AFGMOTO1978 Build Thread
Compliments of afgmoto1978 @ www.rx7club.com
Okay so if figured where I documented my build way back when wasn't where it should be. So here's a rehash of the build with a lot of the fat removed.
This build all started after having a very disappointing engine blow-up (motor three) at the track while running out of gas. lol
So what was going to be a basic build up became a five year and counting constant modification.
Well, the motors out of the car and at Pineapple for a rebuild. Damaged the rotor bearings by starving them for oil and then detonating on top of it when I ran out of gas at PIR. Hopefully that's the only major damage done to the engine. Apex seals a Ianetti's and they look fine.
Starting to strip the car for a proper paint job instead of the Matco Special I have on mine.
Just got my SSR Comp-H wheels (15lbs each) and V710 tires in last week too. (Miss these wheels and those were great tires)
Things to do/get still:
Raceshop four point cage
Delrin Bushing kit (in the mail)
AutoExe under chassis brace and front tower brace (didn't happen, Winter 2012 CF Underbody / Chassis reinforcement in the works, finances willing)
99 Spec plateless front end turn signals, Feed side skirts (In the Mail).
Datalogit for Power FC (In the Mail)
Apexi BOV (Send Check) (Not enough air flow, went with Synapse unit!)
Rebuild Efini's (lol)
Another BOV for Secondary Turbo that I can plum back into the intake track.
Fabricate Custom Y-Pipe
Either fabricate DIY air box or buy HKS Racing suction kit and replace the foams for
K&Ns (By the way foam does jack all for filtering - Apex "Hint Hint")
Custom DIY V-mount - I really don't like what's out there (no ones putting vibration/durability in mind and the end tanks are a joke) and I have access to a full machine shop so why not.
Decide if I want to modify the wiring harness so the battery and all relay/fuses are in the Passenger storage bin, or heat wrap what I have and call it good for now. Majorly time consuming. (Holy Crap I had no idea what a bitch this was going to be)
Modify stock seats, DIY upper to improve lateral support and still fit within cage.
Jesus, this going to be expense and time consuming. "
^So true, lol
Oh ya this gonna cost me $$$$. Spun a bearing and broke a one piece ceramic apex seal.
Enjoy in my pain. Pan'n for gold are ya.
Yaaaa, I wanna go to Hawaii!! Yaaaa
This is still depressing to look at even after 6 years have past.
I'm smiling, but I'm crying inside.
Dude, can I use your shop....
Apex...sure (Damnit, another dead beat in my shop)
Without this guy cartapex aka John Farris letting me use his shop and being patient for 4 years while building my car it would have never happened.
Photos of my car the day I blew the motor.
Well found some front end damage repair work on the right front. Whoever did it wasn't very good. Going to have to buy a replacement piece from Mazda and weld it on.
Soda blasting the chassis next week!! Soda Blaster guy is going to pick up the car Monday.
Got the fender that I won off of ebay; opened the package and I was like...WTF?! That's a green fender.
This picture of the interior shows how cheap my old paint job was.
Fender damage, going to have the body shop check if the chassis is even straight.
Well got more of the car apart, found 7 dolla in change, mostly pennies. Half of them embedded in the sound deadening or cough drop syrup. Found a few grapes and the carpet was wet with what must be 9 year old water. ewww
Even without the motor the 7's got POWA!
What the back of the dash looks like and the HVAC unit, which is pretty simple.
Long *** engine harness that weighs 30 lbs.
And last, the yummy stuff found under the carpet.
Update, got the car back from the soda blaster. He did a pretty good job, missed a few things but all in all a good job. Wish I had acid dipped this car actually
Prep and bondo now
Speaking of bondo, I have some unexpected bondo on the driver side rear corner panel. I knew about the bondo on the passenger door. Remove and clean up for new stuff. Hoping the DR rear panel isn't fawked up too bad. Will find out tomorrow
Bodywork turned out to be a majorly long drawn out ordeal - knowing what I know now I would have paid some one to do it.
Found more bondo on the driver & passenger side under paneling. Did some more paint removal, two more days of this and a frame straightening and it will be ready for new bondo and primer/sealer.
I found out my car has a cocaine problem!
Good news, all my one piece ceramic apex seals are good except for the broken one. So, I only have to buy one replacement and a shyte load of other stuff tonight. Yaaa, I need a second Job, Yaaaa.
N3y2-10-s80 - Housing, Rotor - Rear $529.25 $529.25
1881-11-404 - Seal,oil $1.45 $1.45
N326-11-d03 - Bearing, Pilot $6.00 $6.00
Nf01-11-d54 - Bearing,needle $17.70 $17.70
Nf01-11-d53 - Washer,thrust $5.60 $5.60
N3a1-11-d00 - Shaft $341.40 $341.40
4352-11-363 - Spring, Rear Outer Oil Seal $3.35 $6.70
4352-11-353 - Spring, Oil Seal - Front Outer $3.35 $6.70
1202-11-343 - O-ring, Outer Oil Control $13.00 $52.00
0820-11-341 - O-ring, Inner Oil Seal $6.70 $26.80
Nf01-11-c17 - Spring, Side Seal $4.30 $51.60
4801-10-502 - Bearing, Competition Main $76.40 $76.40
4801-11-111 - Bearing, Competition Rotor $86.05 $172.10
Nf01-11-c24 - Spring,corner Seal $1.85 $22.20
8871-23-180 - Seal Set $54.30 $217.20
N3a1-10-507 - Seal, Front Main Oil $6.35 $6.35
1668-10-556a - Seal,oil $6.60 $6.60
Fd01-56-191a - Protector,pipe $10.35 $10.35
Fd01-43-860e - Insulator,master Vac $52.50 $52.50
B455-32-279 - $5.05 $10.10
P043-27-238 - $4.65 $9.30
P011-25-123 - $2.30 $9.20
1368-25-124 - $1.85 $7.40
E016-50-796 - $1.35 $2.70
G225-51-274b - Lens, License Lamp $4.00 $4.00
G225-51-273 - Gasket $2.05 $2.05
Ea04-51-146a - - $0.95 $0.95
Fd01-50-6g0b - Rr Window Mould $67.45 $67.45
Fd01-50-6ax - Mldg Up, Frt Wndw $44.25 $44.25
Fd01-34-313 - Ball Joint Boot $8.70 $17.40
Fd01-34-213 - Boot, Ball $9.00 $18.00
Fd01-59-821 - W/strip Lt $33.95 $33.95
Fd01-58-821 - W/strip Rt $33.95 $33.95
B455-56-149 - $0.80 $12.80
Fd01-68-601b - Insulator, Hood $109.75 $109.75
Fd01-50-794a - Protector $8.00 $8.00
Ga7b-50-795 - Cap $1.35 $8.10
0118-56-242b - $0.65 $2.60
Fd01-50-640b - Mould Rt, Beltline $78.90 $78.90
Fd01-50-615 - Joint, B/wndw Mould $4.50 $4.50
Ea04-51-146a - - $0.95 $0.95
Fd01-51-674 - Clip $2.45 $2.45
Fd01-50-650d - Mould Lt, Beltline $78.90 $78.90
Fd01-50-619a - Clip $2.00 $2.00
Fd01-69-320c-02 - Sun Visor Lt $59.70 $59.70
Fd01-69-270c-02 - Sun Visor Rt $66.25 $66.25
Hg31-69-220b - $56.10 $56.10
R504-17-470a - Case, Control $51.00 $51.00
Je11-40-355 - $3.40 $13.60
N326-14-151 - Chain $22.80 $22.80
$2,448.00, More to come later.
Pricing for new carpet is $1700 at the dealer, $910 from Mazdacomp. It's so worth it have a membership with them.
More body photos
Alright! The car is finally at the frame straightener and he said the major parts of the chassis is on the money already. Just have to pull down the pressed in section under the driver side door and maybe a few small adjustments here and there.
Lookie lookie what I got in the mail today from Japan....99 Spec taillights!
Also got the paint, went with PPG Tungsten Gray Metallic, same paint color as the Mazda 6. Pretty similar to my bike and a lot easier to color match down the road in the event of an unfortunate fender bender with a tree. Came out to $827.15 for all material needed, got a 40% discount, thanks Industrial Paint Supply!
Okay, Got the car back from the frame straightening and they did a good job. Still need bondo under the driver side door, but not nearly as much. I added a pic of the damaged area for a frame of reference, sorry for the different view angles.
Got my Rotary Extreme sleek headlight kit in Thursday and they look sweet. Mounting for this kit was a total joke, decided to make my own framework.
I also got a free Mazda 323 last Wednesday. Man what a piece, but once I fix the things wrong with it, it will be an good commute/backup car. Thanks Apex for letting me use your Golf, you are truly a friend (notice the background advertising).
Started doing bondo today and will be doing tomorrow. (And the next twelve months) Having a DA saves a lot of time. Notice the amount of mud on the door, not sanded yet, but damn!
Started work on retrofitting the aluminum stiffening brackets from the stock front bumper the urethane 99 bumper. Some interesting details are in the pics. It will be interesting how well it fits up.
Got my motor back from Pineapple!! So pretty, so pretty. Another motor I miss
Got more bondo work done Yesterday. Started applying the skim coat before I left John's shop last night.
Started stripping the sealer in order to stitch weld some key areas. Not going to go all out and do the whole chassis. I know some of you may say "Why not?", but this car is a street car first, race car second. Who am I kidding, I'm an interior removal and eight point cage away from making it into a racecar. When I find a good R1/R2 chassis later down the road I will go all out and make it a race car. Had one, but traded it for another FD (Trying to sell it now)
Started stripping the sealer off the interior cabin yesterday and did some more today. Got 10lbs of dry ice after going to three different Baskin Robins. Put the ice on the sound deadening and chip it off once it got cold enough. What takes weeks to remove conventionally took about an hour and half to do with this method.
I spot welded instead of seam, for the simple fact that the welder John has doesn't give me enough control and power to make a really good weld. So spot welding it is, I will see noticable gains in rigidity, but not nearly as much as if I did 1" stitches. Which may be a good thing since this is a street car primarily.
Stopped welding because I was sweating ***** with the welding gear on in the 90 degree heat today and started fitting up the front bumper. I need to massage some areas which was expected since this is a nok-off. It will look good when it's finished though.
Fitted up the bumper, cleco made the job a lot easier. I still have a low point at the center between the bumper - hood transition, but it's an easy adjustment.
Will be finishing "spot" welding the chassis and bondo throughout the week so I can paint it next weekend.
The glass guy is finally coming down to look at it Monday.
Well, finished spot welding the chassis and put new 3M seam sealer on the interior cabin. I also finished the bondo. Rolled it over to the paint area to start the process of paint. Was able to get the interior painted, but Tyler the painter found out that the definition of Etching primer was lost in translation between PPG and the rest of the paint manufacturers out there. PPG's etching primer is an adhesive promoter and etching primer to other manufacturers is just that etching primer, something you can sand to find the unseen/unfelt low spots in the body. So here's my baby all prep and ready to get her first layer on and the tailor has the wrong fabric. ****!!
This turned out to be totally untrue, but it didn't matter. I used the wrong bondo in the end and had to redo everything. God I hate bodywork.
Well, I'm back where I was when I was about to paint. Did everything right this time around, metal prep, type of bondo, etc.. It look a 1/5 of the time this time around. Hopefully by the end of this month I should have some paint on her. I did some organizing of parts while I was at it. man do I have a lot stuff for this car!
Alright, after looking at it, applying bondo the the rocker panel would be a bad idea considering how many times this car will be jacked up to change tires in the future, so I re-sealed and will be sanding the extra once dry to get a smooth transition. Final sanding of bondo now, paint is getting close.
I attached some pics of parts I got recently from Pineapple. Air pump elimination idler wheel and twin exhaust temp kit. Idler wheel is the ****, egt kit not so much.
Whole lotta sanding
Here's another goody from Pineapple....Intake Air Flow Balancer. From this unit Rob say's you can balance the front/rear intake track air flow, which it isn't in stock config. One piece to the equation why the rear runs leaner than the front. You tune it by using the exhaust temp at the marker. Hence I recently purchased their exhaust temp setup. Interesting concept, never used it.
So last weekend was interesting, had three FDs in the garage getting work done on them.
I finished sanding the first main layer and applied glazing on my car, then worked on Vince H. 94 31K FD.
I dropped the fuel tank today and will be fab'n up an internal swirl tank, that way it's in a protected environment and isn't in the way or visible. "Why no officer that's not a swirl tank in my cabin without any fire safety barrier, it's a water injection tank...ya, water injection tank.....what's that in the corner, my water injection tank, Doh! Never got around to doing this for myself, but did do it to two other tanks for other people, one day I will get around to doing it.
I got my Nardi steering wheel today too, I trying to decide if I want to Mod it and make it a D wheel or just leave as it is.
Spyder dropped off his new TIG welder so I could properly finished welding my front end. I finished spot welding today and started resealing. Need to do the under body now since I burn through the undercoat where ever I welded. The welds weren't all that pretty since I was welding over all the welding done previously with the 110 MIG. I did it to get better penetration into the sheet metal. Sanding, sealing and paint prep tomorrow and the first layer will be put on later this week! Yeeesss, sweeet.
Disclaimer - My welding has improved considerably since then.
Got all the Delrin suspension bushings pressed in except for the trailing link bushings. Trying to decide whether to retain the RE trailing arms I have or put the stock units in. (Put the stock unit in) I had to machine a custom press tool for remove and install some pieces. Good stuff.
I opted to not put zerks on because it would have provided negligible gains in maintenance. I was total wrong, ended up putting them on and glad I did it. I will have to remove all the suspension at least once a year to check wear anyways. Yeah right! Haha Another reason is only two or maybe three piece I could actually do it on; all others would have had clearance issues. Wrong again
It will be interesting to see the pros and cons of this setup both at the track and public roads. Track...Awesome, Public Roads..No so much, my car is vibrating itself apart. Holding a conversion with someone is hard too.
Alright got the Trailing arm bushing pressed in, but still trying to decide on which set to use. I also got some new goodies from Adrenaline Racing Adrenaline Racing | Your online performance parts portal, Tein EDFC version 2.0 and Tein hood dampeners.
While getting the underbody cleanup I noticed that the drive side sway bar mount had a few cracks, unfortunately it can't be fixed with a weld and grind. Total wrong, fixed it later down the road. This was caused by the stock sway bar mount being hit by a large rock a long time ago...man that was a long time ago...anyways I have an upgraded mount that tied into the engine cradle with a cross bar so this crack although not ideal isn't a show stopper.
The more you look at a car the more you find wrong with it.
Finished sealing and painting the under body, cleaned up the suspension frames and installed the front engine cradle in order to attach all frontend plastics to finish the body work, looking good.
Finished stripping Brake caliper and applied the first coat of paint. Waste of time went to a BBK. Also got my Tein Flex's back from being rebuilt and all put back together.
Started the process of putting the motor and tranny together for mockup time. The way things are turning out I going to do mockup before any paint gets layed on the body.
I finally got my carpet that's been on back order for 9 months now. Directly from Japan. Glad I waited, fitment is OEM.
Started fitting up the RE flushmount headlight kit. Some missalignment issues with mounting plates, missing lexan lens and headlight adjuster springs shut me down. Some areas in this design could be improved (and will be), but overall an okay kit. Instead of going with the RE spring bolt adjuster combo, I ordered the specific adjusters for these head lights at: http://www.rallylights.com/hella/90mm_modules.asp. $60+ bucks, but adjustment will be a lot easier and the headlights won't eventually move on you like the bolt spring combo will. After looking at the plates and how they tie into the chassis, I'm going to create my own out of stainless and tie into at least two more points on the chassis to give it more rigidity and durability. I know overkill, but that's me.
Since I'm sooooooo far behind, I plan on spending at least a few hours every day to get things rolling again. LOL
Well this last week was productive at work (60 hours), but thoroughly frustrating working on the car. Broke the wires on a switch on the tranny, broke a stud on the exhaust manifold, broke an easy out in the process of trying to get it out, not having the drill bits need to install my EGT probes, the list goes on.
Anyways, the lesson for today boys and girls is if you ever do something like this, make damn sure you separate and bag all your hardware if you don't you will waste countless hours trying to find that special 10mm nut you need.
Whatever you do don't do what I did with the following egt probe sensor location. EGTs in this location are well beyond 1000C and will burnout your probe in no time.
Alright, got the busted stud out; had to mill out the remnants, I wouldn't recommend breaking one of them.
Also got the EGT probes in place.
Whatever you do don't do what I did with the following egt probe sensor location. EGTs in this location are well beyond 1000C and will burnout your probe in no time.
Got the hub out of the upright finally, had to buy a separator. However, I have yet to get the stubborn half shaft out of the other upright/hub assembly.
**** it! Okay the stubborn half shaft is finally out only after death wheeling the CV hub off (band saw was a futile attempt) and then putting 45 tons of press force with a solid footing. Only then, was able to get it off.
So new bearings and retaining clips are in place, getting new 10mm longer than stock wheel studs today and at least the rear hubs and uprights will be all together and ready to be used today.
Ported the turbo wastegate ports and such. I left 2mm of overlap on the wastegate per Pineapple Rob's recommendations. Checked the turbos and they look okay.
Alright, got the motor, tranny and my Mazdaspeed power plant frame in and ready for all my custom fab work. I got a Koyo Rad and a Greddy RS Recirc BOV for the secondary turbo for bypass duties Thursday. I got this stuff at Speed Concepts off of TV Highway; they can get just about anything you want aftermarket-wise.
I will be reusing my Spearco bar & plate IC I already have for the twins and will upgrade to a larger unit when I go single next year.
I'm also in the process of mod'n the UIM by relocating the brake booster vacuum plug from the rear secondary port location to the -20deg idle control valve mounting location. Granted both front and rear rotors will be affected now, but it will be equally affected, which in theory should aid in getting a closer AFR ratio between the front & rear.
If some of you were wondering the reasoning; Mazda put it there because of it's proximity to a RHD brake booster. That's all great for RHD, but itâ€™s a stupid location for a LHD setup with that long *** air line across the firewall. This setup should clean that up nicely, which will make room for my new strut tower bar I will be making too.
Got the stainless head light plates done and the Hella light mounting holes are just off (1/16â€Â), doh! Anyways I was at least able to start proper mockup. Overall fit up is pretty good, but I need to remake the headlight plates, cut off the unused ear on the high beam lamps to clear the housing, make some custom support plates to properly support the front of the covers for high speeds, remake the existing cover support brackets. Basically everything except the housing and lens! Put some tape on the lens to get an idea of how much I would want painted black.
after getting the sleek headlight kit all properly fitted up with the new headlight bracket I made, the bulbs are finally in full view (the marker lines show how much of the lens was blocked with original setup). However, I didn't like how little material was left on the remained headlight structure so I've been redesigning and fabricating a welded structure that I should be finished fabricating today and have it welded on the chassis tomorrow.
Got the new headlight frame all welded in and it turned out pretty good, nice and solid. I still need to add a gusset to support the bottom of the headlight panel, but other than that, Iâ€™m there. Also started playing around with the turbo ducting and how Iâ€™m going to join the two turbos, the picture will give you an idea of the direction Iâ€™m going. Also I plan on having the bypass valve (Greddy BOV) on the secondary plum back in to the intake serpentine tube.
Alright stopping point more updates tomorrow.
Alright, got the headlight shroud mounting plates done, looks nicer than what came with the kit. Also, I finally got my IC core and proceeded making the end tank for the turbo side and welded it on once I welded and smoothed out the internal seams.
Tomorrow I will modify my Greddy elbow to the configuration I want it to be (wish I could get the HKS elbow (Still do) that comes with their v-mount kit, but oh well). I also started fab'n up the twin turbo connection tubes. Hope to get that done tomorrow too.
Got most of the routing for the twin turbos done, just need to cut a section for the secondary tubing. Currently have it all tack'd up to confirm everything lines up. I also have the intake side IC endtank started, but need to wait for some 3" tubing to finish the routing before I finish it. I started on modifying the greddy elbow too, but didn't like the direction I was going....need to put more thought into that. Man, I tired.
Oh, I also got some Mackin industries 20mm longer than stock wheel studs.
Alright, got the IC and ducting done. The Secondary turbo BOV is in, just need to finish welding in the recirc tubing. The throttle body end tank is a bit frankensteinish, but it will work great. Trying to decide if I want to weld on the Tial BOV on the throttle body end tank or at the cold side end tank of the IC.
I need to get the rad fan I want and I should have all the mounting done by end of week. I still need to do the oil cooler mounting, waiting for some fittings before I go further on that. Making progress.
I'm also trying to decide if I want to mod the hood so it's vented. A lot of work, but it would be functional and bad ass at the same time.......
Okay, so I fabâ€™d up a mount for the Radiator and I didnâ€™t like how it turned out so Iâ€™m redoing it. However, I was able to put rivnuts on the driver side frame rail for the rad mount. FYI, if you ever use these things be sure to do a mockup on another piece with the same thickness to get the crimping settings right. These things are prone to spinning if not installed properly. On that note I added epoxy to the mix to further reduce that risk. If you look at the mockup panel I did you can see three different degrees of crimping, the center on is what you want to look for.
I also started playing around with the mounting location of the Mocal oil thermostat. I was hoping to utilize the stock inlet/outlet lines, but itâ€™s not looking like that will work. I have to go buy more fitting for the twin oil cooler setup.
Tackâ€™d the headlight support tabs too, welding upside down isnâ€™t easy.
Got most of my oil line fittings so I went ahead and started playing around with the setup. Wish I had gone with Setrab oil coolers back then, would have save me a lot of trouble
Today I got the water outlet tank done. I also have most of the oil cooler mounting pieces made, just need to weld everything together.
Finished the oil cooler mounting, need to get the oil thermostat tied in and then the hood vented. Should have gone with Setrab oil cooler from the beginning, would have saved me a lot of hassle.
I was able to start on the modification of my hood. Need to cut out the support structure, form the lip and then weld on a new support structure. I also got a hood pin assembly and will be putting that in too.
Support structure off and planning on how I will make the new support structure.
Started the process of forming the front lip and made a template of the curvature I need to follow for the support structure. Will be making a support frame before I finish the top surface. Need to remove the exposed support frame under the new lip now.
Framework being laid out on the hood.
Got the HID ballast mount & headlight mounting done and some of the framework for the hood done. Also Plugged up the radio antenna hole, bondo next.
Alright the frame for the hood is mostly done, just need to make closeout panels and a few other things to finish it. Turning out pretty good, not perfect, but that's to be expected without a jig. This hood will need a lot of filler to cover over the shrinkage/forming experienced from the welding. If you plan on doing something like this....DON"T....buy yourself a hood and save yourself the work and frustration. But damn it turned out awesome!
Bobbo Koski also helped me for a short time putting in the side skirts this weekend.
First layer of etching primer, this will be sanded off to find the remaining low/high spots.
Hood needs one more piece welded on, the aesthetic welds grinded and bondo laid up on the A surface and it's done.
Fab work done on hood, need to apply lots of bondo now.
Alright in process of finishing body work and fitting up things. I had to trim the bumper in order to have the body lines lineup. Fitting up the sleek light housings such that the lens are flush with the bodywork and the gaping somewhat even is proving a royal pain. The lens I have aren't exactly correctly shaped and will be needed some shaving to look symetrical.
The hood has it's second coat of 3MPFBF glazing on and should be done sanding by this weekend. With some help I should be done with bodywork by either the end of this weekend or mid next week. And then Paint! LOL
Got the headlight housings and lens to lineup with the rest of the bodywork. I had to cut into the driver side headlight housing to even get it to drop flush with the bodywork. Somewhat my fault for not compensating for a non symmetrical chassis/bodywork layout, but still it shouldn't be this hard. I have one more tab to weld on the chassis for the headlights and then it's bodywork from then on until paint.
"I've never heard anyone complain about the RE sleek headlight fitment... Was it really that bad?? Or was it your custom brackets and projectors that caused the problems? " - Ungradedd
Well the saying goes "Ignorance is bliss" and this is a good example. Knowing what I know from my test engineering background the mounting structure wouldn't last that long or provide a stable footing for the lights. However, I did make it harder on myself by making my own setup, so my difficulty was both my doing and the poor design of the RE units mounting.
Note, what you don't see in this setup is the additional support I added to the outer most corner of the bezel. When at speed the cover would flex downward.I did this mod later in the build.
Well I think I'm done with bodywork. With the assistance of Bobby, I was able to get it done this weekend. The painter will be giving it a once over to see if I need to fix a few areas. If all is well, it's going to be painted this week.
The paint/body shop I was going to use said it still needs a lot of work. When I get back in town, I going to see what their talking about. Basically, my bodywork is still too wavy. I'm getting a second professional opinion to verify and if it's true it means I still have a lot of work to do. Complete skim coat and sand with a long block. Basically another 100 hours worth of work. Plus the painter seems gun shy, he basically does panel repair not full cars and doesn't have the time to do a project like that.
Alright, did some touch up on some of the ~wavey~ sections and got the car all taped up for the spray on "Mud". Also fixed one of my fender vents with the nifty plastic welder I got. Well worth the money buying that kit. Also, for those who have hood struts, you might want to grind off the excess material on the hood mounted pivot tab. It won't sit properly otherwise.
Harbor Freight has them: Plastic Welder & Welding Kit
Alright, Leo helped me put on the spray-on body filler, 3mm thick! After looking at the options I'm going to try and see if I can rent are booth and have Leo paint it. (Looking back on it I wish I had painted my own car)
Well finished sanding at 2am today. Very, very sore now. Primer and jams painted shortly.
I also got somemore goodies this weekend
Got my seats in Yesterday, it's going to be a tight fit, but it will work. Will have to modify the floor and make custom side mounts for them.
See picture for Snap-On plastic welder part number and the a view of the emblem hole I filled on the rear bumper. View of surface before I sanded.
I though the material I used would be compatible, but unfortunately I was wrong. Should have used a plastic based body filler instead.
Car ready for primer, hopefully Leo will have the primer on by the time I get to the shop today to wet sand it.
Primer wet sanded, didn't get done till 3am today. Bobby and Spyder help. If wasn't for them I would have never gotten it done that night.
Car is painted - Knowing what I know now I should have done the paint job myself and been patience with the process. The PPG paint materials I used required a 48 hour cure between coats. But instead did it all in one night. I should have done more research on the materials I used and asked more questions on what was required. As of now paint is bubbling in a lot of areas.
PPG Deltron 2000 - OEM: 32P Mazda DBC912270 SC "Tungsten Gray Metalic"
VOC: 6.0/% Lead: 0.00/MSDS: BDC1
DMD1690 - 1828.4
DX685 - 116.7
DMD1683 - 554.0
DMD1676 - 68.1
DMD1605 - 171.0
DMD1607 - 19.2
PRL98 - 155.7
DBX1689 - 583.5
DMD650 - 136.2
Ceramic coated my piping. LIM, UIM and added gold heat shielding to the LIM - At the time this stuff was expensive - $50 a sqft.
In process of engine build mock up and mod'n. As expected I have clearance issues with the new LIM, but nothing too extreme. Did some porting of the water pump housing to improve flow. I also simplified the rats nest, used my blue silicone hose for the lengths and routing needed before I cut up my expensive Viton hose I got. Waiting for the fuel injection kit I ordered to come in and Spider to bring me a few replacement items he borrowed awhile back....
Still waiting for the fuel injection kit to come (RX7Store), but Spider did bring me an alternator, be it a bit oxidized (thanks Mark). I took more pics of the clearance issues observed caused by the GZ LIM and the difference in location of where the throttle body is now. I did a little metal forming with a BFP so that the throttle body mounting tab lined up with the throttle body. The stock oil filler neck does not fit now, so I ordered an ReSpeed aluminum filler neck, decided to buy instead of fabricate. I also ordered one of there machined oil pedestals.
More progress today, engine build nearly complete, waiting for the fuel system I ordered to come in to verify everything fits before I put it into the engine bay. Got the ReSpeed oil filler neck and oil pedestal in today; nice pieces. I also cleaned the interior compartment and started laying up sound deadening.
Started the arduous task of putting the wire harnesses back in, thanks to Wadejg letting me use his FD as a template to work off of, I was able to make some progress without scratching my head too much. I now have to modify the main chassis harness and engine harness now, yeah. Relocating the battery cables, relay boxes and fuse boxes on the main body harness. I then need too removing redundant items on the engine harness.
I removed the unusable diagnostic plug & wiring and most of the fan relay/control setup. I retained some of the wiring that may potentially be used by the Spal fan controller I will be using instead of the stock setup.
Man do I have a lot of wiring to do!!
Slowly modifying the body harness (don't want to F up something), thank god Mazda provided detailed wiring diagrams on the net or I would be F'd. Anyways, removed and moved relays, modified the front relay box to house less relays, (Another plastic welder product). Just need to make a new mounting frame for the relay box where the fan relays used to be.
The Spal fan controller box will be mounted on the same frame. Picking it up Monday. Looks like the wiring I saved from the original setup will be used for this controller.
The quick disconnect plug will be using for the battery relay box I will be moving with the Battery. The plug will be placed where there is an unused orifice on the driver side firewall. Need to cut grooves for the prongs and it will slip right in.
Completed wiring the new front relay box and started integrating the new Spal fan controller. I'm also integrating a removable secondary relay for a potential second fan if it looks like I need it.
Today finish that up and start working on the battery relay box relocation and what not.
Got a little stuff done today, started setting up the external kill switch.
Wish I had just put the kill switch next to the battery. Would have saved a lot of weight.
Started putting body plug on and couldn't for life of me find or remember if the holes I covered with aluminum tape had plugs or not. Oh well. Started to also put the battery and fuse block in, need to get some special hardware to finish the battery install.
With the assistance of Bobbo and Spider things have started rolling at a faster pace.
Setup of the firewall plug is nearly complete, had to double up on a few wires, but no big D.
Spider started greasing the Delrin bushings, replace my worn-out steering end-links and putting new dust seals on the upper A-arm. Though I need to either buy or borrow the tool necessary to instal the new bust boot clips.
Bobbo, cut out my rear brake shields for preparation of my new BBK I'm getting. FD New Brake Options Re-reinstall my diff and put half shafts on.
Oh and I got the GZ Secondary Fuel rail (1 of 4 available for sale at GZ). After talking with Frank at GZ and a few other experienced tuners, I may run four 1600cc or four 1000cc injectors for secondaries running two injectors in series. That way I would utilize all the GZ injector ports and I wouldn't need to integrate a resistor. 550cc side feeds would be used on the primary rail for good low idle smoothness. Overkill on fuel, but it would actually turn out to be easier in the long run with my future single turbo setup. Stay tuned.
LOL, well the umbilical cored is done and I need to route to the passenger compartment now.
Got some parts recently, two Synapse Engineering BOVs, these just became available in limited quantities. Awesome units by the way. Mostly complete fuel system setup, got the secondary rail and fuel reg from GZ and the rest at Oil Filter Services (they have everything!). Just need to get injectors.
Mostly done with the wiring in the passenger compartments. Still need to tie in the battery cables and finish the main distribution box mounting.
Interior wiring complete. Attached is a pic of a before/after refurbish body panels.
Finally got all four corners of the suspension put together (had an issue with recieving a wrong half shaft assembly from MC) and put on the heat shield material for the exhaust. A bit overkill, but the passenger shouldn't have an issue of being slowly roasted.
Well I was hoping to have the motor in the engine bay by today, but in order of ease of setup and installation I need to wait for my injectors to come in and I need some fittings for the FPR. Then fabricate a mount for the FPR and the pressure vessel for the wastegate control. Easier to remove and install stuff with the motor out.
So mostly done with mod'n the engine harness, just need the injectors and injector clips. I went with 4 1000cc secondaries, two in series per side. And two new 550cc side feed units (main reason on holding off on installing the motor, major PITA to install those).
Finally got my 1000cc secondary injectors, need to make new mounting tabs for the rail to seat the injectors better into the LIM.
Expect my primaries to be clean and ready to go today and I will be getting my BBK!
Big Brake Kit in now, had to modify a few things, but that was to be expected. Finally got all my injectors, should have the motor in the engine bay later this week. After looking into it, I will be add an FJO low impedence fuel injector controller to the mix for proper fuel control.
Modified my Nardi steering wheel to accept the cruise control switch module and installed the wheel on the steering column.
Motor and tranny are in; secondary fuel rail fits, but is a bit tight with the Marren fuel dampener in place and the synapse bov may not work at the secondary boost control setup because of clearances. Will have to see when everything is in place. Rear brakes are also done, had to sand off material on the pads in order to fit. I had this same issue with my stock brakes and HP+ pads.....
And the dash is being repaired, the back lip of the center speaker pod was peeling up.
I modified the oil thermostat to include a section for an oil temp sensor; I did this to eliminate the giant cluster F$%K the Mocal temp sensor adapter would have caused. Just need to fab up a rubber isolated mount to the sway bar mount stiffening bar and oil lines can then be routed.
I also removed all the old pealing top coat on my 93 center console and re-textured it to look and kinda feel like a 94 unit.
Almost done with the oil cooler mount/sway bar stiffening bar. Had to make another fuel Y splitter, the original was to big of a diameter tubing, doh. Got my RE street diffuser, nice piece, but it got damaged during shipping, will fix cracks and coat with rhino liner, or something with similar properties.
Finished wiring in the FJO Peak and Hold Injector controller and cleaned up the engine harness while i was at it. I had some major routing issues with lines and wires, so while I was finishing wiring up the injector controller plugs and wires, I did rerouting of a coolant line and some vac lines. I'm so looking forward to get my single and getting rid of these control valves and lines.
The only thing I really don't like about this whole setup is the fuel lines to the FPR, I need to looks deeper into my options as far as fittings go...maybe AN fitting bangos, if there's such a thing.
Figured out the routing of the fuel lines to the FPR, had to think more 3D. Engine harness in, now need to finish main harness in the engine bay and most of my wiring except for lights should be done. Finally
Fuel System Done
Exhaust mostly in, need to mod the mid cat pipe to fit new Greddy Evo2 catback, weld in the wideband bung and weld in a check valve for the air pump tube. A while back I had Pineapple make some custom ultra high temp exhaust gaskets. In the past I kept blowing through the originally supplied units. As a test I modified one of the their header gaskets. No blow-by and it reduced dBs under the cabin as a side effect. Good stuff.
Also finished wiring in the battery, starter, alternator cables. And the body-engine harness.
FPR mount done, and close to being done with the mid cat. Finalize boost controller mounting and the remaining accessory wiring needs to be completed. Possibly may be able to start the motor this weekend.
Mid cat pipe done, just barely had enough leftover tubing after cutting to re-weld. My big cluster F of a relay box, fan controller, Boost solenoid and fan relay is next on the list.
As I feared the Secondary BOV interfers with the ABS unit, so I need to rotate that tubing assembly. Heat sink for the WB in, needed two crush washers to get the orientation. Mostly finished with engine bay wiring except for the headlights and EDFC(routing). Started install of EDFC stepper motors, thank god for work instructions. And I found out the FC dip stick is a nice upgrade to the short FD dip stick unit, gets to the finger ring should be a lot easier now.
I needed to modify the secondary turbo tubing I went ahead and put in one of my synapse BOVs. Also finished the engine bay wiring, utilized the AC firewall plug. Next will be finishing the Secondary intake tube recirc tubing, air pump air line routing, welding in water temp and water level bungs into the Rad, welding in the second BOV after the IC (for better throttle response when motor is under vacuum) and all the wiring to the dash.
Had a little unpleasant surprise the other day; the primary turbo accessory fitting came loose. So I made a plug for it since I will be tapping into the tubing at the juncture where I will get a more accurate pressure differentiation between the primary and secondary turbo transition. The secondary BOV and tubing is in, man talk about a tight fit. I almost needed five year old hands just to tighten the small set screws for the Synapse BOV.
Water temp and level sensors are on the Rad now and I need to decide where I will locate the primary BOV and special air filter for it. Where ever it is placed I need to tap into the air filter for the air pump. Minimizing tubing length may be the determining factor.
Holy sharp edges batman, nearly slit my wrists getting the fuel tank surge tank cover in place. Nice piece, hyperion did a awsome job designing and making these things.
Primary BOV is in, decided to have seperate air filters for the air pump and BOV. More maintence items to deal with, but less hose and clutter in the engine bay.
Started making a custom boost gage, EDFC and datalogit stereo din assembly. I was going to do it where the a/c controls were, but decided against it due to potential serviceability issues. This setup works nice, but it pretty much voids all of these items warranty, which I think had already expired anyways so whatever, lol.
Added a wide band calibration button to the BOV-EDFC-Datalogit assembly and did some wiring. Dash will go in today, finish most of the wiring and start modifying the gauge cluster.
Dash in, dash units in, gauge cluster is next, then fluids and a crank over.
Started modifying the gauge cluster, should be interesting to see how this turns out.
Finished the dash, had to eliminate the plugs for the SPA gauges and solder the wires directly, I did mil spec connectors though, so it's good. I used plastic rod, spacers and nuts to attach the gauges to the dash, required a lot of trimming original gauge structure in order to fit, but the finished product turn out awesome.
Well, put fluids in, cranked it over for oil pressure and found that I have a crack at one of the fittings on one of my mocal oil coolers. Need to fix that and find out why my fuel pump isn't turning on, will need to trace that issue too.
Well checked the wiring for the fuel pump and everything looks good, may be a supporting accessory that causing the pump to not kick in initially when starting. Will figure it out when I can get back to starting the motor. Since I'm dead in the water because of the oil cooler, I worked on other things like getting my rear diffuser fitted. Will need some more work at the corners and getting rid of the aero drag pocket in the right rear tire well.
Well, put fluids in, cranked it over for oil pressure and found that I have a crack at one of the fittings on one of my mocal oil coolers. Need to fix that and find out why my fuel pump isn't turning on, will need to trace that issue too.
Well checked the wiring for the fuel pump and everything looks good, may be a supporting accessory that causing the pump to not kick in initially when starting. Will figure it out when I can get back to starting the motor. Since I'm dead in the water because of the oil cooler, I worked on other things like getting my rear diffuser fitted. Will need some more work at the corners and getting rid of the aero drag pocket in the right rear tire well.
Well not much progress yesterday, didn't have the necessary materials to braze the oil fitting back on, notice the DO NOT EXCEED 30Nm tag, yeah, I wish I noticed that sooner, doh. Will have to go to a rad shop to aluminum braze the fitting back on.
So I read up on Chuck Westbrook's tuning guide, good read if you ever plan on tuning your own car.
Got a Setrab unit, a lot nicer oil cooler.
I put motorcycle turn signals in the oil cooler duct on the plastic fenders; this will show a little light through the vent, which should look pretty cool. Spyder and I hashed that one out.
And I made a pretty big mistake somewhere in my wiring, will have to take the harness out and do a check, I have a feeling its two simple wires that Iâ€™ve crossed that goes the ecu that causing all my problems. Stay tuned to starting this bitch.
I made the accessory mount bracket last night for the BOV control valve, Spal fan controller and my modified relay box. Off to paint it goes to get a nice high gloss black finish.
After looking at the wiring harness, it looks like the wiring was correct for the engine control, but I was getting excess current draw from the added accessories and was popping a few fuses along the way. I did have other wiring issues though and after reading Chuck Westbrook tuning guide I relocated a few things per his recommendations. So I rerouted some wires, fixed a few leads and relocated the secondary injector controller for better access. Hope this will be it. Oh, and I didnâ€™t have my leading coil plugged in, that explained why I wasnâ€™t getting spark, Doh!
Well with a jump and a little cajoling with the starter, she RUNS!!!
Welded in the new air temp sensor bung and in the process of checking everything before I do the final wiring harness wrap. The fan setup I have is pretty effective, may go one step further and put fans on the oil coolers. Enjoy to vid.
Baby got a new pair of shoes today.
With my frustration level at a all time high, I took a few days off this week to decompress.
I still have electrical issues, but these are due to removing a few to many items on the original wiring. I need to wire in some resistors where the emissions control valves used to be so my air pump will work and I need to add piggyback relays to the after market fan setup so signals can be sent to the ECU so it knows at what level the fans are running.
I also have pretty major fuel leaks. Looks as thought the primary pulsation dampener gave up the ghost and my custom primary rail fitting had a hair line crack at the weld. Probably caused by a moment from the fuel line to the pressure regulator. At least it happened during buildup and test and not after I had completed the car and see it go up in flames a few days later. Redid the fitting and Spyder's getting me a new fuel dampener.
The passenger rear fender well has a plastic liner in place now to get rid of the aero drag pocket the Re street diffuser would have caused. The liner came from an old driver side front fender liner.
Fixed some fuel leaks still have others.
Wiring diagram for the fan setup done, waiting for the Spal temp sensor to come in.
Finally fixed all the pinhole fuel leaks, had to abandon some fittings and weld on permanent AN fittings on both the primary and secondary fuel rails. The last pin hole leak was so small that I was getting ~1 mm bubbles every 2 seconds.
Anyways, got the fan setup done, with all the ecu integration and I got my 5.2 inch fan for the oil cooler. Need to figure out a clever mounting arrangement for it.
Still have an issue with the air pump not turning on, even with all emissions sensors connected. So I need to figure out what wrong or figure out an alternative control, maybe something connected to the 9 volt resistor for the fuel pump.
Wiring mostly done, buttoning up everything back together. Got my tires in and mounted, Bridgestone RE-01Rs, 265 Rear and 255 Front.
Relocated the fuel pump idle resistor to under the car and closer to fuse box and fuel pump. This sucker gets hot, therefore it stays outside.
Also found a mounting location for my XS engineering ignition amplifier. And I need to route the cluster F in the driver foot well.
Alright, dash is in (thanks to the help from Mitch), wiring complete, added an accessory outlet plug in the glove box (like to F-up plug above it?) and will be modifying the glove boxes strike to get rid of the annoying gap present on all 93's. Also started installing the Race Shop roll bar, unfortunately all the hardware that went with this kit is MIA, so I have to source equivalent replacements. Had a massive migraine yesterday; felt like I was going to puck every time I moved; no fun.
Glove box striker modified, Roll-bar installed (will need to remove to install the rest of the interior), it was bit of a jigsaw puzzle, but it's in, and started figuring out how the Sparcos will fit and be setup.
The Sparcos are super tight and the stock rails will not work. Will have to modify the door panels for sure and maybe the kick plate, seat belt buckle will be an interesting one too. The seats will have to be solid mounted, I will need to find an alternative seat belt bucket (which I have an idea were I'm going to get it from ) and my knee still hits the steering wheel when do a heel-toe operation , I'm thinking the Nardi wheel will need to be made into a D wheel later this year.
The pictures I've attached that shows the side blinkers in action really don't do it justice. It looks way better in person.
While I was finishing buttoning up the engine bay, I went ahead and added check valve bypass filters to the BOVs on the currently non-utilized pop-off fittings. Don't want contaminants to get in there.
Got my rear Tein EDFC stepper motors in, it's going to be a tight fit with the cage, but it will fit.
Front bumper is on and starting the process of painting the sleek headlight lens, once I get a contour I like finished.
Sanded and buffed the lens to improve the clarity and it worked. The lens did not exactly have smooth surfaces.
Started to install the hood pins, will have to drill the hood....may have to wait for cut and buff.
Got some stereo equipment yesterday; JL Audio A4300 four channel amp, 5.5 inch Focal speakers, Focal tweeters and a 10 inch MTX Thunder 5500 sub that was a gift from Bobby (Thanks Bobby). Will be making a custom sub box in the now unused spare tire wheel; same with the amp. May also have my water injection tank in the spare tire well as well, but will have to make sure everything is properly sealed.
First initial cute and buff done, stereo is being installed and doors being trimmed. Since I need to be out of the shop by the end of this month I went ahead a just added filters for the turbos for a temporary setup. Will be making an air box and the cooling system ducting. All those items will be made outta CF.
So close, just need fab up a primary turbo intake, finish the interior install, Vinyl the headlight cover, install the diffuser after painting it with chip guard and getting the PFC the work
Clear Bra is being put on today - Thanks Apex Restoration!
Finished the temporary air filter setup.
Well she's a runner, did my first 100 miles today on the stock ecu. One small issue that scared the shit out of me, but all is well now.
Differential bolt feel out....I didn't install it, but should have check the bolts anyways. Pic's and video's to come.
|Originally Posted by cartapex |
Thats exactly why I didn't log my 200 hours on your car! Of course something like that would happen to me IF it had been me. Shout out to Bobbo!!
200 hours! Since when did you work on my car! LOL Bobby, did however and I really appreciated his help, people make mistakes, that's life, so you can't condemn them for it. Though, if it wasn't for you letting me use your shop John, I would have never been able to do this project, so I am truly in your debt.
Here's a sample pic to wet you peoples palettes, need to get to a computer without corporate intranet limitations to put the remaining coast pic's in photobucket.
I can tell you one thing, this thing is eager to rev. It's a good thing I'm running the stock ecu, because it's imposing a good rpm limit leash on me. Really sucks in traffic though.
Okay here you go. Looks like my PowerFC is dead, so I am in need of a PFC soon. Just did the 500 mile oil change everything looks good.
Started building the Sub box today. This sub calls out for .75 ft^3, I'm at .69 ft^3, close enough. Have some carbon/kevlar that I will be using as a top layer for some show. Need to finish cutting the top panel and get more resin to finish the job.
Found a used PFC that I bought today, should be seeing it sometime next week. Can't wait to start tuning this thing.
Sub box mostly done, decided to save the CF/Kevlar for some ducting I will be doing and will just paint the sub box once Iâ€™m finished with the setup. Need to finish the wiring and make a mounting tab at the spare tire center hold down point. Also need to do some more sanding to get rid of the roughness of the glass work, but so far itâ€™s turning out nice.
Got the amp and sub all connected and damn it's nice. If I set it for a fair amount of bass I get a back massage while I'm driving, hehe. Anyways it turned out really nice, just need to finish the sub box. After thinking through it some more I will be using the carbon Kevlar, but will make two storage divisions out of the remaining spare tire well. One of them will be where the AI tank will reside.
Also Finally got my ARC titanium shift knob in, very nice.
Well, I found one of my boost leaks, but I think I still have more. One possible one is at of all places my SARD boost controller, may be auditorial delusion though .
Also started making the plug for my intercooler duct. Need to finish shaping and cover the plug surface with body filler. Once done I will use this to make my carbon intercooler duct.
Need to do the same for the oil coolers, air box and radiator block off plates.
I ultimately went single turbo and a different ducting setup. But in aluminum at this time.
The top of the EDFC stepper motor is roughly 50mm measured at the top most flat surface on the rear shock tower. As far as teins function, they're a pretty good bang for the buck coil-over. Hand they've held pretty good.
Photo from an earlier post, missed a symbol.
The car is being prepped for the 500R that will be coming soon. Need to modify and remove redundant vacuum line and control valves. Also received new primary injectors and will be installing soon. Efini's gave up the ghost after one to many 17psi pulls.
Received my Bosch 044 fuel pump, in tank filter and 10 micron external filter. The Bosch 044 pump is rated at 200 GPH (~757 LPH) at 72 psi, which will be more than adequate. Just need to get fittings and adapter to install.
Also received thermo temp strips and paint, plus roll bar padding.
Currently working on my oil catch tank that copies the stock vacuum chamber located in the front of the motor. Pretty ideal location due to it's proximity to all the accessories that it will be attached to, plus allows for a fair amount of volume. Need to finish locating and welding on the mounting tabs.
Catch tank done, just need more fittings.
Received the 500R turbo kit yesterday! Very nice kit, but unfortunately have some clearance issues. Will be addressing them with A-Spec soon.
Turbine is interfering with the GZ LIM. Couple of reason caused this, most of them are stemmed from the items I wanted on this kit (Synapse WG & .84 A/R Turbine) which are custom to the A-Spec 500R kit, plus my concerns relayed to Sean about my cooling system and turbo positioning (Right Hand drive headers used) and the GZ LIM. Basically it's mostly my fault. I talked the Sean and he's looking into setting up long runner headers with a R-hand drive header WG location. I will redo my cooling package as well. Which is just as well, because I will be needing a large IC anyways.
Currently working on the coolant package. Radiator mounts are in process and should be done tomorrow. I got a 4 in hump hose for the turbo inlet and some universal tubing bends for the new turbo ducting I will be making. I was hoping I recieved my new IC core as well, but it didn't. I went with a Bell intercoolers Bar & Plate 4.5" X 10.5" X 18" Core. It was the best compromise to available space, rated flowrate and cooling surface area.
I was able to modified my water pump/thermostat housing, changed the turbo water outlet from stock to a -6AN fitting, relocated my SPA water temp sensor to be more accurate (no other place to put it, so need heat wrap to protect it from the Turbo), changed the location of the water inlet tube to better line up with my now double pass Koyo Rad and trimmed the air pump mounting ear to give more clearance to the secondary fuel rail outlet line and the support rod I will be making for the turbo.
Working on power steering line routing, return line done, need to finish the feed line.
Power steering line done.
Headers and downpipe came in yesterday. Space is going to be in short supply for everything, the end tanks on the IC will be interesting items to make. Need to modify some fittings and such, but so far making progress.
Making progress, got some of my electrical issues addressed and slowly but surely getting all the supporting accessories for the turbo in place.
The coolant outlet line ultimately proved to be too short and resulted in a leak over time
Oil cooler fan in, did a little jerry-rig action at one of the mounting tabs. Next up, weld EGT probe bungs in the headers, remove the stock fuel lines to braze in some -6AN fitting, start laying out the air box, IC arrangement. At first I will be making the air box and ducting out of aluminum, then remake them in CF once I get to that point next month.
EGT bungs in place and re-ceramic coated. The spray can type, not as good as professionally done, but it will still work.
Added a plate the oil injection pump head shield and Bobby wrapped it in the gold stuff. I added this to protect it from the headers.
Fuel system upgrades done, it was a bitch, but it's in. The external fuel filter will be difficult to get to like the original, but I like how it protected from the elements. So I compromised.
Next will be adding the new Cat and modifying the midpipe arrangement to mate up well with the catback and downpipe. Then start thinking in earnest on the IC/Air box arrangement.
Mid-pipe finished and lastly need to extend the WG outlet tube. I'm going to add some shielding to the WG body to help it out on the temp side. Bobby added louvers to my wheel well plastics to improve air evacuation on the oil coolers. In person they look pretty good.
WG outlet done and in, the pipe is the lowest point of the chassis. Bobby also fab'd up a heat shield to protect the secondary injector and electrical wiring. IC and Airbox next.
Top end coming together. The catch tank in in all the lines routed including the line to the rear secondary turbo oil drain.
Well progress being made, the long task of making an aluminum Airbox and IC end tanks has arrived. Going to seals unlimited today to get some specialty seals.
As discussed by other 500R owner a sacrificial 9/16" wrench is needed in order to tighten one of the nuts.
Slowly but surely. Need to finish the end tanks, weld in the Second BOV flange and start cutting up the 4" tubing for the air box. Will be redoing the end tanks later to clean up the shape.
IC end tanks done, not totally happy with how they turned out so these will be classified as version 1.0. Will see how they perform and make new ones down the road if needed. Space limitations were a real limiting factor. Need to setup and finish the mounting arrangement of the IC and work on the air box setup.
This will give you a better idea on the recirc.
|Originally Posted by MWMburton |
so your tuning the bov to vent to atmosphere but taking that air and just putting it back to feed the turbo?
es, when the BOV discharges, it blows pressurized air at the compressor and if done right makes it spin faster for a short period. The byproduct is it improves turbo response between shifts.
Intake tube done, next up final IC mounting, IC ducting, temporary air box/rad block-off, fluids and start her up.
Well, Bobby and I went to the wee hours of 3am last night, but didn't quite get done. Bobby is still working on the temporary aluminum duct for the IC. So tonight finish that, check fluid's, finish block-offs and start tuning.
In my sleep deprived delirium I didn't install the boosted side of the boost source line to the correct location on my synapse wastegate. What happened next was a permanently close wastegate. Engine Go boom, Sand Panda
Well bad news, the wastegate did not open on my first pull and I over boosted to 34 psi and blew the apex seals on my rear rotor and destroyed the turbine on the 500R.
Well, after thinking over what happened, basically it was my fault. I misunderstood the setup recommendation from one of the Synapse Reps on connecting the EBC to the WG. Plus a weeks worth of sleep deprivation and being under the gun to get the car ready for the Saturday track event severely clouded my judgement that night. If I had not been so tired and had checked everything before I did a full throttle pull this would have never happened. This was a very expensive lesson, but it's fixable. I just need to muster up the money to get the turbo and engine fixed.....So close.
All three apex seals, the rear rotor and rotor housing are toast, hopefully the side plates are still good. Anyboy got a set of Iannetti one piece ceramic apex seals for a good price? Also a rotor and rear housing that's in good shape?
Here's a graph of the Boost & RPM trace when I blew up my motor. At least I know this turbo is going to kick ass response wise once I get it back on the road. 500 rpm transition from 0 bar to 1 bar, fifth gear.
Received the replacement Iannetti 2mm ceramic apex seals and a second set of new springs. Will be ordering the other parts towards the end of this months, once I recoup from my DGRR08 trip. I really can't afford it, but I need it.
Herblenny is hooking me up with his RX-8 while I'm there. Phil's the man!
Well, took the motor apart and got a few surprises, looks like I need to get the irons lapped and re-coated if possible. May need to get new ones, let's hope not. Everything else that blew up was expected. Not pretty.
Will be buying parts soon. Depending on if the irons are salvageable or not I may have the motor built by the end of May.
Okay, so Rob at Pineapple say's the side plates look like they can be resurfaced. And he sold me a good rotor and usable rotor housing for a good price. So now I will do some mods to the cooling passages and such, then off to resurfacing and recoating.
I just saved myself a lot of money, which I can now dump into performance mods to the motor, hehe
Well dropped off the side plates yesterday to get lapped. Hopefully the grooves aren't deep enough where they have to remove more than 0.004" of material.
I got a good rotor from Pineapple and ordered a Cermet B coated JHB rotor housing for the rear.
Jared Still ordered me a mazmart water pump and high flow thermostat and I will be making some coolant mods to the rear rotor housing to improve cooling performance even further. See attached pictures to get an idea what I'm doing.
And I'm in the process of ordering engine parts, will be ordering the last of it Tuesday when I got money in my bank account again, lol.
Well I got my side plates, JHB Cermet B coated rotor housing and seal kit in today.
The machinist had to take off 0.004" for both the front and rear plate, 0.005" and 0.003" for the rear and front respectively on the center plate. He also said that the center plate was 0.0035" out of parallel. Hopefully the TiN is still intact on all the faces, will have to test the micro surface hardness to confirm.
The Cermet B housing needs to be port matched and have my intended coolant mod performed on it.
I've decided to stick with my original front rotor housing mostly due to my finances and it's still in good shape. That is rather amazing considering it has a little over 100K miles on it and it has gone through four engine failures now. I just plan on cleaning it up a little with a little lapping.
Alright, finished exhaust porting, porting coolant passages and adding my custom external cooling system on my Cermet B rear rotor housing. I opened up the exhaust porting and coolant passages on my front rotor housing as well.
Will be cleaning and prepping parts for the motor buildup tomorrow.
Eccentric shaft oil galleys are tear dropped now.
I'm going to make some additional cooling mods now, after discussing with Barry Bordes on the forum about cooling in another thread. Already did some porting of the front housing cooling ports. The leading spark plug coolant port has rather restrictive architecture due to a dowel pin boss being in the way. Did some porting, but was limited in what I could do due to the tight space afforded. It should help though.
Also, for those who are wondering here's a visual comparison to a stock rotor bearing and competition one. Also the stationary gear bearing with some oil mods done by Pineapple.
Well had a snafu yesterday, the corner seals were a little too tight. So I made a series of dies to remove material to get the clearance needed. Also waiting for the RTV to dry on the bolts that will be used as dual purpose coolant passages.
I also got my rebuilt turbo back. Thank you A-Spec Tuning. Did some porting and polishing on the compressor. The porting kit I got from Baxter's rocks, it just makes a mess.
The motor is finally in. Had a few hang ups, but they're squared away.
Alright, I got my gaskets in and I broke down and made a water inlet fitting. I took Barry Bordes advise and lapped the mounting face of the turbine as well. Tomorrow I will be going to oil filter supply and see if I can get a oil inlet fitting. Also, oil catch tank version 2.0 is made, just need to relocate the breather filter tomorrow and it will be done.
Well oil filter supply wasn't open, so maybe Monday for the oil inlet fitting.
Anyways, IC end tanks version 2.0 made. Just need to grind, port AND POLISH before welding them on to the IC. The oil catch tank is done.
Started adding fluids. I used the good shyte.
IC end tanks were ported and polished(internally), welded on IC core and found I needed to tweak a few things . TB elbow next.
Anybody want to ride shoot gun a mileage run to Medford Friday/Saturday? I may have access to an eddy current dyno Sunday to tune. So I need break in mileage.
Almost done with the TB elbow, just need to make triangular plates to fill the holes. Then porting and polishing of the insides and wrapping it with gold foil.
In anticipation of putting a 3 bar GM MAP sensor in place I built myself a little calibration tool. The gauge is huge, but it was the only one that had the accuracy I wanted and not cost $100+, the one I really wanted was $860.
I got my oil inlet fitting, best $63 dollars I've spent in awhile.
So I drove it home last night, had a small localized fire inside the heat shielding of the Headers, no big D. Maybe debris or the fiberglass strands caught on fire. Drove it to work today with no issues.
Just have one small leak at one of the earl fittings on the steering system. Too tight of a bend for the steel braided line maybe....
Registration, 3 Bar MAP and a few other things today.
720+ break in miles achieved. Went on the Medford track twice, not issues, will need to make ducting for sure to aid cooling for autocross style events. Highest temps seen were 207 water and 225 oil.
Will be at IPD today after 3-4pm, will be at the dyno for sometime. Wish me luck.
Well, it was a productive dyno session, but ran out of time to finish the initial tuning. Most of the time was spent playing with the Synapse WG settings to get it to achieve the desired boost. We got it, but I still need to play around some more. Wasn't able to touch any of the Chuck Westbrook's base timing maps. Once I start playing with the timing I should get a lot more power, as it is the timing is super conservative, which isn't a bad thing. Was able to achieve 373whp and 268 ft-lbs torgue at 15 psi. Had a few hiccups while on the dyno; I melted one of the straps and melted the paint off the bumper. Fortunately Haithem caught the strap before we did another run, which would have been really bad. And the melted bumper was from the exhaust tube that was put on. The bumper and the exhaust tube melted. Will fix the bumper later, right now I have some heat shielding on to prevent further damage. I will post video later.
And it wasn't IPD, it was another shop IPD contracts work out to, that has a Mustang Dyno. I will get the full details on these guys later. Haithem is going to Cali this week so the next dyno session will be Monday/Tuesday of next week. This current tune should be good for Packwood this weekend.
Well, finding a few little things that need fixing. The big one is one of the -10AN oil fittings on the drive oil cooler is leaking. Will need to replace that. I was able to get an air filter on the TB BOV and fixed a few little issue with vacuum lines. I have now offically killed two EGT probes with less than a thousand miles on them.
Found my oil leak, my Mocal oil cooler sprung a leak at the fitting. These things are rather fragile, that's two oil coolers now that started leaking at the attachment fitting. Anyways, got them fixed and also made the seat brackets. Tonight is going to be a late one for tomorrows AutoX.
Well first AutoX went without a hitch. Temps never got hotter than 199F oil and 193F water. No oil leaks!
Now prep for the Mazda GP Time Attack.
Was working on the driver side Sparco seat mount. I was trying to integrate the stock rails, but the seat height was too high, which defeated the main purpose of getting the seat. So I am now in process of making a sold mount setup.
Plus I gotta find my break in power to my EDFC unit.....
And tonight I will be going on the dyno again.
SO I was able to finish the Sparco seat mount and assembly at 11:30 am Friday. 4 hours before the start of the Mazda GP Time Attack practice. All in all it turned out perfect as far as seating position and what not.
I won my class overall!
Got a "brand new" motor from Jason via Jesse's moolla. Thanks Jesse, your alright.
We seperated it and have started working on building up this motor. Few changes will be done to improve the mods I done in the last motor. Should be good.
Oh, my engine bay is on page 57 of the Jan. 09 Super Street along with all the other sweet cars that were at Seven Stock this year.
Some funky build up in the coolant passages from storage, but other than that this motor is brand effin new.
Made a press die today to press out stockers and in comp bearings.
Should be putting the motor back in the car tomorrow.
Also been working on a few things.
Gen 3 oil catch tank and a custom power steering tank. The PST filler neck is in the way of everything so a custom tank is in order. And doing a GB on the oil catch tanks.
Also did some baffling and trap doors for the oil pan. As well as adding a spacer the oil pickup to utilize for of the 7 quarts of oil in the oil pan.
Okay, well slowly getting everything back together. Currently working on a few side projects and starting on the beginning plans of a custom from splitter/diffuser.
I was lucky enough to have a professional automotive modeler work in the same building as I do. He's worked for the likes of Lotus, Jaguar, and few race teams back in the UK doing modeling for custom bodywork on racecars. Him and his son will be doing a clay model of the splitter I envision and will be making molds off of it. See attached photos for visual reference of the direction I'm going. IT requires some imagination.
REALLY REALLY WANT THIS BUMPER
Some more mockup photos
Alright, the modeler has the template and has already done some work on the top portion of the splitter and it looks good even in rough form. I'll take some photos when a finalized form is done.
Currently working on a catch tank GB, but beyond that also working on my custom power steering tank, front tow hook and Wide Foot sway bar mount reinforcement crossbar.
Power steering tank done, just need to sand blast it and ceramic clear coat it. Also working on my rear tow hook attached to my trailer hitch, lol.
Alright finally started back on working on the FD. Got the oil cooler cores in Saturday. 11" X 10" X 2.25", basically 85% of the surface area of the radiator. Will be making custom end tanks and adaptor block similar to the Mazdaspeed/Trust units. It's going to be a tight fit, but once these babies are in I should never want for more cooling for some time.
Also got the cross brace and front sway bar assembly together and I ordered 12kg springs for when I add aero to the equation. Will be putting the 12kgs in the front and moving the 10kgs to the rear.
Just finished the power steering tank, will be repainting the UIM and re-ceramic coating the headers.
UIM Painted - Candy Winefire, looks sick. And painted the catch tank and my header is Ceramic coated.
Alright, working on the oil cooler concept design, now I need to make the individual pieces. Hope to be done with the main assembly by tomorrow evening. It's going to be a tight fit.
One oil cooler mostly done. Need to weld in the mounting taps, ducting tabs and fan taps. Changed up the design to give it a smaller foot print and minimize excessively sized oil galleys. Beyond having to deal with the silver braze on the core and changing my mind in the middle of making the adapter block it was pretty straight forward. Need to make the passenger side now.
Moar Mock Up Photos, raised the oil cooler so it will clear the diffuser I will eventually be making.
Well, ran into a snag with one of the oil cooler's. Was chasing a leak that wouldn't go away so I made another unit. This one doesn't leak.
Anyways should be starting this biatch up tonight.
Support tab for the sleek light lens cover. These suckers move at high speed, hence I added this little feature
Photo of pressure tester if your wondering how I tested the cores.
It runs! Got a small pin hole leak on the pump housing where I welded in different adapter, but runs! Sound mean with larger ports.
Not quite done, fixed the pin hole leak, it's amazing how cast aluminum finds way to spoil all your fun.
The car should be on the road today.
I want to first say the power feels like a lot more than the last setup. But on the dyno at Forged which I really appreciate that they were willing to let me rent their dyno after hours (4hours). Their dyno said I only make 340 rwhp and 265 ft-lbs at 15 psi. The torque band is broad though, over 200 fts from 3500 rpm all the way to redline.
Finishing up the last minute details. Will be picking up my tow rig this evening and having Fred (formerly Race Dezigns) finish the vinyl work on the car this evening. Just have to do the dash unit and get the tires rotated.
I just purchased a new wideband and sure enough I'm pig rich everywhere. ~10.9 afrs at 6 psi and up.
Alright registered for the 18th PCA track day at Oregon Raceway Park. Will be taking onboard video
Did a video interview and car shot with Chris at Drivingsports.com on Skyline RD this last Sunday. Apparently they are in process of kicking off a Mazda specific webazine and my car will be the first featured car. Once I get a call that it's up I will post a link.
Well, I sprung a few leaks this last weekend. The Mazmart pump seal is going away and is dribbling coolant. Already in the process of getting a new one. Also was leaking at the turbo coolant outlet line. It was just too short to maintain a seal so I made a longer loop, just need to shorten it a little. Also it was leaking at the filler cap of all places, so I replaced it.
I also finally got my 12Kg springs that was on back order from Tein. Put them on the front, as well as put my .120 front bar in, man what a difference should have done this awhile ago. I moved the 10kg springs to the back, but the rear wants to step out sooner, may revert back to the 8 Kg springs. I also put on my new rear swaybar end links finally.
Also need to replace my leaking oil injector lines with some custom SS braided units I will be making.
Removed the 99 spec bumper and will be fitting up and installing the GTC bumper this week.
Sprung a leak on the driver side oil cooler, no visible signs of damage so will have to pressure test it to see where the leak is. Kinda of unusual, anyways I will see if it's repairable. In the mean time I line looped the system so I'm running with only one gigantic oil cooler.
Also, just recently installed the fast reacting Triumph AIT sensor, will see if they're is any noticeable change in the tune with the more accurate air temp readings. This will help great with sudden changes in air temps when I eventually put an AI system in the car.
This same week I will be removing the sound deadening off my R1 chassis to get it prepped for the new front clip. By the end of next week I should have a rolling chassis.
The clay modeler has completed one side of my front diffuser and is currently work on a mirror copy this month. If all goes to plan I should have my custom front splitter/diffuser done by mid August. Then the rear diffuser and the adapter piece that will allow my front splitter to be used on a 99 spec/stock front bumper.
Also bought a JDM tranny from Japan2LA, this unit has the 0.806 fifth gear ratio. Now I need the 4.3 or 4.44(FE) rear diff gear and I will be set.
First Gear: 3.483
Second Gear: 2.015
Third Gear: 1.391
Fourth Gear: 1.000
Fifth Gear: 0.806
Alright started mocking up the GTC bumper and everything doesn't quite fit. Will need to do some tweaking before sanding and paint. This week is going to suck....
Jeese and I finished stripping both the front clip and most of the chassis Wednesday night. Spoke with Phil the chassis repair guy and we will be most like putting the chassis on the rack next Wednesday. Come the end of this month I should have a rolling chassis. Peace.
Oh, the GTC bumper is going to take a lot of work to be at the level of fit and finish I want, yeah.
I will do a full inspection next week to see if a line to the WG has a leak.
I wish I was running with AI, I had put a deposit for the new HFS-6 unit, but haven't gotten it yet.
As far as the knock going ballistic before the boost spike? Everything else looks to be in order on the data log.
Well on a side note I finally fixed that leaking oil cooler. There was a hairline crack in the weld mid way up the side passage.
Barry Bordes pointed it out and I noticed it too, it may have been an injector dropping on me(will have to get them flow checked), but it looks more like a fuel pump pressure drop. The power was smooth up to that point and the base map is fat enough in that region. I've been driving this fuel map for a month without issue. Seems rather odd for two major items to go haywire.
Was working on the front bumper, found a few more holes in the bumper and had to add a few layers to the upper edge to compensate for all the material I've removed. Currently at a stoping point on the bumper until I have made the front splitter/diffuser. So close.
Also still waiting for my new FD chassis to be repaired...
Anyways, here's some pic's.
Alright, plaster molds are being made off of the clay models, so in a few weeks will be making fiberglass molds and start working on making the diffuser/splitter. Already have Jared on-board and asked Memphisraines if he wanted in on the build. Should have finished parts middle of November if all goes as planned.
Picked up the chassis and it looks legit. Now I just need to put in a cage, stitch weld and strategically gusset the F out of the chassis. Yeah!
Currently taking care of some started and unfinished projects. Dan and I just finished welding in the custom front shock towers on Dan's cage. Now he has the option to go to 6.5 and 8.5 degrees of caster instead of the stock 4.5 degrees. Will be finishing it this weekend once I get tubing for Dan's car, my FD and a E36 BMW six point.
I have four points bend up and tacked in place, currently working on the rear shock tower plates and the door bars. Within the next two weeks I hope to be done with the cage and stitch welding the chassis.
Still have the Tungsten car, it's just sitting in my garage waiting for me the have the funds to buy a new Odyssey battery and do a few things to it. Will be putting an AEM EMS unit into it towards the end of the month assuming the motor is broken in.
This chassis I'm working on will be my race car, and it will be tungsten metallic silver as well to make it more confusing. Doing the build on a tight budget. Would love to paint it Roso Corsa, but I don't have the extra funds for it. The dash bar is off the front clip that was put on the chassis, it was sitting out in the elements for sometime. Will be sand blasting it and painting it black once I'm done modifying it to fit the rest of the cage.
Due to the RTA rules change where the required minimum ride height is 3.5" I won't be making a rear diffuser. The ride height negates the usability of a diffuser. Still doing the front splitter though.
I would be cool to see at a few track days.
So while doing the engine tear down I found where my omp oil leak was coming from. Good thing I was premixing, even though I poped the motor anyway.
Here's the fix, custom steel braid lines and fittings.
Making progress, made a support plate for the seat, used some cool specialty bolts so my back doesn't feel anything. Also finish welding up the back end, just need to add gussets. Then the door bars and under chassis cross bracing.
Just got back from LA, did a AEM Series 2 EMS debrief and initial tuning setup seminar. This will be the EMS to have once it becomes available, I'm pushing to get an early unit late summer. Lots of really cool and usable features.
Rethinking my game plan with the race car. May put it on hold while I save up to buy a house. I would be stupid not to buy one right now with housing prices. Ugh.....
Also, thinking of ditching my plans to run street class in RTA and just build it to ITE and Mod RTA spec's once I start on it again. Which means I'm going to change the cage a little to be legal in SCCA competition. I was going to do it eventually.
GTC bumper painted and on the car. Just need to cut and buff it, let the clear out gas and then 3M clear bra it.
Will be starting on the diffuser section of the front splitter I designed, tomorrow. The plaster molds look good. Will be putting a gel coat on them and then make molds off them. Should be interesting how it turns out once done. jkstill will be the beta tester once one unit is made.
AEM install sooooooon
Front diffuser molds seperated, they turned out nice. Just need to do some clean up, sanding and polishing of the gel coat and the molds will be ready to make some parts. Will be getting flat stock in a few days to start working on the splitter laminates. Will be doing a thee piece laminate so the top and bottom surface will be smooth and once bonded together should be super stiff, even when made out of fiber glass.
Prototype splitter/diffuser part made, turned out pretty good. The part turned out really light and really stiff.
Making some changes, ordered a different resin that not as viscous and also ordered some stretchable vacuum bagging material. Also got a killer deal on some 3K twill weave carbon fiber. The plan is to test the front splitter on the 8th of May at ORP PCA track day.
Alright! Got the new resin and stretchalon 800 vacuum bagging material today so I will be making the other prototype diffuser part tonight. And planning on making the splitter this weekend.
Alright! Second part turned out really good except for the tight corners. Looks like I will have to create a epoxy or gel coat layer to get a smooth surface. Used a lighter weight fiber glass as the first layers to get a better surface without the air bubbles like the first one, it worked, but still need to tweak the process.
Anyways did a mock up of the diffuser pieces on the car, looks good. May have went to wide considering the sway bar is directly aft of the diffuser, but will do some flow studies to see how it interacts. Will be making fences for it to help keep attached airflow.
Will start on making the splitter piece Monday.
Getting the car prepped for the ORP track day on the 15th. Looks like I can drop the oil coolers, originally set them up high to clear the diffuser piece, but it looks like I went a little overkill. Will fix than down the road.
First part of the proto splitter lay up is tonight.
Also having SRC Fabrication laser cut some wing mounts plates for me. Untitled Document
Also here are some wing mock-up photos. Photos show you the spacing in reference to the edge of hatch where the mounts will be.
Made some more modifications to the alumacore splitter to clear the sway bar mounts and shorten it to be at the center-line of the front axles. Overall it looks good. Also in the process of making the aluminum frame mounting. I will be making chassis brackets that will be using the OEM tow hook bolt points.
Wing mount closed end nut inserts are in place and epoxied to prevent spinage. Did a mockup of the wing to the new mounts. Need to trim and weld in a base pad on the upper aluminum plates. So far so good.
Doing the second part of the front splitter lay up tonight. Wish me luck on getting a good part out of it.
Here are some photos of the alumacore with the surface prep for laminating and a shot of the new wing end plate profile.
Well, added this to the memory banks of what not to do. Didn't quit get desired finish on the top surface of the splitter. Should have either laid a board on top or made another laminate piece. Needless to say it won't win any appearance contest, but it will get the job done. I did get the desired surface on the bottom though, which is the more important surface.
Also here are the wing end plates. I might be able to salvage the CF finish and clear coat them. They are super light and stiff at least.
Rear wing mount done and it turned out pretty good. Just need to put clear on new end plates and mount the other rear hatch. I will paint it later.
-1 Degree to 12 Degrees at the center. The angle at the outer elements are 5 degrees more attack angle than the center.
I need to test t see at what angle I get stall, there really isn't that much aero info on the RE-A wing. I'm going to start of with 6 degrees and go from there at this Saturday's ORP track day.
Well, was able to get the front splitter mounted, but still need to do a few things to it. I will also have to eventually redo the chassis mounting plates, in my hast and sleep deprivation I screwed up the design and placement of the mounting plates while welding it. Had to drill/grind holes offset to the originals.
Holy Sh@t B@lls this thing corners now! ORP counter clockwise is a roller coaster of a track, just about everyone I knew was getting car sick after driving for about 20-25 minutes.
In order to get the car balanced front/rear I ended up going to 10 degrees wing angle to match the down force generated by the front splitter.
I need to create a surge tank now since I was getting fuel surge at 3/5 of a tank. My neck is sore. The combination of G's and off camber corners caused my properly filled diff to overflow, lol.
Also need to Roll the fenders or put on my over fenders.
Video of ORP. Didn't get a lot, sorry.
Fast frward to 6:35 on video â€“
Also did an Adrenaline Racing track day this last Thursday with my FD and had a great time. 7 different passengers, a record for me and a lot of track time, 25 gallons of fuel worth. The tires, brakes and some SPA gauge sensors are spent. The car was running great except for an over boost issue (1.3-1.4 bar) in the morning caused by my aggressive settings. Dropped the boost down to 0.96 bar and went conservative on the cycle duty setting to keep it safe for the day. Also made sure I kept the fuel tank topped off before every session.
Got my AEM stuff today.
And, did a little machine work at FD3S Engineering. Two throttle bodies were modified, one with 54mm secondaries blades and stock primary. The other one with 54mm secondaries and 50mm primary throttle blades. Need to find out what material the OEMs use to seal the back side of the blades. Once I get around to it I will do a A to B to C comparison to see which provides the best overall performance and retain drive-ability.
Also started on my 95 rear suspension/diff frame conversion.
Finished JKstill's FD aero, looks good and is fast.
Got a few other projects done.
Decided to trade in the rolling chassis from cash for another semi running FD.
Another track day, good times
Original Thread Here: http://www.rx7club.com/build-threads-292/afgmoto1978-build-thread-1013041/