have to wait.

Repeat for the top of the door and then the other side.

After all three have been done and all clamps removed, remove the tape, clean the window and the end result looks pretty good.

It is a long time to wait for each side but I think the end result is worth it.

Also I retapped the holes for the door handle attaching screws as with cleaning, painting etc these were full of muck.

Hope you found this interesting.























Hi all,

Steve, thanks for that and let me know what I owe you. The insides of those tail lights look new....as always you do a great job !

I haven't been sitting around....I've actually finished 2 rear door including handles. I must say holding a handle does have a nice feel about it. Both rear door locks are in place as are the windows and winders. I haven't put the striker plates on yet as I'm constantly opening and closing the doors.

Had one slight hiccup. The left side rear wind out window all of a sudden developed a chip in it near the top. Just when I thought I was home and hosed with the wind out windows. Never mind, two steps forward and one step back !









Back to the Dodge now its cooling off a bit.

Trial fitted the cowl vent, removed the screen and started to put the opening handle in place. Decided to shorten the screws that hold the screen in place.

Did that and made a little pin the hold the opening lever in position. Shortened it and wire brushed the rough edges with the wire brush wheel.

While I was doing that the vibration through the bench vibrated the finished cowl vent along to the edge and you guessed it, it fell onto the concrete. Bugger.

Took it back to the painter and while I was there borrowed next doors sand blaster to clean up my third tail light assembly.

Came up looking good so I made 2 good ones out of the three I have as two of the lens retention clips were broken off ( rusted I guess ).

Cleaned them up and riveted them in place. Gave them a good coat of etch primer and then some black paint.

Happy with the result.

Now the cowl vent has been repainted I can get on with installing it.

Also bought some black radiator overflow tube I'll use for the drain tube for the cowl vent.









I has a brainstorm after reading your posts about reflective insides of the tail light. I was working on my low voltage outdoor lighting and replacing Dichroic Halogen globes with LED and the spotlights have a reflective cone I have to remove to the LED's will fit.

I got this cone and ground the opening with my Dremel tool and it seems to fit well. I may have to shave a bit off the rim when it goes inside the housing but overall looks ok.

Also picked up the front window frames from the electroplater yesterday. I have two roller buffers that seem to align up with the holes in the frame. Can anyone confirm that these attach to the front door window frames ??

Had a little visitor on our deck handrail. The Kookaburra's are looking for food.











Okey dokey....time to fit the cowl vent.

Now that the vent has been resprayed after my little accident. I used chalk to mark around the opening. Sat the black neoprene over it and using a scalple cut out the pattern.

A few minor adjustment and it sat snugly in place.

I then tucked the vent in place and attached the opening linkage. Now the moment of truth where I had to repair the opening handle support bracket. It fitted after a few goes and opened and closed well. IIt looked more like a surgical procedure than working on a car. Only problem is that I thought the ball bearing went in after I fitted the handle....wrong...removed everything and had to hold the spring loaded handle, support arm bits and the linkage and at the same time push the pivot link into place. Came up working well using Knobless's repair kit I got from him. Well done Steve....it works.

Reattached the front screen ( after dropping the screws down the drain tube ) and a happy result.....and no further scratches.

After that I attached the drain tube and ran it down the side if the inside of the cowl. I might use some polyeurathane just to hold in place.













Hey all,

Started on the front window reassemble.

First step was to make sure that the vent window frame fitted into the upper pivot hole. After chroming I had to redrill the correct size so both fit well now.

Cleaned up the front window slide mechanisms, vent window pivot mechanism and the vent window worm gear and housings.

All came up pretty well.












Hi all,

You know when you have a job to do and you put it off because you are really hesitant that you might stuff it up completely ?

This was one of those jobs......reinstalling the window locking mechanism.

Ok, so I got the frame and my cleaned up locking mechanism and checked with an old frame to make sure everything is around the correct way. Well that fits !

Then I got my brass rivet ( from the Restoration Supply Company ) and put into the hole. I used a piece of thick aluminium and drilled a countersink approx. the size of the head of the rivet to sit it in. And with a cloth over it, turned it over and taped the other side to avoid any scratches. I googled how to "peen" a rivet and after a few short clips I started peening !

Seemed to work well and a few of them needed a bit of finishing. I then installed the vent wind out window gear support bracket in place and realised this should have been done first as it was a real struggle to get it in. Checking back with my photos this was taken out second so should have been installed first. Never mind we eventually got it in and again went through the process with the rivets. Overall the job came off better than I( and my brother ) expected. He was holding the frame which made it a little easier. We also realised that sitting the aluminium that the rivet head sits in on a solid price of steel rather than a wooden block made it for effective as when you peen the rivet it tends to bounce with wood.

I'll repeat this process for the other side a bit later on.












A bit more to report.

I dragged out a envelope that I received from the States 9 years ago with new vent window seal rubbers in it ( took a while to find I can tell you ! ).

These came with instructions too and after applying a little dishwashing liquid to then and a lot of prodding with a blunt instrument all I can say is WOW what a fit.

These things looked like they had come off the production line in 34. Next step was to check the frames which also fitted like a glove. Final step is to check the glass and frame together in the seal and with a bit of adjustment I applied a few daps of Polyeurathane to hold them in place and let dry.

I also tried to fix one of the window rollers. Should be ok and use some new rubber tubing. Sorry about those pics its a bit blurry.














Still going at it. I'm still getting the dints out of the rear tail light housings. I also had a couple of brackets made up by my daughters boyfriend for the rear indicators. I want to paint the bottom of them and I'll polish the tops to match.

I've inserted the vent window glass in their frames and waiting for the polyeurathane to dry...see how it looks !




Got a phone call today from the electroplater. Picked up the horn grills, sun visor arms and clamps, along with vent window straps and opening arms. Came up really well especially given the time I put into them. I did finish as best as I could the rear tail lights. They are going to fill a hole in one and recover in copper. One he said was perfect ( obviously the less dint I had to start with ) the other he can feel ribs around it. It must be slightly out of round. Anyhow I'll see when they come back.





A bit more progress. I installed the rear indicator light brackets, completed the wiring and mounted the indicators.

These were originally for a motorcycle but I think the shape compliments the rear tail lights ( if and when I ever get them finished ).

I did buy there 9 years ago now so I must have been thinking ahead then !







Bit more progress, I finished mounting the glass in the vent window frames after a lot of adjusting and readjusting. After letting them dry for a week I cleaned the glass and mounted the window assembly in the frame. Had to clean up these teenie tiny screws that go in the base that hold the vent window to the ventilator pivot base. They seem to open and shut fine. I checked the door ventilator control assembly and found something odd. Each assembly has a ventilator driven disc that when you turn the handle inside the car, another disc turns and rotates another disc by hitting these paddles against each other. The problem is I have two sets and the main driven disc is turned around and faces backwards. Not making sense is it ?

You cant swap them over as its specific for each side of the car. I don't think it matters and the same action happens whether you open the vent window or close it. The disc still has to rotate back and forth. Anyhow I'm going to use the ones I've cleaned up.

My daughter had her debutante last weekend and we had 3 stretch limos in out Court. One was a Dodge stretch !!





Hey all,

A bit more progress. A while ( long time ) ago I posted a problem I had with y horns where the thread broke away from the main horn body. I got a guy up the road to make up a tapered fitting that would sit inside the trumpet and a threaded fitting would then screw over it on the outside giving the same look at the original horn.

After getting the horns chrome painted and installing the mounting fittings, I was able to get the mesh grills in the front of them and the end result I think looks pretty awsome. Very happy with the two of them.

Currently working on about 5 things at once so I'm jumping back and forth as things slow down. The biggest job is the front windscreens I'm still working on. I'll post some more pics when I sort them out.










Is it just me or do some of the fiddly things take a huge amount of time to sort out ?

I started working on the wiring inserts for the rear tail lights. The originals look a little worse for wear. Even the start with cleaned up brass backing plate and temp wires looked heaps better. I took them to a guy at work who resoldered the wires using original type wire that was left over from the Vintage Wiring Loom I had made. ( I wish I could solder like that and it took him 10 minutes ). Polished the insides of where the bulb goes and fitted the connectors in place.

Next I'm working on the wiper motors ( not original but they came with the car......no sign of the original ones ) and the pin that opens the locking mechanism for the vent window.










Finally a bit more progress. I started out by using stainless steel and made a pin but I found I couldn't peen it over. I then decided to use some solid brass rod. To hold it I got 2 pieces of wood and drilled a smaller hole to hold the rod in place. Cut the rod to the right size and hand filed it down to suit the vent window latch lever. Once one side was done redid the other side to suit the cam. After a mock set up got my brother to hold it and gently peened each side over. Then the next tricky bit was to get the Window Support Connecting Link in place. Maybe I should have done this first before anything was assembled. Eventually got the after a long of trial and error. All I have to do now is hope the mechanism still works. Then its just the felt in the channels and the anti rattle liners and its finished. Easy said than done.....this step alone has taken ages.













Thought I'd do something that was pretty straight forward......not really

I got the two pull knobs that had new wires attached to them, the two inserts that were rechromed and the cable housing that I cleaned up and sprayed black.

I used the same blocks of wood that I used for the pivot rod and put the black cable housing in it. I then got the two inserts and put the over the cable housings and using a rubber mallet tapped them in place. Once done I got the pull knob wire and after running it through my gloves laced with grease I inserted it in the housing all the way through. Once done I repeated for the other assembly and then installed them in the car. I'll tighten everything up on the carburettor a bit later on.










Did some work on the electricals the other day.

As my light switch was non existent, I bought an old one from the States which came with a nice chrome knob.

Connected the wires and installed it in the dash.

Also got an ignition switch ( again, mine was beyond repair ) and using a 1934 Dodge door lock escutcheon and a rubber grommet I was able to get a finished product that looks authentic. I had to make a plate that sat behind the dash so now once that part of the electrics is sorted should be ready to install. Incidently the guy who had the car before me cut off the original ignition switch bracket which I tried to remount but after the car was painted was too late once I found out where it went.

One of the pitfalls I guess of not being able to disassemble the car myself.

Anyhow, a bit more progress !









Dropped into the plater and picked these guys up. Looking a lot better than when I started......and the big holes are gone !




More progress.....

Painted the cover supports that go over the front bumper irons and a bracket I made up to house the flasher cam and a relay.

Found a good use for my wife's rose bushes !!!

Also got the internals of the rear tail lights sorted out. Couldn't get the internal back in at first so then I put the ending in my vice and gently squeezed them and moved the tail light housing along a bit at a time. End result was they went in and no damage to the chrome housing.

Next I might tackle the instrument panel and see how that goes.











More progress,

Thought I'd tackle one of the rear tail lights today. As there wasn't any earth I made up a cable that I attached under the rear guard which is hidden. Soldered the wires and used heat shrink to protect the joins. Using the new screws mounted the housing and then reinserted a reflective lens that I modified from an outdoor spotlight previously. Overall happy with the result, so I might try the other side next.

Tomorrow, I'm off to an American Motoring Show at Flemington Racecourse ( where they hold the Melbourne Cup horse race ) and weather is suppose to be exceptional so looking forward to that.









Spend a few hours today having a go at fitting the instrument panel. When I started I thought I may have had to have done this before the choke and throttle cable went in but getting it on its side and between the cables and steering column I was able to gently push it in place and it fitted first go. Tightened the screws and removed the low adhesion tape and another job done ! Finally something that didn't have to be modified, bent, scraped or drilled out.






A bit more work done. I tackled the other side rear tail light housing and the fit was better than the other side I did previously. I also wired up the dome light wire and instrument panel wire. Next I'll do the ignition switch etc, then I'll move on the the horn wiring. I may not install the actual horn trumpets until I get the car back from the upholsterer.







Bit more progress. I instanned the ignition switch and have made up a few short connecting wires.

All I have to do now is fit the freewheeling cable assembly and thats all the knobs on the dash completed.

Where I installed the front window operating levers, the chrome chipped when I was peening the brass rod over. Looks like I'll have to remove them and redo both of them ( could only stuff up one could I !!!!! )






Did a bit of work on the wiring today. Finished making up a little control panel that bolts up under the dash. This houses starter switch, relay, fuel pump switch and flasher cam. Finally had the opportunity to test the rear indicator lights to see if they actually work......Its alive !!!!

Next I'll wire up the turn indicator switch and mount that.




More progress. Finished off the wiring for the Indicators and mounted the turn switch I've had for five or six years.

Also got the front bumper back from my body guy. ( again it was bent everywhere where I'm sure the previous owner used it to touch park ).

All the original mounting bolts etc are long gone so using a similar method to the rear bumper I found / made some mounting pieces.

The hole in one fender was quite large so I got a couple large soft grommets and using a scalpel widened the inside so it would go in the fender.

I then used a thick stainless steel washer, solid rubber spacer, stainless steel flange, bumper iron, cover backing plate and bolt in that order and bolted one side up.

Worked well so repeated the other side. Moment of truth....mock bolt up of the front bumper. It actually fitted perfectly with the gaps between the bottom of the fender and the top of the bumper almost exactly the same. Only issue was the bumper iron at each far end was back from the bumper about 1 1/2" so I'll have the heat and bend them back and get them repowder coated. Overall pleased with the result so I can now take the bumper bar to the plater.















A few more shots.......




Dropped into the body guy and we adjusted the bumper irons. Then it was off to the chrome platers and dropped the bumper off to him. On the way back dropped into the powdercoaters for them to redo the bumper irons.

While I was at the body guy I had a look at a 1934 Chrysler Roadster ( fairly rare ) and a 34 Dodge 2 door that was half way through being rodded. Next was a Lamborghini which had a front panel damage. When he repaired it and was sanding it back he came across an enormous amount of filler. Literally 1/2". He had the owner call in but just wanted it refilled......at least my Dodge has no filler !


Anyhow back to reality and a bit more on the Dodge.




Got excited the other day ( not unusual these days ! ). I received a phone call from my Plater guy and my front bumper bar was ready to be picked up.

Also received a phone call from the powdercoaters and the Bumperbar irons were also ready.

Now hopefully over the coming week I'll be able to install it and see how she looks with a bit more bling.







Thankyou for the kind remarks. I'm just sorry it's taking so long as I am getting a little anxious to drive the car. I guess not have a complete car to start with I'm improvising in some areas but still trying to maintain the original look of the 34. I have a lot a friends at home that follow my progress and often check on me to see where I'm at........I've promised them I'll take them for a drive when she's finished.

Work also gets in the way as I'm basically back working full time so I try and squeeze as much time in the garage as possible. I was hoping to get the bumper bar fitted this weekend but didn't get time so instead I painted a few small parts ready for when it gets fitted up.

I'll keep posting pics as I believe this forms a good reference point for others down the track and I too get lots of ideas from other posts on the great forum.




G'day all,

After a lot of mucking around I finally got a chance to do a temporary set up of the bumper bar and irons for the front.

Using all the stuff in my previous post I attached the irons. Has to use a few washers as spacers and bolted them up.

Moment of truth.....the front bumperbar. I felt the angle of the front bumper was turned up a bit so I grinded the ends of the flanges I had made with a slight angle.

this angles the irons down a bit as well as the bumper bar. After a bit of adjustment the bolts went in so off to a good start.

As I'm putting indicators on the car my daughter's boyfriend is making up a couple of brackets to hold them in place and then I'll be able to tighten and align everything up.








Well finally been able to do some work on the Dodge. After our summer has passed and my daughter has had her 18th Birthday and party and she got her licence I can get back to work on the Dodge.

A number of posts ago I may have mentioned my neighbour got a skip in and basically cleaned out his garage.

While throwing a few things in there myself I noticed something shinny. Pulled it out and it was a new indicator light what looked like was off a motorcycle. Jumped in the skip to see if I could find the other one.

Found it !

So years later ( yesterday ) I made up a few brackets and drilled the holes to support the indicator lights. Looking closely at them they have "Harley Davidson" on them so that was a real find.

Connected the wiring and soldered the joints and used heat shrink to cover the joins.

I think they look ok and will match the front headlights.



















Well finally been able to get back to doing some work on the Dodge.

Bought an adaptor plug that goes into the side of the block that the temperature gauge sensor goes in and then installed the sensor.

Made up a wire run for the Oil Pressure Gauge out of a coat hanger. Got it to sit properly and the black part will be the flexible hose.

I'll get this made up out of copper ( 3/16" I think ) and then I'll post a few shots.

Still working on the front windows and the broken rear wind out window.

Now I'm in for the long haul until she's finished.










You never know.....as the title says....slow progress !!!

Got the copper pipe and bent it to the correct shape.

Now if I thought about it earlier this should have been one of the first things I put in the car....not one of the last.

So it took my brother and I about an hour to position it in such a place we could get it through the firewall.

I'll have to remove the holding clamp when I put the grommet surround on it but at least its set up for the time being.

When I finished that I was able to set up and install the right side block and surround around the choke cables.





Well thought I was being clever and fitting the temperature sensor in the block. I forgot about the solid surround for the grommet didn't I !!

Drain the radiator, pull the sensor out and feed it through the surround and put it back again. Lesson learned.


I went to straighten the free wheeling cable that was given to me by Tony ( Tinkeys ) and of course it snaps when I tried to straighten it didn't it.

Found a guy who recommended me to another guy about where to get one made. Dropped it off and the next day I get a phone call....its ready to pick up !


Fitted it in the car ( the dash board fitting first ) so that now completes the control knobs fitted to the dash. :)


Also found a guy in New Zealand that does hubcaps and he's made a die for the 34's, so I'm in the process of following that up.









Hi Dave,

I've taken a few shots so you can get a good look at it. Hope this helps !!


Richard. My grommets were in one piece but in halves so I've opted to use the originals and use polyeurethane to seal them once all the cables are in place.

I've used it before and dries solid and is flexable enough to allow for vibration.











Back to it....finally.

This task today was to install the rubber grommet ( the two pieces I have ) without scratching the firewall.

I think I got all 3 connections through the block ok and everything is tightened up.

Last week I sent away my hubcap bases to a guy in New Zealand who is making new skins for them. I'll post pictures when I get them back.

Has anyone remade the little rollers that sit inside the drivers and passenger front doors ? I have the right size tubing but the hole is too big and I need some sort of round spacer.










Finally connected the oil pressure gauge line both behind the instrument panel and into the block. The red wire in front will disappear once the correct wiring is hooked up.

Also pulled apart the wind out window that cracked and I'll replace that as soon as I get a new one.


This is a 1934 Chrysler Roadster that the guy who did my body work owns. He's put it together temporarily so he can find a buyer. ( $40k to $50k ). Body is done and a lot of hard to find things too !










Great build what a beauty! Fun family picture BTW

Posted by Diggymart on 1/31/19 @ 4:17:12 PM