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More GTO look, EFI, AMG supercharger, Supertrapps and Magnaflows.
Compliments of bert308 @ ferrarichat.com
Now that I have your attention...
There are several older threads I started about my car, 1980 GTSI US converted to GTO look. Conversion took 3 years and I drove for 2 years with pleasure in snow and sun, until one morning at 4:15 on the way to my job on an empty new highway (speed adjusted accordingly) along the woods at the german border, a fox crossed my way.
The insurance adjuster agreed to pay me the price for a replica GTO spoiler and grille from Italian Design (Butch Hooper?) and a few hundred for mounting and painting. Ok. Instead I put an order for this money at Superformance and order new suspension bushes, their uprated springs, the quick steering rack and some small stuff.
I wasn't satisfied with the color my 308 had, Porsche Indisch Rot that I found to bright, so I decided for a full respray and some more work. I started to make a GTO style rear lid.
Since I was at it, and I had the new suspension bushes, why not go all the way? These things in the pictures are paperweights...shaped like 308 rear suspension arms but if you would actually mount them on a car, the rear wheels would sit 60 mm to far out and 60 mm to far to the back of the car...
I decided to fit these paperweights to my car anyway, of course then the fenders would be in the way.
Started making new fenders, second pic: That's more like it
Bought new bushing for the A-arms. Also made new front fenders, I made extensions for the front wheels suspension just for size, will have to make new a-arms. ALso bought a damged 328 front hood grille
Work continues on the rear lid.
The construction of the hinges took a lot of trying and retrying, it won't open if just hinged from the front or rear, the GTO has a ridge around the lid making the actual lid smaller, 2 movies:
Also made a new front grille. Looked at many GTO pics and my models and somehow never noticed a GTO has 4 horizontal bars and not 3...not gonna change it though, the 4th bar would sit invisible under the bumper unless one kneels down before the car.
Also I always thought the GTS spoiler lip above the front screen ugly, removed.
An order from Summit USA came in. Supertrapps (I got the idea from "PAD") and magnaflows. PAD has only the Supertrapps but that seemed a little loud. I now have a full dual system that passes the "pingpongball test", the ball could go through the exhaust. I thought about hooking up the ignition and fuelsystem to test but everything was dirty including timingbelts so I better didn't. Am curious though!
Fitting the 328 grille. Not as easy as I thought because the spacing is different from the grilles behind the headlights (that a 328 doesn't have) so I had to make new sides.
more work, fitted the original rear lid locks, new trunk floor. Now what is that piece of paper?
All my work this spring/summer was being watched by this "red-chest" little bird, who had it's nest right above my car. It raised 2 youngs between all my noise making.
Time for thinking. While looking at my dirty engine, and all the removed dirty old ignition and Bosch Kjet stuff, I thought, am I going to put that back in, all these wires and plumbing hanging loose. I decided to go EFI and after researching ordered a Mega Squirt II. This will be combined with Ford EDIS 8 distributerless ignition, it needs a trigger wheel installed. EDIS 8 module and wheel sourced from the USA (we don't have V8 Fords on the wrecking yards) the ignition modules and spark plug cable plugs I scored locally from 4 cylinder Fords. The sensor is mounted on the front valve belt cover with room for adjustment.
Installing the "missing tooth" Ford trigger wheel. It seems I cannot complete a single job without loss of blood.
I was thinking, with the Bosch fuel distributer out of the way, I can plan in a supercharger there for the future. A used Eaton M90 (like MarkE had on his first setup) cost only a few hundred. Then I looked further and inquired to the Lysholm company for dealers or importers, they didn't had any and didn't want to sell me one directly. Then I saw an ebay ad for a new unused Mercedes SL55 AMG supercharger for a price a bit less then the Lysholm, Opcon or other screwtype superchargers. After 1 day considering I bought it...
I will not mount it on top of the engine, I can't build my own manifold like MKE or wildegroot so it will be mounted near the rear fire wall. I also plan 2 intercoolers, horizontal "GTO-style" air-to-air, maybe not the best solution technically but it will look cool! Ordered 2 Audi S4 ugrade side mount coolers for that.
I forgot, above pics, the AMG charger has internal gearing, 46x34. I found some Ford 6 groove pulley and belt to test fit, it is 13 cm and with that I have a final drive of 2:1 so the thing will spin 14000 rpm at 7000 engine rpm and the other rotor will spin even >23000 rpm. This last number was mentioned in some Mercedes documentation for the 55AMG, with mention of kg air/hour and I calculated the Kompressor must be a 2 ltr unit. But, I have seen 3 types, a smaller one for the 32AMG, mine that is longer by 2 "squares" (the grid on top of the blower) and I saw a picture of mine on a G class 55AMG, but the SL 55AMG has a blower that is yet 1 square longer. And then there is the SLR mcLaren that has also this supercharger (and up to 700 HP). Documentation on the web is not found, I only found out the unit is made by IHI Japan. So, I'm still figuring out what I have and what pulley to use, I will start conservative. My youngest brother works at a place that sells industrial drives so I asked him to see what proper 8 groove pulleys and belts they have, the AMG has the 8 groove "8PK" type.
The AMG (I will call the Kompressor AMG from now on, shortest) had this Merc specific side air channels, output is on the bottom, then it goes through watercooled intercoolers through the channels cast to the AMG (in the original setup). I cut of the Merc specific stuff, ha. Also it had these four strange outlets on the drive side. But that seemed to be only waterchannels for the intercoolers, was afraid for a monent the AMG needs it's oil from the engine system. Of course I spilled the prefilled oil when I opened up the thing. I used these water channels to make mounts, cut a thread in them with a sliced bolt.
Well, this shiny new AMG, new intercoolers, and all the stuff from my engine removed, I decided I might just as well remove the engine for a good cleaning, painting and so on. Also I realized I have the original exhaust valves (sodium) and cast pistons. They were good enough for years to come if I just drove the thing, but for performance I need better. So the heads will come of and I will see what needs to be done. ($$$)
Engine room is cleaned by now (forgot to take pics), made a new rear alu wall.
You can see the new position of the rear suspension tops relative to the old ones.
Made strong mounts for the AMG, yes it looks a hack job but strong it is and once evertything is painted black and in the car it looks better, also then the vertical struts won't be visible. The idler for the belt is just a try, it will need to be stronger with a wider pulley.
The megasquirt with Innovate LC1 wide band controller arrived (after being at the Dutch customs for 3 weeks) and also the longer drive shafts. This is a nice story, I called around local places what to do about the drive axles, they can only lengthen large diameter hollow axles (like for a small truck that gets a longer wheelbase). Then I remembered from this forum the 308 has the same CV joints as some VW bus and I found that also the Porsche 911 turbo (930) has these. So I thought maybe some VW or P has the right size axle for me. And guess what, the off road VW baja-beach-buggy-boys used these 930 CV on their aircooled VW based vehicles and as a result these axles are available in any size up to enough to create a 3 meter wide thing. Unfortunately the 2 sizes closest to the ones I need were either on the lower limit or upper limit, I ordered the longer ones but they can easily be shortened by 15 mm and then cut the grooves for the retainers, 2 per side. That i did today but took no pictures.
Just posting my thoughts on the AMG unit. It has a nice electrical operated drive clutch. Mercedes uses thes units without a bypass valve. The clutch is engaged by the engine management depending on engine load (MAP) and RPM. If the clutch is engaged and engine load is low for 10 seconds or so the clutch disengages. Interesting I read somewhere the clutch won't engage at RPM above 3000 because the load on the belt would be too high. I wondered how that would be in practice, cruising on the Autobah in your ubercar you wan't power but you first have to bring the revs down to below 3000?
Anyway, there is no bypass and the author of a test for these cars speculated the engine draws it's air through the screws of the AMG, with some drag. But I think, the clutch while disengaged has still some drag. If I spin the pulley by hand, the screws will spin a little too. I think while driving (cruising), the drag in the clutch and the vacuum on engine side will be enough to freewheel the screws to provide just the right amount of air, without putting load on the drive belt (fuel economy). Then when you demand power the clutch will be engaged. I would want to use this setup too then, without bypass valve. I have removed the airco from my car long ago but I will want to use the airco fan switch for the AMG: always off, automatic, or always on. The automatic will be depending on MAP, have to see if the MSII can do that without having to write extra code (that I could do but that means more studying for me).
You don't know me well but you will learn hehe, I don't have any fancy machinery so I just started cutting the grooves with a handsaw with steel cutting blade. Though the teeth were getting less sharp soon so I just used a thin disc in the angled grinder :-) It's not very critical, I gave the CV 1 mm playroom or so and the retainers springs hold well, there is not really any force to them. I only cut through the splines so the base circle remains intact, I'm not to worried about strength loss. In the description of the axles it is said they are designed to spool up under load to reduce stress, well here is the page I bought them from: http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/...susp%20IRS.htm
Gee, magnafluxing? I'll just draw a straight line on them and see afterwards if the line is still straight...
My axles are ready but it will be a while...
Yes, the engine bay looks very inviting to a longitudinal engine, exactly my thoughts. But we have some rules over here and a SC I can unbold and even I can return the regular suspension arms (though it would look funny), it is not allowed to change the wheelbase. I discussed everything with the guy that does the yearly check on my car, he always says, everything that is not forbidden is allowed. The law has become less strict, you were not allowed to weld on "wheel guiding elements" even not replacing a rusted spring retainer on a solid rear axle but now that is allowed. "Even making your own suspension arms?" I asked, Sure he said. Wheelbase is never measured only if they suspect serious accident damage to the frame.
Wanted to make a baseplate for the inlet on the SC, but got the bolt holes wrong. So I took a picture from distance at full tele in order to print it at real size to make a template. I ordered two used 65mm Ford Explorer 5.0 throttle bodies (idea from "wildegroot") but I better wait until they arrived so I can see how I build the inlet, either steel base plate with formed steel inlet channels to the TBs or a thick (40 mm/1.5inch) alu spacer that I will cut the channels in. At my job we have this nice green plastic stuff that is easily machined and temp resistant, they make all kinds of things from it, I could use that too maybe.
My brother (the one that doesn't hate cars) was there today working on his Alfasud, so I could borrow his air impact wrench that he normally locks up to remove the remaining 2 engine mounts from the chassis, they spin just around in their housing if using a normal wrench. Also cleaned the engine bay with some black paint here and there, welded the trunk floor and put in dampening mats and some left over carpet, now I can throw tools and parts in there without worry. Eventually there will be black wilton whool of highest quality in there of course. Or something nice the carpet store around the corner has.
The side pockets in the trunk were the 3 side vents will be, will have an open bottom and the side vents will be "real" in the way that the openings are not closed as in the previous setup. However they will do nothing really, not even removing hot air from the rear tires because the innner wheel wells will still shield the tires. Water that enters through the side vents just drop on the street, also the rear lid vents are closed in the rear 1/3 part, don't want water in my trunk, and they drain on the drain channels and to then to the right and left side openings. There will be removable panels left and right, alu 1.5 mm with carpet glued to it, that clamp on top under the seal rubber lip. The left one will have a pocket in it for the MegaSquirt. I can remove the panels for acces and cleaning of the side pockets, dividing line is between the rear lights.
And I realized today, I will need to make an engine stand. Also realized, to remove the pistons, I need to seperate the gearbox from the engine. Obvious you might think, but I just realized today how much work that will be. The way the engine is sitting now, resting on it motor mounts, could I just unbolt the lower part and lift the engine from the gearbox section, or are there hidden things in there like oilpump? What I mean is, could it be seperated without removing the engine and/or gearbox sump cover first? Of course the bellhousing will have to removed. I better start making a clean corner in the shed I'm working for all the parts.
Thanks. I will seperate the gearbox tomorrow this way, today I decided to remove the heads first, now that the engine is standing solid on it's feet.
Everything went well, one head more stuck than the other but could have been worse and good thing the engine was out of the car, acces to all sides was needed. The pistons and liners all looked good, I could feel no ridges and saw the crossing hone lines. Only now that I see the pictures I see the light vertical scratches. I hope I can be done with only rehoning. Should I remove the liners and take them to the engine shop and let the guy there tell me what to do? Let´s see what to do if I have the pistons out.
Also removed all the valves from the heads. Look how that injector is looking straight at the inlet valve, begs for sequential just in time injection I know...
All the inlet valves look nice, they will stay. So these are the infamous sodium filled exhaust valves? They look nice and innocent. On the stem it reads EL106553 E, now somebody tells me I´m lucky and they have already been replaced.
I could wiggle the valves a bit (with the springs removed) in there guides, the outlets more than the inlets, about 0.5 mm or 0.02 inch, is that to much? All my cars (Alfas and Lancia) had this without a problem.
Made a template on the PC for the SC inlet. Also a pic of my boost gauge hehe. It is BIG. And big fun, why not. I want to print or make a new dial, orange on black background, but how does one generally remove the needle on these things, I pulled on it but it didn´t give.
Someone else mentioned that too, but because of regulations and even more work I won't, plus I like to keep the trunk.
Removed the bellhousing and clutch today. Bad news for the budget, the clutch shaft splines are worn for 50% and the gear wheel is not much better it could be rotated a lot on the shaft, they need to be replaced and are probably worth their weight in gold as new parts. For a while I thought my crank was gone, happy to find it is only a short shaft. Of course it had to be, how else can the clutch disengage. The ringnut on the shaft was loose though but was still retained by the dent in the locking collar, also the ringnut was re-used because the collar had more dents.
Maybe someone here has these parts, shaft and gear? Otherwise I'll have to start the hunt here in the Netherlands at some places I know that might have used parts or maybe Forza in.
The clutch. Was good for many more miles, I have never worn out a clutch. I am interested in the kevlar clutch Norwood is offering on an exchange basis but have to enquire if I just can get a re-lined friction disc and have some cleanup machining done locally to the flywheel and pressure plate so these heavy items don't have to cross the ocean twice.
Intercoolers arrived today. Not polished like the pic on their website, but that's fine, even better. You can really see the handmade nature of these, so they are appropiate for my car. I looked at all 2000 intercoolers on ebay and printed some real size on pieces of paper and these were the only ones that would fit other than having a pair custom made. These are an upgrade for the Audi S4, the original S4 ones sell for <100 on ebay but they are always dirty and with plastic endcaps.
A photoshop with the planned layout. Yes the inlet plenum will be rotated 180 degrees (is possible without mods) with a Y shaped inlet.
Seperated the gearbox, made an engine stand but that wasn't a great succes. Pulled the pistons and liners. I thought I had a virgin engine but saw 2 marks were someone (tried to) knockout liners, I made a puller. I removed 1 crank baring cap and it looked perfect, I don't think I will remove the crank. The piston barings looked a little dark and worn, those I'll replace. Pistons and liners all looked OK with similar light wear marks. You could see the cross hatching in the liners but on the bottom off the liners were the pistons don't ride you see how it originally was after factory honing, the rest is more like polished. I will put some liners, pistons, a cilinder head, some valves and the main baring cap together and take it to the engine shop for advice what to do.
Wish it was my garage but it isn't dad still keeps his agricultural stuff and never ever throws anything away (I made parts from 1920 vintage stuff) and my brother has 2 cars in parts. Here is another pic, there are many more boxes with parts I hate how my car is spread all over the place. Good thing the intercoolers came in 5 boxes, a big one and then ever smaller ones like those russian puppets, I needed clean boxes to store engine parts. Will be a great relief if the engine is back together save in the car.
Good thing I pulled the crank, some of the bearings were not as good as the one I first examined. I loaded the crank, a head, some liners, a piston and some example valves in the Lancia and will visit the engine shop after work tomorrow for opinion and estimate, if the guy has time to examine my stuff.
So I went to the engine shop today. The guy was happy to get a work order for a Ferrari he only had a few before, but I guess the parts look like just any other car. He was surprised to find that the cast original pistons were English made (Is it really from a Ferrari?) and when he picked up a conrod he said, ow, that's heavy.
No other surprises. The inlet valve guides were like new, just like all the in/ex seats, crank looked fine, he thought the exhaust valves were fine too and when I told him they were prone to break he thought I was exaggerating, I said they can break when dropped on the floor, he said, they don't drop on the floor when they are inside an engine do they?, anyway I will replace them with either the ones superformance UK has or Norwood but also the engine guy will see if he can find some from his suppliers. Superformance and Norwood offer the forged JE pistons, SPF in 82.00 mm size and Norwood has 81.36 mm size or custom size. I'm choosing the Norwoods 81.36 I think, will email them first. So what we agreed upon was crank checking, measuring, magnafluxing (I almost wrote magnaflowing) and polishing, bore and hone the liners to the required size for the forged pistons I will supply, reem small end bushes to the proper size for the new pistonpins (the Norwoods have an oversized pin) and remove exhaust valve guides and install the new ones, about 650 Euro total, flywheel machining was 35 Euro if I decide that, depends of what clutch I will get. Still interested in the Norwood one, found a company over here but Norwoods has a product that is proven for the 308 and his price is sharp (because it is in $$$ hehe). So I'll inquire with Norwoods, await the call from the engine guy tomorow if he has found exhaust valves or not, and then I will place orders with Norwood and Superformance. The engine shop can start the work when the exhaust valves and guides and pistons are there.
I'm back to 10 hour shifts at my job which is good $ wise but between travel eat and sleep doesn't leave much time to work on the car. Did some cleaning to the engine parts and sprayed some with bright silver paint, it seems to have a metallic effect too much bling but once back in the car it'll be more in the dark so probably allright.
Ordered the JE 8.8 81.35 mm pistons from Norwoods, there is a 4 week wait because they are build on order also ordered their kevlar clutch. Couldn't find a local source and my plate and pressure plate is probably 28 years old, Norwood does normally exchange these clutches but he will sent me the parts without exchange but I will have to do the flywheel surfacing locally, no problem. James Patterson at Norwoods was very helpful and takes time to answer emails. I asked about thier copper headgaskets and decided install and potential problems were to much a risk for me, so I will get regular Elring headgaskets. The pistons are listed 1680 at the Norwood site but that is without the slightly larger pins that are needed, that makes 1860, 2570 with clutch ouch.
I will bring the crank and flywheel to the engine shop today so they can check the crank and I know if I need the standard size bearings or oversize (probably not) and I can order the rest of the parts (another $2500, another ouch).
Also received the Ford explorer 5.0 throttle bodies (65mm each). There is a guy on ebay selling these blasted and powder coated. These seemed to be the most simple basic TBs I could find without brand specific extra casting that needs to be cut off, I can just mount them on a plate and connect inlet air with a 80mm hose coupler. Looked at the IAC things, powered them but nothing happens though the motor wants to turn, decided them to much trouble will probably stick with the Kjet bimetal extra air valve or sort it out later. Each throttle valve had a hole for idle air, I soldered one of them shut. I'm thinking a staged (if that is the proper word) setup were the first valve starts to open, then with the first 1/2 open the other one starts to open at twice the rate, so they'll both be fully opened same time. Put the TBs on my scanner to make a mounting plate template.
Scanned the dial from my boost-o-meter and reversed black-white and printed it on a stickersheet -> cool. Not so cool I dropped and broke the glass but I think I saw a similar one in some waste corner at my job. Breaking glass...I removed the rear window from the car without a problem and later decided that the savest place to keep it was in it's original position...NOT. When trimming the new rear lid I touched the glass with a file slightly and pats. Will see if I can find another one cheap or else make one from lexan.
Prepared some parts for selling, they are on the German ebay from this evening (feel free to bid US citizans!):
Fuel distributer, fuel lines, digiplex boxes and warm up regulater. Don't try to read my german (even germans will have a problem) I just say that all the parts are ok and working before removal, 1980 US GTSi.
If I can sell the stuff, eat only rice bought in large bags and drink water for 6 months, I can plan a brake upgrade. Saw some Porsche 996 calipers for 550 Euro with only 15000 km, discs and universal hats can be had from Wilwood, handbrake calipers from some Pantera site, estimated total cost 2000 Euro. Also there is a Wilwood 4 pot caliper now with handbrake function only 120 GBP ex VAT that looks perfect for the 308 rear, though the handbrake mechanism looks a bit flimsy and the notch taken out of the caliper wall weakens the caliper I think. Future project.
Actually were I put the Ferrari script it said "Made in Bulgaria", must have been made in a time when they were proud of craftmanship because the inside looks like a well made watch. Today, similar to Dolce Gabbana clothing from Bulgaria, it would probably be a fake "Veglia" or "Jaeger".
Sorry no visitors! I'm a guest there that is barely tolerated (no really) and my parents don't like the Ferrari and the attention it draws. Roel "Dino208GT4" once visited me in is big roaring Mondial and they fear what the neightboorhood will think with all the quarter million cars visiting (though the neightboorhood are the same people for 60 years).
However once the car is ready next year (hmm) I plan to visit some meetings, if there is a Fchat local gathering or other events.
About the brakes, I haven't bought them yet and didn't plan to, however the price is very good so I sent the seller an email if he still has them...I will go get them if he does. My friends always tell me I should get rid of all the old junk and buy 1 decent 911 but I say the only thing good about them are the nice big Brembo brakes. So driving around with Porsche logo on the brakes would prove that point...however Bulgarian writing on the boost gauge is fun, "AMG" on the blower (visible through the louvers) is fun but not "Porsche" on the brakes. I will just put Brembo stickers on them, because that's what they are.
I couldn't resist and bought the Porsche brakes. Of course I immediatly had to test fit them, made a temporary adapter from an angle iron, made alu "fakediscs" for taking sizes. First made a 330 mm disc. I thought that would fit but seemed a little too much, so i went for 310 mm. Later I found out I couldn't really fit bigger discs because of the enormous width of the calipers, with a smaller disc the caliper moves inside were the wheel has more room.
The above pictures were with the 330 mm disc. After I cut the disc to 310, that looked better, the caliper will sit closer to the original mount which is good for strength and the 310 discs will be more than enough. I have smaller wheels than the Porsche 996 turbo so the rotational speed of the disc through the caliper will be about the same, well, it would be if I could get my car to 300 km/h. After careful measuring I was ready to order discs and adapter. The Porsche has 330x34 and 330x28 discs, I ordered 310x35 and 310x32 from wilwood through summitracing. The hats I'm ordering in the UK, they are universal with a 50 mm center hole and undrilled pattern, available in 10 mm steps 0 to 50 mm offset, I will have the 30 mm offset were I need a 5 mm spacer between disc and hub in front and the 13 mm face width needs to be machined 5 mm down for the rear. Also the center hole needs to be enlarged to 58 and 67 mm and the bolt pattern drilled, a guy at my job will do that for me. I found this document very helpful: http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/pdf/des...pot_brakes.pdf
Then I was thinking about the handbrake. I have some worn Alfasud front calipers with build in handbrake (yes) they are the same ATE as the Ferrari rear only handbrake lever different position. I split them but I soon saw it wasn't going to work, to heavy, not a supple mechanism. Then I remembered my Lancia Montecarlo has nice aluminium lightweight sliding calipers with a good handbrake (for discs). If you remove all the sliding stuff a nice solid and light piece remains. These are Fiat calipers as used in sporting versions of the 124 and larger saloons, very rare today. But when I did a search for Fiat calipers I found similar ones are still used today and I bought a used pair from a Coupe Fiat Turbo, they look like alu but not sure. I have some ideas on how to adapt them but I have to have them in my hands first. I did drill and tap the front side mounting ears on the rear uprights and decided I am going to put the main brakes in front of the wheel and the handbrake behind.
I bought my first Sud when I was 18, a 1.5 3 door, after a 1.5 Sprint QV and now I have since 12 years a 1.5QO with the ultimate Alfa boxer, the 4 cam 16 valve, retrofitted with a pair of Dell'orto carbs. Nobody expects 1/3 Testarossa engine in a small family saloon.
Yes, I replaced many front calipers during the years and I make sure I always have a spare pair of them. But... the rear 308 brake is a different casting but the same internals, handbrake mechanism and pistons as the Sud, from ATE. That they are mounted in the wheel makes service easier of course, when the Sud was current, mechanics at the dealer did neglect the front brakes due to their mounting position. BTW, I once read your story about racing Suds on the Alfa BB.
I got the crank and flywheel back from the engine shop. Crank was perfectly good and within spec for standard bearings. Only on the ends were the seals ride is a groove that they couldn't polish out but he suggested I shimm the new seals in the front/rear cover so they ride on a different spot.
Spent a whole afternoon grinding on one of the Fiat rear calipers, removed 1/2 from the casting so now only the handbrake mechanism remains. I'm not entirely happy with the result but I guess it will work eventually after some more tweaking.
More cleaning on the block and covers. The engine will be a (too) bright silver so I'm a bit hesitant to post pictures yet (didn't take any) if it looks like a spray can engine rebuild I will choose a darker color before assembling. But whoever said hammerite is only good for garden fences is a snob
Now I'm waiting for parts.
Ordered 16 valve guides, seals and conrod nuts from dinoparts.de , their guides are 1/2 the price from superformance and made from BMW spec material, cool, I had Audi, Mercedes and VW already in my car but not BMW.
The JE pistons and kevlar clutch come from Norwood but they are made to order so that will take another 2-3 weeks.
Universal brake rotor hats and some brake line and fittings come from http://www.rallydesign.co.uk
Brake rotors and the prothane motormounts come from Summitracing USA but the rotors are on back order for 2 weeks.
And all the gaskets, seals, bearings etc come from Superformance.
Some parts arrived, from Superformance and rally-design. SF sent the wrong main bearings though, I ordered standard size but got 010 oversize, have to sent those back. The universal brake hats are nice well made pieces and they will work. I will have the center holes enlarged and when the rotors arrive there is some fine tuning to do in fitment, the front will need a 5mm spacer total between wheel and hat or between hat and hub, while the rear hat needs to be shaved down 5mm, also inside or outside, but in such a way that the brake caliper will be a nice fit tight against the spokes of the wheel, I like that look.
Was not in the mood to do much, but I fitted the new starter solenoid I got today. From the old one all the connectors broke of when removing and SF has new ones for not to much so instead of attempting a third world style repare I ordered the new one. Also ordered a bush set for the rotor but fitting was to troublesome, the old ones were still good and my soldering iron couldn't melt them loose so I didn't want to disturb a good thing.
Now that my new exhaust valves were there, I decided to test the strength of an old one. First I threw it against the concrete (outside) a couple of times as hard as I could but it didn't break. Then I laid it on the concrete and threw a big rock at it, as I'm no sportsman I missed a couple of times but finally managed to break the valvestem. Not at the weld joint but higher up. Saw that they were indeed hollow with powder in it. Threw them in some water from save distance and it started to bubble. When all bubbling was done I decided togrind open the remaining piece...after a while it started to burn hehe, looked great but was to late with the camera. Final picture: that valve looks great to me, no corrosion, weld barely detectable, had been probably good for years without a problem. Myth busted? You can't draw conclusions from one valve from one car
I will restart work on the motor once all parts are here, that is more efficient than doing small things 1 at a time. I did receive Verell's square shift shaft seals, they will go in this week. In the meanwhile I did some filling and handsanding the front fenders and rear spoiler, pictures won't show any noticable progress but at the moment I can't lift my own arms anymore, was time I got some workout it had been a while.
amongst other things, I reamed the valve guides with the 8 mm reamer I got. Seemed like a real tight interference fit because the portruding ends were fine but I removed quite some material were they are held in the head. Then I started lapping the valves in with valve grind paste and discovered 1 inlet valve was seriously bend, unbelieveable. No marks on the valve, no marks on any piston (I threw them all in a box without marking were they came from) but the valve seat showed that this bend valve was there before disassembling. I took the head to the engine builder and he pointed out that the valve guide was not centered. This was the new guide I installed but I'm sure I didn't mess up, no alu or valve guide shavings, it just went in there and I know for sure the old guide was just like this. Upon further investigation 2 more seats are suspect, showing signs of running with a misaligned guide. I have no reason to think this motor was ever opened up before, certainly not in the 11 years I have had it and it ran fine (this means it can only get better after repair...). I don't know, I left the head there and tomorrow I will bring the other head and just let them do what needs to be done, maybe new offcenter seats have to be installed or re cutting the seats will do. No pics because my good old "dark angel" (because it can take clear pictures in the dark with 30 seconds+ shutter time) 2001 Sony 707 finally died, covered in filler, dust, blue, red and grey paint.
I understand now, but the one seat from the bend valve was really battered offcenter. Bend valve, misaligned guide, don't know what is the cause and what is the result. Anyway, I brought the other head today and all the valves. The old guy I dealt with today and yesterday was the dad of the current owner and assured me they would make everything allright, as he had been building engines since 1957. I suggested removing the severely misaligned guide and rebore the ground bore in the proper direction to fit an oversize guide but he told me it was far easier and safer to just install a new seat. His shop was the only in the country that could make it's own seats, if necessary. I told him to do what needs to be done and just make it good so I won't have to worry the next decades.
The parts from Summit arrived, brake discs are heavy $300 shipping costs.
Assembled the front brakediscs to adapters, the rear adapters are at the machine shop, 5 mm has to be removed from the inside face. The friction part of the discs is narrower than the Porsche brake pads, so I trimmed those down a bit, what you call a dirty job cost me probably 2-3 years of healthy life expectancy despite duskmask.
The prothane bullit Mustang motor mounts (search "prothane") have a slightly larger bolt spacing. Instead of enlarging the holes I welded the holes in the steel "feet" closed and added some extra metal, then drilled them to the correct size. Then one pair of the new mounts need 6 mm spacers, used Alfasud belt tensioner spacers, the other pair needed to be trimmed down 11 mm, did that with a Protrak XP2000 I mean a grinder and band sander. I also enlarged the mounting holes and tapped them to M12 to use the original bolts for frame mounting.
The stronger valve springs were just delivered. A perfect fit, but...the windings are the other way round, that's not good is it? I suppose the inner and outer spring should have a different wind orientation to eliminate a rotating force on the retainers?
New spring on the left:
The JE pistons, total seal piston rings and kevlar lined clutch from Norwood arrived, so all the major parts are here. Good thing because I'm out of cash, this box was $3600 including shipping and dutch VAT and customs. The part do look nice, I will take the pistons and liners to the engine shop next week.
I got my heads back past week, I was a bit too worried about everything but they just grinded all the seats and most of the used inlet valves (not the new outlet valves) and there wasn't any problem, even not with the seat from the bent inlet valve. The guy said all valves seal now, I asked should I lightly lap them with fine grind paste and he said that would even be better so I did. I started installing the valves, happily installed the valve stem seals in the first head then I noticed you have to put in the bottom spring retainers first, oh well, order 8 new seals...(and a replacement for the one bent inlet valve, already received it from superformance). I wanted to use the new stronger valve springs I bought for the inlet valves, but they have a kind of press fit on the bottom retainer that is easily done by hand, in my hands, but not while the bottom retainers are in the head and trying to push the spring on, I didn't bother to experiment any further and just shimmed the bottom retainers of the inlet valves for some extra seat pressure. The grinding of the valves and seats had reduced the cam to bucket clearance (before adjusting) to zero (0.20 mm less) so also the installed spring length is 0.20 mm longer and I felt comfortable using 0.015"+0.030" shims. The outlet valve clearance was enlarged to about 1 mm before adjustment, but it turned out the new outlet valves from superformance are shorter above the retainers, that explained it, need shims up to 4.80 mm now, the maximum size available.
Yesterday I also got my liners back, bored and honed for the new pistons, and the small ends in the rods enlarged for the oversize pins that came with the JE pistons. Also the rear brake disc adapters needed to be turned down 5mm on the inside face, had them do that as the guy from my job who did enlarge the center holes said the runout on his lathe was not good enough for that, don't want wobbling wheels. So now I have everything complete to build up the engine and brakes in the next weeks or months, should be fun to assemble all new nice parts together. I asked the guy from the engine overhaul shop if I should assemble with engine oil or something dedicated, as the motor will be sitting for probably 6+ months after assembling before attempting to run it and he said, just lots of oil and after assembling turn it by hand once in a while. I'm also thinking what to do, the safest place to store the engine will be in the car but it will get dirty from doing bodywork (sanding dust) and I don't think I can wrap it up in plastic good enough, I'll see about that later.
Well, my thread had disappeared from the first 7 pages, time for a little update. I have the engine back together, valves adjusted belts installed. All new valve shims, seems simple measure clearance and order shims but it took me 3 orders from Superformance before I got it exactly right.
I had the worn splines on my clutch shaft and gear. Was looking for a replacement for reasonable money but found nothing except some on the German ebay shaft 650 euro 3 gears 850 euro, no such cash available. Then I got the tip from Chris the Pizzaman that there was a complete bellhousing on the USA Ebay Motors, I placed a small bid but it went for $1000 to a guy in Switserland. I emailed the winning bidder if he needed all or if I could have the shaft and gear, and several weeks later he replied that I could have those. I just sold my Digiplex boxes to Canada and the proceeds were exactly what the shaft and gear costs, the power of internet. In the meanwhile I had welded my gear to the shaft but even I was not comfortable with that, now I have installed the good parts.
Well, I change my mind and did order the baffle from Gerry after re-reading the thread about it.
I have 2 weeks "holiday" (my plant closes due to slow demand) around christmas/new year hope it's not freezing cold then I continue to work on the front suspension and final install of the brakes. Don't know what to do with the engine, install or leave out. Have to make a SC drive pulley and finalize the intake for EFI that will go better with engine out.
I have updated my homepage www.ferrari288.com not that there is anything there about this conversion that is not in this thread.
No updates, I haven't done anything the past month due to freezing cold weather and other obligations. I'll continue in a few weeks with an average of 1 day a week working on the car. Looks like my job closes for 6 weeks in the summer, not so nice for the investors who bought the company 2 years ago but as long as I can keep my job I have no problem, should be able to finish the car then.
Last update was december 2008, I took a long break but have some time now (April 2009). I did some things in the meanwhile. The rear side windows are bothering me, I think I will make plexi windows with aluframes that will be bonded in with a polymer or urethane kit, more flush with the body. The inner glass window will be left out and the window surround smoothed. Then a small door for the fuel filler cap. Another future project.
Work continued on the brakes install. Made the definitive brackets out of 6 mm thick 40x40 mm angle steel. The holes for the caliper are threaded but there will be counter nuts also. It takes extreme precision to fabricate these as I didn't want to use shimms later to properly align the caliper in the 2 dimensions.
Seen here with temporary suspension arms. The calliper sits very close to the spokes of the rim and that was what I was aiming for. I think 16 inch wheels would still fit depending on the spoke design or I could have used 330 mm discs instead of 310 mm. These discs are large enough though and already quite heavy. Also the calliper adapter is shorter and stiffer this way and it shows more brake calliper on the outside, good looks is also important! I need to get shorter bolts for the adapters.
I was thinking alot about what to do with the front suspension. I wanted to get rid of spacers and not use extreme wide wheels. I thought about making subframes that bolt to the existing suspension pick up points where then the original suspension A-arms could be bolted to but rejected that as a poor looking solution and it also would introduce bumpsteer. I decided on longer A-arms but then the leverage of the spring/damper would be longer resulting in softer suspension and a too low front. I made an extender for the upper shock mount that bolts to the original mount and moves out the shock 60 mm. It fitted but looked awful.
I rejected the previous solution and started thinking about buying longer aftermarket adjustable shocks with adjustable spring seats, the QA-1 from the USA seems to be very popular among 308 owners though there are many more to choose from. But I already have new original shocks and the uprated springs from Superformance. I started doing calculations and found then that an increase in A-arm length of 55 mm only had a 6% negative effect on leverage or springrate. That is OK as my new Superformance springs are supposed to be 25% stiffer than standard. I only had to find out if the shock was long enough and that too was OK, wheel can move out 50 mm from my desired ride height before the shock is fully extended.
This means I can use the original Koni dampers and the uprated Superformance springs. However, I did swap the front and rear springs. The springs are similar front and rear but the rears have 1 extra wind making them a bit softer. The rear of the car was too high with the new rear springs but perfect with the shorter front springs so I fitted the front springs in the rear. Because of the longer lower front A-arms I needed a longer spring, perfect, the longer rear springs fitted though I needed to make extra 10 mm spacers for under the springs to get the proper ride height. The front is now softer sprung compared to the rear but this is good. Because I now have a longer wheelbase there is more weight transferred to the front and softer springs prevent extra understeer. Only when all is ready and driving the car I can tell if all is well and when the budget permits I might buy aftermarket shocks and springs after all.
I had started building new A-arms but these were intended to be used with the upper shock mount extender that I later rejected. Also I didn't like the welded angles in the upper A-arm, the welds might break after a while of alternating loads (metal fatigue) so I didn't use these, only for measuring puposes.
Checking spring rate. Not very accurate, spring is 3 kg, 5 mm travel for 22.6 kg weight is 45 kg/cm or 250 lb/inch. Original front spring is about 180 lb/inch, good.
Building the final A-arms, more similar to the original design made with U shaped steel. I still want to strengten the bends for safety, the bending and welding has weakened the material.
It took me 6 hours for every A-arm I build it is all about measuring and measuring again. I wanted the sidewall of the tires to stick out 5 mm from the fender for the best look (the thread pattern is then well within the fender), and also give the wheels negative camber that they originally don't have without using a lot of shims that means the lower arms are lenghtened more than the upper. The camber is perfect now (2 degrees negative) with the shims that were there originally, without the ones I added over 10 years ago 1 week after buying the car. Only need to check castor angle, the same shimms should go back in the same spot but so much has happened it could need flipping shims. It should be so much in spec though that moving 1 upper and/or 1 lower from front to back should do it.
Build rear brake adapter brackets. The rear hubs are the same aluminium casting left and right and they have mounting ears for brake calipers in front and in rear of the wheel but only the rears are machined flat and provided with fine thread M12 helicoils. I checked the front side of the hubs for flatness with a flat file and it was flat after a few strokes. I don't have the stuff to install helicoils, so to make strong mounts I drilled and tapped M12 coarse thread and put in high grade allen bolts with locktite and that makes them studs for the caliper brackets. I got a question about the strength of the angle steel brackets. They are very strong because they are not flat steel that is bend or welded, they are extruded this way and very stiff. Welding in triangles would make them even stiffer but I don't think it is needed.
Red calipers on a red car is like to much lipstick ...
Metallic charcoal grey ("Volvo 214") base paint + clear, then the Brembo decals, then another coat of clear. Looks great, understated and not too obvious but because they sit almost against the wheel spokes they do get noticed. Stupid me put the brakelines on the wrong side of the front calipers. I didn't want to use the painted over original lines so I made new ones and they got a layer of clearcoat.
Question: How can the car be so low without engine?
I jacked up the rear left to check front wheel clearance, the tire tucks in nicely inside the fender without rubbing. (pics not in chronological order obviously)
The steering rack track rods need to be longer with the new suspension. With the quick steering rack from Superformance I received new track rod ends and I sawed off the threaded part from the old ones. The thread is not metric and I had to source suitable threaded rods that are made of tough steel, I found bolts on USA ebay forgot what they are for but they are long enough and made from strong steel, 9 dollars per bolt and shipping, almost 40 dollars for the 2 bolts, at least I have what I need without travelling every store in my country. Also ordered fine thread nuts. The pictures tell how I made the track rods longer. The threaded part from the bolt and the track rod are both screwed halfway in the sawed of portion of the track rod end and secured by the counter nuts. I found a site were some kit car builder lengthened track rods by cutting and welding, my instinct for survival let me to the solution I choose and the guy who does the yearly government safety checks for my cars said it was OK and there is no rule against what I did.
Made side panels for the trunk from 2 mm alu, they will be covered properly with black vinyl with foam underneath. The left one will get a pocket for the megasquirt. These panels go in between the tail lights, the outer trunk parts are wet sections, the wheels are shielded more or less but there will be the side vents and bottom vents that are open to the elements. So the covers need to be able to be removed regularly for cleaning and checks for rust.
The new Brembo brake calipers have a total piston area that is 31% bigger than standard. This would mean a longer pedal travel when using the original master cylinder. I found on the web that the Ferrari 308 master brake cylinder (mbc) has 22 mm pistons and that there are versions that have 23 and 25.4 mm pistons.
I did a long search before I finally found a suitable mbc, most Bendix compatible mbc have a 2 hole flange, not the rare 4 hole. However I found a suitable replacement mbc from a Fiat Ducato / Iveco Daily (large van or small delivery truck) and I ordered one for only 50 euro.
It is slightly longer and has an extra hole that is plugged but it is a perfect fit, the fluid reservoir fits and the seal to the vacuum booster is also the same. It bolted right in. I haven't connected the braking system yet so I can't tell if it actually works but I see no reason why it shouldn't so far. After that I dismantled my original mbc and found that it was 23 mm not 22 and in perfect order after 29 years. The new mbc 25.4 mm has 22% more piston area and that should do the job.
I found the brake discs to be very heavy, and decided to drill them. Drilling is not advised for track cars or heavily used brakes because there can form stress cracks around the holes, but I thought the brakes for my car and use are a bit overkill so I could make them lighter (and cooler looking) by drilling. Made patterns on my computer and choose this one.
Maybe I should have chosen a pattern with fewer holes... The discs are about 700 grams lighter now, substantial. Don't get fooled by the pattern, the inner vanes are in the other direction as the hole pattern suggests, so the disc is still strong, I hope.
Still need a handbrake. I considered many options, like building one myself from a regular caliper that I would strip and lighten. I tried that but that led to nowhere, ugly, heavy and not dependable. I considered the Brembo handbrake calipers that the Ferrari 360 uses (among others) they are >1000 Euro from Ferrari but can be found cheaper for 300 from independ Brembo distributers and some kit car builders. Here is how they look, and fitted to a 308 rear hub like a fellow enthusiast did.
These are substantial calipers, as big as the main calipers from many "ordinary" cars, floating, selfadjusting and probably maintanance free. However they seem quite big and heavy and I couldn't easily find a pair for a good price. Then I found these and I ordered a pair, haven't received them yet. They seem light and easy to mount and low profile. They are not floating so the mounting adapter should be a little flexible to allow the outer brake pad to get to the disc without dragging when the handbrake is not engaged. Handbrake pads shouldn't wear but if they do the inner screw is for adjustment I think. Also need something to guide the action of the handbrake cables in the proper direction.
Finsishing the build of the body. Rear under vents, I was planning to make them like a GTO with 6 large openings from 2 mm alu sheet but it was no succes, the alu warped and I stupidly misdrilled a hole. So I opted for a simple solution, the original 308 vents are to big now because I have a shorter rear overhang but the home improvement store had a suitable thing. Everything will be black and only visible when laying on the floor so it doesn't matter much. The screws will be sunken in and the alu trimmed to be 3 mm within the body.
Not my favourate part, working in the wheels wells. Some Honda or whatever forum found my site and critisized my welding, they are absolutely right.
Need to get new rubber seals for around all the alu coverplates, probably will rob some trunk seals from the local wrecking yard.
This update was over a few months, but I continue work on the car.
I have on order 60 mm springs 250/12 for the rear and 300/10 for the front that I will use with the original shocks. The schocks are strong enough because I have adjusted them tighter and after pushing the rear or front down it raises only slowly, overdampened so stiffer springs are possible. These springs will not work with standard suspension because the car will sit to high, I have longer distance front shocks mountings and in the rear I will need to move my new upper shock mount higher. With standard suspension shorter AND stiffer springs are not possible, they will come loose and the retaining half-rings will fall out during a "Dukes of Hazzard" jump.
Also I need to prepare the engine and busy with making a pulley adapter for the SC.
Mark E and (if he is reading) Will de Groot, can you tell me what drive ratio you had/have? I decided earlier on 2:1, 7000 engine rpm = 14000 SC rpm.
I have a 2300 or 2400 cc SC and am aiming for 1 bar/14.7 psi over. Maybe I should start conservative with a smaller drive pulley.
Also I can't find a proper 8 grooved pulley but it seems no one has problems with a 6 grooved belt?
The handbrake calipers arrived. They were supposed to be big enough to accept 32 mm brakediscs, well they were 32 mm wide without brakepads, with the pads only a 28 mm disc fits, so I made spacers from a 4 mm steel plate.
Rest of the install was straightforward. There was a 13 mm thick spacer in the caliper that also provided radial mounting holes, but I removed it. The mounting bracket I made is simply a 3 mm thick steel plate, drilled in the right places and trimmed to size. It mounts were the 13 mm spacer was, together with a stack of washers that positions the caliper in the right position, the outer pad close to the disc. I went to the local hardware store and got 3mm steel cable and the guide wheels. The cable will go from left to right like original and through the original guides so the rest of the handbrake system doesn't need to be changed. Works very well, very solid, great clamping force, confidence inspiring. Another problem solved.
I leave the caliper blank aluminium, you have to really look to notice it, maybe if I paint fake holes on it it is even more camouflaged.
I made new mounting brackets for the handbrake calipers that move the caliper a little higher so the cable runs a little more like original. Also I got cast metal guide wheels instead of the plastic ones. And I found proper shorter bolts...(the original ones don't have enough thread to shorten them)
I found a drive pulley for the supercharger. It is from a 540-740-840 BMW and has 7 grooves, the SC has a pulley with 8 grooves but I couldn't find an 8 groove pulley.
Then I had to design an adapter to mount the pulley to the crank harmonic balancer.
A local machinist made it for me, he changed the design a little to ease manufacturing. I will fit dowel pins at the crank side to prevent slipping.
I thought I might get the BMW idler pulley as well, fair price at 10 Euro.
And ordered a 7 rib belt of correct length.
Cut out the original rear quarter window surround and made a new one that brings the window out a bit. I can use the original glass window though the shape is now not entirely correct.
Not really happy with the result, I think I will glue the glass in and make a new aluminium surround instead of the rubber.
I did research what injectors I would need and found Bosch red top nr 0280150431 would be OK, they flow 350 cc/min at 3 bar and are used on Saabs Turbo 2.0 and 2.3 were they are good for 200+ HP in the 4 cilinder. I got 2 sets of 4 removed from Saabs.
Bought from Ebay a new little ultrasonic cleaner for only 5 euro (6 euro for shipping) and cleaned the injectors.
Testing the injectors. I used an easy bleed brake bleeder kit for this. The bottle is filled with fuel and pressurized through the valve of an inflated tire. Works great but one injector wasn't spraying and shutting off properly so I ordered 2 more from a specialized Saab wrecking place.
The carb cleaner I used in the ultrasonic cleaner wasn't to kind for the black paint on the injectors (and the plastic lid from the cleaner). Got new caps, filters and O-rings.
I ordered new 60 mm springs because I found the Superformance set (though stiffer than original) still a bit to soft, the Koni shocks can handle much more. These are 12 inch 250 rated rear and 10 inch 300 rated front.
I converted the spring platforms on the shock and made the front ones height adjustable by using M20 nuts and threaded rod. I won't adjust them by threading in or out though, but my making a rod of the correct length that is fully engaged in the nuts.
I still found the rear springs to soft because when the car is pushed down it raises back only slowly, very scientific. So I ordered 350 rated springs and these are already installed and now when pushed down the car raises back quicly to original height but not passing the original height and swing back.
There are cheap sets of height adjustable coil over shocks like QA-1 but I have more confidence in the Konis. A good set of shocks will cost more than 2000, maybe in a year or 2 when my finances are recovered. By the way, Koni fired 320 of it's 480 employees recently, get those original shocks while you can!
Completed the front A-arms. I thought I was clever and wanted to mount the bushes while the arm was still warm from welding, mistake, it was to hot smell of burning rubber. Waiting for 2 more bushes now so I can finally mount the suspension definitive. Also all the bushes still need the spotweld to fix them in place.
I changed my mind again, like many times during this project. I decided to remove the brake pressure difference warning device and route the lines straight from master to caliper, the master cilinder I have now has 3 outlets were the original has only 2. The pressure difference device is not a pressure limiter/brake bias valve for the rear brakes, this car didn't have a brake bias valve installed. The 308GT4 should have one according to the workshop manual. Now with the bigger brakes I have I thought it would be wise to install one and I ordered one from www.compbrake.co.uk . I checked how the valve was build up and thought the lower port would be the inlet. I was wrong though and in the picture it is connected the wrong way. The knob can be reached through the battery cover.
I used the original brakeline that goes from front to back and made all the others new from cunnifer (copper/nickel) but felt a little unconfident. The original steel line I had to straighten in some places and bent in others and you can bent them only like 5 times before they break and it is 30 years old. And though cunnifer is good, steel is better but to tough to make flares with the simple tool I have. Then I found a german ebay seller that sells ready made steel lines in a lot of lengths and I ordered all the lines I need, 14, that includes the 4 lines on each caliper that connect the caliper halves and the 4 short lines from flex line to caliper. When they arrive I can finally fill and bleed the brake system. I ordered a new vacuum servo hose from superformance but unfortunately they don't sell these anymore.
With the new vents in the front hood there would be water leaks to the battery so I made a new aluminium front trunk tray. This gives also more room for airflow at the back of the radiator
But changed my mind again, I want to be able to carry a spare wheel sometime maybe for a long trip so I just converted the original tray. For a spare to insert the alu part needs to be unbolted though.
I am planning the side air inlets on the car to bring air to the intercoolers so the original oilcooler would be sitting there without much air flowing to it. I bought an aftermarket oil cooler with the intention to mount it to the rear of the car behind the exhaust cans, there is room now with the 2 smaller cans on top of each other.
Whenever I have some spare time I am straightening the body, a lot of hard work sanding by hand. The black is guide paint.
I have some holidays soon and hope to have the car painted by week 34. The engine back in, rewiring and trying to get this thing to run.
I have some items for sale:
Bosch fuel distributer, warm up regulator.
A set of 8 new unused Bosch injectors 0-280-150-991 rated 250 cc/min they are good for over 300 HP (Pizzaman? hehe) $125.
A set of 8 Bosch Kjet injectors the new messing design only driven 3000 KM and ultrasonic cleaned, $100.
Superformance uprated 25% stiffer springs, they were mounted and removed but not driven, the coating is damaged here and there, $250.
4 engine mounts, 3 are hard, 1 is softer, $40 a piece for the good ones the other is free is you buy 3 good ones.
I first brought out the window even more and was trying an aluminium surround 20 mm wide 2 mm thick, but that didn't look right, 2 mm is too thin. I will leave out the rubber mount and make a 10 mm thick surround (black of course) and louvres over the fuel filler like a GTB. The GTO vent is too complicated to make with difficult cutting and welding in a rust prone area and I don't want to move the fuel filler because of all the extra work. It will look ok eventually.
I had the same doubts before I started and wanted to bring out the upper shock mount but then did the calculations and the difference is only 6%, originally 10 mm wheel movement is 5.6 mm shock movement, with the longer arms it is 5.3 mm. And I have a 300 rated spring now, original was about 200. The shock I have adjusted stiffer almost to the max and dampens the spring perfectly. There is no extra load or wear on the shock as the force on the shock is only a straigt line from upper to lower mount, it is not a McPherson strut were there is side load on the shock.
Yes, I installed all the new steel brakelines and then filled and bled the brake system. At first that didn't go to well, the front were done in 20 seconds with the easy bleeder but no fluid went to the rears until I totally turned anti-clockwise the knob on the brake bias valve, that is releasing the spring that is inside. Only then fluid went to the rear and I could totally blead the system. But if I turn the knob on the bias valve all the way clockwise, that should give maximum rear bias, it barely brakes. I spin a rear wheel (jacked up) and have to put large pressure on the pedal and then it barely slows down. With the knob released there is more pressure to the rear, that is not the way it should be. I did connect the bias valve the proper way. Will see about that later when testdriving when the booster works.
I started to make the indents for the shilelds in the front fenders and the rear vents behind the rear wheels. Where metal working skills end filler does the rest. I'm thinking of putting the airfilters behind those vents and use the side air scoops only for the intercoolers. I realise the vents are facing the wrong way for that but air can also be drawn in through the vents in the bottom and the vents below the rear bumper.
Coming weeks I'll be doing further smoothing the body but it is hard to show progress in pictures.
Ok ok! Out came the angled grinder today again. It is a perfect spot for letting in enough cool air, will mount cone airfilters behind them left and right. Replacing the fuel filler will be an interesting problem though, where it is on a GTO is a bit low and will need sharp bents to go to the tank. The lower air inlets will go straight to and only to the intercoolers, will have to make alu ducting or something.
Another idea I have is to reinforce the fiberglass roof panel with 2 steel bars from front to back and a cross like this: lXl and reinforce the front and rear mounting points on the car so that the roof can be bolted on with a large allen bolt on each corner. Will take a bit longer to remove and install the panel but the car will be much stiffer with the panel on.
Who said Enzo is turning in his grave? (OK, nobody on this site)
When finished, it will look like it has always been this way...
The original rubber seal fits in the round hole for the fuell filler neck. Already modified the fuel filler to reach the tank. Need to rob some japanese car from it's hardware for the fuel filler door, a hinge and a remote cable operated lock. The lever for the cable will be in the door post where the trunk lever is, it's only 50 cm distance.
Just back from the hospital, somehow with all the difficult grinding and welding in tight spots a metal particle got stuck in my eye. Not the first time, though I managed to stay clean for a few years.
Thanks all, the eye is better now still a bit red and sensitive so no welding this week. You learn to value your health when you are temporary disabled. I'm lucky that while I've had many accidents there is nothing permanent.
I do use goggles most of the time but sometimes you just can't see what you're doing.
I want to keep the possibility to remove the targa roof but I'm thinking of making it bolt on/off, with the bolts connecting steel to steel, window frame/rear top to IxI roof frame.
Air filters. They look very well made at least as good as K&N and they were cheap at 19 euro/piece. The filtering area is 600 cm2 and that is 10% more than the standard filter, and I have 2...excellent for doubling the horsepower!
They are too large to fit behind the air intakes I made behind the side windows, so they will go as originally planned in the side pockets behind the rear wheels, a good use for space otherwise wasted.
Then I can use the new intake for the original oil cooler in it's original spot, that will save some time fabricating and getting oil lines for the new cooler I bought. Nothing is decided yet, the plumbing (and there is a lot) can only be done when the engine is back in.
Progress is slow lately, have been doing the other side window and made larger air inlet openings in the rocker below the door. Also trying to make vents underside behind the rear wheels from polycarbonate (like Lexan, but other brand) that is easier to shape than aluminium, pics will follow.
However I'd like to point you to my ebay auctions for some stuff mentioned here before, fuel distributer, injectors, WUR, pistons, motor mounts and... my genuine black leather Ferrari jacket by Cerruti 1881, I wore it only a couple of times: http://shop.ebay.nl/bert308/m.html
Descriptions are in my best German (which is not very good) because I listed on he German ebay that is much bigger than the Dutch. However there is no surprises in the decriptions, the pics speek for themselves.
Free feel to bid and fund this project, shipping worldwide!
edit: for the motormounts, you bid on 1 piece, but can have up to 3 for the same price, same for the pistons, I have 7 left.
I also will be selling the GTS side window louvres that are GTB modified including locks and 2 keys but I will first have to clean them up a bit and then take pictures.
I will resume work on the 308 with new energy in the beginning of next year. Past months I was busy with other things, and I'm doing some work on my Alfasud, fitted bigger wheels and am adapting the big Brembo brakes from a 166 V6 to the little Sud.
Thanks guys. Yes I like the Sud very much, I had one as my first car and then ever since. This one is my 3rd and holds up remarkably well, stripped it and repaired the rust when I bought it for beer money 13 years ago and did a quick re-re-repaint some years ago and past month I had to replace a rocker (sill) for the first time. It gets driven summer and winter and had a good portion of snow and salt in the past weeks. Sud owners all know each other over here it seems there are less than 100 registered in the Netherlands (much less then Ferrari 308) and it is not very popular as a classic, there are thousands of 105 series Alfas for example, but some people are restoring them or importing surviving examples from Italy.
Just watched the Wil de Groot vid with his supercharged 308:
that is a well sorted car. In may/april my job may go on a 50% rate for 6 weeks and I may have more time then, also in july I will have 3 weeks for the 308.
Wow you signed up over 4 years ago and your first post is in my project thread, I feel honoured!
I made some dumb decisions in the past year, not a good idea to do some work first on another car (the Alfa) as that got out of control and then my only working car broke down, the Lancia Montecarlo something with a valve. So now I´m working hard to finish my Alfa (repaint) and then I will get back to the 308 project. The Lancia returns to hibernation like it did 8 years ago when the engine first broke down, I revived it 3 years ago with a lot of effort but only short pleasure so this time that 2.0 Fiat twin cam won´t be repaired but replaced with an Alfa 3.0 24v V6 haha (to make it a full cousin to Dino 246, Lancia Stratos and one off Alfa Sprint 6c). But not after the 308 is back on the road.
Work on the 308 will restart in a few months.
That screen for the air inlet is a German market only requirement I think. The rear fenders I bought have part of the air channel under the rear windows build to it so I think that will define the inward angle to the rear side windows and everything else will follow from that.
A quick update for everyone, I won a pair of fiber rear fenders copied of an original GTO on ebay for only $699, I was the only bidder. The seller found them in an estate he was liquidating and in that estate were also moulds for many of the other panels, he already sold the moulds but brought me in contact with the company that bought them, and they will make me a complete front clip and the rear panel and spoiler upper and lower. I will only need to fabricate the rear under part myself so this will take the quality of the end result to a much higher level.
This was over 2 months ago and the builder of the parts said it was to cold and they had a snowstorm, in California! But I googled "weather in + the towns name" and it was true, however this was also a while ago and I should sent another mail.
Before I found the parts I had already decided to build a full wheelbase GTO lookalike so around Christmas I had removed all the home made panels already and made new rear A arms to get the 2450 mm wheelbase
I remade the wall between engine compartment and trunk to make room for the engine that I moved 40mm to the back by switching the spacers that the mounts have from the rear mounts to the fronts. This way the angle of the drive shafts is not too large.
And then there were lots of other things, like my Alfasud threw a piston trough the cilinder wall. I think a valve got damaged when the flywheel broke september 2011 and the engine spun to over 8000 rpm, maybe. So I had to find and prepare another motor. I found one that had been lying around for years of unkown origin, that is in there now and it works well but I´m also building an "all new" spare 8v with new oversize pistons, cams and everything. That takes time.
And while building a spare engine for my only driver, I thought it would be nice to have a complete spare car, so I took out the Lancia and took of the head to examine what was wrong with it. It was the headgasket that burned in between two cilinders. It was always running lean and I found the 40 DCNF webers had 35 mm venturis which would be too large for a standard engine so I ordered 32 mm venturis and hope that will cure the lean running.
There are also some small rust repairs on the Lancia and while at it, I got in the mood and found a set of genuine BBS RS 3 piece wheels from a 911 and made them fit on the Lancia hubs, also ordered new outer rim halves to have a set of 8.5x16 and 8x16 for 245/35 and 215/40 tires. Those will not fit well so I´ll be reworking the fender lips, they needed attention anyway. So another in between project before I´ll continue on the 308.
All this delay means I can take the 308 project to a higher quality level and instead of the reworked original Koni suspension I may be ordering Wilbers suspension from Germany, they make a high quality set for the 308 but mine will have to be customized for the longer A arms, which is not a problem for them. http://www.wilbers.de/de/carline.php?page=7
Also my A arms are all home made from mild steel and look a bit crude, more something for an old russian tractor so I also consider to have proper tubular A arms made from moly steel. Maybe I will sent mr Morales a mail about that in the future when all the dimensions are finalized as the fiber panels are fitted
Thanks for remembering guys! By coincidence yesterday I was standing by the car and thinking how to proceed...
The fiber body parts I ordered 2 years ago (see post 297) never arrived. The seller has some history, I know of a guy in Portugal that got parts from him but after a long time. Then I got into contact with a guy in Sweden who never got his parts. I need to sent a final message ordering him to sent me the parts now, or given me my money back, might a well do that this evening. Though I consider the money lost and may start a thread in Silver subscribed asking for advice if there is anything that can be done.
My options are, the guy in Portugal has or is making moulds for all the parts and I could buy from him, or the guy in Sweden might also be a source. Probably more expensive though than the $2800 the guy in CA was asking (I know, to good to be true). There is enough budget by now to do things properly and I will redo some things like proper suspension arms and shocks and a new interior. The problem is time, despite the "crisis" it seems I only work more in stead of less and I only have car time in the weekends but then there is always something else. Past 2 years I also bought a 1975 4 door Alfasud L and a 1976 TI. Also the Lancia is still not finished.
Schedule is: some work on my driver '82 Alfasud, finish the Montecarlo, then the '76 TI, there is NO welding to do on this one, unbelievable, only fresh up of the mechanics and a small amount of paint. I did have build a fast road 1600 boxer with a lot of nice goodies and special Intrax suspension for the TI though.
It will take another year before I can return to the 308. In the meanwhile I bought hard anodized alu cam wheels to replace the slightly damaged plastic ones. The engine is in the car as the safest way to store it. It was not a good idea to put on the cambelts back then, they will be replaced again when I do the camwheels.
Also trough some deal I acquired a few sets of proper and correct Carello GTO lights, I need to resell a set of 2 inner and 2 outer lights (they are a bit different, there is an extra 5w bulb in one pair).
Status so far, the rear was stripped back to bare frame then rebuild with new trunk wall and trunk, front will get the same treatment. I also got the front width wrong and need one more 3 inch outer ring for the Compomotive wheels, I have automated ebay search running for compomotive as I need also 1 extra 17inch TS center to have 2 complete sets of wheels.
When there is an update, it will appear here or I will start a fresh thread.
A quick update...after years of inactivity I finally started work on the car again. New fchatters who never saw this thread, don't bother reading all of it!
I discarded most of the wild plans I had, it's now back to original wheelbase regular 308 shape (but with mods) and a NA engine, probably with 4xDellorto DRLA40 (Weber 40IDF equivalent)... I bought an original steel rear clip from what seems to have been a race car with widened fender lips and will go from there. Not sure if I will start a new thread about it, but I made a facebook project page were I will post updates:
Now please let this thread sink back again to the archives!