Shogun, from stock to +700BHP extreme
Compliments of shogun! @ http://zilvia.net
Many photos have gone lost due to a host crash.
Here are some...
Not the latest but they'll give you an idea
I fill up with new pictures in future new posts.
My name is Tim, aka `Shogun´
Big Thanks to:
Svensk Turboservice Dick & Svein Turbo, wastegate
First Class Polishing UK Jay Polishing
ATS & Across Japan Yoshihiro Fukugaki LSD-Deftforce LSD
Bosch Rennsport Tyskland Peter Wommer Injectors & cables
Carbonize Carl ICE-system
Creatix Per Tuning
Erebuni Sam & Dana Styling
PBZ Arash Carbon stuff
Racecooling Johnny FMIC & Radiator
Zef Engineering Thomas Driftworks CS2 Coilovers, safety equipment
Kloma wheels Tyres and graphix Anders Federal 595RS-R Tyres
BadAssParts Martin Chargespeed Wide Body fenders
`Shogun´ & +700BHP!
DEFTFORCE is da ****!
It all started when I had my drivers licence. I built my own dragster, a Cuda -70 with 1136 hp. Hemi Cuda -70
It was an awsome adventure to be in control of this extreme machine, knowing I built it myself and have success at the races. Eights on the strip, lovely time it was but rediculously expensive.
Today I´m building an extreme street racer. Handling and brutal power in a nice wraping.
Even if I am building most of it myself, it is costing a lot, but it is worth every single Krona, Euro and Dollar. Luckily there are many good suppliers around the world who produce quality parts at decent prices. I have made many good contacts during the years.
I bought the car in 1998, it was in a very good condition and more important, the engine was flawless and without errors and only a few Miles on it, just to pay.
The first mod I did was 17" rims, lowering springs and adjustable Koni dampers.
After that some styling. Got in contact with Erebuni and together we found a package and named it Shogun. They still use my car on their site.
The engine needed an upgrade. Started with exhaust system, chip tuning, open air filter and increased boost. The result was rather meager, some lousy 200 hp. Nothing to chear about. I got an intercooler, a larger turbo and a manifold. Increased fuel pressure and a modified chip. Together with some other changes, the engine produced some 300 hp... Still not satisfied.
I sold most of it.
After a heavy research I started collecting high performance parts to make it 100%. Forged pistons, forged rods, new aftermarket control unit, injectors, turbo, manifold, large IC, water cooler, clutch, oil cooler, fuelpressure regulator, blow off valve, etc etc... Bosch Motorsports added high ohm 960cc injectors from their development department. It´s nice to have contacts.
Lots of things is needed to assemble a 600hp engine.
How will the gearbox manage all those horses and the hughe torque?
The original tranny dies between 300 and 400hp...
I have to make my own.
Said and done. I bought a Z32 tranny that without swetting manage more than 1000hp.
The bellhousing was cut off and the S13 flange part was TIG welded on. A special made prop shaft and a tranny bracket was made. Thats it! OK...a short shift on top of it.
Potent engine, durable tranny...but...gripp?
How to solve this?
Bought 18" Japaneese light weight drifting rims and really good rubber.
One of the better LSD:s on the market was bought from ATS in Japan and found its place in the rear axle.
Coilovers, adjustable link/rods made of chrome molly, ball joints, swaybars...there is a long list over all modified chassie parts and upgrades.
I mounted the brakes from a Skyline, both front and rear. The brake discs got some work and the wheel hubs was exchanged to 5-bolt version to prevent the wheels from escaping during acceleration.
The interior was modified with Sparco seats, 3" 6-point belts and some more, making it able to handle and keep full control over engina data and the car handling.
It is not an easy thing to create a monster kind of car but with time and effort it is possible, but not for free. For more information, have a look on my site. There are lots of pictures, both on parts and projects.
I look forward, summer to come
Laid my hands on a new damper.
Took a while but finally ...
Some garage pictures and test assembly of the turbo.
Yesterday the parcel from Australia arrived. Very nice quality on the damper.
It has been rather unclear what ARP-studs to use for the main bearing caps on the ca18det. I made an extensive investigation and can now confirm that the kit 165-5402 is a 100% fit.
Some minor things I did to improve the handling
New kid in town
Rollcage to be installed as soon as it is delivered from Apex Performance.
(FIA EDC/BDC/Pro Drift/Time Attack).
Got a Seibon hood and I must say it is the best CF quality I have seen so far.
Judge for yourself.
Some pictures from the garage
and some past summer ones
Upgrading the brakes.
Front 350z track edition discs and Z32 calipers.
Rear Z32 discs and calipers.
This is how I rebuilt a Z32 gearbox to fit my car (200sx S13 with ca18det).
The good thing about it is that you can reuse the nice clutch you already invested in for your S13. I have a twin disc OS Giken clutch, bought for my S13 gearbox. Both gearboxes have the same dimensions on the ingoing splined shaft, release bearing, sleave etc. This makes it an absolute fit. The gear ratio is slightly higher. My car had before a top speed of 282km/h at 7800rpm. With the ratio of the Z32 gearbox and new tyres it will make aprox. 305km/h. Hope you like it.
Clutch: Same as S13 (clutch, bearing, release sleave, starter motor, flywheel)
Weight: A bit heavier because of internal dimensions
Length: A bit shorter (reuse the yoke from the Z32 and the rear part from theS13 and make a new, longer prop shaft)
Gear ratio: A bit higher (~5%)
Shift stick: Reuse the one from Z32 or buy a new short shift
Welding in cast aluminium: You need a TIG or go to a welding shop (sand blast the weld area to make it clean and easier to weld)
Z32 original gearbox from a Twin Turbo 1994
Disassemble the clutch housing (Z32)
Parts to remove to disassemble the clutch housing. Not shown are the screws on the outside (remove), attaching the cluth housing to the gearbox.
Remove all screws around the cover and carefully lift it off
Remove both snap rings and the stopper ring
Be careful not to lose any important washers or shims
Important! First remove the screw, spring and ball before removing the complete interlock assembly, the ball might fall into the gearbox.
Before you disassemble the clutch housing of the S13 gearbox, you have to make a centering device. Use a plexi glass plate (10mm) and drill a 16mm hole in the centre, put the plate over the shaft (snug fit) and carefully drill 4 small holes exactly in the centre of the holes where the gearbox is attached to the motor. Remove the plate and carefully drill the holes just as big to get the screws in
Remove the clutch housing from the ca18det S13 gearbox. It is more or less just to remove the screws on the outside of the clutch housing, remove the cover and one snap ring.
Remove the snap ring under the cover
Comparision between the both gearboxes. One is useless over 350-400Bhp, the other last well over 1000Bhp and more.
Use an angle cutting machine and cut off the flange from the S13 gearbox ca. 50mm, take it to a machine shop and have it grinded down to 45mm. Important to get it absolutely flat and equal all around.
Use an angle cutting machine and cut off the flange from the Z32 gearbox ca. 40mm, throw away the flange and take the rest of the clutch housing to a machine shop and have it grinded down to 355mm. Important to get it absolutely flat and equal all around.
Both parts after grinding, cleaning and reattaching the clutch housing on the Z32 gearbox
Put the S13 flange snug to the Z32 clutch housing and attach the centering plate with four screws
Top view. Important to align and rotate them like on the picture
If you do not own a TIG-welding machine, you go to the machine shop again and have it carefully welded together, both from the outside and the inside
Reuse the shift stick bracket from the Z32 gearbox. You have to cut out some small triangles from it, bend it to a Z-shape to fit the S13 under body and then weld the cut outs together. (borrowed picture)
The new short shift
A small change of shift stick position compared to the original (borrowed picture)
A plate to cover the hole at the shift stick (borrowed picture)
A bracket to hold the gearbox in place (borrowed picture)
Aligning the gearbox with the rear axle. Put a steel tube in the gearbox, aim it towards the centre of the rear axle flange and find the final position of the gearbox bracket. (borrowed picture)
Side view (borrowed picture)
Front view (borrowed picture)
The prop shaft. Mount the Z32 yoke in the gearbox and the original flange on the rear axle. Measure the centre distance between the loops in the yoke and in the rear flange. Use this measure and go to your local prop shaft supplier and have him to make your new prop shaft. The shaft rotate at about 10.000rpm at max speed so it has to be dimensioned for the forces and also balanced.
Some stuff from Hidden in the Attic
Ooops! What has happened here? Something came off
Some pictures from today
Device to correct the speedometer. Needed because of the different speed signals and gear ratio in the Z32 gearbox. It also handle changed wheel/tyre sizes etc. The sensor signal to the speedometer is handled to show the correct speed on the speedo. It also show the max speed from the latest run by pressing a button.
A toy I built some years ago. Had 1136BHP to play with and made mid eights on the quarter
No new pictures atm matey but a short status repport:
* I have adjusted and fastened the front WB fenders in their final position.
* The hood has been adjusted aswell and has now hood dampers (the support rod is no longer in use).
* The Hood latch has been glass blasted and repainted and mounted
* Some of the gauges has been replaced (- AEM wideband lambda, + Autometer dito). Autometer Pyrometer (EGT 2000F).
I did not need to use solid bushings in the sub frame (and I am happy about that because of the nasty work burning out the old ones). The original shitty silicone filled ones are not damaged so I am satisfied with the function the spacers give. They reduce the play by 99% and still give some little vibration damping (as if some added/reduced noise should be of any importance hahaha!)
Oh! ... almost fotgott. I have moved the beast to a new nice garage without cardboard walls
Today I picked up the new turbo from .
Without doubt they are skilled experts in the world of turbos. Dick has made an excellent job. There is nothing about this SX700S that is standard. Top Class Dick! 1000 cheers!
Tomei MHG for big power output.
The listing show approximate CR vs thickness and bore.
Some funny christmas candles of grade 8.
Slightly modified plans. Will go for dual Tial with a bit of my own touch
Completed the gauge installation with a couple of useful meters from Autometer.
Don't feed the animal
Some additional chassis parts to lift handling one more step
The digital climate control DCC with power on.
Some Christmas gifts
This is how to change the wheel studs to longer ones (not my car on some pictures)
Remove the wheels
Remove the bolts on the backside of the brake caliper (socket 17) and hang it up with a bit of wire.
Remove the center cover on the wheel hub with a flat screwdriver.
Remove the lock pin (replace with a new one)
Use a pair of flat pliers, squeeze the legs together and press out the pin
Remove the centre nut (socket 32). The wheel hub will start rotating, use a long bar or equal between the floor and the wheel studs to hold the wheel hub in place.
When the nut is removed, take out the washer placed behind it and pull off the wheel hub
Press the old studs out. If you dont have a wise or equal, you can hammer them out.
Please try to avoid using to much force when smacking them out, every blow will make small dimples inside the bearings. If you use a small sledge hammer One firm blow is better than multiple smaller ones. Support from behind is good to save the bearings.
Place the new longer studs in correct position (splines). Carefully knock them in a bit. Important that the splines are correctly alligned. Use a larger socket and a wheel nut and tighten till the stud is firmly seated towards the back of the hub..
Clean all surfaces and put new grease on the bearing surfaces. If you plan to use larger brake discs in the future, it is a good idea to remove the splash guardbehinf the brake disc before you remount the disc.
Remount the washer, nut and locking pin. Assemble brake disc and spacer.
Remount the brake caliper
Mount the wheels and enjoy the wider stance
This is the result on my car (no spacers mounted yet and Camber not adjusted). This is also before the wider fenders are mounted.
I use a 5-stud wheel hub with pin studs. Make life much easier
A late New Years gift turned up aswell
A small but important upgrade
I do not want to mess around with lots of hard to reach screws and nuts so I looked around to find a good solution.
Thanks to Creatix I managed to lay my hands on a bunch of really good Stainless Steel V-band clamps and flanges. They make life so much easier eliminating the hassle with aligning bolted flanges. Easy to mount and dismantle.
I will use them on the exhaust system, the down pipe, the front pipe, the two wastegates and on the turbon
Today all lower arms got the same satin black touch like the SPL ends. Very classy. I like!
The Kouki lights are on. Super fit. I also changed the pins in the new boot lock assembly so I only have to use one and same key to all locks.
Lots of action in the garage.
The head is improved one step further.
To eliminate fuel surge problems and fuel capacity at the track and during heavy acceleration, a surge tank is installed together with two Bosch 044 fuelpumps.
Included with the new Kouki lights, I got a new and longer boot lock-assembly. I do not want to have more than one key so I made a nice and easy modification.
Here is how to do it. I made a small "how to"
What will happen when the fuel pump in the tank will suck air instead of fuel?
This could happen when you are on the track or during heavy acceleration. The fuel is forced towards the side of the tank, away from the pump. Especially when the tank is not full. The air will be pumped into the fuel line, onwards to the fuel rail and via the injectors into the engine.
Most of the time this will cause a noticeable decrease of power and it may also damage your engine.
To stop air entering the fuel system, a surge tank / swirl pot is a very good solution.
I have tested a couple of designs and found two really well working versions. Which one to use is mainly a question of available space. Some install it in the boot, others in the engine bay. I will put mine in the engine bay.
If it is installed in the boot, use Teflon hoses. They are more gas tight compared with ordinary steel braided hoses and will prevent the smell of fuel inside the car. They are also resistant against E85.
To connect the hoses to the surge tank / swirl pot, use AN-connections. Usual sizes like AN-6, AN-8 or AN-10.
The installation is fairly simple. Remember the high pressure pump need rather much power and should be connected over a fused relay. It is recommended to use the ordinary pump power feed as relay control signal.
Engine bay installation
Bosch inline pump (0580254044)
Got a Haltech solenoid to control the boost very accurately at each load point.
This is how it will be installed but with the exception that I will use two external Tial wastegate valves.
This story has quite recently been published in a Swedish tuning magazine. The styling will of course look very much different with the Wide Body, new Front Bumper and more
Another short story published in 2010. Winner Round 5.
A complete set of new Carbotech XP8
Some of todays work:
New bushes on the steering rack.
SPL and Tein outer and inner tie rods and Driftworks lower arms.
Front bumper has been on the car for 10 years and I have just changed it. Now I have a Works9.
and I'll keep the wife. She is excellent
They are made by Driftworks in the UK. Very well made. I just resprayed them since I don't fancy orange arms
Here is a copy/paste from Driftworks homepage:
The Driftworks Suspension Line. As used on our 2006 D1GB Championship winning 200sx.
Driftworks adjustable lower control arms with pillowball ends allow you to accurately set the track (the width of your wheelbase) of your drift/track car. They eliminate every last bit of unwanted play that a normal bushed lower arm would give you, by using high quality spherical bearings to replace the rubber/poly bush.
This means the suspension does exactly what you set it up to do, without having to account for the dark art how 'bush play' effects alignment.
On the front arms the use of the spherical bearing means that whatever you set your castor to (tension rod length), there is no binding from the inner bush being forced out of it's natural angle, when the tension rod pulls the front lower arm forward..
The adjustable steering bump stops allow you to set maximum steering angle for your car. Please be aware that the adjustable bump stop is a generic item, that may require slight modification to get maximum steering angle on your individual car, as Nissan use different knuckles with different cars. Bump stops are adjustable as the maximum steering angle position is set on an individual basis, as it changes with castor angle (tension rod length).
Easy to fit. Just measure the length of your standard arm, and use the tunbuckle adjusting system, to set these arms to the desired track width. These arms must be used with our adjustable tension rods. Please ensure you retain enough thread in the adjuster on the tension rod, as the wider you make the track, the longer your tension rod will need to be to acheive the same castor angle.
Our front and rear lower arms are an important part of the puzzle in any fully sorted suspension setup on a RWD Nissan. They are manufactured to the same extremely high standards as the rest of our suspension range, using high load Japanese bearings, and maximum penetration welding.
Do not confuse these products with cheap imitations that use dangerous bearings and low strength welding.
Mine resprayed satin black
Bought some 30pcs of Mikalor Supra Clamps in different sizes.
If I can afford it (yes I can) I am possibly investing in a good set or tyres.
Picked up my new Tial waste gate valves from Svensk Turboservice yesterday. They came straight from the Tial assembly line in the USA.
Worth waiting for! They are the new, upprated version with integrated water cooling.
How small are they? I compared them with the earlier bolt on 38mm Tial WG and I can tell you. They are very small! Good! Since I do a twin installation and there isn't much space to talk about.
This revamp features water cooling ports, three bottom air ports and two top air ports. Water ports are not required for operation, but come in handy at road racing, the top hat is close to the turbine housing/down pipe or when the engine bay doesn't get a lot of airflow. Air and Water ports are clearly marked so there is no confusion.
(mine are silver/aluminum coloured).
Sometimes the difference between big and small is very obvious
The new Driftworks adjustable suspension arm kit. Soon to be Satin Black
The MVS v2 has five air ports and two water ports.
(three bottom air ports and two top air ports).
My new turbo doesn't have any water cooling. There is as you know a water cooling system on the engine, used for the original T25-turbo and I will reuse that for the Tial MVS (with new piping). You are right, there is water in and out on the MVS.
Connection of the air ports will basically be like Tial suggest and I will use a Haltech electronic 3-way boost valve together with my new DTAfast ECU.
I have a bunch of different springs to install in the MVS and I will use a basic spring load of 1-1,7 Bar (14-25 Psi) and with the Boost valve the Max Boost will be set to about 2,5-2,8 Bar (36-41 Psi).
This together with all other tunings will result in some +700HP.
All new control arms are now painted satin black and the front suspension is mounted and finished
Today I made a major investment.
I bought a spigot bushing for a massive $8
Part no. is 32202-7f401
For those not familiar with the term, the spigot bushing is a bronze sleeve bearing in the tail end of the crankshaft which carries the nose of the gearbox input shaft to provide proper alignment of the clutch disk.
Soak it in oil for a day or two before you install it. The oil penetrate the tiny holes in the bushing.
The old one is removed with a rod just a tad smaller than the inner diameter of the bushing and some ordinary grease. Fill up the hole with grease, put the rod inside the opening and tap it with a hammer a few times.
The rod will press against the grease and the grease will force the bushing out. May take some harder taps if the bushing is a bit grumpy.
Today I installed all rear lower arms and suspension arms I got from Driftworks.
Lots of pins to crimp on the cables for the DTA-ECU. Only remain some heat-shrink tubing and they are all done. The photos show the sensor cables. The Power cables I finished earlier.
The entire DTA-package turned out to be quite small but oh so powerful
Good! There is room enough
Some tiny bits for the fuelsystem Teflon Stainless Braided Fuel Hose is nice.
The improved engine bay
The Real Deal
Two times Bosch 0580 254 044
Enough fuel/E85 for at least 1000BHP
I would say thay are the same except fot the intake side. The block is the same and so is the ex mani.
Euro vs JDM
Some carbon stuff to make driving less heavy...or is it just a bling thing?
Very efficient long weekend.
It hurt to cut the brand new front bumper, but it had to be done to maximize the cooling. This picture show the opening just before I started working with the epoxy and fibre.
Thanks mates. I will post more whenever something new is available.
A picture to give you a hint about the size.
Don't know what happened, sort of got me some extra rims
Thanks to Kloma wheels Tyres and graphix Anders I got new rubber on the rims
Semi-slick Federal 595RS-R 235/40/18 front and 265/35/18 rear.
Bought a large box of oil.
(8 l engine oil) Motul 300V Competition 15W-50 Racing lubricant for racing cars
(5 l gearbox oil) Motul Gear 300 75W-90 Racing gearbox lubricant 100% Synthetic – Ester based
(6 l LSD oil) Fuchs Titan Race Gear 90 LS High Performance Limited Slip Diff Oil (formerly known as Silkolene BOA 90 LS)
(1.5 l brake and clutch fluid) Motul RBF 660 Factory Line race brake fluid
The original watercooled oilcooler, mounted on the engine block under the oilfilter, is sometimes creating a problem and has to be removed. It could be a problem with the function, available space etc. In my case the reason is a heavily tuned engine with high boost pressure. This create a very high local temperature rise. Let us call it a local thermal water explosion. This local temperature rise create a high local pressure in the cooling system and this could make the original oilcooler crack and cause a water/oil leak.
There are some ways to solve this problem, this is how I chose to do it:
Original oilcooler is hidden under the intake manifold and behind the alternator.
Original oilcooler. It is mounted on the block with 4 bolts.
Here it has been dismounted.
A close up to show how it looks behind the oilcooler. It is important to remove all trace of old gaskets and paint. The mating surface must be smooth and clean since this is the surface where the oilfilter/sandwich plate is sealing snug and tight.
In the centre you can spot the original stud. This is to be dismantled (twist it out like a screw).
Original stud dismounted.
In Nissan FAST software, part 15213P is found. This part is only used on engines without an original oilcooler mounted on the engine block.
It is named "Stud, oil filter" and Nissans part number according to Nissan is 15213-W040A. I have ordered one and will test it to be 100% sure it is the correct part.
The valve I will mount in the filter holder.
Stud, 15213-W040A, mounted in the block (the four bolts and the gasket shall be removed).
Now you can select if you would like to use only a filter, an external oilcooler, a filter relocation kit or a combination with all of them.
I use them all.
Oilcooler thermo plate.
Mounting an oilcooler and a thermo plate.
Filter relocation kit.
Yesterday I was informed the new R-tyres are on their way and they should be delivered to me today. The flush fit wheel air valves have also been shipped. Soon time to get it all assembled and balanced. Exciting
I have that kind of valve on my other wheels too and they bring a nice touch to it.
It turned out very well with the flush valves on the new wheels I use for the R-tyres. Pictures to be posted after next round in the garage. I will have to remember to always keep the air fill adatper in the car from now on.
When the tyres were mounted on to the rims, they had to pump them up to more than 4 Bar of pressure. It sounded like a big cannon in the tyre shop. My poor ears...I wasn't prepared at all... at least not when the first tyre went on.
Mounted some parts. It will be ok but as shown, there is lots to adjust regarding wheel alignment and I will also adjustthe track both front and rear. At the rear, there is plenty of Camber but still a slight gap between the tyre and the fender. At the front, there is also some space for adjustments. I will decide how much I want to slam the car when the coilovers have settled. The steering angle has improved with the spacers mounted on the inner tie rods.
Remains hinged baffles, cleaning and painting
I am about to decide between a couple of lid designs. A simple version like the S14 or a more thought over dito.
I have now decided to make it similar to the pictures. The hinged trap doors will be adapted to the extended side wings. The function as in the youtube video.
A check valve is installed in the cylinder block of the ca18det. This valve is a part of the oil lubrication system and is easily neglected when the motor is refurbished.
The Check valve is located in the block between the 3rd and 4th cylinder. You have to remove the cylinder head to access the valve. In the picture you spot a triangular/oval shaped cutout in the head gasket, slightly upwards to the left of no 4 head stud a small hole is located. This is the exit hole of the check valve. The purpose of the check valve is to maintain pressurised oil in the hydraulic valve lifter channels.
When cleaning my engine block I flushed it wit hot pressurised water and dried it with compressed air and an air gun. Extra care was taken to flush the oil channels from both directions. From oil pump towards head and vice versa. When flushing from the oil pump area, a thin powerful water spray came out of the hole in the check valve, In the other direction the valve blocked the water. A good sign of a fully operational check valve.
The pictures show:
1. Engine block with check valve installed.
2. Check valve removed
3. Check valve (broken).
4. If it is not possible to flush the oil channels direction from the oil pump towards the check valve, you have to remove the valve. The valve is hard to remove without destroying it. Nissan no longer store these check valves (part no 11036-D4200). If needed you have to ask a mechanical work shop to make one for you. You will need to bring the old valve and the engine block for them to measure and make it right.